THE MONASTERY AT CHANG-AN-SA
In the latter part of the afternoon of the fourth day, our travellers,
weary and worn with the long journey, came in sight of Chang-an-sa, the
Temple of Eternal Rest, one of the oldest monasteries of Korea, where
hundreds of monks devoted their lives to the service of Buddha.
The temple buildings, with deep curved roofs, are in a glorious
situation on a small level lot of grassy land crowded between the high
walls of a rocky ravine.
Yung Pak was delighted at his first sight of the great temple and the
surrounding buildings. Through the swaying branches of the forest-trees
he caught brief glimpses of the granite walls and turrets reddening in
the sunset glow. The deepening gloom of the gorge was lighted by the
slant beams of the setting sun, and on the water in the stream below
flecks of foam sparkled and danced in the light of the dying day.
At first conversation was out of the question in the presence of such a
majestic display of nature's wonders combined with the handiwork of man.
Coming to a gate of red stone, Yung Pak asked the meaning of the carved
arrow in the arch overhead.
"That arrow," replied his father, "signifies that the temples to which
this gate is the outer entrance are under the patronage of the king.
Wherever you see that sign, you may know that the king has a special
interest, and his messengers will be treated with respect and
hospitality. Consequently we may expect to be well cared for during our
visit to this place."
Passing through the gate, our friends found themselves at once in the
midst of the Chang-an-sa monastery buildings. In addition to the great
chief temple, there were many smaller places of worship, with bell and
tablet houses. There were also cells and sleeping-rooms for the monks,
servants' quarters, stables, a huge kitchen, and an immense dining-room,
together with a large guest-hall and a nunnery. In addition there were
several buildings devoted to the care of the aged, the infirm, and the
sick. All these places, during his stay, Yung Pak visited in company
with Wang Ken and guided by one of the monks.
Besides the buildings already mentioned there were several houses that
had been erected by the king on purpose for the use of his officials,
and it was to one of these that Ki Pak and his son and Wang Ken were led
by several of the priests of the monastery. In the meantime, the
servants and the ponies were cared for in other places assigned for the
purpose.
Yung Pak was not sorry to arrive at his journey's end, even though he
had enjoyed himself every moment of the time since he left Seoul. A four
days' ride on the back of a pony will make the most enthusiastic
traveller tired, and Yung Pak was glad to get to bed in the comfortable
room provided just as soon as he had eaten his supper. His night's sleep
was a sound one, though at midnight, and again at four o'clock in the
morning, he was awakened by the ringing of bells and gongs that called
the monks to the worship of Buddha.
In the morning Yung Pak awoke greatly refreshed, and, after a bountiful
breakfast, he started out with Wang Ken, guided by a monk, to see the
wonders of Chang-an-sa monastery.
One of the first things he noticed was the large number of boys about
the place. He learned from the guide that these lads were all orphans
who were being cared for by the priests, and who, later in life, would
themselves become priests of Buddha. They were all bright and active,
and were kept busily employed as waiters and errand-runners when they
were not at work on their studies. Like most boys, however, they managed
to get a generous share of time for play.
It would be impossible to tell in detail about all the strange things
Yung Pak saw at this monastery. The chief temple was an enormous
structure of stone and tile and carved wood, all decorated in gorgeous
combinations of red, green, gold, and white.
Within this temple was one room called the "chamber of imagery." Inside
its darkened walls a single monk chanted his monotonous prayer before
an altar. During the chant he also occupied himself by striking a small
bell with a deer-horn. Bells played a great part in the worship at
Chang-an-sa, and all the prayers were emphasized by the clanging of
bells great or small.
Along the shadowy walls of this room could be seen the weapons, as well
as the eyes and teeth, the legs and arms, of gods and demons otherwise
invisible. These had a ghostly effect on Yung Pak, and made him cling
closely to the side of his tutor.
Above the altar before which the priest knelt was an immense carving in
imitation of an uprooted tree. Among the roots thus exposed were placed
fifty-three idols in all kinds of positions. Beneath the carving were
represented three fierce-looking dragons, on whose faces were signs of
the most awful torment and suffering.
"About this altar-piece," said Yung Pak's guide, "there is a legend you
might like to hear."
"Oh, yes," was the reply, "tell us the story."
"Many years ago," began the guide, "fifty-three Buddhist priests came
from India to Korea for the purpose of converting the people to their
belief. When they reached this place they were very tired, and sat down
by a spring beneath the wide-spreading branches of a tree. They had not
been there long when three dragons appeared and attacked the priests.
During the contest the dragons called up a great wind which uprooted the
tree. In return, each of the priests placed an image of Buddha on a
tree-root, turning it into an altar. Thus they were able to overcome the
dragons, who were forced into the spring. On top of them great stones
were piled, and afterward the monastery of Chang-an-sa was built upon
the site of the battle between the priests and the dragons."
Afterward Yung Pak visited the great kitchens, the dining-rooms, the
stables, the private rooms of the monks, and every place which might be
of interest to an inquisitive boy of his age.
During the time he remained at Chang-an-sa he made several excursions
into the surrounding country, but always returning to the monastery at
night.
Meanwhile Ki Pak had transacted the business for which he came to this
region, and at the end of ten days was ready to return to Seoul.
Of this journey it is not necessary to tell. No mishap marred the
pleasure of the trip, and all returned safe and sound to their home in
the capital city of Korea. Yung Pak had enjoyed the journey very, very
much, yet he was not sorry once more to be among the familiar scenes and
surroundings of home.