JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS
For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly
acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is just a
little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or overripe
fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. This
fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. Such
fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin and
are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits.
The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of
pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies,
though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other
marmalades.
Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be made
into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and lemons to
them while cooking.
So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or
not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed over jelly
that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn the simple
test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is
a very easy matter.
Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol--90 to 95 per cent.--and add
to it one tablespoonful of _cooked_ juice that has been cooled. The
effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like
mass. If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one
mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I
said _cooked_ juice. It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not
found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the
cooked juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice.
There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw
grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin.
This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also
gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice. If
three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot
this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as
juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than
three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar. If the
pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the
jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream
or some form of cooking.
By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly
texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better.
After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing,
stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof
kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent
burning--about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit.
The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth. With less
juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or
follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. Use the cores, skins and
seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly.
Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle,
stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When the simmering
point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher.
When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready
to strain.
The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large
mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite
corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or
felt bag for straining the juice.
What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When this
Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty
minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many
housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do this,
empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle,
cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring
slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice that drips out
is called Extraction Two.
The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out whether
there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin is present,
you can repeat the operation and get Extraction Three.
Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you can
get as many as five extractions.
You may say, "Why bother with extractions--why not squeeze the juice
and be done with it?" You will get clearer, better-flavored and more
glasses of jelly if you will make the extractions than if you squeeze
the jelly bag.
I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but usually
combine Extraction Two and Three.
The next step in jelly making is vitally important--that is, how much
sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is where many
housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the same proportion
of sugar to all juices.
To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of sugar
must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough or
unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must be
used.
Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in pectin
that they require equal amounts of sugar and juice--that is, to every
cup of extracted currant and grape juice we add one cup of sugar.
Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup of
sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water in
the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of
juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples.
It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large amount
of water is added than from the juicy fruits.
I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the fruit
juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the boiling,
in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should the sugar be
hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the sugar in the
middle of the jelly-making process than at the beginning or the end.
Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, so as to lose as little
sugar as possible.
If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and thus
the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it in a
granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, and stir
occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it.
After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as quickly
as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent boiling. A
steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will produce good
results.
Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from eight
to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or five
minutes.
Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty
minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen minutes.
The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking
thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. It
is the one sure, reliable test.
The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a
very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it
immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees.
If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour the
boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held horizontally.
If the sirup is done two drops will break simultaneously from the side
of the spoon.
Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw a path
through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and the juice
does not run together, the jellying point has been reached.
When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from the
fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized
glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to
prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full.
Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at one
time. If new at the game make only four, because there is danger of
the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be removed.
When the jellies are well set cover them with _hot_, not merely
melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs that may
fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the clean tin or
aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool place after proper
labeling.
STEPS IN JELLY MAKING
1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and
contains a large amount of pectin.
2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth.
3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash
berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added if
necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small pieces; add
half as much water as fruit.
4. Pour into dampened bag.
5. Drain through closely woven bag.
6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of sugar
to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of pectin, the
fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different fruits. To
make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold cooked fruit
juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake gently. Allow to stand
one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a lump add
three-fourths as much sugar as juice in making jelly. If the
precipitate--pectin--is not held together in a lump or is less than
three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, add less sugar in
proportion to juice. If less than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to
make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and
so forth.
7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook.
8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or midway
in the process.
9. Stir until sugar is dissolved.
10. Cook rapidly, but not hard.
11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a clean
spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from it. If
done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of spoon. Some
prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of spoon. Better still,
use thermometer.
12. Remove from fire and skim.
13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses.
14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a little
coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily.
15. Cover, label and store.
No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter into
consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the amount of
water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of sugar to juice;
the more sugar used, the less time needed.
JAMS AND BUTTERS
Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies.
1. Carefully wash berries and fruits.
2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not
convenient, use measuring cup.
3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces.
4. Add enough water to prevent sticking.
5. Stir to keep from burning.
6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken.
7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part fruit.
That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a pound of
sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup of sugar.
8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently.
9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. When a
little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is thick
enough.
10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or crystallized
ginger can be added if desired.
11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of the
top.
12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and store.
Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made much as
are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and grapefruit
marmalades.
Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and raisins
are often added to conserves.
Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least
three-fourths of the weight of the fruit.
If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or other wax
tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the cold-pack method
of canning. You may have containers with screw or bail tops which you
wish to use in this way. The following is one recipe showing how to
proceed.
Cherry Preserves. Place one gallon of water in a kettle and add ten
pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen minutes. Add
twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until product is boiling at
a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in shallow pans. Pack into
glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip if
using enameled tin cans. If using a hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize
twenty minutes; if using a water-seal outfit, a five-pound
steam-pressure outfit or a pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen
minutes. Remove jars. Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the
joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching and store. When
using pressure-cooker outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during
period of sterilization.
Fruit Juices. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and delicious drink
and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries and other small
fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a cloth sack, heated
for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs freely, and allowed to
drip.
Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the
sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of the
bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 degrees, or
until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the cooker, and keep
at this temperature one hour and a half to two hours; or heat to 200
degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the water,
and hold at this temperature for thirty minutes. The hot water comes
up to the neck of the bottle. Cork without removing the cotton. If
canned in jars close the jar partly, and seal tight after cooking.
Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a higher
temperature injures the flavor.
Strawberry Preserves. 1. Add thirty-five ounces of sugar to one-half
pint of water; bring to a boil and skim.
With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively
without floating and no sirup will be left over.
To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds of
washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it
registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical thermometer.
If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is very
heavy--about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum.
Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of the
hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as possible.
Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not fasten tightly.
Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if possible.
Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the boiling water
for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least twenty-five
minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the conclusion of the
operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap to make sure that
the seal is absolutely tight.
Recipe Number 2. The following method is preferred by some because
it leaves more of the natural color in the preserves:
To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add
twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour
juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook to
222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack and
sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for all
other berries.
When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the table,
they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick sirup
which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a cooling
summer drink.
Strawberries--Sun Preserves. Select firm ripe berries; hull and
rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a single layer; sprinkle
sugar over them. Pour over them a thick sirup made of one quart of
water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled until very thick.
Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them to
stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly glasses
and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin cans. Put
the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or seal if
using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time given below
for the particular type of outfit used:
MINUTES
Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial 20
Water seal, 214 degrees 15
Steam pressure 10
Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, and test
the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent bleaching.
When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on preserves,
remember to keep the valve open during the sterilizing.
SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING
Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a fine
flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter apples are
best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly in the spring,
add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple juice.
Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple.
Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious juices and
shrubs for summer beverages.
The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 minutes.
Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are rubbed
through a sieve.
Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good
combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and strawberries.
Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, pear and
pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin.
One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious jelly;
currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 to July
3.
Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days.
Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too much
sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are satisfactory.
If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than do
green-as-grass gooseberries.
Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to test
for pectin before completing the process, to save time and effort.
Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for conserves.
An underripe, acid plum is best.
Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly.
Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit
being used for preserving.
Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a rain, for
they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without
excessive boiling, to get the juice to "jell."
Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. It
will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an otherwise
expensive jam "go a long way."
Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized in
many ways.
Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges.
Lemon Marmalade. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are sliced, put in
kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 hours; then boil 2
hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour longer.
Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are
usually combined with grapefruit.
All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh and not
overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from
fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are
still green.
CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING
KIND OF FRUIT|CHARACTER OF| HOW TO | AMOUNT OF | AMOUNT OF
| FRUIT | PREPARE |WATER NEEDED| SUGAR NEEDED
| | |FOR COOKING | FOR JELLYING
-------------------------------------------------------------------
APPLES, SOUR | Excellent | Wash, |One-half as | ¾ cupful of
| for jelly |discard any | much water | sugar to 1
| making | unsound | as fruit | cupful of
| | portions, | | juice
| | cut into | |
| | small | |
| | pieces. | |
| | Include | |
| | | |
APRICOTS |Not suitable|Leave a few |For jam use | ¾ cupful of
| for jelly | stones in |just enough | sugar to 1
| making. |for flavor. | water to | cupful of
| Excellent | | keep from | apricots for
| for jam. | | burning | jam
| | | |
BLACKBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | ¾ cupful of
| for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1
| making | | quarts of | cupful of
| | | berries | juice
| | | |
BLUEBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of
| for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1
|making; make| | quarts of | cupful of
| a sweet | | berries | juice
| jelly | | |
| | | |
CRANBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |One-half as | ¾ cupful of
| for jelly | | much water | sugar to 1
| making | | as berries | cupful of
| | | | juice
| | | |
CHERRIES |Pectin must | Pit the |For jam, use| ¾ cupful of
|be added for|cherries for|just enough | sugar to 1
|jelly making| jam | water to | cupful of
| | | keep from | cherries for
| | | burning | jam
| | | |
CRAB APPLES | Excellent | Same as |One-half as | ¾ cupful of
| for jelly | apples | much water | sugar to 1
| making | | as apples | cupful of
| | | | juice
| | | |
CURRANTS, RED| Excellent | Do not |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of
| for jelly |remove stems| water to 5 | sugar to 1
| making | for jelly | quarts of | cupful of
| | | currants | juice
| | | |
CURRANTS, | Better for |Remove stems|Enough water| ¾ cupful of
BLACK | jam | |to keep from| sugar to 1
| | | sticking | cupful of
| | | | currants
| | | |
GRAPES, | Excellent |Wash, do not|1 cupful of | 1 cupful of
UNRIPE | for jelly | stem; use | water to 5 | sugar to 1
| making | stems | quarts of | cupful of
| | | grapes | juice
| | | |
GOOSEBERRIES | Excellent | "Head and |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of
| for jelly |tail," using| water to 5 | sugar to 1
| making | scissors | quarts of | cupful of
| | |gooseberries| juice
| | | |
PEACHES |Pectin must | Peaches, |Just enough | ¾ cupful of
|be added for| apples and | water to | sugar to 1
|jelly making|raisins make| keep from | cupful of
| |a delicious | burning | juice
| | conserve | |
| | | |
PINEAPPLES |Pectin must | Prepare as | For jams, | ¾ cupful of
|be added for| for table |enough water| sugar to 1
|jelly making| use |to keep from| cupful of
| | | burning | juice
| | | |
PLUMS, |Suitable for| Mash fruit | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of
GREENGAGE |jelly making| and remove | water for | sugar to 1
| |stems; cook |each peck of| cupful of
| |stones with | fruit | juice
| | fruit | |
| | | |
PLUMS, DAMSON|Suitable for| Wipe and | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of
|jelly making| pick over; | water for | sugar to 1
| | prick | every peck | cupful of
| | several | of plums | juice
| | times with | |
| | large pin | |
| | | |
QUINCES | Excellent |Cut out the |One-half as | ¾ cupful of
| for jelly |blossom end.| much water | sugar to 1
| making, if |Mash and cut| as quinces | cupful of
| not too |in quarters | | juice
|ripe. If so,| | |
| add crab | | |
| apple | | |
| | | |
RASPBERRIES | Excellent | Wash them |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of
| for jelly |thoroughly, | water to 5 | sugar to 1
| making | but do not | quarts of | cupful of
| | let them | berries | juice
| |soak in the | |
| | water | |
| | | |
RHUBARB |Pectin must |Wash and cut| For jam, | ¾ cupful of
|be added for| into small |half as much| sugar to 1
| jelly | pieces | water as | cupful of
| making. | | fruit. | juice
| Better for | | |
| jam. | | |
| | | |
STRAWBERRIES |Pectin must | Wash and | For jam, | ¾ cupful of
|be added for| remove |just enough | sugar to 1
| jelly | hulls. | water to | cupful of
| making. | | keep from | pulp.
| | | burning. |
CITRUS FRUITS| | | |
| | | |
ORANGES | Excellent | For orange | Cook in |Three-quarters
| for jelly | marmalade | water to | their weight
| making and | weigh | cover. | in sugar.
| marmalade | oranges | |
| |slice cross-| |
| | wise with | |
| |sharp knife | |
| | as thin as | |
| | possible; | |
| |remove seed.| |
| | | |
LEMONS | Excellent | For | | 8 pounds of
| for jelly |marmalade 9 | | sugar
| making and |oranges and | |
| to supply |6 lemons are| |
| pectin to | a good | |
|other fruits|combination | |
| | | |
GRAPEFRUIT | Best for | Grapefruit | |Three-quarters
| marmalades | is sliced | | their weight
| | very thin, | | in sugar.
| | seed | |
| | removed. | |
WILD FRUITS | | | |
| | | |
RASPBERRIES, | All | Prepare as |Just enough | 1 cupful of
BLACKBERRIES,| excellent | other | water to | sugar to 1
BARBERRIES, | for jelly | fruits. | keep from | cupful of
GRAPES, BEACH| making. | | burning. | juice.
PLUMS. | | | |
| | | |
-------------------------------------------------------------------