CHAPTER I

EVERY STEP IN CANNING

The Cold-Pack Method

by

GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B

Formerly Associate Professor of Home Economics,

Iowa State College

1920

PREFACE

It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, Cold-Pack

Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand one day at a

federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a few weeks there

would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty miles away. Immediately

I announced that I was going to the demonstrations. So leaving my

small daughter with my mother, I went to the Normal School at DeKalb,

Illinois, and heard and saw for the first time cold-pack canning.

It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded full of

interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I felt amply

repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, the first

story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in _The Country

Gentleman_ and I had the pleasure of writing it. So enthused was I

over this new, efficient and easy way to can not only fruits but hard

vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that I wanted to carry the

good news into the kitchen of other busy housewives and mothers.

My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, just

from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, much

against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement work, my

sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that for the first

time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over one phase of

cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that when she received

my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, "Mother, I am

enthused about this canning and want to can everything in sight this

summer," she hastily washed all available glass jars and tops and had

everything in readiness for young daughter's return. And we canned. We

were not content to can alone but invited all the neighbors in and

taught them how to can. Our community canned more things and more

unusual things, including the hard vegetables, that year than they had

ever attempted before.

Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there were

doubting Thomases, but it only took time and _results_ to convert even

the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a confession. It was

much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase of canning, to master

this new method than it was for me with my four years' training course

and my five years of teaching canning behind me. And this is the

reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," she knew no other method whereas

I had to "unlearn" all my previous methods.

The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from the old

hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you must forget

all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And right here is

where many women "fall down"--they are not willing to admit that they

know nothing about it and so do not get accurate information about it.

They are so afraid of appearing ignorant. This false feeling is the

greatest obstacle in woman's way.

I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will say,

"Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it for thirty

years." And when I show my surprise, they further enlighten me with,

"and my mother used it before me, too." With a little tactful

questioning I usually get these answers: "Of course, I do not hot dip

and cold dip. I never heard of that before. I pack the products into

the cold jars and for all vegetables I use a preserving powder because

there is no way on earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless

you put something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right.

Then I cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I

ask, "How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the

answer, "Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems

like such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned,

out-of-date methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and

much actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for

there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old rather

than try the new.

The present book is therefore designed for all interested in greater

efficiency in the home, including not only students of home economics

but all persons who have charge of homes and are interested in

learning new, efficient, time and labor saving methods.

In the preparation of this book I have received much help from Mr.

O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' and

Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. I also

wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped to make

this book possible by contributing information, advice and

encouragement.

GRACE VIALL GRAY.

October, 1919.

CONTENTS

I. GETTING READY TO CAN

II. SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES

III. HARD FRUITS

IV. VEGETABLES

V. SOUPS

VI. JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS

VII. MEAT

VIII. FISH

IX. EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN

X. INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION

XI. WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL

XI. I GETTING READY TO DRY

XIII. HOW TO DRY FRUITS

XIV. HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES

XV. EVERY STEP IN BRINING

XVI. CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT

XVII. PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS

XVIII. HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES

XIX. HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE

EVERY STEP IN CANNING

CHAPTER I

GETTING READY TO CAN

Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of canning,

preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California fruits by the

case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen cans, according

to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was cheaper and

decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, greens, soups

and meats than to take time and strength in the very hottest season of

the year to do our own canning.

But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us thrift. The

crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has sunk into our

minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods have been adopted by

the modern woman. Women who had never canned in days before the war

had to can during war days. Food was so scarce and so high in price

that to buy fancy or even plain canned products was a severe strain on

the average housewife's purse. The American woman, as was to be

expected, came quickly and eagerly to the front with the solution and

the slogan: "More gardens and more canning and preserving at home."

A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As I have

just said, women who had never canned before became vitally interested

in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, but jars upon

jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so great was their

delight in the finished products that again and again I heard them

say: "Never again shall we depend upon the grocery to supply us with

canned goods."

If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that their

grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just the same,

because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they would have

canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so apparent during the

summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a result of new canning

methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. The women of to-day were

forced into a new field and learned how satisfying and well worth

while the results were. It is safe to guarantee that every

home-canning recruit will become a home-canning veteran.

The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned how

simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear that

home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the immediate

necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own because of the

war, and it has come to stay because of its many merits.

There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all over

the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the "intermittent," the

"cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods.

DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS

The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was largely

used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in the

preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized jars, after

which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar is done after

the sterilization has been completed, there is always a possibility of

bacteria and spores entering the jar with the cooked food and the air.

Fruits can be handled successfully in this way, but this method cannot

be used for vegetables, greens and meats. It is a very laborious, hot

and hard way to can. Modern housewives are discarding it more and more

every year and are beginning to place their trust in the newer and far

more scientific methods of canning.

The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still

beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture into

the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all fruits

and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where they say

the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great objection to this

method of canning is that it requires three periods of sterilization

on three different days and three liftings of jars in and out of the

sterilizer.

What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning should not

be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The "cold-water" is often

used in connection with the canning of rhubarb, green gooseberries and

a comparatively few other sour berry fruits. If the "cold-water"

method is used we would suggest that the product be thoroughly washed,

placed in a strainer, scalding water poured over it, and the product

then packed at once, in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and

clean, cold water applied until the jars are filled. If these steps

are taken carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be

successful with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products

will have to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not

consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method.

THE COLD-PACK METHOD

The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is known as

the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight to prove

that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory process for

busy housewives to can everything that grows.

This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, and if I

should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am referring

to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are packed cold in

their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or containers. To the

fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables hot water and a little

salt are added. The sterilization is done in the glass jars or tin

containers after they are partly or entirely sealed, making it

practically impossible for bacteria or spores to enter after the

product has once been carefully sterilized or cooked. In following

this method vegetables should first be blanched in boiling water or

live steam, then quickly plunged into cold water and the skins

removed. The products are then packed in containers and sterilized

according to the instructions and recipes given later.

When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the product

for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled with food.

It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, processing, boiling

and cooking are all interchangeable terms and mean one and the same

thing.

By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food

products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be successfully

sterilized in a single period with but one handling of the product in

and out of the canner.

All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy pulp,

and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than in any

other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is eliminated and

all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause vegetables and meat to

spoil are destroyed.

EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL

For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you have in

the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many of us have

purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn out more at the

end of a day and have found it well worth while to invest a few

dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more efficient. But if you

are a beginner and do not care to put any money in an unknown venture

use the available things at hand, just to prove to yourself and others

that it can be done.

Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those which

are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and basements

and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good condition and

will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good rubber you can use

that jar.

If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor economy to

use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably responsible for more

spoiled canned goods than any other cause. Good tops and good rubbers

are requisites for good canning.

For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a

galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail--a new one, of

course. Either is excellent where the family is small and the canning

is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the cookstove while

others employ a large vat. If you should have to buy the wash boiler

or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover and be sure the pail

does not leak. Then all you have to do is to secure what we call a

false bottom, something that will keep the jars of fruit from touching

the direct bottom of the boiler or pail. This false bottom, remember,

is absolutely necessary, for without it the jars will break during the

boiling.

For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and cut it

to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or bucket.

If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a wooden

bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not available

put thin pieces of wood in the bottom--anything to keep the jars from

coming in direct contact with the bottom of the sterilizer.

If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use a

deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. This

rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars from

becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a tendency

for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be lost. Do not

use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a false bottom; they

are unsatisfactory because they do not allow proper circulation of

water.

Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by many

women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the market

and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned fingers.

Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies with you,

individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will hold all

your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them separately.

To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no matter what

kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper than the tallest

jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra inch or two so that

the water will not boil over.

Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you will

need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may be put

for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water--if you haven't

running water--for the "cold dip."

If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar

lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the canner.

If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as they contain

an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher for lifting the

jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, such as scales,

knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth or muslin for

blanching or scalding the product, and the kitchen clock play their

part in canning.

No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product is

cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food will

be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is desired to

add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may be done when

the product is packed in the jar.

A great many people have been led to believe through advertising

matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds for

the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep under the

commonly known methods of canning. The first argument against the use

of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It is possible to

sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on tree, vine, shrub or

in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period method of canning,

without the use of a compound. The second argument against it is that

many of the canning compounds are positively harmful to health. Some

of them contain as high as ninety-five per cent of boric acid.

Directors of county and state fairs should exclude from entry all

fruits and vegetables that have been preserved in any canning

compound. Perfect fruit can be produced without any chemical

preservative. The third argument is that they are expensive.

There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and garbage

pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath outfits. In

these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling water.

There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the

product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally

used for everyday cookery.

The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the aluminum

pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards the time

required to sterilize food.

Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and

manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the

hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or

hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing.

The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated but

more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker because it

can be used for everyday cooking in the home.

Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, as

they are used daily and not just during the canning season.

Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a

hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen minutes;

in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, twelve minutes;

in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; in

an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten pounds of steam, five

minutes.

It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath outfit; the

shortest and quickest method is with the pressure cooker that has a

pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife has different financial

problems, different hours of working and different ways of working.

Where quick work is desired and expense is no item the pressure cooker

is advisable; where money is scarce and time is no object the homemade

outfit answers. Each one must decide which outfit is best for her own

particular case. It matters not which outfit you have--they have all

been thoroughly tested and approved by experts. Each one does the

work.

This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart

kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart

measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar opener;

wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for blanching;

pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one tablespoon; one

teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring cup; jar lifter;

either a rack for several jars or individual jar holders; and a clock.

The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept busy

during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices for

outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the young

people of your family and give them something definite and worth while

to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must be kept

busy--if not usefully employed they are often inclined to mischief.

This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can be used in the

back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the front yard.

Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of heat

required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for canning

are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of 500 feet

above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot increase in

altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the time required

as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning of all kinds of

fruits, vegetables, greens and meats.