CAMBRIDGE 1828-1831.

After having spent two sessions in Edinburgh, my father perceived, or

he heard from my sisters, that I did not like the thought of being a

physician, so he proposed that I should become a clergyman. He was very

properly vehement against my turning into an idle sporting man, which

then seemed my probable destination. I asked for some time to consider,

as from what little I had heard or thought on the subject I had

scruples about declaring my belief in all the dogmas of the Church of

England; though otherwise I liked the thought of being a country

clergyman. Accordingly I read with care ‘Pearson on the Creed,’ and a

few other books on divinity; and as I did not then in the least doubt

the strict and literal truth of every word in the Bible, I soon

persuaded myself that our Creed must be fully accepted.

Considering how fiercely I have been attacked by the orthodox, it seems

ludicrous that I once intended to be a clergyman. Nor was this

intention and my father’s wish ever formerly given up, but died a

natural death when, on leaving Cambridge, I joined the “Beagle” as

naturalist. If the phrenologists are to be trusted, I was well fitted

in one respect to be a clergyman. A few years ago the secretaries of a

German psychological society asked me earnestly by letter for a

photograph of myself; and some time afterwards I received the

proceedings of one of the meetings, in which it seemed that the shape

of my head had been the subject of a public discussion, and one of the

speakers declared that I had the bump of reverence developed enough for

ten priests.

As it was decided that I should be a clergyman, it was necessary that I

should go to one of the English universities and take a degree; but as

I had never opened a classical book since leaving school, I found to my

dismay, that in the two intervening years I had actually forgotten,

incredible as it may appear, almost everything which I had learnt, even

to some few of the Greek letters. I did not therefore proceed to

Cambridge at the usual time in October, but worked with a private tutor

in Shrewsbury, and went to Cambridge after the Christmas vacation,

early in 1828. I soon recovered my school standard of knowledge, and

could translate easy Greek books, such as Homer and the Greek

Testament, with moderate facility.

During the three years which I spent at Cambridge my time was wasted,

as far as the academical studies were concerned, as completely as at

Edinburgh and at school. I attempted mathematics, and even went during

the summer of 1828 with a private tutor (a very dull man) to Barmouth,

but I got on very slowly. The work was repugnant to me, chiefly from my

not being able to see any meaning in the early steps in algebra. This

impatience was very foolish, and in after years I have deeply regretted

that I did not proceed far enough at least to understand something of

the great leading principles of mathematics, for men thus endowed seem

to have an extra sense. But I do not believe that I should ever have

succeeded beyond a very low grade. With respect to Classics I did

nothing except attend a few compulsory college lectures, and the

attendance was almost nominal. In my second year I had to work for a

month or two to pass the Little-Go, which I did easily. Again, in my

last year I worked with some earnestness for my final degree of B.A.,

and brushed up my Classics, together with a little Algebra and Euclid,

which latter gave me much pleasure, as it did at school. In order to

pass the B.A. examination, it was also necessary to get up Paley’s

‘Evidences of Christianity,’ and his ‘Moral Philosophy.’ This was done

in a thorough manner, and I am convinced that I could have written out

the whole of the ‘Evidences’ with perfect correctness, but not of

course in the clear language of Paley. The logic of this book and, as I

may add, of his ‘Natural Theology,’ gave me as much delight as did

Euclid. The careful study of these works, without attempting to learn

any part by rote, was the only part of the academical course which, as

I then felt and as I still believe, was of the least use to me in the

education of my mind. I did not at that time trouble myself about

Paley’s premises; and taking these on trust, I was charmed and

convinced by the long line of argumentation. By answering well the

examination questions in Paley, by doing Euclid well, and by not

failing miserably in Classics, I gained a good place among the oi

polloi or crowd of men who do not go in for honours. Oddly enough, I

cannot remember how high I stood, and my memory fluctuates between the

fifth, tenth, or twelfth, name on the list. (Tenth in the list of

January 1831.)

Public lectures on several branches were given in the University,

attendance being quite voluntary; but I was so sickened with lectures

at Edinburgh that I did not even attend Sedgwick’s eloquent and

interesting lectures. Had I done so I should probably have become a

geologist earlier than I did. I attended, however, Henslow’s lectures

on Botany, and liked them much for their extreme clearness, and the

admirable illustrations; but I did not study botany. Henslow used to

take his pupils, including several of the older members of the

University, field excursions, on foot or in coaches, to distant places,

or in a barge down the river, and lectured on the rarer plants and

animals which were observed. These excursions were delightful.

Although, as we shall presently see, there were some redeeming features

in my life at Cambridge, my time was sadly wasted there, and worse than

wasted. From my passion for shooting and for hunting, and, when this

failed, for riding across country, I got into a sporting set, including

some dissipated low-minded young men. We used often to dine together in

the evening, though these dinners often included men of a higher stamp,

and we sometimes drank too much, with jolly singing and playing at

cards afterwards. I know that I ought to feel ashamed of days and

evenings thus spent, but as some of my friends were very pleasant, and

we were all in the highest spirits, I cannot help looking back to these

times with much pleasure.

But I am glad to think that I had many other friends of a widely

different nature. I was very intimate with Whitley (Rev. C. Whitley,

Hon. Canon of Durham, formerly Reader in Natural Philosophy in Durham

University.), who was afterwards Senior Wrangler, and we used

continually to take long walks together. He inoculated me with a taste

for pictures and good engravings, of which I bought some. I frequently

went to the Fitzwilliam Gallery, and my taste must have been fairly

good, for I certainly admired the best pictures, which I discussed with

the old curator. I read also with much interest Sir Joshua Reynolds’

book. This taste, though not natural to me, lasted for several years,

and many of the pictures in the National Gallery in London gave me much

pleasure; that of Sebastian del Piombo exciting in me a sense of

sublimity.

I also got into a musical set, I believe by means of my warm-hearted

friend, Herbert (The late John Maurice Herbert, County Court Judge of

Cardiff and the Monmouth Circuit.), who took a high wrangler’s degree.

From associating with these men, and hearing them play, I acquired a

strong taste for music, and used very often to time my walks so as to

hear on week days the anthem in King’s College Chapel. This gave me

intense pleasure, so that my backbone would sometimes shiver. I am sure

that there was no affectation or mere imitation in this taste, for I

used generally to go by myself to King’s College, and I sometimes hired

the chorister boys to sing in my rooms. Nevertheless I am so utterly

destitute of an ear, that I cannot perceive a discord, or keep time and

hum a tune correctly; and it is a mystery how I could possibly have

derived pleasure from music.

My musical friends soon perceived my state, and sometimes amused

themselves by making me pass an examination, which consisted in

ascertaining how many tunes I could recognise when they were played

rather more quickly or slowly than usual. ‘God save the King,’ when

thus played, was a sore puzzle. There was another man with almost as

bad an ear as I had, and strange to say he played a little on the

flute. Once I had the triumph of beating him in one of our musical

examinations.

But no pursuit at Cambridge was followed with nearly so much eagerness

or gave me so much pleasure as collecting beetles. It was the mere

passion for collecting, for I did not dissect them, and rarely compared

their external characters with published descriptions, but got them

named anyhow. I will give a proof of my zeal: one day, on tearing off

some old bark, I saw two rare beetles, and seized one in each hand;

then I saw a third and new kind, which I could not bear to lose, so

that I popped the one which I held in my right hand into my mouth.

Alas! it ejected some intensely acrid fluid, which burnt my tongue so

that I was forced to spit the beetle out, which was lost, as was the

third one.

I was very successful in collecting, and invented two new methods; I

employed a labourer to scrape during the winter, moss off old trees and

place it in a large bag, and likewise to collect the rubbish at the

bottom of the barges in which reeds are brought from the fens, and thus

I got some very rare species. No poet ever felt more delighted at

seeing his first poem published than I did at seeing, in Stephens’

‘Illustrations of British Insects,’ the magic words, “captured by C.

Darwin, Esq.” I was introduced to entomology by my second cousin W.

Darwin Fox, a clever and most pleasant man, who was then at Christ’s

College, and with whom I became extremely intimate. Afterwards I became

well acquainted, and went out collecting, with Albert Way of Trinity,

who in after years became a well-known archaeologist; also with H.

Thompson of the same College, afterwards a leading agriculturist,

chairman of a great railway, and Member of Parliament. It seems

therefore that a taste for collecting beetles is some indication of

future success in life!

I am surprised what an indelible impression many of the beetles which I

caught at Cambridge have left on my mind. I can remember the exact

appearance of certain posts, old trees and banks where I made a good

capture. The pretty Panagaeus crux-major was a treasure in those days,

and here at Down I saw a beetle running across a walk, and on picking

it up instantly perceived that it differed slightly from P. crux-major,

and it turned out to be P. quadripunctatus, which is only a variety or

closely allied species, differing from it very slightly in outline. I

had never seen in those old days Licinus alive, which to an uneducated

eye hardly differs from many of the black Carabidous beetles; but my

sons found here a specimen, and I instantly recognised that it was new

to me; yet I had not looked at a British beetle for the last twenty

years.

I have not as yet mentioned a circumstance which influenced my whole

career more than any other. This was my friendship with Professor

Henslow. Before coming up to Cambridge, I had heard of him from my

brother as a man who knew every branch of science, and I was

accordingly prepared to reverence him. He kept open house once every

week when all undergraduates, and some older members of the University,

who were attached to science, used to meet in the evening. I soon got,

through Fox, an invitation, and went there regularly. Before long I

became well acquainted with Henslow, and during the latter half of my

time at Cambridge took long walks with him on most days; so that I was

called by some of the dons “the man who walks with Henslow;” and in the

evening I was very often asked to join his family dinner. His knowledge

was great in botany, entomology, chemistry, mineralogy, and geology.

His strongest taste was to draw conclusions from long-continued minute

observations. His judgment was excellent, and his whole mind well

balanced; but I do not suppose that any one would say that he possessed

much original genius. He was deeply religious, and so orthodox that he

told me one day he should be grieved if a single word of the

Thirty-nine Articles were altered. His moral qualities were in every

way admirable. He was free from every tinge of vanity or other petty

feeling; and I never saw a man who thought so little about himself or

his own concerns. His temper was imperturbably good, with the most

winning and courteous manners; yet, as I have seen, he could be roused

by any bad action to the warmest indignation and prompt action.

I once saw in his company in the streets of Cambridge almost as horrid

a scene as could have been witnessed during the French Revolution. Two

body-snatchers had been arrested, and whilst being taken to prison had

been torn from the constable by a crowd of the roughest men, who

dragged them by their legs along the muddy and stony road. They were

covered from head to foot with mud, and their faces were bleeding

either from having been kicked or from the stones; they looked like

corpses, but the crowd was so dense that I got only a few momentary

glimpses of the wretched creatures. Never in my life have I seen such

wrath painted on a man’s face as was shown by Henslow at this horrid

scene. He tried repeatedly to penetrate the mob; but it was simply

impossible. He then rushed away to the mayor, telling me not to follow

him, but to get more policemen. I forget the issue, except that the two

men were got into the prison without being killed.

Henslow’s benevolence was unbounded, as he proved by his many excellent

schemes for his poor parishioners, when in after years he held the

living of Hitcham. My intimacy with such a man ought to have been, and

I hope was, an inestimable benefit. I cannot resist mentioning a

trifling incident, which showed his kind consideration. Whilst

examining some pollen-grains on a damp surface, I saw the tubes

exserted, and instantly rushed off to communicate my surprising

discovery to him. Now I do not suppose any other professor of botany

could have helped laughing at my coming in such a hurry to make such a

communication. But he agreed how interesting the phenomenon was, and

explained its meaning, but made me clearly understand how well it was

known; so I left him not in the least mortified, but well pleased at

having discovered for myself so remarkable a fact, but determined not

to be in such a hurry again to communicate my discoveries.

Dr. Whewell was one of the older and distinguished men who sometimes

visited Henslow, and on several occasions I walked home with him at

night. Next to Sir J. Mackintosh he was the best converser on grave

subjects to whom I ever listened. Leonard Jenyns (The well-known Soame

Jenyns was cousin to Mr. Jenyns’ father.), who afterwards published

some good essays in Natural History (Mr. Jenyns (now Blomefield)

described the fish for the Zoology of the “Beagle”; and is author of a

long series of papers, chiefly Zoological.), often stayed with Henslow,

who was his brother-in-law. I visited him at his parsonage on the

borders of the Fens [Swaffham Bulbeck], and had many a good walk and

talk with him about Natural History. I became also acquainted with

several other men older than me, who did not care much about science,

but were friends of Henslow. One was a Scotchman, brother of Sir

Alexander Ramsay, and tutor of Jesus College: he was a delightful man,

but did not live for many years. Another was Mr. Dawes, afterwards Dean

of Hereford, and famous for his success in the education of the poor.

These men and others of the same standing, together with Henslow, used

sometimes to take distant excursions into the country, which I was

allowed to join, and they were most agreeable.

Looking back, I infer that there must have been something in me a

little superior to the common run of youths, otherwise the

above-mentioned men, so much older than me and higher in academical

position, would never have allowed me to associate with them. Certainly

I was not aware of any such superiority, and I remember one of my

sporting friends, Turner, who saw me at work with my beetles, saying

that I should some day be a Fellow of the Royal Society, and the notion

seemed to me preposterous.

During my last year at Cambridge, I read with care and profound

interest Humboldt’s ‘Personal Narrative.’ This work, and Sir J.

Herschel’s ‘Introduction to the Study of Natural Philosophy,’ stirred

up in me a burning zeal to add even the most humble contribution to the

noble structure of Natural Science. No one or a dozen other books

influenced me nearly so much as these two. I copied out from Humboldt

long passages about Teneriffe, and read them aloud on one of the

above-mentioned excursions, to (I think) Henslow, Ramsay, and Dawes,

for on a previous occasion I had talked about the glories of Teneriffe,

and some of the party declared they would endeavour to go there; but I

think that they were only half in earnest. I was, however, quite in

earnest, and got an introduction to a merchant in London to enquire

about ships; but the scheme was, of course, knocked on the head by the

voyage of the “Beagle”.

My summer vacations were given up to collecting beetles, to some

reading, and short tours. In the autumn my whole time was devoted to

shooting, chiefly at Woodhouse and Maer, and sometimes with young Eyton

of Eyton. Upon the whole the three years which I spent at Cambridge

were the most joyful in my happy life; for I was then in excellent

health, and almost always in high spirits.

As I had at first come up to Cambridge at Christmas, I was forced to

keep two terms after passing my final examination, at the commencement

of 1831; and Henslow then persuaded me to begin the study of geology.

Therefore on my return to Shropshire I examined sections, and coloured

a map of parts round Shrewsbury. Professor Sedgwick intended to visit

North Wales in the beginning of August to pursue his famous geological

investigations amongst the older rocks, and Henslow asked him to allow

me to accompany him. (In connection with this tour my father used to

tell a story about Sedgwick: they had started from their inn one

morning, and had walked a mile or two, when Sedgwick suddenly stopped,

and vowed that he would return, being certain “that damned scoundrel”

(the waiter) had not given the chambermaid the sixpence intrusted to

him for the purpose. He was ultimately persuaded to give up the

project, seeing that there was no reason for suspecting the waiter of

especial perfidy.—F.D.) Accordingly he came and slept at my father’s

house.

A short conversation with him during this evening produced a strong

impression on my mind. Whilst examining an old gravel-pit near

Shrewsbury, a labourer told me that he had found in it a large worn

tropical Volute shell, such as may be seen on the chimney-pieces of

cottages; and as he would not sell the shell, I was convinced that he

had really found it in the pit. I told Sedgwick of the fact, and he at

once said (no doubt truly) that it must have been thrown away by some

one into the pit; but then added, if really embedded there it would be

the greatest misfortune to geology, as it would overthrow all that we

know about the superficial deposits of the Midland Counties. These

gravel-beds belong in fact to the glacial period, and in after years I

found in them broken arctic shells. But I was then utterly astonished

at Sedgwick not being delighted at so wonderful a fact as a tropical

shell being found near the surface in the middle of England. Nothing

before had ever made me thoroughly realise, though I had read various

scientific books, that science consists in grouping facts so that

general laws or conclusions may be drawn from them.

Next morning we started for Llangollen, Conway, Bangor, and Capel

Curig. This tour was of decided use in teaching me a little how to make

out the geology of a country. Sedgwick often sent me on a line parallel

to his, telling me to bring back specimens of the rocks and to mark the

stratification on a map. I have little doubt that he did this for my

good, as I was too ignorant to have aided him. On this tour I had a

striking instance of how easy it is to overlook phenomena, however

conspicuous, before they have been observed by any one. We spent many

hours in Cwm Idwal, examining all the rocks with extreme care, as

Sedgwick was anxious to find fossils in them; but neither of us saw a

trace of the wonderful glacial phenomena all around us; we did not

notice the plainly scored rocks, the perched boulders, the lateral and

terminal moraines. Yet these phenomena are so conspicuous that, as I

declared in a paper published many years afterwards in the

‘Philosophical Magazine’ (‘Philosophical Magazine,’ 1842.), a house

burnt down by fire did not tell its story more plainly than did this

valley. If it had still been filled by a glacier, the phenomena would

have been less distinct than they now are.

At Capel Curig I left Sedgwick and went in a straight line by compass

and map across the mountains to Barmouth, never following any track

unless it coincided with my course. I thus came on some strange wild

places, and enjoyed much this manner of travelling. I visited Barmouth

to see some Cambridge friends who were reading there, and thence

returned to Shrewsbury and to Maer for shooting; for at that time I

should have thought myself mad to give up the first days of

partridge-shooting for geology or any other science.

“VOYAGE OF THE ‘BEAGLE’ FROM DECEMBER 27, 1831, TO OCTOBER 2, 1836.”

On returning home from my short geological tour in North Wales, I found

a letter from Henslow, informing me that Captain Fitz-Roy was willing

to give up part of his own cabin to any young man who would volunteer

to go with him without pay as naturalist to the Voyage of the “Beagle”.

I have given, as I believe, in my MS. Journal an account of all the

circumstances which then occurred; I will here only say that I was

instantly eager to accept the offer, but my father strongly objected,

adding the words, fortunate for me, “If you can find any man of common

sense who advises you to go I will give my consent.” So I wrote that

evening and refused the offer. On the next morning I went to Maer to be

ready for September 1st, and, whilst out shooting, my uncle (Josiah

Wedgwood.) sent for me, offering to drive me over to Shrewsbury and

talk with my father, as my uncle thought it would be wise in me to

accept the offer. My father always maintained that he was one of the

most sensible men in the world, and he at once consented in the kindest

manner. I had been rather extravagant at Cambridge, and to console my

father, said, “that I should be deuced clever to spend more than my

allowance whilst on board the ‘Beagle’;” but he answered with a smile,

“But they tell me you are very clever.”

Next day I started for Cambridge to see Henslow, and thence to London

to see Fitz-Roy, and all was soon arranged. Afterwards, on becoming

very intimate with Fitz-Roy, I heard that I had run a very narrow risk

of being rejected, on account of the shape of my nose! He was an ardent

disciple of Lavater, and was convinced that he could judge of a man’s

character by the outline of his features; and he doubted whether any

one with my nose could possess sufficient energy and determination for

the voyage. But I think he was afterwards well satisfied that my nose

had spoken falsely.

Fitz-Roy’s character was a singular one, with very many noble features:

he was devoted to his duty, generous to a fault, bold, determined, and

indomitably energetic, and an ardent friend to all under his sway. He

would undertake any sort of trouble to assist those whom he thought

deserved assistance. He was a handsome man, strikingly like a

gentleman, with highly courteous manners, which resembled those of his

maternal uncle, the famous Lord Castlereagh, as I was told by the

Minister at Rio. Nevertheless he must have inherited much in his

appearance from Charles II., for Dr. Wallich gave me a collection of

photographs which he had made, and I was struck with the resemblance of

one to Fitz-Roy; and on looking at the name, I found it Ch. E. Sobieski

Stuart, Count d’Albanie, a descendant of the same monarch.

Fitz-Roy’s temper was a most unfortunate one. It was usually worst in

the early morning, and with his eagle eye he could generally detect

something amiss about the ship, and was then unsparing in his blame. He

was very kind to me, but was a man very difficult to live with on the

intimate terms which necessarily followed from our messing by ourselves

in the same cabin. We had several quarrels; for instance, early in the

voyage at Bahia, in Brazil, he defended and praised slavery, which I

abominated, and told me that he had just visited a great slave-owner,

who had called up many of his slaves and asked them whether they were

happy, and whether they wished to be free, and all answered “No.” I

then asked him, perhaps with a sneer, whether he thought that the

answer of slaves in the presence of their master was worth anything?

This made him excessively angry, and he said that as I doubted his word

we could not live any longer together. I thought that I should have

been compelled to leave the ship; but as soon as the news spread, which

it did quickly, as the captain sent for the first lieutenant to assuage

his anger by abusing me, I was deeply gratified by receiving an

invitation from all the gun-room officers to mess with them. But after

a few hours Fitz-Roy showed his usual magnanimity by sending an officer

to me with an apology and a request that I would continue to live with

him.

His character was in several respects one of the most noble which I

have ever known.

The voyage of the “Beagle” has been by far the most important event in

my life, and has determined my whole career; yet it depended on so

small a circumstance as my uncle offering to drive me thirty miles to

Shrewsbury, which few uncles would have done, and on such a trifle as

the shape of my nose. I have always felt that I owe to the voyage the

first real training or education of my mind; I was led to attend

closely to several branches of natural history, and thus my powers of

observation were improved, though they were always fairly developed.

The investigation of the geology of all the places visited was far more

important, as reasoning here comes into play. On first examining a new

district nothing can appear more hopeless than the chaos of rocks; but

by recording the stratification and nature of the rocks and fossils at

many points, always reasoning and predicting what will be found

elsewhere, light soon begins to dawn on the district, and the structure

of the whole becomes more or less intelligible. I had brought with me

the first volume of Lyell’s ‘Principles of Geology,’ which I studied

attentively; and the book was of the highest service to me in many

ways. The very first place which I examined, namely St. Jago in the

Cape de Verde islands, showed me clearly the wonderful superiority of

Lyell’s manner of treating geology, compared with that of any other

author, whose works I had with me or ever afterwards read.

Another of my occupations was collecting animals of all classes,

briefly describing and roughly dissecting many of the marine ones; but

from not being able to draw, and from not having sufficient anatomical

knowledge, a great pile of MS. which I made during the voyage has

proved almost useless. I thus lost much time, with the exception of

that spent in acquiring some knowledge of the Crustaceans, as this was

of service when in after years I undertook a monograph of the

Cirripedia.

During some part of the day I wrote my Journal, and took much pains in

describing carefully and vividly all that I had seen; and this was good

practice. My Journal served also, in part, as letters to my home, and

portions were sent to England whenever there was an opportunity.

The above various special studies were, however, of no importance

compared with the habit of energetic industry and of concentrated

attention to whatever I was engaged in, which I then acquired.

Everything about which I thought or read was made to bear directly on

what I had seen or was likely to see; and this habit of mind was

continued during the five years of the voyage. I feel sure that it was

this training which has enabled me to do whatever I have done in

science.

Looking backwards, I can now perceive how my love for science gradually

preponderated over every other taste. During the first two years my old

passion for shooting survived in nearly full force, and I shot myself

all the birds and animals for my collection; but gradually I gave up my

gun more and more, and finally altogether, to my servant, as shooting

interfered with my work, more especially with making out the geological

structure of a country. I discovered, though unconsciously and

insensibly, that the pleasure of observing and reasoning was a much

higher one than that of skill and sport. That my mind became developed

through my pursuits during the voyage is rendered probable by a remark

made by my father, who was the most acute observer whom I ever saw, of

a sceptical disposition, and far from being a believer in phrenology;

for on first seeing me after the voyage, he turned round to my sisters,

and exclaimed, “Why, the shape of his head is quite altered.”

To return to the voyage. On September 11th (1831), I paid a flying

visit with Fitz-Roy to the “Beagle” at Plymouth. Thence to Shrewsbury

to wish my father and sisters a long farewell. On October 24th I took

up my residence at Plymouth, and remained there until December 27th,

when the “Beagle” finally left the shores of England for her

circumnavigation of the world. We made two earlier attempts to sail,

but were driven back each time by heavy gales. These two months at

Plymouth were the most miserable which I ever spent, though I exerted

myself in various ways. I was out of spirits at the thought of leaving

all my family and friends for so long a time, and the weather seemed to

me inexpressibly gloomy. I was also troubled with palpitation and pain

about the heart, and like many a young ignorant man, especially one

with a smattering of medical knowledge, was convinced that I had heart

disease. I did not consult any doctor, as I fully expected to hear the

verdict that I was not fit for the voyage, and I was resolved to go at

all hazards.

I need not here refer to the events of the voyage—where we went and

what we did—as I have given a sufficiently full account in my published

Journal. The glories of the vegetation of the Tropics rise before my

mind at the present time more vividly than anything else; though the

sense of sublimity, which the great deserts of Patagonia and the

forest-clad mountains of Tierra del Fuego excited in me, has left an

indelible impression on my mind. The sight of a naked savage in his

native land is an event which can never be forgotten. Many of my

excursions on horseback through wild countries, or in the boats, some

of which lasted several weeks, were deeply interesting: their

discomfort and some degree of danger were at that time hardly a

drawback, and none at all afterwards. I also reflect with high

satisfaction on some of my scientific work, such as solving the problem

of coral islands, and making out the geological structure of certain

islands, for instance, St. Helena. Nor must I pass over the discovery

of the singular relations of the animals and plants inhabiting the

several islands of the Galapagos archipelago, and of all of them to the

inhabitants of South America.

As far as I can judge of myself, I worked to the utmost during the

voyage from the mere pleasure of investigation, and from my strong

desire to add a few facts to the great mass of facts in Natural

Science. But I was also ambitious to take a fair place among scientific

men,—whether more ambitious or less so than most of my fellow-workers,

I can form no opinion.

The geology of St. Jago is very striking, yet simple: a stream of lava

formerly flowed over the bed of the sea, formed of triturated recent

shells and corals, which it has baked into a hard white rock. Since

then the whole island has been upheaved. But the line of white rock

revealed to me a new and important fact, namely, that there had been

afterwards subsidence round the craters, which had since been in

action, and had poured forth lava. It then first dawned on me that I

might perhaps write a book on the geology of the various countries

visited, and this made me thrill with delight. That was a memorable

hour to me, and how distinctly I can call to mind the low cliff of lava

beneath which I rested, with the sun glaring hot, a few strange desert

plants growing near, and with living corals in the tidal pools at my

feet. Later in the voyage, Fitz-Roy asked me to read some of my

Journal, and declared it would be worth publishing; so here was a

second book in prospect!

Towards the close of our voyage I received a letter whilst at

Ascension, in which my sisters told me that Sedgwick had called on my

father, and said that I should take a place among the leading

scientific men. I could not at the time understand how he could have

learnt anything of my proceedings, but I heard (I believe afterwards)

that Henslow had read some of the letters which I wrote to him before

the Philosophical Society of Cambridge (Read at the meeting held

November 16, 1835, and printed in a pamphlet of 31 pages for

distribution among the members of the Society.), and had printed them

for private distribution. My collection of fossil bones, which had been

sent to Henslow, also excited considerable attention amongst

palaeontologists. After reading this letter, I clambered over the

mountains of Ascension with a bounding step, and made the volcanic

rocks resound under my geological hammer. All this shows how ambitious

I was; but I think that I can say with truth that in after years,

though I cared in the highest degree for the approbation of such men as

Lyell and Hooker, who were my friends, I did not care much about the

general public. I do not mean to say that a favourable review or a

large sale of my books did not please me greatly, but the pleasure was

a fleeting one, and I am sure that I have never turned one inch out of

my course to gain fame.

FROM MY RETURN TO ENGLAND (OCTOBER 2, 1836) TO MY MARRIAGE (JANUARY 29,

1839.)

These two years and three months were the most active ones which I ever

spent, though I was occasionally unwell, and so lost some time. After

going backwards and forwards several times between Shrewsbury, Maer,

Cambridge, and London, I settled in lodgings at Cambridge (In

Fitzwilliam Street.) on December 13th, where all my collections were

under the care of Henslow. I stayed here three months, and got my

minerals and rocks examined by the aid of Professor Miller.

I began preparing my ‘Journal of Travels,’ which was not hard work, as

my MS. Journal had been written with care, and my chief labour was

making an abstract of my more interesting scientific results. I sent

also, at the request of Lyell, a short account of my observations on

the elevation of the coast of Chile to the Geological Society.

(‘Geolog. Soc. Proc. ii. 1838, pages 446-449.)

On March 7th, 1837, I took lodgings in Great Marlborough Street in

London, and remained there for nearly two years, until I was married.

During these two years I finished my Journal, read several papers

before the Geological Society, began preparing the MS. for my

‘Geological Observations,’ and arranged for the publication of the

‘Zoology of the Voyage of the “Beagle”.’ In July I opened my first

note-book for facts in relation to the Origin of Species, about which I

had long reflected, and never ceased working for the next twenty years.

During these two years I also went a little into society, and acted as

one of the honorary secretaries of the Geological Society. I saw a

great deal of Lyell. One of his chief characteristics was his sympathy

with the work of others, and I was as much astonished as delighted at

the interest which he showed when, on my return to England, I explained

to him my views on coral reefs. This encouraged me greatly, and his

advice and example had much influence on me. During this time I saw

also a good deal of Robert Brown; I used often to call and sit with him

during his breakfast on Sunday mornings, and he poured forth a rich

treasure of curious observations and acute remarks, but they almost

always related to minute points, and he never with me discussed large

or general questions in science.

During these two years I took several short excursions as a relaxation,

and one longer one to the Parallel Roads of Glen Roy, an account of

which was published in the ‘Philosophical Transactions.’ (1839, pages

39-82.) This paper was a great failure, and I am ashamed of it. Having

been deeply impressed with what I had seen of the elevation of the land

of South America, I attributed the parallel lines to the action of the

sea; but I had to give up this view when Agassiz propounded his

glacier-lake theory. Because no other explanation was possible under

our then state of knowledge, I argued in favour of sea-action; and my

error has been a good lesson to me never to trust in science to the

principle of exclusion.

As I was not able to work all day at science, I read a good deal during

these two years on various subjects, including some metaphysical books;

but I was not well fitted for such studies. About this time I took much

delight in Wordsworth’s and Coleridge’s poetry; and can boast that I

read the ‘Excursion’ twice through. Formerly Milton’s ‘Paradise Lost’

had been my chief favourite, and in my excursions during the voyage of

the “Beagle”, when I could take only a single volume, I always chose

Milton.

FROM MY MARRIAGE, JANUARY 29, 1839, AND RESIDENCE IN UPPER GOWER

STREET, TO OUR LEAVING LONDON AND SETTLING AT DOWN, SEPTEMBER 14,

1842.

(After speaking of his happy married life, and of his children, he

continues:—)

During the three years and eight months whilst we resided in London, I

did less scientific work, though I worked as hard as I possibly could,

than during any other equal length of time in my life. This was owing

to frequently recurring unwellness, and to one long and serious

illness. The greater part of my time, when I could do anything, was

devoted to my work on ‘Coral Reefs,’ which I had begun before my

marriage, and of which the last proof-sheet was corrected on May 6th,

1842. This book, though a small one, cost me twenty months of hard

work, as I had to read every work on the islands of the Pacific and to

consult many charts. It was thought highly of by scientific men, and

the theory therein given is, I think, now well established.

No other work of mine was begun in so deductive a spirit as this, for

the whole theory was thought out on the west coast of South America,

before I had seen a true coral reef. I had therefore only to verify and

extend my views by a careful examination of living reefs. But it should

be observed that I had during the two previous years been incessantly

attending to the effects on the shores of South America of the

intermittent elevation of the land, together with denudation and the

deposition of sediment. This necessarily led me to reflect much on the

effects of subsidence, and it was easy to replace in imagination the

continued deposition of sediment by the upward growth of corals. To do

this was to form my theory of the formation of barrier-reefs and

atolls.

Besides my work on coral-reefs, during my residence in London, I read

before the Geological Society papers on the Erratic Boulders of South

America (‘Geolog. Soc. Proc.’ iii. 1842.), on Earthquakes (‘Geolog.

Trans. v. 1840.), and on the Formation by the Agency of Earth-worms of

Mould. (‘Geolog. Soc. Proc. ii. 1838.) I also continued to superintend

the publication of the ‘Zoology of the Voyage of the “Beagle”.’ Nor did

I ever intermit collecting facts bearing on the origin of species; and

I could sometimes do this when I could do nothing else from illness.

In the summer of 1842 I was stronger than I had been for some time, and

took a little tour by myself in North Wales, for the sake of observing

the effects of the old glaciers which formerly filled all the larger

valleys. I published a short account of what I saw in the

‘Philosophical Magazine.’ (‘Philosophical Magazine,’ 1842.) This

excursion interested me greatly, and it was the last time I was ever

strong enough to climb mountains or to take long walks such as are

necessary for geological work.

During the early part of our life in London, I was strong enough to go

into general society, and saw a good deal of several scientific men,

and other more or less distinguished men. I will give my impressions

with respect to some of them, though I have little to say worth saying.

I saw more of Lyell than of any other man, both before and after my

marriage. His mind was characterised, as it appeared to me, by

clearness, caution, sound judgment, and a good deal of originality.

When I made any remark to him on Geology, he never rested until he saw

the whole case clearly, and often made me see it more clearly than I

had done before. He would advance all possible objections to my

suggestion, and even after these were exhausted would long remain

dubious. A second characteristic was his hearty sympathy with the work

of other scientific men. (The slight repetition here observable is

accounted for by the notes on Lyell, etc., having been added in April,

1881, a few years after the rest of the ‘Recollections’ were written.)

On my return from the voyage of the “Beagle”, I explained to him my

views on coral-reefs, which differed from his, and I was greatly

surprised and encouraged by the vivid interest which he showed. His

delight in science was ardent, and he felt the keenest interest in the

future progress of mankind. He was very kind-hearted, and thoroughly

liberal in his religious beliefs, or rather disbeliefs; but he was a

strong theist. His candour was highly remarkable. He exhibited this by

becoming a convert to the Descent theory, though he had gained much

fame by opposing Lamarck’s views, and this after he had grown old. He

reminded me that I had many years before said to him, when discussing

the opposition of the old school of geologists to his new views, “What

a good thing it would be if every scientific man was to die when sixty

years old, as afterwards he would be sure to oppose all new doctrines.”

But he hoped that now he might be allowed to live.

The science of Geology is enormously indebted to Lyell—more so, as I

believe, than to any other man who ever lived. When [I was] starting on

the voyage of the “Beagle”, the sagacious Henslow, who, like all other

geologists, believed at that time in successive cataclysms, advised me

to get and study the first volume of the ‘Principles,’ which had then

just been published, but on no account to accept the views therein

advocated. How differently would anyone now speak of the ‘Principles’!

I am proud to remember that the first place, namely, St. Jago, in the

Cape de Verde archipelago, in which I geologised, convinced me of the

infinite superiority of Lyell’s views over those advocated in any other

work known to me.

The powerful effects of Lyell’s works could formerly be plainly seen in

the different progress of the science in France and England. The

present total oblivion of Elie de Beaumont’s wild hypotheses, such as

his ‘Craters of Elevation’ and ‘Lines of Elevation’ (which latter

hypothesis I heard Sedgwick at the Geological Society lauding to the

skies), may be largely attributed to Lyell.

I saw a good deal of Robert Brown, “facile Princeps Botanicorum,” as he

was called by Humboldt. He seemed to me to be chiefly remarkable for

the minuteness of his observations, and their perfect accuracy. His

knowledge was extraordinarily great, and much died with him, owing to

his excessive fear of ever making a mistake. He poured out his

knowledge to me in the most unreserved manner, yet was strangely

jealous on some points. I called on him two or three times before the

voyage of the “Beagle”, and on one occasion he asked me to look through

a microscope and describe what I saw. This I did, and believe now that

it was the marvellous currents of protoplasm in some vegetable cell. I

then asked him what I had seen; but he answered me, “That is my little

secret.”

He was capable of the most generous actions. When old, much out of

health, and quite unfit for any exertion, he daily visited (as Hooker

told me) an old man-servant, who lived at a distance (and whom he

supported), and read aloud to him. This is enough to make up for any

degree of scientific penuriousness or jealousy.

I may here mention a few other eminent men, whom I have occasionally

seen, but I have little to say about them worth saying. I felt a high

reverence for Sir J. Herschel, and was delighted to dine with him at

his charming house at the Cape of Good Hope, and afterwards at his

London house. I saw him, also, on a few other occasions. He never

talked much, but every word which he uttered was worth listening to.

I once met at breakfast at Sir R. Murchison’s house the illustrious

Humboldt, who honoured me by expressing a wish to see me. I was a

little disappointed with the great man, but my anticipations probably

were too high. I can remember nothing distinctly about our interview,

except that Humboldt was very cheerful and talked much.

—reminds me of Buckle whom I once met at Hensleigh Wedgwood’s. I was

very glad to learn from him his system of collecting facts. He told me

that he bought all the books which he read, and made a full index, to

each, of the facts which he thought might prove serviceable to him, and

that he could always remember in what book he had read anything, for

his memory was wonderful. I asked him how at first he could judge what

facts would be serviceable, and he answered that he did not know, but

that a sort of instinct guided him. From this habit of making indices,

he was enabled to give the astonishing number of references on all

sorts of subjects, which may be found in his ‘History of Civilisation.’

This book I thought most interesting, and read it twice, but I doubt

whether his generalisations are worth anything. Buckle was a great

talker, and I listened to him saying hardly a word, nor indeed could I

have done so for he left no gaps. When Mrs. Farrer began to sing, I

jumped up and said that I must listen to her; after I had moved away he

turned around to a friend and said (as was overheard by my brother),

“Well, Mr. Darwin’s books are much better than his conversation.”

Of other great literary men, I once met Sydney Smith at Dean Milman’s

house. There was something inexplicably amusing in every word which he

uttered. Perhaps this was partly due to the expectation of being

amused. He was talking about Lady Cork, who was then extremely old.

This was the lady who, as he said, was once so much affected by one of

his charity sermons, that she _borrowed_ a guinea from a friend to put

in the plate. He now said “It is generally believed that my dear old

friend Lady Cork has been overlooked,” and he said this in such a

manner that no one could for a moment doubt that he meant that his dear

old friend had been overlooked by the devil. How he managed to express

this I know not.

I likewise once met Macaulay at Lord Stanhope’s (the historian’s)

house, and as there was only one other man at dinner, I had a grand

opportunity of hearing him converse, and he was very agreeable. He did

not talk at all too much; nor indeed could such a man talk too much, as

long as he allowed others to turn the stream of his conversation, and

this he did allow.

Lord Stanhope once gave me a curious little proof of the accuracy and

fulness of Macaulay’s memory: many historians used often to meet at

Lord Stanhope’s house, and in discussing various subjects they would

sometimes differ from Macaulay, and formerly they often referred to

some book to see who was right; but latterly, as Lord Stanhope noticed,

no historian ever took this trouble, and whatever Macaulay said was

final.

On another occasion I met at Lord Stanhope’s house, one of his parties

of historians and other literary men, and amongst them were Motley and

Grote. After luncheon I walked about Chevening Park for nearly an hour

with Grote, and was much interested by his conversation and pleased by

the simplicity and absence of all pretension in his manners.

Long ago I dined occasionally with the old Earl, the father of the

historian; he was a strange man, but what little I knew of him I liked

much. He was frank, genial, and pleasant. He had strongly marked

features, with a brown complexion, and his clothes, when I saw him,

were all brown. He seemed to believe in everything which was to others

utterly incredible. He said one day to me, “Why don’t you give up your

fiddle-faddle of geology and zoology, and turn to the occult sciences!”

The historian, then Lord Mahon, seemed shocked at such a speech to me,

and his charming wife much amused.

The last man whom I will mention is Carlyle, seen by me several times

at my brother’s house, and two or three times at my own house. His talk

was very racy and interesting, just like his writings, but he sometimes

went on too long on the same subject. I remember a funny dinner at my

brother’s, where, amongst a few others, were Babbage and Lyell, both of

whom liked to talk. Carlyle, however, silenced every one by haranguing

during the whole dinner on the advantages of silence. After dinner

Babbage, in his grimmest manner, thanked Carlyle for his very

interesting lecture on silence.

Carlyle sneered at almost every one: one day in my house he called

Grote’s ‘History’ “a fetid quagmire, with nothing spiritual about it.”

I always thought, until his ‘Reminiscences’ appeared, that his sneers

were partly jokes, but this now seems rather doubtful. His expression

was that of a depressed, almost despondent yet benevolent man; and it

is notorious how heartily he laughed. I believe that his benevolence

was real, though stained by not a little jealousy. No one can doubt

about his extraordinary power of drawing pictures of things and men—far

more vivid, as it appears to me, than any drawn by Macaulay. Whether

his pictures of men were true ones is another question.

He has been all-powerful in impressing some grand moral truths on the

minds of men. On the other hand, his views about slavery were

revolting. In his eyes might was right. His mind seemed to me a very

narrow one; even if all branches of science, which he despised, are

excluded. It is astonishing to me that Kingsley should have spoken of

him as a man well fitted to advance science. He laughed to scorn the

idea that a mathematician, such as Whewell, could judge, as I

maintained he could, of Goethe’s views on light. He thought it a most

ridiculous thing that any one should care whether a glacier moved a

little quicker or a little slower, or moved at all. As far as I could

judge, I never met a man with a mind so ill adapted for scientific

research.

Whilst living in London, I attended as regularly as I could the

meetings of several scientific societies, and acted as secretary to the

Geological Society. But such attendance, and ordinary society, suited

my health so badly that we resolved to live in the country, which we

both preferred and have never repented of.

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