“One-p’un’-five outside, sir, two p’un’ in.”
It was a bright, calm afternoon in September, promising nothing but a
morrow of sunshine and autumn, when I stepped in at the “White Horse
Cellar,” in Piccadilly, to take my place in the Tantivy coach for
Stratford-on-Avon. Preferring the outside of the coach, at least by as
much as the difference in the prices, and accustomed from long habit to
pay dearest for that which most pleased me, I wrote myself down for the
outside, and deposited my two pounds in the horny palm of the old
ex-coachman, retired from the box, and playing clerk in this dingy den
of parcels and portmanteaus. Supposing my business concluded, I stood a
minute speculating on the weather-beaten, cramp-handed old Jehu before
me, and trying to reconcile his ideas of “retirement from office” with
those of his almost next door neighbor, the hero of Strathfield-Saye.
I had mounted the first stair toward daylight, when a touch on the
shoulder with the end of a long whip—a technical “reminder,” which
probably came easier to the old driver than the phrasing of a sentence
to a “gemman”—recalled me to the cellar.
“Fifteen shillin’, sir,” said he laconically, pointing with the same
expressive exponent of his profession to the change for my outside
place, which I had left lying on the counter.
“You are at least as honest as the Duke,” I soliloquised as I pocketed
the six bright and substantial half-crowns.
I was at the “White Horse Cellar” again the following morning at six,
promising myself with great sincerity never to rely again on the
constancy of an English sky. It rained in torrents. The four inside
places were all taken, and with twelve fellow outsides, I mounted to the
wet seat, and begging a little straw by way of cushion from the ostler,
spread my umbrella, abandoned my knees with a single effort of mind to
the drippings of the driver’s weather-proof upper Benjamin, and away we
sped. I was “due” at the house of a hospitable Catholic Baronet, a
hundred and two miles from London, at the dinner hour of that day, and
to wait till it had done raining in England is to expect the millennium.
London in the morning—I mean the poor man’s morning, daylight—is to me
matter for the most speculative and intense melancholy. Hyde park in the
sunshine of a bright afternoon, glittering with equipages, and gay with
the Aladdin splendors of rank and wealth, is a scene which sends the
mercurial qualities of the blood trippingly through the veins. But Hyde
park at daylight seen from Piccadilly through fog and rain, is perhaps,
of all contrasts, to one who has frequented it in its bright hours, the
most dispiriting and dreary. To remember that behind the barricaded and
wet windows of Apsley house sleeps the hero of Waterloo—that under
these crowded and fog-wrapped houses lie, in their dim chambers
breathing of perfume and luxury, the high-born and nobly-moulded
creatures who preserve for the aristocracy of England the palm of the
world’s beauty—to remember this, and a thousand other associations
linked with the spot, is not at all to diminish, but rather to deepen,
the melancholy of the picture. Why is it that the deserted stage of a
theatre, the echo of an empty ball-room, the loneliness of a frequented
promenade in untimely hours—any scene, in short, of gayety gone by but
remembered—oppresses and dissatisfies the heart! One would think memory
should re-brighten and re-populate such places.
The wheels hissed through the shallow pools in the Macadam road, the
regular pattering of the small hoofs in the wet carriage-tracks
maintained its quick and monotonous beat on the ear; the silent driver
kept his eye on the traces, and “reminded” now and then with but the
weight of his slight lash a lagging wheeler or leader, and the
complicated but compact machine of which the square foot that I occupied
had been so nicely calculated, sped on its ten miles in the hour with
the steadfastness of a star in its orbit, and as independent of clouds
and rain.
“_Est ce que monsieur parle François?_” asked at the end of the first
stage my right-hand neighbor, a little gentleman, of whom I had hitherto
only remarked that he was holding on to the iron railing of the seat
with great tenacity.
Having admitted in an evil moment that I had been in France, I was first
distinctly made to understand that my neighbor was on his way to
Birmingham purely for pleasure, and without the most distant object of
business—a point on which he insisted so long, and recurred to so
often, that he succeeded at last in persuading me that he was doubtless
a candidate for the French clerkship of some exporter of buttons. After
listening to an amusing dissertation on the rashness of committing one’s
life to an English stage-coach with scarce room enough for the perch of
a parrot, and a velocity so _diablement dangereux_, I tired of my
Frenchman; and, since I could not have my own thoughts in peace, opened
a conversation with a straw-bonnet and shawl on my left—the property, I
soon discovered, of a very smart lady’s maid, very indignant at having
been made to change places with Master George, who, with his mother and
her mistress, were dry and comfortable inside. She “would not have
minded the outside place,” she said, “for there were sometimes very
agreeable gentlemen on the outside, _very!_—but she had been promised
to go inside, and had dressed accordingly; and it was very provoking to
spoil a nice new shawl and best bonnet, just because a great school-boy,
that had nothing on that would damage, chose not to ride in the rain.”
“Very provoking, indeed!” I responded, letting in the rain upon myself
unconsciously, in extending my umbrella forward so as to protect her on
the side of the wind.
“_We_ should have gone down in the carriage, sir,” she continued, edging
a little closer to get the full advantage of my umbrella; “but John the
coachman has got the _hinfluenzy_, and my missis wo’n’t be driven by no
other coachman; she’s as obstinate as a mule, sir. And that isn’t all I
could tell, sir; but I scorns to hurt the character of one of my own
sex.” And the pretty abigail pursed up her red lips, and looked
determined not to destroy her mistress’s character—unless particularly
requested.
I detest what may be called a proper road-book—even would it be less
absurd than it is to write one on a country so well conned as England.
I shall say nothing, therefore, of Marlow, which looked the picture of
rural loveliness though seen through fog, nor of Oxford, of which all I
remember is that I dined there with my teeth chattering, and my knees
saturated with rain. All England is lovely to the wild eye of an
American unused to high cultivation; and though my enthusiasm was
somewhat damp, I arrived at the bridge over the Avon, blessing England
sufficiently for its beauty, and much more for the speed of its coaches.
The Avon, above and below the bridge, ran brightly along between low
banks, half sward, half meadow; and on the other side lay the native
town of the immortal wool-comber—a gay cheerful-looking village,
narrowing in the centre to a closely-built street, across which swung,
broad and fair, the sign of the “Red horse.” More ambitious hotels lay
beyond, and broader streets; but while Washington Irving is remembered
(and that will be while the language lasts,) the quiet inn in which the
great Geoffrey thought and wrote of Shakspere will be the altar of the
pilgrim’s devotions.
My baggage was set down, the coachman and guard tipped their hats for a
shilling, and, chilled to the bone, I raised my hat instinctively to the
courtesy of a slender gentlewoman in black, who, by the keys at her
girdle should be the landlady. Having expected to see a rosy little Mrs.
Boniface, with a brown pinafore and worsted mittens, I made up my mind
at once that the inn had changed mistresses. On the right of the
old-fashioned entrance blazed cheerily the kitchen fire, and with my
enthusiasm rather dashed by my disappointment, I stepped in to make
friends with the cook, and get a little warmth and information.
“So your old mistress is dead, Mrs. Cook,” said I rubbing my hands with
great satisfaction between the fire and a well-roasted chicken.
“Lauk, sir, no, she isn’t!” answered the rosy lass, pointing with a
dredging-box to the same respectable lady in black who was just entering
to look after me.
“I beg pardon, sir,” she said, dropping a courtesy; “but are you the
gentleman expected by Sir Charles ——?”
“Yes, madam. And can you tell me anything of your predecessor who had
the inn in the days of Washington Irving?”
She dropped another courtesy and drew up her thin person to its full
height, while a smile of gratified vanity stole out at the corners of
her mouth.
“The carriage has been waiting some time for you, sir,” she said, with a
softer tone than that in which she had hitherto addressed me; “and you
will hardly be at C—— in time for dinner. You will be coming over
to-morrow or the day after, perhaps, sir; and then, if you would honor
my little room by taking a cup of tea with me, I should be pleased to
tell you all about it, sir.”
I remembered a promise I had nearly forgotten, that I would reserve my
visit to Stratford till I could be accompanied by Miss Jane Porter, whom
I was to have the honor of meeting at my place of destination; and
promising an early acceptance of the kind landlady’s invitation, I
hurried on to my appointment over the fertile hills of Warwickshire.
I was established in one of those old Elizabethan country-houses, which,
with their vast parks, their self-sufficing resources of subsistence and
company, and the absolute deference shown on all sides to the lord of
the manor, give one the impression rather of a little kingdom with a
castle in its heart, than of an abode for a gentleman subject. The house
itself, (called, like most houses of this size and consequence in
Warwickshire, a “Court,”) was a Gothic, half-castellated square, with
four round towers, and innumerable embrasures and windows; two wings in
front, probably more modern than the body of the house, and again two
long wings extending to the rear, at right angles, and enclosing a
flowery and formal parterre. There had been a trench about it, now
filled up, and at a short distance from the house stood a polyangular
and massive structure, well calculated for defence, and intended as a
stronghold for the retreat of the family and tenants in more troubled
times. One of these rear wings enclosed a catholic chapel, for the
worship of the Baronet and those of his tenants who professed the same
faith; while on the northern side, between the house and the garden,
stood a large protestant stone church, with a turret and spire, both
chapel and church, with their clergyman and priest, dependant on the
estate, and equally favored by the liberal and high-minded baronet. The
tenantry formed two considerable congregations, and lived and worshipped
side by side, with the most perfect harmony—an instance of _real_
Christianity, in my opinion, which the angels of heaven might come down
to see. A lovely rural grave-yard for the lord and tenants, and a
secluded lake below the garden, in which hundreds of wild ducks swam and
screamed unmolested, completed the outward features of C—— court.
There are noble houses in England, with a door communicating from the
dining room to the stables, that the master and his friends may see
their favorites, after dinner, without exposure to the weather. In the
place of this rather _bizarre_ luxury, the oak-panelled and spacious
dining-hall of C—— is on a level with the organ loft of the chapel,
and when the cloth is removed, the large door between is thrown open,
and the noble instrument pours the rich and thrilling music of vespers
through the rooms. When the service is concluded, and the lights on the
altar extinguished, the blind organist (an accomplished musician, and a
tenant on the estate) continues his voluntaries in the dark until the
hall-door informs him of the retreat of the company to the drawing-room.
There is not only refinement and luxury in this beautiful arrangement,
but food for the soul and heart.
I chose my room from among the endless vacant but equally luxurious
chambers of the rambling old house; my preference solely directed by the
portrait of a nun, one of the family in ages gone by—a picture full of
melancholy beauty, which hung opposite the window. The face was
distinguished by all that in England marks the gentlewoman of ancient
and pure descent; and while it was a woman with the more tender
qualities of her sex breathing through her features, it was still a
lofty and sainted sister, true to her cross, and sincere in her vows and
seclusion. It was the work of a master, probably Vandyke, and a picture
in which the most solitary man would find company and communion. On the
other walls, and in most of the other rooms and corridors, were
distributed portraits of the gentlemen and soldiers of the family, most
of them bearing some resemblance to the nun, but differing, as brothers
in those wild times may be supposed to have differed from the gentle
creatures of the same blood, nursed in the privacy of peace.