Why should the proud stomach of American travel, much tossed in the
transatlantic voyage, so instantly have itself carried from Liverpool
to any point where trains will convey it? Liverpool is most worthy to be
seen and known, and no one who looks up from the bacon and eggs of his
first hotel breakfast after landing, and finds himself confronted by the
coal-smoked Greek architecture of St. George’s Hall, can deny that it is
of a singularly noble presence. The city has moments of failing in the
promise of this classic edifice, but every now and then it reverts to
it, and reminds the traveller that he is in a great modern metropolis of
commerce by many other noble edifices.
I
Liverpool does not remind him of this so much as the good and true
Baedeker professes, in the dockside run on the overhead railway (as the
place unambitiously calls its elevated road); but then, as I noted in my
account of Southampton, docks have a fancy of taking themselves in,
and eluding the tourist eye, and even when they “flank the Mersey for a
distance of 6-7 M.” they do not respond to American curiosity so frankly
as could be wished. They are like other English things in that, however,
and it must be said for them that when apparent they are sometimes
unimpressive. From my own note-book, indeed, I find that I pretended to
think them “wonderful and almost endless,” and so I dare say they
are. But they formed only a very perfunctory interest of our day at
Liverpool, where we had come to meet, not to take, a steamer.
Our run from London, in the heart of June, was very quick and pleasant,
through a neat country and many tidy towns. In the meadows the elms
seemed to droop like our own rather than to hold themselves oakenly
upright like the English; the cattle stood about in the yellow
buttercups, knee-deep, white American daisies, and red clover, and among
the sheep we had our choice of shorn and unshorn; they were equally
abundant. Some of the blossomy May was left yet on the hawthorns, and
over all the sky hovered, with pale-white clouds in pale-blue spaces
of air like an inverted lake of bonnyclabber. We stopped the night at
Chester, and the next evening, in the full daylight of 7.40, we pushed
on to Liverpool, over lovely levels, with a ground swell like that of
Kansas plains, under a sunset drying its tears and at last radiantly
smiling.