CHAPTER I

AN ACCOUNT OF THE ENGLISH COLONY IN NEW SOUTH WALES:

WITH REMARKS ON THE DISPOSITIONS, CUSTOMS, MANNERS, etc.

OF THE NATIVE INHABITANTS OF THAT COUNTRY.

TO WHICH ARE ADDED, SOME PARTICULARS OF NEW ZEALAND; COMPILED,

BY PERMISSION, FROM THE MSS. OF LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR KING.

By DAVID COLLINS, Esquire,

LATE JUDGE ADVOCATE AND SECRETARY OF THE COLONY.

ILLUSTRATED BY ENGRAVINGS.

VOLUME I.

Many might be saved who now suffer an ignominious and an early death;

and many might be so much purified in the furnace of punishment and

adversity, as to become the ornaments of that society of which they had

formerly been the bane. The vices of mankind must frequently require the

severity of justice; but a wise State will direct that severity to the

greatest moral and political good.

ANON.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR T. CADELL JUN. AND W. DAVIES, IN THE STRAND.

1798.

TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THOMAS LORD VISCOUNT SYDNEY

One of His Majesty's Most Honourable Privy Council,

Chief Justice in Eyre South of Trent,

A Governor of the Charter-house,

and a Vice-President of the Asylum

MY LORD,

The honour that your Lordship has done me, in permitting this volume to

go forth into the world under the sanction of your name, demands my

warmest acknowledgments. I can only wish that the Work had been more

worthy of its patron.

The originator of the plan of colonization for New South Wales was too

conspicuous a character to be overlooked by the narrator of its rise and

progress. The benevolent mind of your Lordship led you to conceive this

method of redeeming many lives that might be forfeit to the offended

laws; but which, being preserved, under salutary regulations, might

afterward become useful to society: and to your patriotism the plan

presented a prospect of commercial and political advantage. The following

pages will, it is hoped, serve to evince, with how much wisdom the

measure was suggested and conducted; with what beneficial effects its

progress has been attended; and what future benefits the parent country

may with confidence anticipate.

That your Lordship may long live to enjoy those grateful reflections

which a sense of having advanced the public welfare must be presumed to

excite; and that our most gracious sovereign, the father of his people,

may long, very long reign over these kingdoms, and continue to be served

by statesmen of tried talents and integrity, is the earnest prayer of,

MY LORD,

Your Lordship's much obliged,

and most devoted servant,

DAVID COLLINS

Poland Street,

May 25, 1798

* * * * *

PREFACE

To the public the following work is with respectful deference submitted

by its author, who trusts that it will be found to comprise much

information interesting in its nature, and that has not been anticipated

by any former productions on the same subject. If he should be thought to

have been sometimes too minute in his detail, he hopes it will be

considered, that the transactions here recorded were penned as they

occurred, with the feelings that at the moment they naturally excited in

the mind; and that circumstances which, to an indifferent reader, may

appear trivial, to a spectator and participant seem often of importance.

To the design of this work (which was, to furnish a complete record of

the transactions of the colony from its foundation), accuracy and a

degree of minuteness in detail seemed essential; and on reviewing his

manuscript, the author saw little that, consistently with his plan, he

could persuade himself to suppress.

For his labours he claims no credit beyond what may be due to the

strictest fidelity in his narrative. It was not a romance that he had to

give to the world; nor has he gone out of the track that actual

circumstances prepared for him, to furnish food for sickly minds, by

fictitious relations of adventures that never happened, but which are by

a certain description of readers perused with avidity, and not

unfrequently considered as the only passages deserving of notice.

Though to a work of this nature a style ornamental and luxuriant would

have been evidently inapplicable, yet the author has not been wholly

inattentive to this particular, but has endeavoured to temper the dry and

formal manner of the mere journalist, with something of the historian's

ease. Long sequestered, however, from literary society, and from

convenient access to books, he had no other models than those which

memory could supply; and therefore does not presume to think his volume

proof against the rigid censor: but to liberal criticism he submits, with

the confidence of a man conscious of having neither negligence nor

presumption to impute to himself. He wrote to beguile the tedium of many

a heavy hour; and when he wrote looked not beyond the satisfaction which

at some future period might be afforded to a few friends, as well as to

his own mind, by a review of those hardships which in common with his

colleagues he had endured and overcome; hardships which in some degree he

supposes to be inseparable from the first establishment of any colony;

but to which, from the peculiar circumstances and description of the

settlers in this instance, were attached additional difficulties.

In the progress of his not unpleasing task, the author began to think

that his labours might prove interesting beyond the small circle of his

private friends; that some account of the gradual reformation of such

flagitious characters as had by many (and those not illiberal) persons in

this country been considered as past the probability of amendment, might

be not unacceptable to the benevolent part of mankind, but might even

tend to cherish the seeds of virtue, and to open new streams from the

pure fountain of mercy*.

[* "It often happens," says Dr. Johnson, "that in the loose and

thoughtless and dissipated, there is a secret radical worth, which may

shoot out by proper cultivation; that the spark of heaven, though dimmed

and obstructed, is yet not extinguished, but may, by the breath of

counsel and exhortation, be kindled into flame . . .

"Let none too hastily conclude that all goodness is lost, though it may

for a time be clouded and overwhelmed; for most minds are the slaves of

external circumstances, and conform to any hand that undertakes to mould

them; roll down any torrent of custom in which they happen to be caught;

or bend to any importunity that bears hard against them."

_Rambler_, No. 70.]

Nor was he without hope, that through the humble medium of this history,

the untutored savage, emerging from darkness and barbarism, might find

additional friends among the better-informed members of civilized

society.

With these impressions, therefore, he felt it a sort of duty to offer his

book to the world; and should the objects alluded to be in any degree

promoted by it, he shall consider its publication as the most fortunate

circumstance of his life.

Occurrences such as he has had to relate are not often presented to the

public; they do not, indeed, often happen. It is not, perhaps, once in a

century that colonies are established in the most remote parts of the

habitable globe; and it is seldom that men are found existing perfectly

in a state of nature. When such circumstances do occur, curiosity, and

still more laudable sentiments, must be excited. The gratification even

of curiosity alone might have formed a sufficient apology for the author;

but he has seen too much of virtue even among the vicious to be

indifferent to the sufferings, or backward in promoting the felicities of

human nature.

A few words, he hopes, may be allowed him respecting the colony itself,

for which he acknowledges what, he trusts, will be considered as at least

an excusable partiality. He bore his share of the distresses and

calamities which it suffered; and at his departure, in the ninth year of

its growth, with pleasure saw it wear an aspect of ease and comfort that

seemed to bid defiance to future difficulties. The hardships which it

sustained were certainly attributable to mischance, not to misconduct.

The Crown was fortunate in the selection of its governors, not less with

respect to the gentlemen who were sent out expressly in that capacity,

than in those on whom the temporary administration occasionally devolved.

Under Governor Hunter, who at present presides there, the resources of

the country and the energies of the colonists will assuredly be called

forth. The intelligence, discretion, and perseverance of that officer

will be zealously applied to discover and fix every local advantage. His

well-known humanity will not fall to secure the savage islander from

injury or mortification; reconcile him to the restraints, and induce him

to participate in the enjoyments, of civilized society; and instruct him

to appreciate justly the blessings of rational freedom, whose salutary

restrictions are not less conducive to individual benefit than to the

general weal.

With respect to the resources of the settlement, there can be little

doubt, that at this moment it is able to support itself in the article of

grain; and the wild stock of cattle to the westward of the Nepean will

soon render it independent on this country in the article of animal food.

As to its utility, beside the circumstance of its freeing the mother

country from the depraved branches of her offspring, in some instances

reforming their dispositions, and in all cases rendering their labour and

talents conducive to the public good, it may prove a valuable nursery to

our East India possessions for soldiers and seamen.

If, beside all this, a whale fishery should be established, another great

benefit may accrue to the parent country from the coast of New South

Wales.

The island, moreover, abounds with fine timber in every respect adapted

to the purposes of ship-building: iron too it possesses in abundance.

Coal has been found there, and some veins of copper; and however

inconsiderable the quantity of these articles that has been hitherto

found, yet the proof of their existence will naturally lead to farther

research, and most probably terminate in complete success.

The flax plant grows spontaneously, and may, with the assistance of

proper implements and other necessaries, be turned to very profitable

account.

The climate is for the most part temperate and healthy; cattle are

prolific; and fruits and culinary vegetables thrive with almost a

tropical luxuriance.

To be brief: Such is the English Colony in New South Wales, for which the

author is anxiously solicitous to obtain the candid consideration of his

countrymen; among whom it has been painful to him to remark a disposition

too prevalent for regarding it with odium and disgust.

London, May 25, 1798

* * * * *

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Section I

Transports hired to carry convicts to Botany Bay

The _Sirius_ and the _Supply_ commissioned

Preparations for sailing

Tonnage of the transports

Persons left behind

Two convicts punished on board the _Sirius_

The _Hyaena_ leaves the Fleet

Arrival of the fleet at Teneriffe

Proceedings at that island

Some particulars respecting the town of Santa Cruz

An excursion made to Laguna

A convict escapes from one of the transports, but is retaken

Proceedings

The fleet leaves Teneriffe, and puts to sea

Section II

Proceed on the voyage

Altitude of the peak of Teneriffe

Pass the isles of Sal, Bonavista, May, and St. Iago

Cross the equator

Progress

Arrive at the Brazils

Transactions at Rio de Janeiro

Some particulars of that town

Sail thence

Passage to the Cape of Good Hope

Transactions there

Some particulars respecting the Cape

Depart for New South Wales

Section III

Proceed on the voyage

Captain Phillip sails onward in the _Supply_, taking with him three of

the transports

Pass the island of St. Paul

Weather, January 1788

The South Cape of New Holland made

The _Sirius_ and her convoy anchor in the harbour of Botany Bay.

CHAPTER I

Arrival of the fleet at Botany Bay

The governor proceeds to Port Jackson, where it is determined to fix the

settlement

Two French ships under M. de la Perouse arrive at Botany Bay

The _Sirius_ and convoy arrive at Port Jackson

Transactions

Disembarkation

Commission and letters patent read

Extent of the territory of New South Wales

Behaviour of the convicts

The criminal court twice assembled

Account of the different courts

The _Supply_ sent with some settlers to Norfolk Island

Transactions

Natives

Weather

CHAPTER II

Broken Bay visited

M. de la Perouse sails

Transactions

The _Supply_ returns

Lord Howe Island discovered

The ships for China sail

Some convicts wounded by the natives

Scurvy

New store-house

Necessary orders and appointments

Excursions into the country

New branch of the harbour into Port Jackson

Sheep

CHAPTER III

Transactions

Transports sail for China

The _Supply_ sails for Lord Howe Island

Return of stock in the colony in May

The _Supply_ returns

Transactions

A convict wounded

Rush-cutters killed by the natives

Governor's excursion

His Majesty's birthday

Behaviour of the convicts

Cattle lost

Natives

Proclamation

Earthquake

Transports sail for England

_Supply_ sails for Norfolk Island

Transactions

Natives

Convicts wounded

CHAPTER IV

Heavy rains

Public works

Sheep stolen

Prince of Wale's birthday

Fish

Imposition of a convict

Natives

Apprehensive of a failure of provisions

Natives

Judicial administration

A convict murdered

CHAPTER V

Settlement of Rose Hill

The _Golden Grove_ returns from Norfolk Island

The storeships sail for England

Transactions

James Daley tried and executed for housebreaking

Botany Bay examined by the governor

A convict found dead in the woods

Christmas Day

A native taken and brought up to the settlement

Weather

Climate

Report of deaths from the departure of the fleet from England to the

31st of December 1788

CHAPTER VI

New Year's Day

Convicts, how employed

Their disposition to idleness and vice

Her Majesty's birthday kept

Natives

Captain Shea dies

Regulations respecting the convicts

Instances of their misconduct

Transactions

The _Supply_ sails for Norfolk Island

Public Works

Natives

Convicts killed

Stores robbed

The _Supply_ returns

Insurrection projected at Norfolk Island

Hurricane there

Transactions at Rose Hill

CHAPTER VII

Neutral Bay

Smallpox among the natives

Captain Hunter in the _Sirius_ returns with supplies from the Cape of

Good Hope

Middleton Island discovered

Danger of wandering in the forests of an unknown country

Convicts

The King's birthday kept

Convicts perform a play

A reinforcement under Lieutenant Cresswell sent to Norfolk Island

Governor Phillip makes an excursion of discovery

Transactions

Hawkesbury River discovered

Progress at Rose Hill

Important papers left behind in England

CHAPTER VIII

Barracks

Stock

Intelligence from Norfolk Island

Police established at the principal settlement

A successful haul of fish

A soldier tried for a rape

Provisions begin to fail

Natives

A launch completed

Rats

Ration reduced to two-thirds

_Sirius_ returns to the Cove

One of her mates lost in the woods

_Supply_ sails for Norfolk Island

Utility of the night watch

A female convict executed for house-breaking

Two natives taken

Serious charge against the assistant commissary satisfactorily cleared up

Lieutenant Dawes's excursion

The _Supply_ returns

Transactions

CHAPTER IX

A convict made a free settler

A pleasing delusion

Extraordinary supply of fish

Caesar's narrative

Another convict wounded by the natives

The _Supply_ arrives from Norfolk Island

A large number of settlers sent thither on board the _Sirius_ and

_Supply_

Heavy rains

Scarcity of provisions increasing in an alarming degree

Lieutenant Maxwell's insanity

News brought of the loss of the _Sirius_

Allowance of provisions still further reduced

The _Supply_ sent to Batavia for relief

Robberies frequent and daring

An old man dies of hunger

Rose Hill

Salt and fishing-lines made

The native escapes

Transactions

CHAPTER X

The _Lady Juliana_ transport arrives from England

_The Guardian_

His Majesty's birthday

Thanksgiving for His Majesty's recovery

The _Justinian_ storeship arrives

Full ration ordered

Three transports arrive

Horrid state of the convicts on board

Sick landed

Instance of sagacity in a dog

A convict drowned

Mortality and number of sick on the 13th

Convicts sent to Rose Hill

A town marked out there

Works in hand at Sydney

Instructions respecting grants of land

Mr. Fergusson drowned

Convicts' claims on the master of the _Neptune_

Transactions

Criminal Court

Whale

CHAPTER XI

Governor Phillip wounded by a native

Intercourse opened with the natives

Great haul of fish

Convicts abscond with a boat

Works

Want of rain

Natives

_Supply_ returns from Batavia

Transactions there

Criminal Courts

James Bloodworth emancipated

Oars found in the woods

A convict brought back in the _Supply_

A boat with five people lost

Public works

A convict wounded by a native

Armed parties sent out to avenge him

A Dutch vessel arrives with supplies from Batavia

Decrease by sickness and casualties in 1790

CHAPTER XII

New Year's Day

A convict drowned

A native killed

Signal colours stolen

_Supply_ sails for Norfolk Island

H. E. Dodd, Superintendant at Rose Hill, dies

Public works

Terms offered for the hire of the Dutch snow to England

The _Supply_ returns

State of Norfolk Island

Fishing-boat overset

Excessive heats

Officers and seamen of the _Sirius_ embark in the snow

_Supply_ sails for Norfolk Island, and the _Waaksamheyd_ for England

William Bryant and other convicts escape from New South Wales

Ruse, a settler, declares that he can maintain himself without assistance

from the public stores

Ration reduced

Orders respecting marriage

Port regulations

Settlers

Public works

CHAPTER XIII

A Musket found by a native

Reports of plans to seize boats

_Supply_ arrives from Norfolk Island

The King's birthday

A canoe destroyed

Its evil effects

Corn sown

Battery begun

One hundred and forty acres inclosed for cattle

The _Mary Ann_ arrives

Two criminal courts held

Ration improved

The _Matilda_ arrives

The _Mary Ann_ sails for Norfolk Island

Settlers

The _Atlantic_ and _Salamander_ arrive

Full ration issued

The _William and Ann_ arrives

Natives

Public works

CHAPTER XIV

The _Salamander_ sails for, and the _Mary Ann_ arrives from Norfolk

Island

Bondel, a native, returns

A seaman, for sinking a canoe, punished

The _Gorgon_ arrives

Commission of emancipation, and public seal

The _Active_ and _Queen_ arrive

Complaints against the master of the _Queen_

_Supply_ ordered home

_Albemarle_ arrives

Mutiny on board

_Britannia_ and _Admiral Barrington_ arrive

Future destination of the transports

The _Atlantic_ and _Queen_ hired

_Atlantic_ sails for Bengal

_Salamander_ returns from Norfolk Island

Transactions

Public works

Suicide

CHAPTER XV

A party of Irish convicts abscond

The _Queen_ sails for Norfolk Island

Whale fishery

Ration altered

The _Supply_ sails for England

Live stock (public) in the colony

Ground in cultivation

Sick

Run of water decreasing

Two transports sail

Whale fishery given up

The _Queen_ arrives from Norfolk Island

The Marines embark in the _Gorgon_ for England

Ration further reduced

Transactions

Convicts who were in the _Guardian_ emancipated

Store finished

Deaths in 1791

CHAPTER XVI

The _Queen_ sails for Norfolk Island

Whalers on their fishing voyages

Convicts missing

Various depredations

Dispensary and bake-house robbed

Proclamation

A criminal court held

Convict executed

Transactions

The _Pitt_ with Lieutenant-Governor Grose arrives

Military duty fixed for Parramatta

Goods selling at Sydney from the _Pitt_

The _Pitt_ ordered to be dispatched to Norfolk Island

Commissions read

Sickness

The _Pitt_ sails

Mr. Burton killed

Stormy weather

Public works

Regulations respecting persons who had served their terms of

transportation

Natives

CHAPTER XVII

Mortality in April

Appearance and state of the convicts

Ration again reduced

Quantity of flour in store

Settlers

State of transactions with the natives

Indian corn stolen

Public works

Average prices of grain, etc at Sydney, and at Parramatta

Mortality decreases

King's birthday

The _Atlantic_ returns from Bengal

Account received of Bryant and his companions

Ration farther reduced

_Atlantic_ cleared

Sheep-pens at Parramatta attempted

Quality of provisions received from Calcutta

The _Brittania_ arrives from England

Ration increased

A convict emancipated

Public works

CHAPTER XVIII

The _Britannia_ cleared

Survey of provisions

Total of cargo received from Bengal

_Atlantic_ sails with provisions for Norfolk Island

Transactions

General behaviour of convicts

Criminal Courts

Prisoner pardoned conditionally

Another acquitted

New barracks begun

Thefts

The _Atlantic_ returns from Norfolk Island

Information

Settlers there discontented

Principal works

The _Britannia_ taken up by the officers of the New South Wales Corps to

procure stock

The _Royal Admiral_ East Indiaman arrives from England

Regulations at the store

A Burglary committed

Criminal Court

The _Britannia_ sails

Shops opened

Bad conduct of some settlers

Oil issued

Slops served

Governor Phillip signifies his intention of returning to England

CHAPTER XIX

A vessel from America arrives

Part of her cargo purchased

George Barrington and others emancipated conditionally

The _Royal Admiral_ sails

Arrival of the _Kitty_ Transport

£1001 received by her

Hospital built at Parramatta

Harvest begun at Toongabbie

Ration increased

The _Philadelphia_ sails for Norfolk Island

State of the cultivation previous to the governor's departure

Settlers

Governor Phillip sails for England

Regulations made by the Lieutenant Governor

The _Hope_, an American Ship, arrives

Her cargo purchased for the colony

The _Chesterfield_ whaler arrives

Grant of land to an officer

Extreme heat and conflagration

Deaths in 1792

Prices of Stock, etc

CHAPTER XX

Order respecting. spirits

Seamen punished

Convicts enlisted into the new corps

Regulations respecting Divine Service

The _Hope_ sails

The _Bellona_ arrives

Cargo damaged

Information

Two women and a child drowned

The _Kitty_ sails for Norfolk Island

Ration

An Officer sent up to inspect the cultivation at Parramatta

A theft committed

Works

Kangaroo Ground opened

Settlers

Liberty Plains

Conditions

_Bellona_ sails

Transactions

The _Shah Hormuzear_ from Calcutta arrives

Information received by her

The Dholl expended

Sickness and death occasioned by the American spirits

The _Chesterfield_ sent to Norfolk Island

Convicts sell their clothing

Two Spanish ships arrive

Information

Epitaph

A Criminal Court

The _Kitty_ returns from Norfolk Island

Fraud at the store at Parramatta

CHAPTER XXI

The Spanish ships sail

The _Chesterfield_ returns from Norfolk Island

A contract entered into for bringing cattle from India to this country

Provisions embarked on board the Bengal ship for Norfolk Island

The _Daedalus_ arrives

Cattle lost

Discoveries by Captain Vancouver

Two natives of New Zealand brought in

Bengal ship sails

Phenomenon in the sky

The hours of labour and ration altered

Lead stolen

Detachment at Parramatta relieved

Accident at that settlement

Lands cleared by officers

Mutiny on board the _Kitty_

The _Kitty_ sails for England

His Majesty's birthday

State of the provision store

The _Britannia_ arrives

Loss of cattle

General account of cattle purchased, lost in the passage, and landed in

New South Wales

Natives

CHAPTER XXII

The _Daedalus_ sails for Nootka

A temporary church founded

Criminal court

The colonial vessel launched

A scheme to take a longboat

Two soldiers desert

Counterfeit dollars in circulation

A soldier punished

The _Boddingtons_ arrives from Cork

General Court Martial held

The _Britannia_ hired and chartered for Bengal

The new church opened

Accident

Provisions in store

Corn purchased from settlers

The _Britannia_ sails for Bengal, and the _Francis_ Schooner for New

Zealand

Irish convicts steal a boat

The _Sugar Cane_ arrives

Intended mutiny on board prevented

Excursion to the westward

Public works

CHAPTER XXIII

The _Boddingtons_ and _Sugar Cane_ sail

A mill erected

Thefts committed

Convicts emancipated

Two persons killed by lightning

The _Fairy_ arrives

Farms sold

Public works

The _Francis_ returns from New Zealand

The _Fairy_ sails

Ration altered

Transactions

Harvest begun

Criminal Court held

A convict executed

Provisions

Mill at Parramatta

Christmas Day

Natives

Convicts

Boats

Grants of land

Settlers

Public works

Expenses how to be calculated

Deaths in 1793

Prices of grain, stock, and labour

CHAPTER XXIV

A murder committed near Parramatta

The _Francis_ sails for Norfolk Island

Provisions

Storm of wind at Parramatta

Crops

A Settlement fixed at the Hawkesbury

Natives

A burglary committed

Samuel Burt emancipated

Death of William Crozier Cook

The watches recovered

The _Francis_ returns from Norfolk Island

Information

The New Zealand natives sent to their own country

Disturbance at Norfolk Island

Court of inquiry at Sydney

The _Francis_ returns to Norfolk Island

Natives troublesome

State of provisions

CHAPTER XXV

Alarming State of the provisions

The _William_ arrives with supplies from England, and the _Arthur_ from

Bengal

The amor patriae natural to man in all parts of the earth

Information

Mr. Bampton

Captain Bligh

_Admiral Barrington_ transport lost

Full ration issued

Ingratitude and just punishment of the settlers

Buffin's corn-mill set to work

Gaming

Honesty of a native

The _Daedalus_ arrives from America

Information

Female inconstancy, and its consequences

The _Arthur_ sails

The _Francis_ returns from Norfolk Island

A boat stolen

Natives killed

A new mill

Disorder in the eyes prevalent

CHAPTER XXVI

The _William_ sails

Cultivation

Excursion in search of a river

A storeship arrives

Captain Bampton

Full ration

The _Britannia_, _Speedy_, and _Halcyon_ arrive

The _Indispensable_ and _Halcyon_ sail

The _Fanny_ arrives from Bombay

Information

Two convicts executed

The _Hope_ sails

CHAPTER XXVII

The _Speedy_ sails and returns

Excursion to the western mountains

The _Francis_ returns from Norfolk Island

Corn bills not paid

The _Britannia_ sails for the Cape, and the _Speedy_ on her fishing

voyage

Notification respecting the corn bills

The _Resolution_ and _Salamander_ arrive from England

Irish prisoners troublesome

Gales of wind

Natives

_Daedalus_ sails for Norfolk Island

Emancipations

_The Fancy_ sails

A death

Bevan executed

A settler murdered at Parramatta

The _Mercury_ arrives

Spanish ships

Emancipation

Settlers and natives

Civil Court

The _Surprize_ arrives

Deaths

_Resolution_ and _Salamander_ sail

Transactions

The _Daedalus_ returns from Norfolk Island

The _Mercury_ sails for America

The Lieutenant-Governor leaves the Settlement

The _Daedalus_ sails for England, and the _Surprize_ for Bengal

The Experiment arrives

Captain Paterson assumes the government _pro tempore_

Ration

Deaths in 1794

CHAPTER XXVIII

Gangs sent to till the public grounds

The _Francis_ sails

Regulations for the Hawkesbury

Natives

Works

Weather

Deaths

Produce at the river

Transactions there

Natives

The _Francis_ arrives from the Cape

The _Fancy_ from New Zealand

Information

The _Experiment_ sails for India

A native killed

Weather

Wheat

Criminal Court

Ration reduced

The _Britannia_ hired to procure provisions

Natives at the Hawkesbury

The _Endeavour_ arrives with cattle from Bombay

Deaths

Returns of ground sown with wheat

The _Britannia_ sails for India

The _Fancy_ for Norfolk Island

Convicts

Casualties

CHAPTER XXIX

Ration

A Criminal and a Civil Court held

Circumstances of the death of Francis T. Daveney

Salt made

Wilson, Knight, and the natives

The new mill

_Providence_ arrives from England

Four convicts brought from Port Stephens

Public labour

Storm

The _Fancy_ arrives from Norfolk Island

The _Supply_ and _Reliance_ arrive

Governor Hunter's commission read

Transactions

The India ships sail

Another arrival from England

Military promotions

Colonial regulations

The _Providence_, _Supply_, and _Young William_ sail

The _Sovereign_ storeship arrives from England

Criminal court held

Convict executed

Printing-press employed

Ration

Information from Norfolk Island

The Cattle lost in 1788 discovered

Transactions

Bennillong's Conduct after his return from England

Civil Court held

Harvest

Regulations

Natives

Meteorological phenomenon at the Hawkesbury

Mr. Barrow's death

Deaths in 1795

CHAPTER XXX

The _Arthur_ arrives from India

_Francis_ from Norfolk Island

A playhouse opened

Her Majesty's birthday kept

Stills destroyed

_Ceres_ storeship arrives

and _Experiment_ from India

Ship _Otter_ from America

Natives

Harvest got in

Deaths

A hut demolished by the military

A Transport arrives with prisoners from Ireland

A criminal court held

Caesar shot

General court martial

_Otter_ takes away Mr. Muir

_Abigail_ from America arrives

A forgery committed

Works

The _Reliance_

Particulars respecting Mr. Bampton, and of the fate of Captain Hill and

Mr. Carter

A Schooner arrives from Duskey-Bay

Crops bad

Robberies committed

_Supply_ for Norfolk Island

Natives

Bennillong

_Cornwallis_ sails

Gerald and Skirving die

CHAPTER XXXI

Slops served

Orders

Licences granted

The _Supply_ returns from Norfolk Island

The _Susan_ from North America and the _Indispensable_ from England

A Criminal and Civil Court held

Sick

Thefts committed

The _Britannia_ arrives from Bengal

Mr. Raven's opinion as to the time of making a passage to India

A Civil Court

The _Cornwallis_ and _Experiment_ sail for India

Caution to masters of ships

A Wind-mill begun

Thefts committed

State of the settlers

The Governor goes to Mount Hunter

Regulations

Public works

Deaths

CHAPTER XXXII

Two men killed; consequent regulations

The _Britannia_ hired to proceed to England

Report of the natives

The _Francis_ arrives from Norfolk Island

Public works

Deaths

A criminal court assembled

A settler executed for murder

The _Susan_ sails

A civil court held

An American ship arrives from Boston

A long-boat lost

Deaths

Weather

A temporary church opened at Parramatta

Appointments

The _Supply_ sails for Norfolk Island and the Cape

Account of stock

Land in cultivation, and numbers in the colony

A murder committed

_Britannia_ sails for England

General observations

CONCLUSION

Comprising particulars of the _Britannia's_ voyage to England; with

remarks on the state of Norfolk Island, and some account of New Zealand.

Particulars of the state of Norfolk Island to the time when the ships

left it:

Court of Judicature

Number of Inhabitants

Male Convicts

State of Cultivation

Appropriation of the Land

Statement of the Stock belonging to Government and individuals on the

18th October 1796

Hours of Labour

Ordinary Price of Labour

Average Prices of Provisions raised on the Island

Account of Grain raised on Norfolk Island, from the 6th of March 1788

(when it was first settled) to October 1796

Account of Births and Deaths from November 12th, 1791, to September 31st,

1796

State of the Flax Manufactory

An Account of New Zealand and its inhabitants

A Short Vocabulary of the New Zealand Language

APPENDICES

General Remarks:

Government and Religion

Stature and Appearance

Habitations

Mode of Living

Courtship and Marriage

Customs and Manner

Superstition

Diseases

Property

Dispositions

Funeral Ceremonies

Language

POSTSCRIPT

LIST OF PLATES

Chart of the three harbours of Botany Bay, Port Jackson, and Broken Bay,

showing the cultivated grounds in and about the different settlements,

with the course of the Rivers Hawkesbury and Nepean, and the situation

of the wild cattle to the westward of the last-mentioned river.

View of the Governor's house at Rose Hill in the township of Parramatta

By water to Parramatta, with a distant view of the western mountains

Eastern view of Sydney

Western view of Sydney Cove

Direct south view of Sydney

South-east view in Sydney, including the church, etc.

North view of Sydney Cove

Baker's Farm on the banks of the river

Western view of Toongabbie

Portraits of Ben-nil-long, Wo-lar-ra-bar-ray, Wo-gul-trow-el Boin-ba,

and Bun-de-bun-da

The Brick Field, or High Road to Parramatta

View of Sydney in Norfolk Island

Facsimile of a chart of New Zealand, drawn by Too-gee

Saunderson's Farm

Yoo-long Erah-ba-diang, No. 1

Ditto No. 2

Ditto No. 3

Ditto No. 4

Ditto No. 5

Ditto No. 6

Ditto No. 7

Ditto No. 8

Ceremony of burning a corpse

* * * * *

INTRODUCTION

A VOYAGE TO NEW SOUTH WALES

SECTION I

Transports hired to carry convicts to Botany Bay

The _Sirius_ and the _Supply_ commissioned

Preparations for sailing

Tonnage of the transports

Persons left behind

Two convicts punished on board the _Sirius_

The _Hyaena_ leaves the Fleet

Arrival of the fleet at Teneriffe

Proceedings at that island

Some particulars respecting the town of Santa Cruz

An excursion made to Laguna

A convict escapes from one of the transports, but is retaken

Proceedings

The fleet leaves Teneriffe, and puts to sea

1786.]

The Commissioners of his Majesty's Navy, near the end of the

year 1786, advertised for a certain number of vessels to be taken up for the

purpose of conveying between seven and eight hundred male and female felons

to Botany Bay in New South Wales, on the eastern coast of New Holland;

whither it had been determined by Government to transport them, after

having sought in vain upon the African coast for a situation possessing

the requisites for the establishment of a colony.

The following vessels were at length contracted for, and assembled in the

River to fit, and take in stores and provisions, _viz_ the _Alexander_,

_Scarborough_, _Charlotte_, _Lady Penrhyn_, and _Friendship_, as

transports; and the _Fishbourn_, _Golden Grove_, and _Borrowdale_, as

store-ships. The _Prince of Wales_ was afterwards added to the number of

transports, on a representation being made to the Treasury Board that

such an addition was necessary. The transports were immediately prepared

for the reception of the convicts, and the store-ships took on board

provisions for two years, with tools, implements of agriculture, and such

other articles as were considered necessary to a colonial establishment.

October.] On the 24th of October, Captain Arthur Phillip hoisted a

pendant on board his Majesty's ship the _Sirius_ of 20 guns, then lying

at Deptford. This ship was originally called the _Berwick_, and intended

for the East India Company; but having, while on the stocks, met with

some accident by fire, was purchased by Government for a store-ship, and

as such had performed one voyage to America. Her burden was about 520

tons; and being, from her construction, well-calculated for this

expedition, she was taken into the service as a man of war, and with her

capacity changed also her name.

As the government of the intended colony, as well as the command of the

_Sirius_, was given to Captain Phillip, it was thought necessary to

appoint another captain to her, who might command her on any service in

which she might be employed for the colony, while Captain Phillip should

be engaged in his government. For this purpose an order was signed by his

Majesty in Council, directing the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to

appoint John Hunter esquire (then a master and commander) second captain

of the Sirius, with the rank of post. Although this ship mounted only 20

guns, and those but six-pounders, yet on this particular service her

establishment was not confined to what is usual in a ship of that class;

but, with a first and second captain, she had also three lieutenants, a

master, purser, surgeon and two mates, a boatswain, a gunner, and a

subaltern's detachment of marines.

The _Supply_ brig was also put into commission, and the command given to

Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball. This vessel was to accompany the Sirius

as an armed tender; and both ships, having completed their equipment at

Deptford-yard, dropped down on the 10th of December to Long Reach, where

they took in their guns, powder, and other stores.

1787.]

January.] They were here joined by some of the transports, and continued

waiting for orders until the 30th of January 1787, when they sailed for

Spithead; which port, however, they were prevented from reaching, by

heavy and contrary gales of wind, which they continued to experience both

in the Downs and on their passage, until the latter end of the following

month.

One or two of the transports had in the mean time arrived at Portsmouth,

and the _Charlotte_ and _Alexander_ proceeded to Plymouth, where they

were to receive the male and female convicts that were ready for them.

March.] On the 5th of March, the order for their embarkation, together

with that of the detachment of marines provided as an escort, was sent

from the Secretary of State's office, with directions for their

immediately joining the other ships of the expedition at the Motherbank.

This was done accordingly; and, every necessary arrangement having taken

place, the troops intended for the garrison embarked, and the convicts,

male and female, were distributed in the different transports.

May.] On Monday the 7th of May Captain Phillip arrived at Portsmouth, and

took the command of his little fleet, then lying at the Motherbank.

Anxious to depart, and apprehensive that the wind, which had for a

considerable time been blowing from the quarter favourable to his passage

down the Channel, might desert him at the moment when he most wished for

its continuance, he on the Thursday following made the signal to prepare

for sailing. But here a demur arose among the sailors on board the

transports, who refused to proceed to sea unless they should be paid

their wages up to the time of their departure, alleging as a ground for

this refusal, that they were in want of many articles necessary for so

long a voyage, which this money, if paid, would enable them to purchase.

The custom of their employ, however, being against a demand which yet

appeared reasonable, Captain Phillip directed the different masters to

put such of their people as refused to proceed with them to sea, on board

of the _Hyaena_ frigate, and to receive an equal number of her seamen,

who should afterwards be re-exchanged at sea, her captain being directed

to accompany the fleet to a certain distance.

This difficulty being removed, and the ship's companies of the _Sirius_

and the _Supply_ having received the usual advance of two months' wages,

on Saturday the 12th the men of war and some of the transports got under

sail, with a view of dropping down to St. Helen's, and thence proceeding

to sea; but the wind falling short, and proving unfavourable, they

brought up at Spithead for the night, and at day-break next morning the

whole fleet weighed with a fresh breeze, and, having a leading wind,

passed without any accident through the Needles.

The transports were of the following tonnage, and had on board the

undermentioned number of convicts, and other persons, civil and military,

viz

The _Alexander_, of 453 tons, had on board 192 male convicts; 2

lieutenants, 2 sergeants, 2 corporals, 1 drummer, and 29 privates, with 1

assistant surgeon to the colony.

The _Scarborough_, of 418 tons, had on board 205 male convicts; 1

captain, 2 lieutenants, 2 sergeants, 2 corporals, 1 drummer, and 26

privates, with 1 assistant surgeon to the colony.

The _Charlotte_, of 346 tons, had on board 89 male and 20 female

convicts; 1 captain, 2 lieutenants, 2 sergeants, 3 corporals, 1 drummer,

and 35 privates, with the principal surgeon of the colony.

The _Lady Penrhyn_, of 338 tons, had on board 101 female convicts; 1

captain, 2 lieutenants, and 3 privates, with a person acting as a

surgeon's mate.

The _Prince of Wales_, of 334 tons, had on board 2 male and 50 female

convicts; 2 lieutenants, 3 sergeants, 2 corporals, 1 drummer, and 24

privates, with the surveyor-general of the colony.

The _Friendship_, (snow,) of 228 tons, had on board 76 male and 21 female

convicts; 1 captain, 2 lieutenants, 2 sergeants, 3 corporals, 1 drummer,

and 36 privates, with 1 assistant surgeon to the colony.

There were on board, beside these, 28 women, 8 male and 6 female

children, belonging to the soldiers of the detachment, together with 6

male and 7 female children belonging to the convicts.

The _Fishbourn_ store-ship was of 378 tons; the _Borrowdale_ of 272 tons;

and the _Golden Grove_ of 331 tons. On board this last ship was embarked

the chaplain of the colony, with his wife and a servant.

Not only these as store-ships, but the men of war and transports, were

stored in every part with provisions, implements of agriculture, camp

equipage, clothing for the convicts, baggage, etc.

On board of the _Sirius_ were taken, as supernumeraries, the major

commandant of the corps of marines embarked in the transports*, the

adjutant and quarter-master, the judge-advocate of the settlement, and

the commissary; with 1 sergeant, 3 drummers, 7 privates, 4 women, and a

few artificers.

[* This officer was also lieutenant-governor of the colony.]

Proper day and night signals were established by Captain Phillip for the

regulation of his convoy, and every necessary instruction was given to

the masters to guard against separation. On board the transports a

certain number of prisoners were allowed to be upon deck at a time during

the day, the whole being properly secured at night: and as the master of

each ship carrying convicts had indented for their security in a penalty

of forty pounds for every one that might escape, they were instructed

constantly to consult with the commanding marine officer on board the

transports, both as to the number of convicts that were to be suffered to

come on deck during the passage, and the times when such indulgence

should be granted. To the military was left the care of those essential

services, the preservation of their health, the inspection of their

provisions, and the distribution of the sentinels who were to guard them.

Their allowance of provisions during the voyage (two-thirds of the usual

allowance to a seaman in the navy) was contracted for in London*; and Mr.

Zachariah Clark was sent out in one of the transports as the agent

responsible for the due performance of the contract. This allowance was

to be suspended on their arrival at any foreign port, the commissary of

the settlement being then to furnish them with fresh provisions.

[* By William Richards jun. esquire, of Walworth in the county of Surry.]

At our outset we had the mortification to find that two of our convoy

were very heavy sailers, and likely to be the occasion of much delay in

so long a voyage as that in which we had embarked. The _Charlotte_ was on

the first and second day taken in tow by the _Hyaena_, and the _Lady

Penrhyn_ fell considerably astern. As the separation of any of the fleet

was a circumstance to be most sedulously guarded against and prevented,

the _Sirius_ occasionally shortened sail to afford the sternmost ships

time to come up with her; at the close of evening she was put under an

easy sail for the night, during which time she carried, for the guidance

of the whole, a conspicuous light in the main-top.

On the 15th the signal was made for the transports to pass in succession

within hail under the stern of the _Sirius_, when, on inquiry, it

appeared, that the provost-marshal of the settlement (who was to have

taken his passage on board the _Prince of Wales_) was left behind,

together with the third mate of the _Charlotte_ transport, and five men

from the _Fishbourn_ store-ship; the loss of these five persons was

supplied by as many seamen from on board the _Hyaena_.

Light or unfavourable winds prevented our getting clear of the Channel

until the 16th, at which time we had the satisfaction of finding that we

had accomplished it without returning, or putting in at any of the ports

which offered themselves in our way down.

Sunday the 20th was marked by the discovery of a design formed among the

convicts on board the _Scarborough_ transport to mutiny and take

possession of the ship. The information was given by one of the convicts

to the commanding marine officer on board, who, on the lying-to of the

convoy at noon to dispatch Captain De Courcy to England, waited on the

major-commandant on board the _Sirius_, and communicated the particulars

to him and Captain Phillip, who, after some deliberation, directed that

the ringleaders (two in number) should be brought on board the _Sirius_,

there punished, and afterwards secured in the _Prince of Wales_

transport. This was accordingly put in execution, and two dozen lashes

were inflicted by the boatswain's mate of the Sirius on each of the

offenders, who stedfastly denied the existence of any such design as was

imputed to them.

A boat from each of the transports coming on board the _Sirius_ with

letters for England, some additional signals were given to the masters,

with directions to those who had convicts on board to release from their

irons such as might by their behaviour have merited that indulgence; but

with orders to confine them again with additional security on the least

appearance among them of irregularity.

These necessary regulations being adjusted, and the _Hyaena_ sent off

with the commanding officer's letters, the fleet made sail again in the

evening. But it should have been observed, that when the _Hyaena's_ boat

came on board she brought some necessaries for the five men belonging to

her, who had been lent to the _Fishbourn_ store-ship, and who, animated

with a spirit of enterprise, chose rather to remain in her than return in

the frigate to England.

The wind was more favourable to the _Hyaena's_ return to Plymouth (which

port she was directed to make) than to our progress southward, for the

two following days; but it then coming round to the NW, by the 24th we

had reached the latitude of Cape Ortegal.

On the 25th, the signal was made for Lieutenant Shortland, the agent on

board the Alexander, who, at his coming on board, was directed to visit

the several transports, and collect from each a list of the different

trades and occupations of the respective convicts, agreeably to a form

given him for that purpose by Captain Phillip. From this time to the 29th

the wind continued favourable, but blowing exceedingly fresh, and

attended with a heavy rolling sea. The _Supply_ was now directed to make

sail and keep six miles ahead during the day, and two during the night;

and to look out for the land, as it was expected that the fleet would on

the morrow be in the neighbourhood of the Madeira Isles. Accordingly,

soon after day-break the following morning, she made the signal for

seeing land, and at noon we were abreast of the Deserters--certain high

barren rocks so named, to the SSE of the Island of Madeira, and distant

about three leagues.

In the afternoon of the 31st, the _Supply_ ahead again made the signal

for seeing land; and shortly after we were abreast of the ridge of rocks

situated between the Madeira and Canary Isles, called the Salvages.

June.] Our strong trade-wind appeared to have here spent its force, and

we were baffled (as frequently happens in the vicinity of islands) by

light airs or calms. With these and contrary winds our patience was

exercised until the evening of the 2nd of June, when a favourable breeze

sprang up, which continued during that night. At six the next morning the

island of Teneriffe was seen right ahead; and about seven in the evening

the whole fleet came to an anchor in the road of Santa Cruz. The ships

were immediately moored, taking the precaution of buoying their cables

with empty casks, to prevent their being injured by rocks or foul ground,

an inconvenience which had frequently been experienced by navigators in

this road. We found riding here a Spanish packet, an English brig bound

to London, and some smaller vessels.

Captain Phillip designed to have sent an officer forward in the _Supply_,

to announce his arrival to the governor, and to settle as well the hour

of his waiting upon him, as some necessary arrangements respecting fresh

provisions, water, etc.; but as it was growing dark before the fleet

anchored, and night coming on, when business of that nature could not

well be transacted, his visit was postponed until the morning. Before we

came to an anchor the port-officer, or harbour-master, came on board to

make the customary inquiries, accompanied by some Spanish officers and

gentlemen of the town. The ceremony of a salute was on their side

declined, having, as was alleged, but two or three guns mounted for use;

and on our part this omission was readily acquiesced in, as expediting

the service which brought us thither, that of watering the ships, and

taking on board wine and such other refreshments as could be procured; an

object of more consequence than the scrupulous observance of compliment

and etiquette, particularly in the then necessarily crowded state of the

_Sirius_. And as it was afterwards understood, that it was not usual at

this place to return an equal number of guns upon those occasions (a

circumstance always insisted on by his Majesty's ships when they salute),

all

unpleasant discussion of this point was thereby avoided.

Early in the morning the officer was dispatched on shore by Captain

Phillip to learn at what time he might pay his respects to the governor.

The hour of noon was appointed for that ceremony; and accordingly at that

time Captain Phillip, accompanied by the civil, military, and naval

officers under his orders, waited on his excellency the Marquis De

Branceforte, and were received by him with the utmost politeness.

The same reasons which induced Captain Phillip to acquiesce in omitting

to salute on his arrival at this port, operated against his taking public

notice of his Majesty's birthday, which he would otherwise have made a

point of celebrating with every mark of respect.

In the afternoon of this day the marquis sent an officer on board the

_Sirius_, politely offering Captain Phillip whatever assistance he might

stand in need of, and that was in his power to furnish. In the forenoon

of Wednesday the 6th, he came in person on board, attended by several of

his officers, to return Captain Phillip's visit; and afterwards

entertained him, the lieutenant-governor, and other officers of the

settlement, navy, and marines, to the number of ten, at dinner.

The next being the day of Corpus Christi, a day of great religious

observance and ceremony in Roman Catholic countries, no boats were sent

from the transports to the shore. The business of watering, getting off

wine, etc. was suspended by Captain Phillip's directions until the

morrow, to prevent the least interruption being given by any of the

people under his command to the ceremonies and processions which were to

take place. Those officers, whose curiosity led them to observe the

religious proceedings of the day, very prudently attended uncovered, and

knelt, wherever kneeling was required, in the streets, and in their

churches; for, when it was considered that the same great Creator of the

universe was worshipped alike by Protestant and Catholic, what difficulty

could the mind have in divesting their pageant of its tinsel, its

trappings, and its censers, and joining with sincerity in offering the

purest incense, that of a grateful heart?

The Marquis De Branceforte, whom we found in the government of the Canary

Isles, was, we were informed, a major-general in the Spanish service, and

having been three years in the government, only waited, it was said, for

his promotion to the rank of lieutenant-general to return to Spain. The

salary annexed to this government, as we understood, was not quite equal

to fifteen hundred pounds a year. His Excellency's house was situated at

the upper end of the High Street, or Square, as it was called, and was by

no means the best in the town. Mr. Carter (the treasurer) and some

private merchants appearing to reside in larger and much better

habitations. The houses in most of the streets were built with

quadrangles, a gallery running round the interior sides of the first

floor, on which indeed the families chiefly resided, appropriating the

ground floor to offices for domestic purposes. The dwelling-rooms were

not ceiled, but were open to the roof of the building, which rarely

exceeded two stories in height. The upper part of the windows was glazed

with very bad glass; the lower part consisted of close lattice-work,

through the small apertures of which, as we traversed the streets, we had

now and then opportunities of noticing the features of the women, whom

the custom of the country had confined within doors to the lattice, and

in the street to the _roba zilia_, or veil. There were but few objects in

the town sufficiently striking to draw the attention of a stranger.

The landing-place was commodious, being formed by a stone pier, alongside

of which two boats at a time might lie with great ease and take in their

fresh water. It appeared by an inscription in Spanish, that the pier,

having fallen nearly into a state of entire ruin, was indebted for its

present convenience to the liberality of the governor assisted indeed by

some merchants, who superintended and contributed largely to its repair,

which was completed in the year 1786.

At the lower end of the High Street was observed a light and

well-finished monument of white marble, commemorating the marvellous

appearance of the image or bust of Our Lady at Candelaria, to the

Guanches, the aborigines of the country, who were thereby converted to

Christianity 104 years before the preaching of the gospel. The four sides

of the monument bore long inscriptions to this effect, and further

intimated, that it was erected, as an act of piety and cordial devotion,

at the expense of Don Bartholomi di Montagnes, perpetual captain of the

Royal Marine Castle at Candelaria.

In the centre of this street were a stone basin and fountain, from which

the inhabitants were supplied with a stream of very good water, conveyed

from the neighbouring hills by wooden troughs supported on slight posts,

and reaching quite to the town. At the head of the street, near the

government-house, stood a large stone cross, and at a small distance the

church of St Francis, annexed to which was a monastery of Franciscans.

The name of Santa Cruz, the Holy Cross, seemed not inapplicable to this

town, for one or more crucifixes of wood or stone were to be found in

most of the streets, and in others the form of the Cross was painted upon

the walls of the houses. Over the entrances of some houses we observed,

inclosed in small glass-cases, the images and pictures of favourite

saints, with lamps before them, which were lighted in the evenings and on

certain public occasions.

There were not any fortifications upon the commanding ground above the

town; but at each end of the bay stood a fort, between which were erected

three or four circular redoubts, connected with each other by a low

parapet wall, wearing the appearance of a line of communication between

the forts; but very few cannon were to be seen in the works.

On the skirts of the town to the southward we visited a workhouse, which

had been originally designed for the reception of the mendicants with

which the town had been very much infested. About forty families had

subscribed a certain sum to erect this building, and to furnish in a

manner every way convenient and consistent with such a design. But we

were informed that the governor had filled it with the daughters of the

labouring poor, who were here instructed in weaving and spinning, and

were brought up in industry and cleanliness, remaining in the house until

of a marriageable age, when a portion equal to ten pounds sterling was

given with each on the day of her nuptials. This and the other expenses

of the house were furnished by a fund produced from the labour of the

young people, who appeared all in the same dress, plain indeed, but

cleanly and neat.

We heard with surprise, and not without regret, that this institution was

likely to fall to the ground whenever the governor's departure should

take place, the subscribers being dissatisfied with the plan that was

then pursued, alleging that their money had been given to get rid of

their beggars, whose numbers were not diminished; and that the children

were only taught what they could learn from their mothers at home. To us

however, judging without prejudice or partiality, the design of the

institution appeared to have been more effectually answered by striking

at the root of beggary, than if the charity had been merely confined to

objects who would have been found daily to multiply, from the comfortable

provision held out to them by that charity.

A whole-length picture of the governor was hung up in the working-rooms

of the house. He was represented, agreeably to the end that was at first

proposed by the institution, conducting a miserable object to the gate of

the workhouse; a front view of which was also given.

These islands, known to the Romans by the appellation of the Fortunate

Islands, appeared even at this day to deserve that epithet; for the

inhabitants were so fortunate, and the soil so happy, that no venomous

creature had been found to live there; several toads, adders, and other

poisonous reptiles, which had been brought thither for proof, having died

almost immediately after their arrival. The air of this place is very

salubrious; an instance of which was remarked in a gentleman who was said

to be 113 years of age, and who had been happy enough to preserve his

faculties through such a series of time, nearly entire, his memory alone

appearing to be impaired. He came from Waterford in Ireland, and had been

vice-consul at this port ever since the year 1709.

We were informed that a slight shock of an earthquake had been felt here

in the month of February preceding, but was unattended with any eruption

from the Peak, which had not alarmed the island since the year 1703, when

it destroyed the port of Guarrachica.

When the weather was very hot at Santa Cruz, the better sort of the

inhabitants chose cooler residences higher up in the mountains, and these

they could establish in whatever degree of temperature they chose; for in

proportion as they ascended the air became cooler, the famous Peak being

(though a volcano) clad in perpetual snow at its summit. We understood

that the rain fell very heavy at certain seasons; and, on the sides of

the hills which surrounded the town, ridges or low walls of stone were

constructed at short distances, with intervals in them, to break the

force of the water, which otherwise, descending in torrents, would sweep

away every thing before it. Around Santa Cruz, indeed, there appeared but

little vegetation for which to be apprehensive, nor did the prospect

brighten till we came within view of the town named Laguna, an inland

settlement, and once the capital of the island.

For this place a party of us set forward on the 8th, mounted, according

to the custom of the country, upon mules or asses. Our route lay over

hills and mountains of rock continually ascending, until within a short

distance of the town, at which we arrived in between two and three hours

from our leaving Santa Cruz. The road over which we passed was wide, but

for the greatest part of it we travelled over loose stones that bore all

the appearance of cinders; in some places resembling a regular pavement,

and in others our beasts were compelled to scramble as well as they could

over the hard solid rock. We found that Laguna, which was somewhat better

than three English miles distant from Santa Cruz, had formerly been a

populous city; the streets were spacious, and laid out at right angles

with each other.

Here were two monasteries and as many convents. The monastery of St

Augustine we visited; and the good fathers of it with great civility

conducted us to their chapel, though it was preparing for the celebration

of some religious ceremony. We found the altar-piece, on which was

commonly displayed all their finery and taste, neat, light, and elegant.

Few paintings were to be seen; the best were half-lengths of some of the

saints disposed round the pulpit. The form of this building was a

quadrangle, the centre of which was laid out in garden-ground, elegantly

divided into walks, bordered with roses, myrtle, and a variety of other

shrubs and flowers. Hence we proceeded to the retreat of religious

females, but had not chosen the proper time for paying our respects,

which ceremony we therefore deferred until our return in the evening from

an excursion into the adjacent country.

The town of Laguna (a name which signifies Lake or Swamp) is situated

upon a plain surrounded by high hills, and watered by the same means as

Santa Cruz, from a great distance up the country. We noticed, indeed, two

stone-basins, and fountains playing in different streets of the place.

The buildings here had a manifest superiority over those of Santa Cruz,

the streets were far more spacious, and the houses larger. In some of the

former we perceived a regular line of shops filled chiefly with articles

from England. The insalubrity of the air of this place, however, had

driven, and was continuing to drive, such numbers almost daily from its

influence, that it had more the appearance of a deserted than of an

inhabited town, weeds and grass literally growing in the streets. As this

town decreased in its population, Santa Cruz, with some others on the

island, received the benefit; and it must be acknowledged, that although

in quitting Laguna they removed from fertile fields and a romantic

pleasant country, to uncouth and almost barren rocks at Santa Cruz, they

changed a noxious for a very healthy situation.

After viewing the town we remounted our beasts, and proceeded by the side

of the aqueduct into a most delightful country, where we found the people

cheerfully employed in gathering their harvest, and singing their rural

roundelays. The soil produced oats, barley, wheat, and Indian corn; but,

though it bore always two, and sometimes three crops, it was nevertheless

unequal in the whole of its produce to the consumption of the island, the

deficiency being supplied from the Grand Canary.

The sides of the hills were clothed with woods, into one of which we

rode, and arriving at a place named Il Plano de los Vieios, or the Plain

of the Old People, we rested for some little time, and afterward,

crossing through a cultivated valley, ascended the hill on the opposite

side, where we visited the source of the stream that supplied the

aqueduct. Returning thence, we refreshed under the walls of a small

chapel, where a friar occasionally performed mass for the neighbouring

country people. About five o'clock we again entered Laguna, with the

intention of paying our compliments to the sisterhood of the convent

which we had visited in the morning; but whether our party was too

numerous, or from what other cause it proceeded we could not learn, we

were only favoured with the company of four or five of the elder ladies

of the house, who talked very loud and very fast. After purchasing some

few bunches of artificial fruit, we took our leave, and proceeded to

Santa Cruz, cautiously indeed, down the hills and rocks which we had

ascended in the morning, and arrived about sun-set.

An outward-bound Dutch East-Indiaman had anchored in the road since the

morning.

In the evening of this day John Powers, a convict, made his escape from

the _Alexander_ transport, in a small boat which by some accident was

suffered to lie unattended to alongside the ship, with a pair of oars in

it; he was however retaken at day-break the next morning, by the activity

of the master and a party of marines belonging to the transport, and

brought on board the _Sirius_, whence he was removed to his own ship,

with directions for his being heavily ironed.

It appeared that he had at first conceived hopes of being received on

board the Dutch East India ship that arrived in the morning; but, meeting

with a disappointment there, rowed to the southern part of the island,

and concealed himself among the rocks, having first set his boat and oars

adrift, which fortunately led to a discovery of the place he had chosen

for his retreat. The Marquis de Branceforte, on hearing of his escape,

expressed the greatest readiness to assist in his recovery; and Captain

Phillip offered a considerable reward for the same purpose.

Having completed the provisioning and watering of the fleet, and being

again ready to proceed on our voyage, in the afternoon of Saturday the

9th the signal was made from the _Sirius_ for all boats to repair on

board; shortly after which she unmoored, and that night lay at single

anchor.

At daybreak the following morning the whole fleet got under way.

SECTION II

Proceed on the voyage

Altitude of the peak of Teneriffe

Pass the isles of Sal, Bonavista, May, and St. Iago

Cross the equator

Progress

Arrive at the Brazils

Transactions at Rio de Janeiro

Some particulars of that town

Sail thence

Passage to the Cape of Good Hope

Transactions there

Some particulars respecting the Cape

Depart for New South Wales

Light airs had, by the noon of Monday the 11th, carried the fleet midway

between the islands of Teneriffe and the Grand Canary, which latter was

now very distinctly seen. This island wore the same mountainous

appearance as its opposite neighbour Teneriffe, from which it seemed to

be divided by a space of about eleven leagues. Being the capital of the

Canary Islands, the chief bishop had his residence there, and evinced in

his diocese the true spirit of a primitive Christianity, by devoting to

pious and charitable purposes the principal part of a revenue of ten

thousand pounds _per annum_. The chief officers of justice also reside in

this island, before whom all civil causes are removed from Teneriffe and

the other Canary Islands, to be finally decided.

While detained in this spot, we had a very fine view of the Peak of

Teneriffe, lifting its venerable and majestic head above the neighbouring

hills, many of which were also of considerable height, and perhaps rather

diminished the grandeur of the Peak itself, the altitude of which we

understood was 15,396 feet, only 148 yards short of three miles.

On the 14th, the wind began to blow steady from the north-east; and on

the 15th, about eleven in the forenoon, we crossed the tropic of Cancer.

Our weather now became hot and close, and we rolled along through a very

heavy sea, the convoy, however, keeping well together.

At six o'clock in the morning of the 18th, the _Supply_, then ahead of

the fleet, made the signal for seeing land. The weather being very hazy,

we had but an indistinct view of the Isle of Sal, one of the Cape de Verd

islands, bearing NW by W ¼ W distant eight leagues; and at one the same

day, we came in sight of the Island of Bonavista, bearing S.W. distant

two leagues.

Captain Phillip designing to anchor for a few hours at the Island of St.

Iago, to procure water and other refreshments, if he could get in without

any risk or difficulty, in the evening shortened sail, and made the

convoy's signal to close, the run from thence to that island being too

great to admit of our reaching it before dark. The _Supply_ was directed

at the same time to keep ahead with a light during the night; and at

twelve o'clock the night signal was made for the fleet to bring-to.

At six the next morning we made sail again, and soon after passed the

Isle of May, distant about four leagues, bearing NW by W of us. Between

nine and ten o'clock we made the south end of the Island of St. Iago and

at the distance of about two leagues. The wind freshening soon after we

saw the island, at noon we were ranging along the south side of it, with

the signal flying for the convoy to prepare to anchor; but at the moment

of our opening Praya-bay, and preparing to haul round the southern

extremity of it, the fleet was suddenly taken aback, and immediately

after baffled by light airs. We could however perceive, as well by the

colours at the fort, as by those of a Portuguese snow riding in the bay,

that the wind blew directly in upon the shore, which would have rendered

our riding there extremely hazardous; and as it was probable that our

coming to an anchor might not have been effected without some accident

happening to the convoy, Captain Phillip determined to wave, for the

superior consideration of the safety of the fleet under his care, the

advantages he might otherwise have derived from the supply of fresh

provisions and vegetables to be procured there: the breeze therefore

coming off the land, and with sufficient effect to carry us clear of the

island and its variable weather, the anchoring signal was taken in, and

we made sail about two o'clock, the fleet standing away due south. Our

sudden departure from the island, we imagined, must have proved some

disappointment to the inhabitants, as we noticed that a gun was fired at

the fort, shortly after our opening the bay; a signal, it was supposed,

to the country people to bring down their articles for trade and barter.

July.] On the 14th of July the fleet crossed the equator in the 26th

degree of east longitude. Such persons as had never before crossed the

Line were compelled to undergo the ridiculous ceremonies which those who

were privileged were allowed to perform on them.

From this time our weather was pleasant, and we had every appearance of

soon reaching our next port, the Rio de Janeiro, on the Brazil coast.

The track which we had to follow was too beaten to afford us any thing

new or interesting. Captain Phillip proposed making the Island of

Trinidada; but the easterly winds and southerly currents which we had met

with to the northward of the Line having set us so far to the westward

when we crossed it, he gave up all expectation of seeing it, and on the

28th altered his course, steering SW. Trinidada is laid down in 20

degrees 25 minutes south latitude, and 28 degrees 35 minutes west

longitude, while we at noon on the 29th were in 19 degrees 36 minutes

south latitude, and 33 degrees 18 minutes west longitude.

The longitude, when calculated by either altitudes of the sun, for the

time-piece (of Kendal's constructing, which was sent out by the Board of

Longitude), or by the means of several sets of lunar observations, which

were taken by Captain Hunter, Lieutenant Bradley, and Lieutenant Dawes,

was constantly shown to the convoy, for which purpose the signal was made

for the whole to pass under the stern of the _Sirius_, when a board was

set up in some conspicuous part of the ship with the longitude marked on

it to that day at noon.

A good look-out (to make use of the sea-phrase usual on these occasions)

was kept for an island, not very well known or described, which was laid

down in some charts, nearly in the track which we were to cross, but it

was not seen by any of the ships of the fleet; nor was implicit credit

given to its existence, although named (the island of Ascension) and a

latitude and longitude assigned to it. It was conjectured, that the

islands of Martin Vas and Trinidada, lying within about five leagues of

each other, had given rise to the idea of a new island, and that

Ascension was in reality one or other of those islands.

Only two accidents happened during the passage to the Brazils. A seaman

belonging to the _Alexander_ was so unfortunate as to fall overboard, and

could not be recovered--and a female convict on board the _Prince of

Wales_ was so much bruised by the falling of a boat from off the booms

(which, owing to the violent motion of the ship, had got loose) that she

died the following day, notwithstanding the professional skill and humane

attention of the principal surgeon; for as the boat in launching forward

fell upon the neck and crushed the vertebrae and spine, all the aid he

could render her was of no avail.

August.] On Thursday the 2nd of August we had the coast of South America

in sight; and the head-land, named Cape Frio, was distinctly seen before

the evening closed in. Our time-piece had given us notice when to look

out for it, and the land was made precisely to the hour in which it had

taught us to expect it. It was not, however, until the evening of the 4th

that we anchored within the islands at the entrance of the harbour of Rio

de Janeiro.

At day-break the next morning an officer was dispatched from the _Sirius_

to inform the viceroy of the arrival of the fleet; and he most readily

and politely promised us every assistance in his power. A ship bound to

Lisbon passing us about noon, that opportunity was taken of sending an

account to England of the fortunate progress which we had so far made in

the long voyage before us; soon after which the port-officer, or

harbour-master, came on board, and, the seabreeze beginning to blow, the

fleet got under sail. About five in the afternoon we crossed the bar, and

soon after passing the fort of Santa Cruz, saluted it with thirteen guns,

which were returned by an equal number of guns from the fort. While

saluting, it fell calm; but by the assistance of a light breeze which

afterwards sprung up, and the tide of flood, the _Sirius_ was enabled to

reach far enough in by seven o'clock to come to an anchor in the harbour

of Rio de Janeiro; the convoy also anchored as they came up, at the

distance of about a mile and a half from the landing-place, which was

found very commodious.

Our passage from Teneriffe, although rather a long one, had fortunately

been unattended with any disease, and the surgeon reported that we had

brought in only ninety-five persons sick, comprehending every description

of people in the fleet. Many, however, of this number were bending only

under the pressure of age and its attendant infirmities, having no other

complaints among them.

On the morning after our arrival the intendant of the port, with the

usual officers, repaired on board the _Sirius_, requiring the customary

certificates to be given, as to what nation she belonged to, whither

bound, the name of her commander, and his reason for coming into that

port; to all which satisfactory answers were given; and at eleven o'clock

the day following Captain Phillip, accompanied by the officers of the

settlement, civil and military, waited upon Don Louis Vasconcellos, the

viceroy of the Brazils, at his excellency's palace, who received them

with much politeness, readily assenting to a tent being pitched on shore

for the purpose of an observatory; as well as to the drawing of the Seine

in different parts of the bay for fish; only pointing out the

restrictions that would be necessary to prevent the sailors from

straggling into the country. On their taking leave, it was most politely

intimated, that no restraint would be imposed upon the officers, whenever

they came on shore to the town, in which they were free to pass wherever

they desired. A conduct so opposite to that in general observed to

foreigners in this port could by us be attributed only to the great

esteem in which Captain Phillip was held here by all ranks of people

during the time of his commanding a ship in the Portuguese service; for

on being informed of the employment he now held, the viceroy's guard was

directed to pay him the same honours during his stay here, that were paid

to himself as the representative of the crown of Portugal.

The palace of the viceroy stood in the Royal Square, of which, together

with the public prison, the mint, and the opera-house, it formed the

right wing. Of these buildings the opera-house alone was shut up; and we

were informed, that the gloom which was thrown over the court and kingdom

of Portugal by the death of the late king, had extended in full force to

the colonies also; all private and public amusements being since that

time discouraged as much as possible, the viceroy himself setting the

example. Once a week, indeed, his excellency had a music-meeting at the

palace for the entertainment of himself and a few select friends; but

nothing more.

The town of St. Sebastian (or, as it is more commonly named, the town of

Rio de Janeiro, which was in fact the name of the river forming the bay,

on the western side of which was built the town) is large, and was

originally designed to have had an elevated and airy situation, but was,

unfortunately for the inhabitants, erected on low ground along the shore,

and in a recess almost wholly out of the reach of the refreshing

seabreeze, which was observed to be pretty regular in its visitations.

The inhabitants, nevertheless, deemed the air salubrious; and we were

informed that epidemic distempers were rare among them. In their streets,

however, were frequently seen objects of wretchedness and misery,

crawling about with most painful and disgusting swellings in their legs

and privities. The hospital, which had formerly been a Jesuit's convent,

stood near the summit of the hill, in an open situation, at the back of

the town. From the great estimation in which English surgeons were held

here, it would seem that the town is not too well provided in that

respect. Senor Ildefonse, the principal in the place had studied in

England, where he went under the course of surgical education called

walking the hospitals, and might by his practice in this place, which was

considerable, and quite as much as he could attend to, have soon realised

a handsome fortune; but we understood, that to the poor or necessitous

sick he always administered _gratis_.

The township of the Rio de Janeiro was said to contain on the whole not

less than 40,000 people, exclusive of the native Indians and negroes.

These last appear to be very numerous, of a strong robust appearance, and

are brought from the coast of Guinea, forming an extensive article of

commerce. With these people of both sexes the streets were constantly

filled, scarcely any other description of people being seen in them.

Ladies or gentlemen were never seen on foot in the streets during the

day; those whose business or inclination led them out being carried in

close chairs, the pole of which came from the head of the vehicle, and

rested on the shoulders of the chairmen, having, notwithstanding the

gaudiness of the chair itself, a very awkward appearance.

The language spoken here by the white people was that of the mother

country--Portuguese. The ecclesiastics in general could converse in

Latin; and the negro slaves spoke a corrupt mixture of their own tongue

with that of the people of the town. The native Indians retained their

own language, and could be distinctly discerned from the natives of

Guinea, as well by the colour of the skin, as by the hair and the

features of the face. Some few of the military conversed in French; but

this language was in general little used.

The town appeared to be well supplied with water, which was conveyed into

it from a great distance by means of an aqueduct (or carioca) which in

one place having to cross a road or public way was raised upon a double

row of strong lofty arches, forming an object that from the bay, and at

the entrance of the harbour, added considerably to the beauty of the

imagery. From this aqueduct the water was received into stone fountains,

constructed with capacious basins, whither the inhabitants sent their

linen, to have the dirt rather beaten than washed out of it, by slaves.

One of these fountains of a modern construction was finished with great

taste and neatness of execution.

We also observed several large and rich convents in the town. The chief

of these were, the Benedictine and the Carmelite; one dedicated to St.

Anthony, another to Our Lady of Assistance, and another to St. Theresa.

The two last were for the reception of nuns; and of the two, that of St.

Theresa was reported the severest in its religious duties, and the

strictest in its restraints and regulations. The convent D. Ajuda, or of

Assistance, received as pensioners, or boarders, the widows of officers,

and young ladies having lost their parents, who were allowed to remain,

conforming to the rules of the convent, until married, or otherwise

provided for by their friends. There were many inferior convents and

churches, and the whole were under the spiritual direction of a bishop,

whose palace was in the town, a short distance from one of the principal

convents.

Near the carioca, or aqueduct, stood the seminary of St. Joseph, where

the servants of the church received their education, adopting on their

entrance the clerical habit and tonsure. The chapel to the seminary was

neat, and we were conducted by a sensible well-informed father of the

Benedictine Order to a small library belonging to it.

To a stranger nothing could appear more remarkable than the innumerable

religious processions which were to be seen at all hours in this town. At

the close of every day an image of the Virgin was borne in procession

through the principal streets, the attendants arrayed in white surplices,

and bearing in their hands lighted tapers; chanting at the same time

praises to her in Latin. To this, as well as to all other religious

processions, the guards turned out, grounded their arms, kneeled, and

showed the most submissive marks of respect; and the bells of each church

or convent in the vicinity of their progress sounded a peal while they

were passing.

Every church, chapel, or convent, being under the auspices of some

tutelary saint, particular days were set apart as the festival of each,

which were opened with public prayers, and concluded with processions,

music, and fireworks. The church and altars of the particular saint whose

protection was to be solicited were decorated with all the splendor of

superstition*, and illuminated both within and without. During several

hours after dark, on these solemn festivals, the inhabitants might be

seen walking to and from the church, dressed in their best habiliments,

accompanied by their children, and attended by their slaves and their

carriages.

[* We were informed that they never permitted any base metals near their

altars, all their vessels, etc. being of the purest gold or silver.]

An instance was related to us, of the delay that was thrown in the way of

labour by this extravagant parade of public worship, and the strict

observance of saints' days, which, though calculated, no doubt, by the

glare which surrounds the shrine, and decorates the vesture of its

priests, to impress and keep in awe the minds of the lower sort of

people, Indians and slaves, had nevertheless been found to be not without

its evil effects:

A ship from Lisbon, laden chiefly with bale goods, was burnt to the

water's edge, with her whole cargo, and much private property, the fourth

day after her anchoring in the harbour, owing to the intervention of a

sabbath and two saints' days which unfortunately ensued that of her

arrival. All that could be done was, to tow the vessel on shore near the

Island of Cobres, clear of the shipping in the bay, where grounding, she

was totally consumed. One of the passengers, whose whole property was

destroyed with her, came out to fill an high judicial employment, and had

with all his family removed from Lisbon for that purpose, bringing with

him whatever he had valuable in Europe.

At a corner of almost every street in the town we observed a small altar,

dedicated generally to the Virgin, and decorated with curtains and lamps.

Before these altars, at the close of every evening, the negroes assembled

to chant their vespers, kneeling together in long rows in the street. The

policy of thus keeping the minds of so large a body, as that of the black

people in this town, not only in constant employment, but in awe and

subjection, by the almost perpetual exercise of religious worship, was

too obvious to need a comment. In a colony where the servants were more

numerous than the masters, a military, however excellent, ought not to be

the only control; to keep the mind in subjection must be as necessary as

to provide a check on the personal conduct.

The trades-people of the town have adopted a regulation, which must prove

of infinite convenience to strangers, as well as to the inhabitants. We

found the people of one profession or trade dwelling together in one,

two, or as many streets as were necessary for their numbers to occupy.

Thus, for instance, the apothecaries resided in the principal street, or

Rua Direita, as it was named; one or more streets were assigned to the

jewellers; and a whole district appeared to be occupied by the mercers.

By this regulation the labour of traversing from one street to another,

in search of any article which the purchaser might wish to have a choice

of, was avoided*. Most of the articles were from Europe, and were sold at

a high price.

[* The same useful regulation is observed at Aleppo.]

Houses here were built, after the fashion of the mother-country, with a

small wooden balcony over the entrance; but to the eye of one accustomed

to the cheerful appearance of glass windows, a certain sombre cast seemed

to pervade even their best and widest streets, the light being conveyed

through window-frames of close lattice-work. Some of these, indeed, being

decorated on the outside with paint and some gilding, rather improved the

look of the houses to which they belonged.

The winter, we were informed, was the only season in which the

inhabitants could make excursions into the country; for when the sun came

to the southward of the Line, the rain, as they most energetically

assured us, descended for between two and three months rather in seas

than in torrents. At this season they confined themselves to their houses

in the town, only venturing out by the unscorching light of the moon, or

at those intervals when the rains were moderated into showers. But,

though the summer season is so extremely hot, the use of the cold bath,

we found, was wholly unknown to the inhabitants.

The women of the town of Rio de Janeiro, being born within the tropics,

could not be expected to possess the best complexions; but their features

were in general expressive--the eye dark and lively, with a striking

eye-brow. The hair was dark, and nature had favoured them with that

ornament in uncommon profusion: this they mostly wore with powder,

strained to a high point before, and tied in several folds behind. By

their parents they were early bred up to much useful knowledge, and were

generally mistresses of the polite accomplishments of music, singing, and

dancing. Their conversation appeared to be lively, at times breaking out

in sallies of mirth and wit, and at others displaying judgment and good

_sense_. In their dress for making or receiving visits, they chiefly

affected silks and gay colours; but in the mornings, when employed in the

necessary duties of the house, a thin but elegant robe or mantle thrown

over the shoulders was the only upper garment worn. Both males and

females were early taught to dress as men and women; and we had many

opportunities of seeing a hoop on a little Donna of three years of age,

and a bag and a sword on a Senor of six. This appearance was as difficult

to reconcile as that of the saints and virgins in their churches being

decorated with powdered perukes, swords, laced clothes, and full-dressed

suits.

Attentions to the women were perhaps carried farther in this place than

is customary in Europe. To a lady, in the presence of a gentleman, a

servant never was suffered to hand even a glass of water, the gentleman

(with a respect approaching to adoration) performing that office; and

these gallantries appeared to be received as the homage due to their

superior rank in the creation. It was said, indeed, that they were not

disinclined to intrigues, but in public the strictest decorum and

propriety of behaviour was always observed in the women, single as well

as married. At houses where several people of both sexes were met

together, the eye, on entering the room, was instantly hurt, at

perceiving the female part of the company ranged and seated by themselves

on one side, and the gentlemen on the other, an arrangement certainly

unfavourable to private or particular conversation. These daughters of

the sun should, however, neither be censured nor wondered at, if found

indulging in pleasures against which even the constitutions of colder

regions are not proof. If frozen chastity be not always found among the

children of ice and snow, can she be looked for among the inhabitants of

climates where frost was never felt? Yet heartily should she be welcomed

wherever she may be found, and doubly prized if met with unexpectedly.

The mines, the great source of revenue to the crown of Portugal, and in

the government of this place the great cause of jealousy both of

strangers and of the inhabitants, were situated more than a week's

journey hence, except some which had been lately discovered in the

mountains near the town. Sufficient employment was found for the Mint, at

which was struck all the coin that was current here, besides what was

sent to Europe. The diamond-trade had been for some time taken into the

hands and under the inspection of Government; but the jewellers' shops

abounded with topazes, chrysolites, and other curious and precious

stones.

Beside the forts at the entrance of the harbour, there were two others of

considerable force, one at either extremity of the place, constructed on

islands in the bay. On an eminence behind the town, and commanding the

bay, stood the Citadel. The troops in these works were relieved regularly

on the last day of every month, previous to which all the military in the

garrison passed in review before the viceroy in the quadrangle of the

palace. About 250 men with officers in proportion were on duty every day

in the town, distributed into different guards, from which sentinels were

stationed in various parts of the place, who, to keep themselves alert,

challenge and reply to each other every quarter of an hour. In addition

to these sentinels, every regiment and every guard sent parties through

the streets, patrolling the whole night for the preservation of peace and

good order.

An officer from each regiment attended every evening at the palace to

take orders for the following day, which were delivered by the adjutant

of orders, who himself received them directly from the viceroy. At the

palace every transaction in the town was known, and thence, through the

adjutant of orders, the inhabitants received the viceroy's commands and

directions whenever he thought it necessary to guide or regulate their

conduct.

The regiments that came here from Lisbon had been twenty years in the

country, although, on leaving Europe, they were promised to return at the

expiration of the third. They were recruited in the Brazils; and such

officers as might wish to visit Portugal obtained leave of absence on

application to the court, through the viceroy. To each regiment is

attached an officer, who is styled an Auditor, and whose office is to

inquire into all crimes committed by the soldiers of his regiment. If he

sees it necessary, he has power to inflict corporal punishment, or

otherwise, as the offender may in his judgment merit; but his authority

does not extend either to life or limb. For exercising his employment he

is allowed the pay of a captain of infantry.

The barracks for the troops appeared to be commodious, and to be kept in

good order. A small number of cavalry were always on duty, employed in

the antichamber of the palace, or in attending the viceroy either on days

of parade, or in his excursions into the country. A captain's guard of

infantry with a standard mounted every day at the palace.

During our stay in this port all the transports struck their yards and

top-masts, and overhauled their rigging preparatory to our passage to the

Cape of Good Hope. An observatory was erected on the Island of Enchados,

where Lieutenant Dawes, with two young gentlemen from the _Sirius_ as

assistants, went on shore, taking with them the instruments requisite for

ascertaining the exact rate of going of the time-piece; and for making

other necessary observations. Sailmakers were also sent to the island;

and some of the camp-equipage of the settlement was landed to be

inspected and thoroughly aired, with proper guards for its security.

Some propensities to the practice of their old vices manifesting

themselves among the convicts* soon after their arrival in this port had

given them an opportunity, the governor, with the lieutenant-governor,

visited the transports, and informed the prisoners, both male and female,

that in future any misbehaviour on their part should be attended with

severe punishment, while on the other hand propriety of conduct should be

particularly distinguished and rewarded with proportionate indulgence.

[* Counterfeit coin was offered by some of them to a boat which came

alongside one of the transports.]

On the 21st, being the birthday of the prince of Brazil, the _Sirius_, in

compliment to the court of Portugal, displayed a Portuguese flag at her

fore-top-masthead, and, on the saluting of the fort on the Island of

Cobres, saluted also with twenty-one guns. At ten o'clock the same

morning, Captain Phillip, with the principal officers of the settlement

and garrison. went on shore to pay their compliments to the viceroy in

honour of the day, who on this and similar occasions had a court, at

which all the civil and military officers and principal inhabitants of

the town attended to pay their respects to his excellency as the

representative of the sovereign, who received them standing under a

canopy in the presence-chamber of the palace.

September.] Preparations were now making for putting to sea; and on

Saturday the 1st of September, having appointed to sail on the Monday

following, the governor, lieutenant-governor, and other officers, waited

upon and took leave of the viceroy, who expressed himself in the

handsomest terms at their departure.

During their stay in this port of refreshment, the convicts were each

served daily with a pound of rice and a pound and an half of fresh meat

(beef), together with a suitable proportion of vegetables. Great numbers

of oranges were at different times distributed among them, and every

possible care was taken to refresh and put them into a state of health

and condition to resist the attacks of the scurvy, should it make its

appearance in the long passage over the ocean which was yet between them

and New South Wales. The Reverend Mr. Johnson gave also his full share of

attention to their welfare, performing divine service on board two of the

transports every Sunday of their stay in port.

We were unluckily not in season for any other of the fruits of this

country than oranges and bananas; but these were truly delicious, and

amply compensated, both in quantity and quality, for the want of others.

Some few guavas, and a pine-apple or two, were purchased; but we were

informed that their flavour then, and when in perfection, was not to be

compared. Vegetables (which were brought from the opposite shore) were in

great plenty. The beef was small and lean, and sold at about two-pence

halfpenny _per_ pound: mutton was in proportion still smaller, and

poultry dear, but not ill-tasted. The marketplace was contiguous to the

palace.

On the evening of Sunday the 2nd of September, a Portuguese boat, just at

the close of the day, after once or twice rowing round the _Sirius_,

dropped a soldier of the island on board, who, it appeared from his own

account, had been for five or six days absent from his duty, and dreading

perhaps to return, or perhaps wishing to change his situation, requested

that he might be received on board, and permitted to sail to New Holland

with Captain Phillip; who, however, not choosing to comply with his

request, caused him to be immediately conveyed on shore in one of the

ship's boats; but with great humanity permitted him to be landed wherever

he thought he might chance to escape unobserved, and have an opportunity

of returning to his duty.

An officer was this day sent to signify Captain Phillip's intention of

saluting the forts when he took his departure, which would be the

following morning, and presuming that an equal number of guns would be

fired in return. The viceroy answered, that no mark of attention or

respect should on his part be omitted that might testify his esteem for

Captain Phillip, and the high sense he entertained of the decorum

observed by those under his command during their stay in that port.

The land-wind not blowing on Monday morning, all idea of sailing was

given up for that day. In the afternoon the signal was made for

unmooring, and for all boats to cease communication with the shore.

At day-break the following morning the harbour-master came on board the

_Sirius_, and, a light land breeze favouring her departure, took charge

of that ship over the bar; the _Supply_ and convoy getting under sail,

and following her out of the bay. When the _Sirius_ arrived nearly

abreast of the fort of Santa Cruz, it was saluted with twenty-one guns; a

marked compliment paid by the viceroy to Captain Phillip, who immediately

returned it with the like number of guns. Shortly after this the

harbour-master left the ship, taking with him Mr. Morton, the master of

the _Sirius_, who from ill health was obliged to return to England in the

_Diana_, a whaler, which was lying here on our arrival. By this gentleman

were sent the public and private letters of the fleet.

The land-breeze carrying us clear of the islands in the offing, the

_Supply_ was sent to speak a ship that was perceived at some little

distance ahead, and which proved to be a ship from Oporto. By her we

learned that the viceroy was superseded in his government, and it was

imagined that his successor was standing into the harbour in a royal

yacht which we then saw under the land. Toward evening it fell calm, and

the islands and high land were still in sight. The calm continued during

the greatest part of the following day; but toward evening a light and

favourable breeze sprung up, which enabled us to cross the tropic of

Capricorn, and bend our course toward the Cape of Good Hope.

On the night of Friday the 7th we had heavy squalls of rain, thunder, and

lightning. From that time until the 1lth the wind was rather

unfavourable; but shifting to the northward on that day, it blew during

the two following in strong gales, with squalls of heavy rain, attended

with much sea.

These strong gales having, on Friday the 14th, terminated in a calm,

Lieutenant Shortland, the day following, reported to the commanding

officer, that there were eleven soldiers sick on board the _Alexander_

and five or six convicts on board the _Charlotte_. The calm continued

until the 16th, when a favourable breeze sprung up; but those ships of

the fleet which could sail were prevented from making the most of the

fair wind, by the _Lady Penrhyn_ transport and others, which were

inattentive, and did not make sail in proper time.

On the 19th the wind was fresh, and frequently blew in squalls, attended

with rain. In one of these squalls the _Charlotte_ suddenly hove-to, a

convict having fallen overboard; the man, however, was drowned. Our

weather was at this time extremely cold; and the wind, which had for some

days been unfavourable, shifting on the 22nd, we again looked towards the

Cape. At one o'clock the next morning it came on to blow very hard,

accompanied with a great sea; we had nevertheless the satisfaction to

observe that the convoy appeared to get on very well, though some of them

rolled prodigiously. This gale continued with very little variation until

the morning of the 28th, when it moderated for a few hours, and shifted

round to the SE. It now again blew in fresh gales, attended with much

rain and sea. But a calm succeeding all this violence shortly after, on

Sunday morning the 30th the weather was sufficiently clear to admit of

some altitudes being taken for the time-keeper, when our longitude was

found to be 3 degrees 04 minutes.

October.] Thence to the 4th of October both wind and weather were very

uncertain, the wind sometimes blowing in light airs, very little

differing from a calm, with clear skies; at others, in fresh breezes,

with rain. On the 4th, Captain Phillip was informed that thirty of the

convicts on board of the _Charlotte_ were 111; some of them, as it was

feared, dangerously. To render this information still more unpleasant,

the wind was foul during the two succeeding days.

In the forenoon of Saturday the 6th, four seamen of the _Alexander_

transport were sent on board the _Sirius_, under a charge of having

entered into a conspiracy to release some of the prisoners while the ship

should be at the Cape of Good Hope, and of having provided those people

with instruments for breaking into the fore-hold of the ship (which had

been done, and some provisions stolen thereout). The four seamen were

ordered to remain in the _Sirius_, a like number of her people being sent

in lieu of them on board the transport.

On Thursday the 11th, by an altitude of the sun taken that morning, the

fleet was found to be in the longitude of 15 degrees 35 minutes E at

which time there was an unfavourable change of the wind, and the sick on

board the _Charlotte_ were not decreasing in number.

On the next day, as it was judged from the information given by the

time-keeper that we were drawing nigh the land, the _Supply_ was sent

forward to make it; but it was not seen until the following morning.

At noon on the 13th the _Supply_ was sent to instruct the sternmost ships

of the convoy in what direction they should keep to enter the bay; and

about four in the afternoon, the harbour-master getting on board the

_Sirius_, that ship was brought safely to an anchor in Table Bay, the

convoy doing the same before dark; having crossed over from one Continent

to the other, a distance of upwards of eleven hundred leagues, in the

short space of five weeks and four days, fortunately without separation,

or any accident having happened to the fleet.

Immediately on our anchoring, an officer from the _Sirius_ was sent on

shore to the governor, who politely promised us every assistance in his

power; and at sun-rise the next morning the _Sirius_ saluted the garrison

with thirteen guns, which were returned by an equal number from the fort.

From the great uncertainty of always getting readily on shore from the

bay, and the refreshments found at the Cape of Good Hope being so

necessary after, and so well adapted to the fatigues and disorders

consequent on a long voyage, we found it a custom with most strangers on

their arrival to take up their abode in the town, with some one or other

of the inhabitants, who would for two rix-dollars (eight shillings of

English money) or a ducatoon (six shillings English) per week, provide

very good lodgings, and a table amply furnished with the best meats,

vegetables, and fruits which could be procured at the Cape. This custom

was, as far as the nature of our service would admit, complied with by

several officers from the ships; and, on the second day after our

arrival, Captain Phillip, with the principal officers of the navy and

settlement, proceeded to the government-house in the Company's garden,

where they were introduced to Mr. Van de Graaf (the governor, for the

Dutch East India Company, of this place and its dependencies) and by him

politely received.

With a requisition made by Captain Phillip of a certain quantity of flour

and corn, the governor expressed his apprehensions of being unable to

comply, as the Cape had been very lately visited by that worst of

scourges--a famine, which had been most severely felt by every family in

the town, his own not excepted. This was a calamity which the settlement

had never before experienced, and was to be ascribed rather to bad

management of, than any failure in, the late crops. Measures were however

taking to guard, as much as human precaution could guard, against such a

misfortune in future; and magazines were erecting for the reception of

grain on the public account, which had never been found necessary until

fatal experience had suggested them. Captain Phillip's request was to be

laid before the Council, without whose concurrence in such a business the

governor could not act, and an answer was promised with all convenient

dispatch. This answer, however, did not arrive until the 23rd, when

Captain Phillip was informed that every article which he had demanded was

ordered to be furnished.

November.] In the meantime the ships of the fleet had struck their yards

and topmasts (a precaution always necessary here to guard against the

violence of the south-east wind, which had been often known to drive

ships out of the bay) and began filling their water. On board of the

_Sirius_ and some of the transports, the carpenters were employed in

fitting up stalls for the reception of the cattle that was to be taken

hence as stock for the intended colony at New South Wales. These were not

ready until the 8th of the next month, November, on which day, 1 bull, 1

bull-calf, 7 cows, 1 stallion, 3 mares, and 3 colts, together with as

great a number of rams, ewes, goats, boars, and breeding sows, as room

could be provided for, were embarked in the different ships, the bulls

and cows on board the _Sirius_, the horses on board the _Lady Penrhyn_;

the remainder were put into the _Fishbourn_ store-ship and _Friendship_

transport.

Shortly after our arrival in the bay, a soldier belonging to the Swiss

regiment of Muron, quartered here, swam off from his post and came on

board one of the transports, requesting to be permitted to proceed in her

to New South Wales; but, as an agreement had been mutually entered into

between the Dutch and English commanders, that deserters in the service

of, or subjects of either nation, should be given up, Captain Phillip

sent him on shore, previously obtaining a promise of his pardon from the

regiment.

On the 9th the watering of the fleet being completed, corn and hay for

the stock, and flour, wine, and spirits for the settlement, being all on

board, preparations were made for putting to sea, and on the 10th the

signal was made to unmoor.

The convicts while in this port had been served, men and women, with one

pound and an half of soft bread each _per diem_; a pound of fresh beef,

or mutton, and three quarters of a pound for each child, together with a

liberal allowance of vegetables.

While in this harbour, as at Rio de Janeiro, Mr. Johnson, the chaplain,

preached on board two of the transports every Sunday; and we had the

satisfaction to see the prisoners all wear the appearance of perfect

health on their being about to quit this port, the last whereat any

refreshment was to be expected before their arrival in New South Wales.

As it was earnestly wished to introduce the fruits of the Cape into the

new settlement, Captain Phillip was ably assisted in his endeavours to

procure the rarest and the best of every species, both in plant and seed,

by Mr. Mason, the king's botanist, whom we were so fortunate as to meet

with here, as well as by Colonel Gordon, the commander in chief of the

troops at this place; a gentleman whose thirst for natural knowledge

amply qualified him to be of service to us, not only in procuring a great

variety of the best seeds and plants, but in pointing out the culture,

the soil, and the proper time of introducing them into the ground.

The following plants and seeds were procured here and at Rio de Janeiro:

AT RIO DE JANEIRO

Coffee--both seed and plant

Cocoa-in the nut

Cotton-seed

Banana-plant

Oranges--various sorts, seed and plant

Lemon--seed and plant

Guava--seed

Tamarind

Prickly pear-plant, with the cochineal on it

Eugenia, or Pomme Rose--a plant bearing a fruit in shape like an apple,

and having the flavour and odour of a rose

Ipecacuana--three sorts

Jalap

AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE

The Fig-tree

Bamboo

Spanish Reed

Sugar Cane

Vines of various sorts

Quince

Apple

Pear

Strawberry

Oak

Myrtle

To these must be added all sorts of grain, as Rice, Wheat, Barley,

Indian corn, etc. for seed, which were purchased to supply whatever

might be found damaged of these articles that were taken on board

in England.

During our stay here, the Ranger packet, _Captain Buchanan_, arrived

after a passage of twelve weeks from Falmouth, bound to Bengal. She

sailed again immediately. One officer alone of our fleet was fortunate

enough to receive letters by her from his connexions in England.

At the time of our arrival the inhabitants of this agreeable town had

scarcely recovered from the consternation into which they had been thrown

by one of the black people called Malays, with whom the place abounded;

and who, taking offence at the governor for not returning him to Batavia

(where, it seemed, he was of consequence among his own countrymen, and

whence he had been sent to the Cape as a punishment for some offence),

worked himself up to frenzy by the effect of opium, and, arming himself

with variety of weapons, rushed forth in the dusk of the evening, killing

or maiming indiscriminately all who were so unfortunate as to be in his

route, women alone excepted. He stabbed the sentinel at the gate of the

Company's gardens, and placed himself at his post, waiting some time in

expectation of the governor's appearance, who narrowly escaped the fate

intended for him, by its falling on another person accidentally passing

that way. On being pursued, he fled with incredible swiftness to the

Table Mountain at the back of the town, whence this single miscreant,

still animated by the effect of the opium, for two days resisted and

defied every force that was sent against him. The alarm and terror into

which the town was thrown were inconceivable; for two days none ventured

from within their houses, either masters or slaves; for an order was

issued (as the most likely means of destroying him, should he appear in

the town) that whatever Malay was seen in the streets should be instantly

killed by the soldiery. On the evening of the second day, however, he was

taken alive on the Table Mountain, having done much injury to those who

took him, and was immediately consigned to the death he merited, being

broken on the wheel, and his head and members severed after the

execution, and distributed in different parts of the country.

Of this man, who had killed fourteen of the inhabitants, and desperately

wounded nearly double that number, it was remarked, that in his progress

his fury fell only on men, women passing him unhurt; and it was as

extraordinary as it was unfortunate, that among those whom his rage

destroyed, were some of the most deserving and promising young men in the

town. This, at Batavia, was called running a muck, or amocke, and

frequently happened there, but was the first instance of the kind known

at the Cape. Since that time, every Malay or other slave, having business

in the street after a certain hour in the evening, is obliged to carry a

lighted lantern, on pain of being stopped by the sentinel and kept in

custody until morning. Murder and villany are strongly depicted on the

features of the slaves of that nation; and such of them as dared to speak

of this dreadful catastrophe clearly appeared to approve the behaviour of

their countryman.

The government of the Cape we understood to be vested in a governor and

council, together with a court of justice. The council is composed of the

governor, the second or lieutenant-governor, the fiscal, the commanding

officer of the troops for the time being, and four counsellors. With

these all regulations for the management of the colony originate; and

from them all orders and decrees are issued. The court of justice is

composed of the fiscal, the second governor, a secretary, and twelve

members, six of whom are from among the burghers, and six from among the

bourgeoisie. The fiscal, who was the first magistrate, had hitherto been

styled independent, that is to say, his decisions were not subject to the

interference of the governor and council; but we were informed, that

since the death of the late fiscal, M. Serrurier, it had been determined

by the States, that the decrees of the fiscal should be subject to the

revision of the council. Before this officer were tried all causes both

civil and criminal. He had a set of people belonging to him who

constantly patrolled the streets armed, to apprehend all vagrant and

disorderly persons. Every fourteen days offences were tried. The prison

was adjacent to and had communication with the court-house. The place

where all sentences were executed stood to the left of the landing-place,

a short distance above the fort or castle. The ground on which it stood

was raised by several steps above the road. Within the walls were to be

seen (and seen with horror) six crosses for breaking criminals, a large

gibbet, a spiked pole for impalements, wheels, etc., etc. together with a

slight wooden building, erected for the reception of the ministers of

justice upon execution-days. Over the entrance was a figure of justice,

with the usual emblems of a sword and balance, and the following apposite

inscription: 'Felix quem faciunt aliena pericula cautum.' The bodies of

those broken on the wheel were exposed in different parts of the town,

several instances of which, and some very recent ones, were still to be

seen.

It had been always imagined, that the police of the Cape-town was so well

regulated as to render it next to impossible for any man to escape, after

whom the fiscal's people were in pursuit. This, however, did not appear

to be the case; for very shortly after our arrival four seamen belonging

to a ship of our fleet deserted from her; and although rewards were

offered for apprehending them, and every effort made that was likely to

insure success, two only were retaken before our departure.

Since the attempt meditated upon the Cape by the late Commodore

Johnstone, the attention of the government appeared to have been directed

to its internal defence. To this end additional works had been

constructed on each side of the town, toward the hill called the Lion's

Rump, and beyond the castle or garrison. But the defence in which they

chiefly prided themselves, and of which we were fortunate enough to

arrive in time to be spectators, consisted of two corps of cavalry and

one of infantry, formed from the gentlemen and inhabltants of the town.

We understood that these corps were called out annually to be exercised

during seven days, and were reviewed on the last day of their exercise by

the governor attended by his whole council. They appeared to be stout and

able-bodied men, particularly those who composed the two corps of

cavalry, and who were reputed to be excellent marksmen. Their horses,

arms, and appointments were purchased at their own expense, and they were

expected to hold them selves in readiness to assemble whenever their

services might be required by the governor. For uniform, they wore a blue

coat with white buttons, and buff waistcoat and breeches. Their parade

was the Square or Market-place, where they were attended by music, and

visited by all the beauty of the place, who animated them by their smiles

from the balcony of the town-hall, and if the weather was favourable

accompanied them to the exercising ground, where tents were pitched for

their reception, and whence they beheld these patriotic Africans (for few

of them knew Holland but by name) enuring themselves to the tolls of war,

'_pro aris et focis_'. We were however told, that at the least idea of an

enemy coming on the coast, the women were immediately sent to a distance

in the country.

The militia throughout the whole district of the Cape were assembled at

this time of the year, exercised for a week, and reviewed by the governor

or his deputy, commencing with the militia of the Capetown.

The present governor of the Cape, Mr. Van de Graaf, though a colonel of

engineers in the service of the States, yet holds his commission as

governor under the authority of the Dutch East India Company, to which

body the settlement wholly belongs. Every ship or vessel wearing a

pendant of the States, be her rate what it may, is on entering the

harbour saluted by the fort, which salute she returns with an inferior

number of guns. The governor, at the landing-place, with his officers and

carriages, attends the coming on shore of her captain or senior officer,

to receive his commands, and escort him to his lodgings in the town,

treating him with every mark of respect in his power. Such an humiliation

of the Company's principal servant and officers in a commercial community

bore, it must be confessed, rather an extraordinary appearance; but such,

as we were informed, was the distinction between the two services; and

Mr. Van de Graaf was obliged to obtain his prince's permission before he

could accept of the government of the Cape from the East India Company.

Residence at the Cape would be highly agreeable, were it not for the

south-east wind. This during the summer season blows with such violence,

and drives every where such clouds of sand before it, that the

inhabitants at certain times dare not stir out of their houses. Torrents

of dust and sand, we were told, had been frequently known to fall on

board of ships in the road. This circumstance accounted for every thing

we got here being gritty to the taste; sand mixing with their flour,

their rice, their sugar, and with whatever was capable of receiving it,

finding its way in at doors, windows, and wherever there was an entrance

for it. From the great height of the Table Mountain*, whatever clouds are

within its influence are attracted when the south-east wind prevails; and

as it increases in violence, these clouds hang over the side of the

mountain, and descend into the valley, sometimes rolling down very near

the town. From the curling of the vapour over the mountain, the

inhabitants predict the arrival of the south-easter, and say, 'The

Table-cloth is spread;' but with all its violence, and the inconvenience

of the dust and sand, it has a good effect, for the climate and air of

the Cape Town (though wonderfully beneficial and refreshing to strangers

after a long voyage) is not reckoned salubrious by the inhabitants, who,

we understood, were at times visited by pains in the chest, sore throats,

and putrid fevers; and the place would certainly be still more unhealthy

were it not for this south-east wind, which burns as it blows, and while

it sweeps disorder before it purifies the air.

[* 3353 Rhineland feet--a Rhineland foot being twelve inches and 5/12

English.]

The Cape is celebrated for producing in the highest perfection all the

tropical and other fruits; but of the few that were in season during our

stay we could not pronounce so favourably. The oranges and bananas in

particular were not equal to those of Rio de Janeiro. The grape we could

only taste from the bottle; that of Constantia, so much famed, has a very

fine, rich, and pleasant flavour, and is an excellent cordial; but much

of the wine that is sold under that name was never made of the grape of

Constantia; for the vineyard is but small, and has credit for a much

greater produce that it could

possibly yield: this reminds us of those eminent masters in the art of

painting, to whom more originals are ascribed than the labour of the

longest life of man could produce.

Wines of their own growth formed a considerable article of traffic here;

and the neatness, regularity, and extent of their wine-vaults, were

extremely pleasing to the eye; but a stranger should not visit more than

one of them in a day; for almost every cask has some peculiarity to

recommend it, and its contents must be tasted.

We found the paper currency here very inconvenient, from its lightness;

as more than one instance occurred among ourselves during our stay, of

its being torn from our hands by the violence of the south-east wind,

when we were about to make a payment in the street, or even at the door

of a shop.

The meat of the Cape was excellent; the black cattle were large, very

strong, and remarkable for the great space between their horns. It was

not uncommon to see twelve, fourteen, or sixteen oxen yoked in pairs to a

waggon, and galloping through the streets of the town, preceded by a

Hottentot boy, who accompanied them on foot, conducting the foremost

couple by a leathern thong, which caution they are compelled to observe

by an order of government, some accidents having formerly happened from

some of these large teams having been imprudently driven through the

streets without any one to lead them; the lash of the charioteer (for the

driver of such a team deserves a more honourable appellation than that of

waggoner) had been sometimes heard, we were told, on board of ships in

the bay.

The sheep are fat, well-flavoured, and remarkable for the weight and size

of their tails. Wonders have been related of them by travellers; but

travellers from this part of the world are privileged to exaggerate in

their narrations, if they choose so to do; the truth however is, that

their tails weigh from eight to sixteen pounds; some few perhaps may be

heavier by a pound or two; but though the sheep itself will very well

endure the voyage to Europe, yet its tall considerably decreases in size

and weight during the passage.

Strangers coming into the bay are served with beef, mutton, etc. by the

Company's butcher, who contracts to supply the Company, its officers and

ships, with meat at a certain price, which is fixed at about three

halfpence per pound, although he may have to purchase the cattle at three

or four times that sum; but in return for this exaction, he has the sole

permission of selling to strangers, and at a much higher price, though

even in that instance his demand is not allowed to exceed a certain

quota. Four-pence _per_ pound was the price given for all the meat served

to our ships after we came in.

During our stay here we made frequent visits to the Company's garden,

pleasantly situated in the midst of the town. The ground on each side of

the principal walk, which was from eight to nine hundred paces in length,

was laid out in fruit and kitchen gardens, and at the upper end was a

paddock where we saw three large ostriches, and a few antelopes. Behind

this paddock was a menagerie, which contained nothing very curious--a

vicious zebra, an eagle, a cassowary, a falcon, a crowned falcon, two of

the birds called secretaries, a crane, a tiger, an hyaena, two wolves, a

jackal, and a very large baboon, composed the entire catalogue of its

inhabitants.

In the town are two churches, one for the Calvinists, and another for the

followers of Luther. In the first of these was a handsome organ; four

large plain columns supported the roof, and the walls were ornamented

with escutcheons and armorial quarterings. The body of the church was

filled with chairs for the women, the men sitting in pews round the

sides. By the pulpit stood an hour-glass, which, we were told, regulated

the duration of the minister's admonition to his congregation. In the

churchyards the gravestones, instead of bearing the names of the

deceased, were all numbered, and the names were registered in a book kept

for the purpose.

Weddings were always solemnized on a Sunday at one or other of these

churches, and the parties were habited in sables, a dress surely more

congenial with the sensations felt on the last than on the first day of

such an union.

To the care of an officer belonging to a regiment in India, who was

returning to Europe in a Danish vessel, Captain Phillip committed his

dispatches; and by this ship every officer gladly embraced the last

opportunity of communicating with their friends and connections, until

they should be enabled to renew their correspondence from the new world

to which they were now bound.

Nothing remaining to be done that need detain the convoy longer in this

port, every article having been procured that could tend to the present

refreshment of the colonists, or to the future advantage of the colony,

the _Sirius_ was unmoored in the evening of Sunday the llth, Captain

Phillip purposing to put to sea the following morning; but the wind at

that time not being favourable, the boats from the _Sirius_ were once

more sent on shore for a load of water, in order than no vessel which

could be filled with an article so essential to the preservation of the

flock might be taken to sea empty.

The south-east wind now beginning to blow, the signal was made for

weighing, and at ten minutes before two in the afternoon of Monday the

12th of November the whole fleet was under sail standing out with a fresh

of wind to the northward of Robin Island.

It was natural to indulge at this moment a melancholy reflection which

obtruded itself upon the mind. The land behind us was the abode of a

civilized people; that before us was the residence of savages. When, if

ever, we might again enjoy the commerce of the world, was doubtful and

uncertain. The refreshments and the pleasures of which we had so

liberally partaken at the Cape, were to be exchanged for coarse fare and

hard labour at New South Wales. All communication with families and

friends now cut off, we were leaving the world behind us, to enter on a

state unknown; and, as if it had been necessary to imprint this idea more

strongly on our minds, and to render the sensation still more poignant,

at the close of the evening we spoke a ship from London*. The metropolis

of our native country, its pleasures, its wealth, and its consequence,

thus accidentally presented to the mind, failed not to afford a most

striking contrast with the object now principally in our view.

[* The _Kent_--southern whaler.]

Before we quitted the Cape Captain Hunter determined the longitude of the

Cape-town in Table-bay to be, by the mean of several sets of lunar

observations taken on board the _Sirius_, 18 degrees 23 minutes 55

seconds east from Greenwich.

SECTION III

Proceed on the voyage

Captain Phillip sails onward in the _Supply_, taking with him three of

the transports

Pass the island of St. Paul

Weather, January 1788

The South Cape of New Holland made

The _Sirius_ and her convoy anchor in the harbour of Botany Bay.

Every precaution being absolutely necessary to guard against a failure of

water on board the different ships, the whole were put upon an allowance

of three pints _per_ man _per diem_ soon after our departure from the

Cape. This regulation was highly proper, as from the probable continuance

of the easterly wind which then blew, the fleet might be detained a

considerable time at sea.

For several days after we had sailed, the wind was unfavourable, and

blowing fresh, with much sea, some time elapsed before we had reached to

the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope. On the 16th, Captain Phillip

signified his intention of proceeding forward in the _Supply_, with the

view of arriving in New South Wales so long before the principal part of

the fleet, as to be able to fix on a clear and proper place for the

settlement. Lieutenant Shortland was at the same time informed, that he

was to quit the fleet with the _Alexander_, taking on with him the

_Scarborough_ and _Friendship_ transports. These three ships had on board

the greater part of the male convicts, whom Captain Phillip had sanguine

hopes of employing to much advantage, before the _Sirius_, with that part

of the fleet which was to remain under Captain Hunter's direction, should

arrive upon the coast. This separation, the first that had occurred, did

not take place until the 25th, on which day Captain Phillip went on board

the _Supply_, taking with him, from the _Sirius_, Lieutenants King and

Dawes, with the time-keeper. On the same day Major Ross, with the

adjutant and quarter-master of the detachment, went into the

_Scarborough_, in order to co-operate with Captain Phillip in his

intention of preparing, as far as time might allow, for the reception of

the rest of the convoy.

The _Supply_ and the three transports having taken their departure,

Captain Hunter drew his little convoy into the order of sailing

prescribed for them; and the boats, which had been employed passing and

repassing between the _Sirius_ and the transports, being hoisted in,

about noon the fleet made sail to the south-east, having a fresh breeze

at west-north-west.

December.] On Sunday the 16th of December, by computation, we were

abreast of the Island of St. Paul, passing it at the distance of about

sixty leagues.

The following day, on the return of a boat from the _Fishbourn_

store-ship which had been sent to inquire into the state of the stock, we

heard that several of the sheep were dead, as well as eight of the hogs

belonging to the public stock.

Christmas day found us in the latitude of 42 degrees 10 minutes south,

and steering, as we had done for a considerable time, an east-south-east

course. We complied, as far as was in our power, with the good old

English custom, and partook of a better dinner this day than usual; but

the weather was too rough to admit of much social enjoyment.

With the wind at south-west, west-south-west, and south and by west, the

weather was clear and cold, while to the northward of east or west it

generally blew in strong gales.

We now often noticed pieces of sea-weed floating by the ships; and on the

28th the sun just appeared in time to show us we were in the latitude of

42 degrees 58 minutes south.

On the 29th, being in latitude 43 degrees 35 minutes south, the course

was altered to east and by south half south, in order to run down our

easting without going any further to the southward. The run at noon on

this day was found to be the greatest we had made in any twenty-four

hours since our departure from England, having 182 miles on the log-board

since twelve o'clock the preceding day.

By lunar observations taken on the 30th the longitude was found to be 118

degrees 19 minutes east.

1788.]

January.] The new year opened with a gale of wind from the northward,

which continued with much violence all the day, moderating towards

evening.

The evening of the third proved fine and moderate, and the sun setting

clear gave a good observation for the amplitude, when the variation was

found to be 1 degree 00 minutes east. At noon the fleet was in the

latitude of 44 degrees 00 minutes south, and longitude by lunar

observation 135 degrees 32 minutes east, of which the convoy was

informed.

At noon on the 4th preparations were made on board the _Sirius_ for

falling in with the land; her cables were bent, signal-guns prepared, and

every possible precautions taken to ensure the safety of the fleet.

About ten at night on the 5th, a very beautiful aurora australis was

observed bearing about south-west of the fleet; and for some nights a

luminous phenomenon had been seen resembling lights floating on the

surface of the water.

By a lunar observation taken at ten o'clock of the forenoon of Monday the

7th, the fleet was then distant seventeen leagues from the South Cape of

New Holland; and at five minutes past two in the afternoon the signal was

made for seeing the land. The rocks named the Mewstone and Swilly were

soon visible, and the fleet stood along shore with fair moderate weather

and smooth water, the land of New Holland distant from three to five

miles.

Nothing could more strongly prove the excellence and utility of lunar

observations, than the accuracy with which we made the land in this long

voyage from the Cape of Good Hope, there not being a league difference

between our expectation of seeing it, and the real appearance of it.

A thick haze hanging over the land, few observations could be made of it.

What we first saw was the South-west Cape of New Holland, between which

and the South Cape the land appeared high and rocky, rising gradually

from the shore, and wearing in many places a very barren aspect. In small

cavities, on the summit of some of the high land, was the appearance of

snow. Over the South Cape the land seemed covered with wood; the trees

stood thick, and the bark of them appeared in general to have a whitish

cast. The coast seemed very irregular, projecting into low points forming

creeks and bays, some of which seemed to be deep; very little verdure was

any where discernible; in many spots the ground looked arid and sterile.

At night we perceived several fires lighted on the coast, at many of

which, no doubt, were some of the native inhabitants, to whom it was

probable our novel appearance must have afforded matter of curiosity and

wonder.

In all the preceding passage we had been scarcely a day without seeing

birds of different kinds; and we also met with many whales. The weather

was in general very rough, and the sea high, but the wind favourable,

blowing mostly from north-west to south-west.

The convoy behaved well, paying more attention and obedience to signals

than ships in the merchant service are commonly known to do. The ships,

however, began to grow foul, not one of them being coppered, and we now

anxiously wished for a termination of the voyage, particularly as the hay

provided for the horses was on the point of being wholly expended.

The fair wind which had accompanied us to New Holland suddenly left us,

shifting round to north-east and by east; we were obliged to lay our

heads off-shore, in order to weather Swilly and the Eddystone (a

perpendicular rock about a league to the eastward of Swilly) and the next

day we had the mortification of a foul wind, a thing to which we had been

long unaccustomed.

In the night of the 9th the _Golden Grove_ shipped a sea, which stove in

all her cabin windows: it was nearly calm at the time, with a confused

heavy swell*.

[* This circumstance has since occurred to other ships nearly in the same

situation.]

At two o'clock in the afternoon of the following day a very heavy and

sudden squall took the _Sirius_ and laid her considerably down on her

starboard side: it blew very fresh, and was felt more or less by all the

transports, some of which suffered in their sails.

Our progress along the coast to the northward was very slow, and it was

not until the 19th that we fell in with the land, when we were nearly

abreast of the Point named by Captain Cook Red Point. Before evening,

however, we were gratified with the sight of the entrance into Botany

Bay, but too late to attempt standing into it with the transports that

night. The convoy therefore was informed by Captain Hunter how the

entrance of the bay bore, and directed to be very attentive in the

morning when the _Sirius _made sail or bore up.

When the morning came we found the fleet had been carried by a current to

the southward as far as a clump of trees which had the preceding day

obtained, from some resemblance in the appearance, the name of Post-down

Clump; but with the assistance of a fine breeze we soon regained what we

had lost in the night; and at ten minutes before eight in the morning the

_Sirius_ came to an anchor in Botany Bay. The transports were all safe in

by nine o'clock.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE ENGLISH COLONY IN NEW SOUTH WALES

CHAPTER I

Arrival of the fleet at Botany Bay

The governor proceeds to Port Jackson, where it is determined to fix the

settlement

Two French ships under M. de la Perouse arrive at Botany Bay

The _Sirius_ and convoy arrive at Port Jackson

Transactions

Disembarkation

Commission and letters patent read

Extent of the territory of New South Wales

Behaviour of the convicts

The criminal court twice assembled

Account of the different courts

The _Supply_ sent with some settlers to Norfolk Island

Transactions

Natives

Weather

When the _Sirius_ anchored in the bay, Captain Hunter was informed that

the _Supply_ had preceded him in his arrival only two days; and that the

agent Lieutenant Shortland, with his detachment from the fleet, had

arrived but the day before the _Sirius_ and her convoy.

Thus, under the blessing of God, was happily completed, in eight months

and one week, a voyage which, before it was undertaken, the mind hardly

dared venture to contemplate, and on which it was impossible to reflect

without some apprehensions as to its termination. This fortunate

completion of it, however, afforded even to ourselves as much matter of

surprise as of general satisfaction; for in the above space of time we

had sailed five thousand and twenty-one leagues; had touched at the

American and African Continents; and had at last rested within a few days

sail of the antipodes of our native country, without meeting any accident

in a fleet of eleven sail, nine of which were merchantmen that had never

before sailed in that distant and imperfectly explored ocean: and when it

is considered, that there was on board a large body of convicts, many of

whom were embarked in a very sickly state, we might be deemed peculiarly

fortunate, that of the whole number of all descriptions of persons coming

to form the new settlement, only thirty-two had died since their leaving

England, among whom were to be included one or two deaths by accidents;

although previous to our departure it was generally conjectured, that

before we should have been a month at sea one of the transports would

have been converted into an hospital ship. But it fortunately happened

otherwise; the high health which was apparent in every countenance was to

be attributed not only to the refreshments we met with at Rio de Janeiro

and the Cape of Good Hope, but to the excellent quality of the provisions

with which we were supplied by Mr. Richards junior, the contractor; and

the spirits visible in every eye were to be ascribed to the general joy

and satisfaction which immediately took place on finding ourselves

arrived at that port which had been so much and so long the subject of

our most serious reflections, the constant theme of our conversations.

The governor, we found, had employed the time he had been here in

examining the bay, for the purpose of determining where he should

establish the settlement; but as yet he had not seen any spot to which

some strong objection did not apply. Indeed, very few places offered

themselves to his choice, and not one sufficiently extensive for a

thousand people to sit down on. The southern shore about Point Sutherland

seemed to possess the soil best adapted for cultivation, but it was

deficient in that grand essential fresh water, and was besides too

confined for our numbers. There was indeed a small run of water there;

but it appeared to be only a drain from a marsh, and by no means promised

that ample or certain supply which was requisite for such a settlement as

ours. The governor, therefore, speedily determined on examining the

adjacent harbours of Port Jackson and Broken Bay, in one of which he

thought it possible that a better situation for his young colony might be

found. But as his search might possibly prove fruitless, and that the few

days which it should occupy might not be altogether thrown away, he left

the lieutenant-governor at Botany Bay, with instructions to clear the

ground about Point Sutherland, and make preparations for disembarking the

detachment of marines and the convicts on his return, should that place

at last be deemed the most eligible spot. At the same time Lieutenant

King, of the _Sirius_, was directed to examine such parts of the bay as,

from want of time, the governor had not himself been able to visit.

The governor set off on Monday the 21st, accompanied by Captain Hunter,

Captain Collins (the judge-advocate), a lieutenant, and the master of the

_Sirius_, with a small party of marines for their protection, the whole

being embarked in three open boats. The day was mild and serene, and

there being but a gentle swell without the mouth of the harbour, the

excursion promised to be a pleasant one. Their little fleet attracted the

attention of several parties of the natives, as they proceeded along the

coast, who all greeted them in the same words, and in the same tone of

vociferation, shouting every where 'Warra, warra, warra' words which, by

the gestures that accompanied them, could not be interpreted into

invitations to land, or expressions of welcome. It must however be

observed, that at Botany Bay the natives had hitherto conducted

themselves sociably and peaceably toward all the parties of our officers

and people with whom they had hitherto met, and by no means seemed to

regard them as enemies or invaders of their country and tranquillity*.

[* How grateful to every feeling of humanity would it be could we

conclude this narrative without being compelled to say, that these

unoffending people had found reason to change both their opinions and

their conduct!]

The coast, as the boats drew near Port Jackson, wore so unfavourable an

appearance, that Captain Phillip's utmost expectation reached no farther

than to find what Captain Cook, as he passed by, thought might be found,

shelter for a boat. In this conjecture, however, he was most agreeably

disappointed, by finding not only shelter for a boat, but a harbour

capable of affording security to a much larger fleet than would probably

ever seek for shelter or security in it. In one of the coves of this

noble and capacious harbour, equal if not superior to any yet known in

the world, it was determined to fix the settlement; and on the 23rd,

having examined it as fully as the time would allow, the governor and his

party left Port Jackson and its friendly and peaceful inhabitants (for

such he everywhere found them), and returned to Botany Bay.

In the report, of the survey made by Lieutenant King, during the

governor's absence, the latter found nothing to induce him to alter his

resolution of fixing in Port Jackson: directions were therefore given,

that the necessary supply of water and grass for the stock should be

immediately sent off to the ships, and the next morning was appointed for

their departure from Botany Bay.

Several trees had been cut down at Point Sutherland, a saw-pit had been

dug, and other preparations made for disembarking, in case the governor

had not succeeded as, to the great satisfaction of every one, it was

found he had; for had he been compelled to remain in Botany Bay, the

swampy ground every where around it threatened us with unhealthy

situations; neither could the shipping have ridden in perfect security

when the wind blew from the SE to which the bay lay much exposed, the sea

at that time rolling in with a prodigious swell. A removal therefore to

Port Jackson was highly applauded, and would have taken place the next

morning, but at daylight we were surprised by the appearance of two

strange sail in the offing. Of what nation they could be, engaged the

general wonder for some time, which at last gave way to a conjecture that

they might be the French ships under M. de la Perouse, then on a voyage

round the world. This was soon strengthened by the view of a white

pendant, similar in shape to that of a commodore in our service, and we

had no longer a doubt remaining that they were the ships above mentioned.

They were, however, prevented by a strong southerly current from getting

into the bay until the 26th, when it was known that they were the

_Boussole_ and _Astrolabe_, French ships, which sailed, under the command

of M. de la Perouse, from France in the year 1785, on a voyage of

discovery. As Captain Hunter, with whom the governor had left the charge

of bringing the _Sirius_ and transports round to Port Jackson (whither he

had preceded them in the _Supply_ the day before), was working out when

M. de la Perouse entered Botany Bay, the two commanders had barely time

to exchange civilities; and it must naturally have created some surprise

in M. de la Perouse to find our fleet abandoning the harbour at the very

time he was preparing to anchor in it: indeed he afterwards said, that

until he had looked round him in Botany Bay, he could not divine the

cause of our quitting it, which he was so far from expecting, that having

heard at Kamschatka of the intended settlement, he imagined he should

have found a town built and a market established; but from what he had

seen of the country since his arrival, he was convinced of the propriety

and absolute necessity of the measure. M. de la Perouse sailed into the

harbour by Captain Cook's chart of Botany Bay, which lay before him on

the binnacle; and we had the pleasure of hearing him more than once pay a

tribute to our great circumnavigator's memory, by acknowledging the

accuracy of his nautical observations.

The governor, with a party of marines, and some artificers selected from

among the seamen of the _Sirius_ and the convicts, arrived in Port

Jackson, and anchored off the mouth of the cove intended for the

settlement on the evening of the 25th; and in the course of the following

day sufficient ground was cleared for encamping the officer's guard and

the convicts who had been landed in the morning. The spot chosen for this

purpose was at the head of the cove, near the run of fresh water, which

stole silently along through a very thick wood, the stillness of which

had then, for the first time since the creation, been interrupted by the

rude sound of the labourer's axe, and the downfall of its ancient

inhabitants; a stillness and tranquillity which from that day were to

give place to the voice of labour, the confusion of camps and towns, and

'the busy hum of its new possessors.' That these did not bring with them,

'Minds not to be changed by time or place,' was fervently to have been

wished; and if it were possible, that on taking possession of Nature, as

we had thus done, in her simplest, purest garb, we might not sully that

purity by the introduction of vice, profaneness, and immorality. But

this, though much to be wished, was little to be expected; the habits of

youth are not easily laid aside, and the utmost we could hope in our

present situation was to oppose the soft harmonising arts of peace and

civilisation to the baneful influence of vice and immorality.

In the evening of this day the whole of the party that came round in the

_Supply_ were assembled at the point where they had first landed in the

morning, and on which a flag-staff had been purposely erected and an

union jack displayed, when the marines fired several vollies; between

which the governor and the officers who accompanied him drank the healths

of his Majesty and the Royal Family, and success to the new colony. The

day, which had been uncommonly fine, concluded with the safe arrival of

the _Sirius_ and the convoy from Botany Bay--thus terminating the voyage

with the same good fortune that had from its commencement been so

conspicuously their friend and companion.

The disembarkation of the troops and convicts took place from the

following day until the whole were landed. The confusion that ensued will

not be wondered at, when it is considered that every man stepped from the

boat literally into a wood. Parties of people were every where heard and

seen variously employed; some in clearing ground for the different

encampments; others in pitching tents, or bringing up such stores as were

more immediately wanted; and the spot which had so lately been the abode

of silence and tranquillity was now changed to that of noise, clamour,

and confusion: but after a time order gradually prevailed every where. As

the woods were opened and the ground cleared, the various encampments

were extended, and all wore the appearance of regularity.

February.] A portable canvas house, brought over for the governor, was

erected on the East side of the cove (which was named Sydney, in

compliment to the principal secretary of state for the home department)

where also a small body of convicts was put under tents. The detachment

of marines was encamped at the head of the cove near the stream, and on

the West side was placed the main body of the convicts. The women did not

disembark until the 6th of February; when, every person belonging to the

settlement being landed, the numbers amounted to 1030 persons. The tents

for the sick were placed on the West side, and it was observed with

concern that their numbers were fast increasing. The scurvy, that had not

appeared during the passage, now broke out, which, aided by a dysentery,

began to fill the hospital, and several died. In addition to the

medicines that were administered, every species of esculent plants that

could be found in the country were procured for them; wild celery,

spinach, and parsley, fortunately grew in abundance about the settlement;

those who were in health, as well as the sick, were very glad to

introduce them into their messes, and found them a pleasant as well as

wholesome addition to the ration of salt provisions.

The public stock, consisting of one bull, four cows, one bull-calf, one

stallion, three mares, and three colts (one of which was a stone-colt)

were landed on the East point of the cove, where they remained until they

had cropped the little pasturage it afforded; and were then removed to a

spot at the head of the adjoining cove, that was cleared for a small

farm, intended to be placed under the direction of a person brought out

by the governor.

Some ground having been prepared near his excellency's house on the East

side, the plants from Rio-de-Janeiro and the Cape of Good Hope were

safely brought on shore in a few days; and we soon had the satisfaction

of seeing the grape, the fig, the orange, the pear, and the apple, the

delicious fruits of the Old, taking root and establishing themselves in

our New World.

As soon as the hurry and tumult necessarily attending the disembarkation

had a little subsided, the governor caused his Majesty's commission,

appointing him to be his captain-general and governor in chief in and

over the territory of New South Wales and its dependencies, to be

publicly read, together with the letters patent for establishing the

courts of civil and criminal judicature in the territory, the extent of

which, until this publication of it, was but little known even among

ourselves. It was now found to extend from Cape York (the extremity of

the coast to the northward) in the latitude of 20 degrees 37 minutes

South, to the South Cape (the southern extremity of the coast) in the

latitude of 43 degrees 39 minutes South; and inland to the westward as

far as 135 degrees of East longitude, comprehending all the islands

adjacent in the Pacific Ocean, within the latitudes of the

above-mentioned capes.

By this definition of our boundaries it will be seen that we were

confined along the coast of this continent to such parts of it solely as

were navigated by Captain Cook, without infringing on what might be

claimed by other nations from the right of discovery. Of that right,

however, no other nation has chosen to avail itself. Whether the western

coast is unpromising in its appearance, or whether the want of a return

proportioned to the expense which the mother-country must sustain in

supporting a settlement formed nearly at the farthest part of the globe,

may have deterred them, is not known; but Great Britain alone has

followed up the discoveries she had made in this country, by at once

establishing in it a regular colony and civil government.

The ceremony of reading these public instruments having been performed by

the judge-advocate, the governor, addressing himself to the convicts,

assured them, among other things, that 'he should ever be ready to show

approbation and encouragement to those who proved themselves worthy of

them by good conduct and attention to orders; while on the other hand,

such as were determined to act in opposition to propriety, and observe a

contrary conduct, would inevitably meet with the punishment which they

deserved.' He remarked how much it was their interest to forget the

habits of vice and indolence in which too many of them had hitherto

lived; and exhorted them to be honest among themselves, obedient to their

overseers, and attentive to the several works in which they were about to

be employed. At the conclusion of this address three volleys were fired

by the troops, who thereupon returned to their parade, where the

governor, attended by Captain Hunter and the principal officers of the

settlement, passed along the front of the detachment, and received the

honours due to a captain-general; after which he entertained all the

officers and gentlemen of the settlement at dinner, under a large tent

pitched for the purpose at the head of the marine encampment.

The convicts had been mustered early in the morning, when nine were

reported to be absent. From the situation which we had unavoidably

adopted, it was impossible to prevent these people from straggling.

Fearless of the danger which must attend them, many had visited the

French ships in Botany Bay, soliciting to be taken on board, and giving a

great deal of trouble. It was soon found that they secreted at least

one-third of their working tools, and that any sort of labour was with

difficulty procured from them.

The want of proper overseers principally contributed to this. Those who

were placed over them as such were people selected from among themselves,

being recommended by their conduct during the voyage; few of these,

however, chose to exert the authority that was requisite to keep the

gangs at their labour, although assured of meeting with every necessary

support. Petty thefts among themselves began soon to be complained of;

the sailors from the transports, although repeatedly forbidden, and

frequently punished, still persisted in bringing spirits on shore by

night, and drunkenness was often the consequence.

To check these enormities, the court of criminal judicature was assembled

on the 11th of February, when three prisoners were tried; one for an

assault, of which being found guilty, he was sentenced to receive one

hundred and fifty lashes; a second, for taking some biscuit from another

convict, was sentenced to a week's confinement on bread and water, on a

small rocky island near the entrance of the cove; and a third, for

stealing a plank, was sentenced to receive fifty lashes, but, being

recommended to the governor, was forgiven.

The mildness of these punishments seemed rather to have encouraged than

deterred others from the commission of greater offences; for before the

month was ended the criminal court was again assembled for the trial of

four offenders, who had conceived and executed a plan for robbing the

public store during the time of issuing the provisions. This crime, in

its tendency big with evil to our little community, was rendered still

more atrocious by being perpetrated at the very time when the difference

of provisions, which had till then existed, was taken off, and the

convict saw the same proportion of provision issued to himself that was

served to the soldier and the officer, the article of spirits only

excepted. Each male convict was that day put upon the following weekly

ration of provisions, two-thirds of which was served to the female

convicts, viz 7 pounds of biscuit; 1 pound of flour; 7 pounds of beef, or

4 pounds of pork; 3 pints of peas; and 6 ounces of butter.

It was fair to suppose that so liberal a ration would in itself have

proved the security of the store, and have defended it from depredation;

but we saw with concern, that there were among us some minds so

habitually vicious that no consideration was of any weight with them, nor

could they be induced to do right by any prospect of future benefit, or

fear of certain and immediate punishment. The charge being fully proved,

one man, James Barrett, suffered death: his confederates were pardoned,

on condition of their being banished from the settlement. Another culprit

was sentenced to receive three hundred lashes; but, not appearing so

guilty as his companions, was pardoned by the governor, the power of

pardoning being vested in him by his Majesty's commission.

His excellency, having caused one example to be made, extended lenity to

some others who were tried the following day; and one convict, James

Freeman, was pardoned on condition of his becoming the public

executioner.

It appeared by the letters patent under the great seal of Great Britain,

which were read after the governor's commission, that 'the appointment of

the place to which offenders should be transported having been vested in

the crown by an act of parliament, his Majesty, by two several orders in

council, bearing date the 6th of December 1786, had declared, that

certain offenders named in two lists annexed to the orders in council

should be transported to the eastern coast of New Holland, named New

South Wales, or some one or other of the islands adjacent:' and it being

deemed necessary that a colony and civil government should be established

in the place to which such felons should be transported, and that a court

of criminal jurisdiction should also be established therein, with

authority to proceed in a more summary way than is used within the realms

of Great Britain, according to the known and established laws thereof,

his Majesty, by the 27th Geo. 3. cap. 56. was enabled to authorise, by

his commission under the great seal, 'the governor, or in his absence the

lieutenant-governor of such place, to convene from time to time, as

occasion may require, a court of criminal jurisdiction, which court is to

be a court of record, and is to consist of the judge-advocate and such

six officers of the sea and land service as the governor shall, by

precept issued under his hand and seal, require to assemble for that

purpose.' This court has power to inquire of, hear, determine, and punish

all treasons, misprisions of treasons, murders, felonies, forgeries,

perjuries, trespasses, and other crimes whatsoever that may be committed

in the colony; the punishment for such offences to be inflicted according

to the laws of England as nearly as may be, considering and allowing for

the circumstances and situation of the settlement and its inhabitants.

The charge against any offender is to be reduced into writing, and

exhibited by the judge-advocate: witnesses are to be examined upon oath,

as well for as against the prisoner; and the court is to adjudge whether

he is guilty or not guilty by the opinion of the major part of the court.

If guilty, and the offence is capital, they are to pronounce judgment of

death, in like manner as if the prisoner had been convicted by the

verdict of a jury in England, or of such corporal punishment as the

court, or the major part of it, shall deem meet. And in cases not

capital, they are to adjudge such corporal punishment as the majority of

the court shall determine. But no offender is to suffer death, unless

five members of the court shall concur in adjudging him to be guilty,

until the proceedings shall have been transmitted to England, and the

king's pleasure signified thereupon. The provost-marshal is to cause the

judgment of the court to be executed according to the governor's warrant

under his hand and seal.

The resemblance of this to the military courts may be easily traced in

some particulars. The criminal court is assembled, not at stated times,

but whenever occasion may require. It is composed of military officers

(the judge-advocate excepted, whose situation is of a civil nature) who

assemble as such in their military habits, with the insignia of duty, the

sash and the sword. Their judgments are to be determined by the majority;

and the examination of the witnesses is carried on by the members of the

court, as well as by the judge-advocate. But in other respects it differs

from the military courts. The judge-advocate is the judge or president of

the court; he frames and exhibits the charge against the prisoner, has a

vote in the court, and is sworn, like the members of it, well and truly

to try and to make true deliverance between the king and the prisoner,

and give a verdict according to the evidence.

When the state of the colony and the nature of its inhabitants are

considered, it must be agreed, that the administration of public justice

could not have been placed with so much propriety in any other hands. The

outward form of the court, as well as the more essential part of it, are

admirably calculated to meet the characters and disposition of the people

who form the major part of the settlement. As long confinement would be

attended with a loss of labour, and other evils, the court is assembled

within a day or two after the apprehension of any prisoner whose crime is

of such magnitude as to call for a criminal proceeding against him. He is

brought before a court composed of a judge and six men of honour, who

hear the evidence both for and against him, and determine whether the

crime exhibited be or be not made out; and his punishment, if found

guilty, is adjudged according to the laws of England, considering and

allowing for the situation and circumstances of the settlement and its

inhabitants; which punishment, however, after all, cannot be inflicted

without the ratification of the governor under his hand and seal.

Beside this court for the trial of criminal offenders, there is a civil

court, consisting of the judge-advocate and two inhabitants of the

settlement, who are to be appointed by the governor; which court has full

power to hear and determine in a summary way all pleas of lands, houses,

debts, contracts, and all personal pleas whatsoever, with authority to

summon the parties upon complaint being made, to examine the matter of

such complaint by the oaths of witnesses, and to issue warrants of

execution under the hand and seal of the judge-advocate. From this court,

on either party, plaintiff or defendant, finding himself or themselves

aggrieved by the judgment or decree, an appeal lies to the governor, and

from him, where the debt or thing in demand shall exceed the value of

three hundred pounds, to the king in council: but these appeals must be

put in, if from the civil court, within eight days, and if from the

governor or superior court, within fourteen days after pronouncing the

said judgments.

To this court is likewise given authority to grant probates of wills and

administration of the personal estates of intestates dying within the

settlement. But as property must be acquired in the country before its

rights can come into question, few occasions of assembling this court can

occur for many years.

In addition to these courts for the trial of crimes, and the cognisance

of civil suits, the governor, the lieutenant-governor, and the

judge-advocate for the time being, are by his Majesty's letters patent

constituted justices for the preservation of the peace of the settlement,

with the same power that justices of the peace have in England within

their respective jurisdictions. And the governor, being enabled by his

Majesty's commission, soon after our arrival, caused Augustus Alt esq.

(the surveyor-general of the territory) to be sworn a justice of the

peace, for the purpose of sitting once a week, or oftener as occasion

might require, with the judge-advocate, to examine all offences committed

by the convicts, and determine on and punish such as were not of

sufficient importance for trial by the criminal court.

There is also a vice-admiralty court for the trial of offences committed

upon the high seas, of which the lieutenant-governor is constituted the

judge, Mr. Andrew Miller the registrar, and Mr. Henry Brewer the

marshall. The governor has, beside that of captain-general, a commission

constituting him vice-admiral of the territory; and another vesting him

with authority to hold* general courts-martial, and to confirm or set

aside the sentence. The major-commandant of the detachment had the usual

power of assembling regimental or battalion courts-martial for the trial

of offences committed by the soldiers under his command.

[* Captain Collins, the judge-advocate of the settlement, had also a

warrant from the Admiralty appointing him judge-advocate to the marine

detachment.]

By this account of the different modes of administering and obtaining

justice, which the legislature provided for this settlement, it is

evident that great care had been taken on our setting out, to furnish us

with a stable foundation whereon to erect our little colony, a foundation

which was established in the punishment of vice, the security of

property, and the preservation of peace and good order in our community.

The governor having also received instructions to establish a settlement

at Norfolk Island, the _Supply_ sailed for that place about the middle of

the month of February, having on board Lieutenant King of the _Sirius_,

named by Capt. Phillip superintendant and commandant of the settlement to

be formed there. Lieutenant King took with him one surgeon (Mr. Jamieson,

surgeon's mate of the _Sirius_), one petty officer (Mr. Cunningham, also

of the _Sirius_), two private soldiers, two persons who pretended to some

knowledge of flax-dressing, and nine male and six female convicts, mostly

volunteers. This little party was to be landed with tents, clothing for

the convicts, implements of husbandry, tools for dressing flax, etc. and

provisions for six months; before the expiration of which time it was

designed to send them a fresh supply.

Norfolk Island is situated in the latitude of 29 degrees south, and in

longitude 168 degrees 10 minutes east of Greenwich, and was settled with

a view to the cultivation of the flax plant, which at the time when the

island was discovered by Captain Cook was found growing most luxuriantly

where he landed; and from the specimens taken to England of the New

Zealand flax (of which sort is that growing at Norfolk Island), it was

hoped some advantages to the mother country might be derived from

cultivating and manufacturing it.

Mr. King, previous to his departure for his little government, was sworn

in as a justice of the peace, taking the oaths necessary on the occasion,

by which he was enabled to punish such petty offences as might be

committed among his people, capital crimes being reserved for the

cognisance of the criminal court of judicature established here.

Our own preservation depending in a great measure upon the preservation

of our stores and provisions, houses for their reception were immediately

begun when sufficient ground was found to be cleared; and the persons who

had the direction of these and other works carrying on, found it most to

the advantage of the public service to employ the convicts in task work,

allotting a certain quantity of ground to be cleared by a certain number

of persons in a given time, and allowing them to employ what time they

might gain, till called on again for public service, in bringing in

materials and erecting huts for themselves. But for the most part they

preferred passing in idleness the hours that might have been so

profitably spent, straggling into the woods for vegetables, or visiting

the French ships in Botany Bay. Of this latter circumstance we were

informed by M. de Clonard, the captain of the _Astrolabe_, in an

excursion he made from the ships, to bring round some dispatches from M.

de la Perouse, which that officer requested might be forwarded to the

French ambassador at the court of London by the first of our transports

that might sail from hence for Europe. He informed us, that they were

daily visited by the convicts, many of whom solicited to be received on

board before their departure, promising (as an inducement) to be

accompanied by a number of females. M. de Clonard at the same time

assured us, that the general (as he was termed by his officers and

people) had given their solicitations no kind of countenance, but had

threatened to drive them away by force.

Among the buildings that were undertaken shortly after our arrival, must

be mentioned an observatory, which was marked out on the western point of

the cove, to receive the astronomical instruments which had been sent out

by the Board of Longitude, for the purpose of observing the comet which

was expected to be seen about the end of this year. The construction of

this building was placed under the direction of Lieut. Dawes of the

marines, who, having made this branch of science his particular study,

was appointed by the Board of Longitude to make astronomical observations

in this country.

The latitude of the observatory was 33 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds S;

the longitude, from Greenwich, 151 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds E.

Governor Phillip, having been very much pressed for time when he first

visited this harbour, had not thoroughly examined it. The completion of

that necessary business was left to Captain Hunter, who, with the first

lieutenant of the _Sirius_, early in the month of February, made an

accurate survey of it. It was then found to be far more extensive to the

westward than was at first imagined, and Captain Hunter described the

country as wearing a much more favourable countenance toward the head or

upper part, than it did immediately about the settlement. He saw several

parties of the natives, and, treating them constantly with good humour,

they always left him with friendly impressions.

It was natural to suppose that the curiosity of these people would be

attracted by observing, that, instead of quitting, we were occupied in

works that indicated an intention of remaining in their country; but

during the first six weeks we received only one visit, two men strolling

into the camp one evening, and remaining in it for about half an hour.

They appeared to admire whatever they saw, and after receiving each a

hatchet (of the use of which the eldest instantly and curiously showed

his knowledge, by turning up his foot, and sharpening a piece of wood on

the sole with the hatchet) took their leave, apparently well pleased with

their reception. The fishing-boats also frequently reported their having

been visited by many of these people when hauling the seine, at which

labour they often assisted with cheerfulness, and in return were

generally rewarded with part of the fish taken.

Every precaution was used to guard against a breach of this friendly and

desirable intercourse, by strictly prohibiting every person from

depriving them of their spears, fizgigs, gum, or other articles, which we

soon perceived they were accustomed to leave under the rocks, or loose

and scattered about upon the beaches. We had however great reason to

believe that these precautions were first rendered fruitless by the ill

conduct of a boat's crew belonging to one of the transports, who, we were

told afterwards, attempted to land in one of the coves at the lower part

of the harbour, but were prevented, and driven off with stones by the

natives. A party of them, consisting of sixteen or eighteen persons, some

time after landed on the island* where the people of the _Sirius_ were

preparing a garden, and with much artifice, watching their opportunity,

carried off a shovel, a spade, and a pick-axe. On their being fired at

and hit on the legs by one of the people with small shot, the pick-axe

was dropped, but they carried off the other tools.

[* Since known by the name of Garden Island.]

To such circumstances as these must be attributed the termination of that

good understanding which had hitherto subsisted between us and them, and

which Governor Phillip laboured to improve whenever he had an

opportunity. But it might have been foreseen that this would unavoidably

happen: the convicts were every where straggling about, collecting

animals and gum to sell to the people of the transports, who at the same

time were procuring spears, shields, swords, fishing-lines, and other

articles from the natives, to carry to Europe; the loss of which must

have been attended with many inconveniences to the owners, as it was soon

evident that they were the only means whereby they obtained or could

procure their daily subsistence; and although some of these people had

been punished for purchasing articles of the convicts, the practice was

carried on secretly, and attended with all the bad effects which were to

be expected from it. We also had the mortification to learn, that M. De

la Perouse had been compelled to fire upon the natives at Botany Bay,

where they frequently annoyed his people who were employed on shore. This

circumstance materially affected us, as those who had rendered this

violence necessary could not discriminate between us and them. We were

however perfectly convinced that nothing short of the greatest necessity

could have induced M. De la Perouse to take such a step, as we heard him

declare, that it was among the particular instructions that he received

from his sovereign, to endeavour by every possible means to acquire and

cultivate the friendship of the natives of such places as he might

discover or visit; and to avoid exercising any act of hostility upon

them. In obedience to this humane command, there was no doubt but he

forbore using force until forbearance would have been dangerous, and he

had been taught a lesson at Maouna, one of the Isles des Navigateurs,

that the tempers of savages were not to be trusted too far; for we were

informed, that on the very day and hour of their departure from that

island, the boats of the two ships, which were sent for a last load of

water, were attacked by the natives with stones and clubs, and M. De

l'Angle, the captain of the _Astrolabe_, with eleven officers and men,

were put to death; those who were so fortunate as to get off in the small

boats that attended on the watering launches (which were destroyed),

escaped with many wounds and contusions, some of which were not healed at

the time of their relating to us this unfortunate circumstance. It was

conjectured, that some one of the seamen, unknown to the officers, must

have occasioned this outrage, for which there was no other probable

reason to assign, as the natives during the time the ships were at the

island had lived with the officers and people on terms of the greatest

harmony. And this was not the first misfortune that those ships had met

with during their voyage; for on the north-west coast of America, they

lost two boats with their crews, and several young men of family, in a

surf.

Notwithstanding the pressure of the important business we had upon our

hands after our landing, the discharge of our religious duties was never

omitted, divine service being performed every Sunday that the weather

would permit: at which time the detachment of marines paraded with their

arms, the whole body of convicts attended, and were observed to conduct

themselves in general with the respect and attention due to the occasion

on which they were assembled.

It was soon observed with satisfaction, that several couples were

announced for marriage; but on strictly scrutinizing into the motive, it

was found in several instances to originate in an idea, that the married

people would meet with various little comforts and privileges that were

denied to those in a single state; and some, on not finding those

expectations realised, repented, wished and actually applied to be

restored to their former situations; so ignorant and thoughtless were

they in general. It was however to be wished, that matrimonial connexions

should be promoted among them; and none who applied were ever rejected,

except when it was clearly understood that either of the parties had a

wife or husband living at the time of their leaving England.

The weather during the latter end of January and the month of February

was very close, with rain, at times very heavy, and attended with much

thunder and lightning. In the night of the 6th February, six sheep, two

lambs, and one pig, belonging chiefly to the lieutenant-governor, having

been placed at the foot of a large tree, were destroyed by the lightning.

But accidents of this kind were rather to be expected than wondered at,

until the woods around us could be opened and cleared.

An Account of the English Colony in New South Wales, Volume 1 With Remarks on the Dispositions, Customs, Manners, Etc. of The Native Inhabitants of That Country. to Which Are Added, Some Particulars of New Zealand; Compiled, By Permission, From The Mss. of Lieutenant-Governor King. · 第 1 / 34 章