MY LAST DAYS IN RUSSIA
The suggestion was made that I should remain at Ostrolenka until I was
cured; and as it was obvious that this would mean a long time I declined
the intended kindness, and begged to be sent home at once. Accordingly I
was furnished with passes, and a free permit to travel, and sent to
Bialystok on the 10th May. Although this place is only eighty versts
from Ostrolenka, it took the train a whole day to reach it. We were
continually being run into sidings to permit troop-and store-trains to
pass. Troops were being hurried to the front in thousands; and Bialystok
was crowded with what appeared to be a whole army corps.
The authorities were too busy to attend to me, and I lay in the station
all night. The next morning a police official took me to some barracks,
where I was well fed and my injuries attended to. On the 12th I was
taken in an ambulance to the Grodno-Vilno terminus (there are five
railway termini in Bialystok) and put into a train full of wounded
soldiers bound for Petrograd. The distance to Vilna from Bialystok is
about 170 versts: it took us thirty-nine hours to perform it.
I left the train at Vilna; but there was nobody there to help me in any
way. Officials looked at my paper and pointed this way and that, but
gave me no real help. I had to go into the town to purchase food and a
few necessaries. The city was even more crowded by troops than
Bialystok. It is another great railway centre; and to all appearance
soldiers were arriving from all parts of the vast empire. Many of the
regiments were Siberians.
While in the streets I was interfered with a good deal by the police;
but my papers were always found to be satisfactory. English gold created
much amazement among the tradesmen; but I succeeded in passing several
sovereigns.
On the 15th I bought my own ticket to Riga; but I did not succeed in
finding a train to that place until the morning of the 16th. From Vilna
to Riga is about 200 English miles. I entered the train early in the
morning. There were only four passenger-cars: the remainder, a dozen, or
fourteen, in number, were goods vans and trucks. In the carriage I
selected, the only passengers were three men and a woman.
I was so tired that I went to sleep soon after I had sat down, and when
I awoke the train was just starting. It was then nearly evening, so we
had been standing outside the station nearly all day. I dozed at
frequent intervals: and so did the train: that is, it stopped, on an
average, about every half-hour; but very seldom at a station.
When morning broke I eagerly looked out of the carriage-window. The
prospect was a wide plain, with only odd trees on it, and houses
scattered about between two villages. I had no idea of our locality,
but had hoped we were nearing Riga. Of this, however, there were no
signs, and I muttered my disappointment. My fellow-passengers looked at
me curiously, but did not speak. So far I had not heard the sounds of
their voices, and I have noticed that foreigners on a journey, as a
rule, are not more talkative than English people.
Two hours later we arrived at Dunaburg, which is a large town and a
considerable railway centre. It was crowded by soldiers; and field
artillery were entraining in large numbers. Two passengers got out of
the carriage here, and six others entered; but when we started again I
do not think there were more than twenty people in the whole train. The
population of the country was evidently not fleeing coastwise.
We were backed into a siding and kept there six hours. During the night
we were more often stationary than moving, and at daybreak on the
morning of the 18th were still only crawling along the line. At several
small stations the train was stopped to be overhauled by police
officials. They closely questioned all the passengers. When it was
discovered that I could not speak much Russian, I was at once, and very
roughly and rudely, hauled on to the platform; and my papers read and
reread several times; and vised by a police officer. Then I was
permitted to re-enter the train, and proceed on my journey.
As we ran slowly onward I saw several large encampments of troops in the
fields by the side of the line; and hundreds of men were being drilled
and exercised. Many of them had so awkward a bearing as to suggest that
they had had no previous training: and I saw sufficient, during my stay
in Russia, to show that the State is too poor to embody and instruct the
whole of her male population. I do not believe, indeed, that more than
half the conscripts are trained. This would not be an unmixed evil if
the men were selected, as they are supposed to be, and the most fit
draughted to military service; but I think there is a great deal of
substitution, rich men finding substitutes. This cannot be otherwise
than bad for the service.
We arrived at Riga at midnight on the 18th, and I was again subjected to
the usual police examination and cross-questioning. Here, however, I
found several officials who could speak English quite fluently, and so I
had no difficulty in making my wishes known, but was given the
disquieting assurance that there was no prospect whatever of my being
able to leave the Baltic.
It was rapidly becoming a matter of life or death for me to get home. I
was so ill and exhausted that I could only stand with difficulty; and my
funds were running so short that I could bear the expenses of living at
an hotel for only a few days. Having received permission, therefore, I
went down to the wharves with a policeman to look for a boat, the
regular packets having ceased running.
I do not think that my further movements can have much interest; but I
may just state that all I could do at Riga was to persuade a fisherman
to run me over to Gothland for the sum of twenty roubles. The little
voyage of about 200 miles was commenced on Thursday the 20th May, and
was performed in much trepidation for fear of the German cruisers,
several of which were reported to be in this part of the Baltic--I do
not know on what grounds. We saw nothing of them; and arrived at
Slitehaum soon after daybreak on the 23rd, the winds having been against
us during a great part of the voyage.
At Slitehaum I took the train to Wisby, after some trouble with the
local officials, the inevitable thing, it seems to me, in all
Continental travel. My papers, contrary to my wishes, had been retained
by the Russian police at Riga; and they had given me a passport which
did not seem to be quite satisfactory to the Custom-house officer at
Gothland. He was much exercised in mind by the lack of the usual
impedimenta of a traveller, and accepted my explanations with palpable
suspicion. After a delay of four hours, he permitted me to proceed; and
on reaching Wisby I took the Swedish packet-boat to Stockholm.
At Riga I had persuaded the police to enter me on the passport as an
American: not quite a straight-forward thing to do, perhaps, but a _ruse
de guerre_ which, I think, the circumstances in which I was placed fully
justified.
I am not a prophet, nor am I going to set myself up as one. I do not
know how long the war is going to last--_it depends on circumstances_.
If the Germans get the run of corn-growing Russia, and the Allies
generally do not materially increase their _go_ and their _forces_, it
will last for years. Properly set about, it might end with this year. It
is not being properly set about. I do not presume to say what military
action should be taken; but the supply of Germany with food and material
is of the first importance to her, and should be put a peremptory stop
to. There are those who will argue that, because Germany sinks neutral
ships, it follows that the neutrals who suffer must necessarily be
Germany's enemies. This is a mistake. The idea entertained is that
"accidents will happen," and the sufferers believe that in the end,
Germany, or Britain, will recompense them. I exempt the United States
from this attitude; but their case is peculiar. In the first place, they
are very anxious to keep out of European complications: they have also a
large German population, including those of Teutonic extraction; and
some of those highly placed in America have Germanic tendencies and
sympathies.
I will not enter further into the political aspect of this Great War:
and concerning the military outlook I have but to note that the British
losses alone amount to a far greater number than the entire English Army
consisted of on the day war broke out, to convince every thinking man
that we are in a very serious position: and that the fate of this vast
empire cannot be left to weak drafts erratically raised, which, however
heroic their bravery, are not powerful enough to meet the situation with
a full assurance of that victory without which no sane Englishman ought
to be satisfied. To put 500,000 men into the field, and keep their
numbers up to 500,000, cannot possibly have the same effect as putting
1,000,000 face to face with the enemy in the first place: and 1,000,000
cannot have a _fourth_ of the striking-power 2,000,000 would have. There
is a progressive ratio in the numbers of a military force: a fact that
is too often overlooked: and bringing them up in driblets can only
result in their being beaten in detail. One strong blow has more real
efficacy than a dozen weak ones; and in military affairs the full force
should be used at the very commencement of hostilities.
At the moment of writing Germany is gaining ground, not losing it: and
her own territory is absolutely free of invaders. While this state of
things exists, no man, expert or otherwise, can predict the ultimate end
of the war. A single _accident_ might have very wide-reaching and very
terrible effects.
From Stockholm I went to Gothenburg; and there decided that my best way
of reaching England was to take a passage on a Swedish ice-ship which I
found to be on the point of sailing for Gravesend. However, when we got
off the Dogger Bank we ran amongst a fleet of Hull trawlers; and I
forsook the Swede for a British fishing-boat, which landed me at Hull,
"stone-broke," in more ways than one. I was almost too ill to stand; and
when I arrived home I found my house empty. Not one letter of the many I
wrote while in Poland reached my family; and one I posted in Sweden did
not reach England until three days after my own arrival in my native
land. My wife supposed that I was a prisoner in Germany, or dead; and
few of my friends expected to see me again. One of the first I went to
in search of my wife did not know me, so ragged and woebegone was my
appearance. A little rest has done wonders towards restoring my usual
health and strength; but I am given to understand that it will be a long
time before I am able to use my feet; and some sharp twinges of
rheumatism from which I suffer indicate that old boys are not quite so
fit for campaigning as young ones. I hope many of the youngsters will
take the hint.
There has been some suppression of the names of places and localities in
this book, and a few other precautions have been taken in its
construction. It must be remembered that the war is far from over yet,
and that there is an obligation on all writers to be careful not to deal
too freely with facts and incidents of some kinds. It may be scarcely
necessary to mention this; but in case a certain amount of reticence may
be noticed in a few places, it is as well to give a reason for it. I am
not a practised writer; and I have, in some matters, followed the advice
of those who are better qualified to judge what should, and what should
not, be put into a book. But I have told my own tale, and told it in my
own way; and I hope it will be found to merit some attention as the
unvarnished story of an eye-witness.
THE END