CHAPTER X

MEETING HIGH AND LOW IN EUROPE

I have gotten an education by meeting all classes of people in the

United States. I have been fortunate in getting much education by coming

into contact with different classes of people in Europe.

In the course of my journey across Europe I visited, in the fall of

1910, the ancient city of Cracow, the former capital of Poland. It was

evening when we reached our destination, and, as we had been travelling

all day without sighting an American or any one who spoke English, I

began to feel more at sea than I had ever felt before in my life. I was

a little surprised, therefore, as I was getting out of the omnibus, to

hear some one say in an unmistakable American accent: “Excuse me, but

isn’t this Booker T. Washington?”

I replied that it was, and added that I was very glad to hear that kind

of a voice in this remote corner of Europe. In a few minutes I was

exchanging notes with a man who once lived, he said, in the same part of

the country I came from, in West Virginia. He had come originally from

Poland and was, I suspect, a Polish Jew, one of that large number of

returned immigrants whom one meets in every part of Eastern and Southern

Europe.

The next day I met a very intelligent American lady, though of Polish

origin, who turned out to be the wife of the Polish count who was the

owner and proprietor of the hotel. It was this lady who advised me to go

and visit, while I was in Cracow, the tomb of the Polish patriot,

Kosciuszko, whose name I had learned in school as one of those

revolutionary heroes who, when there was no longer any hope of liberty

for their own people in the old world, had crossed the seas to help

establish it in the new.

I knew from my school history what Kosciuszko had done for America in

its early struggle for independence. I did not know, however, until my

attention was called to it in Cracow, what Kosciuszko had done for the

freedom and education of my own people.

After his second visit to this country in 1797 Kosciuszko, I learned,

made a will in which he bequeathed part of his property in this country

in trust to Thomas Jefferson to be used for the purpose of purchasing

the freedom of Negro slaves and giving them instruction in the trades

and otherwise.

Seven years after his death a school of Negroes, known as the Kosciuszko

school, was established in Newark, N. J. The sum left for the benefit of

this school amounted to thirteen thousand dollars.

The Polish patriot is buried in the cathedral at Cracow, which is the

Westminster Abbey of Poland, and is filled with memorials of the

honoured names of that country. Kosciuszko lies in a vault beneath the

marble floor of the cathedral. As I looked upon his tomb I thought how

small the world is after all, and how curiously interwoven are the

interests that bind people together. Here I was in this strange land,

farther from my home than I had ever expected to be in my life, and yet

I was paying my respects to a man to whom the members of my race owed

one of the first permanent schools for them in the United States.

When I visited the tomb of Kosciuszko I placed a rose on it in the name

of my race.

A few days later I took a day’s journey by train and wagon into a remote

part of the country districts of Poland in order to see something of the

more primitive peasant life of that region. Away up in the mountains we

stopped at a little group of thatched-roof cottages. As I wanted to see

what their homes looked like inside, I knocked at the door of one of

them and made some inquiry or other in English, not expecting to get a

reply that I could understand. I was surprised to hear a man answer me

in fairly good English. He told me that he had lived for a long time in

Detroit, Mich. My companion, Dr. Robert E. Park, who had also lived in

that city, was soon talking familiarly with him about a famous rebel

priest, Kolisinski, who had been a leader of the Polish colony in that

city.

A week before that I had visited, in the wildest part of Sicily, the

sulphur mines of Campo Franco. In the deepest part of these mines I

discovered a man who had been a miner in West Virginia, in the same

region in which, years before, I had myself learned to mine coal.

These incidents were characteristic of a kind of experience I had

everywhere in Europe. In the most remote parts of the country, where I

expected to meet people who had, perhaps, never heard of America, I

found people who not only spoke my own language, but welcomed me almost

as a fellow countryman. All this led me to realize, as I had not been

able to do before, the close and intimate way in which the life, the

problems, and the people of Europe were touching and influencing

America. But it led me also to notice and study the curious and to me

surprising reflex influence of America on Europe.

I have made in all three visits to Europe. On my first visit, a number

of years ago, I made the journey with no very definite purpose in mind.

I kept in the main line of travel and saw what I may call the polite and

official side of life in England and some portions of the continent. In

London, for example, I was entertained by the American ambassador, Hon.

Joseph H. Choate, had the privilege of attending one of the queen’s

luncheons at Windsor Castle, and made the acquaintance of Hon. James

Bryce, the present ambassador to the United States, besides meeting a

number of distinguished men whose names were familiar to me in

connection with some important phase of the world’s work in which they

were engaged.

On my last trip I made up my mind to leave, as far as possible, the main

highways of travel and see something of the condition of the poorer

people, whose lives are neither polite nor picturesque nor pleasant to

look at. My purpose in making this trip was to compare, as far as I was

able, the condition of the masses of my own people in this country with

the masses of the people in Europe, who are in relatively the same

situation in political and economic opportunity. I believed that if the

black people in America knew something of the burdens and difficulties

under which the masses of the people in Europe live and work they would

see that their own situation was by no means so hopeless as they have

been sometimes taught to believe.

I had another reason for desiring to get acquainted with the situation

of people at the bottom in Europe. For a number of years I have been

convinced that there is a very intimate relation between the work I have

been trying to do at Tuskegee Institute for the masses of the Negroes in

the South and the work that was being done for the poorer classes of the

people in the different parts of Europe. Different as has been the

history of the black man in the South and the white man in Europe, there

were, I was convinced, many points in which the life of the one would

compare with the life of the other. In the case of the Negro we have a

black people struggling up from slavery to freedom: in the other case we

have a white man making his way upward through a milder form of

subjection and servitude to a position of political and economic

independence; and, in each case, the means by which the long journey has

been made, in the one instance by a race, in the other by a class, has

been, in many respects, the same.

But aside from all that, I was interested in these people for their own

sake. An individual or a race that has come up from slavery cannot but

feel a peculiar interest and sympathy with any other individual or race

that has travelled that same journey or any part of it.

I arrived in London in the late summer. At that time all the polite

world, all the distinguished and all the wealthy people, were away in

some other part of the world upon their vacations, and the city, as far

as these people were concerned, was like a winter residence which had

been closed for the summer. But the other six million, whose

acquaintance I had determined to make upon this trip, were there.

In one way or another I saw a good deal of the life of the poorer

classes, particularly in that vast region inhabited almost wholly by

people of the poorer and working classes, which goes under the name of

East London. I tramped about at night, visiting the darkest corners of

the city I could find. One night I interviewed, on the Thames

Embankment, those dreary outcasts of the great city who wander up and

down the bank of the river all day and sleep upon the pavement at night.

At another time I visited the alehouses and the bar-rooms, where men and

women of the poorer classes congregate at night to drink and gossip. I

went several times to the police courts in some of the poorer parts of

the city, where I had a chance to observe the methods by which the

police courts of London deal with the failures and unfortunates of the

city who in one way or other fall into the hands of the police.

It had been my plan to give as large a part of my time as possible to

getting acquainted with the working classes in the farming regions of

Austria, Italy, and Denmark.

To a certain extent the condition of the urban labourers in London

connected itself in my mind with the condition of the rural population

in other countries I have mentioned, since London represents the largest

city population in the world, and England is the country in which the

masses of the people have been most completely detached from the land,

while Austria, Italy, and Denmark are distinctly agricultural countries,

and leaving out Russia, represent the parts of Europe where the people,

to a greater extent than elsewhere, live close to the soil.

It is impossible for me to describe in detail what I learned in regard

to the condition of the masses of the people in the different parts of

Europe I visited. As a rule I suppose the man on the soil has always

represented the most backward and neglected portion of the population.

This class has everywhere, until recent years, had fewer opportunities

for education than the similar classes in the cities and, where the

people who tilled the soil have not succeeded in getting possession of

the soil—as is especially true in certain parts of Austria-Hungary and

lower Italy—they have remained in a condition of greater or less

subjection to the landowning classes. In lower Italy, where the masses

of the farming population have neither land nor schools, they have

remained in a position not far removed from slavery. In Denmark, on the

contrary, where the farming class is, for the most part, made up of

independent landowners, not only has agriculture been more thoroughly

developed and organized than elsewhere, but farmers are a dominating

influence in the political life of the country.

In England, which is the home of political liberty, the working classes

have all the political privileges of other Englishmen, although the bulk

of the land is in the hands of a comparatively few landowners. On the

other hand, the majority of the labourers in the cities have not

increased their economic independence. In fact, the English city

labourer, from all that I could observe, seemed to be in a position of

greater dependence upon his employer and upon the capitalist than is

true of any other country I visited.

I recall one incident of my stay in London which emphasized this fact in

my mind: I noticed one day a man who was standing, with his hands in his

pockets, looking vaguely into the street, one of those types of the

casual labourer of whom one meets so many examples in London. I asked if

work was plentiful about this time of the year.

“No,” he replied. “It is hard to get anything to do, so many people are

out of town.”

This man looked to me like a dock labourer. I met him somewhere, I

think, on or near Mile End Road, in the East End, which is in the centre

of a district of over a million inhabitants made up entirely of working

people. I told him I could not understand how the absence of a few

hundred or a few thousand individuals from a great city like London

could make much difference to him. “It makes a great difference, sir,”

he replied. “Everything seems to stop when they go away.”

This man was, to be sure, a casual labourer, one who had, perhaps, been

crowded out by competition from the regular avenues of employment. But

there is an enormous number of these casual labourers in England. They

seem to be a product of the system.

[Illustration:

TOMPKINS MEMORIAL HALL, HAMPTON INSTITUTE

In the Tompkins Memorial Hall 1700 students during the school term

take their meals three times daily. The building cost approximately

$175,000, and is the largest building on the Institute Grounds.

]

[Illustration:

TRADE SCHOOL AT HAMPTON INSTITUTE

]

A week or ten days later I met at Skibo Castle in the Highlands of

Scotland, Lord John Morley, at that time secretary of state for India.

During the time that I was there the question of the condition of the

labouring classes was several times touched upon in conversation and

some reference was made to the condition I have referred to. I recall

that Lord Morley listened to the discussion for some time without making

any comment. Then he said very positively that, in spite of all that had

been said, the English labourer was, in his opinion, in a greatly better

position to-day than he had ever been before in his history. I was the

more impressed with this statement because it came from a man who has a

world-wide reputation as a scholar and a writer, and who is at the same

time a member of what is the most democratic government that has ever

ruled in England, a government, also, that has sought to do more than

any other to improve the living conditions of the labouring classes.

The experience I had among the poorer classes in London helped me to

realize, as I had not done before, the opportunity that the Negro, in

spite of the discriminations and injustices from which he suffers, has

in America to-day, and particularly in the Southern States, where there

is still opportunity to get land, to live in God’s open country and in

contact with simple, natural things, compared with that of the people in

the crowded English cities, where hundreds of thousands of them live

practically from hand to mouth and where one tenth of the population,

according to an investigation some years ago, are living either in

poverty or on the edge of destitution.

At the present moment the national government, in conjunction with the

city of London, is spending immense sums of money in laying out parks,

in building public baths, model tenements and lodging houses in some of

the poorer quarters of the city. Better than all else, they are building

out in the suburbs, on some of the vacant land outside the city,

beautiful garden cities, rows and rows of model houses, each with its

little garden in front of it, and each provided with every convenience

that modern invention and science can suggest to make it healthful,

convenient, and comfortable. As a result of this improvement, thousands

of working people are being removed every year from the dark, gloomy,

and unhealthy regions of the overcrowded city to these free, open

spaces, where they have an opportunity to get in contact with God’s free

air and sunlight.

I confess that I marvelled at the time and interest and money that have

been expended not only by the government, but by the philanthropic

people of London, in attempting to ameliorate and to raise the level of

life among the poorer working classes. I am convinced that if one half

or one tenth of the money, interest, and sympathy that have been

expended for the education and uplifting of the poorer classes in London

were spent upon the Negro in the South, the race problem in our country

would be practically solved.

After visiting London, I went, as I have said, to Austria and spent some

time in the city of Prague, in Bohemia; in Vienna, Austria, and

Budapest, Hungary. While there I had opportunity several times to go out

into the country districts and see something of the condition of the

farm labourers. From there I went to Sicily. I saw something of the

condition of the small farmers in the region of Palermo. I visited the

sulphur mines at Campo Franco in the mountainous region of the interior.

I passed several days at Catania and saw the grape harvest and the men

bare-legged treading the wine in the same way I have read in the Bible.

From there I returned and passed several days in Austrian Poland and

visited the salt mines. I went out into the country districts and saw

the condition of the people in the small country towns in the region

around Cracow. I crossed the frontier into Russian Poland and visited a

Russian village. From there I went to Copenhagen and gained new

acquaintance with the wonderful things that have been accomplished in

the way of organizing and developing agricultural life in that little

state.

In thinking over all that I saw and learned during my trip abroad, it

seemed to me that I could clearly discern, in all those parts of Europe

where the people are most backward, the signs of a great, silent

revolution. Everywhere, with perhaps the exception of lower Italy and

Sicily, I thought I could see that the man at the bottom was making his

way upward and, in doing so, was lifting the level of civilization.

Directly and indirectly this revolution has, to a very considerable

extent, been brought about through the influence of the United States.

For example, one of the results of the opening up of the great grain

fields in the central part of the United States was to break up the

whole system of agriculture in every part of Europe where the products

of American agriculture come in competition with those of Europe. It was

this same competition with American agriculture that provoked the

immigration from Austria, Hungary, and southern Italy. I found that

wherever the condition of farm labour was particularly bad in Southern

Europe the emigration from that part of Europe to America was especially

large and increasing. On the other hand, in Denmark, where the

agricultural crisis had been overcome by more intensive and intelligent

methods of farming, emigration to the United States had almost ceased.

A secondary effect has been to bring about a reorganization of

agriculture in such a way as to improve the condition of the farmer. In

several countries efforts have been made to break up the large estates

and increase the number of small landowners. There has been a very

general improvement in the character of the rural schools. The states of

Europe, having discovered that their rural population is one of the most

important of the natural resources, have begun to take practical

measures to educate and improve the neglected masses.

To a large extent it seemed to me that the older civilization had been

built up on the ignorance and the oppression of the masses of the people

who were at the bottom. The welfare of the few was obtained at the

expense of the many. On the other hand, at the present time, wherever

any of these countries are successful and are making progress, they are

seeking to do so, not by oppressing and holding down the masses of the

people, but by building them up, making them more intelligent, more

independent, better able to think and care for themselves.

It was, first of all, the competition with America which brought this

result about. It was, in the second place, the contact of the masses of

the people with life in America which has made the change. I met

everywhere in Southern Europe, among the labouring classes of the

people, those who had been to America and who had returned. Frequently

they had returned with money which they had earned at common labour in

America, and had bought and improved property. The number of small

landowners has increased greatly in Hungary, Poland, and in southern

Italy as the result of the emigration to America. These people came

back, sometimes with money, but always with new ideas and new ambitions.

They refused to work for the same wages that they had previously worked

for. The result was that the price of farm labour has greatly increased,

both in Italy and in other parts of Southern Europe.

On the other hand, this compelled the greater use of farm machinery,

compelled more intensive and rational methods of agriculture. But

nowhere did I find, as some people had expected, that this emigration

had had a deterrent effect upon the development of the country. For the

labouring masses, particularly in the rural parts of Southern Europe,

the journey to America has been a sort of higher education; it has

taught them not only to work better and more efficiently, but to have

confidence in themselves and to hope and believe in a better future for

themselves and their children. In this way the silent revolution to

which I refer in Europe has come about.

Now if there is any lesson to be drawn from these facts, it seems to me

it is this: that more and more, at the present day, education must take

the place of force in the affairs of men. The world is changing. The

greatest nation to-day is not the nation with the greatest army, not the

nation that can destroy the most, but the nation with the most efficient

labourers and the most productive machinery; the nation that can produce

the most.

But if labour is to be efficient, it must be trained and it must be

free. The school teacher to-day is more important to the state than the

soldier, and the aim of the highest statesmanship should be the

improvement not so much of the army as of the school.

Although I started out on my last visit to Europe with the determination

of getting acquainted with the people at the bottom and made that my

main business while I was there, I did, incidentally, have opportunity

to see something, also, of the people at the top. In fact, some of the

pleasantest and most profitable moments I had during my stay in Europe

were those spent in conversation with people who were either interested

or actively engaged in some kind of public service which connected

itself with the work that I have been trying to do for my own people in

America.

For example, I made the acquaintance through my friend, Mr. Jacob Riis,

of Mr. V. Cavling, the editor of one of the most important papers in

Denmark, the _Politiken_. It was largely through him that I was able to

see and learn as much as I did, during the short time that I was there,

of the life of the country people and of the remarkable schools that

have been established for their benefit in the country districts. While

I was in Copenhagen I was introduced by the American ambassador, Mr.

Maurice F. Egan, to the king and queen of Denmark. I learned to my

surprise that their majesties were perfectly familiar with the work that

we are doing at Tuskegee and I found them anxious to talk with me about

the possibility of a similar work for the Negroes in the Danish West

India Islands, where there are about thirty thousand people of African

descent. The queen told me that she had read not only my earlier book

“Up From Slavery,” but the volume I had just completed, “The Story of

the Negro.” What surprised me most was to find the king and queen of

Denmark so much better informed in regard to the actual condition and

progress of the Negro in America than so many Americans I have met.

At another time I was the guest of Mr. Andrew Carnegie at his summer

home in Scotland. Three of the most interesting and restful days I have

ever had were spent at Skibo Castle. Although Skibo is situated in the

wildest and most Northern part of Scotland, farther removed from the

world, it seemed to me, than any other place I had ever visited, I never

felt nearer the centre of things than I did while I was there.

All kinds of people find their way to Skibo Castle, and apparently any

one who has something really valuable to contribute to the world’s

welfare or progress finds a welcome there.

Naturally, among guests of that sort, conversation and discussion took a

wide range. For three days I had an opportunity of hearing great world

questions discussed familiarly by men who knew them at first hand. At

the time that I met Lord John Morley at Skibo Castle he was still

secretary of state for India. I had never been able to get any definite

conception, from what I had read in the newspapers, of the actual

situation as between the two races in India, the English and the native

Indians, and I was very glad to hear Lord Morley comment on that

puzzling and perplexing problem. What he said about the matter was the

more interesting because he was able to draw parallels between racial

conditions in the Eastern and the Western world, between the Indians in

India and the Negroes in the United States.

After I returned from the south of Europe I made two addresses in

London, one under the auspices of the Anti-slavery and Aborigines

Protection Society, and the other at the National Liberal Club. At these

meetings I had an opportunity to see face to face people who, as

missionaries, writers, or government officials, had, both in Africa and

at home, laboured for the welfare and the salvation of the members of my

race in parts of the world I had never seen.

For example, at the luncheon given me under the auspices of the

Anti-slavery and Aborigines Protection Society, Sir T. Folwell Buxton,

grandson of the noted abolitionist and statesman who did so much for the

abolition of slavery in the British West Indies, was the presiding

officer.

It happened that, at this time, the Society of Friends, which has been

from the beginning to the present day, both in England and America, the

best friend the Negro has ever had, was holding its annual meeting, and

many of the members of this sect were present the day I spoke. Among

others I remember who have distinguished themselves by what they have

done for the Negro in Africa were Sir Harry H. Johnston, the noted

African explorer; Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Mr. E. D. Morel, and Rev. J.

H. Harris, secretary of the Anti-slavery and Aborigines Protection

Society, all of whom have had so large a part in the struggle to bring

about reform in the Congo Free State.

Among the many pleasant surprises of this luncheon were a large number

of letters from distinguished persons who were unable to be present.

Among them, I remember, was a very cordial note from the Prime Minister

of England, the Rt. Hon. Herbert Henry Asquith, and among others were

two from distinguished personal friends which expressed so generous an

appreciation of the work I have attempted to do that I am tempted to

reproduce them here. These letters were addressed to John H. Harris,

secretary of the Anti-Slavery and Aborigines Protection Society, and

were as follows:

SKIBO CASTLE,

DORNECH

SUTHERLAND,

SEPT. 19th, 1910.

DEAR MR. HARRIS:

I regret exceedingly to miss any opportunity of doing honor to one of

the greatest men living, Booker Washington. Taking into account his

start in life, born a slave, and now the acknowledged leader of his

people, I do not know a parallel to the ascent he has made. He has

marched steadily upward to undisputed leadership, carrying with this

the confidence and approval of the white race, and winning the warm

friendship of its foremost members—a double triumph.

Booker Washington is to rank with the few immortals as one who has not

only shown his people the promised land, but is teaching them to prove

themselves worthy of it—a Joshua and Moses combined.

Very truly yours,

(Signed) ANDREW CARNEGIE.

The other letter, from the Archbishop of Canterbury, was as follows:

‘It is a great disappointment to me that paramount engagements far

away from London render it impossible for me to be present at the

gathering which is to give greeting and Godspeed to Mr. Booker T.

Washington’s acquaintance, and I share with all those who know the

facts, the appreciation of the services he has rendered and is

rendering to the solution of one of the gravest and most perplexing

problems of our time. He is a man who, in every sense, deserves well

of his contemporaries, and I believe that, when hereafter the story is

written of Christian people’s endeavor in our day to atone for and to

amend the racial wrongdoing of the past, Mr. Booker T. Washington’s

name will stand in the very forefront of those for whom the world will

give thanks.’

It was a great pleasure and satisfaction to me to meet and speak to

these distinguished people and the many others whom I met while I was in

London. What impressed me through it all was the wide outlook which they

had upon the world and its problems. Questions which we in America are

inclined to look upon as local and peculiar to our own country assume in

the eyes of Englishmen whose interests are not confined to any single

country or continent the character of world problems. I learned in

England to see that the race problem in the United States is, as Mr.

Herbert Samuels, the English postmaster-general said, “a problem which

faces all countries in which races of a widely divergent type are living

side by side.”

The success of the Negro in America and the progress which has been made

here in the solution of the racial problem gained wider and deeper

meaning for me as a result of my visit to Europe.

My larger education · 第 10 / 12 章