CHAPTER XXXIV

ARGENTINA: PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Argentina is oftenest thought of as a country of broad plains, but

while a large portion of the country is of this character there are

three distinct sections: the Mountains, the Plateau, and the Plains,

with several subdivisions.

MOUNTAINS

We know that the Andes form the western boundary of the country for

the entire distance from north to south, and that some of the loftiest

summits including the highest, Aconcagua, are in Argentine territory;

but east of the great Cordillera, which as already noted is less steep

on this than on the Chilian side, are other ranges of the same and

other systems. Two or three extend from the Bolivian plateau, and

farther down spurs run out from the main chain. In Córdoba are three

ranges separate from the Andes, with one peak above 9000 feet; a peak

in San Luis is over 7000. Near the sea in the Province of Buenos Aires,

are low mountains, mere hills in comparison, one reaching a height of

4000 feet; and in Misiones are spurs from the Brazilian Coast Range,

the highest a hill about 1300 feet.

PLATEAUS

There are plateaus in the north among the mountains, but the

distinctive Plateau Region is in what used to be called Patagonia, a

name not so much employed in Argentina as formerly. This section is

arranged in terraces, falling from the Andes to the east, the western

part called the Plateau, having an altitude of 2000-500 feet; near the

sea it goes from the latter figure to sea level. The Plateau has many

sterile plains, some strewn with boulders, others with dunes of sand;

also good grazing and forest land, and some suitable for farming.

=Lakes.= The Andine lakes in the Patagonia section are of glacial

origin, with much scenic beauty. One of these, Nahuel-Huapi, 40 miles

long, is said to be 1000 feet deep. Lake Buenos Aires, partly in Chile,

is 75 miles long. The lakes number more than 400; at the north are many

swampy lagoons.

PLAINS

The plains, once under the sea, and now for the most part less than

500 feet above it with a very gradual rise from the ocean to the

Andes, extend from the Pilcomayo River, the boundary line with Western

Paraguay, on the north, to the Rio Negro on the south. The northern

part belongs to the Gran Chaco, swampy and partly wooded, with so

slight a southeastward slope that large spaces are regularly flooded

in the rainy season. South of the Bermejo River which is parallel with

the Pilcomayo, the land is higher, some of it 800 feet above the sea,

and the forests are heavier; but there are still marshy lagoons. Then

come open grassy plains with occasional salt pans. The section between

the Paraná and Uruguay Rivers, called the Argentine Mesopotamia, in

Corrientes at the north is of somewhat similar character, but has

higher land in Entre Rios at the south. The remainder of the plain

is the real Pampa, the part west of the Paraná River and below that

extending to the ocean, mainly, treeless and grassy. It includes the

Provinces of Buenos Aires, Santa Fé, Córdoba, San Luis, Mendoza, and

the Territory Pampa Central. In the far west is a depressed region

containing some lakes and swamps with no outlet, but with too little

rain.

RIVERS

The rivers of Argentina are of great importance, being navigable for

immense distances. Chief among them are those of the System of La

Plata, this river being formed by the union of the Paraná and the

Uruguay: a great river indeed, the outflow of water being 80 per cent

more than that of the Mississippi, and the drainage basin covering

1,500,000 square miles. The Paraguay, Pilcomayo, Bermejo, Salado del

Norte, Iguassú, and many others belong to this basin. The Iguassú,

though not navigable except for a mile from the Paraná, is world famed

for its magnificent waterfall, surpassing Niagara in height, width, and

most of the year in volume of water; while it is rendered altogether

incomparable by the extraordinary beauty of its setting.

The =Plata River=, 250 miles long, is much like a gulf, having a width

of over 100 miles at its mouth between Capes Santa Maria in Uruguay

and San Antonio in the Province of Buenos Aires. The Paraná River

with many tributaries has two principal sources well up in Brazil

and a total length of 2600 miles, about one half in or on the border

of Argentine territory. At first flowing south it turns west between

Argentina and Paraguay, and after receiving the Paraguay River again

flows south in Argentina. From January to September, nine months, it is

open to trans-Atlantic steamers to Rosario; for 6000 ton vessels, 12

foot draft, to Paraná or Colastiné, the port of Santa Fé; for smaller

steamers up the Alto Paraná nearly to the Falls of La Guayra, a little

above the northeast extremity of Argentina. Steamers of 7 foot draft go

up the Paraguay to Asunción and smaller steamers to Corumbá in Matto

Grosso, Brazil, 2000 miles from Buenos Aires, and beyond to Cuyabá.

Forty-two miles up stream from Buenos Aires is Ibicuy, a port where a

steam ferry operates, carrying trains to and from Zarate on the Buenos

Aires side.

A few small streams flow into lagoons with no outlet; a number in the

Buenos Aires Province flow into the Atlantic. Farther south are rivers

of more importance, among these the Rio Negro and the Colorado, the

only ones of this section easily and regularly navigable.

CLIMATE

The climate of Argentina naturally varies on account of its wide range

of latitude, as well as from increasing altitude in the mountainous

section. The prevailing winds, the mountain barriers, and the sea

also modify the climate in restricted locations. The conditions of

temperature and rainfall are different from those in the northern

hemisphere. Thus Tierra del Fuego and the south main land are more

habitable than corresponding latitudes in Labrador, partly by reason

of a southern equatorial current; it is an excellent region for sheep

raising. At the same time it is colder than at similar latitudes

of Western Europe, as the prevailing west winds are chilled by the

mountains.

In the Provinces of Buenos Aires, Mesopotamia, and Santa Fé the average

temperature in January is 72°, the maximum 97°-107°; the annual at the

Capital city is 62.6°, farther south 42°. In Buenos Aires it may rain

at any time, but the greatest precipitation is in the summer and fall.

In summer there is a land breeze by day and a sea breeze at night.

The north winds are hot and unhealthful, ending in violent storms.

Southwest winds, the _pamperos_, which are gales, sometimes hurricanes,

are invigorating. The central region has greater extremes of daily

heat and of annual temperature, the widest at Córdoba; Santiago is

the warmest of the Provinces. In the city of Buenos Aires the mercury

in summer may reach 107°; in winter it goes below freezing only a few

times, but there is a peculiar chill in the atmosphere which causes

strong men, who never did so in New York or Boston, to wear heavy

woolen underwear. The country has 200 meteorological stations.

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