CHAPTER XXIV

BOLIVIA: AREA, HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, POPULATION, ETC.

One of the two inland Republics of South America, Bolivia has an

enormous area, a section of which is still unexplored in detail. Its

chief towns situated on the lofty Andean plateau or a little over

its eastern edge, it seems wonderful indeed that here in the 16th

century, prior to the existence of New York or Boston, were populous,

wealthy cities, hundreds of miles from the coast and from the seat of

the Viceroy at Lima. In the present day, such a horseback ride across

country as was then and till within a half century common, would by

most persons be considered quite a feat, while a similar descent to the

Atlantic port of Buenos Aires, then not unusual, is an expedition that

would commend itself to few; though this crossing were to the Paraguay

River only, where a steamboat would be available for the remainder of

the journey.

AREA, POPULATION, BOUNDARY

=Area.= Bolivia, with an area variously given as 515,000 to 708,000

square miles, is generally counted third in size of the Republics.

Pending the settlement of the boundary dispute with Paraguay and more

accurate surveys, probably at least 600,000 may be conceded, a larger

territory than the entire Atlantic slope of the United States. Once

possessing a small coast line which included the port of Antofagasta,

Bolivia was deprived of this in 1883 at the close of the war with Chile.

=Population.= The number of inhabitants, mainly an estimate, has been

recently given as nearly 3,000,000. With about four persons to a

square mile, it is the most sparsely peopled of American Republics.

=Boundary.= At the north and east the country borders on Brazil.

Paraguay is at the southeast, Argentina directly south, and Chile and

Peru west.

HISTORY

Known by the name of Alto Peru, the country was ruled for nearly three

centuries by the Viceroy at Lima, and by a Royal Audience of four

men at Chuquisaca, now Sucre, the nominal capital of the Republic.

La Paz is noted as the seat of the earliest effort (July, 1809) in

South America for democratic government. Though abortive, it was the

inspiration of later struggles. The battle of Ayacucho in 1824, which

ended Spanish dominion over the continent, was followed by the entrance

into La Paz of General Sucre with his victorious army, February 7,

1825. The Act of Independence is dated August 6, 1825. The Republic

was named for Bolívar, who was elected President, while Chuquisaca was

made the capital with the name of Sucre. General Bolívar, inaugurated

in November, resigned in January, 1826, and was succeeded by General

Sucre, the first President who really served. More or less troublous

times followed until a war with Chile broke out in 1879 over the export

nitrate tax. At the conclusion of peace Bolivia lost the small coast

section of nitrate land, Antofagasta, which she previously possessed.

Since that time several revolutions have occurred, one in 1920, but

none affecting her credit, her foreign contracts, or the lives of the

people generally.

GOVERNMENT

Bolivia is in form a centralized republic and has the usual three

branches. The President, who with two Vice Presidents is elected for

four years, and is ineligible for a consecutive term, exercises almost

absolute authority, although Congress meets annually on the sixth

of August. The President’s Cabinet is composed of six Ministers:

of Foreign Relations and Worship, Interior and Justice, Treasury,

Promotion (Internal Improvements), Public Instruction and Agriculture,

and War and Colonization.

The Senate has 16 members, the Chamber of Deputies 72. The

administrators of the Departments and of the 63 Provinces, the Prefects

and the Sub-prefects respectively, are appointed by the President.

Municipal Councils regulate the local affairs of the cities. Suffrage

is enjoyed by male citizens over 21 (not domestics) who can read and

write, who have a fixed income of 200 bolivians, and whose names are

registered. The Supreme Court alone of the three branches of government

is located at the nominal capital Sucre. The Judiciary has a Supreme

Court with seven Judges, a Superior Court in each Department, and

Provincial and Parochial Courts.

The Republic comprises eight Departments and three Territories as

follows:

---------------------+---------+----------+-------------+----------+---------

DEPARTMENTS | AREA, |POPULATION| CAPITALS |POPULATION|ALTITUDE,

|in square| | | | in

| miles | | | | feet

---------------------+---------+----------+-------------+----------+---------

La Paz | 73,000| 734,000| La Paz | 107,000 | 12,005

Oruro | 27,000| 137,000| Oruro | 31,000 | 12,178

Potosí | 57,000| 515,000| Potosí | 30,000 | 13,251

Cochabamba | 36,000| 512,600| Cochabamba | 35,000 | 8,387

Chuquisaca | 37,000| 320,000| Sucre | 30,000 | 9,328

Tarija | 31,000| 160,000| Tarija | 11,600 | 6,248

Santa Cruz | 140,000| 327,000| Santa Cruz | 25,000 | 1,450

El Beni | 95,000| 50,000| Trinidad | 6,000 | 774

| | | | |

TERRITORIES | | | | |

Colonias del Noroeste| 81,000| 50,000| Riberalta | 3,200 |

Colonias del Gran | | | | |

Chaco | 60,000| 23,000| Villa Montes| 970 |

Delegación Nacional | | | | |

en el Oriente | | |Puerto Suarez| |

---------------------+---------+----------+-------------+----------+---------

POPULATION

The population of Bolivia, about 2,800,000, as in Peru is in three

classes: the whites, numbering possibly 500,000, Indians and mestizos

most of the rest, the Indians largely in the majority, though there

are more than half a million mestizos. A few thousand are negroes.

Since the coming of the Spaniards centuries ago, there has been no

real immigration, the mass of the people thus continuing Indian. The

whites, many of whom have some admixture of Indian blood, are of course

the ruling class. An aristocratic society exists, the members of which

follow French fashions and customs and in considerable number have

visited Europe. A few persons have inherited or acquired by mining or

otherwise very large fortunes. Some persons of obviously mixed race or

mainly of Indian blood become educated, and acquiring wealth take part

in politics, hold office, and obtain social position; more such than in

Peru. There is a really cultured society in all towns of moderate size.

The plateau Indians are chiefly Aymarás or Quichuas, the former living

around Lake Titicaca and throughout the northern part of the plateau;

while the Quichuas, strange to say, are at the south, farther from

their kindred in Peru. The Aymarás are less prepossessing than the

Quichuas, more churlish, rather darker, similar in mode of life, though

a trifle more backward. They till the soil to some extent, act as

herdsmen, work in mines, and perform heavy labor of any kind, carrying

loads of 60-80 pounds, 20, 30, even 50 miles a day. The women are said

to be stronger than the men; both do spinning and weaving. The men

are inveterate chewers of coca, and men and women both are much given

to drunkenness. Of melancholy aspect, they seem devoid of ambition.

Generally submissive, if aroused they are revengeful and murderous.

Having received little attention from the Government they are probably

in poorer case than when ruled by the Incas; they are believed to be

diminishing in numbers. Plans have been formed for improving their

condition.

The mestizos, also called cholos, feminine cholas, are the industrial

class of the nation, artisans, shopkeepers to some extent, etc. The

men dress in second class European style; the cholas, one might say,

half and half. As a rule the cholos treat the Indians more harshly

than do the real whites, while to the latter they are rather servile.

Some cholos have distinguished themselves as writers and statesmen.

Two thirds of the population are said to live at or above 12,000 feet.

Several mining camps are at 15,000 to 16,000 feet.

EDUCATION

Education is public, official, free, or private. Primary education is

called free and compulsory. The provision, formerly inadequate, has

recently been improved in accordance with a well planned programme.

There are about 900 primary schools with 53,000 pupils, including

private and kindergarten. Fourteen _colegios nacionales_ provide

for secondary education besides private schools under government

supervision; in La Paz and Cochabamba, two under Methodist auspices

have accomplished excellent work. Teachers are trained in four normal

schools, while professional or higher education is afforded by

Universities in La Paz, Sucre, and Cochabamba, Law Schools at Oruro,

Potosí, Santa Cruz, and Tarija, a School of Theology at Santa Cruz.

There are further a Mining School, Institutes of Agronomy, Commerce,

Modern Languages, and Music; and four Schools of Arts and Trades, the

one at Cochabamba giving excellent results from instruction in weaving

wool, and in the use of native dyes. With a view to extending and

modernizing the education of women coeducation is practised in most

institutions and there are two _liceos_ for girls. Students of especial

ability are sometimes sent abroad for study, and foreign instructors

are engaged.

PRESS, RELIGION, ETC.

=Press.= The press, while important, is said to have less influence

than in the neighboring Republics, and it contains less news of the

world.

=Religion.= The religion of the State is Roman Catholic, but freedom is

now granted to other forms of worship. Civil marriage alone is legal,

but is frequently neglected by the Indians.

=Telegraphic Communication.= The Capital is in telegraphic

communication with the rest of the world and with the capitals of all

the Departments. The country has over 200 offices, and 4350 miles of

wire. A powerful wireless station at Viacha, on the plateau 15 miles

from La Paz, communicates with the Pacific Coast and with passing

ships. Other stations are at Villa Bella, Cobija, Trinidad, Santa Cruz,

Ballivián, D’Orbigny, Esteros, Riberalta, Puerto Suarez, and Yacuiba.

Telephone service exists in La Paz and Oruro.

=Money.= The unit of Bolivian money is the _boliviano_, equal to about

40 cents (.389) of our money. English and Peruvian gold pounds are

legal tender, equal to 12.50 _bolivianos_. The latter are divided into

100 centavos. Silver coins are of 20 and 50 centavos. Bank bills of one

and five _bolivianos_ and of higher denominations are in general use.

=Weights and Measures= are of the metric system, but in the interior

the old Castilian system is chiefly employed.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

The topography of Bolivia in general is similar to that of Peru save

for the absence of a coast section. The Sierra or plateau region and

the Trans-Andine continue those at the north, though the latter differs

from the Peruvian in that its rivers reach the Atlantic Ocean, some

by way of the Amazon, others by the Paraná and La Plata, while the

_montaña_ of Peru is wholly in the Amazon Basin.

The =Plateau Region= of Bolivia, 90 miles from the Pacific, extends

from northwest to southeast about 460 miles, with an average width of

100 miles and an altitude of 12,500 feet. It is bordered on the west

by the Cordillera Occidental, containing snowclad peaks, several of

which are volcanoes, many dormant or extinct, and on the east by the

Cordillera Oriental, the northern part of which is the Real or Royal,

a name eminently deserved. The two ranges come together at the Knot of

Cuzco or Vilcanota. Northeast of Lake Titicaca is another confused mass

or knot, the _Nudo_ of Apolobamba, where are said to be some of the

highest peaks of the Andes. The central plateau, once an inland sea,

and now including Lake Titicaca, slopes slightly from the north, where

it has a height above 13,000 feet. It is broken in places by ridges and

peaks, one over 17,000 feet high, and is cut by a few cañons. In the

West Cordillera a number of peaks reach an elevation of 19,000, 20,000,

or 21,000 feet; on the east the Cordillera Real contains several above

21,000. Farther south in the lower ranges are some peaks of volcanic

character. A transverse ridge, the Serranía de Lipez, terminates the

Bolivian Plateau.

East of the southern part of the Cordillera Oriental is a mountainous

section of which the Sierra de Cochabamba on the northeast and the

Sierra de Misiones on the east form the limit. Considerably farther

east in the region of the lowlands is the Sierra de Chiquitos between

the Mamoré and Guaporé Rivers, mere hills in comparison, with one

almost attaining 4000 feet. The highland or plateau section, the only

part visited by ordinary tourists or commercial men, occupies hardly

two fifths of the territory, the less known lowlands three fifths.

The =Lowlands=, extending farther north than the Bolivian plateau,

comprise low alluvial plains, swamps, and lands often flooded,

including great forests and llanos. The great forests are at the north

in the Amazon Basin, the open plains in that of the Plata.

=Rivers.= The only rivers of consequence are those which flow towards

the Atlantic, with the exception of the Desaguadero, about 200 miles

long, the outlet of Lake Titicaca. This river flows into Lake Pampa

Aullagas or Poopo, which has no outlet unless it be by an underground

stream to the Pacific, of which there are some indications. The

principal rivers of the Plata system, the Pilcomayo and the Bermejo,

flow southeast into the Paraguay River. More numerous and important are

the streams flowing northeast belonging to the Amazon Basin, the chief

of these, the Beni, and the Mamoré, which form the Madera River. They

have many tributaries, the Beni having the Madre de Dios, the Madidi,

the Cochabamba, and others; the Mamoré receiving the great boundary

river, the Guaporé or Itenez, and many more.

CLIMATE

Bolivia, still within the tropics, has the same variety of climate

as the countries previously described, the difference in altitude

causing the variation. The portion of the table-land where the altitude

is 12,000 to 13,000 feet, called the _puna_ by the natives, has two

seasons which resemble autumn and winter, the summer is so short and

cool. The summer, the season of snows, is from October or November to

May; the winter usually has slight precipitation. Little will grow here

except potatoes, barley, and _quinua_. The higher land up to the snow

line, perhaps 17,000 feet, called the _puna brava_, is still colder,

supporting grass only, where herders alone are found with native

flocks and rare mining settlements. Higher still is eternal snow with

almost Arctic temperature, -20° I found it at night on a glacier on

Mt. Sorata. A professor once told me that at 16,000 feet he was unable

to keep warm at night however much clothing and blankets he used, but

the Indians, moderately clad and with bare feet, endure the cold with

apparent indifference.

The valleys as high as 12,000 feet, as in the case of La Paz, are

comparatively comfortable, being shielded from the bleak winds of the

plateau. From 9500 feet to 11,000 the climate is sufficiently temperate

for the raising of vegetables and cereals. In what is called the

Valley Zone, 5,000 to 9,000 feet, there is slight variation throughout

the year, perpetual summer and subtropical vegetation. Below are the

_yungas_, deep valleys with semitropical climate, and further the

tropical lowlands. Except for the last section the country as a whole

may be called healthful, diseases arising from bad habits, poverty,

ignorance, and unsanitary conditions, rather than as a necessary result

of the climate. In the lowlands, however, tropical fevers and malaria

are likely to exist, while many persons are more or less affected by

_soroche_ on ascending to the plateau from the sea. In La Paz the

weather in winter is cool, with a temperature occasionally below

freezing and ranging from 40° to 50° in the house. Snow though not

uncommon soon vanishes in the sun, and flowers like geraniums blossom

all the year in the open. In summer, with much more precipitation, it

usually rains in the valley, with snow often on the _puna_ and always

on the mountains above.

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