ECUADOR: PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Ecuador, like Peru, has three longitudinal sections: the Coastal zone,
the Inter Andine region, including the mountain ranges with the plateau
or valleys between, and the Trans Andine, a part of the Amazon basin.
THE COASTAL ZONE
The coastal zone in Ecuador is much wider than at the north or south.
We have seen that in Colombia the mountain ranges are so close to the
shore as to leave little space for cities or agriculture, while in
Peru and Chile for the most part the mountains are visible from the
sea. Further, a good portion of Ecuador’s coastal zone resembles in
some respects the Amazon section, while in Peru the two are utterly
different. Ecuador is the only country favored on the Pacific side with
rivers navigable to any considerable extent, and the dense tropical
vegetation of much of the coast is in striking contrast to the Peruvian
deserts. Remembering that the equator crosses this country, it is easy
to understand that where there is much rain the lowlands have a humid
tropical climate. The coast curves slightly outward from the north to
Capes San Lorenzo and Santa Elena, the latter lacking but a few miles
of being the most western point of South America, which distinction
falls to Peru. Near these capes the waters of the cold Antarctic
current turn west towards the Galápagos Islands, the tropical waters
above and the colder current below affecting the climate of the two
sections. Just south of Cape Santa Elena begins the Gulf of Guayaquil,
the only considerable arm of the sea indenting the West Coast between
Panamá and the Island of Chiloé in Chile, a stretch of 3000 miles.
Considering the gulf as the broad triangle between Capes Santa Elena,
Ecuador, and Blanco in Peru, with the island, Puná, as inner limit, the
width is 140 miles. The boundary line of Ecuador, a little north of the
Tumbes River, leaves most of the Gulf line in that country. The Gulf
penetrates east and slightly north about 100 miles to the Guayas River
or estuary. Along the southern shore are occasional estuaries with
small river openings and mangrove swamps.
THE MOUNTAIN SECTION
The central mountainous region belongs of course to the great chain
of the Andes. As in the countries previously studied, this section
of Ecuador differs greatly from the lowlands. Happily the formation
is simpler than in Colombia. Extending from a rather confused mass
near the boundary of Peru to another jumble of peaks at the Colombian
border, a distance of 300 miles, are two parallel ranges, the East and
the West Cordillera, from 20 to 30 miles apart. The plateau region
between, which is higher at the north, is separated by two lower
transverse ridges called _páramos_ into three shallow basins or plains:
those of Quito, Ambato, and Cuenca; the first basin with an altitude
of 9500 feet, the second, 8500 feet, the third, 7800 feet. Some of the
water from these flows into the Pacific and some into the Atlantic.
East and west are the two rows of mountains in a remarkably symmetrical
arrangement, sometimes exactly opposite each other. Nowhere else in the
world are there two such rows of giants or such a collection of snow
crowned volcanoes. Of the 22 great peaks, several are active volcanoes
and more are extinct. The main range or Cordillera Real is the eastern,
with the larger number of lofty peaks; but the highest of all is in
the West Cordillera, Chimborazo, altitude 20,498 feet. This mountain,
first ascended by Edward Whymper, a celebrated English climber, in
1880, was formerly supposed by many to be the loftiest of the Andes;
but farther south at least a dozen peaks are higher, probably two or
three times as many.
The volcanic section, as we have seen, extends into Colombia; but not
into Peru. Especially noteworthy are Cotopaxi of the East Cordillera,
the highest active volcano in the world, 19,613 feet, and Pichincha,
the only one historically eruptive in the West Cordillera. The latter,
situated very near Quito, has been the source of highly destructive
eruptions. Sangay, east of the Ambato Basin, the most southern and
among the most active on the globe, does little harm as no settlements
are near. The Cuenca Basin, with no erupting volcanoes, contains
volcanic material. In the most southern province, Loja, no such signs
appear, nor in Peru for some degrees south.
ORIENTE
The country of the Oriente, with no llanos, is similar to forested
southeastern Colombia. The mountains slope down into the forests,
which cover their lower eastern declivities and the plain beyond. This
inclines toward the region of the Amazon, with slight undulations well
away from the mountains; but the nearer sections are broken by lateral
spurs from the main chain, or by low isolated ranges separating the
basins of the larger Amazon affluents.
RIVERS, AMAZON TRIBUTARIES
North of the _nudo_ or knot in the Loja province, spurs and ravines
lead off from the high mountain range. Here swift flowing streams
descend in a region called wild and savage. Those rising farthest
north reach the Amazon at a more eastern point than the streams rising
nearer, at the south; so the mention of the principal rivers of the
eastern slope will begin with the most southern and western tributary.
It may be remembered that the Amazon is formed by the union of the
Marañón and the Ucayali Rivers, both flowing northwest in Peru, the
former, the one nearer the Pacific coast. Above 6° S. Lat. the Marañón
turns sharply east, flowing with northerly and southerly deviations,
receiving in its course many tributaries before and after breaking
through the East Cordillera of Peru at the Pongo de Manseriche. Here
the waters of the previously broad river pass through an extraordinary
chasm 3 miles long and 100 feet wide. The walls are not 2000 feet
high as often stated; in one or two places they may rise 40 feet
perpendicularly, but usually they are wooded slopes, rising in a single
locality perhaps 2000 feet.[6] The principal rivers flowing from
Ecuador into the Marañón or Amazon are the Chinchipe, Santiago, Morona,
Pastaza, Tigre, Nanay, and Napo. These with the streams from Colombia
drain the northwest part of the Amazon Basin and are capable of adding
much to the economic value of the region. The few white settlements
existing are as nothing in this vast wilderness.
[6] See Geographical Journal, October, 1920
=The Chinchipe River= rises in southern Loja and after receiving many
tributaries flows into the Marañón a little below where that river runs
northeast. The lower part of the Chinchipe is navigable.
=The Santiago River= rises near the town of Loja between the two
Cordilleras. Several of its important tributaries rise in Loja, or in
the Cuenca basin farther north. One of these, the Pauta, has a branch
rising only 30 miles from the Gulf of Guayaquil, a source nearer the
Pacific than that of any other river flowing into the Atlantic unless
it be in the very south of Chile. The Santiago enters the Marañón a
little above the rapids of the Pongo Manseriche. At the mouth of the
stream was once a town, Santiago, which like Borja below the Pongo was
destroyed by savages.
=The Morona River.= Two of the many tributaries of the Morona rise in
the East Cordillera at heights above 13,000 and 14,000 feet north of
the Apuay knot. At high water the Morona is navigable for 300 miles,
at low water for 200, for steamers drawing from 2 to 4 feet, and also
two of its tributaries; but due to the tortuous course of the river the
300 miles equals but 120 in a straight line. Earlier many flourishing
missions existed in this section, but in the last century the Huambisa
Indians inhabiting the upper reaches of the Santiago and the Morona
almost exterminated the Indians who had been civilized. So recently as
February, 1913, members of the same tribe massacred the soldiers of a
Peruvian outpost. This, notwithstanding, was later re-established by
Peru.
=The Pastaza River=, rising in the basin of Riobamba at a height of
nearly 15,000 feet, flows through a little known district receiving
many tributaries. The lower part is navigable for steamers at high
water to the Huasaga branch, 120 miles, and 200 miles farther by
canoe. This fluvial system drains the basins of Latacunga, Ambato,
and Riobamba, the snows of Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, and other peaks
contributing to its waters. A spot where the unified river at an
altitude of about 6000 feet in one leap makes a splendid fall of 190
feet is said to be one of the most picturesque scenes in the Andes.
=The River Tigre= belongs to the region of the plains, though some of
its affluents rise in the East Cordillera. Although in volume not to
be compared to the Pastaza or the Napo it is quite as important, being
navigable for steamers of 4 to 8 feet draught at high water for over
400 miles, and in low water for steamers drawing 2 to 4 feet; 100 miles
more on the Corriente branch and 40 on the Pucasuro, with an additional
1260 miles by canoe on its various tributaries. The region traversed
is rich in natural products and with over 100 tributaries the river
deserves remembrance. It enters the Marañón 40 miles above the Ucayali.
=The Nanay=, a much smaller plains river with a slow current, yet with
a high bank and a healthful climate, may be ascended for 105 miles and
has some importance.
=The Napo River=, formerly part of the boundary line between Colombia
and Ecuador but now given over to Ecuador, has sources among the
Ecuadorian volcanoes, Cotopaxi, Antisana, and others. At first the
descent is rapid. At the foot of the Cordillera 100 miles from the
source, and but 1500 feet above the sea, canoe navigation begins at
the village of Napo. Sixty miles below, the Coca River comes in. This
section includes the Napo missions, a beautiful region long known and
visited by botanists and geologists. Here ends the influence of the
Roman Church and the land of the _salvajes_ or _infieles_ begins. It
was down the Coca valley that Gonzales Pizarro and Orellana came in
1540. From this point the Napo runs in forested plains, receiving
many more tributaries, the large Aguarico, and the Curaray. The Napo
is called navigable in high water for steamers from the Amazon about
200 miles up to the Curaray, some say to the Aguarico, 560 miles, and
little less at low water. At one point the Napo is but 50 or 60 miles
from the Putumayo, with which communication by canoe is possible, and
often made. The route from the Putumayo to Iquitos by way of the Napo
is much shorter for the rubber gatherers, as the Napo flows into the
Amazon not far below that city, while the Putumayo enters it several
hundred miles farther down.
RIVERS OF THE COAST
The Rivers of the Coast are with one exception of comparatively slight
importance.
=The Santiago River= (not to be confounded with the Amazon tributary
of that name), a short distance from the Colombian border, is formed
by several large streams, and has many tributaries, receiving its
waters from high in the West Cordillera. Some of the lower reaches are
navigable for canoes and steam launches.
=The Esmeraldas River=, second in importance to the Guayas, rises a few
miles north of Quito in the high plateau region, from which, breaking
through the West Cordillera, it descends to the coast. While not
navigable for steamers because of the swift current, it may be ascended
by canoes for more than 60 miles. With a great number of tributaries it
drains a very large mountain area as well as a slightly smaller region
of lowland.
The =Guayas= is undoubtedly the most important river system on the
entire west coast, and the only one admitting much navigation. It
drains and irrigates a large region, 14,000 square miles, between the
great Andes and the low coastal hills. This section has been called
the most fertile belt of tropical America. Below the Island of Puná,
the river is lost in the Gulf; above, it has much the character of an
estuary up to the city of Guayaquil, 33 miles, where it has a width of
more than a mile. Not far above the city, the river loses its name at
the confluence of the Daule and Bodegas. These two have other names, as
do their tributaries also. The principal branches of the Bodegas, which
is known also as the Babahoyo, are the Yaguachi or Chimbo, the Vinces
or Quevado, and the Calamara or Sapotal; the Daule farther west, also
called the Balzar, is about 130 miles long, not counting its windings.
In its upper part it receives the Grande and Peripe Rivers, and lower
down a number of streams and _esteros_ or canals.
CLIMATE
The climate of the several sections, as in Colombia and Venezuela,
varies chiefly on account of the altitude, though in places affected
also by other causes obvious or hidden. The coastal region is warm
with a mean temperature of 82.4°, but with variation in humidity and
rainfall. South of the equator the coast is arid with little rain,
except in the vicinity of the Gulf of Guayaquil; but farther north in
the Province of Esmeraldas there is rain and luxuriant vegetation, as
along the Colombian littoral. Towards the mountains, the climate though
warmer is agreeable in the dry season.
The mountains which approach the shore of the Gulf of Guayaquil
condense the moisture of the trade winds from the east, causing
plenty of rain, sometimes too much; the humidity is excessive.
Guayaquil, average temperature 80°, has been notoriously unhealthful.
The condition, however, was due more to lack of sanitation than to
the climate itself. We know of the wonderful change at Panamá; but
at Guayaquil, partly no doubt because of several revolutions and
financial difficulties, yellow fever and other diseases have long been
prevalent. Happily yellow fever was eradicated under the supervision of
General Gorgas, but bubonica and small pox may still exist. Recently
contracts have been placed for sanitation, sewers, paving, and other
improvements, and something is already accomplished.
In some sections there are two rainy and two dry seasons a year, in
others it is liable to rain at any time. At Guayaquil the rainy season
is from December to April inclusive, or longer, the remainder of the
year being dry. In Ecuador the dry season though the cooler is called
_verano_ or summer, while the warmer rainy months are called _invierno_
or winter.
The climate of the Ecuadorian Highlands may be called healthful, with
varying temperatures according to the altitude and exposure to the
wind. On the east side of the mountains the precipitation is greater
than on the west side, as along the entire Cordilleras, except in
southern Chile. The snow line varies from 14,000 feet to 15,650 and
more, the difference depending chiefly upon the amount of precipitation
in the various localities. As the dwellings in these regions have no
artificial heat they are uncomfortable much of the time for Americans,
accustomed to warm houses. A similar condition prevails in all the
cooler sections of South America, the natives being indifferent to a
temperature that would be discomfort to most of us. When it is really
too cold for them they put on overcoats, furs, ponchos, and even hats
in the house. In general in the Inter-Andine region between 6000 and
11,000 feet altitude the annual temperature is from 64° to 68° with
frequent variations. At any season rain in the afternoon is common,
and in the summer high winds make the _paramos_ often dangerous. The
high death rate among the working people and Indians is due more to bad
living conditions than to the climate. Leprosy is fairly common; there
is a good deal of malaria and typhoid fever. Tuberculosis is unknown
but catarrhal complaints are prevalent. Persons coming up from the
lowlands frequently suffer from mountain sickness, _soroche_, though
less than where the railroads reach a higher elevation.
In the Trans-Andine section the lower region has two wet and two dry
seasons, the most rain being from the end of February to the middle
of June, another period is from the middle of October to January; but
there is rain in every month. On the mountain slopes the dry season is
from November to April.