GUIANA AS A WHOLE: BRITISH GUIANA
The name Guiana has been applied to the entire country between the
Orinoco and the Amazon. We have observed that in Venezuela the region
south of the Orinoco is called the Guiana Highlands. We shall notice
later that the section south of the dividing mountain range and north
of the Amazon as far west as the Rio Negro is called Brazilian Guiana;
but the country which is more strictly Guiana is east and north of
these, though here, too, adjectives are applied as there are three
divisions: British, Dutch, and French Guiana, the British on the west,
the French farthest east.
AREA
The area of them all is about 170,000 square miles, of which British
Guiana has 90,000, Dutch 46,000, and French 33,000 square miles.
As these countries are colonies instead of republics their governments
are naturally different.
Although sighted by Columbus in 1498 and visited not long afterward
by traders, as there was a large Indian population, the country was
settled later than Venezuela and Colombia. After various vicissitudes
the earliest colonies were abandoned. The difficulties of the later
settlements, the changes, insurrections, massacres, wars, and troubles
of various kinds following are too numerous to recount, and we come
immediately to conditions of the present time.
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
The three divisions of Guiana are similar, having first a low marshy
coast land, rising at the back very slightly for a distance of 10 to 40
miles. A broader, more elevated tract of sandy or clayey soil follows
with a still higher region in the rear. Of the southern section the
eastern part is almost all forest, the central and southwest portions
have more grass clad savannas, which might support thousands of cattle
if there were any way to get them out. There is a vast network of
water ways, many rivers in their lower sections near the coast being
connected by _caños_. The forest varies, being dense in river bottoms
and thin on sandy soils. The longest river, the Essequibo, is about 600
miles, others a little less. At from 50 to 100 miles inland, all the
rivers are blocked by rapids, but some are accessible to large vessels
as far as these. There are various hills and mountains, the highest,
the Pacaraima Range, marking in part the boundary with Venezuela, the
Acarai Mountains with Brazil; the two form the water shed between the
Amazon, the Orinoco, and the Essequibo rivers. Mt. Roraima, altitude
8635 feet, rising as a red rock 1500 feet above the forest, is said to
have as its top a tableland of 12 square miles. Several other mountains
are from 7000 to 8000 feet high. Ranges of hills and mountains from
2000 to 3000 feet traverse the country elsewhere. In Dutch and French
Guiana are almost impenetrable forests, less explored than those of
British Guiana, especially towards the south. A splendid waterfall is
the Kaieteur, nearly five times as high as Niagara, 741 feet, with
81 feet of cataracts just below, in the midst of lovely tropical
vegetation. Many other beautiful falls of less height, and cascades
provide an immense amount of water power.
The climate is considered good in most places though there is large
rain-fall, at Georgetown averaging 93 inches a year, in some places
100; but there is no yellow fever, and other diseases except in
certain localities may be guarded against.
BRITISH GUIANA
=Area.= This colony has an area of 90,000 square miles, exceeding that
of Great Britain, a sea coast of 270 miles, and a depth varying from
300 to 535 miles.
The =Population= according to the official report of 1919 is 310,000.
=Boundary.= British Guiana has the Atlantic Ocean on the northeast,
Dutch Guiana east, the Corentyn River serving most of the way as the
boundary line; Brazil is on the south, and Brazil and Venezuela are
west.
=The Government= is practically that of a Crown Colony with a Governor
who has almost absolute power. He is assisted by a legislative council
which has no great influence.
=The Population= is mixed, East Indians and negroes forming by far the
greater proportion of the total, some mestizos, Chinese, Indians, and
10,000 whites. The large majority of the people live in the coastal
belt. Many negroes were brought from Africa as slaves, who, after their
emancipation, in large numbers refused to work on the plantations as
before. East Indians were then brought in, who though not so strong are
more industrious and have better health than those of other races; for
one reason because they dress to suit the climate, draping themselves
with a few yards of cotton cloth in a really artistic manner. The
native Indian is useful to the traveler as boatman, wood-cutter, or
huntsman, also to gold diggers, and seekers of balatá. Some of the half
civilized are fairly reliable. If they become friends they are of great
value. The wild Indians are disappearing, perhaps going farther back.
=Education= is mainly carried on by religious denominations, with
missions in outlying districts; 224 schools receive government
assistance; there is one government free school in Georgetown where
students may be prepared for English universities or for ordinary
fields of labor. Of course there is full religious liberty, but the
government subsidizes the principal churches, especially the English
and Scotch, in the country the parishes alternating. The Roman
Catholic and the Methodist churches also receive annual grants. Other
denominations are represented, but receive no assistance except in some
cases for schools.
The =Post Office= is up to date with telephone (1800 miles of wire),
telegraph (575 miles), and savings bank attachments, the last having
over a million dollars on deposit. There is cable communication with
the West Indies and wireless. British money is not in general use;
dollars and cents according to the decimal system of America are the
common currency. The weights and measures are naturally British like
our own.
=The Capital= of British Guiana, Georgetown, population 54,000, located
at the mouth of the Demerara River, is a tropical garden city with
broad streets, interesting stores, a club, a museum, a curious market.
On account of dampness the houses are all built on pillars. The city
has 50 miles of paved streets with good tramways, etc.
PORTS AND TRANSPORTATION
The chief ports of the Guianas are the three capitals, which are
connected with the outside world by the West Indies Mail Services of
the three mother countries, while other steamship lines run regularly
to London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. There is mail service with Canada
and regular steamers from New York. Coast and river steamers ply
regularly along the coast of British Guiana from the northwest
extremity to the Berbice River, at the mouth of which is the city of
New Amsterdam, called a smaller Georgetown, not very far from the
boundary of Dutch Guiana. The country has 95 miles of railway, 450 of
navigable rivers, 39 miles of canals, and 322 of good roads.
A railway 60 miles long connects Georgetown with New Amsterdam, _i.e._,
it reaches a point on the Berbice River opposite the latter city. Five
miles of this road from Georgetown to Plaisance, completed and opened
for traffic in 1848, is actually the oldest railway in South America.
Another 19 mile line goes from Vreeden Hook opposite Georgetown on the
Demerara River to Greenwich Park on the Atlantic at the mouth of the
Essequibo. Another short line running through primeval forest has been
laid from Wismar on the Demerara, 65 miles from its mouth, to Rockstone
on the Essequibo to give access to the upper part of the latter river
above extensive and dangerous rapids, and further to the Potaro and
other gold fields. The Road, besides passenger and tourist traffic
handles a variety of timber. Its owners, (Sprostons Ltd.), who employ
over 1000 men, maintain a coast and river service, and own a foundry,
lumber yard, etc. A railway to the Brazil boundary, long planned,
would open up the interior and its valuable resources. From Rockstone,
launches run 90 miles up the river to Potaro Landing. A service was to
be organized to the Kaieteur Falls on the Potaro River.
Ferries cross the mouths of the three principal rivers, the Essequibo,
the Demerara, and the Berbice. The estuary of the Essequibo River is
15 miles wide. It contains several large islands, on some of which are
plantations. Vessels drawing less than 20 feet can enter the river and
go up 50 miles. The mouth of the Demerara River, two miles wide, has a
sand bar prohibiting the entrance of vessels drawing more than 19 feet.
To such as enter, the river is navigable for 70 miles. The Berbice
River, two miles wide at its mouth, is navigable 105 miles for vessels
drawing 12 feet and 175 miles for boats drawing 7 feet. The Corentyn
River with an estuary 14 miles wide is navigable for 150 miles; this
river is the boundary between British and Dutch Guiana. Roads good
enough for automobiles and carriages, which use them, extend from the
Corentyn River along the coast some miles beyond the mouth of the
Essequibo and a few miles up the rivers.
RESOURCES
At present agriculture and mining are the leading industries.
AGRICULTURE
=Sugar=, the chief source of revenue for the colony, in slavery days
brought great wealth to the planters; but after the emancipation
some estates were divided, the negroes refused to work steadily if
at all, and production greatly declined. At length East Indians who
were imported helped to revive the industry. Of 105,000 agricultural
laborers 73,000 are East Indians. The plantations are mostly in the
coastal lowlands where 77,000 acres are cultivated. Attention to the
dams needed to keep out the sea in front and water from the morass at
the side, also to the drainage ditches, necessary on account of the
sudden rains, occasionally ten inches a day, adds much to the labor, as
they demand incessant care. The value of the product in 1916 including
sugar and rum was estimated at $15,000,000 or more. Demerara sugar has
long been famous; the soil is extremely fertile.
=Rice=, to which 60,000 acres are devoted, and which the East Indians
especially consume, is next to sugar in importance. Formerly 39,000,000
pounds were imported annually, while in 1916, about 70,000,000 pounds
were produced and 30,000,000 exported. The largest producer is an
American company. The value of the rice exported in 1916 was over
$1,000,000. The quality is superior to the East Indian.
=Coconuts.= Increasing attention is paid to raising coconuts. Thirty
thousand acres of the trees, which seem to enjoy the sea breeze, have
been planted. In one year 2,000,000 nuts and 180,000 pounds of copra,
dried coconut, were exported, also coconut oil, the value of all the
products shipped being $45,000. This will be greatly increased when all
the trees come into bearing.
=Cacao.= The culture of cacao, as yet unimportant, is increasing. It
grows well in the river bottoms of the forest region, but does not like
the sea breezes. It may, however, be protected from these on the coast
lands by a wind break of tall trees.
=Coffee= also has been neglected though about 240,000 pounds were
exported in 1914. Its quality is said to be equal to that of Trinidad
or Caracas.
=Pará rubber= is cultivated in plantations on river lands and
immediately back of the coast, more than 6000 acres being planted; but
as yet little has been exported.
The =plantain=, beloved by the negro, and praised for its food value,
is grown in enormous quantities. The unripe fruit is usually eaten
boiled, but is better fried, or roasted and buttered. Sliced, dried,
and ground, it is thought by some to be superior to arrowroot or sago.
Other tropical fruits might be grown for export, oranges, limes,
mangoes, pineapples, _sapodilla_ called luscious, guava, _cassava_
biscuit, etc. The _saouri_ nut which grows in the forest one writer
calls the most delicious nut in the world.
FORESTS
About five-sixths of the country is forest land, nearly all the
property of the government. These 78,000 square miles of timber
are largely inaccessible on account of the numerous waterfalls and
rapids of the rivers; a railway line to the remote interior is of
the utmost importance. The timber and lumber trade is slight, though
the _greenheart_, a wood of great strength, weighing 75 pounds the
cubic foot, is sought for its use in the construction of docks, heavy
flooring, etc. The trees which grow in clay soil near rivers and
creeks supply logs 18 by 24 inches, 70 feet long. Most of it is shipped
to Panamá where it was used in the locks; 40 to 60 varieties of trees
are found on an acre. The export of _balatá_ is important, only sugar,
rum, and gold preceding it in value, nearly $1,000,000 worth in a year.
It is a kind of gutta percha much used for belting. The tree is tapped
the same way as a rubber tree. Licenses are granted for certain forest
areas and the country is ranged over by prospectors and tappers. Over
1,000,000 pounds are produced. The milk resembles that of the cow, and
is sometimes used for coffee, but it is believed to be unwholesome. A
tree usually yields one gallon, which produces five pounds of balatá,
but some trees five gallons. The trees must not be tapped oftener than
once in four years.
In the forest are found various gums and balsams, the _copaiba_, the
tonka bean, the basis of many perfumes, vanilla, nutmeg, oils from
palm nuts, and most important, the _caraba_ oil which is used by
the Indians to lubricate their bodies and to dress the hair for the
purpose of warding off noxious insects and vermin. It has a strong
unpleasant odor, doubtless arising from its valuable properties. Light
woods suitable for paper are found and many others of value. There is
a variety of fibre plants, agave, pineapple, _pita_ hemp, and others,
some of which might be utilized to save the great importation of rice
and sugar bags. There is an inexhaustible supply of pulp material for
the manufacture of paper.
MINING
=Mining= is an important industry in Guiana, the mineral wealth being
chiefly in gold and diamonds, though recently _bauxite_, valuable as
a source of aluminum and for other purposes, has been found in what
promises to be paying quantities.
Gold mining was prosecuted in the 17th and 18th centuries, but not much
in the 19th till 1857 when some activity began in the Yuruán district
and later along the Cuyuni River. In the former a nugget of 180 ounces
was obtained. By 1885 the industry had become important and an American
prospector finding 275 pounds of gold created much excitement. Later a
nugget of 333 ounces, worth over $6500, was discovered at Barima. Most
of the gold has been taken, largely by Indians, from alluvial diggings;
some dredging has been successful. In 25 years nearly 3,000,000 ounces
were mined. In 1913 the output was from ten different river districts.
A good recent find was near Pigeon Island on the Cuyuni. Most of the
districts are so difficult of access that scientific mining with modern
machinery is almost impossible. In 1915 about 54,000 ounces were
produced and since 1890 over $40,000,000.
A new gold field discovered by American prospectors is between the head
of the Takutu River and the Tucurutu Mountains.
Many diamonds are found but mostly small. In 13 years from 1900 over
1,000,000 stones weighing 85,800 carats were produced; in 1915 6200
carats valued at $51,000.
The discovery of oil in several places has been rumored, the most
favorable indications being in the Waini River district. Blocks of
bitumen found off the coast seem to indicate another pitch lake, and
asphalt is said to have been located near the coast, though not yet
worked. White quartz sand suitable for glass making and _kaolin_ for
pottery exist in quantity, forming reefs and sand hills.
OTHER INDUSTRIES
Cattle raising has great possibilities but slight development. There
are 112,000 head of cattle.
The waters have several hundred species of fish, many well flavored and
worth salting. Isinglass or fish glue is exported.