CHAPTER IV

COLOMBIA: THE CAPITAL, THE STATES AND TERRITORIES, CHIEF CITIES

THE CAPITAL

=Bogotá=, the Capital of Colombia, is situated on a plateau or savanna,

a sort of shelf over 8000 feet above the sea, on the west side of the

East Cordillera. The shelf, overlooked by fine snowclad volcanoes, has

a low rim on the west and a high ridge on the east. About 70 miles long

and 30 wide, it is entirely covered with towns and farms. The city is

the largest in Colombia (population probably 150,000), on account of

its being the capital and having a good climate; the mean temperature

ranges from 54° to 64°. 600 miles from the north coast and 210 from the

Pacific, Bogotá is the most difficult of access of any of the South

American capitals. Nevertheless, the city has always been noted as

the home of culture and of intellectual tastes. It is well laid out

and covers a large area, as the houses are of only one or two stories

with interior patios or courts, as in most South American cities.

Many streets have asphalt pavements; there are hundreds of carriages

and automobiles, also 23 miles of electric tramways. Like all South

American cities, it has large plazas, open squares usually with trees

and other green in the centre, and public gardens. The Capitol is an

imposing building covering two and a half acres. Other good public

buildings include the Presidential Palace, a public library, a museum,

etc. Of course there is a cathedral and many churches, two theatres of

the first rank, several fair hotels, a large bull ring, a hippodrome,

polo grounds, etc. Here are telephones and electric lights as in all

other considerable cities. The people are industrious, intelligent, and

fond of amusement.

A more precise idea of the geography of Colombia and of the commercial

possibilities of the different sections will be gained by reviewing

them in order, beginning with the north coast, going around the

outside, and concluding with the interior.

STATES AND TERRITORIES

=The Goajira Peninsula=, a Comisaría at the northeast, is inhabited

chiefly by Indians who are practically independent. They gather forest

products such as tagua nuts (vegetable ivory), breed useful horses,

and do some trading at the port of Riohacha in Magdalena. A few savage

tribes make travel in some sections dangerous. The peninsula contains

much wet lowlands, as well as mountains, extensive forests, and fine

fertile country, with considerable mineral wealth yet unexploited:

gold, and probably extensive veins of coal. Large sections covered with

guinea grass are capable of supporting great herds of cattle.

=Magdalena=, adjoining the Peninsula, is a Department a great part of

which is low and hot. The inhabitants include many Indians, a friendly

tribe on the Sierra Nevada. Back of these mountains are rich valleys,

where white settlers have been disturbed by savage Indians who live

on the lower slopes of the East Cordillera. Among the products of the

region are coffee, cocoa, sugar, and bananas. The upper valleys are the

better settled and cultivated; mineral wealth including petroleum is

evident.

Santa Marta, the capital, an ancient city and port, founded 1525,

has recently entered upon an era of prosperity, largely due to the

enterprise of the United Fruit Company. Finely located on a good harbor

west of the Nevada of Santa Marta, some distance east of the mouth of

the Magdalena, the city is an important centre of the banana industry,

to which it owes its present development; other agricultural products

are for local consumption. The climate is hot but healthful, though the

banana zone is malarial. An excellent hospital is maintained by the

United Fruit Company. Within a few miles are regions with a delightful

temperature. A Marconi wireless, one of the most powerful in South

America, is of general service, though the property of the Fruit

Company. Their enormous banana trade is served by a 100 mile network of

railways into sections favorable to this fruit.

=Atlántico= is a small Department occupying the flat hot delta of the

Magdalena River.

Barranquilla, the capital, is a busy place with many resident

foreigners. It has quays, a large new warehouse, hotels, one of which

is said to have all conveniences, theatres, two clubs, electric lights,

trams, and telephones. In spite of the heat, which averages 82° for the

year, the deaths are less than 25 per 1000, a percentage better than in

some other tropical cities.

=Bolívar= follows, a very large Department, with the Magdalena River

for its eastern boundary. Bolívar like Atlántico has vast plains suited

to tropical agriculture and to cattle raising, now a growing industry.

The great natural resources of forest, agriculture, and mineral

products are but moderately developed. The breeding of horses, donkeys,

and mules is a profitable business followed by many. Ten gold mines are

worked.

Cartagena, the capital, is considered the most interesting city on

the Caribbean coast and one of the most picturesque in South America.

Its massive walls and fortifications were erected at great expense

nearly four centuries ago--1535. It has fine buildings both ancient and

modern, and comfortable hotels. Montería and Lorica are busy commercial

cities on the Sinú River, each with a population of 20,000 or more.

=Antioquia=, the next and largest department, has a smaller coast line.

The coast section has Bolívar on the east and the Gulf of Urabá on the

west; but the larger part is south of Bolívar, bordering at the east

on the Magdalena River, with the Departments of Santander and Boyacá

opposite. At the west is the Atrato River and through the centre the

Cauca River. All these rivers are more or less navigable by steamboats

as are some of their affluents; others at least by rafts and canoes.

Traversed also by the West and Central Cordillera Antioquia has great

diversity of character. It is the leading Department in mining, in

education, and as centre of industries; it is among the foremost

in agriculture, has the largest, most enterprising, and prosperous

population. Nearly one-fourth of the coffee exported from Colombia

comes from Antioquia, that from Medellín bringing the highest price.

The forests contain hard wood and rubber. The Department has five

cities besides the capital with a population of 20,000 or above, and 30

more with a population over 10,000.

Medellín, the capital, the second largest city of the Republic, is said

to be the wealthiest for its size of any city in South America. It has

wide streets, well built houses, many factories, and many educational

institutions. The climate is excellent, the altitude being 4600 feet.

Here is the National Mint.

=Caldas=, south of Antioquia and formerly a part of it, is a small

Department, very mountainous, with Cundinamarca east and Chocó west.

The population, mostly white, possessing sturdy qualities, is devoted

to mining, stock raising, and to agriculture of various zones. The

rivers have rich alluvium inciting to 2600 mining claims. In the

valleys the mean temperature ranges from 77° to 86°. Palm straw and

fibres are employed in making hats, cordage, and sacking.

Manizales, the capital, is an important, comparatively new city,

founded in 1846. Although distant from any river or railway at an

altitude above 7000 feet, it is growing rapidly as a distributing

centre. Sulphur and salt mines are near and thermal and saline springs;

large herds of cattle graze on the plains.

=Chocó=, the next coast region to Antioquia, is in striking contrast

to Caldas. An Intendencia bordering on Panamá and the Pacific as well

as on the Caribbean, it is rich in possibilities for mining, and for

agricultural and forest products; but the excessive rainfall and great

heat, unpleasant throughout the district, make the lowlands swampy and

unhealthful, and the whole region unattractive to settlement. Less than

one-tenth of the population is white; negroes form the great majority

of the rest, and there are some Indians. Of the latter, there are

three principal tribes in the Atrato Basin and four near the rest of

the Caribbean Coast. The Atrato Basin with that of the San Juan forms

one of the richest mining sections in Colombia, important for the

rare platinum, most of the tributaries carrying this metal with gold.

The San Juan Basin is probably the richer in platinum. Rubber, cacao,

hides, and timber are other exports. The region will be developed some

time.

Quibdó, the capital, is a busy trading centre, which within the

last ten years has increased in population fourfold in spite of the

disagreeable climate.

=El Valle=, the Department on the south, again is a striking contrast.

Although including a strip of coast with the chief Pacific port,

Buenaventura, the name of the Department indicates the part deemed

of the greatest importance; and the one that is The Valley among so

many we must expect to have especial merits. With an altitude of 3000

feet and upwards, it is a beautiful garden spot between the West and

Central Cordilleras, where plantains grow two feet long, a bunch of

bananas weighs 200 pounds, the cacao without cultivation commands a

higher price than that of Ecuador, where its culture is a specialty;

and sugar plantations are said to yield for several generations without

replanting or fertilizing. At greater altitudes grow the products

of temperate climes. Such a region must some day receive intensive

culture, although now the leading industry is cattle raising; since

the upper classes are indolent, it is said, the negro laborers also.

Yet a brilliant future is sure to come. The mining outlook is good.

Many claims for gold mines have been filed, some for platinum and

for silver, one each for emery, talc, copper, iron. There is a large

deposit of coal and of rich crystal. The rivers possess auriferous

alluvium.

Cali, the capital, is an old, but progressive and important commercial

city, with a fine climate, altitude 4000 feet, mean temperature 77°. It

has fine old buildings and new ones, poor hotels, banks, automobiles,

etc. Other busy cities farther north, are Palmira, 27,000 population,

and Cartago, 21,000.

=Cauca= follows, five times the size of El Valle but with no larger

population, of which 25 per cent is white. It extends back from the

ocean south of El Valle and of the Department Huila as well. The region

has many undeveloped coal mines, and other minerals, with vegetation

tropical and temperate in abundance. In some parts there are dense

forests. Over 4000 mining claims have been filed, and gold and platinum

are exported, but agriculture is the chief industry.

Popayán, the capital, was founded in 1536 at an altitude of nearly

6000 feet. At the foot of an extinct volcano and 17 miles from an

active one, with a good climate it has violent electric storms and

earthquakes. It has some fine old buildings, a university, and some say

that here the best Spanish in the New World is spoken.

=Nariño=, the last Department at the south, has a large settled Indian

population, with some Indians uncivilized. It contains a number of

volcanoes a few of which are active; several rivers flow into the

Pacific, the Patía the most important. Gold mines have been worked

from colonial times and gold is one of the chief exports. Other mines

exist and 2500 claims have been denounced. Rich copper has been noted;

corundum and sapphires have been found. Besides gold the chief exports

are Panamá hats, hides, rubber, coffee, tobacco, and anise.

Pasto, the capital, at an elevation of 8650 feet, at the base of the

volcano Galera, has a beautiful location, a fine climate, and a hardy

industrious people. There are 21 Indian settlements near. Barbacoas,

100 miles from the coast, is a considerable city of over 12,000

population where the making of Panamá hats is a leading industry.

Tumaco, population 15,000, is a picturesque island port with a better

climate than Buenaventura.

=Putumayo=, a Comisaría east and extending far to the southeast of

Nariño, is on the northeast boundary of Ecuador, from which it is

separated by the watershed between the river Napo and the Putumayo,

which latter separates it from Caquetá, both rivers affluents of the

Amazon. The northern part with an elevation of 3000 feet or more has a

comfortable climate.

Mocoa, the capital, is in this section, and a few small towns, several

entirely Indian.

=Caquetá=, the adjoining Comisaría, is similar in character, the higher

portion a good cattle country. The animals with other products could

easily be shipped down stream to Manaos, where they would command high

prices. The lower section is a good rubber district; cinnamon, cacao,

tagua, hides, oils, balsams, sarsaparilla, varnishes, and feathers are

other products of the region.

=Vaupés=, the next Comisaría shares the characteristics of the low,

untrodden, rainy, forest region and of the more open and agreeable

lands higher up, a promising territory for the rather distant future.

In the Vaupés section the rivers are of black water, near which are

no mosquitoes, therefore a more healthful region. Along the rivers of

white water, which are in the majority, mosquitoes are a terrible pest.

The distinction generally prevails in the countries of the north coast.

North of the Amazon region is that of the llanos belonging to the

Orinoco Basin. There is hardly a real watershed between the two; in

a number of places channels, especially in the rainy season, connect

different tributaries, besides the well known Casiquiare connection

between the Orinoco and, by way of the Rio Negro, the Amazon.

The =Meta= Intendencia, formerly separated from Vaupés by the

Guaviare, the most southern tributary of the Orinoco in Colombia,

extends to the Meta River on the north. This section with some country

farther north is similar to the llanos of Venezuela, chiefly grass

lands of inferior quality, with patches of forest. It supports some

cattle and might a great many more, although much of the pasture land

is very wet in the long rainy season, and so dry in the short dry

season that in many districts the grass practically disappears. The

Meta River in its lower part has Venezuela on the north; higher at the

northwest is the Casanare region (similar) of the Department of Boyacá.

Near the Meta River are more towns, a few cattle centres, richer soil,

with easier outlet to Venezuela, to which the few exports chiefly go.

The forests of the section teem with deer and other animals, the rivers

are full of alligators; the only entrance to Casanare safe from tribes

of wild Indians is the Cravo highway from Sogamoso, an ancient town in

Boyacá, where Chibcha priests once dwelt in palaces roofed with gold.

The =Vichada= Comisaría, so recently organized as not to appear on any

map (1921), is along the Vichada River between Vaupés and Meta.

=Arauca=, a small Comisaría, is a part of the region north of the Meta

River between Boyacá and Venezuela.

Arauca, the capital, on the river Arauca is called but three days

by water (generally seven) from Ciudad Bolívar, the eastern port of

Venezuela on the Orinoco.

=Boyacá=, west and north, except for the Casanare Province, is a

Department chiefly in the _tierra fria_ of the East Cordillera. The

population is mostly Indian and mestizo, the agriculture is mainly of

temperate character: wheat, barley, maize, alfalfa, potatoes. Mining is

actively carried on: gold, silver, copper, iron, quicksilver, marble,

have been denounced, and 157 emerald claims. Asphalt is worked; there

are salt works at Chita, an old Indian town, population 11,000.

Tunja, the capital, is called a fine old city with three public

libraries.

=Santander del Norte=, north of Santander, is also traversed by the

East Cordillera. The mean temperatures vary greatly: 46° on several

_paramos_, and 81° in the valleys of the Catatumbo and Zulia. Gold,

silver, copper, lead, coal are mined. Rio de Oro, tributary to the

Catatumbo, has rich auriferous deposits, and what is now of greater

importance, it passes through a district rich in petroleum. The varied

crops are the chief source of wealth: wheat and potatoes, coffee and

cacao.

Cúcuta, the capital, altitude 1000 feet, with a temperature of 84°, is

an important commercial city.

=Santander=, written also with Sur, south of Santander del Norte and of

Magdalena, has Boyacá on the east and south; Antioquia and Bolívar are

across the Magdalena River on the west. Similar to Santander del Norte,

it has more low plains. Gold, silver, copper, talc, asphalt are found.

Bucaramanga, the capital, has a mean temperature ranging from 64° to

84°.

=Cundinamarca=, south of Boyacá, has Meta on the east, Tolima and

Huila south, and Tolima west. Less than one-half of the population is

white; about one-third is on the high plateau, the rest on the slopes

or in the Magdalena Valley, or on the Orinoco watershed. The scattered

population is in 110 municipalities. Agriculture is most important, the

land near Bogotá being especially well cultivated. In the city many

factories are operated and a variety of trades followed. Mines are

widely distributed: iron, gold, silver, copper, lead, coal, jasper, etc.

Bogotá is the capital of the Department as well as of the country.

=Huila=, south of Cundinamarca and Tolima, has Meta and Caquetá east,

Cauca south, and Cauca and Tolima west. Half of Huila is Government

land, forest and mountain. Cattle raising is well developed. Wheat,

maize, rice, coffee, sugar, tobacco, are cultivated on a large scale.

There are four quartz mines, and gold placers receive attention.

Neiva, the capital, is practically at the head of steam navigation on

the Magdalena River. With an altitude of about 1500 feet it has an even

temperature approximating 80°.

=Tolima=, west of Huila and Cundinamarca, is a long Department with the

Magdalena River on the east and the Central Cordillera west. Cacao and

coffee are raised on the warm lowlands. Twenty-six million coffee trees

have been producing; perhaps 4,000,000 more are now in bearing. Over

2,000,000 tobacco plants grow on the foothills, other crops higher,

also cattle. Of the last there are 580,000, also 140,000 horses,

100,000 hogs, with fewer sheep and goats. The rivers are auriferous and

60 properties are worked for gold and silver.

Ibagué, the capital, is a pleasant and important city, an active

commercial town with mines and thermal springs in the neighborhood,

exporting a variety of articles, and with a considerable cattle trade.

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