CHAPTER I.

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Dinners

and

Luncheons

Dinners

and Luncheons

NOVEL SUGGESTIONS FOR SOCIAL

OCCASIONS.

Compiled by

PAUL PIERCE

Editor and Publisher of _What To Eat_, the National Food Magazine.

Superintendent of Food Exhibits at the St. Louis World's Fair.

Honorary Commissioner of Foods at the Jamestown Exposition.

* * * * *

BREWER, BARSE & COMPANY

CHICAGO

Copyrighted 1907

by

PAUL PIERCE.

_Respectfully dedicated to the overworked, perturbed

American hostess in the sincere hope that the suggestions

herein may lighten her perplexities and transform her work

of entertaining from a task of dread to one of delight._

This little book is the first of a series containing suggestions for

entertaining, which will give the hostess novel and practical ideas on

the manner of preparing and conducting various social affairs. There is

also another volume on Parties and Entertainments, one on Suppers, and

another on Breakfasts and Teas and a fifth on Weddings and Wedding

Celebrations. These volumes, it should be remembered, have been compiled

by the publisher of What To Eat, The National Food Magazine, America's

leading publication upon entertainments, dinners, menus, recipes and the

other subjects of importance to the hostess.

With the exercise of a little ingenuity and originality, the directions

may be varied--added to or altered--to suit all needs. This first book

is designed especially to describe those dinners and luncheons which,

while complete in themselves, also afford the best suggestions for

others.

THE PUBLISHERS.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. Dinner Giving for the Convenience of Busy Housewives--Upon

the Serving of Wines.

CHAPTER II. How to Send the Invitation--How to Serve in Proper Form

Dinners and Luncheons With Menus and Recipes--The Invitation--Dinner

Menus--Simple Menu--More Elaborate Menu--A Full Course Dinner--The Ease

of a Course Dinner--A Fine Menu--A Mid-Summer Dinner--Luncheon

Menus--Simple Luncheon--More Elaborate Luncheon--A Berry

Luncheon--Mid-Summer Luncheon--A Rural Luncheon--Buffet Luncheon for

Sixty.

CHAPTER III. Dinners and Entertainments for Patriotic, Holiday and

Special Occasions--Valentine Luncheon--A Lincoln Dinner--For St.

Patrick's Day--Attractive Easter Luncheon--Cap and Bells Luncheon for

April First--Decoration Day Luncheon--For a Hallowe'en Dinner--A Fourth

of July Dinner--A Luncheon for Thanksgiving--Thanksgiving Dinner--A

Christmas Dinner--An unusually Original Dinner--A Spring Dinner--College

Dinners.

CHAPTER IV. "Ice Breakers," Suggestions for Dinner, Menu and Place

Cards, Table Stories, Toasts, Table Decorations.

CHAPTER V. Helps Over Hard Places--Hints to the Hostess--Don'ts for the

Table--The Emergency Mistress--Passing the Loving Cup.

CHAPTER I.

DINNER-GIVING FOR THE CONVENIENCE OF BUSY HOUSEWIVES.

Three things are required to give an enjoyable dinner party; good taste,

good judgment and an intuitive sense of harmony. Good taste suggests the

proper thing in table dressing, in menu cards, in viands and beverages.

Good judgment dictates the fortunate time, the appropriate guests, the

seasonable dishes and topics; and last, a sense of harmony is the

quality that throws a glamour over all, combining pleasant parts in one

symmetrical whole, making a picture "distinct like the billows, but one

like the sea." This sense of harmony never yokes uncongenial persons at

table, except through unavoidable necessity. It is on the alert to

suggest congenial topics and deftly turn the conversation away from

disputed or disagreeable ones. It will often succeed in putting a

garrulous and self-assertive man who likes to talk all the time, beside

a mild and inoffensive woman who is content if she has naught to do but

listen and--eat. It will swell the heart of a silent man with gratitude

by reversing this action and placing beside him a woman who chatters

like a magpie. It will often turn the stupid guest, who for various

reasons will, in spite of all, occasionally appear at the best of

tables, over to an intimate friend to whom a sacrifice for the sake of

the host or hostess is a pleasure thus saving the formal guest and

maintaining the reputation of the household for excellent management.

In fact this sense of harmony is the essence that permeates and

vitalizes the entire proceedings and assures success to the hostess,

because it guarantees pleasure to the guests.

Nervousness, annoyance, anxiety on the part of the host or hostess

during the serving of dinner are the deadly foes of enjoyment. If you

feel these, therefore avoid showing them as you would avoid doing any

other act sure to bring discomfort to those you are entertaining.

Nothing conduces more to the enjoyment of guests than the fact that the

host is sharing the enjoyment. What if some servant blunders or some

dish is spoiled! It is aggravating, of course, but in most cases it will

afford amusement if the host regards the blunder good naturedly. Of

course no lady or gentleman will lose temper under such circumstances.

Such an exhibition would be unspeakably vulgar; but there ought not to

be even a display of irritation or a pursuing of the subject beyond a

passing and good natured remark.

There is, however, a tendency on the part of too many hosts to fix their

thoughts intently on the dinner and the way it is served. They try to

show an interest in the conversation, while throwing furtive glances at

the servants and taking occasion to communicate orders or complaints in

asides. It is far better to say, "John, give Mr. Black some wine," than

to communicate the order by nods and winks as if you were secretly

ashamed to have Black know that you were observing his consumption of

fluids, or were trying to get him intoxicated surreptitiously. Really,

of the two evils, it is better to be too inattentive--to let a course

wait even--than to be on the alert, watching the dilatory eater and

summoning the servant the moment he lays down his knife.

A young housekeeper in medium circumstances should never attempt too

much, too large a number of guests or too many courses. It is always

best to practice the dishes before, in fact, if exquisite cooking and

cooking even on the smallest scale, is the daily habit, no company,

however large, can upset the hostess or her domestics.

And a woman who cultivates the art of little dinners soon becomes

famous; men admire her and envy her husband, women dote on her, for an

invitation means brightness and merriment as well as a congenial

companion. The young married woman who is expert in blending sauces, is

just as clever in mixing the human elements of attraction and

amalgamation.

Refreshments, daintily served, stimulate conversation; ice cream breaks

the ice, so to speak, and warms the company. Serving food is a visible

demonstration of hospitality which all the philosophy in the world

cannot cover.

Gorgeous ornamentation of dinner table is conceded to be bad form. The

embellishment--the ornate, if you will--has been overdone, and now there

is a reaction which tends to simplicity extreme expressed by a handsome

centerpiece and a moderate exposition of not common flowers.

A different kind and color of china with every course is affected by

those whose cabinet is crowded and who are proud of it, but this pride

has its limitations among people of refinement and culture. This class

does not give dinners simply to exhibit earthly treasure and create

envy, and, perhaps, covetousness, too.

The larger the table napkin the better. A yard square is none too big,

and pleasantly recalls the Parisians, whose liberality in damask is

proverbial but not a characteristic in anything else. The material

should be the best obtainable, and the design the most beautiful. Any

lace edging or embroidery, plain or colored, is just as bad taste as

quinine.

Knives, forks and spoons now-a-days, for almost everything, are somewhat

confusing to those who do not dine out with sufficient frequency to keep

up with the continually advancing procession. Some of these knives,

forks and spoons are quite unnecessary, not to say silly, but the

business of the silversmith must be considered.

Place cards at dinners should be retained because the host or hostess

has had them prepared in expectation of their being retained and

preserved as _souvenirs_. Ignoring them would be disrespect, and such

disrespect, under the social circumstances, would be unpardonable.

In planning a regular dinner the fact should always be remembered, that

a heavy soup will so far cloy the appetite as to render one indifferent

to the rest of the dinner, while a clear soup refreshes, and prepares

one for the enjoyment of the succeeding solids. The fish and entrees

should not be substantial enough to satisfy hunger entirely; the

relishes will then stimulate the appetite for the heavier dishes. The

service of Roman Punch before the roast refreshes the palate, and

prepares it for the more perfect enjoyment of the succeeding dishes; it

is as necessary to the service of a good dinner as cheese is with plain

salad. When olives are on the table, they go well with _entrees_ of

game; French chestnuts boiled, are excellent with poultry; and almonds,

blanched and roasted with salt, are enjoyable with Madeira or Sherry

before the sweet _entrements_. Only a plain vegetable salad should

accompany the roast or game; and a bit of any old cheese may be passed

with the salad. Cheese straws or cheese crusts may be served with the

salad. Although the cheese belongs with the salad, it enters into some

delicate dishes, such as _fondus and souffles_, which may come to the

table either after the oysters or soup, as relishes, or before the large

sweets at dessert, previous to the service of the nuts and fruit. Then

comes the dessert. If the dinner is a small one it is perfectly

permissible for the hostess to make the coffee at the table, or it may

be served in the drawing-room later. Even with the best chosen _menu_,

the success of a dinner depends on the skill of the cook. A good cook

appreciates the value of sauces, and will give much care to their

preparation, and, above all, will endeavor to preserve the natural

flavors of the different dishes. All mingling of flavors is

objectionable, except in sauces and salads.

First Course Dishes.--Following are the names of the different courses

which make up the detail of the regular dinner, both the English and

French names being given. The complete detail of service is indicated,

so that the most inexperienced can succeed. THE SHELLFISH (_Huitres_),

includes small raw oysters, and little neck or hard-shell clams on the

half-shell at the same time, brown bread, cut very thin and buttered,

and cut lemons, salt, cayenne, and some sharp table-sauces are placed

upon the table in the original bottles. THE SOUP (_Potage_) is varied

according to the character of the dinner, either a perfectly clear soup,

or _consomme_, and the other a rich thick one, such as a _bisque_ or

cream. A thick cut of bread, or a roll with crisp crust, is placed upon

the napkin when the cover, or place, is laid; this is not eaten with the

soup usually, but is generally used after it with the shell-fish, hot

_entree_, or at any time during dinner. THE FISH (_Poisson_) may be of

any large kind, boiled or baked, and served with a good sauce and plain

boiled potatoes. If shell-fish is used at this point of the dinner, this

dish should be large and hot, like broiled lobster. THE RELISHES (_Hors

d'oeuvre_), which are placed upon the table as part of the decoration in

the American dinner and the service _a la Russe_, include all kinds of

table-sauces and catsups, salted almonds, pickles, olives, caviare,

_vinaigrettes_, small cold _entrees_, such as _bouchees_ and

_pate-de-foie-gras_, pickled fish and small tongues, and individual

escalops; all these are arranged on the table in little dishes. THE

REMOVES (_Releves_) consist of boiled, baked and braised meats, poultry

and large game, large veal, ham, game and cold ornamental fish pies and

large cold joints, such as boiled tongue and ham, generally served with

a garnish of vegetables; the remove at a small dinner may consist of an

elaborately dressed cold fish, if the regular fish service has been

omitted. THE SIDE-DISHES (_Entrees_) are the small hot meats garnished,

such as cutlets, chops breaded or larded, sweetbreads garnished,

_fricandeaux_, _fricassees_, _ragouts_ and _escalopes_, all hot; hot

raised pies, _pates_, and _rissoles_, combination salads of vegetables,

salads with _mayonnaise_, such as chicken and lobster; in brief, any

dish in size less than a joint or a roast. ROMAN PUNCH (_Sorbet_). There

are many delicious ices served under the general name of Roman Punch,

all having a combination of frozen fruit-sherbet and some fine

_liqueur_, cordial, wine or spirit; served in the midst of the dinner,

when the palate needs the sense of refreshment they impart to it; they

prepare it for renewed enjoyment, and render it capable of appreciating

the intense flavor of the roast and the _bouquet_ of the Burgundy or

Champagne that follow these. THE ROAST (_Roti_). For family dinners the

roast may be a joint of any meat preferred; but for special occasions it

should be of venison, larded hare, or some large game bird. If wild duck

is served, there should be more than one, because only the breast is

carved; when canvas-backs are used, half a breast cut in one piece is

helped to each guest. Smaller birds, either roasted or broiled, may be

served in this course. All game should be underdone. A garnish of

watercress or celery is used with birds, and always currant-jelly and

special sauces should come to the table with venison and hare. SALAD

(_Salade_). A green salad is the proper accompaniment of the roast; it

may be watercress, lettuce, celery, chiccory, _escarole_, burnet,

nasturtium (leaves, fruit and flowers), corn-salad, dandelion, tarragon,

fennel, mint, young onions and any of the green sweet herbs; the five

first named varieties are the most generally used. Sometimes tomatoes

and cucumbers are served here in this, although they more properly

belong, the cucumbers with the fish; and the tomatoes with a

_mayonnaise_ among the cold _entrees_. The best dressing for a green

salad is of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper; a salad with _mayonnaise_

belongs among the cold _entrees_, as do the salads of cold cooked

vegetables. A little old, rich cheese may be served with the green salad

if desired.

DESSERT (_Dessert_). The dessert consists of the small cold sweets, such

as _eclairs_, fancy cakes called _petits-fours_, confectionery, candied

fruits, nuts, individual moulded jellies, ices and creams, _glaces_ and

_cafe noir_. When the dessert is divided in two parts, the dishes called

_glaces_ or ices are served first; these include every sweet which can

be crystalized, frozen or iced; after them comes the dessert proper,

composed of candied and dry fruits, nuts, bonbons and little fancy

cakes, or _petit-fours_, with the cheese and coffee at the last.

In preparing the various dishes for the dinner which can be made ready

in advance, either uncooked or for cold service, the oysters or clams on

the half-shell are to be kept on the ice until just before the dinner is

announced; they are then to be arranged on appropriate plates and set

at each cover, the oyster-plate being placed on a large dinner plate,

which is to be removed with it when the hot plate is placed for the soup

or fish. A bit of lemon is to be put in the center of the oyster plate,

six half-shells with oysters being served on each plate (except in

California, where one can consume at least a dozen of the small

delicious native bivalves). The small oyster-fork is laid either upon

the plate or beside it on the table. After the shell-fish are eaten, the

guest leaves the fork upon the plate so that it can be removed with it.

Plates of brown bread, cut very thin and buttered, are placed upon the

table with the shell-fish, and removed with them. If this bread is

intended for use with the salad, it should be served in one compartment

of a fancy basket or dish; the other divisions containing biscuit,

crackers, old cheese, olives and small relishes. The basket containing

the bread, etc., should be removed from the table with the salad. All

plates are removed from and the various dishes passed at the guest's

left hand; the wine is poured at the right. Hot plates are served with

all the dishes except _foie-gras_, caviare, salads, and the cold sweets.

Great care should be exercised in preparing the dishes in the kitchen,

and in bringing them to the table in a perfectly neat condition. The

soup should not fill the tureen so far as to endanger spilling. The

dishes for fish should be suited in size and shape to the contents. If

the fish is boiled, it should be served unbroken, on a napkin laid in

the appropriate platter, and garnished with a few sprigs of fresh

parsley or slices of lemon, the sauce being served in a sauce-boat; if

sauce is served on the dish with the fish, only enough to cover the

center of the dish should be used, and the fish laid on it; the rest is

served in a sauce-boat. _Entrees_ should be very neatly arranged with

the proper garnishes, with only sauce enough to surround them, but not

to reach the edge of the dish. Very little gravy, or none at all, should

be on the dish with joints, as it is likely to be spilled in carrying;

and the dish should be deep enough to contain all that may flow from the

cut meat.

UPON THE SERVING OF WINES.

If only two kinds of wine are served, sherry should accompany the soup

and fish courses, and either claret or champagne brought on with the

roast, and served throughout the remainder of the dinner.

For the ten course dinner, cut glass goblets filled with water and

crushed ice are placed at the right of each plate, about ten or twelve

inches from the edge of the table. With these are grouped sauterne,

sherry, rhinewine, claret, champagne, burgundy and liqueur glasses. The

goblet of water remains in place throughout the dinner, being refilled

at intervals.

First Course. With the oysters, a glass of sauterne is the most

appropriate accompaniment. This should be served in light green glasses,

poured from native bottles, which have been cooled to 52 degrees

Fahrenheit, but never iced. When the oyster plates are taken away, the

sauterne glasses should also be removed.

Second Course. With the soup, sherry, slightly cooled, should be served

from a decanter, and poured into small white stem glasses, flaring

slightly at the top. The sherry glasses should be removed after this

course.

Third Course. With the hors d'oeuvres, which may consist of cold side

dishes, such as canapes, caviar, or anchovies, or of hot dishes, such as

timbales, croustades or bouchees; and

Fourth Course. Of fish, rhine wine is served from original bottles

cooled to 52 degrees, and poured into long stemmed, light green glasses.

Fifth Course. With the entree, claret is served from a decanter having a

handle and poured into pure white glasses, never colored. The

temperature of the claret should be from 65 to 75 degrees, at least

thirteen degrees warmer than other wines.

Sixth Course. With the roast, champagne is served from native bottles,

as cold as possible, but not iced. The usual champagne glasses are

saucer-shaped stem glasses, although some prefer a goblet shape, one

size larger than a claret glass.

Seventh Course. A sherbet. With this cooling refreshment, regular

sherbet glasses (small glass cups with handles) are necessary.

Eighth Course. Game with salad should be accompanied with burgundy,

slightly warm, at 65 or 70 degrees, served from native bottles in wicker

basket, poured into plain crystal glasses. After the eighth course the

table is cleared for the first time of all plates, knives and forks,

leaving only the water goblets, champagne and liqueur glasses before the

guests. All crumbs are carefully swept away, and dessert spoons and

forks laid for the

Ninth Course. With this course champagne is the favorite beverage in

every country. After the dessert plates, forks and spoons are removed, a

finger-bowl partly filled with water is placed before each guest, on

plate having upon it a doily, a fruit knife and a nut pick (if fruits

and nuts are to be served). After the fruits, cognac and liqueurs, such

as annisette, benedictine, chartreuse or kummel, are served in miniature

decanters, without handles, and poured into tiny thimble-shaped glasses,

which should match the decanters, either plain or colored, cut or in

striking gold effects. Creme de menthe is served on shaved ice in a

special bowl-shaped glass, from a highly decorated small decanter either

of white or colored glass without a handle.

Sherry, port and madeira are improved by being decantered several hours

before using. In winter, the decanters should be dipped in warm water or

otherwise warmed.

All possible care should be taken in handling and decanting wines in

order not to disturb the deposit which may exist in the bottle. Nearly

all wines precipitate a sediment which sometimes resembles sand or white

crystals. Its presence is rather a mark of superiority than inferiority

in the quality of the wine. This deposit, however, if shaken, destroys

the brilliancy of the wine, and impairs its flavor and bouquet.

Lighter wines, such as bordeaux and most Italian wines, should be

decanted only an hour before dinner, and brought into the dining room

as late as possible before using. Sauterne, rhine wine, burgundy and

champagne should be served from the original bottles, which should be

stood up on end at least twenty-four hours before serving, to give the

sediment time to settle at the bottom. The cork should be very carefully

drawn without shaking the bottle, the bottle slowly tilted, and the

clear wine gently poured out. A small quantity of wine containing the

sediment should be left in the bottle. Putting ice in the wine glass

will spoil the flavor of any fine wine.

A few drops of wine should first be poured into the host's glass, before

serving the guests. If a toast to the health of any one present be

proposed, the guest in whose honor the toast is given, must not drink,

but should acknowledge the compliment with a smile and bow of thanks.

The etiquette in regard to the German custom of clinking glasses is very

well defined. One must hold the wine glass by the stem, being careful

not to touch the bowl with the fingers. Convention also requires that

one must look the person with whom one clinks glasses in the eye, and

not at the wine, as one unfamiliar with this custom is very apt to do.