The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a bedside
stand. This is a very desirable piece of furniture and is simple and
easy to make. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use in its
construction. The material should be ordered from the mill ready cut to
length, squared and sanded. The following list of material will be
required:
4 posts, 1-3/4 by 1-3/4 by 33 in., S-4-S.
1 top board, 1 by 19 by 19 in., S-4-S.
3 intermediate boards, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 17 in., S-4-S.
2 side boards, 3/4 by 5 by 15-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 back board, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 side rails, 3/4 by 2 by 16 in., S-4-S.
1 door, 3/4 by 9 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 back board, 3/4 by 10-1/4 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 panels, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S.
6 slats, 1/4 by 1 by 8-3/4 in., S-4-S.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 14-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 sides for drawer, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 16 in., S-4-S.
1 back for drawer, 1/2 by 4-1/4 by 13-1/2 in., soft wood.
1 bottom for drawer, 1/2 by 13-1/2 by 15 in., soft wood.
[Illustration: Medicine Stand in Quarter-Sawed Oak]
Start work on the four posts by rounding the top corners and shaping the
feet as shown. The four posts are identical and the mortises should be
laid out on all four at once so as to get them all alike. These should
be carefully cut with a sharp chisel. On the inner surface of each leg
cut a groove to hold the side boards of the lower compartment. Next
prepare the two wide and the four narrow crosspieces, tenoning them to
fit the mortises already cut in the legs. The lower crosspieces should
also have grooves cut in them to hold the side boards of the
compartment. The two complete sides can now be glued and clamped
together and set away to dry. While they are drying the remaining parts
of the stand can be made. The three horizontal boards are now made by
notching out the corners to fit around the legs. They are supported by
fastening small cleats to the inner surface of each crosspiece.
[Illustration: Detail of the Medicine Stand]
The two ends can now be set up and connected. Notch out the corners of
the top board and fit it in place. The top is fastened down by means of
screws set in at an angle from below. The back boards can be of soft
wood and are fastened in place in the usual manner. The door should be
of one piece if possible and should have suitable hinges and a catch.
Make and fit the drawer in place, and the stand is ready for the finish.
First scrape all the surplus glue from about the points so the stain
will not be kept from the wood. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then
apply stain of the color desired.
A MISSION HALL CHAIR
This hall chair is designed to take up as little room as possible. For
its construction the following stock will be needed:
1 back, 7/8 by 14 by 44 in., S-2-S.
2 sides, 7/8 by 14 by 17 in., S-2-S.
1 seat, 7/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-2-S.
1 stretcher, 7/8 by 6 by 16 in., S-2-S.
1 brace, 7/8 by 5 by 11 in., S-2-S.
1 piece, 7/8 by 7/8 by 44 in., for cleats.
These dimensions are for finished pieces, therefore 1/4 in. should be
allowed for planing if the stock cannot be secured finished.
Lay out and cut the design on the back, sides, and brace. To cut the
openings, first bore a hole near one corner to get the blade of a coping
saw through and proceed to saw to the lines. Smooth the edges after
sawing by taking a thin shaving with a sharp chisel. A file will not
leave a good surface.
Mark the tenons on the ends of the stretcher and cut them with a backsaw
and make smooth with a chisel. From the tenons mark the mortises in the
sides through which they are to pass.
[Illustration: Detail of the Hall Chair]
[Illustration: Complete Hall Chair in Plain Oak]
To cut these mortises, first bore a row of holes with a 5/8 in. bit,
boring halfway from each side so as not to split off any pieces. Now
make of scrap material the two keys and from them mark the small
mortises in the tenons.
Before putting the chair together, the cleats for holding the seat
should be fastened to the sides, back and brace. Use flat-head screws
for this purpose. Then put the sides and stretcher together, and fasten
the back to the sides with flat-head screws.
The brace should be put in next, using three round-head screws in each
end. There only remains the top, which is held by screws through the
cleats from the under side.
Stain with two coats of weathered or mission-oak stain, and then apply a
thin coat of "under-lac" or shellac and two coats of wax.
[Illustration]
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
Table of Contents was moved to the front of the doument
Bold text in the original manuscript is indicated with "$...$"
Folio 84: "Chipppendale" changed to "Chippendale".
Folio 90: "2 drawer ends 7/8 x ? x 7-1/2" was changed to an assumed
5-1/2 from context of the illustration.
A table of contents was added to the front of the text.
A list of illustrations was added to the front of the text.