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MISSION FURNITURE
HOW TO MAKE IT
PART I
POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS
CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO.
Copyrighted, 1909,
by H.H. WINDSOR
This book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being
published by the Popular Mechanics Company.
Like Popular Mechanics Magazine, and like the other books in this
series, it is "written so you can understand it."
The purpose of Popular Mechanics Handbooks is to supply a growing demand
for high-class, up-to-date and accurate text-books, suitable for home
study as well as for class use, on all mechanical subjects.
The text and illustrations, in each instance, have been prepared
expressly for this series by well known experts, and revised by the
editor of Popular Mechanics.
CONTENTS
HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR, 5
HOW TO MAKE A LAMP STAND, 8
HOW TO MAKE A PORCH CHAIR, 15
HOW TO MAKE A TABOURET, 17
HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR, 22
HOME-MADE MISSION BOOK RACK, 27
HOW TO MAKE A MISSION LIBRARY, 29
HOME-MADE MISSION CANDLESTICK, 35
ANOTHER STYLE OF MISSION CHAIR, 36
HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH A MAGAZINE STAND, 42
HOME-MADE LAWN SWING, 47
HOW TO MAKE A PORTABLE TABLE, 50
HOW TO MAKE A COMBINATION BILLIARD TABLE AND DAVENPORT, 51
EASILY MADE BOOK SHELVES, 56
A BLACKING CASE TABOURET, 57
HOW TO MAKE A ROLL TOP DESK, 62
HOW TO MAKE A ROMAN CHAIR, 67
HOW TO MAKE A SETTEE, 70
HOW TO MAKE A PYROGRAPHER'S TABLE, 74
MISSION STAINS, 76
FILLING OAK, 77
WAX FINISHING, 78
FUMING OF OAK, 78
HOW TO MAKE BLACK WAX, 79
THE 40 STYLES OF CHAIRS, 80
HOW TO MAKE A PIANO BENCH, 87
HOW TO MAKE A MISSION SHAVING STAND, 89
A MISSION WASTE-PAPER BASKET, 93
A CELLARETTE PEDESTAL, 96
A DRESSER, 100
A MISSION SIDEBOARD, 103
A HALL OR WINDOW SEAT, 107
A MISSION PLANT STAND, 109
A BEDSIDE MEDICINE STAND, 112
A MISSION HALL CHAIR, 115
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Suitable for Dining Room Use, 5
Details of Chair Construction, 6
The Completed Lamp, 9 Construction of Shade, 11
Details of Construction of Library Lamp Stand, 12
Details of Home-Made Porch Seat, 14
Porch Chair Finished, 16 Details of Tabouret, 18
Tabouret as Completed, 20
Complete Morris Chair Without Cushion, 23
Details of a Morris Chair, 24
Light but Strong, 27
Details of Stand, 28
This Picture is from a Photograph of the Mission Table Described in
This Article, 29
Showing Dimensions of Table, 30
Details of Table Construction, 32
Candlestick, 35
Details of Candlestick, 35
Mission Chair Complete, 37
Details of Mission Chair Construction, 39
Completed Stand, 43
Details of the Magazine Stand, 45
The Completed Swing, 47
Details of Seat, 48
Showing Construction of Stand, 49
Table for Outdoor Use, 50
By Swinging the Top Back the Table is Transformed into the Elegant
Davenport Seen on the Opposite Page, 52
The Billiard Table as Converted into a Luxurious Davenport--A Child
Can Make the Change in a Moment, 53
Details Showing Dimensions of Parts, 54
Details of Shoe Rest, 56
Details of Tabouret Construction, 57
The Desk Complete, 58
Details of Tabouret Construction, 59
The Desk Complete, 61
Rolltop Details, 62
Details, 64
Detail of Pigeonholes, 66
The Roman Chair, 67
Details of Parts of Chair, 69
A Complete Two-Cushion Settee, 71
Details of a Mission Settee, 72
Details of the Cushion, 73
Convenient Pyrographer's Table, 74
Storage for Apparatus, 75
Chairs 1, 81
Chairs 2, 83
Chairs 3, 85
Chairs 4, 86
Piano Bench, 87
Piano Bench Details, 88
Shaving Stand Details, 90
Shaving Stand Complete, 91
Mirror Frame and Standards Details, 92
Waste-Paper Basket to Match Library Table, 93
Detail of Waste-Paper Basket, 94
Plain-Oak Cellarette Pedestal, 97
Detail of Cellarette Pedestal, 99
Dresser in Quarter-Sawed Oak, 101
Detail of the Dresser, 102
Detail of the Mission Sideboard, 104
Mission Sideboard in Quarter-Sawed Oak, 105
Seat Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak, 107
Detail of the Hall or Window Seat, 109
Detail of the Plant Stand, 110
Complete Plant Stand, 111
Medicine Stand in Quarter-Sawed Oak, 113
Detail of the Medicine Stand, 114
Detail of the Hall Chair, 116
Complete Hall Chair in Plain Oak, 117
HOME-MADE MISSION CHAIR
[Illustration: Suitable for Dining Room Use]
[Illustration: Details of Chair Construction]
A mission chair suitable for the dining room can be made from any one of
the furniture woods to match the other articles of furniture. The
materials can be secured from the planing mill dressed and sandpapered
ready to cut the tenons and mortises. The material list can be made up
from the dimensions given in the detail drawing. The front legs or
posts, as well as the back ones, are made from 1-3/4-in. square stock,
the back ones having a slope of 2 in. from the seat to the top. All the
slats are made from 7/8-in. material and of such widths as are shown in
the detail. The three upright slats in the back are 3/4-in. material.
The detail drawing shows the side and back, the front being the same as
the back from the seat down. All joints are mortised in the posts, as
shown. The joints, however, can be made with dowels if desired. If
making dowel joints they must be clamped very tight when glued and put
together. The seat can be made from one piece of 7/8-in. material,
fitted with notches around the posts. This is then upholstered with
leather without using springs. Leather must be selected as to color to
suit the kind of wood used in making the chair. The seat can also be
made with an open center for a cane bottom by making a square of four
pieces of 7/8-in. material about 4 in. wide. These pieces are fitted
neatly to the proper size and dowelled firmly together. After the cane
is put in the opening the cane is covered over and upholstered with
leather in the same manner as with a solid bottom.
HOW TO MAKE A LAMP STAND AND SHADE
A library light stand of pleasing design and easy construction is made
as follows: Square up a piece of white oak so that it shall have a width
and thickness of 1-3/4 in. with a length of 13 in. Square up two pieces
of the same kind of material to the same width and thickness, but with a
length of 12 in. each. Square up two pieces to a width and length of 3
in. each with a thickness of 1-1/8 in.
If a planing mill is near, time and patience will be saved by ordering
one piece 1-3/4 in. square and 40 in. long, two pieces 1-1/8 in. thick
and 3 in. square, all planed and sandpapered on all surfaces. The long
piece can then be cut at home to the lengths specified above.
The 13-in. piece is for the upright and should have a 1/2-in. hole bored
the full length through the center. If the bit is not long enough to
reach entirely through, bore from each end, then use a red-hot iron to
finish. This hole is for the electric wire or gas pipe if gas is used.
The two pieces for the base are alike except the groove of one is cut
from the top and of the other from the under side, as shown. Shape the
under sides first. This can best be done by placing the two pieces in a
vise, under sides together, and boring two holes with a 1-in. bit. The
center of each hole will be 2-1/2 in. from either end and in the crack
between the pieces. The pieces can then be taken out, lines gauged on
each side of each, and the wood between the holes removed with turning
saw and scraper steel.
[Illustration: The Completed Lamp]
The width of the grooves must be determined by laying one piece upon the
other; a try-square should be used to square the lines across the
pieces; however, gauge for depth, gauging both pieces from their top
surfaces. Chisel out the grooves and round off the corners as shown in
the sketch, using a 3/4-in. radius.
These parts may be put together and fastened to the upright by means of
two long screws from the under side, placed to either side of the
1/2-in. hole. This hole must be continued through the pieces forming the
base.
The braces are easiest made by taking the two pieces which were planed
to 1-1/8 in. thick and 3 in. square and drawing a diagonal on each. Find
the middle of this diagonal by drawing the central portion of the other
diagonal; at this point place the spur of the bit and bore a 1-in. hole
in each block.
Saw the two blocks apart, sawing along a diagonal of each. Plane the
surfaces on the saw cut smooth and sandpaper the curve made by the bit.
Fasten the braces in place by means of roundhead blued screws.
To make a shade such as is shown in the illustration is rather
difficult. The shade is made of wood glued up and has art glass fitted
in rabbets cut on the inner edges. Such shades can be purchased ready to
attach. The sketch shows one method of attaching. Four small pieces of
strap iron are bent to the shape shown and fastened to the four sides of
the upright. Electric globes--two, three or four may be attached as
shown.
[Illustration: Construction of Shade]
The kind of wood finish for the stand will depend upon the finish on the
wooden shade, if shade is purchased. Brown Flemish is obtained by first
staining the wood with Flemish water stain diluted by the addition of
two parts water to one part stain. When this is dry, sandpaper the
"whiskers" which were raised by the water and fill with a medium dark
filler. Directions will be found on the filler cans. When filler has
hardened, apply two coats of wax.
[Illustration: Details of Construction of Library Lamp Stand]
The metal shade as shown in the sketch is a "layout" for a copper or
brass shade of a size suitable for this particular lamp. Such shades are
frequently made from one piece of sheet metal and designs are pierced in
them as suggested in the "layout." This piercing is done by driving the
point of a nail through the metal from the under side before the parts
are soldered or riveted together. If the parts are to be riveted, enough
additional metal must be left on the last panel to allow for a lap. No
lap is needed when joints are soldered.
A better way, and one which will permit the use of heavier metal, is to
cut each side of the shade separately and fasten them together by
riveting a piece of metal over each joint. The shape of this piece can
be made so as to accentuate the rivet heads and thus give a pleasing
effect.
For art-glass the metal panels are cut out, the glass is inserted from
the under side and held in place by small clips soldered to the frame of
the shade.
Pleasing effects are obtained by using one kind of metal, as brass, and
reinforcing and riveting with another metal, such as copper.
[Illustration: Details of Home-Made Porch Seat]
HOW TO MAKE A PORCH CHAIR
The illustration shows a very comfortable and attractive porch chair
that can be made with few tools and easily procured material. Most any
kind of wood will answer, says the American Carpenter and Builder, but
if open grained wood, such as oak or chestnut, is used, the parts should
be filled with a paste filler. If the natural color of the wood is not
desired, the wood may first be stained, the filler being colored
somewhat darker than the stain.
Procure enough lumber to make all the pieces shown in the detail drawing
and finish to the dimensions shown, being careful to make the
corresponding pieces exactly alike in order to preserve the perfect
symmetry which is necessary in work of this kind. In boring the holes
care must be taken to keep both edges of the holes sharp and clean. The
holes should each be bored until the spur shows; the bit should then be
withdrawn and the rest of the boring be done from the other side. The
semicircular notches are made by placing the two pieces edge to edge in
the vise and placing the spur of the bit in the crack. The 1-in. bit is
used. As it will be difficult to finish the boring of these blocks from
the second side, the parts remaining may be cut out with the knife after
the pieces have been separated.
Five 1/2-in. dowel rods are needed. It is possible to get these in one
long piece if you happen to live near a mill and then all you will have
to do is to saw off the desired lengths. However, if they cannot be got
easily you can make your own. Two rods each 18-1/4 in. long; two rods
each 20-1/4 in. and one rod 22-1/4 in. give the exact lengths. It is
well to cut each piece a little longer than required so that the ends
which are imperfectly formed may be cut off. These rods should fit tight
and may be fastened in addition with a small screw or nail from the
under or back side.
[Illustration: Porch Chair Finished]
The hand rests should be nailed to the arms with small nails or brads
before the arms are bolted. The illustration of the assembled chair
shows the relative position.
The bolts should be 1/4 in. and of the following lengths: 4 bolts 2-1/4
in. long; 2 bolts 2 in. long; 2 bolts 3 in. long. Washers should be
placed between adjacent pieces of wood fastened together with bolts and
also at both ends of the bolts. This will require 26 washers in all.
While the size of the chair may be varied, it will be necessary to keep
the proportions if the parts are to fold properly.
HOW TO MAKE A TABOURET
Secure from the planing mill the following pieces and have them planed
and sandpapered on two surfaces: For the top, one piece 7/8 in. thick
and 17 in. square. For the legs, four pieces 7/8 in. thick, 4-3/4 in.
wide and 18-1/2 in. long. For the lower stretchers, two pieces 7/8 in.
thick, 2-3/4 in. wide and 15-3/4 in. long. For the top stretchers, two
pieces 7/8 in. thick, 2-1/4 in. wide and 13-1/4 in. long. No stock need
be ordered for the keys, as they can be made out of the waste pieces
remaining after the legs are shaped.
Begin work on the four legs first. While both sides of each leg slope,
it will be necessary to plane a joint edge on each leg from which to lay
out the mortises, grooves and to test the ends. It will be necessary to
have a bevel square to use in marking off the slopes and for testing
them. To get the setting for the bevel square, make a full sized "lay
out" or drawing of the necessary lines in their proper relation to one
another and adjust the bevel to those lines.
From the joint edge lay out the mortises, grooves and the slopes of
sides and ends of the legs. Cut the mortises and grooves first, then
shape up the sides. Saw the sides accurately and quite close to the
lines, finishing with the steel cabinet scraper.
[Illustration: Details of Tabouret]
Next make the bottom stretchers. In laying out the cross lap joint, the
working faces are both to be up when the joint is completed, therefore
lay off one groove on the face of one piece and on the side opposite the
face on the other. In gauging for depth, however, be careful to keep the
gauge block against the working face of each piece.
In laying out the mortises for the keys, the opening on the top surface
is to be made 1/8 in. longer than on the under surface. The slope of
the key will therefore be 1/8 in. of slope to each 7/8 in. of length.
The drawing shows the mortise as 7/8 in. from the shoulders of the
tenon. This distance is the same as the thickness of the leg and to
insure the key's pulling the shoulder up against the leg firmly, should
any of the legs happen to be a little less than 7/8 in., it is well to
make the mortise slightly nearer the shoulder than 7/8 in.
It is a good plan to lay out the mortise in the tenon at the same time
the shoulders of the tenons are laid out. Otherwise the joint edge being
cut off in making the tenon there is no convenient way to locate this
mortise accurately.
Lay off the top stretchers according to the dimensions shown in the
drawing. Observe the same precautions about the cross lap joint as were
given for the lower stretchers, except that the joint edges are to be
placed up in this latter case. Make sure the grooves are laid out in the
middle before cutting. As a test, place the pieces side by side, examine
the markings, then turn one of them end for end and again examine.
The grooves into which the legs pass are 1/8 in. deep and must be very
carefully cut. Their purpose is to give rigidity to the tabouret frame.
Bore two holes in each stretcher for the screws that are to fasten the
top in place.
Make the keys, scrape all the parts and sandpaper those that were not so
treated at the mill. Use glue to fasten the tops of the legs to the top
stretchers and assemble these parts.
The top is octagonal or eight-sided. To make it, square up a piece to
16-1/2 by 16-1/2 in. Measure the diagonal, take one-half of it and
measure from each corner of the board each way along the edges to locate
the places at which to cut off the corners. Connect these points, saw
and plane the remaining four sides. There is to be a 5/8-in. bevel on
the under side of the top. Scrape and sandpaper these edges and secure
the top to the stretchers with screws.
[Illustration: Tabouret as Completed]
Much time can be saved and a better result obtained if the wood
finishing is done before the parts are put together. Especially is this
true if stain and filler are used.
A very pretty finish and one easily put on even after the parts are put
together is obtained as follows: Take a barrel and stuff up the cracks
or paste paper over them so as to make it as near airtight as possible.
In some out-of-the-way place put a dish with about 2 oz. of strong
ammonia. Set the tabouret over this dish and quickly invert the barrel
over the tabouret. Allow the fumes to act on the wood for at least 15
hours. Remove the barrel and allow the fumes to escape. Polish with
several coats of wax such as is used upon floors. Directions for waxing
will be found on the cans that contain the wax.. This produces the rich
nut-brown finish so popular in Arts and Crafts furniture and is known as
fumed oak.
HOW TO MAKE A MORRIS CHAIR
The stock necessary to make a morris chair of craftsman design as shown
in the engraving can be purchased mill-planed and sandpapered on four
sides as given in the following list:
4 posts 1-3/4 by 3 by 26 in.
2 front and back rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 24 in.
2 side rails 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 28 in.
2 arm pieces 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 37 in.
7 slats 3/8 by 2 by 24 in.
2 cleats 1 by 1 by 22-1/2 in.
2 back stiles 1 by 2-1/2 by 24-1/2 in.
2 back rails 1 by 2 by 17 in.
3 back slats 3/8 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
1 back support 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in.
2 support rests 1 by 1-1/2 by 8-1/2 in.
2 dowels 1/2 in. diameter, 6 in. long.
First make and put together the sides of the chair. While the glue is
setting on these parts make and assemble the back. The front and back
rails may next be made and placed and the cleats and bottom slats
fastened. With the adjustment of the back the chair is ready for the
finish.
The posts are to be tenoned on the upper ends. These tenons are to
project 3/16 in. above the arm and should be slightly beveled. The lower
ends of the posts, likewise, all other projecting ends, should be
beveled to avoid their splintering. All sharp corners, as on the arms,
should be sandpapered just enough to take their sharpness off, so as not
to injure the hand.
That the chair may be properly inclined, the rear posts are cut 1 in.
shorter than the forward ones. To get the correct slant on the bottoms
of these posts, lay a straightedge so that its edge touches the bottom
of the front post at its front surface, but keep it 1 in. above the
bottom of the rear post. Mark with pencil along the straightedge across
both posts.
[Illustration: Complete Morris Chair Without Cushion]
[Illustration: Details of a Morris Chair]
At the rear ends of the arms are the notched pieces that allow the back
to be adjusted to different angles. These pieces may be fastened in
place either by means of roundhead screws from above or flatheads from
underneath the arms. The notches are to be cut 3/4 in. deep. If more
than three adjustments are wanted, the arms must be made correspondingly
longer.
The dimensions for the tenons on all the larger pieces will be found on
the drawing. For the back, the tenons of the cross pieces, the rails,
should be 3/8 by 1-1/4-in. For the slats, the easiest way is to not
tenon them but to "let in" the whole end, making the mortises in the
rails 3/8 by 1-1/2 in. This will necessitate cutting the sides of the
mortises very accurately, but this extra care will be more than
compensated by not having to bother with the cutting of tenons on each
end of the three back slats.
To finish the chair, put on a coat of water stain, first removing all
surplus glue and thoroughly scraping and sandpapering all the parts that
were not so treated at the mill. The color of the stain will depend upon
the finish desired, whether golden, mission, etc. Water stains cause the
grain of the wood to roughen, so it will be necessary to resandpaper the
surfaces after the stain has dried, using fine paper. Next apply a coat
of filler colored to match the stain. Directions for its application
will be found upon the cans in which the filler comes. After the filler
has hardened put on a very thin coat of shellac.
What step is taken next will depend upon what kind of a surface is
desired. Several coats of polishing wax may be put on. This is easily
done--directions will be found on the cans--and makes the most
satisfactory finish for mission and craftsman furniture. It is the
easiest to apply. Several coats of shellac or of varnish might be put on
instead of wax. Each coat of the shellac should be rubbed when
thoroughly dried with curled hair or fine steel wool or fine oiled
sandpaper. Rub the first coats of varnish with hair-cloth or curled hair
and the last coats with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw
linseed oil.
Cushions for the chair can be made at home. They may be made of art
leather such as Spanish roan skin and the top and bottom parts fastened
together by lacing leather thongs through holes previously punched along
the edges of the parts. A very pretty effect is obtained by using thongs
of a different but harmonious color. The manner of lacing may be any one
of the various laces such as are used in lacing belts or as shoestrings.
These cushions may be filled with hair or cotton felt. Denim or burlap
may also be used as a covering and are much less expensive than the
leather. Lace one side and the two ends, then place filling and finish
lacing.
Art leather cushions retail at from $16 to $20 a pair and the denim and
burlap at $6 to $9.
The bottom cushion should be made the full size of the chair. The front
and back rails extend a little above the slats and thus hold it in
place. The back cushion will settle down a little and therefore may be
made nearly the full length from the slats to the top of the back.
HOME-MADE MISSION BOOK RACK
[Illustration: Light but Strong]
When making the book rack as shown in the accompanying photograph use
quarter-sawed oak if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
finishing in the different mission stains. This piece of furniture is
very attractive and simple to construct. The upper shelf can be used
for vases or a plant of some kind, while the lower shelves afford ample
room for books and magazines.
The slats and legs are fastened to the shelves with 2-in. round-headed
brass screws. These can be purchased from any hardware store. One screw
is used at each joint of a slat and shelf which calls for 32 screws in
all. Holes should be bored into the slats and legs in which to insert
the screws. This will keep the wood from splitting. The dimensions are
given in the diagram sketch, although these may be changed to suit the
requirement of the builder. If no glue is used on the joints when
setting up, the rack can easily be taken apart and put in a small bundle
for moving.
[Illustration: Details of Stand]
HOW TO MAKE A MISSION LIBRARY TABLE
The mission library table, the drawings for which are here given, has
been found well proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made
of any of the several furniture woods in common use, such as selected,
quarter-sawed white oak which will be found exceptionally pleasing in
the effect produced.
[Illustration: This Picture is from a Photograph of the Mission Table
Described in This Article]
If a planing mill is at hand the stock can be ordered in such a way as
to avoid the hard work of planing and sandpapering. Of course if
mill-planed stock cannot be had, the following dimensions must be
enlarged slightly to allow for "squaring up the rough."
[Illustration: Showing Dimensions of Table]
For the top, order 1 piece 1-1/8 in. thick, 34 in. wide and 46 in. long.
Have it S-4-S (surface on four sides) and "squared" to length. Also
specify that it be sandpapered on the top surface, the edges and ends.
For the shelf, order 1 piece 7/8 in. thick, 22 in. wide and 42 in. long,
with the four sides surfaced, squared and sandpapered the same as for
the top.
For the side rails, order 2 pieces 7/8 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 37 in.
long, S-4-S and sanded on one side. For the end rails, 2 pieces 7/8 in.
thick, 6 in. wide and 25 in. long. Other specifications as for the side
rails.
For the stretchers, into which the shelf tenons enter, 2 pieces 1-1/8
in. thick, 3-3/4 in. wide and 25 in. long, surfaced and sanded on four
sides. For the slats, 10 pieces 5/8 in. thick, 1-1/2 in. wide and 17 in.
long, surfaced and sanded on four sides. For the keys, 4 pieces 3/4 in.
thick, 1-1/4 in. wide and 2-7/8 in. long, S-4-S. This width is a little
wide; it will allow the key to be shaped as desired.
The drawings obviate any necessity for going into detail in the
description. Fig. 1 gives an assembly drawing showing the relation of
the parts. Fig. 2 gives the detail of an end. The tenons for the side
rails are laid off and the mortises placed in the post as are those on
the end. Care must be taken, however, not to cut any mortises on the
post below, as was done in cutting the stretcher mortises on the ends of
the table. A good plan is to set the posts upright in the positions they
are to occupy relative to one another and mark with pencil the
approximate positions of the mortises. The legs can then be laid flat
and the mortises accurately marked out with a fair degree of assurance
that they will not be cut where they are not wanted and that the legs
shall "pair" properly when effort is made to assemble the parts of the
table.
[Illustration: Details of Table Construction]
The table ends should be glued up first and the glue allowed to harden,
after which the tenons of the shelf may be inserted and the side rails
placed.
There is a reason for the shape, size and location of each tenon or
mortise. For illustration, the shape of the tenon on the top rails
permits the surface of the rail to extend almost flush with the surface
of the post at the same time permitting the mortise in the post to be
kept away from that surface. Again, the shape of the ends of the slats
is such that, though they may vary slightly in length, the fitting of
the joints will not be affected. Care must be taken in cutting the
mortises to keep their sides clean and sharp and to size.
In making the mortises for the keyed tenons, the length of mortise must
be slightly in excess of the width of the tenon--about 1/8 in. of play
to each side of each tenon. With a shelf of the width specified for this
table, if such allowance is not made so that the tenons may move
sideways, the shrinkage would split the shelf.
In cutting across the ends of the shelf, between the tenons, leave a
hole in the waste so that the turning saw or compass saw can be
inserted. Saw within one-sixteenth of the line, after which this margin
may be removed with chisel and mallet.
In Fig. 3 is shown two views of the keyed tenon and the key. The mortise
for the key is to be placed in the middle of the tenon. It will be noted
that this mortise is laid out 1-1/16 in. from the shoulder of the tenon
while the stretcher is 1-1/8 in. thick. This is to insure the key's
pulling the shelf tightly against the side of the stretcher.
Keys may be made in a variety of shapes. The one shown is simple and
structurally good. Whatever shape is used, the important thing to keep
in mind is that the size of the key and the slant of its forward surface
where it passes through the tenon must be kept the same as the mortise
made for it in the tenon.
The top is to be fastened to the rails by means either of wooden
buttons, Fig. 4, or small angle irons.
There are a bewildering number of mission finishes upon the market. A
very satisfactory one is obtained by applying a coat of brown Flemish
water stain, diluted by the addition of water in the proportion of two
parts water to 1 part stain. When this has dried, sand with No. 00
paper, being careful not to "cut through." Next, apply a coat of dark
brown filler; the directions for doing this will be found upon the can
in which the filler is bought. One coat usually suffices. However, if an
especially smooth surface is desired, a second coat may be applied in a
similar manner.
After the filler has hardened, a very thin coat of shellac is to be put
on. When this has dried, it should be sanded lightly and then one or two
coats of wax should be properly applied and polished. Directions for
waxing are upon the cans in which the wax is bought. A beautiful dull
gloss so much sought by finishers of modern furniture will be the result
of carefully following these directions.
HOME-MADE MISSION CANDLESTICK
There are many kinds of mission candlesticks, but few of them carry out
the mission design throughout. Herewith is illustrated a candlestick
which may be made from the various woods that will have the style and
lines of mission craft work. The base is made from 1-in. material, 4-1/2
in. square. Two holes are bored and countersunk for screws to hold the
post and handle. The post is 2-1/4 in. high, bored in one end to fit the
size of a candle. The post is covered with a 3/8-in. thick cap, 2 in.
square. This, also, is bored to fit the candle. The handle is 3/8 in.
thick and 3 in. long with a 3/8-in. square mortise and is notched to fit
the base. The wood may be selected to match any other piece of furniture
and finished in any of the mission stains.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: Details of Candlestick]
ANOTHER STYLE OF MISSION CHAIR
The material necessary to make a mission chair as shown in the
accompanying illustration may be secured from a planing mill with all
four surfaces squared and sandpapered. The mill can do this work quickly
and the expense will be nothing compared with the time it takes to do
the work by hand.
The following is the stock list:
4 legs, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 32-1/2 in.
2 bottom end rails 7/8 by 5-3/4 by 23-1/2 in.
2 bottom side rails 7/8 by 5-3/4 by 28-1/2 in.
2 top end rails 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 23-1/2 in.
1 top back rail 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 28-1/2 in.
2 cleats 7/8 by 2-1/2 by 26-1/2 in.
7 slats 1/2 by 2 by 24 in.
This design was purposely made simple. If it is considered too severe
and the worker has had some experience in woodwork, it can easily be
modified by adding vertical slats in back and sides. These should be
made of 1/2-in. stock and their ends should be "let into" the rails by
means of mortises.
Either plain red oak or quarter-sawed white oak will do. Begin by
squaring up one end of each leg, marking and cutting them to length and
planing up the second ends so that they shall be square. Both the top
and bottom of each leg should be beveled or rounded off about 1/4 in. so
that they may not splinter or cause injury to the hand.
When all of the legs have been made of the same length, set them on end
in the positions they are to have relative to one another and mark with
pencil the approximate locations of the mortises. Next, place them on
the bench, side by side, even the ends and square sharp lines across
to indicate the ends of the mortises. The drawing shows the dimensions
to use. A sharp pencil should be used for this marking and the lines
should be carried entirely across the two faces of each piece.
[Illustration: Mission Chair Complete]
Set the gauge for the side of the mortise nearest the face edge. With
this setting, mark all the mortises, then set for the second side of the
mortise and complete the gauging.
There are two ways of cutting small mortises in common use. One is by
using a chisel of a width just equal to that of the mortise. The other
is by using a smaller chisel after the mortise has first been bored with
the brace and bit. In the first method the cutting is begun at the
middle of the mortise where a V-shaped opening is made the full depth of
the mortise that is to be. Continuing from the middle, vertical cuts are
taken first toward one end and then toward the other. The chips are
pried out as the cutting proceeds. In making the last cut this prying
must be omitted, otherwise the edge of the mortise would be ruined. It
will be necessary to stand so as to look along the opening in order to
get the sides plumb.
This method of cutting, when once the "knack" has been attained, will be
found much easier, quicker and more accurate for small openings, such as
these, than the usual method. The second method, which is the usual one,
needs no description.
[Illustration: Details of Mission Chair Construction]
The rails should next have the tenons cut on their ends. It may not be
out of place to remind the amateur that the lengths of the various like
pieces can best be laid off by placing them on the bench, measuring off
the proper distances on one of them and then with try-square marking
across the edges of all of them at once. This not only saves time in
that but one set of measurements need be made, but it insures all the
pieces being similarly laid off. In measuring off for the shoulders of
the tenons, begin at the middle of the length of the rail and measure
half of the distance each way. By doing so, if there are any slight
differences in the lengths of the pieces this difference will be divided
between the two tenons and no harm will be done.
In gauging the tenons take the precaution to mark a working face and
joint edge, even if all the surfaces were finish-planed at the mill. It
is very important that all tenon gauging be done from these faces. The
same is true of the legs or posts, and the slats if there are to be any.
To avoid confusion it is well to number each tenon by means of the
chisel with a Roman numeral and its corresponding mortise with the same.
This will prevent the fitting of one tenon into more than one mortise.
Put the parts together with warm glue if it can be had, otherwise use
the prepared cold glue. In cold weather the wood ought to be warmed
before the glue is applied. Put the ends of the chair together first.
When the glue has set on these put the other rails in place.
When clamping up the second set of rails make sure the frame of the
chair is square. The best way to test for squareness is to measure the
diagonals with a stick. Spring the frame until they measure alike, using
a brace to hold the frame in position until the glue can harden.
Before staining, scrape off any surplus glue, for stain will not adhere
to glue and a white spot will be the result of failing to remove it.
Fasten cleats to the front and back rails with screws. To these cleats
fasten the slats as shown in the drawing. A cushion of Spanish leather,
such as is shown in the photograph, can be bought at the furniture store
or the upholsterer's. It can be made by the amateur quite easily,
however. The two parts are fastened together with leather thongs and the
filling is of hair or elastic felt. A cushion for the back might well be
provided.
To finish the wood to match a brown leather proceed as follows: With a
cloth or brush, stain the wood with brown Flemish water stain diluted by
the addition of four parts of water. When this has dried, sandpaper
smooth, using No. 00 paper held on the tips of the fingers. Apply a dark
brown filler. When this has flatted, i.e., when the gloss has
disappeared, which will be in the course of ten or fifteen minutes, wipe
off clean with excelsior and then with waste or a cloth. Allow this to
dry over night, then apply two or three coats of wax. Polish each coat
with a flannel cloth by briskly rubbing it.
A settle can be made after this design by using longer front and back
rails. Rails 42 in. between shoulders will make a good length for a
settle.
HOW TO MAKE AND FINISH A MAGAZINE STAND
For the magazine stand shown herewith there will be needed the following
pieces:
1 top, 7/8 in. by 15-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in.
1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 11-1/2 in. by 12-1/2 in.
1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 12-1/2 in. by 14-3/4 in.
1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 13-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in.
2 sides, 7/8 in. by 14-1/2 in. by 33-1/2 in.
1 brace, 7/8 in. by 3-1/4 in. by 17 in.
1 brace, 7/8 in. by 2-1/2 in. by 11-1/2 in.
6 braces, 7/8 in. by 2 in. by 2 in.
Order these pieces mill-planed on two surfaces to the thickness
specified above and also sandpapered. Quarter-sawed white oak makes the
best appearance of all the woods that are comparatively easy to obtain.
Plain sawed red or white oak will look well but are more liable to warp
than the quarter-sawed. This is quite an element in pieces as wide as
these.
Begin work on the sides first. Plane a joint edge on each and from this
work the two ends. The ends will be square to the joint edge but beveled
to the working face. A bevel square will be needed for testing these
beveled ends.
To set the bevel make a drawing, full size or nearly so, of the front
view and place the bevel on the drawing, adjusting its sides to the
angle wanted. Work from a center line in laying off the drawing.
Having planed the ends, lay off the sides. This is done by measuring
from the joint edge along the bottom 14 in., from the joint edge along
the top 1-1/2 in. and from this 11 in. Connect the points by means of a
pencil and straightedge.
[Illustration: Completed Stand]
Before cutting off the joint edges of the pieces measure off and square
lines across to indicate the locations of the shelves. Put both pieces
together and mark across both joint edges at once to insure getting both
laid off alike.
The design at the bottom can be varied to suit the fancy of the worker.
For such a design as is shown, draw on paper, full size, half of it;
fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline
by cutting along the line just drawn. Trace around this pattern on the
wood, and saw out with compass or turning saw.
The shelves may now be made. The bevel of the ends of the shelves will
be the same as for the ends of the side pieces. The lengths may be
obtained by measuring the drawing. Remember that length is always
measured along the grain and that the end grain of the shelves must
extend from side to side in this stand. The widths may be obtained by
measuring the width of the sides at the points marked out on them for
the location of the shelf ends. It is best not to have the shelves the
full width of the sides, since the edges of the shelves are to be faced
with leather. Make each shelf 1/2 in. less than the width of the side,
at the place that the shelf is to be fastened.
The top will be squared up in the usual manner, 15 in. wide by 16 in.
long.
These parts may now be put together. They may be fastened in any one of
a variety of ways. Round-head blued screws may be placed at regular
intervals through the sides. Finishing nails may be used and the heads
set and covered with putty stained to match the wood. Finish nails may
be placed at regular intervals and fancy headed nails used to cover the
heads.
[Illustration: Details of the Magazine Stand]
The braces should be formed and fitted but not fastened until the finish
has been applied. Thoroughly scrape and sandpaper all parts not already
so treated. Probably no other finish appeals to so many people as golden
oak. There is no fixed standard of color for golden oak. Different
manufacturers have set standards in their part of the country, but the
prevailing idea of golden oak is usually that of a rich reddish brown.
Proceed as follows: Egg shell gloss: 1.--One coat of golden oak water
stain, diluted with water if a light golden is desired. 2.--Allow time
to dry, then sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper. This is to smooth
the grain and to bring up the high lights by removing the stain from the
wood. Use No. 00 sandpaper and hold it on the finger tips. 3.--Apply a
second coat of the stain diluted about one-half with water. This will
throw the grain into still higher relief and thus produce a still
greater contrast. Apply this coat of stain very sparingly, using a rag.
Should this stain raise the grain, again rub lightly with fine worn
sandpaper, just enough to smooth. 4.--When this has dried, put on a
light coat of thin shellac. Shellac precedes filling that it may prevent
the high lights--the solid parts of the wood--from being discolored by
the stain in the filler, and thus causing a muddy effect. The shellac
being thin does not interfere with the filler's entering the pores of
the open grain. 5.--Sand lightly with fine sandpaper. 6.--Fill with
paste filler colored to match the stain. 7.--Cover this with a coat of
orange shellac. This coat of shellac might be omitted, but another coat
of varnish must be added. 8.--Sandpaper lightly. 9.--Apply two or three
coats of varnish. 10.--Rub the first coats with hair cloth or curled
hair and then with pulverized pumice stone, crude oil or linseed oil.
Affix the braces just after filling, using brads and puttying the holes
with putty colored to match the filler. The shelves may be faced with
thin leather harmonizing with the oak, ornamental headed tacks being
used to fasten it in place.
HOME-MADE LAWN SWING
[Illustration: The Completed Swing]
The coming of spring and summer calls forth various kinds of porch and
lawn furniture. A porch or lawn swing to accommodate two or more persons
is a thing desired by most people. The lawn swing as shown in the
picture is portable and does not need stakes to hold it to the ground.
While this swing is substantial and rigid it can be moved from place to
place on the lawn, or the chains can be fastened with heavy hooks to the
ceiling of a porch instead of using the stand. Either ropes or chains
may be used to hang the swing and should be of such length that the seat
will be about 20 in. from the ground or floor.
The drawing giving the dimensions for constructing the seat shows how
the parts are put together. The front and back apron pieces are mortised
to receive a 1-in. square tenon cut on the crosspieces that support the
slats. Each end of the apron pieces extends 4 in., and a hole is bored
at A into which the hanging ropes or chains are fastened. If ropes are
used, bore the holes to fit the rope and when the end of each rope is
put through a hole it is tied in a knot to keep from slipping out.
Chains can be fastened with eye bolts. Small carriage or stove bolts are
used to hold the slats on the framework and cross pieces. The arm rests
are fastened with wood screws.
[Illustration: Details of Seat]
The drawing for the stand gives all the dimensions for its construction.
Split the upright pieces or legs with a saw cut to the length as shown.
A bolt should be put through each piece edgewise at the end of the saw
cut, to keep the wood from splitting any farther when the ends are
spread to receive the bolts through the cross pieces at the top. The
upper ends of the ropes or chains are fastened close to and under the
bolt holding the inside forks of the uprights. This bolt can be long
enough to fasten a clevis that will hang underneath for this purpose.
The whole swing can be painted with a forest green color which is very
suitable for summer outdoor furniture.
[Illustration: Showing Construction of Stand]
HOW TO MAKE A PORTABLE TABLE
[Illustration: Table for Outdoor Use]
A table for outdoor use that can be taken apart, stored or changed from
place to place may be made at small expense. Fasten cleats with screws,
as shown in Fig. 1, to the bottom of a board of suitable size. The legs
are built with a cross piece, A, Fig. 4, at the top which fits into slot
formed by the cleats, CC, and a crosspiece, B, that has two cleats, D,
making a place to receive the bottom end of the brace, E, Fig. 2. The
upper ends of the braces, EE, fit in between two pieces, F, fastened in
the middle of the board. The three pins fitting loosely in DD and F,
Fig. 2, are all that holds table together. The end view is shown in Fig.
3.
HOW TO MAKE A COMBINATION BILLIARD TABLE AND DAVENPORT
A small size billiard table which can be converted quickly into a
davenport is made as follows: Secure clear, selected plain sawed white
oak in sizes as indicated by the drawing. Have these planed at the mill
to the widths and thicknesses specified.
The lower part should be made first. Cut the four posts to length,
chamfering the ends somewhat so that they will not splinter when in use.
Lay out and cut the mortises which are to receive the rails. The lower
rails are to be 1-1/8 in. thick and the mortises are to be laid out in
the legs so as to bring their outer surfaces almost flush with those of
the posts. The upper rails are 2-1/4 in. wide. The slats are 3/4 in.
thick. Tenons should be thoroughly pinned to the sides of the mortises
as shown in the illustration. The braces are 1-3/4 in. thick and are
fastened to place with roundhead screws and glue.
The seat may be made by putting in a solid bottom that shall rest upon
cleats fastened to the inner surfaces of the rails. The top of this
bottom should rest about 3/4 in. below the top edge of the rails. A well
filled leather cushion completes this part.
A more satisfactory result is obtained by putting in springs and
upholstering the seat. Upon this the leather cushion can be placed.
[Illustration: By Swinging the Top Back the Table is Transformed into
the Elegant Davenport Seen on the Opposite Page]
[Illustration: The Billiard Table as Converted into a Luxurious
Davenport--A Child Can Make the Change in a Moment]
The top or table is built upon and about a heavy frame of well seasoned
1-3/4-in. by 5-3/4-in. white pine. The parts to this frame are
thoroughly mortised and tenoned together. Middle stretchers, lengthwise
and crosswise, give added strength and rigidity. Upon this frame the
slate bed is leveled by planing the frame wherever necessary. Slats are
fastened to the bed by screws, the heads of which are countersunk so
that they may be covered over even with plaster of paris.
[Illustration: Details Showing Dimensions of Parts]
The top and side facings are built together, the angle being reinforced
with block and glue, as shown in detail. These facings, to which the
cushions are attached, are afterward made fast to the frame by
ornamental headed screws. The detail and photograph show the manner of
applying the under facing.
Before attaching the top and side facings, the bed cloth should be
placed over the slate and fastened. The nap of the cloth should run from
the head toward the opposite end of the table. Draw the cloth as tight
as possible, taking care that there shall be no wrinkles.
The billiard cushions can be bought ready to cover. The bumpers which
keep the top from striking the front posts can be obtained by making
proper selection from oak door bumpers carried in stock by hardware
dealers. The brass swing bars, most likely, can be obtained at the same
place.
The upholstering on the under side of the top--the back of the
davenport--is to be built upon a stout frame made of some suitable
common wood, and the whole set in the recess formed as shown in the
detail drawing--the whole being fastened from the back before the slate
bed is put in position.
Effort should be made to select leather of a color that will harmonize
with the wood finish which is to be applied.
EASILY MADE BOOK SHELVES
Very cheap but useful and attractive book shelves are shown in the
accompanying drawing. The vertical strips, A, may be 3/4 in. by 2 in.
and are screwed to four shelves, B, each cut to the shape of a quarter
circle. The screws are all countersunk and as the heads all come on the
side next to the wall, they do not show. The design might be varied
somewhat to suit the fancy of the builder, although the appearance of
the shelves constructed as shown is very pleasing, especially so if the
workmanship is good and the wood carefully stained and varnished. The
total cost of construction was less than 75 cents.
[Illustration]
A BLACKING CASE TABOURET
[Illustration]
A substantial piece of mission furniture which may be used as a tabouret
or plant stand as well as a blacking case, in which there is a
receptacle for brushes, blacking and a shoe rest, is shown in the
illustration. The stock can be secured mill-planed, sandpapered and in
lengths almost ready to be assembled. The stock list consists of the
following pieces:
4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 17 in.
4 side rails, 1 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in.
2 top pieces, 1 by 8-1/4 by 16-1/2 in.
1 bottom, 1/4 by 9-1/2 by 9-1/2 in.
1 cleat, 1 by 1 by 18 in.