STOCKHOLM--II
We have been reading about the rise of the city. Let us have a look at
some of the sights.
First of all we must visit the Royal Palace. It is a most imposing
building as it stands on a height overlooking a very deep square. It
is very large, as anyone can tell from the fact that when the late
King had his Jubilee in 1897, all the foreign princes with their
retinues were accommodated in it. The King and Queen and the Crown
Prince, when in Stockholm, live here.
Every Tuesday forenoon the King gives an audience to any of his
subjects who may desire it. If anyone has any grievance to complain
of, or any request to make, he can do it in private to the King.
When the King is in the country in the summer months, many of the
rooms can be seen by the public. They are, as one would expect, large
and beautifully decorated. To most people the Armoury and Royal Robe
Chamber are the most interesting, as there you can see so many relics
and robes which belonged to famous Kings and Queens of days gone by.
Here are the blood-stained shirt worn by Gustavus Adolphus when he
was killed at Lützen, and the uniform and hat worn by Charles XII.
when he was shot at Frederikshald.
During the Thirty Years’ War, a great many went from England and
Scotland to fight in the army of Gustavus Adolphus. You are reminded
of this when you look at the walls of the Riddarhus (House of Nobles),
which are covered with the coats of arms of the Swedish nobility.
Amongst them can be seen a very large number of English and Scotch
names. The nobles used to meet here as a chamber on the affairs of the
country. They no longer do so. There is still to be seen the Speaker’s
chair presented to Gustavus Vasa in 1527. It is made of ivory, and in
it several Bible scenes are inlaid with ebony.
We have seen that Sweden was at one time a great military power in
Europe. We notice this if we visit the Riddarholm Church. The interior
is adorned with 6,000 flags and trophies taken in war. This is the
burial-place of the Kings of Sweden.
Very many years ago, when Stockholm was built chiefly of wood, St.
Jacob’s Church was a kind of signal station. There used to be in its
tower a watchman, who would sing out the hours of night:
“The hour is ten:
God’s mighty hand
Preserve our town
From fire and brand:
The hour is ten.”
If he saw any sign of fire, instead of his rhyme he sounded a rattle
as a warning.
[Illustration: GUSTAVUS VASA’S ENTRY INTO STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER,
1532. _Carl Larsson._]
Things are now altering all over the country. Many old customs are
passing away. To remind the young Swede of the past, Dr. Hazelius
conceived the idea of a museum in which would be preserved old Swedish
costumes, furniture, and other things which speak of the past. This
has been arranged in a very large building. In connection with it
there is a large open-air museum called Skansen. It encloses about 40
acres. It is a Sweden in miniature.
Buildings have been brought from every part of Sweden. You can see
peasants, farms, and houses, summer houses of different centuries, and
a Lapp encampment, where real Lapps live during the summer. The
attendants are dressed in the old national costumes. On several days
of the week you can see the graceful national dances and games. There
are animals, wild and domestic, from all parts of Scandinavia, and
plants and flowers are well represented. It is a most interesting
place to visit, and gives a peep into the whole of Sweden.
Let us now visit the streets, and see something of the life of the
people. They live chiefly in flats, and the street-door is generally
shut. When the bell is rung, the porter, who is within, touches a
spring, which opens the door mechanically. There are lifts as well as
broad staircases to the different flats. The houses are heated in
winter by means of large porcelain stoves, in which wood is burned.
The wood is brought to the harbour in boats from the surrounding
districts, and some houses have a man whose daily rôle is to go to the
boat, buy the wood, cut it into pieces, and feed the stoves. Very
often he is a Dalecarlian, and wears his native costume.
There are many open-air markets. Let us visit the fish-market. Here
the fish is brought alive in tanks in the boats. We may see the owner
of the boat, as we pass along, lift up fish for our inspection. As a
rule, fish is sold alive.
The boys of this country are accustomed to see at railway-stations
automatic machines for the sale of chocolates and a few other small
things. In Sweden you find automatic restaurants. They require no
waiters. There is a large room with tables, and on each wall are
labels over different slots, such as “Tea,” “Coffee,” “Milk,” etc. You
put your coin in, and, putting your cup or tumbler under a tap, get
what you want. There are some restaurants that also supply a hot lunch
after the same manner. These are very popular, as they save time and
tips.
In the winter there are in the squares of Stockholm huge cisterns
containing hot milk, which is sold in the same automatic way.
The Swedes are very fond of music, and in their beautiful Opera-House
one can hear the finest concerts for a comparatively low price.
Altogether Stockholm is a most attractive city. The beauty of its
situation, combined with the culture and friendliness of its people,
are bound to awake our admiration.