A SUMMER HOLIDAY AT MARSTRAND
I must now give you an idea how a holiday is spent at the seaside in
Sweden. Early in the year the question is, Where shall we spend the
summer? Three whole months of liberty and sunshine--this is what every
boy and girl looks forward to in Sweden, as the public schools all
close on the last days of May, or first days of June, and do not
reopen till the first day of September.
This summer we decide to go to Marstrand, and I will try to give you
an idea how a day is spent there. On a fine morning in the first week
of June we board the pretty steamer _St. Erik_, and although we have
come early, we find it already crowded with families hurrying off to
the seaside, so great is the rush from town as soon as the schools are
closed. We have to sit wedged in between beds and perambulators, so
many and varied are the things it is necessary to take to a Swedish
watering-place.
After the steamer has threaded its course for about two hours between
the numerous rocks and islands, we suddenly get a glimpse of the tower
of Marstrand’s fortress, dominating the whole island, and overlooking
the stormy Kattegat, whose waves beat on its shores from all sides.
Then we steam up through a very narrow passage, cut in the rocks years
ago, to allow the gunboats of that day to retreat under the guns of
the fortress.
Many a time, as a child, I used to watch with anxiety the progress of
the steamer when in that narrow canal, as the boat almost touches the
cliffs on either side, and it needs great skill to pilot her through
safely.
Having passed through, we are in full view of Marstrand. What a
glamour rests over that sunny island to many a holiday-seeker!
But as your eyes gaze upon it, you look in vain for any handsome
buildings or hotels; what you see is a lot of nicely-built houses with
red tiled roofs, all clustered closely together at the foot of the
fortress, which is built on the highest hill of the island. A
prominent feature is the white church with its square tower. The town
was founded in 1220 by the Norwegian King Hakon Hakonson. During the
sixteenth century it rose into importance as one of the best herring
fisheries of the North, but in these days it depends almost entirely
on the support of its summer visitors. We have now arrived at
Marstrand quay, which is crowded with happy, chattering people,
everyone eager to welcome some friend; or it may be they have just
come down to watch the arrival of the steamer, this being one of the
excitements of the island.
[Illustration: A SWEDISH SHEPHERDESS. _Anders Zorn._]
How delicious and soft the air is, full of the briny smell of the sea!
Excitement runs high amongst the young people, as they think of all
the delights of a summer at Marstrand, which are chiefly summed up in
the three words, bathing, sailing, and fishing. We soon get settled
into our home for the summer, a large, airy villa, standing in a shady
garden, not far from the battery, and having a fine view of the sea.
Our first fishing expedition is planned to take place the day after
our arrival. We are wakened early in the morning, between five and six
o’clock. With eagerness we jump out of bed, and as we mean business
and not only pleasure, we don an old serge skirt, as we know we shall
get many a soaking of salt water from the spray of the waves as well
as from the dripping fish. After a hurried breakfast we rush down to
the quay, where we find our faithful old skipper Anders in his large,
comfortable sailing-boat, waiting for us.
We sail right out into the open sea, where we drop anchor, and now the
sport begins. The fishing-lines are unwound, each line often having
about six hooks. These we bait with mussels. When luck is good, one
has not long to wait; we were soon all busy pulling up and letting
down our lines again as fast as we could, often getting two whiting or
plaice at a time.
What fun it is to feel the tug and pull of the fish, but after a
couple of hours we are ready to return home, feeling almost giddy with
the strong air and the rocking of the boat; but we have enjoyed the
morning immensely, and come back full of joy and spirits.
Another pleasure at Marstrand is the sailing. Along the quay
are moored several large boats with their white sails hoisted,
bearing various Northern names, such as _Thor_, _Balder_, _Gudrun_,
_Ingeborg_, etc.
One hires these boats by the hour; the favourite sail is to the
well-known “Paternoster” ledges, a group of rocky islets distant four
miles from Marstrand, in beautiful open sea. These islands are much
dreaded by sailors, and on Hamnskär, the largest of them, there is a
lighthouse, and below it is the light-keeper’s house, a low stone
building, the only human dwelling-place on the island. There are also
two little towers; one holds the fog-bell, and the other the windmill
which winds the clock which gives the warning to the vessels that
pass near those fatal rocks.
Often these pleasure sailings are extended for a whole day; the boats
are large and comfortable, and the skippers are skilful, reliable men.
On the one half of Marstrand the town is built. It looks very quaint
and old with its narrow, cobbled streets. There are two parks, one
named Paradicet (the Paradise). This used to be the favourite
meeting-place for the visitors, but lately the park which surrounds
the Society House is the rendezvous, and near it are the public
bathing-houses.
The sea-bathing house is built in a circle, and covers a good deal of
water, the depth of the water being about 3 feet. From the enclosure
there are doors that open out into the open sea for the more able
swimmers. Each bather has a small room to undress in, and all these
rooms lead out on to a gallery that runs entirely round the basin of
water, into which steps descend at convenient intervals.
There is always a teacher of swimming to give lessons to those who do
not know how to swim, and there are not many boys and girls in Sweden
who do not learn this accomplishment very early.
The climate of Marstrand is very mild and balmy. There is scarcely any
difference in the temperature between night and day; consequently,
the temperature of the sea is very even, and sea-bathing is enjoyed
till late in September.
For the sight-seer the fortress “Carlsten,” of Marstrand, is an object
of interest. It is still in a perfectly preserved condition. In some
places the walls are blasted out of the cliffs; in others built of
granite. From its high ramparts one gets a fine view of all the
surrounding islands and sea.
Marstrand itself is all grey rock, with a very few trees. A favourite
walk is round the island. At one place you pass between high cliffs, a
very narrow passage called the Needle’s Eye. The extreme point of the
island is called Tå Udden--the Cape of the Toe. This is a favourite
resort, as here you gaze right out on the sea, and when it is stormy
you see the grand spectacle of the waves dashing against the low
rocks.