CHAPTER I.

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THE PRINCIPLES

OF

LEATHER MANUFACTURE

[Illustration: _Frontispiece._

PLATE I.

SECTION OF CALF-SKIN. (For key, see Fig. 9.)]

THE PRINCIPLES

OF

LEATHER MANUFACTURE

BY

H. R. PROCTER, F.I.C. F.C.S.

PROFESSOR OF LEATHER INDUSTRIES AT THE YORKSHIRE COLLEGE, LEEDS;

PAST PRESIDENT OF THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION

OF LEATHER TRADES CHEMISTS

[Illustration]

=London:=

E. & F. N. SPON, LIMITED, 125 STRAND

=New York:=

SPON & CHAMBERLAIN, 123 LIBERTY STREET

1903

=Dedicated to=

PROFESSOR F. L. KNAPP

GEHEIMEN HOFRATH, DR. PHIL. AND DR. ING.

THE PIONEER OF SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH

IN LEATHER MANUFACTURE

PREFACE.

The origin of the present work was an attempt to prepare a second

edition of the little Text-Book of Tanning which the Author published in

1885, and which has been long out of print. Though persevered in for

years, the work was never brought to completion, partly owing to the

constant pressure of other duties, but still more to the rapid advances

which have been made in our knowledge of the subject, and in the

scientific thought which has been devoted to it. For his share in the

initiation of this work, much credit is due to Wilhelm Eitner, Director

of the Imperial Royal Research Institute for Leather Industries in

Vienna, but the advance he began has been energetically carried forward

not only in Vienna, but in the Tanning Schools and Research Institutes

of Freiberg, Leeds, London, Liège, Copenhagen, Berlin and elsewhere, and

to a less extent in private laboratories.

Under the pressure of this rapid growth, as it was impossible to

complete the work as a whole, the Author published an instalment dealing

with the purely chemical side of the subject in 1898, under the title of

the ‘Leather Industries Laboratory Book’; which has been translated into

German, French and Italian, and of which the English edition is rapidly

approaching exhaustion.

The present work, which should by right have preceded the Laboratory

Book (and which frequently refers to it as “L.I.L.B.”), attempts to deal

with the general scientific principles of the industry, without

describing in detail its practical methods (though incidentally many

practical points are discussed). To complete the subject, a third volume

ought to be written, giving working details of the various methods of

manufacture; but apart from the difficulty of the subject, and the

weariness of “making many books,” the methods of trade are so

fluctuating, and dependent on temporary conditions that they have not

the same permanent value as the record of scientific advance.

As the present volume is intended to appeal both to the chemist and to

the practical tanner, it must to a certain extent fail in both, since

many matters are included which are already familiar to the former, and

it is to be feared, some, which may prove difficult to the latter. For

these and other imperfections the Author claims the indulgence of his

Readers.

The Author must here acknowledge his indebtedness to Dr. TOM GUTHRIE and

to Mr. A. B. SEARLE for assistance in writing several of the chapters;

to Dr. A. TURNBULL and Mr. F. A. BLOCKEY for much help in reading proofs

and preparing the MS. for the press; and to the many gentlemen who have

furnished or allowed him to use their blocks and drawings in

illustration.

THE YORKSHIRE COLLEGE,

LEEDS.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

_INTRODUCTORY AND HISTORICAL._

Primitive methods of leather manufacture -- Use of leather by the

ancients -- Progress of leather manufacture in England -- Methods of

production of leather -- Vegetable tannages -- Combination tannages --

Use of aluminium, iron and chromium -- Oil- and fat-leathers --

Difficulties of scientific treatment PAGE 1

The Principles of Leather Manufacture · 第 1 / 36 章