Our self-importance as Arctic heroes of the first water received a sad

downfall when we were first asked by a kind friend, what the deuce we

came home for? We had a good many _becauses_ ready, but he overturned

them altogether; so we had resort to the usual resource of men in such

a position: we said, "There was a barrier of ice across Wellington

Channel in 1850." Our friend said, "I deny it was a permanent one, for

the Americans drifted through it!" "Indeed!" we exclaimed, "at any rate

there was one there in 1851." "Yes, granted, on the 12th of August; but

you know there was a month of open season left: and, like an honest

man, say how long it would take for that barrier, fifteen or twenty

miles wide, to disperse." "As many hours!" was our reply: "and we have

forsworn in future barriers of ice as well as barriers of land."

What the deuce we came home for? and why we deserted Franklin? were

pleasant questions; and at first we felt inclined to be angry. Those,

however, who asked them had cause and reason for doing so. We were in

the dark as to much that had been arrived at in England. We knew but of

our own limited personal experience, and had had neither time nor

opportunity to compare notes with others. The public at home sat down

with the accumulated evidence of two British expeditions and an

American one. They passed a verdict that Franklin had gone up

Wellington Channel, and that, having gone up there, in obedience to his

country's orders, it was the duty of that country to send after him,

save him, or solve his fate. I for one knew I had done my duty in the

sphere allotted to me, although feeling at first that the public

verdict reflected somewhat upon me as well as others. But "Vox populi,

vox Dei." I bowed tacitly to its decision, until attempts were made to

damp the hopes of the more sanguine,--in fact, to save our credit at

the expense of Franklin's existence. It was time then to reconsider in

all its points the subject of farther search, to compare my own recent

impression of things with facts that were now before the world, and

then to judge for myself whether any one had a right to declaim against

farther efforts to save Franklin's expedition.

Need I say I found none. On comparing the information, the phenomena

observed in our own squadron with those of Captain Penny's, and the

Americans under Lieutenant De Haven, I saw more and more clearly that a

northern sea, an open water, must have been close to us in 1850 and

1851, when we were about Wellington Channel; that that sea was _not_

blocked with ice in 1850, as we had ignorantly supposed; and that as

assuredly as it was proved that Sir John Franklin had not gone to Cape

Walker, nor disobeyed his orders by going to Melville Island, so

certain did it now become that up Wellington Channel he had steered to

that open sea, which, whether limited or encircling the Pole, it was

his object to enter. It was water and an open sea that Franklin wanted

to achieve the North-west Passage; and there it was before him. Can any

one suppose him, accuse him, capable of hesitating to enter it?

Those who will not admit this, have recourse to two infallible Arctic

solutions for the dilemma in which they are placed; it must be either

an impenetrable barrier of ice in Wellington Channel, or the ships must

have been beset in the pack, and have perished, without God's

providence helping them, as it has helped all others similarly placed,

without leaving a single survivor or a vestige of any description. No

such wholesale calamity is on record.

[Headnote: _CHANCES OF FUTURE SUCCESS._]

Let us inquire into this barrier of ice in Wellington Channel. Twice

had Parry seen the channel, in 1819 and 1820; he saw no barrier then.

We reached it in the fall of 1850, after a very backward and severe

summer, with winter fast closing in upon us. We saw long flights of

birds retreating from their summer breeding-places somewhere beyond the

broad fields of ice that lay athwart its channel. We wondered at the

numerous shoals of white whale passing, from some unknown northern

region, southward to more genial climes. We talked of fixed ice, yet in

one day twelve miles of it came away, and nearly beset us amongst its

fragments. We heard Captain Penny's report that there was water to be

seen north of the remaining belt, of about ten miles in width. We were

like deaf adders; we were obstinate, and went into winter quarters

under Griffith's Island, believing that nothing more could be done,

because a barrier of fixed ice extended across Wellington Channel! We

were miserably mistaken.

The expedition under Lieutenant De Haven was then drifting slowly over

the place where we, in our ignorance, had placed fixed ice in our

charts; and to them likewise the wisdom of an all-merciful Providence

revealed the fact of a northern sea of open water, that they might be

additional witnesses in the hour of need. We cannot do better than read

the plain unvarnished tale of the gallant American--a tale of calm

heroism under no ordinary trials, which stamps the document as the

truthful narration of a gentleman and a sailor. He says, after

describing the being beset by young ice in the mouth of Wellington

Channel, and drifting northward, owing to southerly winds,--

"On the 18th September we were above Cape Bowden.... To account for

this drift, the fixed ice of Wellington Channel, which we had observed

in passing to the _westward_, must have been broken up, and driven to

the southward by the heavy gale the 12th (September).

"We continued to drift slowly to the N.N.W. until the 22d, when our

progress appeared to be arrested by a small low island, which was

discovered about seven miles distant.

* * * * *

"_Between Cornwallis Island and some distant high land visible in the

north, appeared a wide channel, leading to the westward._ A dark,

misty-looking cloud which hung over it (technically termed frost-smoke)

was indicative of much open water in that direction.

"Nor was the open water the only indication that presented itself in

confirmation of theoretical conjecture as to a milder climate in that

direction. As we entered Wellington Channel the signs of animal life

became more abundant."

So much, then, for the barrier of ice in Wellington Channel in 1850.

Let us now speak of what was there in 1851. On the 11th of August about

as much fixed floe was remaining in Wellington Channel as had been

found by us on the previous year, _a month later in the season_. On

that occasion, late as it was, we have the evidence of Lieutenant De

Haven to prove the channel opened: why should we doubt it doing so in

1851? An open sea existed on both sides of a belt of ice, rotten, full

of holes, unfit to travel over (as Penny's officers reported it), full

thirty days before the winter set in; is there an Arctic navigator

hardy enough to say he believes that that belt would have been found

there on the next spring-tide after our squadron was liberated from

Griffith's Island? Then, I repeat, if it is allowed that Wellington

Channel was open in 1819, 1820, 1850, and 1851, it is natural to infer

that it was open when Franklin wished to pass through it in 1846, and

that, under such circumstances, he would, in obedience to his orders,

have gone by it to the N.W.

The day has not long passed by when it was tried to be proved, on

_undoubted testimony_, that Barrow's Strait was barred with the

accumulated ice of years,--and this in the face of an autumnal drift of

a naval squadron for 350 miles in the pack of Lancaster. What say these

barrier-builders to the winter drift of the American schooners under

Lieutenant De Haven? Does his marvellous cruise teach us nothing?

Between the 1st of November, 1850, and the 6th of June, 1851, his

squadron was swept in one vast field of ice from the upper part of

Wellington Channel to the southward of Cape Walsingham, in Davis's

Straits, through a tortuous route of full 1000 miles! Yes, reader, the

"Rescue" and "Advance" were beset in young bay-ice in and about

Wellington Channel; but during the winter, amidst the darkness, amidst

fierce gales, when the God of storms alone could and did shield those

brave barks, they and _the ice_ in _which they had been beset_, moved,

with few pauses, steadily and slowly to the Atlantic Ocean, and reached

it by the summer of the following year.

It is true, our expedition was prevented, by ice, from advancing to the

west of Griffith's Island. But let it not be supposed that we came, in

that direction, upon any _fixed_ bar of ice or interminable floe-edge:

far otherwise; for when, as I have elsewhere said, Lieutenant Aldrich

was sent, a few days after our arrival at winter quarters, to travel on

foot to Lowther Island, he found the task a hopeless one, as _water_,

bay-ice, and a broken pack, lay between Somerville Island and it. We,

likewise, in our spring journeys, found ice, smooth as glass, formed,

evidently during the past winter, surrounding Lowther Island. It was

traced by Lieutenant M'Clintock, leading, in exactly the form of the

lead of water found in 1819 and 1820 by Sir E. Parry, in his voyage to

Winter Island; and there can be little doubt, that, beyond the

floe-pieces which choked the channel between Griffith's Island and Cape

Bunny, we should, in 1850, have found water leading us to Winter

Harbour, and up the noble channel north of Byam Martin Island.

Enough of icy barriers. I do not believe in Nature having placed such

fixtures on the "vasty deep;" but I am ready to allow that there are

places in which accumulations of ice naturally exist, and where the ice

moves away less rapidly than in other parts. By looking at the chart,

and taking into consideration the geographical conformation of such

spots, the cause will at once appear.

In a line across the head of Davis's Straits, the pack hangs, because

it is there met, in its downward course, by the whole weight of the

Atlantic Sea, and strong southerly gales blowing up that funnel-shaped

strait. About Leopold Island the pack hangs, for it is acted upon by

the cross-tides of Wellington Channel and Regent's Inlet running

athwart those of Barrow's Strait, and forming a sort of eddy, or still

water. This occurs again in the _elbow_ of Wellington Channel, and

between Griffith's Island and Cape Bunny, where a narrowing strait, and

the cross-tide of the channel towards the American coast, tie up the

broad floes formed in the great water-space west of that point; and

lastly, a similar choke takes place, apparently off the S.W. extreme of

Melville Island.

Failing in barriers, these Job's comforters dismiss the subject by

swallowing up the "Erebus" and "Terror," hull, masts, sails, and crew,

in some especially infernal tempest or convulsion executed for the

occasion: they--the Job's comforters--have no similar case to adduce in

proof of such a catastrophe. Every body who goes to the frozen regions

tells of the hairbreadth escapes and imminent dangers attendant on

Arctic navigation. I am free to acknowledge, I have "piled the agony"

to make my work sell. Behold the "Pioneer" in a nip in Melville Bay;

the "Resolute" thumping the pack off Griffith's Island; the

"Assistance" holding on to a floe-edge with a moving one threatening to

sink her; and the "Intrepid" on the slope of an iceberg, high and dry:

yet all are safe and sound in Woolwich dockyard: the brigs, "Rescue"

and "Advance," beset for 267 days, drifting during a Polar winter 1150

miles, enduring all possible hardship and risk, yet both vessels and

men are safe and sound. Captain Penny's two vessels, the "Lady

Franklin" and "Sophia," if their figure-heads could speak, would "a

tale unfold." Not the most extraordinary part of their adventures was,

being caught in a gale in a bay on the coast of Greenland, and being

forced by a moving iceberg through a field of ice full three feet

thick, the vessels rearing and plunging through it; yet they are all

safe and sound. The "North Star," the "Enterprise," and "Investigator,"

and farther back, the "Terror," farther still, the "Dorothea" and

"Trent," have, with many more we could enumerate, seen no ordinary

Arctic dangers; but, thanks to a merciful Providence, unattended with

loss of life. Why, therefore, in the name of charity, consign those who

are dear to us, as relatives, friends, or countrymen, to sudden death

in the dark waters of Lancaster Sound or Baffin's Bay. No one who knew

the men of that gallant squadron would so libel the leader, or his

officers, as to suppose them to have turned back when at the threshold

of their labours: if he does so, he does them foul injustice. And

against such I appeal, in the name of that humanity which was never

invoked in vain in a Christian land.

Give the lost ones the benefit of the doubt, if there is one on your

minds. Let not selfish indifference to your fellow-creatures' fate

induce you to dismiss the question by adopting any of the horrible

opinions to which unfeeling men have given utterance. True it is, they

are in sad peril; true it is, they have suffered long and much; true it

is, that many may have fallen by the way: but the remnant, however

small, of that heroic band, be assured, by one who knew many of them

intimately and dearly, will despair not, but, trusting in their God,

their Queen, and country, they will cling to hope with life's latest

breath.

They have done their duty: let us not be wanting in ours. The rescue of

Franklin's squadron, or the solution of their fate, entails no

extraordinary risk of life upon the part of those employed in the

search. Insurances to any amount--and I speak from a knowledge of the

fact--may be effected in the various insurance offices in London with a

lighter premium than is demanded for the Bights of Benin or Bengal.

This is a pretty good test, and a sound practical one, too, of the

much-talked-of dangers of Polar navigation. Ships are often lost; but

the very floe which by its pressure sinks the vessel saves the crew.

In short, we have every thing to stimulate Arctic exploration. No loss

of life; (for Franklin it will be time enough to mourn when we know he

is not of the living,) the wonderful proofs lately acquired of a Polar

sea; the undoubted existence of animal life in regions which were

previously supposed to be incapable of supporting animal life; the

result of the deeply philosophical inquiries of the talented

geographer, Mr. Peterman, which seem to establish the fact of an open

Polar sea during the severest season of the year; and lastly, the

existence of Esquimaux in a high northern latitude in Baffin's Bay, who

appear to be so isolated, and so unconnected with their brethren of

South Greenland, as to justify us in connecting them rather with the

numerous ruined habitations found westward as far as Melville Island,

and lead the mind to speculate upon some more northern region,--some

_terra incognita_, yet to be visited by us,--encourages us, aye, urges

us not to halt in our exploration. Humanity and science are united in

the cause: where one falters, let a love for the other encourage us to

persevere.

Franklin and his matchless followers need no eulogy from me; the

sufferings they must have undergone, the mystery that hangs over them,

are on every tongue in every civilized land.

The blooming child lisps Franklin's name, as with glistening eye and

greedy ear it hears of the wonders of the North, and the brave deeds

there done. Youth's bosom glows with generous emotion to emulate the

fame of him who has gone where none as yet have followed. And who

amongst us does not feel his heart throb faster in recalling to

recollection the calm heroism of the veteran leader, who, when about to

enter the unknown regions of which Wellington Channel is the portal,

addressed his crews in those solemn and emphatic words of Holy

Writ,--his motto, doubtless,--"Choose ye this day whom you will serve;"

and found in that blissful choice his strength and his endurance.

To rescue even one life were surely well worthy our best endeavours;

but if it so please an all-merciful Providence that aid should reach

Franklin's ships too late to save even that one, yet would we have

fulfilled a high and imperative duty: and would it be no holy

satisfaction to trace the last resting-place of those gallant spirits?

to recover the records, there assuredly to be found, of their manly

struggle, under hardships and difficulties, in achieving that

North-west Passage, in the execution of which they had laid down their

lives? and to bring back to their surviving relatives and friends those

last kind messages of love, which show that sincere affection and stern

sense of duty sprang from one source in their gallant and generous

hearts?

Yes, of course it would. Then, and not till then--taking this, the

gloomiest view of the subject--shall we have done our duty towards the

captains, officers, and crews of Her Majesty's ships "Erebus" and

"Terror;" and then, and not until then, of their honoured leader we may

safely say:--

"His soul to Him who gave it rose;

God led its long repose,

Its glorious rest!

And though the warrior's sun has set,

Its light shall linger round us yet,

Bright, radiant, blest!"

THE END.

Stray Leaves from an Arctic Journal Or, Eighteen Months in the Polar Regions, in Search of Sir John Franklin's Expedition, in the Years 1850-51 · 第 15 / 15 段