CHAPTER IV

ON THE STREET

THE TRUE ETIQUETTE

Etiquette, in its truest sense, is an exponent of _self_, rather than a

manifestation towards _others_. We do what is right and courteous

because no other behavior possibly could be consistent with our claim to

be well-bred.

As Shakespeare has said,

"To thine own self be true;

And it must follow as the night the day,

Thou canst not then be false to any man."

Instinctively, and with no thought of impressing others, the well-bred

man does and says what is correct. And his manners are as polished and

cultivated in his home, at business and in public, as they are at the

most formal social functions.

It is not enough to observe the conventions of society when you are in

the elaborate ballroom or at a fashionable dinner. You must be always,

at all times, in all places, as courteous and well-mannered as you would

be in the most impressive surroundings. The world judges you by your

manners in the street car and on the avenue just as severely as it does

in private homes and at social functions.

Do what is correct because you are well-bred, and not because some

important person is watching you. Then you will truly be following the

rules of courtesy.

POISE IN PUBLIC

"Mightiest powers by deepest calms are fed" says the proverb. And Dr.

Crane, himself a mighty power, supplements the saying by one of his

own--"The silent sun is mightier than the whirlwind."

It is the quiet well-mannered person who inspires respect and liking.

The loud laugh bespeaks the vacant mind and noisy, boisterous conduct

has a tendency to irritate and make nervous the people who have to come

into contact with it. In public and elsewhere you are accredited with as

much refinement and gentility as your manners display--no more.

It is a mark of extreme good breeding to be able to meet all emergencies

calmly and without uncontrolled anger or excitement. In training in the

etiquette of calm behavior, there can be no better test than that of

controlling the temper. Do not confuse this serenity of manner with

cowardice; for the calm dignity that forbids one to be ill-mannered also

forbids one to endure insolence. By learning to control the temper, one

develops that kind of poise which is undeniably one of the greatest

assets in the social and business worlds.

THE CHARM OF COURTESY

Real culture has a tendency to avoid excessive individuality. Instead,

it requires that all people be treated with equal courtesy, whether they

are strangers in the street of friends in the drawing-room. And it is

this very charm of courtesy that has made etiquette so important a

factor in civilization.

"All doors open to courtesy," the proverbs tell us. The "general public"

so sadly abused in book and speech, is quick to recognize courtesy and

eager to respond to it. Before a pleasant face and a courteous manner,

all obstacles vanish, and we find ourselves progressing easily through

the world, making friends as we go.

Some of us vainly pride ourselves upon being frank and candid in our

association with others. This is a serious blunder which many men and

women make. It is not commendable to be frank, when courtesy is

sacrificed. Be truthful and just, but do not be unkind. And it certainly

is unkind to repeat bits of gossip or scandal, unless there is a special

reason why it should be done. How much better it is to gain the

reputation of being considerate than the reputation of being brutally

frank!

There are countless trifling tests of good manners that distinguish the

well-bred. And these same tests prove that a careful attention to the

rights and comforts of others, is one of the most decided marks of good

breeding. For instance, at the postoffice one can immediately discern

the well-bred man. He stands quietly in line until there is room for him

at the window. He does not crowd. He does not attempt to push ahead of

others to reach the window before his turn. He does not interfere with

other people's business; he would be horrified at the thought of

deliberately loitering near a window to overhear the private affairs of

some other man. He is quiet, unobtrusive and considerate, moving quickly

away from the window for the next person's convenience. In manner and

speech, he is essentially _courteous_.

It is impossible to be a lady or gentleman without _gentle_ manners. And

it is impossible to have gentle manners without being _courteous_. The

word "courtesy" to-day should carry the same meaning of beauty and

charm that the word "chivalry" did in the eighteenth and nineteenth

centuries.

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

There was a time, not so long ago, when a most marked reserve was

required between men and women in public. But to-day, with the advent of

women into almost every branch of business, art and profession, there is

a tendency to loosen this social barrier and create a more friendly

relationship between men and women. The stiff formalities of a decade

ago have given way to a much more pleasing social harmony and

understanding.

"Etiquette requires that the association of men and women in refined

circles shall be frank without freedom, friendly without familiarity"

declares a recent writer on good manners. There is no longer need for

the strained reserve formerly felt when women were in the company of men

in public. If the correct rules of etiquette are observed, and courtesy

and poise follow in their wake, the man and woman in public may be as

entirely at ease and unrestrained as they would be in a drawing-room or

at an informal dinner.

American gentlemen have the reputation of being more chivalrous than the

gentlemen of any other country. American ladies are acclaimed the most

charming and intelligent in the world. Thus, when the speaker on the

platform addresses the public audience as "Ladies and Gentlemen" the

expression should mean something more than merely a careless formality.

WHEN TO BOW IN PUBLIC

To bow or not to bow is often a puzzling question! Some authorities on

etiquette claim that "it is correct to bow first to a person of higher

social position." Others assert that social position has nothing to do

with it, and that it is age alone that determines who shall bow first.

The question devolves upon several very important rules that should be

rigidly observed.

The first, and invariable rule, is that the woman always bows first when

meeting men acquaintances. Her bow assumes the proportions of a simple

greeting; the head is slightly inclined, she looks directly at the man

recognized, and smiles cordially. To the woman, therefore, is given the

privilege of recognizing or refusing to recognize a man acquaintance.

However, the really well-bred woman will never ignore in public a

person, man or woman, with whom she has had even a slight

acquaintance--unless she has a very good reason to do so.

Two young women meeting in public greet each other with a certain degree

of spontaneity which consequently eliminates any question regarding the

first bow. But when one of the women is married and the other unmarried,

the first bow invariably comes from the former. Younger people, of the

same sex, always wait for the first sign of recognition from the older

person.

Young women who are dance partners or partners at the dinner table with

men who are not personal friends, incur the social obligation of bowing

courteously when chance meetings are made in public, even though there

is no desire to continue social acquaintanceship. Also, when a man or

woman has been invited to an entertainment at a house through the good

offices of a friend of the hostess, he or she must wait to receive first

recognition from that hostess when meeting in public.

Gentlemen meeting each other in public observe the same rule as that

outlined for two women,--the younger waits for first recognition from

the elder. If both are of the same age, the question of first bow is

unimportant. People meeting often during the day need not bow

elaborately each time; a simple smile or glance of recognition is

sufficient.

It is extremely rude and unkind to "cut" an acquaintance publicly by

staring coldly in response to a courteous bow and smile. There are so

many more dignified methods of terminating an undesirable

acquaintanceship. It is necessary only to keep one's eyes averted,

persistently but not obviously if one wishes to avoid greeting an

undesirable acquaintance. Or if one wishes one may bow with extreme

formality, but a bow and smile in public should always receive some kind

of acknowledgement, no matter how severely formal.

WALKING IN PUBLIC

First in importance to remember when walking in public is poise and

balance of bearing. The expression "the _debutante's_ slouch" is a

direct result of the lazy manner of walking recently adopted by a number

of young women. Aside from its bad effect upon health, this manner of

walking is both ungraceful and unattractive. Men and women both should

remember that an erect, well-poised bearing is more impressive than the

most elaborate costume.

A lady does not take a gentleman's arm when walking with him in the

daytime unless she is elderly or infirm. It is only after dark that she

properly accepts the support of her escort. In this case, she merely

rests the palm of her hand lightly within the curve of his elbow. It is

extremely bad form, as well as ungraceful, for her to link her arm

through his. The gentleman always walks nearest the curb unless on a

special occasion when the street is very crowded and he wishes to

protect her from the jostling crowds. He may offer his arm to the lady

in crossing dangerous streets or to guide her through congested traffic.

When walking with two ladies, a gentleman's proper position is not

between them; if it is in the evening, he offers his arm to the elder

lady and the other friend walks by her side. There seems to be a

mistaken belief that a gentleman walking with two ladies must "sandwich"

himself between them, but correct social usage teaches that this is

entirely wrong. The ladies always walk side by side.

On no occasion may a gentleman take a woman's arm. Good society regards

this as a disrespectful freedom. Thus, whenever he feels that she needs

his protection, a gentleman should offer a lady his arm, but never

attempt to thrust his hand through her arm. It is not even correct for

him to grasp her by the elbow (as so many young men insist upon doing!)

when crossing a street.

STOPPING FOR A CHAT

Very often we meet, in the course of our daily strolls, old friends or

acquaintances with whom we are eager to have a little chat. This is

entirely permissible, if certain laws of good conduct are observed. One

should never stop on the street to talk, but should walk on slowly with

the person with whom one wishes to converse.

Remember that primarily all conduct in public should be characterized by

reserve. While it is entirely allowable to call a jolly "Hello!" to a

friend one meets in a country lane, even though one still is fifty rods

away, it would be extremely bad form on Broadway or Fifth Avenue--or

Main Street in any town. A cordial but quiet greeting shows good

breeding; a greeting so conspicuous that it attracts attention is never

in good form.

Conversation should be carried on in quiet and subdued tones. Above all,

be natural in your speech. Do not attempt to be flowery in your

language, or "different" merely because there are strangers around to

hear--and admire. And if you do stop to converse with your old friend,

be sure that you speak sensibly of things of mutual interest; there is

no excuse to stop merely for the sake of exchanging inanities.

Whispering is as rude in public as it is in the ballroom or at the

dinner table. Confidential business should not be discussed on the

street or in the department store; the proper place for such private

affairs is in the office or parlor.

If addressed by a stranger seeking information regarding a certain

street or number, show a cheerful and kindly interest. It is perplexing

and often embarrassing to be in an unfamiliar town or country, and

whatever information you give should be in an interested and courteous

manner.

Someone once said, "If you must do a thing, do it with all your heart.

To do it half-heartedly is to rob it of all its charm." Let this be your

motto in regard to the courtesy extended strangers who seek your aid.

WHEN ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

Gibbon said, "Accident is commonly the parent of disorder." But where

there are only people of culture and fine breeding, an accident is

devoid of all haste, hysteria or other indications of disorder of any

kind. It is the final test of correct manners, this being able to

conduct oneself with calmness and dignity even in moments of most

distracting circumstances. And besides its cultural aspects, calmness in

time of danger or accident is often the means of saving lives.

The rules of good breeding are nothing more than the rules of good sense

and these are never put to a more severe test than when an accident

occurs. The person who can keep his head during a fire will be much more

likely to get out of the building than one who loses all control of

himself and becomes hysterical. Presence of mind when someone faints or

is hurt or is in danger often prevents a serious or fatal mishap and

always eliminates a large part of the disorder incidental to such

occasions.

When an automobile or railroad disaster occurs, it is the calm person

who is most helpful. And surely helpfulness is one of the basic terms of

good conduct everywhere.

ACCEPTING COURTESIES FROM STRANGERS

Ella Wheeler Wilcox, writing about etiquette, said "Etiquette is another

name for kind thought. The man who says 'I know nothing about etiquette'

does not realize that he is saying 'I know nothing about courtesy to my

fellow beings.'" One of the reasons why America has truly been the land

of golden promise to so many strangers from other shores, is that there

are always so many men and women eager to help, eager to show those

little courtesies that warm the heart and rekindle the dying spirit.

Etiquette and courtesy are synonymous.

But it is not alone with the giving of courtesies that we are

interested. It is important that we know the correct way to accept

them. And it is particularly important that we know the correct way to

accept courtesies extended to us in public. There can be nothing more

discouraging to the lover of social etiquette than to see a man give up

his seat in the car to a woman who accepts it without a word of thanks

or a smile.

The question has often been asked whether or not it is correct for a

woman to accept the offer of shelter of an umbrella offered her by a

gentleman who is a perfect stranger. To settle this definitely, we say

that it is absolutely bad form for a woman to accept this courtesy no

matter how hard it is raining and how important the need of saving her

clothes may be. She may, however, accept the courtesy if it is offered

by a gentleman to whom she has been introduced at a dinner, dance,

theater party, or other social function.

If a woman drops her bag or gloves and they are retrieved by a passing

man, it is necessary only to smile and say "Thank you." No further

conversation is permissible. But if a man saves her from some grave

danger, such as being thrown down by a horse, or run over by a car, it

is not only necessary for her to thank him but the woman should ask,

"May I have the pleasure of knowing to whom I am indebted?" To offer

further expression of her obligation the woman would later send some

male member of her family, a brother or husband, to the home of the man

who has been of service to her. She should never offer money in

appreciation of the service, unless it is evident that he is a working

man; and even then she should use tact.

Such courtesies as assisting to pick up bundles that have dropped to the

ground, opening a door that has stuck or giving desired information,

require only the conventional "Thank you." No courtesy, however slight,

should be accepted without evidence of gratification, even though it be

but a slight smile.

RAISING THE HAT

When bowing to a woman or in acknowledgment of a greeting, when walking

with a woman and bowing to another man of his acquaintance, a gentleman

raises his hat. Similarly, when bowing to a man who is accompanied by a

woman, the courtesy is observed and also when a man is walking with

another man who lifts his hat in greetings to a friend, whether or not

that friend is known to him personally. The hat is also raised whenever

a gentleman offers a civility to a lady, whether she be friend or

stranger.

Elderly men, superiors in office, clergymen and men of distinction are

entitled to the courtesy of lifting the hat. "Hat in hand goes through

the land" say the Germans. And "Cap in hand never did any harm" is the

gem we find among the Italian proverbs. When in doubt, raise your hat.

Surely it is better to be too polite (if such a thing were possible)

than to be rudely discourteous to someone.

The question of whether or not the hat should be removed in the elevator

is perplexing. Some contend that the elevator is the same as a small

room in a private home, and therefore that the hat should be removed.

Others just as positively declare that the elevator is the same as the

street, and that it is unnecessary to raise the hat. The question of

drafts and colds in the head have entered into the discussion--but

ultimately all writers of etiquette reach the same conclusion: as the

elevator is so small and boasts a ceiling, it may be considered in the

same class as a room, and the polite man will keep his head

uncovered--especially while there are women in it. The man who is very

susceptible to colds may lift his hat upon entering the car and replace

it immediately. But it is not courteous to retain the hat entirely.

HOW TO RAISE THE HAT

It is not enough to know when to raise the hat, one must also know the

accepted manner of doing it. Profound and elaborate bows are

old-fashioned and un-American. While lifting the hat one should incline

the head slightly and smile. But it must be remembered that the

unmannerly habit of touching the hat, instead of lifting it is an

indication of sheer laziness and a lack of gallantry.

"A hat raised half-heartedly is a courtesy without charm" is a proverb

well worth remembering. Why raise your hat at all, if you do it only as

an annoying duty that must be gotten over as quickly as possible? If you

want to be courteous and polite show by your manner that you _are_

polite. A graceful lifting of the hat is entirely incompatible with an

unsmiling face. But both together--a sincere smile and a graceful

lifting of the hat--are most pleasing to the person for whom the

greeting is intended.

Many gentlemen, while speaking to ladies in the street, stand with their

heads uncovered. While it is a polite custom, it is dangerous to the

health and therefore should not be indulged in except in warm weather.

The most usual method is to lift the hat upon meeting, slowly replace it

during the conversation or while walking beside the lady, and lift it

again when taking leave of her.

IN THE STREET CAR

"The world is on wheels!" declares a modern writer. "Everyone is going

somewhere, and all the world is moving!" And Dr. Eliot of Harvard, in a

recent newspaper article, deplores the fact that the "younger

generation" is losing in courtesy and good manners that which it is

gaining in this rapid onward rush of the world's affairs.

"There is a general coarsening of manners" declares the president

emeritus of Harvard University. "Young women expect to encounter

rudeness from young men and they do not resent it" and when one watches

the rough-and-tumble manners of people in subways and street cars every

day one is inclined to agree with him.

The custom of relinquishing one's seat, for instance, is not as marked

as it was a decade ago. Perhaps the new suffrage amendments may have

something to do with it. Perhaps the war and woman's changed status is

the reason. Or it may just be a "coarsening of manners." But whatever it

is, we do not find our young men of to-day as eager to relinquish their

seats in the car as they were several years ago.

Women should never indicate by word or glance that they wish a man to

give up his seat. But the woman who is ill, or who is extremely tired

should feel no hesitancy in making the request if her need is really

great. When the seat is given, the owner should be thanked for his

kindness. This holds true whether the courtesy has been requested or

whether it has been spontaneous.

Boisterous action in the street car is inexcusable--as it is anywhere

else. The girl of mirthful disposition who laughs loudly may not be

doing it to attract attention to herself but merely to give vent to her

gay spirits, but it is most unattractive. "All noise is waste"--but it

is more than waste in public where it reflects ill-breeding upon the

person who is the perpetrator.

ENTERING THE CAR

In ascending a car on an omnibus, a man assists the woman he is

escorting by a slight touch at the elbow. He enters after her, finding

her a seat and taking his place next to her. If there is only one empty

place in the car, he stands directly in front of her, or as near as

possible. If a man relinquishes his seat to the woman, the escort must

lift his hat and offer a word of thanks for the kindness. A smile from

the woman is sufficient. In leaving the car the order is reversed; the

gentleman leaves first and assists the woman in alighting.

A man pays all fares and fees for the woman he is escorting. But when a

man meets a woman in the street by chance and they both enter a car

together, he is not under obligation to pay her fare. Common sense has

made a rule of its own in this matter, and some men insist upon paying

the fare of women they meet even inside the car. But etiquette tells us

that only an escort is under obligation to pay the fare of a woman.

IN THE TAXICAB

Here again the woman enters first, assisted by her escort. There is no

rule as to which side she should take in the car; she enters first and

takes the furthest seat, whether it be to the right or left. In

alighting the man again leads the way, assisting the woman to reach the

ground safely.

A word of caution will not be amiss here. No woman or girl should ride

in a taxicab with a man who is not her escort, unless she has a very

good reason for doing so. It is not conventional, and in most cases it

is not prudent. The woman with a fine regard for all the little niceties

of good conduct, who wishes to observe the rules of etiquette in their

truest sense, does not ride in a taxicab with a man, and allow him to

pay the bill, unless he is acting as her escort. And ordinarily, a

gentleman of polished manners does not ask a lady to ride with him

unless he is taking her to a social function such as a dance, formal

dinner or theater party.

If the taxicab has double seats, the man should take his place with his

back facing the driver, unless he is an old friend of many years'

standing. A new acquaintance should not take the liberty of sharing a

seat in the taxicab with a young woman unless she has particularly asked

him to do so.

SOME SOCIAL ERRORS

Reserve should not be confused with haughtiness. The first is a

necessary social attribute; the second is a regrettable social evil that

should be carefully avoided.

To be haughty, proud, superior, is to indicate that you hold those

beneath you in contempt. When etiquette is based on courtesy and a

consideration for the rights and comforts of a fellow-man, one readily

sees why this is a mistake. A haughty person is a conceited person. A

haughty person is an unkind person. And therefore, a haughty person is

an uncultured person.

Reserve, on the other hand, is a calm dignity that comes with the

knowledge that one does and says only what is entirely correct. It is

that certain well-poised sureness of oneself entirely devoid of all

semblance of pride,--yet with sufficient self-respect to attract

instinctively the respect of others. Reserve is that which is developed

only after close application to, and experience in, the laws of good

conduct. Haughtiness is merely a sham drapery used to cover the defects

of uncultured manners.

The other extreme of haughtiness is self-consciousness. Both faults are

the result of too much self-thought. To overcome self-consciousness,

which makes you awkward, easily embarrassed, and ill at ease--think less

of yourself! Think of the books you have read, of the people you have

met, of the new scenes you have observed. Take a more keen interest in

people. Speak to them. Don't be afraid of them. But most important of

all, forget yourself. And before you realize it, you will have developed

sufficient poise and _unself-consciousness_ to be confident to appear in

the most elaborate drawing-room, among the most brilliant and highly

cultured people, without feeling the least bit ill at ease.

"Our personal appearance is our show window where we insert what we have

for sale, and we are judged by what we put there." If you remember to

observe this bit of philosophy of Orison S. Marden's--not only in dress,

but in speech and manners and bearing--you will invariably do and say

and wear what is correct in public.

Book of Etiquette, Volume II · 第 4 / 9 章