My visit to the chief medicine man south of Massett was accidental.
While making a trip of several days alone with my canoe, I sought
shelter from a severe storm on a little islet in Skidegate Inlet,
where I passed a sleepless night in the rain and wind. It was only a
short distance to the Indian village of Gold Harbor, where, the
following day, I landed and spread out my blankets to dry on the
beach. Among the Indians squatting in front of their houses, I noticed
one whose hair was tied up in a knot on the back of his head, the size
of a large hornets' nest, of which it reminded me. Approaching nearer,
his face was seen to be marked with small pox, a piece was missing
from his nose, and altogether he presented a more remarkable than
attractive appearance. I found him, however, quite talkative, and soon
engaged him in conversation to the extent which my limited knowledge
of the Chinook would permit.
He told me that he was a medicine Tyhee, and inviting me into his
house, showed me the curious medicine dance, dresses, wands, rattles,
charms etc., worn and used by him when practising the healing
heart. The charms were carved out of bone, and represented whales,
bears, ravens, land otters, eagles, thunderbirds, etc., and various
other animals and fish, each accredited with special virtues for the
cure of certain diseases. Selecting several which I desired to
purchase, I placed in his hand the pieces of silver I was willing to
pay for them. He counted the money, and then the charms over and over
again, dwelling at length upon the wonderful curative powers of the
latter, but finally accepting my offer with the addition of a small
potlatch. The occupation of the medicine man is now nearly gone, only
a few old people having any faith in their practice. Modeets is the
only doctor I have seen on the island who has kept the vow taken when
entering upon the profession never to cut or comb his hair. His wife
observing that it was an object of interest to me, unloosened the
great bang, when the thick tangled ringlets spread over the old man's
shoulders and reached down below his waist. To further gratify my
curiosity, the chief put on a portion of his fantastic regalia, and
executed a medicine dance. The doctor then dressed me in his wildest
and most barbaric costume, when _by special request_ I imitated his
performance, in a manner which "brought down the house."