Nin-Ging-Wash, the ranking chief of Skidegate, is about 65 years old,
thick-set, broad-faced, with a grave expression, and quiet reserved
manner. He was introduced to me as the richest Indian on the island,
as having the best houses, finest canoes and youngest wife. A few
years ago he gave away his second wife--growing old--and sued for the
daughter of Seotsgi, the leading chieftain of the West Coast. Presently
she made her appearance, a sprightly young woman about 26, and we
all started in their canoe for their home at Skidegate, where I had
been invited. _En route_ while passing a pipe from the chief to his
wife, my oar caught in the water, giving the canoe a sudden lurch
which would have been quite alarming to most feminine nerves, but
not to the Princess for she laughed so heartily over the mishap,
that I saw a smile spread over the big face of the old chief. An
hour brought us to the broad sandy beach of Skidegate, opposite the
chiefs present residence, a plain comfortable frame house in the
centre of the village. Two large splendid canoes were carefully housed
in front. A small orchard in which a few half-grown apples were seen,
next engaged the attention. The chief's wife carried the keys to the
house and to the piles of trunks and boxes it contained. Their
furniture embraced good modern beds, tables, dressing cases, mirrors,
chairs, stove, lamps and other articles too numerous to mention. They
opened trunk after trunk and box after box and showed me a very
interesting collection of Indian wear; four masquerade head dresses
reaching down to the waist covered with ermine skins valued at $30
each; several complete dancing suits including a beautiful one made by
the princess; Indian blankets, woven by hand from the wool of the
mountain sheep, masks, rattles, etc., and also a good supply of common
blankets and other stores which they exhibited with evident pride.
We next ransacked their old house, a large one, still in good repair,
which stood a few rods distant. Fourteen copper towes of various
sizes, formerly valued at from fifty to five hundred dollars each,
leaned against the broad front. The carved pole is so tall that, when
erected, Nin-Ging-Wash received his present name, which signifies "the
long stick." The house was filled with articles of Indian
manufacture, curiously carved cooking and eating utensils, fishing
implements, boxes, mats, etc. The chiefs property, real and personal,
is worth several thousand dollars. It is reported that he took his
young wife to Victoria, and refurnished his establishment from her
earnings. She apparently has her own way in everything now, the old
chief being quite satisfied to get his rations of muckamuck and
tobacco without troubling himself as to how it is provided.