Mountains clothed with dense forests of cedar, spruce and hemlock
cover most of the surface of the country we are about to
enter. Numerous wonderful inlets, sounds and channels divide it into
an archipelago of many islands, of which Graham, Moresby, Provost,
North Louise, Lyell and Barnaby comprise the greater portion of their
area. Although so far north, being directly under the influence of the
warm Japan current, which sweeps along these shores, the climate is
mild, winters rarely severe, snowfall generally light, except on the
mountains, and rainfall ranging from forty to seventy inches,
according to local topography, the western slopes of the mountains
receiving much the largest amount. Their most valuable known resources
are fish, lumber, fur seal, sea otter and coal. Veins of gold and
copper have also been found, but not sufficiently developed to
indicate their extent and value.
They are inhabited exclusively by the Hyda Indians, now numbering
about 800 souls, who live in the villages of Massett and Skidegate, on
Graham Island; Gold Harbor, on Maud Island, in Skidegate Inlet;
Cumshewa, on Moresby Island; Skedance, on Lyell Island: Tanoo, or
Laskeek, on Tanoo Island, and at Ninstints, on a little island
opposite the west coast entrance to Houston Stewart Channel. Their
origin, in the absence of any written record or historical
inscriptions, is an interesting subject for speculation. Their
features, tattooing, carvings and legends, indicate that they are
castaways from eastern Asia, who, first reaching the islands of
Southern Alaska, soon took and held exclusive possession of the Queen
Charlotte group. Their physical and intellectual superiority over the
other North Coast Indians, and also marked contrasts in the structure
of their language, denote a different origin. They are of good size,
with exceptionally well developed chests and arms, high foreheads and
lighter complexion than any other North American Indians.
Massett, the principal and probably oldest village of the Hyda Nation,
is pleasantly situated on the north shore of Graham Island, at the
entrance to Massett Inlet, Fifty houses, great and small, built of
cedar logs and planks, with a forest of carved poles in front, extend
along the fine beach. The house of Chief Weeah is fifty-five feet
square, containing timbers of immense size, and planks three feet and
one-half in width and eighteen inches thick. The village now has a
population of about 350, the remnants of a once numerous people, the
houses in ruins here having accommodated several times that
number. Massett is the shipyard of the Hydas, the best canoe makers on
the continent, who supply them to the other coast tribes. Here may be
seen in all stages of construction these canoes which, when completed,
are such perfect models for service and of beauty. This is the abode
of the aristocracy of Hyda land--of Head Chief Edensaw, and of Weeah,
Stilta, Kinaskilas, Kiltslouia, Spencer and Cootay, minor chieftains,
who have but little now remaining except their titles, of which they
are very proud. Most of the other villages named were offshoots from
the parent colony caused by family and tribal feuds and
quarrels. Chief Edensaw and most of his people were away at North
Island and other points hunting fur seal, their most profitable
pursuit. Those remaining appeared quite friendly, and disposed to look
with favor upon my undertaking.
I had no difficulty in obtaining the desired Indian guide, and at once
proceeded with the work of examining the islands. Down Massett Inlet
we paddled and sailed for thirty miles, through great flocks of wild
geese and ducks, several of which were soon added to our provision
supply. What a splendid body of inland water, from one-eight of a mile
to twenty miles in width, deep enough for large vessels, abounding in
choice fish and game, its shores covered, with dense forests, where
bear, land otter, and marten are numerous, altogether a veritable
Indian paradise! For several days we coursed slowly along the eastern
side, entering all of the indentations, and following up the streams
flowing into it. My guide, a master of canoe navigation, and well
acquainted with all of the waters of that portion of the islands, was
of so little service upon land, both from ignorance of its topography,
and inexperience of foot expeditions, that I made my interior
excursions alone. Indian trails were almost invariably found,
extending from one to three miles along the water courses, terminating
at or near bodies of the finest red cedar, which they had cut for
canoes and poles, for carving and building purposes. Upon some of
these trails considerable labor had been expended in bridging over
ravines, corduroying marshy places, and cutting through the trunks of
great fallen trees. Only a few of them showed much use of late years,
being obstructed by logs and overgrown with bushes. But, poor as were
these native roads, I was always very glad to find them, and
correspondingly sorry when I could follow them no longer, for beyond
progress was exceedingly difficult; fallen trees from one to eight
feet in diameter, in all stages of decay, thickly overgrown with moss,
lying one above another, not unfrequently to the height of ten or
fifteen feet, covered nearly the whole surface of the country. Several
times I struck bear paths, so well worn that at first I thought that
they had been trodden by human feet, but sooner or later they led me
into thickets through which I could only go on all fours. I found a
bear trap so constructed that, when sprung, an immense log would crush
bruin to the earth; marten traps, where the animal was enticed by a
tempting bait into a noose, which held it fast; and salmon traps, so
made by means of wing dams, with lattice work and boxes in the centre
of the stream, that no ascending fish could escape being
caught. Grouse were very numerous, and so tame from being seldom
hunted, that they would sit upon the branches of the trees almost
within reach. They were excellent eating, quite fat and tender.
Returning to Massett I then prepared for a more extended trip, the
circumnavigation of the entire group of islands, for the purpose of a
preliminary survey of the coast country, to enable me to determine
which portion should receive the greatest share of my attention. The
canoe which I had used on the comparatively smooth waters of the inlet
was old, badly shattered and unseaworthy. I, therefore decided to
purchase a new one, and began to canvass through the village,
examining those which appeared most suitable for the service
required. Though I did this at first without seeing their owners, they
soon ascertained the object of my visit, and before I had concluded a
bargain every man, woman and speaking child in the village became
interested in what to them seemed an important transaction. In matters
of trade the Hydas are no exception to the Indian race generally,
hesitating to set a price, for fear you might pay more if you should
be asked; raising upon their figures if you accept an offer too
readily; or backing down altogether, even after delivery, and
demanding the article back again. Their extreme cautiousness in
dealing with the whites is doubtless due in a great measure to having
been so outrageously cheated by many of the early traders. At length,
after several refusals on my part to accede to their excessive
demands, and consultations of the owner with his people, my offer of
$31 for a canoe, thirty feet long, was accepted, which was a larger
price than they had at first asked. After strengthening it by putting
in cedar ribs, I resumed my travels, accompanied by Mr. Maynard, the
well known, enterprising and plucky artist of Victoria, and Thomas,
who, besides being so excellent in the management of the canoe, knew
the coast very thoroughly as far south as Skidegate, about 100 miles
distant.
We proceeded slowly, only advancing on an average about ten miles a
day, traversing the entire shore on foot, following up the various
rivers and creeks, and examining the extent of open country found. It
comprises in the aggregate, between Massett and Skidegate, about
10,000 acres, better adapted for grazing than agricultural purposes,
the largest tracts lying on Delcatley Inlet, near Massett, and on the
Tlell River, about thirty miles north of Skidegate. The soil is
uniformly sandy and of too recent formation to be much enriched by
decomposition or alluvial deposits. A coarse broad-bladed grass
growing in bunches prevails near the sea shore; a taller variety, of
quite thick and luxuriant growth, on the meadows, while a species of
red top was found on the higher lands. Strawberries, already in
blossom, thickly covered the shore in many places. Cranberry vines
were also found on two of the meadows. The immediate shores are
generally low, thickly wooded with spruce, cedar and hemlock, with
occasional marsh and meadow openings. The streams are small, and with
one exception filled with fallen trees from their mouth up. The Tlell
River, the largest, we were able to ascend several miles before
meeting any obstructions. Although their waters were red from flowing
through cedar swamps, several contain trout and a very choice variety
of small salmon. Between Massett and Skidegate there are no harbors,
only small bays, where vessels might find shelter during off-shore
winds. From Massett Inlet eastward to Rose Spit, the extreme
northeastern point of Graham Island, and from thence southward for
nearly forty miles, a magnificent, broad, sandy, gradually sloping
beach extends the greater portion of the way, being only broken for
short distances by rivers, creeks and rocky headlands.
We became unexpectedly well acquainted with the first thirty miles of
this splendid beach. Maynard and the Indian were to go around Rose
Spit with the canoe and join me upon my return from an excursion
inland. They failing to meet me within the expected time, and a storm
having arisen, I began to fear that they had been driven back before
it, but hoped to find them at the camp of the previous night. Pulling
off the heavy boots in which I had been walking all day, I almost ran
the ten miles, only to find the fishermen's hut we had occupied
dismally dark and silent. Another ten miles was made in all haste, and
still no signs of the party. Here, being very thirsty, I felt my way
in the darkness to a spring, from which we had previously obtained
good fresh water. Dipping my cup, I swallowed a hearty draught of
salt water, which had flowed in with the last tide. Although this was
not a very refreshing or stimulating beverage on an empty stomach for
such exertions, I returned to the smooth beach, followed it eight
miles further to Massett, aroused the sleeping settlement, procured a
canoe, four Indians and provisions, sailed down the coast fifteen
miles, then walked twelve miles, when we met Maynard out searching for
me. They had rounded the point in safety, though a heavy sea shattered
the canoe, and would doubtless have swamped it had not the Indian,
with great coolness and presence of mind, placed his back, with arms
akimbo, to the inrolling breaker, drenching himself, but preventing
the canoe from filling. In the thick fog their movements had escaped
my observation. They had built bonfires to attract my attention,
carried food and chocolate where I would be most likely to find it,
and searched the peninsula over and over for me, in the same state of
alarm in which I was hunting in another direction for them. In the
course of our travels thus far we had found, in addition to several
abandoned fishing huts and houses with carved poles in front, what
appeared to be the remains of an earth and stone work fortification.
It occupied an elevated situation about a mile from the sea shore,
and consisted of an excavation about 100 feet square, surrounded
by an embankment of earth and stones, which could hardly have been
made except by human hands.
Near the close of the thirteenth day we reached the Indian village of
Skidegate, comprising thirty houses and 100 people. It is situated
near the entrance to the inlet of that name, one of the most important
bodies of water embraced within the Queen Charlotte group. At high
tide it is navigable through connecting waters for small vessels
entirely across the island, here about thirty miles, varying from one
to five miles in width. Its shores are generally gradually sloping,
with long stretches of sandy beach, bordered by a thick forest which,
covering the mountains, rising from 800 to 3,500 feet, within from
five to ten miles, bounds the horizon on every hand. Here are
convenient halibut banks, salmon and trout streams. Codfish,
flounders, crabs, clams and mussels, and dog fish in such great
numbers that 5,000 have recently been caught with hooks by four men
within twenty-four hours for the Skidegate Oil Company. The natives
have extracted their oil for many years by throwing heated stones into
hollowed logs, filled with dog fish livers. But the oil obtained by
this rude process was so frequently burnt and filled with dirt that it
became very unpopular and could only be sold at a low price. The
company above mentioned, by the introduction of the most approved
retorts, have succeeded in extracting an article so pure and clear
that it meets with a ready sale at a good price, and is regarded as
one of the best oils in use, especially for all lubricating
purposes. The company manufacture about 40,000 gallons annually,
giving employment to the Indians from all parts of the island during
the summer months. They are now assembling at Skidegate, which they
make their headquarters during the dog fishing season. The shore is
covered with canvas, Indian men, women and children, dried halibut,
herring spawn, fishing tackle, bedding and camp equippage, presenting
a scene of great interest.
Remaining here over night several voices were heard singing familiar
hymns in a house close at hand. Going to the entrance I found a prayer
meeting in progress, and, being invited in, remained to its
close. Knowing that they had received only very limited missionary
instruction, and none whatever for several months, I was considerably
surprised that of their own motion, and without any white leader, they
should hold such a well-conducted religious service. The songs were
well rendered in English, the praying and speaking being in their
native language.
I refitted at Skidegate, hiring a stronger canoe and two Hydah
Indians, known as Sam and Tom, who, together, were well acquainted
with the principal waters to be traversed. Proceeding southward,
steep and often precipitous mountains, ranging in elevation from 800
to 4,000 feet above the sea, rugged and rocky on their western slopes,
densely covered with forests of spruce, hemlock and cedar, extended
from Skidegate to Cape St. James, and from Queen Charlotte Sound to
the Pacific Ocean, over all the islands, so far as any observations
extend, except a few thousand acres of grazing lands. Small tracts of
arable meadows and garden patches are cultivated by the natives. The
narrowness of the island south of Skidegate leaves but little room for
an interior, beyond the range of the eye, when standing upon the
summits of the highest mountains, after having traversed their
shores. The latter are uniformly rock bound, frequently bluffy or
precipitous, from 20 to 1,500 feet in height, with generally very
limited borders of level country, the base of the steep mountains
reaching down to the sea, with but narrow foothill slopes. The streams
flowing from the short watersheds are small but numerous, and without
exception, filled with fallen trees from their source to their
mouth. Their waters are generally rapid, clear and good. Trout are
plentiful in most of them, and a small, very excellent salmon is
caught in considerable numbers in several of the largest. We found
Chief Skidegate and several of his people securing their spring supply
by means of traps, from a creek flowing into Copper Bay, and Chief
Skedance _en route_ for the same purpose to a small stream emptying
into Cumshewa Inlet from Louise Island.
The rivers, which I followed to their source, rise in lakes and small
swampy mountain basins. There are several harbors, where large vessels
may find perfect shelter during the severest storms. Although the
timber area is so great, there are but few localities where saw mills
could be profitably operated. The forest embraces no Douglass fir, but
little available yellow cedar or cypress, and only comparatively small
bodies of merchantable spruce, which are accessible without the
construction of expensive roads. Between Skidegate and Cape St. James
there are more than thirty islands and islets, and bays, inlets,
harbors, sounds and channels in great numbers. Day after day and week
after week we paddled, rowed and sailed along these wonderful shores,
visiting the Indian villages of Cumshewa, Skedance, Laskeek, or Tanoo,
and Ninstints, all occupied, and several others now abandoned. We also
crossed Moresby Island from the east to the west coast at two
different points, where the Indians assured me that there were trails
over which canoes had sometimes been carried. We found no signs of a
trail, except for a short distance, but, on the contrary, a country so
difficult to traverse, on account of swamps and fallen timber, that
the transportation of canoes through it would be a most laborious
undertaking.
All of the villages named are beautifully situated, facing the south
from cozy sheltered nooks, with splendid beaches, and abundant
supplies of food conveniently near. Besides the halibut bank marked on
the chart, there is one near all of the villages mentioned, and
inexhaustible quantities of clams and mussels along the neighboring
shores. This is certainly one of the most favored regions in the world
for the abode of the Indian. From the number and size of their houses
now occupied, and ruins, from fifty to seventy in each village, their
burial Ghans and houses filled with the dead, these islands most have
contained at least ten times their present population. Smallpox and
the corruption of their women have been the principal causes of their
destruction. The Hyda women, being good looking compared with those
of the other coast tribes, have for twenty years been the special prey
of the coarse libertines of a large floating population, until virtue
is almost unknown among them. Nothing can save the race from speedy
extinction except the most careful Christian training of their few
healthy children. There are no missionaries in any of these villages,
nor have they been visited by white men, except at long intervals.
They treated me, however, with great kindness, inviting me to sleep in
their houses, both at Laskeek and Ninstints, and presenting my guides
with dried and fresh halibut, dried sea weed, fish spawn, and the eggs
of sea fowl.
Many of the natives, especially the women, were painted; a few of the
oldest wore rings on their ankles, and all had their noses pierced for
them. My guides painted at Ninstints both black and red, and urged me
to do so, saying that it would not only improve my appearance, but
prevent the skin from blistering. The preservation of their complexion
I find to be the principal reason for painting by the women. They are
the fairest on the Coast, and evidently conscious of it. One young
woman, exceptionally good looking, ran to a brook upon our approach,
and quickly washed off the unsightly pitch, deer tallow and charcoal,
that she might appear in all her native charms.
Until we rounded Cape St. James, the extreme southern portion of the
islands, we encountered but little disagreeably rough sea. Opposite
Barnaby Island, however, we were struck by a heavy squall, which swept
our canoe over the surface of the water for more than 200 feet, and to
within about twenty feet of a precipitous rocky shore, upon which the
waves were dashing furiously, before we could recover the use of the
oars. But, from the cape northwest, it was a continuous battle amidst
storms from all quarters, encountering strong adverse winds and much
of what the Indians called _hyas solleks chuck_ (very rough sea). I
could then understand why, before leaving, they had inquired so
carefully of Mr. McGregor, who recommended them, if I had a _skookum
tumtum_ (a stout heart), and of me personally whether I was subject to
sea sickness. We were four days rounding one point, making three
unsuccessful attempts, the Indians turning back, but not until our
canoe had been nearly swamped by heavy breakers. The skill of the
natives in handling the canoe is something wonderful. When once at
sea, I left its entire management to their judgment. On one occasion,
when off a rocky point, we were struck by a heavy sea with alarming
force. To advance was seen to be impossible, and to turn back was
almost equally perilous. It was no time for indecision, for another
great breaker was rolling toward us. With a single signal word from
the helmsman, with perfect coolness, a few powerful strokes at just
the right time reversed our little bark, and we were soon in safe
water again.
For considerable distances on the west coast rocky precipitous
mountains face the sea, in places not less than 1,500 feet in height,
almost perpendicular, rising over 4,000 feet within a few miles
back. When running the guantlet of the storms along these forbidding
shores we looked into the mouths of several dark caverns of unknown
depth. Twice Indian Tom raised his paddle, placed four small wads of
tobacco thereon, and, with a supplicating motion of his right hand
toward these caverns, made an offering to the spirits which are
supposed to inhabit them, praying that we might have a safe
voyage. Here we found what I believe to be the grandest scenery of the
Queen Charlotte Islands. We had been pulling for six hours against
head winds, squalls and rough seas along this rocky, high walled
shore, which seemed to offer no place where a landing would be
possible, when suddenly the canoe turned toward land, ran through a
narrow rock bound passage into a little basin about fifty rods square,
surrounded by mountains rising precipitously from 1500 to 2500 feet,
down which ten cataracts were plunging. Grand View Inlet, or whatever
it may be called, is situated about eight miles south of Tasso
Harbor. As we were leaving it two land otters were seen swimming near
the shore. Giving chase, one of them ran out upon the land, where,
after an exciting hunt with dogs, it was killed. One evening, as we
were camping in a rocky cove, Indian Sam suddenly seized his gun, ran
down to the shore, and mounted a great rock where seal had been
seen. Presently he fired, and then stripping off his shirt, dove
headlong into the sea. He soon rose to the surface grasping a great
seal, with which he swam to the shore. Although they had eaten a
hearty supper, they sat up until midnight gorging themselves with its
excessively fat meat. They had one continual feast from the beginning
to the end of the expedition, devouring, besides the supplies taken
with us, seal, wild geese, duck, octopus, clams, halibut, mussels, sea
eggs, bird's eggs, fish spawn, salmon, etc., in great quantities. On
the thirty-third day after leaving Massett, I returned to Skidegate
through the Canoe Passage and Skidegate Channel, where I again
refitted for the west coast of Graham Island and the Virago Sound
country, next to be traversed.