High steep mountains, dense and almost unbroken forests, islands and
islets in great number and water-ways most wonderful, extend for a
thousand miles along this north-west coast "Only mountains, forests
and water," replied an Indian, of whom I made inquiries concerning
this region. The Queen Charlotte Islands, in common with all those
lying off the north-west coast of the continent, are evidently the
mountain tops of a submerged land, separated from it by a mighty
volcanic upheaval followed by the sinking of the earth's surface, and
the inflowing of the waters of the ocean, forming the most remarkable
labyrinth of inlets, sounds, straits, channels and passages on the
face of the globe. A continuous range of mountains from 600 to 5,000
feet in height, extends the entire length of the islands nearest their
western coast, reaching their maximum elevations on Moresby Island,
between Darwin Sound, and the head of Cumshewa Inlet. These are
clothed with an evergreen forest of spruce, hemlock and cedar from
near their summits down to the coast, with the exception of the
comparatively small areas, as hereafter specified. The shores of the
islands from Cumshewa Inlet southward to Cape St. James, and from
thence northward around the west and north coast to Massett, are
uniformly rock-bound, containing however, many stretches of fine,
sandy, or gravelly beaches. From Massett to Dead Tree Point, Moresby
Island, a distance by the coast line of about seventy-five miles, a
magnificent broad beach of white sand, extends the greater portion of
the way. The shores of Naden Harbor and Skidegate Inlet and channel
are also generally low and sandy. With the exception of the north and
eastern portion of Graham Island, the base of the mountains reaching
down to the sea, with only occasional narrow benches and gradual
foot-hill slopes. The highest elevations on the immediate coast, from
North Island east and southward to Cumshewa Inlet, Klas-kwun Point,
Tow Hill and Cape Ball of Moresby Island, do not exceed four hundred
feet. From thence to Cape St. James, there are several bold, rocky
bluffs, from three to eight hundred feet in height, but along the west
side of Moresby Island, between Henry Bay and Gold Harbor, the
mountains present, for considerable distances, an almost perpendicular
front of from one to two-thousand five hundred feet in height, and in
many places the mountains bordering the inlets to the northward, are
almost equally high and precipitous.
* * * * *
Passages, Inlets and Channels.
The principal islands of the group, as mentioned, are separated by
narrow water-ways, admitting the passage of the largest ships through
them, with the exception of the narrows of Skidegate Channel and
Inlet, navigable only for small vessels at flood tide. These are Parry
Passage, between North and Graham Islands, a mile-and-a-half in width,
and two miles-and-a-half in length, Skidegate Inlet and Channel
separating Graham from Moresby Island, together thirty-five miles in
length, and from 250 feet to seven miles in width, and Stewart Houston
Channel twelve miles long, with an average breadth of a mile
and-a-half, between Moresby and Provost Island. We also found a short
canoe passage between the latter island and Cape St. James. Besides
these sea channels extending across the group, there are twenty inlets
from three to fifteen miles in depth, generally running in an easterly
and westerly direction, and reaching to the base of the high mountains
described. These numerous inlets, with the bays therein embraced,
leave but a skeleton land of Moresby Island and the south-western
portion of Graham. Massett Inlet, the deepest indentation in the
archipelago, penetrates the latter island for eighteen miles, and then
expands into an open sea nearly twenty miles in length and over six
miles in width.
* * * * *
Bays, Harbors and Sounds.
The waters surrounding these islands embrace numerous bays, harbors
and sounds, of which Cloak Bay, North Island, Virago Sound, Naden and
Massett Harbors of Graham Island, Darwin and Juan Perez Sounds,
Laskeek, Sedgwick, Henry and Robson Bays, Gold Harbor of Moresby
Island, Cartwright and Rennell Sounds, and the excellent harbors
afforded by Kio-Kath-li, Skaloo, Athlow, and Seal Inlets on the west
coast of Graham are the most important. There are no harbors, except
for small boats, between Massett and Skidegate Inlets by the east
coast.
* * * * *
Islands.
Of the great number of islands and islets contained in the archipelago
the largest and most important except those mentioned are, Louise,
Lyell, Barnaby, Tal-un Kwan, Tanoo, Ramsay, Murchison, Kun-ga, Faraday
and Huxley Islands, all lying off the east coast of Moresby; Maud and
South Islands in Skidegate Inlet; Cub, Edward Kwa-kans, Wat-hoo-us and
Multoos of Masset Inlet and Sound; Frederick and Nesto on the west
coast of Graham and Chathl island between the entrance waters of
Skidegate Channel and the canoe passage connecting therewith. Of these
named Lyell and Louise islands, the largest, are about 15 miles in
length and from five to ten miles in width. Barnaby, Talun-Kwan, Tanoo
and Cub islands are each from eight to ten miles long. The others are
much smaller--from two to three miles in length.
All of the largest except Cub Island are mountainous, and forest
covered down to their shores. Hot Spring island, situated between
Ramsay and Faraday, though small, deserves mention as containing a
spring of very hot water, slightly impregnated with sulphur and salts.
* * * * *
Rivers.
There are hundreds of streams upon the islands, from ten to
twenty-five miles in length, and from fifteen to one hundred and fifty
feet in width. The Ya-koun River, the largest, rises in Ya-koun Lake,
and flowing northward empties into Massett Harbor, twenty-six miles
south of Massett. It affords uninterrupted navigation for canoes about
a mile and-a-half, and beyond to its source, by means of small
dug-outs and numerous portages. The Naden River, rising in Eden Lake,
and discharging into the head of Naden Harbor, is next in size. It is
broader and deeper than the Ya-koun, navigable for canoes between two
and-a-half and three miles, but is only about ten miles in length. The
river Tlell emptying into Queen Charlotte Sound twenty-five miles
north of Skidegate Inlet, is the principal stream discharging on the
outer coast of the island. Canoes can ascend it two or three miles at
high tide. The Ain River, of Massett Harbor, Jalun of the north coast,
Slate Chuck and Dena of Skidegate Inlet, Skidegate Chuck of Moresby
Island, are among the other more important streams. All of these, and
many others of lesser size, flowing into the numerous inlets, are the
resort of salmon in great numbers. Upon the banks of the Ya-koun,
Naden and Ain Rivers, the natives have obtained their choicest
specimens of red cedar for their canoes, carved poles, and house
building. Numerous bear, and marten traps, in the last stages of
decay, were found upon them. They are generally filled with logs to
near their mouth, with rapids and shoals in their upper courses. Their
waters are clear and good, with the exception of those flowing from
the northern and eastern portions of Graham Island.
* * * * *
Lakes.
Soo-o-uns or Clifford Lake, the source of the Ain River, is so far as
known, the largest body of inland water upon the islands, being from
eight to ten miles in length, and from two to three miles in
width. Yakoun, Eden and Awan Lakes, the sources of the rivers bearing
their respective names are next in size.
* * * * *
Climate.
The climate of the islands, being under the influence of the warm
Japan current, is much milder than upon the coast of the mainland
opposite. I found vegetation more advanced at Massett, and all along
the northern and eastern shores of the islands in April, than at Port
Simpson. It is rarely severely cold, and then only a few days at a
time. Snow falls, according to elevation, from one to five feet in
depth, and remains upon the mountain tops until late in summer, and in
a few deep gorges on their northern slopes throughout the year. It not
infrequently reaches down to the coast, but then generally disappears
in a short time. The temperature is equable, the extreme heat of
summer seldom exceeding seventy-five degrees, Fahrenheit. During the
months of April, May and June, the thermometer ranged from forty deg.,
at 5 A.M., to about sixty-five deg., in the middle of the day. I kept
no record later than June, having loaned my instrument to a vessel,
whose barometer had become useless. The annual rainfall varies
according to local topography, from forty-five inches to seventy-five
inches, the west coast, especially at the heads of the inlets,
receiving much the largest amount, and the north and eastern portions
of Graham Island the minimum. There were about fifty-five, clear days
in the months of June, July and August of the past season, which I was
informed was about an average one in that respect. Throughout the
winter months the sky is almost continuously overcast, one rain
storm--frequently accompanied, especially on the west coast, by
violent gales--succeeding another, with but few and short intervals of
clear weather. The winds are very changeable, those from the north
being the most prevalent and reliable.
* * * * *
Soil.
A light sandy soil, generally prevails over all the islands, except
those large areas covered by rocky mountains. The best lands lie
mainly at the heads of inlets and mouths of the larger streams. There
are occasional tracts of swampy lands containing a deep soft fibrous
deposit resembling peat. A clayey subsoil was seen in a few places
near Cape Ball on the east coast of Graham island.
* * * * *
Agricultural and Grazing Lands.
There are about fifteen thousand acres of clear land upon the islands
on and near the coast including river tide meadows. The largest tracts
lie on the north and east side of Graham Island as more specifically
located in Progress Report Nos. 1 and 3. The mountains embrace
probably twenty thousand acres of open, timberless lands producing
considerable pasture. The grasses of the coast, with the exception on
some meadows, are generally coarse and thin. Graham Island will
support a few hundred cattle, by cutting all its meadows for winter
feeding. The grazing of the interior is very limited, owing to the
density of the forest growth, its numerous swamps, and almost
impassable deadfalls.
* * * * *
Forest Growth.
The forest growth is very dense, and composed chiefly of spruce,
hemlock, red and yellow cedar. I have measured several spruce trees,
and also red cedars from thirty to thirty-three feet in circumference,
the finest specimens having been found on Skidegate and Massett
Inlets. With the exception of those localities, I have seen no place
upon the islands, where the available quantity of these woods is
sufficient to warrant the erection of mills for their manufacture for
exportation. There are fine specimens of yellow cedar of very
scattering growth, and several bodies of considerable size on the
borders of the interior lakes of Graham and Moresby Islands, as
hereafter more specifically described in Progress Report No. 2. Its
utilization is of doubtful practibility, on account of its distance
from navigable water, and the obstructions of the streams flowing
therein. There is an occasional alder bottom, hemlock is quite common,
bull pine is found in a few localities, and yew, dog-wood and
crab-apple occur upon all the islands. There is a dense undergrowth of
salal, whortle, salmon, raspberry and other bushes, and shrubs.
* * * * *
Wild Animals.
Black bear, land otter, marten, weasel and mice, are so far as known,
the only native animals upon the islands. Deer and rabbit have been
placed upon Graham Island, by Alexander McKenzie Esq., of Massett, and
the latter by Rev. Mr. Robinson upon Bare Island in Skidegate
Inlet. The Indians report having seen a species of Caribou, on the
northwest part of Graham Island.
* * * * *
Birds.
The birds of the Queen Charlotte Islands are, eagles, ravens, crows,
hawks, owls, black-birds, blue-jays, humming birds, wrens, swallows
and bats, of the same kind found in other parts of this region.
* * * * *
Resources--Fish, Etc.
The waters surrounding the Queen Charlotte Islands, abound with the
most valuable varieties of fish found in this region. Hallibut are
caught in unlimited quantities, upon banks near all the Indian
villages; small salmon of excellent quality frequent nearly all the
larger streams in the spring, and a much larger, though inferior kind
in the fall of the year. I have seen fine silver salmon at the mouth
of the Ya-koun River, but it is doubtful whether they, or any other
marketable salmon, frequent these waters in great numbers. Immense
schools of dog-fish feed on the shoals off the north and eastern
shores of the islands, herring of good size and excellent quality
visit Skidegate and other inlets in such great quantities that their
spawn forms an important article of diet with the natives. Flat-fish,
rock-cod, salmon and brook-trout, clams and mussels are plentiful.
* * * * *
Black Cod.
Called by the Hydahs, Skil, and known on other parts of the coast as
Pollock and Coal-fish, are caught off the west coast of the
islands. They have been prized hitherto for their oil, which the
natives have extracted, by boiling them in wooden tanks, with heated
stones. Samples obtained by Hon. James G. Swan in 1883, and by
Messrs. McGregor and Combes during the present season, have been
pronounced so excellent by competent judges, that the establishment of
a fishery for their utilization, would seem to be practicable,
providing that they can be taken in sufficient quantities. Messrs.
McGregor and Combes caught 110 in three hours, about two miles
from shore, opposite Gold Harbor, Moresby Island, fishing from
a canoe manned by three Indians, with two kelp lines, 250 fathoms
in length, with 60 native hooks upon each, baited with halibut.
The fish dressed weight on an average six pounds each, the largest
being thirty-three inches in length. They are easily cured with
salt and keep well. It is believed that a good steam schooner of
about 100 tons register, provided with Colombia River boats of the
largest size, manned by practical cod fishermen, will be best adapted
for catching these fish in marketable quantities. There are good
harbors of easy access, within ten or fifteen miles off the fishing
grounds, all along the west coast.
* * * * *
Minerals--Gold, Etc.
Gold was discovered at the head of Gold, or Mitchell Harbor on the
west coast of Moresby Island in 1852, by an Indian, since known as
Captain Gold, and about $5,000 taken out by the Hudson Bay Company,
when the vein (quartz) pinched out. Parties of prospectors have
examined the locality since, but have not found any further
deposits. Colors of gold have been washed out from the sands on the
east and north shores of Graham Island.
* * * * *
Coal.
Numerous veins of coal have been previously discovered on Moresby and
Graham Islands, the most important of which are the anthracite deposits
situated on the Skidegate Inlet, and described under the head of "The
Cowgits Coal Mine" in progress report No. 4. There are outcroppings of
coal in several other places on and near the shores of this inlet,
viz: on its south side, nearly opposite the Cowgits seams, on Alliford
Bay, and on the north side about half a mile from the Indian village
of Skidegate. These coals are of a bituminous character, but the veins
exposed are only a few inches in thickness.
Beds of lignite formation lie on the north side of Graham Island
between Tow Hill and Chown Point, on the Yakoun and Mamin rivers of
Massett Inlet, on Lignite Brook and Naden Harbor and on the west coast
near the sea otter hunters' camp of Tledoo. Coal has also been found
at the head of Skaloo Inlet.
The Indians have brought in specimens of bituminous coal said to have
been obtained upon a stream discharging into Cumshewa Inlet, and they
also report having seen a seam near Ninstints. Messrs Knight, Williams
and Allen, practical coal miners of Nanaimo, prospected the islands
for coal during the past summer, but made no locations.
* * * * *
Copper.
Copper bearing rocks, and veins occur in several localities on the
east coast of Moresby Island, and shafts have been sunk into them at
Copper Bay and opposite Copper Island and abandoned. The examination
of these deposits is briefly mentioned in progress report No. 2.
* * * * *
Productions, Cereals and Vegetables.
Oats are the only cereal which has been successfully grown in the
islands.
Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, peas, and garden vegetables generally,
with the exception of Indian corn tomatoes and melons are raised.
* * * * *
Fruits.
Crab-apples, red, blue and black whortleberries, Scotch, salal, salmon
and strawberries are very abundant. Cranberries were found on the
north and east side of Graham Island. A few black currants and
gooseberries were also seen. Apple and pear trees grow well, but bear
an inferior fruit which seldom ripens.
* * * * *
Inhabitants--Physical Characteristics.
These islands are inhabited by about 800 Hydah Indians, a very
remarkable race of people. The most common type of the adult unmixed
Hydah is about five feet, seven inches in height, thick-set,
large-boned, with fairly regular broad features, coal-black hair and
eyes, and a bronze complexion. They have generally--both men and
women--finely developed breasts and fore-arms, caused by their almost
daily use of the canoe paddle from infancy. A few have well-formed
legs, though the greater number are defective in this respect,
resulting from much sitting, or rather squatting in their, canoes, in
and around their lodges, with but comparatively little walking. Their
feet are so short, broad and thick through the instep, that shoes are
made by the manufacturer, expressly for them. Some of the young men
wear a moustache, and a scanty beard is occasionally seen upon the
face of the old men, though both generally eradicate such hair as it
grows. Only the women and medicine men permit the hair of the head to
grow long. They walk with a springy light tread and agile step,
though I easily outran a young Indian of Massett, who matched himself
against me. Some of them are very strong in the arms, an Indian of
Skidegate beating me at "tug of war." Many are expert swimmers,
sometimes diving from their canoes into the rough sea, and bringing
out wounded seal which have sunk to the bottom. One of my men
performed such a feat, springing from the top of a great rock, where
the ocean was breaking. They are intelligent and quick to learn from
observation.
There are, probably, more well formed and featured people among the
Hydas than any other aboriginal race, though there are none which can
be considered handsome; indeed I have never seen an Indian beauty, nor
an adult Indian woman of graceful movement. Black hair and eyes, white
teeth and occasionally a rich olive complexion are their chief
attractions. The Indian ages rapidly and are shorter lived than the
whites. They suffer most from pulmonary and venereal diseases, the
faces of many being scarred by the latter in its worst forms. Small
pox has also destroyed them by the hundreds.
* * * * *
Dress--Ornaments. Etc.
The Hydas have so far adopted the dress of the whites, that with the
exception of blankets--still much worn by both sexes at their homes,
and dancing suits--their original costumes are now seldom seen. The
blanket has been substituted for the sea-otter cloak, trousers and
dresses for the breech cloth, and leather undergarments by woven ones.
The men wear hats, but the women very rarely; a handkerchief or shawl
being their most common head covering. Some of the elderly women,
however, wear large hats of the Chinese pattern, braided by them from
the roots of the spruce tree. The women are very fond of bright,
striking colors; though many exhibit considerable taste by the
selection of dark shades, suited to their complexion. The men are
quite as much inclined to over-dress as the women, when they have the
means. On one of the hottest days of summer, I saw an Indian parading
through the village of Skidegate, dressed in a full suit of black,
including a _heavy beaver Ulster_. Both men and women generally go
with barefeet, except when engaged in some occupation away from home,
which exposes them to injury.
Nearly all the adults are tattooed upon the arms and legs, many upon
the breasts, and occasionally one upon the face. The designs usually
represent tribal and family crests and totem. The practice is being
gradually discontinued. The face is generally painted for dances, by
the women when mourning, and frequently by both sexes when travelling,
to protect it from the effects of the sun and wind, Vermillion, the
fungus of trees, burnt and ground, common charcoal, deer tallow, and
spruce gum are used for this purpose. Labrets--pieces of wood, bone or
shell, from 1.5 to 2.5 inches in length--are worn by a few old
females, but this hideous, monstrosity is now never found upon the
young women. Many of the middle-aged, however, pierce the centre of
the lower lip and insert a small silver tube, which projects about a
quarter of an inch. Both sexes perforate the septum of the nose for
rings, but I have only seen two worn by the Hydas, and these were
silver. The medicine men, while performing their dances, sometimes
insert a semi-circular bone from eight to ten inches in length. They
are very fond of ornaments, which are used in profusion, especially
upon their dance and ceremonial dresses and robes, and by the females
upon their persons. I saw a woman at Skidegate with sixteen silver
rings upon her hands, and two or three heavy silver bracelets are
quite commonly worn. Feathers, mother-of-pearl buttons, puffin bills,
abalone, dentalum and other shells, silver pieces, and deer toes, are
among their favorite articles of adornment.
* * * * *
Manners and Customs.
The Indian generally, is an ill-mannered brute, who steals into your
presence without warning, handles whatever he sees without permission,
smokes if you allow it, and seldom, especially if a middle-aged or old
woman, leaves you without begging a potlatch. He exhibits very little
deferential respect for his superiors, seldom expresses gratitude for
favors, and more rarely does them without expecting compensation. At
their homes, however, there is much to be commended in their conduct.
There they are generally quiet and peaceable, converse in low tones,
and treat their children with kindness. There is a noticeable
difference in favor of the deportment of those Hydas of Massett and
Skidegate who have come under the influence of missionary training.
* * * * *
Domestic Relations.
The Hydas generally enter the marriage state in early youth, the
females frequently between the ages of fourteen and sixteen. Matches
are often arranged by the parents before the children are old enough
to choose for themselves. In such cases when of suitable age, the
young man and woman begin to live together without other ceremony than
a mutual agreement and understanding between them and their relatives,
and the bestowal of presents and dowry upon the bride. When the
parties make their own selections, which is now oftenest done, and the
young man falls in love, he tells his mother, who goes to the mother
of his sweetheart, (ka-ta-dha,) and makes a declaration of her son's
affection for and desire to marry the girl. If the proposal is
favorably received, the parents and friends of the groom assemble at
an appointed time at the house of the bride's parents, where, all
sitting around the fire, the good qualities of the young man are
praised by his friends to the father of the girl. She is present,
also, and if satisfied after listening to all the gracious words in
favor of her intended, she rises from her place, goes and sits down
beside her lover, and taking his hand in hers the ceremony is
complete. Among those Hydas who profess Christianity, marriage is
solemnized by a ceremony, at which a missionary or Justice of the
Peace officiates, the same as among the whites, and other unions are
not regarded as binding. Polygamy was formerly much practised,
especially by the chiefs, who took young women for their wives as
often as they desired them, but none of the natives, so far as my
obervation extended, now have more than one wife. Married women are
generally well treated, and instead of being mere menial servants as
frequently represented, they oftener carry the purse than the men, and
have an equal voice in the management of family affairs. Indeed, the
only domestic unpleasantness which I witnessed were cases of young
wives vigorously asserting authority over the "old man." The marriage
relation has, however, undergone a radical change since so many
females, from their own earnings, not only bring most of the money
into the household, but frequently support the men in idleness.
* * * * *
Slavery.
Slavery has existed among the Hydas, as with the other native races,
from the earliest times. Until a comparatively recent period they were
always at war with some of the coast tribes, and, being generally
victorious, made many captives, whom they held in bondage, usually
attached to the household of the conquering chief, who became their
absolute owner and master, even to ordering their sacrifice, which has
occurred on many occasions. A slave, (elaidi), was formerly valued at
from one hundred and fifty to two hundred blankets, but now, though
there are still a number upon the island, they are no longer bought
and sold, but enjoy unrestrained freedom. Many prefer to remain with
or near their former masters and render service for food and
protection--especially men--rather than return to their native
villages and endure the disgrace and taunts for having been overcome
in battle. Several white men have been captured and held as slaves by
the Hydas within the last thirty years.
* * * * *
Potlatches.
This custom of distributing property prevails more or less among all
the northwestern tribes. The potlatch is usually preceded by a feast,
also provided by the donor. They are never prompted by a spirit of
unselfish generosity, but are given as a means of acquiring popularity
and influence, for the compensation of labor performed, in
satisfaction for injuries done, and sometimes as a means of
revenge. The greatest potlatches are given by the chiefs, either for
the purpose of obtaining or retaining the chieftaincy. On such
occasions the feasts are sometimes prolonged for days, and hundreds of
blankets distributed. Whenever a great house or carved pole is
erected, there is a feast and potlatch for all who assist in the
work. They are also held on occasions of tattooing, when females
arrive at maturity, and as a part of the funeral ceremony. In most
instances a record is kept of the property dispensed, and an
equivalent, if not already received, is expected at some future
potlatch.
* * * * *
Dancing and Masquerading.
The Hydas are fond of dancing, and display great ingenuity in devising
many grotesque and fanciful costumes for wearing upon such
occasions. Every beast, bird and fish almost of which they have any
knowledge, is represented in some form--the heads of bear, seal and
other animals are worn upon their heads, and also hideous masks, with
moving eyes and lips The costly _na-xin_, or blanket, woven from the
wool of the mountain goat, is thrown over the shoulder; curiously
carved rattles are held in their hands, whistles imitating owls, wild
geese, loons, eagles and other animals, are blown, drums are beaten;
castanets--small hoops upon which numerous puffin beaks are
suspended--shaken, birds' down is scattered until it fills the air and
covers the performers, who, with a swinging, slouchy movement, dance
for an hour at a time, rattling, whistling, singing and grunting.
There are reception dances--_Skaga_ and _Hi-ate_--house-building
dances--_Skadul_, the _Kata-ka-gun_ dance when the house is completed,
and the _Skarut_ dance, preceding a distribution of property--and also
on occasions of tattooing and death. The latter is performed by a
single man, naked with the exception of a breech-cloth, wearing a
hideous mask on his head. He runs at large through the village, and
simulating an infuriated wild beast, seizes dogs, tears them in
pieces, and eats the raw flesh. Nearly all these dances have been
abandoned at Massett and Skidegate, but most of them are still
practiced in those villages not yet reached by the missionaries.
* * * * *
Totems and Crests.
There are five separate totems or crests among these people,
established, apparently, to avoid too close blood relationships.
These are _Koot_, (eagle), _Kooji_, (wolf), _Kit-si-naka_, (crow), and
_Sxa-nu-xa_, (black bear and fin-whale united). The several tribes are
supposed to have been originally about equally divided under these
different totems. Marriage between those of the same totem is
forbidden, and the system is perpetuated by the children adopting the
totem or crest of the mother.
* * * * *
Religion.
The Hydas, with the exception of those who have embraced the Christian
faith, have no forms of religious worship, and I am informed by
Rev. Mr Harrison, missionary at Massett, and probably the best
authority upon the subject, that there is no word in their language
which signifies the praise or adoration of a Supreme Being. They
believe in a Great Spirit, a future life, and in the transmigration of
souls. Their God, (Sha-nung-et-lag-e-das), possesses chiefly the
attributes of power, and is invoked to help them attain their
desires. Their Devil, (Het-gwa-lan-a), corresponds with the devil of
common belief, a demon who in various forms brings upon them evil and
destruction.
* * * * *
Morals.
The moral degradation of these people is so great that they seem to be
nearly destitute of any sense of wrong-doing, while committing the
grossest social sins imaginable. There is every reason to believe that
before they came in contact with the whites, that they were much given
to licentious practices. Many of their legends and traditions are
filled with vulgarities too great for translation. But with the
opportunities afforded after the influx of whites into their country
for obtaining money by the prostitution of their females, this
practice has prevailed until many of the present generation of young
Indian women seem to regard this mode of serving their kindred as
their legitimate end. Almost incredible as it may appear, fathers and
mothers become procurers for their own daughters, brothers for
sisters, and, in some instances, husbands for their wives. Soon after
my arrival at Skidegate, a Hyda young man called at my cabin to see if
I would not take a rather comely Indian girl, about twenty years of
age, who accompanied him, to live with me, and neither seemed in the
slightest degree embarrassed, either in making the proposition or when
it was declined. Immodesty of speech or action in public places,
however, is rare, even among those women who change their _man_ so
often as it suits their caprice or convenience. Both the married and
unmarried have apparently not neglected their opportunities to improve
upon the native stock by the introduction of foreign blood. There are
Russian, English, Canadian, American, Chinese and Negro Hydas; Hydas
with fiery red hair, tow heads, blue eyes, and all complexions from
black to pale white. Many of these homeless half-breeds are farmed out
with relatives, by their mothers, when single, thus leaving them free
to go and come without incumbrance. Barrenness, disease and early
death are the fruits of such promiscuous intercourse, to such an
extent that their utter extinction from these causes is inevitable,
unless they are speedily removed. Their only hope of long surviving
lies in the careful training of the young children by the
missionaries. The habits and associations of the adults are too strong
to be much affected by their labors.
* * * * *
Legends and Traditions.
The mind of the Indian is full of weird strange fancies and
imaginations. Groping in darkness, in almost total ignorance of the
discoveries of science, with nothing to guide or correct him, it is no
wonder that in his blind struggles to solve the great problems which
are more or less a mystery to us all--the origin of man and original
creations--that he has wrought out the incongruous mixture of
ignorance, superstition and vulgar imagination which mainly compose
their legends and traditions. Some of them are doubtless based upon
actual occurrences in the remote ages, which they have interwoven with
their own fancies; others upon the exploits and experiences of their
ancestors; though the greater number are pure fictions, fairy tales
and hobgoblin stories, handed down from generation to generation. It
would require a large volume to contain them all, and years to
translate them with accuracy. I can therefore only give a few examples
from those most frequently narrated, which I had from the lips of
Edensaw, the oldest and ranking Chief of the Hydah nation, and
Goo'd-nai-u-uns, wife of Goo-gul, well known as a gifted relator of
their legends and traditions. Ne-kil-stlas is their great creative
geni, who, by transforming himself into men, women, children, beasts,
birds and fishes, or whatever thing is best suited to accomplish his
designs, performs the most miraculous deeds. Ne-kil-stlas is known
also as Kill-sing-ne-kee-uns, Goya-ta-get-ya, Goy-kilt, Guoy-ne,
kill-gee-sklass, Hoya, and by other names, according to the shape
which he assumes.
* * * * *
The Creation of Man.
When the water which once covered the whole earth subsided, a raven
(Ne-kil-stlas) was the only creature surviving. In his loneliness he
started around the islands, seeking companionship, and when passing
Sand Spit Point heard very faint cries, which he soon discovered
proceeded from a cockle shell lying upon the beach. While examining it
with great wonder, the voices grew louder and loader, until finally
there issued therefrom several male [Footnote: As related by others
only one infant, and a female, was found in the cockle shell, whom,
marrying Ne-kil-etlas, became the great father of the Indian race.]
infant children, which rapidly increasing in stature joined him in a
common search for mates. Upon reaching the lonely island of Ninstints
they found females clinging helplessly to the rocks, whom rescuing and
taking for their wives, peopled the land.
* * * * *
Origin of Light--The Sun, Moon and Stars.
Ne-kil-stlas, soon discovering that light, fresh water, and many other
things which the people most needed were in possession of a powerful
chief called Setlin-ki-jash, and jealously guarded by him, resolved to
obtain them. Now this chief's daughter had a little babe, which, when
they all slept, Ne-kil-stlas killed, and taking the place of the
infant was fondly petted and cared for. When he found where the chief
kept the moon, he began to cry to see it, and continued so to do for a
long time, and until they opened the door into the apartment where the
moon was concealed, which seeing, Ne-kil-stlas instantly became a
raven and seizing it with his bill flew away to the Naas country. Here
the Indians gathered about him and begged to see the moon, of which
they had heard. Ne-kil-stlas agreed to let them see it if they would
give him all the oolachan fish which he desired, to which consenting,
he threw down the moon before them, which they in their wild delight
tossed so high in the air that it broke in pieces, and formed one part
the sun, another the moon, and the small fragments the stars.
* * * * *
Carvings.
The Hydas are distinguished for their superior skill, above that
possessed by any other aboriginal people on the continent, in carving
and mechanical arts and contrivances generally. Besides their great
columns, from 30 to 75 feet in height, covered with figures from top
to bottom, nearly every article used by them is carved to represent
either their totem crests, or some animal, bird or fish familiar to
their sight. House-posts, canoe-heads, stone axes, mauls and mortars,
fish-hooks and floats, seal-killing clubs, boxes of all kinds, cooking
and eating utensils, trays, spoons, ladles, medicine charms, masks,
rattles, whistles, gambling sticks, towes, and other articles, too
numerous to mention, are all carved. Their designs are often
grotesque, many evidently purposely so, and their workmanship commonly
rude compared with that of our best white carvers; yet their skill in
so curiously and accurately shaping some things, considering their few
and inferior tools and semi-savage state, is quite remarkable.
Desiring to possess some small article of Hyda manufacture, I gave a
young Indian jeweler a two-and-a-half dollar gold piece at 9 o'clock
in the morning with instructions to make from it an eagle. Before 1
o'clock the same day he brought me the bird so well made that not many
jewelers could improve upon it.
* * * * *
Food Supplies.
The Hydas live chiefly upon fish, though of late years they consume
also considerable quantities of other supplies, especially flour,
rice, sugar, coffee, crackers, &c., purchased from the traders. Of
fish, halibut and salmon, dried and smoked, are mainly depended on,
though many other varieties are eaten in their season--herring,
flounder, trout, rock cod, true cod, clams, mussels, &c. Pollock,
called by the Hydas skill, are caught off the west coast, principally
for their oil, which is extracted by boiling them in large wooden
tanks by means of heated stones. Dried herring spawn, salmon roe, sea
and birds' eggs, chitons and octopus are favorite articles of
diet. Berries and crabapples are gathered in large quantities and
eaten both fresh and dried, frequently mixed with oolachan grease,
their choicest condiment, obtained from the Nass Indians. Potatoes,
generally of an inferior size, are raised, chiefly by the old
women. Many wild roots, bulbs and plants are also eaten: the lily,
_epilobium_, _heracleum_, &c. Bear, wild geese, duck, and grouse also
contribute to their food supply, although the present generation of
Hydas are not very successful hunters, seldom penetrating far inland
in search of game.
* * * * *
Hyda Villages.
There are seven inhabited, and fifteen deserted villages upon the
islands, which will be briefly noticed in the order reached in
circumnavigating the archipelago from North Island, proceeding
eastward. They are situated upon the immediate shore, the houses
generally standing in a row facing to the south or east, with from one
to three tall carved poles in front. Kah-oh and Ki-oos-ta, both in
ruins, the former containing six houses and ten poles, and the latter
fifteen houses and eighteen poles, are situated near each other on the
south shore of Parry Passage, on Moresby Island. On the north side of
the Passage, on the south end of North Island, opposite Lucy Island,
lies Tadense, with its six small houses--still occupied by hunters and
fishermen during the summer--and one lonely carved pole. On the rocky,
exposed shore, just east of Klas-kwun Point, stands the three houses
and one carved pole comprising the village known at Yatze. It is now
only the occasional stopping place of parties of Indians en route to
and from the west coast. Its builders formerly occupied deserted Kung,
very pleasantly situated on the west shore, at the entrance to Naden
Harbor. Fifteen houses, all in ruins but two, and twenty poles, are
all that remain visible here, except numerous graves of the dead.
There are three villages near the entrance to Massett Inlet:
Yan--abandoned--with 20 houses and 25 carved poles, on the west side,
and Utte-was--now Massett--and Ka-Yung, situated about a mile below,
on the east. Massett is the principal village of the Hyda nation, now
containing a population of about three hundred and fifty Indians, 40
occupied houses, 50 carved poles, and the ruins of many ancient
lodges. The Hudson Bay Company have had a Trading Post here since
1855, Mr. Alexander McKenzie having been their agent for the last six
years. He is the extreme north-western resident white man on the soil
of the Dominion of Canada. The Episcopal Church of England established
a mission at Massett in 1877, now under the excellent charge of
Rev. Chas. Harrison and wife. At Ka-Yung we found only the ruins of a
few houses and carved poles; also at the mouth of the Hiellen, where
there was formerly a considerable village. A still larger one is said
to have stood at the base of Rose Spit Point, called by the Indians
Ne-coon, and another between this point and Cape Ball, on the the east
coast of Graham Island, the remains of which may still be seen.
We have now reached Skidegate, an imposing village, finely situated,
on the north shore of Skidegate Inlet, eight or ten miles from its
eastern entrance. It contains 30 houses and 55 carved poles. A
Methodist Mission, Church, and School building occupies a prominent
site in the back-ground. The village of Gold Harbour is situated upon
Maud Island, three miles further up the inlet. Its people, now
numbering 108, removed from Gold Harbour, on the west coast, a few
years ago. Here are 13 houses and 18 carved poles. Cumahewa, situated
on the north shore of the inlet of that name, contains 60 people, 18
houses and 25 carved poles, and Skedance, on the opposite, only 12
Indians, but 25 houses and 30 carved poles. Tanoo, or Laskeek, on
Tanoo Island, is next reached. It is second in population to Massett,
containing 150 natives, 20 houses and 25 carved poles. There is only
one more Hyda village to the southward, Ninstints, with 30
inhabitants, 20 houses, 25 carved poles, and 20 burial columns,
occupying a rock-bound islet lying off the south-west coast of Moresby
Island, near the western entrance to Houston Stewart Channel. There
are five other villages on the west coast of the islands, all
abandoned, and most of them in ruins. Tasso, on Tasso Harbour, Gold
Harbour, between Gold Harbour and Skidegate Channel, picturesque
Chathl, on Canoe Passage, near its western entrance, Lenna-how, on
Graham Island, opposite Nesto Island, Tiahn on Tiahn Cove, between
Stowe Harbour and Frederick Island, and Susk, on Graham, opposite the
latter. There are, besides these villages named, numerous houses and
temporary lodges, from one to seven in a place, situated at the mouths
of the principal salmon streams, near potato gardens, and convenient
to choice hunting and fishing grounds.
* * * * *