This loch, with soundings deeper than any in the German Ocean, has
come into notice in an especial manner, because it forms, in its
twenty-four miles, a large section of famous tourist route, the
Caledonian Canal. The loch is within a few miles of the handsome town
of Inverness; the river Ness, draining the loch, running through the
town to the Moray Firth after a short but lovely course over the
intervening distance. Between Loch Ness and the outlet there lies a
vast gravel peninsula, dividing the section known as Loch Dochfour
from the rest, the barricade thus formed being a safeguard to the town
against the enormous pressure of water that would otherwise flow out
in times of flood. As it is, the records of the town point to terrible
devastations from the Ness coming down in strength. The deep waters of
the loch get lashed into stormy waves by gusts of wind rushing down
from the surrounding glens, so that Loch Ness does not always present
the peaceful aspect of our view, as seen by the summer visitor. But we
will take it on such a day by preference, and can warrant to every one
who comes that the sail in the fine steamers plying on the loch and
canal will be redolent of joy and beauty and grandeur. We may conceive
that there is more comfort and ease in seeing Loch Ness than when, a
hundred and nine years ago Johnson and Boswell rode along its shores.
But the high terms in which Bozzy speaks of the scene are as fresh
to-day as then, for the road shaded with birch trees, the hills above
it, the 'sequestered and agreeably wild' scene, are as fitted to
engross attention as ever. We know also that they would see Castle
Urquhart, on its prominent peninsula, and would probably be struck by
the notable form of the hill called Mealfourvonie. They stopped at the
'General's Hut,' as indeed we all do, for the new hotel at Foyers is
built on its site, whence we take the road to visit the falls of that
name, as described elsewhere.
Fort Augustus, standing at the western end of the loch, is now a
Benedictine monastery and school. Built after the Jacobite rising in
1715, as part of the plan for holding the turbulent Highlanders in
subjection, it remained crown property for a century and a half, and
falling into disuse and neglect was then sold for its present purpose.
Although our view gives but a small section of the loch, our notice
may be directed to the other parts of the route that now yearly
carries thousands of tourists through the Glenmore-nan-Albin. There is
at Corpach the famous 'Neptune's staircase,' where eight locks bring
the boat from the outer loch to the canal level. Loch Lochy, ten miles
in length, forms the western portion. Then after two miles of canal
Loch Oich is reached, this sheet of water being four miles long. Then
another cut takes to Loch Ness, the whole distance, from the staircase
to Muirton lock on the east side being about fifty miles. The entire
route, barring the delay at the locks up and down, has all the charm
of one continuous voyage on an inland lake, the portions in canal
being almost indistinguishable except in width from the natural
channels. There is a constant variety and glory of scenery during the
day's sail, and nowhere can the traveller spend a holiday with more
delightful surroundings.