Justly termed the Queen of the Scottish Lochs, this magnificent sheet
of water presents an almost infinite variety of scenery. It has on the
eastern side one of Scotland's notable mountains, Ben Lomond, and
around are hills of lesser, though still great altitude, over which
the giant mountain towers as a monarch amidst his courtiers. There are
on the loch several excellent steamers, and as the distance from the
pier at Balloch to the landing place at Ardlui is upwards of twenty
miles, a day can be delightfully spent in going and returning, giving
the charms of Highland scenery without the ordinary fatigues of
travelling, and the delights of an excursion on a wide expanse of
water without the attendant risk of sea-sickness.
There are on the bosom of Loch Lomond several large islands, and many
small islets, adding greatly to the beauty and variety of its scenery.
Some of the islands are clad in oak; one is called Inchlonaig, or
yew-tree island; some display the silvery leafage of the birch, others
are covered with the hardier fir, and here again the element of
variety comes in to charm the sense. Our view shews the loch before it
has narrowed to the lesser channel between Inversnaid and Ardlui, and
before it has lost the charm of those wooded islands that beautify the
southern and wider part. The bulky form of Ben Lomond fills up the
scene, and the sun shining amidst clouds is significant of the varied
weather that may be encountered in one day. The wide reaches and more
lowland aspects of the southern end may be passed in all the enjoyment
of a noon-day summer sun, but ere the upper part of the loch is
reached clouds may gather, and a sudden torrent of rain or a sullen
blast of wind may overtake the voyager. But again, in an hour all is
peaceful and beautiful, and the rain has served to augment and enhance
the burns, rivulets, and streams, whose crystal waters feed the loch
from every shore. On several of the islands are ruins of old castles,
and all around the scene is redolent of memories of old feuds, violent
strifes, and fierce clan struggles. To-day all this is changed, and we
revel only in the grandeur and beauty of the scene. Those caves hide
no caterans to rob us, the cattle and sheep on hill or island are safe
from the foray, and the dwellers around pay no black mail to save
themselves from the attentions of stout and bare-legged ruffians.
At Rowardennan Inn are guides and ponies, and although the stalwart
man may dispense with the latter, it is not safe to attempt the ascent
of Ben Lomond without a guide familiar with the road, for sudden mists
may envelop the climber, and a mistake in the road may lead to death.
What is to be seen from the top? Rather ask what is not seen? Right
away to 'the back of the North Wind' stretch the innumerable hills. To
the west the mountain ranges of Argyleshire, to the south-west the
long peninsula of Cantyre, with the waters of the Atlantic seen
beyond; to the east the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh may be
picked out, to the south the busy Clyde, and in the foreground the
splendid loch itself. Ben Lomond stands as a sentinel or outer-guard
to the Highlands, and hence the range of view from it is of unusual
extent. All that is to be seen from it cannot be described, so rich,
so extensive, so varied are the prospects presented.
It is said that last century a visitor wrote some lines on a
window-pane at Tarbet Inn, on the ascent of Ben Lomond, and a few
words of his advice may fitly close our essay:--
Rest, oh! rest--long, long upon the top,
There 'hale the breezes, nor with toilsome haste
Down the rough slope thy youthful vigour waste.
So shall thy wondering sight at once survey,
Woods, lakes and mountains, valleys, rocks and sea,
Huge hills that heaped in crowded order stand,
Stretched o'er the western and the northern land.