WINTER AND WHISKEY IN SCOTLAND--RAIL AND STEAMER ALONGSIDE AT LEWISTON--HOW
"CIBOLA" GOT HER NAME--ON THE ROUTE--THE U.E. LOYALISTS ONGIARA ADDED.
After decisions had been made it still took some time for the arranging of
tenders and completion of contracts.
During this wait we whiled away the time by seeing football played in seas
of mud, and half lost in fogs, women by the thousands with heads uncovered
except when they pulled their shawls over them, and children innumerable
with feet entirely bare. Poor kiddies how they suffered when on one day
there was a fall of snow. Such snow, damp, heavy clots, which moistened as
they touched anything, exuding cold, and slobbering over the stone
pavements.
The children wrapped their red frosted feet with rags, or bits of carpet,
to keep them off the stones, while their elders hunched themselves together
and shivered. No wonder these people feared the snow and cold of Canada,
for they thought that if they felt such suffering in a temperature only
just at the freezing point, what must it be when the thermometer went below
zero.
Yet did they only know it, as many have since learned, the dry salt-like
winter snow of Canada is pleasant for the children to play in, and the
sensation of cold not to be measured by the figures on the thermometer. It
is the dampness which brings the suffering, which, needing to be met by
heat from within, inclines to the suggestion, expressed by some, that
whiskey is a natural beverage for Scotland. That it is a usual one I
learned in actual experience.
In our "steamboat samplings" we had made a trip through the "Kyles of Bute"
and to Tarbert, where we took carriage across the Mull of Cantire to the
outer sea. Stopping for lunch at a neat little inn about half way across.
The mid-day meal was being served in a large room with one long table down
the centre. At this all the company sat, one, apparently a commercial
traveller, occupying the seat at the head and doing the carving. A large
open fireplace with glowing fire gave comfort and pleasant radiance.
The one maid, a cheery looking young girl, did all the serving and was busy
in her attentions to the guests. When she had got them all served I asked
her, as she passed by, if she would please get me a cup of tea. Pausing for
a moment she gave me a searching look and then without speaking passed on.
A little while later I again caught her attention and suggesting that
perhaps she had not understood me, said that I would like to have a cup of
tea. Bending forward over me with a puckering of the forehead she said
abruptly, "Where do ye coom frae?" "From Canada," I answered.
"Dye ye hae tea 'i the noon in Canada?" "Yes," said I in my most pleasing
tone, "we have tea three times in the day in Canada--at morning, mid-day
and evening."
With a sniff she retorted, "Wull, y're no in Canada the noo, y're in
Scotland. Y' cannot hae tea i' the middle o' the day in Scotland--ye can
hae whiskey."
I didn't so I'm afraid Canada fell greatly in her estimation.
[Illustration: Sir Thomas Lipton on CHICORA. page 175]
[Illustration: H.R.H. the Duke and Duchess of York going on board CORONA.
page 183]
The contracts were at length completed and we hastened for home, taking the
Guion Line _Alaska_ as the fastest ship on the Atlantic. She held the
"record" for the then fastest passage, 6 days, 21 hours, 40 minutes from
Queenston to New York.
We had a frightful passage, during one 24 hours making only 52 miles. When
the captain of a first-class Atlantic liner enters on his log, as ours did
next day, "_dangerous sea_," one may feel satisfied that something unusual
had been going on.
Instead of not over eight days, as had been expected, we took twelve days,
much to the alarm of our families, and reached Toronto only three days
before Christmas.
So _Chicora_ and her successor had twice run the home-coming festival
pretty close.
In 1887 the services were opened by _Chicora_ alone, with Capt.
McCorquodale in command.
Construction of the new steamer was begun early in April in the yards of
the E. W. Rathbun Company, at Deseronto on the Bay of Quinte, there being
then no other shipyard on the shores of Lake Ontario. The facilities here
were excellent, in convenience of access by rail to the waterside, and in
complete iron and wood-working factories for the cabin construction.
The hull was erected by W. C. White, of Montreal, who also had built the
steamer _Filgate_, and the wood-work done by ourselves and the Rathbuns
under the charge of our foreman carpenter, Mr. J. Whalen.
The engines arrived in good shape and were erected in the hull by Rankin,
Blackmore & Co., who sent out men for this purpose.
The cabin work was being made in sections in the workshops, so that it
could be erected as soon as the decks were ready.
In the early part of the season of 1887 the New York Central completed the
extension of its tracks to the shore line at Lewiston, just above the
steamer dock. The relief to the traffic was welcome and immediate. The
passengers were saved the weary jolting for the mile and a half transfer
through enveloping dust, or of red bespattering mud, according to the
varying conditions of the weather, and the through time between Niagara
Falls and the steamer was also much shortened.
Ever since the branch railway had emerged from the Gorge this trial of
temper and nerves had continued just in the same state as it had when
Lewiston was the focus centre for the quickest routes to Rochester,
Ogdensburgh, and to Albany and New York, via Lake Champlain, and the only
route to Toronto, Kingston and Montreal.
At length, after a meritorious service of so many years, their duty being
over, the lumbering old Transfer Coaches, which looked as though they had
never felt another coat of paint since their first, were consigned to the
retirement of broken bottles and old tins. No traces of them are now to be
found. There are, however, some notable memorials still left in the old
town of its earliest days of tourist and travel activities.
On the old road between Lewiston and the dock, once traversed by the
transfer coaches, and part of the main road from Bataira when the village
was known as "Lewis-Town," is the "Frontier House," built in 1825, and for
many years considered the "finest hotel west of Albany." It was once the
stopping place of many early celebrities, and with its broad stoop and
great pillars is still a very prominent building. The residence of Captain
Van Cleve, one of the earliest navigators on the lakes, and who sailed
from the port on the _Martha Ogden_, is on the hillside not far from the
present terminus of the railway.
At last the railway and the steamers had been brought alongside. This
facility of interchange, and the shortening of the schedule time much
improved the volume of traffic in both directions and a start was made
which indicated that, when made more fully known to the general public,
would justify the expenditures being made by both the railway and the
steamer interests.
A new era was being opened for the Niagara River route. We had brought
about the first steps, had taken part in the bringing of the railways and
the river together, and now were to add the new steamer.
Consideration of what should be the name of the new addition was much
occupying the attention not only of ourselves but of many others.
It was conceded that the name must begin with a "C," and end with "A," and
not exceeding eight letters in length, so that proper balance in
advertising display might be preserved. A good deal of public interest was
taken in the matter and many names suggested.
A number of these were selected, and a somewhat novel method adopted for
coming to the final decision.
The members, both male and female, of the two families interested in the
company, were invited by Hon. Frank Smith, to dine at "Rivermount," his
residence on Bloor street. We sat down about twenty-five in number, being
all the adult members of the Frank Smith, Foy and Cumberland connections,
and at a splendid repast good fortune to the new steamer was heartily
toasted.
I had had some twenty posters printed in the same size and wording as we
then used for street advertising purposes. On each of these was displayed
the name _Chicora_ together with one of the new names which had been
suggested. These posters were then set in a line along one side of the
spacious hall, so that the exact effect of the contiguity of the two names
could be seen.
After dinner a sort of Dutch auction was held. The adherents of each name
stated the reasons for their preference, promoting some amusing discussion.
Each of the posters was then voted on in succession and with varying
majorities ordered down until finally the one with _Chicora_ and _Cibola_
gained the preference.
There would seem good reason for this selection, for in addition to the
suitability in appearance and emphony of the two names, a very interesting
historical connection between them had been unearthed in the archives and
annals in the beginning of Spanish-American history, after following up the
exploits of Pizzaro in South America.
The early Spaniards had made a foothold in the island of Cuba.
Ponce-de-Leon had visited the shores of Florida, but it was not until 1539
that Hermando-de-Soto, heading an expedition from the Island, established
the first permanent occupation upon the mainland for the Spanish nation.
A settlement was formed and a fortress built at Ste. Augustine. Spanish
influence thereafter gradually extended around the northern shores of the
Gulf of Mexico toward the Mississippi and inland through the intervening
Indian country which was then called the _Chicora Country_--"_The land of
pretty flowers_."
Beyond this and on the other side of the far shores of the Mississippi lay
the widespread grazing territories where the Spanish adventurers conceived
would be opportunity for further exploits.
Somewhere about the year 1580 a coterie of these venturesome ones carried
over with them to Spain a party of the native Indians including among them
the principal Chief of the Chicora Indians, the occupants of the country
between Florida and the river. These they presented at their sovereign's
court as visible evidences of their travellings and enterprises.
In those early days of discovery on this Western hemisphere, and for long
years afterwards, it is noticeable in how lordly a manner the Sovereigns
and Magnates of Europe parcelled out the new found territories, making
wholesale grants of land to their own followers with or out the leave of
the original Indian occupants. In this case the representative Chief was
present. The King created him "Don Francisco de Chicora," and a grant was
confirmed to his introducers of all the country lying adjacent to the Gulf
of Mexico, on the far side of the Mississippi.
Returning with this authority the Spaniards extended their enterprises to
their new opportunities. As they advanced westward they found on the
terraces of the great plains, and on the foothills of the mountain ranges,
the countless "Cibolos," or Buffalo, ranging in mighty bands over the
nature pastures.
It was in consequence of this that when giving a name to the new Province
which was being added to their previous domain, they named it "_Cibola_,"
"the Buffalo coun_try_." This name is still preserved by a ranching hamlet
in a part of that territory now in the State of Texas.
As another steamer was to be added in partnership with _Chicora_ "the
pretty flower," what more appropriate name could we give to her than that
of "Cibola," "the Buffalo," in reminiscence of the old time territorial
expansion.
So _Cibola_ it was to be. There was also a further propriety in the
selection that this "Buffalo boat" was to be one of the line of steamers
which were to form the greatly improved connection between Toronto, and the
great and modern city of Buffalo.
On 1st of November the steamer was successfully launched in the presence of
a large party brought down by special train from Toronto, the name _Cibola_
being given, and the traditional bottle of champagne smashingly broken on
the bow, by Miss Constance Cumberland, the youngest sister of the
Vice-President, and who subsequently married Mr. A. Foy, a brother of the
Manager.
The firms engaged on the construction were:--Designer, Robert Morton,
Glasgow; steel hull, Dalzell Co., Dalzell, Scotland; erection of hull, W.
White & Co., Montreal; marine engines, Rankin Blackmore & Co., Greenock;
wood-work, Rathbun Co., Deseronto; interior mahogany and decoration, Wm.
Wright & Co., Detroit; electric lighting, Edison Co., New York.
The _Chicora_ season of 1887 had been exceedingly active. The opening of
the New York Central to the bank of the river largely increased the
facilities and the movement of traffic.
The steamer _Hastings_ was chartered to make the early trips from Niagara
and late from Toronto, and to carry the increasing fruit business. We had
acquired the rights of the International Ferry between Queenston and
Lewiston and chartered the small steamer _Kathleen_ to perform the service
and to transfer passengers to the main line steamers.
A new excursion feature in connection with the extension of their line was
introduced by the New York Central by "shuttle trains" with _observation
cars_ run frequently between the Falls and Lewiston. These cars were open
on the side next the river and the passenger seats set length-wise, facing
the view, were raised in tiers one above the other, securing an unimpeded
view of the scenery of the wonderful rapids and Niagara Gorge.
The Kathleen ran in connection with these trains, giving the tourists the
full length of the Lower River to Niagara and also calling at Youngstown
for the Fort and Town passengers.
Business at Queenston, where we had improved the dock, was much increased,
due to our working up the excursions which were rendered more attractive by
the great improvements made by the Queen Victoria Niagara Park
Commissioners in the park upon the Queenston Heights and around Brock's
Monument.
An excellent season closed without further incident.
During the winter of 1887-88 the cabin work had proceeded assiduously on
_Cibola_. During this period we came much into personal contact with Mr. E.
W. Rathbun, the head of the Rathbun Co., and, one might say, the physical
embodiment of Deseronto and of everything within its borders. In the prime
of life, genial, incisive, he was the focus centre of vibrant energies.
It seemed to be his ambition that no by-product in his enterprises should
escape undeveloped.
He was interested in every public and benevolent project in the vicinity
and although not himself entering into parliamentary duties, his opinion
was much sought and valued in political development. With intense devotion
to his work, and much continuous strain on his energies it was not to be
wondered that his years were not many.
At length the spring of 1888 had come. The work was well advanced but, as
usual, the carpenters and painters lingered on in possession.
_Chicora_ had opened the season and it was absolutely necessary that
_Cibola_ should be on hand to take part in moving the troops to Niagara
Camp on 10th June.
The only thing to do was to bring the whole working force away with the
steamer. Capt. McCorquodale was in command, Capt. McGiffin having been
appointed to the _Chicora_.
A small party of friends had come down for the trip up, among them Alderman
John Baxter, of Toronto a genial soul, whose girth was not far from
equalling his height, he was the very embodiment of merriment and was a
most excellent singer. As the most elderly member we dubbed him The
Chaplain, although perhaps he was not the most sedate. Mr. Ross Hayter, a
Tea Planter cousin, lately Come from Assam, and who was the first to
introduce Indian package tea to Canada, was installed as the Doctor, and
Mr. Gus Foy, brother of Mr. John Foy, ably acted as Steward.
We left in the morning with the decks encumbered by every description of
material for all trades.
As each rounded point, and changing turn of this island-studded channel
came in view one could not but recall that along these waters once came
from Montreal, and Cataraqui, the fleet of canoes carrying the families of
the Six Nations Indians to the new homes, which had been given them by the
British Government, to replace those in the State of New York, which they
had lost by their loyal adherence to the King's cause during the War of the
Revolution. One party under Chief Deseronto had determined to stop at a
reservation which had been selected on the shores of the Bay of Quinte.
Before leaving _Cataraqui_, the communion service which had been given to
their ancestors by Queen Anne in 1712, for their chapel in the Mohawk
Valley in the Colony of New York, had been divided between the bands, the
larger share being given to the more numerous party under Chief Brant,
which separating from their Deseronto companions went onward up Lake
Ontario to their reservation upon the banks of the Grand River.
[Illustration: The CHIPPEWA in Toronto Harbour. page 174]
These reservations are still occupied by their descendants, who are ardent
militia men, serving with intense activity in the Indian companies of the
37th Haldimand Rifles, one of the most efficient in the Canadian Militia.
All Canadians, should remember that these quiet featured men are the lineal
descendants of those steadfast ancestors, who gave up their homes and all
for the British cause, and were the first United Empire Loyalists to come
to Canada.
Later after 1783, other migrations came up these inner channels.
These were the United Empire Loyalists, descendants of the British pioneers
and settlers who had founded the English colonies in America, but who
having fought on the King's side in the Revolution were driven out of their
homes and their property confiscated, but who chose, rather than foreswear
their allegiance, to come north into the forests of Canada where they could
live beneath the British flag under which they and their fathers had been
born.
It was a meeting, too, with the first steamboat ventures of Upper Canada,
for on "Finkle's Point," which we passed, the _Frontenac_, the first
steamer to sail on Lake Ontario, had been built in 1815.
_Chicora_ and _Cibola_ together carried the troops to camp and performed
the services of the route for 1888. The leaving times from Toronto were 7
a.m., 11 a.m., 2 p.m., 4.45 p.m., the _Chicora_ taking the morning trip
from Lewiston.
This was a very considerable increase, being in fact a doubling of the
previous service, and although the traffic did not at first justify it, the
trade soon began to show signs of building up, the new steamer proving
herself a valuable addition by her higher speed, larger capacity for
passengers and with running expenses practically the same.
The arrangements for the militia at the camp at Niagara in these early days
were in the charge of Lt.-Col. Robert Denison, one of the Denison family,
who have taken so large a part in the military annals of the country, and
an uncle of Lt.-Col. George T. Denison.
Col. "Bob" as he was most frequently called, was the Brigade Major for the
Western District with his headquarters in the "_Old Fort_" at Toronto in
the original "Officers Quarters" building which had been military
headquarters for the Province since 1813. This old building is still in
existence and is to be preserved as part of the restoration of the Old
Fort.
Unconventional and breezy in his ways, he used, referring to the fact that
he had entirely lost one eye, to say that he "had a single eye to Her
Majesty's Service," and sitting straddled, as was his habit, on a
four-legged saddle shaped sort of seat that "he was always in the saddle,
ready for a call to action."
In 1889 _Cibola_ and _Chicora_, continued their usual services with
satisfaction and regularity.
The Observation Train service of the New York Central Railway increased
much in importance as also the transfer between Lewiston and Queenston. A
smart little steamer was purchased to specially fill these services.
Following our habit we searched for some name which would be appropriate to
the conditions.
The "Relations des Jesuits" are the reports sent back to France between
1616 and 1672 by the devoted Jesuit priests who had come over in the early
French Regime and worked among the Indians for their Christianization. Much
information is given in these conditions among the tribes, and concerning
the geography of the country.
One of these, _Pere Lallement_, reports that in 1642 an "_Onguiaara_" tribe
of Indians were living between the two lower lakes on a river bearing the
same name as the tribe. Later on the Great Falls on this river are
mentioned as the "_Ongiara Cataractes_." This name of _Ongiara_, which was
the earliest by which the river was known among the Indians, has since been
transmuted by the whites into its present name Niagara.
We therefore named the little steamer _Ongiara_ as being appropriate to the
history of her surroundings, and to her duties between the original portage
routes of Indian and historic periods at the landings at Lewiston and
Queenston.