ON THE UPPER LAKES WITH THE WOLSELEY EXPEDITION AND LORD DUFFERIN.
The way having been opened by the _Algoma_ between Georgian Bay and the
Sault, with sundry extra trips beyond, N. Milloy & Co., of Niagara, brought
up from Halifax, in 1868, the even then celebrated steamer _Chicora_ to
increase the service to Lake Superior. No finer steamer was there on the
Upper Lakes than the _Chicora_, and none whether American or Canadian, that
could approach her in speed; she could trail out a tow line to any
competitor. She had arrived opportunely and had greatly increased her
renown by carrying the Wolseley Expedition, in 1870, from Collingwood to
the place on the shores of the Thunder Bay where the expedition for the
suppression of the Riel Rebellion at Fort Garry was landed.
It was in the arrangements for the movement of this Wolseley Expedition
that some difficulties arose which were due to a want of harmony between
the local government of the State and that of the National Cabinet of the
Federal Government at Washington, a condition which is liable to occur at
any time under the peculiar provisions of the American Constitution.
Having been compiled in the time of stress for the avoidance of an
autocracy and for the development of the individual rights of the several
component States, the relations between States and Federal authority were
strongly drawn. While in the Canadian Constitution any power which has not
been specifically allotted to the Provinces remains in the Dominion
Government, which is thus the centre of all power, in the United States the
reverse condition exists.
Speedy dealings with foreign nations are thus somewhat hampered on the part
of the United States Federal Government.
The only canal lock at that time at the Sault by which the rapids of the
Sault River could be overcome and the level of Lake Superior be reached
from that of Lake Huron, was on the Michigan side, and owned and controlled
by the State of Michigan. As an armed force could not be sent by rail
through the United States, it was necessary that all supplies and the men
of the Canadian forces for Fort Garry should be forwarded by this water
route to the head of Lake Superior, from where they were to take the
"Dawson Route" of mixed road and river transit to Lake Winnipeg and the
scene of action. A cargo of boats, wagons, and general supplies for use by
the troops had been sent up by the "Chicora" (Captain McLean), leaving
Collingwood on the 7th May, but the steamer was not permitted by the
Michigan authorities to pass through the Sault Canal. Owing to this action
immediate steps were imperatively necessary, pending negotiations, to
obtain additional tonnage to carry forward the expedition.
Col. Cumberland, A.D.C., M.P.P., was sent on a secret duty to Detroit,
where he succeeded in chartering the American steamer _Brooklyn_, which was
at once sent off with instructions to report for orders above the canal at
Point Aux Pins, to Col. Bolton, R.A., Deputy Adjutant General. Being passed
up the canal, without obstacle, the difficulty was immediately relieved.
Fortunately the "Algoma" was at the upper end of the route and on Lake
Superior. The supplies and stores were accordingly unloaded from the
_Chicora_ at the Canadian Sault, portaged across by the twelve miles road
to the wharf at Point Aux Pins, on the Canadian side above the Rapids, and
sent on up Lake Superior by the "Algoma," and "Brooklyn."
A similar course was obliged to be adopted with the cargoes of supplies for
the expedition brought up on the Canadian steam barge _Shickluna_, and on
the schooners _Orion_ and _Pandora_ towed by her.
This was in other ways a remarkable event, as being one in which the
"Coasting Laws of Canada" were for a time, cancelled by the action of a
citizen. The "Brooklyn" being an American boat could not legally carry
cargo between two Canadian ports, such as Point Aux Pins and the Landing,
so Col. Cumberland gave Captain Davis a letter[1] to Mr. Joseph Wilson, the
Collector of Customs at the Canadian Sault, authorizing him to permit the
American vessel to trade between Canadian ports. As Mr. Cumberland was
member of Parliament for the district, the local authorities gave immediate
attention, especially as everyone on the Canadian side was ready to run all
risks and do everything in their power to help the expedition along.
Returning to Collingwood the "Chicora" left again on the 14th May with two
companies of the Ontario Contingest recruited from the Volunteer Militia of
the Province, twenty-four horses and more arms and stores. Refusal was
again given and the same portaging took place as before, the men during the
transfer being encamped near the old Hudson's Bay Fort. Urgent
representations had been made to the local State authorities, pointing out
that the expedition was pressed for time, much loss might be occasioned,
and the rebellion spread if the troops were delayed. The British Minister
at Washington was using every endeavor to obtain the necessary permission,
but without avail. The "Chicora" returned to Collingwood and left again on
21st May with Col. Garnet Wolseley (afterwards Viscount Wolseley), a
detachment of the "60th Rifles" of the Regulars (the Regiment of H.R.H.
Prince Arthur) and the balance of the expedition. In the absence of the
expected permission the same procedure was again followed, and when
everything on board had been unloaded the _Chicora_ was passed empty
through the canal, and reloading the soldiers and all the equipment at the
Point aux Pins proceeded up the lake to her destination.
Canada has since then, for her self control and the protection of her
trade, built a great canal on her own side, through which ever since it was
constructed the United States vessels have been freely allowed to pass upon
exactly the same terms as her own.
Navigation upon the Upper Lakes was in those years in the most primitive
condition.
When the "Chicora" landed the Wolseley Expedition at Prince Arthur's
Landing there was no wharf large enough for her to be moored to, so she
had to anchor off the shore, and the men and cargo were landed in small
boats.
As Col. Wolseley came ashore in a rowboat he was met by Mr. Thomas Marks, a
principal merchant, and Mr. William Murdock, C.E., who was then in conduct
of the Government Railway Exploration Surveys from the shores of Thunder
Bay to Fort Garry for what afterwards became the Canadian Pacific Railway.
The Colonel, finding on enquiry that the place had no particular name
beyond that of "The Landing," proposed that it should be called "Prince
Arthur's Landing." This was to be in honour of Prince Arthur, Duke of
Connaught, who was then serving in his battalion of the Rifle Brigade at
that time stationed in Montreal. The name was immediately adopted and was
kept unchanged until 1883, when, to mark the eastern end of the Canadian
Pacific and to correspond with "Port Moody," the then accepted terminus at
the western end, it was changed to "Port Arthur." The name and reminiscence
of the Royal Prince is in this way still happily retained.
Rivalries had begun between the long established hamlet clustered around
Fort William, the ancient post of the Hudson Bay Company on the banks at
the mouth of the Kanistiqua River, and the newly created village on the
shores of the Lake at the "Landing." To appease the vociferous claimants of
both, the expedition was divided, one part being sent up by the lower river
from "Fort William," the other by waggon on land from the "Landing," to
join together again at a point on the Kaministiquia above the Falls, from
where they proceeded together by the mixed transport of water and waggon on
the "Dawson Route" to Fort Garry.
There were then few lighthouses on the lakes, and no buoys in the channels.
When a steamer left the shores of Georgian Bay nothing was heard of her
until she came in sight again on her return after being away ten days, for
there were no telegraphs on the North Shore nor even at the Sault.
The hamlets were few and far spread, being mainly small fishing villages.
Bruce Mines with its copper mines, then in full operation, was perhaps the
most important place, with a population of 2,500. The Sault had perhaps
500, Silver Islet, with its mysterious silver mine, 1,500, and Prince
Arthur's Landing about 200 residents, with whatever importance was given by
its position at the head of the lake, and as being the starting place of
the Dawson Road to Fort Garry, and the supply point for the developing
mines of the interior.
Whatever meat, flour, or vegetable foods the people ate had to be carried
up to them from the Ontario ports. Westwards the decks were filled with
cattle, hogs, and all kinds of merchandise, but there was little freight to
bring back east except fish and some small quantities of highly
concentrated ores from the mines.
The business had not developed as had been expected, and the "Chicora" was
found to be too good for the Lake Superior route as it then existed. Her
freight-carrying capacity was light, cabin accommodation in excess of
requirements, and her speed and expenses far beyond what was there needed.
So the boat had to be withdrawn from service, dismantled, and laid up
alongside the docks at Collingwood in the season of 1873.
One splendid and closing charter there had been in the season of 1874, when
the "Chicora" was chartered for the months of July and August to be a
special yacht for the progress of the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin, and
his suite, through what were then the northern districts of Ontario and
through the Upper Lakes.
Col. F. W. Cumberland, M.P., General Manager of the Northern Railway, was
also Provincial Aide-de-Camp to the Governor-General and thus in general
charge of the arrangements for the tour, particularly on the Northern
Railway, through whose districts the party was then travelling. The further
portions of the tour were through the district of Algoma, comprising all
the country along the north shores of Lakes Huron and Superior, which Col.
Cumberland then represented in the Provincial Parliament, being the first
Member for Algoma.
Washago, at the first crossing of the Severn River, was then the "head of
the track" of the "Muskoka Branch," which was under construction from
Barrie. Beyond this point the party were to proceed through the byways and
villages of Muskoka by mixed conveyance of boats on the lakes and carriages
over the bush roads to Parry Sound, where they were to join the "Chicora."
Every minute of the way had been carefully planned out to satisfactorily
arrange for the reception en route, stopping places for meals and rest,
stays over night, and allowance for all possible contingencies, for the
Governor-General insisted that he should make his arrival, at each place on
the way, with royal precision.
There was therefore no room for the insertion of the many special demands
for additional functions and time, which increasingly arose as the days
drew near, for the fervor of the welcome became tumultuous.
The Presbyterian clergyman at Washago had been particularly insistent and
had called to his aid every local influence of shipper and politician to
obtain consent that the Governor-General should lay the corner-stone of
the new church which the adherents of the "Auld Kirk" were erecting at the
village. The ceremony was whittled down until it was at last agreed that it
should be sandwiched into the arrangements on condition that everything
should be in readiness, and that the proceedings should not exceed fifteen
minutes, for there was a long and rocky drive ahead of fourteen miles to
Gravenhurst, where an important afternoon gathering from all the
countryside and a reception by His Excellency and the Countess of Dufferin
had been arranged.
The Municipal and the local Society receptions at the Washage station had
been safely got through when the Governor and party walked over the granite
knolls to where the church was to be erected. The location of the village,
which is situated between two arms of the Muskoka River, is on the
unrelieved outcrop of the Muskoka granite, which, scarred and rounded by
the glacier action of geological ages, is everywhere in evidence.
On the knoll, more level than the others, was the church party expectant.
At their feet, perched upon a little cemented foundation about a foot and a
half in diameter, built on the solid granite, was the "corner stone," a
cube of granite some three inches square. A miniature silver trowel, little
larger than a teaspoon, was handed to the Governor, who, holding it in his
fingers smoothed down the morsel of mortar and the corner stone was duly
laid.
The Minister then announced "Let us engage in prayer," and raising his
hands and closing his eyes he at once began.
It was a burning hot noon-day in July. Having got fairly started the
minister seemed to be in no way disposed to stop. At five minutes a chair
and umbrella were brought for Lady Dufferin. At ten minutes motions were
made to pluck the minister's coat tails, but no one dared. The fervid
appeal covering all possible contingencies, and meandering into varied "We
give Thee thanks also" still continued so the Governor and Lady Dufferin
and their Suite quietly slipped away from the group and going to the
carriages, which were waiting in readiness near by, drove away.
Shortly afterwards the minister ceased and, opening his eyes, took in the
situation.
He at least had succeeded in having his corner-stone laid by a
Governor-General and was satisfied, even though he had lost that portion of
his audience. There were others also who were satisfied as one of the
devout congregation who said as we walked away, "Wasn't the Meenester
powerful in prayer?"
Lord Dufferin's private secretary and myself, having seen our duties to
this point satisfactorily completed, returned to the cars and proceeded
back by the special train to Collingwood, where the outfit and arrangements
of the "Chicora" for the long cruise were being completed, and active
operations had for some time been going on.
The ship was a picture, resplendent in brightened brasses, new paint and
decorations. The staterooms had been re-arranged and enlarged so that they
could be used in suites with separate dining and reception rooms arranged
for various occasions. Strings of flags of all varieties, and ensigns for
every occasion were provided, including His Excellency the
Governor-General's special flag, to be raised the moment he came on board.
Captain James C. Orr, his officers, and the picked crew were all in naval
uniform, and naval discipline was to be maintained.
About ten o'clock one night we sailed out of Collingwood to make an easy
night run across the Georgian Bay and arrive in the morning at Parry Sound,
where the Governor-General was to join the steamer in the afternoon.
We were naturally anxious that nothing should occur on our part to mar the
arrangements for the much heralded tour, and so I turned out early in the
morning, called up by some indistinct premonition. Of all the evils that
can befall a ship's captain it is that of a too supreme confidence in his
own powers; a confidence which leads him to take unnecessary risks and so
incur dangers which a little longer waiting would avoid. Of this we now met
a most striking instance.
There are two routes from Collingwood to Parry Sound. The outer passage,
outside the islands, longer but through open lake and safe, the other the
inner passage winding through an archipelago of islands, tortuous and
narrow. This latter was also known as the "Waubuno Channel," from its being
the route of the steamer of that name, a vessel of 140 feet and the largest
passing through it. As a scenic route for tourists it is unsurpassable,
threading its way amid many islands with abrupt and thrilling turns.
Captain McNab, one of the most experienced and oldest navigators of the
Upper Lakes, had been engaged as pilot for the tour of the "Chicora."
In the early morning, instead of being as had been expected, out in the
open lake, we were heading into a bay with the shore line expanding far on
each side both east and west.
[Illustration: The ALGOMA. 1862.
The 2nd CITY OF TORONTO. 1840. Rebuilt. page 44]
[Illustration: The 3rd CITY OF TORONTO. 1864.
From an old drawing. page 123]
Going forward, Captain McNab, in reply to questions, said he intended going
through the Waubuno Channel, and admitted that he had never taken a boat as
large as the "Chicora" through the channel, but was sure he could. Amiable
suggestions that he might like to bet $10,000 that he could, being promptly
declined, he accepted instructions and the steamer was at once turned
around to go by the outer channel for which there was plenty of time. He
might have done it, but there was a doubt in it, and supposing he had not,
what then? It is better for a captain to be sure, than to be sorry.
The tour was a great success. Wherever the bonnie boat went, whether in
Canadian waters around the northern shores of Lakes Huron and Superior at
Sault Ste. Marie, Nepigon, Prince Arthur's Landing, or in American waters,
at Mackinac, Lake Michigan and Chicago, her trim appearance, beautiful
lines, and easy speed, won continued admiration.
FOOTNOTES:
[1]
Detroit, 18th May, 1870.
Sir:
The Steamer _Brooklyn_ proceeds to Point Aux Pins on special service.
In case you may not have been advised by the head of your department, I am
authorised to inform you that she is to have free access to all Canadian
Ports on Lake Superior, moving under orders from Col. Bolton.
I am, etc.,
(Signed) F. W. CUMBERLAND.
Jos. Wilson, Collector of Customs,
Saulte Ste Marie, Ont.