PRESERVES AND PICKLES.
Quality of the Fruit.
IT is a waste of time and strength to preserve unripe, over-ripe or
inferior fruits. One should select sound, ripe, well flavored fruits for
this purpose.
What to do with Fruit Pulp.
When making jellies with crab apples, quinces, peaches, etc., there is
always a great deal of pulp left. The thrifty housekeeper does not like
to throw this away, although all the fine flavor of the fruit has been
extracted with the juice. If fruit be plentiful and cheap, it will be
economy to throw this impoverished pulp away; if, on the other hand,
fruit be high and scarce, add some fresh fruit, sugar, and water to the
cooked pulp, and boil until a smooth marmalade is formed.
Cooked quince may be combined with fresh tart apples, sugar, and a
little water. While the mixture is hot, can it, and it will be found
good for pies and other uses when the fresh fruit is scarce.
Preserved Peaches.
The peaches should be sound and ripe. Weigh the fruit, and for every
nine pounds make a syrup with three pounds of sugar and one pint of
water; skimming the syrup as soon as it boils up.
Have ready a kettle of boiling water and a bowl of cold water. Fill a
wire basket with peaches and plunge into the boiling water for two
minutes. Lift the basket from the water and turn the peaches into a
bowl. Pare them, and drop them into the cold water. This is to preserve
the color.
Drop the peaches, a few at a time, into the boiling syrup. Cook them
until they are heated through, and are tender; then put in a hot jar as
many as will go in without crowding, and fill up with syrup. Cover the
jar at once.
If many peaches are to be preserved it is best to make the syrup in
several lots, as otherwise the long cooking, together with the fruit
juice, will make it dark.
Preserved Pears.
Make a syrup like that for the peaches, allowing one quart of water to
three pounds of sugar and nine pounds of pears.
Pare the pears with a silver knife and drop them in a bowl of cold water
to preserve the color. On taking them from the water drop them into the
boiling syrup. Cook them gently until they can be easily pierced with a
silver fork. The time depends upon the ripeness of the fruit. The pears
may be preserved whole or in halves. Put the cooked fruit into hot jars,
and, after filling up with boiling syrup, seal.
Crab Apples.
Make the syrup as for peaches; allowing, however, half a pound of sugar
to a pound of fruit. Clean the blossom end of the apples by rubbing, and
drop them into water. Wash and drain them. Drop them, a few at a time,
into the hot syrup, and cook until they can be pierced with a silver
fork. Fill the jars with the fruit, and, after filling up with hot
syrup, seal the jars.
The stems are left on crab apples.
Preserved Plums.
Make the syrup for the large white plums the same as for crab apples.
Peel the plums by plunging in boiling water, like peaches. Cook and
finish the same as crab apples.
Preserved Damson Plums.
These are preserved the same as the white plums, except that they are
not peeled. They will cook in about three minutes.
Grape Preserve.
This preserve should be made with a tender-skinned grape. The Concord
grape is too tough-skinned to make a satisfactory preserve.
Squeeze the pulp out of the skin, and, after putting it in the
preserving kettle, set on the fire. Stir frequently, and cook until the
pulp will break up readily. This will require only a few minutes’
boiling. Rub the pulp through a sieve, rejecting the seeds. Measure the
skins and pulp, and put them in the preserving kettle. For every quart
of the fruit add one pint and a half of sugar, and one gill of water.
Cook for twenty minutes after the preserve begins to boil; then put in
jars and seal. If you choose, use less sugar; or, if you prefer to have
the preserve sweeter, allow a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit.
Preserved Quinces.
Have a kettle of boiling water on the fire. Pare the fruit and remove
the cores; then weigh it. Drop the pared fruit into the boiling water,
and cook gently until so tender that it can be pierced with a straw.
Take it from the water and drain it. Make a syrup the same as for
peaches, and put the cooked fruit into it. Simmer for about half an
hour; then put up in jars. This amount of sugar—one pound to three
pounds of fruit—makes a fairly rich preserve. Less may be used if one
prefer to have the quinces less rich.
Preserved Pineapple.
Pare the pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut the fruit into thin slices,
cutting down the sides until the heart is reached. Weigh the sliced
fruit and put it in a bowl, with half a pound of granulated sugar to
every pound of fruit. Mix the fruit and sugar well, and put it in a cold
place over night. In the morning put the fruit and sugar in the
preserving kettle, and place on the range. When the syrup begins to
boil, skim carefully; then fill the hot jars with the preserve and seal
them.
The pineapple may be shredded with a silver fork, instead of being
sliced. Be careful to keep out all the woody fibres of the heart of the
fruit.
Preserved Uncooked Pineapple.
Pare the pineapple and take out all the eyes. With a sharp knife, cut
the fruit in thin slices, cutting down the sides until the heart is
reached (this is to be discarded). Weigh the sliced pineapple and put it
in an earthen dish. Add to it as many pounds of granulated sugar as
there are pounds of fruit. Stir this gently; then pack the fruit and
sugar in pint jars, leaving space for two tablespoonfuls of Jamaica rum
in each jar. Add the liquor; then put on the covers and tighten them.
Set away in a cool, dark place.
Wine or brandy may be substituted for the rum; or, the jars may be
packed solidly to the top, and sealed, without using any spirit. This
fruit will keep well, and is so tender that it will melt in the mouth.
It is, of course, very rich.
Sun Cooked Strawberries.
Pick over the berries and weigh them; then put them in the preserving
kettle. Add to them as many pounds of granulated sugar as there are of
strawberries. Do not have the fruit and sugar more than three or four
inches deep in the preserving kettle. Place on the fire and heat slowly
to the boiling point. Let the preserve cook for just ten minutes from
the time it begins to boil, skimming well. Take up and pour into meat
platters, having the preserve not much more than an inch and a half
deep. Set the platters on tables at sunny windows. They should stand in
the sun for twenty-four full hours. If the sun does not shine one day,
let the fruit remain until it does. Put up cold in preserve jars. This
preserve is perfect.
CANNING FRUITS.
The destruction of germs and the exclusion of air are the principles
upon which canning is based. The article to be preserved is cooked for a
short time, and then put in jars from which the air has been expelled by
heating them to the boiling point. They are then sealed, and when cold
are set in a cool, dark place. If all the conditions be right, the fruit
will keep for an unlimited number of years, and when opened will be
found to have nearly all the freshness and aroma of newly gathered
fruit.
Now this is true of the majority of fruits, but not of all. The
strawberry subjected to this process will come out a pale, spongy,
insipid thing, whereas the raspberry seems to have its color, flavor,
and odor intensified. If, however, a generous amount of sugar be added
to the strawberry in the cooking, the fruit will retain its shape,
color, and flavor. It is an error to attempt to can this berry without
sugar, or with only a small amount.
Filling the Jars.
To fill the jars, have on the stove two pans partially filled with
water. Let the water in one be boiling, but in the other not so hot that
the hand cannot be held in it with comfort. Put a few jars and covers in
the cooler water, turning them now and then until all parts become warm;
then put them in the boiling water. This does away with all danger of
breaking. When the jars have been heated in boiling water, drain, fill,
and seal them one at a time.
In filling the jars be sure that they stand level, that the syrup has
filled all the interstices between the fruit, and that it also runs over
the top of the jars. Even with this overflowing of the syrup it will be
found that, after cooling, the can is not quite full; but if the work
has been properly done, the fruit will keep all right.
Different Fruits Need Different Treatment.
Now, as to the different modes of treating various kinds of fruit. We
know that, when the germs are killed and the air is excluded, sugar is
not necessary for the preservation of the fruit. But there are few kinds
of fruit that are not improved by some sugar, because it fixes the color
and flavor, and gives much finer results. Some kinds of fruit require
but little sugar for this purpose, while others are poor indeed without
a generous amount. One has only to contrast the flavor and quality of
the canned peaches that are put up with and without sugar to realize the
great superiority of those with which saccharine matter has been used.
Where fruits are too dry to give out enough juice to cover them
generously, a light syrup should be used. But with juicy fruits, avoid
water if possible. A good rule in the case of small berries is to allow
one third of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit.
For fruit like peaches, pears, plums, etc., make a light syrup. Quinces
must first be cooked in clear water until tender.
In paring fruit use silver-plated knives, and drop each piece as soon as
pared into a bowl of cold water, which has been made acid by the
addition of lemon juice. This prevents the fruit from turning dark. Use
earthen bowls, and wooden or silver-plated spoons. Avoid any delay while
doing this work.
To Can Small Fruits.
Any fruit, if boiled long enough to have all the germs killed and the
air expelled, will keep indefinitely if sealed while boiling hot. Sugar
helps to preserve the fruit, but it is not absolutely essential to its
preservation. Sugar, however, preserves the fine flavor and color of the
fruit. Some fruits are not good when canned, unless a great deal of
sugar be used, whereas just the contrary is true of other kinds. Tastes
differ as to the amount of sugar to be employed; each housekeeper must
study her own tastes and those of her family. Blueberries need no sugar,
but are richer if a little be used. Blackberries and raspberries are
better for some sugar,—say a pound of sugar to four or six pounds of
fruit. More may be used, if liked. Strawberries require a great deal to
preserve the color and texture. All small fruits are richer if preserved
in their own juice.
Here is a rule for preserving raspberries, and the same general
principles apply to other fruits:—Take twelve quarts of raspberries and
two of sugar. Heat and crush three quarts of the fruit; then turn it,
together with the juice, into a piece of cheese-cloth which has been
placed over a bowl. Squeeze as much juice as possible from the hot
fruit. Put the juice and sugar in the preserving kettle, and set on the
fire. When the mixture begins to boil, skim well, and add the whole
berries. Simmer for fifteen minutes, skimming well. Put the hot fruit in
heated jars, and seal.
If the combined flavor of raspberry and currant be liked, use a quart of
currant juice for the syrup. In that case use an extra pint of sugar.
The twelve quarts of raspberries are then preserved whole.
Canned Rhubarb.
Get tender rhubarb. Pare it, and cut in pieces about two inches long.
Wash, and then pack it in glass jars. Fill the jars with cold water, and
let them stand for ten or fifteen minutes. Pour off the water and fill
the jars to overflowing with fresh cold water. Seal the jars and put
them in a cool, dark place. This will keep for a year or more, and
should be treated the same as fresh uncooked rhubarb when required for
use.
Blackberry Jam.
After picking over the berries, put them in the preserving kettle and
set on the range. Stir the fruit frequently. Let it boil for twenty
minutes, counting from the time it begins to bubble. Take it from the
fire and rub it through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds.
Measure the strained mixture and put it back in the preserving kettle
with a pint and a half of granulated sugar for every quart of strained
fruit. Heat the preserve slowly and stir frequently. Let it simmer for
forty-five minutes; then put up the jelly in tumblers.
If the fruit be of the large, soft kind that has few seeds, it need not
be strained.
Raspberry Jam.
12 quarts of raspberries.
3 quarts of sugar.
Pick the fruit free from leaves, stems, and imperfect berries. Put it in
a preserving kettle and set on the fire. Stir frequently. Simmer for
half an hour after it begins to boil; then add the sugar, and simmer for
one hour longer. Put the jam in hot jars, and seal while hot.
Currant and Raisin Jam.
3 pounds of sugar.
1 pound of raisins.
3-1/2 pounds of currants.
1 orange.
1 pint of water.
Cut the raisins in two and seed them; then cook them for one hour or
more in the pint of water. Pick over the currants and put them on to
cook in the preserving kettle. Add the orange juice, and cook for
fifteen minutes after the fruit begins to boil.
Remove the seeds from the orange, and, after chopping the pulp and peel
very fine, rub through the sugar. When the currants have been boiling
for fifteen minutes, add the other ingredients to them, and cook for
fifteen minutes longer. Put into jelly glasses, and when cold cover.
This quantity will fill twelve glasses.
Pear Marmalade.
8 pounds of sugar.
8 pounds of Seckel pears.
1/2 pound of crystallized ginger.
4 small lemons.
Boil the lemons in clear water until the peel can be pierced with a
broom splint; then cut it into small pieces. Peel and chip the pears,
and cut the ginger in thin slices. Put all the ingredients into the
preserving kettle and simmer for two hours. Pour the marmalade into
jelly glasses. This quantity will fill eighteen.
The water in which the lemons are cooked is to be thrown away.
Jellies.
In no department of preserving does the housekeeper feel less sure of
the results than in jelly making, so much depends upon the condition of
the fruit. This is more pronounced in the case of small fruits than with
the larger kinds.
When currants are over-ripe, or have been picked after a rain, the
result of using them will be uncertain. Perhaps we notice it more with
this fruit than with any other, because it is so generally used for
jelly. An understanding of the properties of fruit which forms the basis
of jellies may help the housekeepers to a better knowledge of the
conditions and methods essential to success.
Pectin, which forms the basis of vegetable jellies, is a substance
which, in its composition, resembles starch and gum. It gives to the
juices of fruits the property of gelatinizing. This property is at its
best when the fruit is just ripe; better a little under-ripe than
over-ripe. When boiled for a long time fruit loses its gelatinous
property and becomes of a gummy nature.
These facts show the importance of using fruit that is but just ripe and
freshly picked, as well as the need of care not to overcook the juice.
Covering Jellies.
There are several methods of covering jellies. Pasting paper over the
top of the glass is one of the oldest. Thin sheets of cotton batting,
tied over the top, make a good covering. A piece of white tissue paper
cut to fit into the glass, and simply laid on top of the jelly, is all
that some people use. It is stated that the jelly will not mould or
shrink so much when covered in this way as when the paper is pasted over
the glass.
Currant Jelly.
After freeing the currants from leaves and stems, put them in the
preserving kettle and set on the range. Crush the fruit with a wooden
vegetable masher, and stir frequently until heated to the boiling point.
Have a large square of cheese-cloth in a strainer which is set over a
bowl. Turn the crushed fruit and juice into this and let it stand long
enough to drain thoroughly. Do not use any pressure to extract the
juice. Have a flannel bag suspended over a bowl, and pour the strained
juice into this. Now measure the liquid, and put it into a clean
preserving kettle. When it boils up, add a scant quart of sugar for
every generous quart of fruit juice. Stir until the sugar is all
dissolved and the liquid begins to bubble; then strain through a clean
piece of cheese-cloth into a bowl. Immediately fill the tumblers, which
must be dry and warm. Let them stand uncovered until the jelly is set,
then cover with a round of paper, and over this tie a thin sheet of
cotton batting; or paper may be pasted over the glasses. If you use the
glasses that come with covers, nothing else will be required except the
first sheet of paper. Many housekeepers prefer to use even less sugar
than the amount given, allowing only a pint and a half of sugar to each
quart of fruit juice.
Currant Jelly, No. 2.
Pick the currants free from stems and leaves, and put them, a few quarts
at a time, in a large earthen or granite-ware dish, and crush them with
a vegetable masher. Put the crushed fruit into a square of cheese-cloth,
and press out the juice. Put the strained juice into the preserving
kettle and set on the fire. When it boils, skim it well; then turn it
into a flannel bag and let it drain into an earthen bowl. Do not press
the juice through the bag. Measure this strained juice, and put it on
the fire in a clean preserving kettle. Let it boil for five minutes. Now
add a pint of granulated sugar for every pint of currant juice. Stir the
mixture until it begins to boil. Boil for just one minute; then fill the
glasses, which must be warm, and set them in a sunny window until the
jelly is firm. It may require only a few hours’ time for this, and it
may take even a day or two; all depends upon the condition of the
currants.
A much clearer and handsomer jelly is made by putting the currant juice,
when it has been strained the second time, into the clean kettle, and
adding, when it comes to the boiling point, the sugar; then stirring
until the sugar is dissolved, and filling the glasses immediately. Set
in the sun until the jelly becomes firm. It will take two or three days.
This is called sun-cooked jelly. The currants must be in perfect
condition for this kind of jelly; just ripe, and freshly picked.
Crab Apple Jelly.
Wash the fruit and put it in a preserving kettle with just enough water
to cover it. Let it simmer for one hour. Have a piece of cheese-cloth in
a strainer that is set over a bowl, and turn the cooked fruit and liquid
into it. Let this drain well; then strain the liquid through a clean
flannel bag. Measure it, and place on the fire, in the preserving
kettle. Boil for ten minutes, counting from the time it begins to boil;
then add the sugar, using a pint and a half for every quart of juice.
When this boils up, strain through clean cheese-cloth, and fill warm
tumblers. Cover when the jelly is set.
Peach, apple, and quince jellies may be made in this way.
Other Jellies.
Jelly can be made from any of the small juicy fruits in the same manner
as currant jelly.
Cucumber Pickles.
100 small green cucumbers.
2 quarts of small silver-skin onions.
Six small green peppers.
1 gallon of vinegar.
1 pint of rock salt.
1/4 ounce of alum.
1 tablespoonful of mustard seed.
1 tablespoonful of whole clove.
1 tablespoonful of allspice.
Have a part of the stems left on the cucumbers. Wash the cucumbers in
cold water; then lay them in a tub or jar, sprinkle the salt over them,
and cover with ice water. Lay a large piece of ice on top of the
cucumbers, and set away in a cold place for thirty-six hours. At the end
of that time take the cucumbers from the salt and water, and place in a
stone jar, mixing the onions and peppers among them.
Tie the whole spice in a thin muslin bag and after putting it, with the
vinegar and alum, in a porcelain or granite-ware saucepan, set the pan
on the fire. When the vinegar boils, pour it on the pickles, putting the
spice on top. When the contents of the jar are cold, set away in a cool,
dark place. The pickles will be ready for use in twenty-four hours.
Sweet Cucumber Pickles.
100 small green cucumbers.
1 gallon of vinegar.
1 pint of coarse salt.
1 pint of sugar.
1 stick of cinnamon.
1/2 tablespoonful of white mustard seed.
1/2 tablespoonful of black mustard seed.
1/4 teaspoonful of celery seed.
1/2 tablespoonful of allspice.
1/2 of a nutmeg.
A small piece of mace.
1 small green pepper.
1 gill of grated horseradish.
1 ounce of green ginger.
1 ounce of alum.
Have the cucumbers picked with a part of the stems on. Wash them, and
put in a tub or stone jar. Make a brine with the salt and six quarts of
water. Pour this on the cucumbers while boiling hot. On the second and
third days pour off the brine. Boil and skim it, and then pour it, while
boiling hot, on the cucumbers. On the fourth day take the pickles from
the brine. Put the alum in six quarts of boiling water and boil until
the alum is dissolved. Pour this on the pickles and let them stand until
the next day; then pour off the liquid, and, after scalding and skimming
it, pour it on the pickles again.
Repeat this the sixth day. Should the cucumbers be not green enough on
the sixth day, add a little more alum to the water. On the seventh day
pour off the alum water and cover the pickles with clear boiling water.
Let them stand in this water for twenty-four hours. At the end of this
time take them from the water and place in the jars in which they are to
be kept. Sprinkle the white mustard seed among the cucumbers.
Put the vinegar in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware kettle and set on
the fire. Add the cinnamon, broken small, the nutmeg, grated, and the
other spice, as well as the sugar. Boil this for five minutes; then take
from the fire and partially cool. Pour this on the cucumbers. Now add to
the contents of the jars the horseradish, ginger root, and the green
pepper, cut in pieces. Store the pickles in a cool, dark place. They
will keep perfectly for two years if carefully made.
The quantities of sugar and spice may be varied to suit one’s taste.
Tomato Pickle.
12 large ripe tomatoes.
3 onions of medium size.
4 red peppers of medium size.
2 tablespoonfuls of brown sugar.
2 tablespoonfuls of salt.
1/2 pint of vinegar.
Peel and slice the tomatoes. Chop the onions and peppers fine. Put all
the ingredients in the preserving kettle and cook slowly for an hour and
a half; then bottle and seal.
Canadian Tomato Pickle.
1 peck of green tomatoes.
6 large onions.
1/2 pint of salt.
3 quarts of vinegar.
1 quart of water.
1 pound of brown sugar.
2 tablespoonfuls of curry-powder.
2 tablespoonfuls of turmeric.
1 tablespoonful of ground cinnamon.
1 tablespoonful of ground clove.
1 tablespoonful of ground allspice.
1 tablespoonful of ground mustard.
Slice the tomatoes and onions and sprinkle the salt over them. Let them
stand over night. In the morning drain off the liquid and put the
vegetables in the preserving kettle with one quart each of water and
vinegar. Let the mixture boil for five minutes, then drain well. To the
drained mixture add the spice, sugar, and two quarts of vinegar. Put on
the fire and boil for fifteen minutes, counting from the time it begins
to bubble. Put into jars and seal.
Governor’s Sauce.
1 peck of green tomatoes.
6 red or green peppers.
1/2 pint of grated horseradish.
1/2 pint of salt.
4 large onions.
1/2 pint of brown sugar.
1 tablespoonful of ground clove.
1 tablespoonful of ground allspice.
1 teaspoonful of white pepper.
Vinegar enough to cover the ingredients,—about two quarts.
Slice the tomatoes and sprinkle the salt over them. Let them stand over
night. In the morning drain off the liquor and put the tomatoes in the
preserving kettle. Add the seasonings and the peppers and onions,
chopped fine. Pour over these ingredients enough vinegar to cover them
well. Simmer the sauce for one hour and a half; then put up in jars and
seal.
Tomato Catsup.
10 quarts of tomatoes.
1 quart of cider vinegar.
1 pound of brown sugar.
1/4 pound of salt.
1 ounce of pepper corns.
1 ounce of whole allspice.
1/2 ounce of whole cloves.
1/2 ounce of whole ginger.
8 ounces of ground mustard.
3 small red peppers.
3 cloves of garlic.
Cut the tomatoes up and put them on the fire, in the preserving kettle.
Add the garlic, and cook until the tomatoes are tender,—about forty-five
minutes after they begin to boil. Rub them through a sieve fine enough
to keep back the seeds. Put the strained mixture on the fire, in the
preserving kettle. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper. Tie the whole spice
and red peppers in a piece of muslin, and put them with the other
ingredients. Mix the mustard smoothly with cold water, and stir into the
mixture. Simmer the catsup for an hour and a half; then put up in
bottles.
The catsup must be stirred often to prevent burning.
Canned Tomatoes.
Put ripe tomatoes in a large pan and cover them with boiling water. Let
them stand for four or five minutes; then pour off the water and pare
the tomatoes. Another way to reach the same result is to have a large
kettle of boiling water on the fire, and put the tomatoes in a wire
basket and plunge them into the boiling water for a minute or two.
After paring the tomatoes, cut them in small pieces. Put the sliced
vegetable in the preserving kettle and heat slowly, stirring frequently.
Let them boil for half an hour, or longer, after they begin to boil.
Fill heated jars, and seal them. When cold, put in a cool, dark place.
Spiced Currants.
3 generous quarts of currants.
1 quart of sugar.
1/2 pint of vinegar.
1 tablespoonful of cloves.
1 tablespoonful of cinnamon.
Measure the currants after they have been picked. Put all the
ingredients into the preserving kettle and place on the stove. Stir the
mixture frequently, and when it begins to boil skim carefully. Cook for
half an hour, counting from the time it begins to boil. Put it up in
small jars or tumblers. This is to be served with meat.
Spiced Crab Apple.
3 pounds of crab apple.
1-3/4 pounds of brown sugar.
1 teaspoonful of clove.
1 teaspoonful of pepper.
1 teaspoonful of salt.
Cover the crab apples with boiling water and cook them until tender;
then rub them through a sieve, pressing all the liquid through also. Put
the strained fruit into a preserving kettle, and add the sugar and
seasoning. Cook gently for an hour and a half; then put in tumblers.
When cold, cover with paper, the same as jelly. This is to be served
with cold meat.
Piccalilli.
1 peck of green tomatoes.
2 red peppers.
12 onions.
1/2 pint of salt.
1/2 pint of grated horseradish.
1 tablespoonful of ground clove.
1 tablespoonful of ground allspice.
1 tablespoonful of ground cinnamon.
3 quarts of vinegar.
Slice the tomatoes, peppers, and onions. Add the salt to the sliced
vegetables, and mix well. Let this mixture stand over night. In the
morning drain off the liquid; then add the other ingredients, and,
putting the mixture in a preserving kettle, cook for four hours,
stirring often. Put the piccalilli in glass jars while hot, and it will
keep for a year or more.
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