CHAPTER XXIII

CHRISTMAS IN AUSTRALIA

While it may be far from exact to say, with certain modern

philosophers, that climate creates and explains religions, it is

undoubtedly true that climate exercises a modifying effect upon certain

of the traditional observances of religion. Christmas is a case in

point. A man brought up in a northern clime associates the great

festival with the shortest day, and often with the sharpest weather.

Keen frost, deep snow, biting winds, roaring fires, bare gardens--these

are the framework of his Christmas. His thought transfers these wintry

conditions to the Holy Land, and he pictures the great Birth as having

occurred amidst the rigours of a northern winter. In this he is

probably wrong, but it is an error taught him by his native soil, and

from which often he has not sufficient knowledge or imagination to free

himself. Christmas and cold are to him synonymous.

When such a man crosses the seas and lives for a time in a tropical or

a sub-tropical climate, he finds it exceedingly difficult to adjust

himself to the new Christmas conditions. He finds his new Christmas so

utterly different from anything he has hitherto experienced, that the

observance of the festival smacks of unreality. It is now midsummer

with him; the days of the year are at their longest; the fireplaces

are filled with shavings, or discreetly hidden from view by painted

screens. The winds that blow come with fiery breath, the gardens

are blooming with summer flowers, and the orchards are filled with

fruit trees bearing their ripened produce. It requires a particularly

powerful imagination to surmount this actual Christmas and to replace

it by the traditional Christmas of the Old Land. And this kind of

imagination I do not possess.

It was an announcement in a large shop in Collins Street that first

made me aware of the proximity of Christmas: “Christmas Presents for

the Folks at Home--the last English mail in time for Christmas leaves

Melbourne on Nov. 19.” Thus ran the notice. And it struck me in a most

curious manner. The calendar distinctly pointed to Christmas, but

the weather and the gardens and the general surroundings whispered

mockingly: “This is nearing midsummer; the longest day is coming.

Christmas is a fiction--poor Englishman, there is no Christmas for you;

get out your duck suits and straw hat, and prepare for picnics and a

summer holiday.” And then I knew that I must walk by faith and not by

sight. For the first time in my life Christmas became empty of meaning.

All the sentiment of it vanished in a moment. I was alone, an actor

in the midst of a stage devoid of scenery. Every single “property”

of the great Christmas festival slowly accumulated during more than

forty years of life had been carried away in an instant. Blazing logs,

crackling fires, merry parties, mysterious stockings, frosty window

panes, keen air, snow-covered ground, and, above all, the waits--all

had gone, carried off by the magician who lives on this side of the

Equator.

And immediately Collins Street, for the moment, became a place of

exile. Its light turned to darkness, its charm fled. I turned to the

dear little woman at my side, and I saw that her face was wet with

tears.

We had to encounter a new kind of Christmas, and when the first shock

was over we settled to the idea, and determined to have a good time.

“But why not have the old and the new?” we said. If space had placed

13,000 miles between us and the Christmas we love so well, space

could not imprison our thoughts. So we determined to fly to the Old

Country and have an old-fashioned English Christmas. In a moment of

time we were in Gamage’s, showing the children the wonderful toys.

Then we shopped in Regent Street, and afterwards went to Maskelyne and

Devant’s, and later took the train into the country. We watched the

snow fall, and afterwards did some snowballing. We went to church, and

sang hymns and carols. And then came dinner and the family party. We

had a real good time, until the maid came and said: “There’s a north

wind, madam. I am going to close the windows.” And in a moment we were

back to our own Christmas, with the thermometer registering a little

over ninety degrees.

That north wind needs a word of explanation. It is the sirocco of

Victoria. Its hot breath is heralded by a day or a night of depression.

And when it arrives it is pitiless. Great clouds of dust come with

it, making life unbearable. Like a funeral pall the dust hangs over

everything. The skin becomes hot and dry, and everybody is out of

temper. It is useless to fight the north wind. The only thing to be

done is to run away from it by closing up the house and hermetically

sealing every window until the calamity is overpast. When the change

comes and the wind veers to the south, the relief is unspeakably

precious. The temperature will drop sometimes no fewer than thirty-five

degrees in half an hour. And then it is that influenza is likely to be

contracted. I said the thermometer registered ninety degrees; that was

when the north wind commenced to blow. But at midday the mercury had

mounted up to one hundred degrees in _the shade_. It was terrible. The

wind was as the breath of a fiery oven. The trees drooped, the flowers

hung lifeless upon their stalks, the grass of the lawn turned brown

in an hour, and the parched earth gaped and gasped. Over the entire

soil there quivered the fateful shimmer of the heat. Men and birds and

beasts were smitten with an overwhelming languor. It was the African

desert over again without relief. Little wonder, then, on the next

day, the journals reported fires in every direction. One single spark

sufficed to set an entire countryside on fire. Enormous crops of wheat,

ripe and ready to be reaped, were consumed by the flames in a single

morning. Useless to fight that raging furnace! Once the first fiery

tongue leapt from one stalk to another the whole area was doomed. In

one part of Victoria the bush and wheat-field fires devastated fifty

miles of country.

Thus our Christmas week opened. After that all Christmas ceremony was

obviously mere stage acting. Yet the form was rigorously observed.

Cards were exchanged and presents given. But _such_ presents! Take the

following alluring notices, for example, and let anyone imagine how

they struck an Englishman for the first time:

“New sunshades and parasols--splendid presents for Christmas.” “New

summer hats--just the thing for a Christmas present.” “Indian muslins,

just arrived--nothing better for a Christmas present.” It was all lost

upon me. For parasols I insisted upon reading “umbrellas”; for summer

hats, “furs and snow-boots”; for Indian muslins, “warm West of England

tweeds”--habits like mine cannot be broken in a moment. Of course,

there are toy fairs arranged for the youngsters, and there is even a

pretence of having Father Christmas in traditional garb. But what can

the white-bearded, frosted patriarch mean to children who have never

seen snow and whose patriarchs are sunburnt with long exposure to the

atmosphere in the hot Bush?

Most of all I miss the poultry display. Those long lines of turkeys and

geese killed a week in advance of Christmas, and exhibited in enticing

fashion until Christmas Eve!--we have none of that here. Imagine a

turkey being hung day after day for a week in an atmosphere like this!

There is one display, and that is on Christmas Eve, and even that one

is modest compared with what we have been accustomed to in the Old

Country. The birds are not killed until the last minute, hence they are

not so tender as English turkeys. It is mere slavery, this traditional

eating of turkey and plum-pudding at Christmas time; but the older folk

here permit themselves to be willing victims of custom. It is turkey

and plum-pudding at home; then it shall be that here, so they argue.

Climate and season protest against it, but in vain. One family of which

I heard drew down their blinds one Christmas, and lit the gas, and

ate their Christmas dinner under artificial light. It was the nearest

approach they could make to the Old Country way.

The younger generation is making the daring experiment of trying to

abandon the English Christmas, and to replace it by an Australian

festival. They argue that the transplanting of Northern customs to

these hot climes is ridiculous, and that whereas rich and heavy meals

may be in place at Christmastide in a climate where snow and frost are

found, they are utterly out of place here under azure-burning skies.

Some plants will not bear transplanting, and this is one of them. The

Yule-log and furs have never established themselves here at midsummer,

neither should the turkey and plum-pudding be permitted to do so. Hence

the young Australian is quietly dropping the traditional Christmas

fare, and substituting for it ices, cool drinks, and fruit. And as

peaches and apricots are now selling at one penny per pound, he finds

it advantageous, in more ways than one, to accept the natural boon of

the country rather than the artificial one of tradition.

A new Christmas is being born in which the old spirit is finding fresh

forms more consonant with the climate. God forbid that the old spirit

should ever die!

The great heat which ushered in our last Christmas week in Australia

was exceptionally trying during the hours of public worship. For many,

church-going was out of the question. People remained at home, seeking

coolness in darkened houses. Those who ventured out to church on the

Sunday morning had to travel in stifling railway carriages, or walk

over baking pavements. Within the church electric fans were moving,

together with a multitude of hand fans. At first it is distracting to

a preacher to speak to hundreds of people who are fanning themselves;

after a time, however, neither preacher nor audience takes any notice

of the motion. The feminine portion of the congregation is clad wholly

in white; the men affect light cashmeres, tweeds, or tussore silk.

Scarcely a black hat is seen. “Topees,” tropical helmets, and straws

are the order of the day. At night the church was full for a special

Christmas service. But everybody was languid. The hymns were sung

without the usual enthusiasm. The great heat had, for the time being,

ruined the organ, which remained silent. The poor preacher used up a

handkerchief or two in the effort to keep his face dry. Then it was

that the incongruity of keeping the traditional Christmas under the

Southern Cross was manifest in its fullest form. For the choir stood

and sang the carol, beginning:

“See amid the winter snow,”

and the thermometer registered over ninety degrees!

They sang again Rossetti’s beautiful song,

“In the bleak mid-winter,”

and the great organ solemnly protested that it had been ruined

temporarily by midsummer heat.

No! it is useless to try and link up a Northern Christmas with our

Australian climate. The effort miserably fails.

Christmas Day, however, compensated us for all the trying heat of the

previous week. There came one of those dramatic changes in temperature

for which Melbourne is noted. In one hour the glass fell nearly thirty

degrees. A “southerly buster” broke over us without warning, and when

the dust storm had passed people were glad to put on thicker clothing.

And so it came to pass that Christmas Day was chilly. The tempest broke

up the heat and gave us weather less than normal. With the cooler

temperature, goose and plum-pudding seemed more in place than in

former years. But how could there be an English Christmas Day when the

light remained until half-past eight? Before the kindly darkness came

on, the little people, who “at home” would have been busy with the

Christmas-tree, were yawning and inquiring after bed.

One can never forget these Christmas days under the Southern Cross, but

to experience the ancient sentiment of Christmas one must be in the

ancient home.

Five Years Under the Southern Cross: Experiences and Impressions · 第 23 / 33 章