CHAPTER XVIII

AMONGST THE ABORIGINES

When the first settlers came to Australia they found in possession of

the country a black population, representing a humanity low down in

the scale. The native population was never in reality so large as many

persons have imagined. It is difficult to arrive at exact figures,

because in the north there are still large numbers of natives living

in a state of practical savagery. These roam about at their will.

Where the white man has penetrated, however, the black has gradually

receded. When the black adopts “civilised” ways, his already precarious

existence becomes yet more precarious. Affecting the white man’s

vices--the first thing he naturally copies--he speedily runs down the

hill and passes off the scene. The native population is being gradually

but surely wiped out.

In less than five decades the number of aborigines has been reduced

from 1,694 to 652, and this in the State of Victoria alone. At the

census of 1901 there were found only 271 natives of pure blood in the

State, and 381 of half-castes. At the census of 1911 it was found

that the figures had fallen to 196. If in fifty years the decrease

in population has been so marked and so startling, it requires no

prophetic gift to foretell the speedy extinction of the Australian

native. A few more years and not a black will be left. That terrible

law of the survival of the fittest will again have asserted itself.

When, therefore, the opportunity presented itself to me to see one

of the three native settlements still left in Victoria, of course I

immediately availed myself of it.

Two hours’ steady climbing on the railway brings one to Healesville.

And four miles from Healesville lies Coranderrk, a Government

settlement for the aborigines. Quite off the road lies the colony of

seventy men and women. There is no indication of its existence other

than what is supplied by a fingerpost, which signifies nothing to

anyone who does not know what lies behind the name Coranderrk. But the

site is ideal for a retired residence. It lies in the centre of a vast

amphitheatre of hills, and day and night a profound silence envelops

the colony. Never a sound from the outside world penetrates the

solitude. The quietness is that of a mausoleum. The race that inhabits

it is slowly dying; what more fitting as an accompaniment of death than

the solemn stillness which already heralds the eternal stillness of the

tomb?

There is more than a suggestion of the American South in this colony.

The old men and women, dressed in an odd mixture of British costumes,

might well be the originals of some of the characters in “Uncle Tom’s

Cabin.” Black skins, grisly hair, and light-coloured garments form

a curious compound. There is no fashion, no symmetry in any of the

garments. Slouch hats of the Wild West, straw hats of Bond Street, and

old billycock hats make up the male headgear; while various coloured

vests, trousers, coats, and cravats complete the attire.

The log cabins, some twenty in all, which are scattered over the

settlement, complete the illusion that, after all, we are in the

American South, amongst the negro population. The one dash of modernity

is supplied by one or two mulattos--girls--who, clad in becoming white

garments, present a really attractive picture. These girls treated

us to a little service of song in the humble meeting-house which is

the head-quarters of the mission propaganda in the colony. For all

these folk understand English--the younger generation nothing but

English--and they all attend church. They are docile and happy, save

for an occasional row, in which the original vernacular is used with

freedom and emphasis. It was touching to hear these girls of the second

generation sing simple Sankey hymns, and to reflect that the day must

inevitably come when on this Government estate of 2,400 acres there

would be no such songs sung by native lips. The younger people marry,

and children are born; but the race is surely dying off. Some mixed

marriages occur, and the offspring of these are half-castes, who are as

little welcomed in the schools as the pure-blooded native children. One

of them pathetically remarked to me that they were shunned by the white

children. The colour line is as marked here as in America.

From the point of view of attractiveness the colony has much to

recommend it. Pasture land surrounds the houses, and most of the

natives keep their own cows. Everything, of course, is exceedingly

simple, and it is the simplicity that attracts. Laundry work is done

out of doors in a primitive manner. We found one buxom young lady

seated lazily by the side of a tub in which her clothes lay soaking.

She stretched forth her hands and rubbed her clothes in a style that

suggested that any day next week would do to finish them. In a little

natural basin on the slope of the hill the water of a rivulet had

been collected into a large bath or reservoir, and the youngsters

congregated about in a way that showed that they had not lost the

instincts of their fathers for water gymnastics. One very modern touch

appeared in the shape of three irregular pieces of wood arranged

as cricket stumps. It was a species of cricket one might without

difficulty have imagined prehistoric man to have played at. For bat,

the youth of Coranderrk employed part of a boomerang.

That word reminds me of the remarkably clever display given to us by

the natives of boomerang throwing. The boomerang is an innocent-looking

weapon which the ignorant would never suspect could be applied to

dangerous work. In appearance it resembles a rude Tee-square, and each

side is about a foot long. Thrown by an ignorant Briton like myself

the weapon merely careers along the ground for a space of thirty or

forty feet and nothing further happens, save the ironical laughter of

the natives, who receive a demonstration that even a Briton does not

know everything. But when the native throws it, the weapon accomplishes

wonders. It suddenly becomes alive. It defies all general laws. The

black sends the wood from him in a straight direction, but lo! it

whistles and sings and describes circles in the air like a bird, and

then suddenly descends to the earth in a vertical direction, landing

at the very place from which it was projected. When we saw how easily

the thing was done, we all caught the fever and became boomerang

throwers. Lawyer, doctor, parson, and merchant stood in the field and

went back in an instant to the primitive hunting ways of the savage.

The boomerang is an ugly instrument to play with, however. After a

flight of thirty seconds, during which it gains momentum, it descends

like lightning, sometimes where it is not wanted. The doctor threw

his boomerang with such precision that it returned twice and struck

him violently on the hand--the hand that had thrown it. If boomerang

throwing were introduced into England it would become a perfect craze.

It would completely eclipse the diabolo craze. But then it would be

necessary to increase the number of surgeons and ambulance men, for a

blow from a boomerang might inflict serious damage.

Another native custom was shown to us, and proved to be most

fascinating. It was the art of the fire-stick. Here, under our eyes,

was exposed the primitive way of obtaining fire. The apparatus looked

most unpromising. It consisted of a piece of soft wood about a foot

long and six inches wide, a piece of dry fibre, and a short, narrow

cane made of hard wood. Placing the cane between the palms of his two

hands, the operator swiftly turned it into the soft wood beneath with

a friction so powerful that the cane pierced the wood, causing it to

smoke. The air, blowing through the hole thus made, fanned the spark

which, falling upon the dry fibre beneath, set it on fire. Thus in one

minute, by simple friction, a fire equal to any kindled by a match was

blazing. The process was picturesque and exciting. In that group of

darkies gathered round a piece of wood, a handful of fibre, and a hard

cane, we beheld primitive man engaged in the task of kindling his fire.

It was, for the moment, ancient history incarnate. And when it was

over, a member of our party, drawing forth a box of vestas, remarked,

“Good old Bryant and May.” He remembered his mercies, and was thankful.

The one pathetic scene of the afternoon’s visit was our encounter with

the “King” of the natives. From the distance we observed a venerable

figure approaching. As he came nearer we perceived a brass plate

suspended by a chain around his neck. The apparition resembled, for all

the world, a _facchino_ of an Italian railway station--brass plate and

all. Inscribed upon the tablet was this legend:

ANTHONY ANDERSON,

King of Birchup.

And this was the deposed chief of the district, vanquished by the

white man, chased out of his patrimony, and reduced to the proportions

of an exile! I could not discover the native name of the ancient chief;

it was certainly _not_ Anthony Anderson. Nor could I discover why he

had assumed the name of Anderson. He was a truly pathetic figure. Skin

black as coal, his hair and beard were nearly white. The odd costume

he affected served only to set off the antiquity of his own person.

An ancient pair of light trousers, no longer white; a begreased coat;

a flaming red tie with the flame expiring, and a shapeless billycock

hat dyed through and through with grease--such was his dress. The old

man wept as he told us that all the friends of his youth were dead: he

alone was left. Once, in the long ago, he was an agile chief, master of

all that great stretch of property around the hills. But the white man

came, and his reign was over. All that remains to him is a memory of

the past, and a quiet asylum for the few remaining months or years of

his life. The king wept as he recited his story, and then--bathos! he

asked for a _pourboire_--and got it. But, then, _all_ kings get their

“tips,” some in one way, some in another. And Anthony Anderson, King of

Birchup, was primitive in his manner of asking--that is all.

Five Years Under the Southern Cross: Experiences and Impressions · 第 18 / 33 章