At Schwetzingen the fine Electoral road concludes, and we began to
wind along the skirts of a forest on the left, having on the right
an open corn country, beyond which appeared the towers of Spires and
Philipsburg, of which the former was then the head-quarters of the
Austrian army, and the latter is memorable for having given birth to
Melancthon in 1491. Waghausel and Bruchsal are small posting places
in this route, at a village between which we had another instance of
the little attention paid to travellers in Germany. At a small inn,
noxious with some fumigation used against bugs, we were detained a
quarter of an hour, because the landlord, who had gone out after our
arrival, had not left word how much we should pay, and the poor old
woman, who, without shoes or stockings, attended us, was terrified when
we talked of leaving what was proper, and proceeding before his return.
About a mile beyond Bruchsal our postillion quitted the chaussée,
and entered a summer road, through the deep and extensive forest of
Carlsruhe, preserved by the Margrave of Baden for the shelter of
game. Avenues cut through this forest for nine or ten miles in every
direction, converge at his palace and city of Carlsruhe, as at a point.
Other cruelties than those of the chase sometimes take place in these
delightful scenes, for an amphitheatre has been formed in the woods,
where imitations of a Spanish bull feast have been exhibited; to such
horrid means of preventing vacuity of mind has a prince had recourse,
who is otherwise distinguished for the elegance of his taste, and the
suavity of his manners!
The scenery of this forest is very various. Sometimes we found our way
through groves of ancient pine and fir, so thickly planted that their
lower branches were withered for want of air, and it seemed as if the
carriage could not proceed between them; at others we passed under the
spreading shade of chesnuts, oak and walnut, and crossed many a cool
stream, green with the impending foliage, on whose sequestered bank one
almost expected to see the moralizing Jacques; so exactly did the scene
accord with Shakespeare's description. The woods again opening, we
found ourselves in a noble avenue, and saw the stag gracefully bounding
across it "to more profound repose;" while now and then a hut, formed
of rude green planks under some old oak, seemed, by its smoked sides,
to have often afforded a sheltered repast to hunting parties.
Near Carlsruhe the gardens of the Prince and then the palace become
visible, the road winding along them, on the edge of the forest, till
it enters the northern gate of the city, the uniformity of which has
the same date as its completion, the ground plot having been entirely
laid out between January and June 1715, on the 17th of which month the
Margrave Charles William laid the foundation stone.
The streets are accordingly spacious, light, and exactly straight; but
not so magnificent as those of Manheim, and still less enlivened with
passengers. Since the commencement of the war, the gaieties of the
Court, which afforded some occupation to the inhabitants, have ceased;
the nobility have left their houses; and the Margrave is contented
with the amusements of his library, in which English literature is
said to fill a considerable space.
Carlsruhe has the advantage of not being fortified; so that the
inhabitants are not oppressed by a numerous garrison, and strangers
pass through it, though so near the seat of war, without interruption.
It is less than Manheim by at least half, and has no considerable
public building, except the palace, from the spacious area before
which, all the streets proceed as _radii_, till their furthest ends
fill up the figure of a semicircle. The houses in the area, which
immediately front the palace, are built over a piazza interrupted only
by the commencement of the streets. The palace has, of course, an
unexampled advantage in the mixture of town and rural scenery in its
prospects, looking on one side through all the streets of the city, and
on the other through thirty-two forest alleys, cut to various lengths
of from ten to fifteen English miles each; few, however, of the latter
prospects are now commanded except from the upper windows, the present
Elector having entirely changed the style of the intervening gardens,
and permitted them to be laid out in the English taste, without respect
to the thirty-two intersections, that rendered them conformable with
the forest.
We passed part of two days at Carlsruhe, and were chiefly in these
gardens, which are of the most enchanting beauty and richness. The
warmth of the climate draws up colours for the shrubs and plants,
which we thought could not be equalled in more northern latitudes; two
thousand and seven hundred orange and lemon trees, loaded with fruit
and blossoms, perfumed the air; and choice shrubs, marked with the
Linnean distinctions, composed the thickets. The gardens, being limited
only by the forests, appear to unite with them; and the deep verdure
and luxuriance of the latter are contrasted sweetly with the tender
green of the lawns and plants, and with the variety of scarce and
majestic trees, mingled with the garden groves.
The palace is a large and sumptuous, though not an elegant edifice,
built of stone like all the rest of the city, and at the same period.
The Margrave generally resides in it, and has rendered it a valuable
home, by adding greatly to the library, filling an observatory with
excellent instruments, and preserving the whole structure in a
condition not usual in Germany. The spot, compared with the surrounding
country, appeared like Milton's Eden--like Paradise opened in the wild.
Beyond Carlsruhe the road begins to approach the Rhine, which we had
lost sight of near Manheim; and, though the river is never within view,
the country is considered as a military frontier, being constantly
patrolled by troops. Some of these were of the Prince of Condé's army
of emigrants, who have no uniform, and are distinguished only by the
white cockade, and by a bandage of white linen, impressed with black
_fleurs de lis_, upon the right arm. They were chiefly on foot, and
then wore only their swords, without fire-arms.
Near the road, a small party of Austrians were guarding a magazine,
before a tent, marked, like their regimentals, with green upon white.
Soon afterwards, our postillion drew up on one side, to permit a train
of carriages to pass, and immediately announced the _Prinz von Condé_,
who was in an open landau, followed by two covered waggons for his
kitchen and laundry, and by a coach with attendants.
He appeared to be between fifty and sixty; tall, not corpulent, and of
an air, which might have announced the French courtier, if his rank had
been unknown. A star was embroidered upon his military surtout, but
he had no guards, though travelling within the jurisdiction allotted
to him as a general officer. So little was the road frequented at this
period, that his was the second or third carriage we had met, except
military waggons, since leaving Mentz; a distance of more than eighty
English miles.
The road for the whole stage between Carlsruhe and Rastadt, about
fifteen miles, is planted, as seems customary in Germany between
the palaces of sovereigns, with lofty trees, of which the shade was
extremely refreshing at this season; the clouds of sand, that rose from
the road, would otherwise have made the heat intolerable.
The first house in Rastadt is the palace of the Margrave of Baden
Baden, brother of the Margrave of Baden Durlach, whose residence is at
Carlsruhe, a small and heavy building, that fronts the avenue, and is
surrounded with stone walls. The interior is said to be splendidly
decorated, and a chamber is preserved in the state, in which Prince
Eugene and Marshal Villars left it in 1714, after concluding the peace
between the Emperor and Louis the Fourteenth. The Prince of Baden,
being then a general in the service of the Emperor, had not been able
to escape the vengeance of Louis, whose troops in 1688 first plundered,
and then burnt, the palace and city, and in the war of the Succession
they had a camp on the adjoining plain. The Prince is therefore
supposed to have lent the palace, which he had rebuilt, with the more
readiness, that the Marshal might see how perfectly he could overcome
his loss. The plunder of the city in 1688 had continued for five days,
and it is mentioned in its history that the French carried away fifteen
waggon loads of wine of the vintage of 1572.
Rastadt, like Carlsruhe, is built upon one plan, but is as inferior
to it in beauty, as in size. The chief street is, however, uncommonly
broad, so much so, that the upper end is used as a market-place, and
the statue of the founder, Prince Louis, in the centre, is seen with
all the advantages of space and perspective. There is, notwithstanding,
little appearance of traffic, and the inhabitants seemed to be much
less numerous than the emigrant corps, which was then stationed there,
the head quarters of the Prince of Condé being established in the city.
We passed an hour at an inn, which was nearly filled by part of this
corps, and were compelled to witness the distress and disappointment,
excited by intelligence just then received of the state of affairs in
the Low Countries.
A small park of artillery was kept on the southern side of Rastadt,
where there is a handsome stone bridge over the river Murg, that falls
into the Rhine, at the distance of a league from the city. Soon after,
the road passes by the groves of the _Favorita_, a summer palace built
by a dowager Margravine. We now drew nearer to the mountains of the
Bergstrasse, which had disappeared near Schwetzingen, and had risen
again partially through the morning mists, soon after our quitting
Carlsruhe. They are here of more awful height, and abrupt steepness
than in the neighbourhood of Manheim, and, on their pointed brows, are
frequently the ruins of castles, placed sometimes where it seems as if
no human foot could climb. The nearer we approached these mountains the
more we had occasion to admire the various tints of their granites.
Sometimes the precipices were of a faint pink, then of a deep red, a
dull purple, or a blush approaching to lilac, and sometimes gleams
of a pale yellow mingled with the low shrubs, that grew upon their
sides. The day was cloudless and bright, and we were too near these
heights to be deceived by the illusions of aërial colouring; the real
hues of their features were as beautiful, as their magnitude was
sublime. The plains, that extend along their feet to the Rhine, are
richly cultivated with corn, and, beyond the river, others, which
appear to be equally fruitful, spread towards the mountains of Alsace,
a corresponding chain with the Bergstrasse, vast and now blue with
distance.
The manners of the people from Manheim downwards, are more civilized
than in the upper parts of Germany; an improvement, which may with
great probability be imputed to the superior fruitfulness of the
country, that amends their condition, and with it the social qualities.
The farms are more numerous, the labourers less dejected, and the
women, who still work barefooted in the fields, have somewhat of a
ruddy brown in their complexion, instead of the sallowness, that
renders the ferocious, or sullen air of the others more striking.
They are also better dressed; for, though they retain the slouched
woollen hat, they have caps; and towards the borders of Switzerland
their appearance becomes picturesque. Here they frequently wear a blue
petticoat with a cherry-coloured boddice, full white sleeves fastened
above the elbow, and a muslin handkerchief thrown gracefully round the
neck in a sort of roll; the hair sometimes platted round the head, and
held on the crown with a large bodkin. On holidays, the girls have
often a flat straw hat, with bows of ribband hanging behind. Higher up,
the women wear their long black hair platted, but falling in a queue
down the back.
The cottages are also somewhat better, and the sides entirely covered
with vines, on which, in the beginning of July, were grapes bigger
than capers, and in immense quantities. Sometimes Turkey corn is put
to dry under the projections of the first floor, and the gardens are
ornamented with a short alley of hops. Meat is however bad and scarce;
the appearance so disgusting before it is dressed, that those, who can
accommodate their palates to the cooking, must endeavour to forget what
they have seen. Butter is still more scarce, and the little cheese
that appears, is only a new white curd, made up in rolls, scarcely
bigger than an egg. A sort of beer is here made for servants, the
taste of which affords no symptom of either malt or hops; it is often
nearly white, and appears to have been brewed but a few hours; what is
somewhat browner is bottled, and sold at about threepence a quart.
Our road, this day, was seldom more than two leagues distant from the
Rhine, and we expected to have heard the fire, which the Austrian and
French posts, who have their batteries on the two banks of the river,
frequently exchange with each other. The tranquillity was, however,
as sound as in any other country, and nothing but the continuance
of patroles and convoys reminded us of our nearness to the war. The
peasants were as leisurely cutting their harvest, and all the other
business of rural life was proceeding as uninterruptedly, as if there
was no possibility of an attack. Yet we afterwards learned, that the
French had, very early on the morning of this day, ineffectually
attempted the passage of the Rhine, about fifteen miles higher up; and
the firing had been distinctly heard at a little village where we dined.
One road, as short as this, lies immediately upon the margin of the
river; and, as we were assured that none but military parties were
fired at, we wished to pass it, for the purpose of observing the
ingenious methods, by which a country so circumstanced is defended;
but our postillion, who dreaded, that he might be pressed by the
Austrians, for the intrusion, refused to venture upon it, and, instead
of proceeding to Kehl, which is directly opposite to Strasbourg, we
took the road for Offenburg, about three leagues from the Rhine.
The country through which our route now lay, better as it is than more
northern parts, has suffered some positive injuries by the war. Before
this, all the little towns, from Carlsruhe downwards, maintained some
commerce with France, on their own account, and supplied carriage
for that of others. In return for provisions and coarse commodities
for manufacture, carried to Strasbourg, they received the silks and
woollens of France, to be dispersed at Franckfort, or Manheim. The
intercourse between the two countries was so frequent, that nearly
all the tradesmen, and many of the labouring persons in this part of
Germany speak a little French. The landlord of the house, where
we dined, assured us that, though his village was so small, he had
sufficient business before the war; now he was upon the point of
removing to Offenburg, being unable to pay his rent, during the
interruption of travelling.
A little before sun-set, we came to Appenweyer, one of these towns,
from the entrance of which the spires of Strasbourg were so plainly
visible that we could see the fanes glittering against the light, and
even the forms of the fortifications near the water could be traced.
In the midst of the straggling town of Appenweyer the loud sounds
of martial music and then the appearance of troops, entering at the
opposite end, surprised us. This was the advanced guard of several
Austrian regiments, on their march to re-inforce the allied army in the
Low Countries. Our postillion had drawn up, to surrender as much of
the road as possible to them, but their march was so irregular, that
they frequently thronged round the carriage; affording us sufficient
opportunity to observe how far their air corresponded with what has
been so often said of the Austrian soldiery.
Except as to their dress and arms, their appearance is not military,
according to any notion, which an Englishman is likely to have
formed; that is, there is nothing of activity, nothing of spirit, of
cheerfulness, of the correctness of discipline, or of the eagerness of
the youthful in it. There is much of ferocity, much of timid cruelty,
of sullenness, indolence and awkwardness. They dress up their faces
with mustachios, and seem extremely desirous to impress terror. How far
this may be effectual against other troops we cannot know; but they
certainly are, by their ferocious manners, and by the traits, which a
nearer view of them discloses, very terrible to the peaceful traveller.
Though now immediately under the eyes of their officers they could
scarcely refrain from petty insults, and from wishfully laying their
hands upon our baggage.
About a thousand men passed in two divisions, which had commenced their
march a few hours before, for the purpose of avoiding the heat of the
day. As we proceeded, the trodden corn in the fields shewed where they
had rested.
It was night before we reached Offenburg, where we were compelled to
lodge at a wretched inn called the Post-house, the master of the other
having that day removed to admit a new tenant; but the condition of the
lodging was of little importance, for, all night, the heavy trampling
of feet along the road below prevented sleep, and with the first dawn
the sound of martial music drew us to the windows. It seemed like a
dream, when the Austrian bands played _ça ira_, with double drums, and
cymbals thrown almost up to our casements, louder than any we had
ever heard before. This was the main body of the army, of which we had
met the advanced party. Each regiment was followed by a long train of
baggage carriages, of various and curious descriptions, some of the
cabriolets having a woman nearly in man's apparel in the front, and
behind, a large basket higher than the carriage, filled with hay. This
"tide of human existence" continued to pass for several hours. But the
whole army did not consist of more than three regiments of infantry,
among which were those of D'Arcy, and Pellegrini, and one of horse;
for each of the Austrian regiments of foot contains, when complete,
two thousand three hundred men. They had with them a small train of
artillery, and were to proceed to the Low Countries as quick as they
could march; but, so uniform are the expedients of the councils of
Vienna, that the opportunity of carrying these troops down the Rhine
in barges from Phillipsburg, where it was practicable, was not adopted,
though this method would have saved two weeks out of three, and have
landed the army unfatigued at its post.
All their regimentals were white, faced either with light blue, or
pompadour, and seemed unsuitably delicate for figures so large and
heavy. The cavalry were loaded with many articles of baggage, but their
horses appeared to be of the strongest and most serviceable kind. This
was a grand military show, which it was impossible to see without many
reflections on human nature and human misery.
Offenburg is a small town, in the Margraviate of Baden Baden,
pleasantly seated at the feet of the Bergstrasse, which the road again
approaches so near as to be somewhat obstructed by its acclivities.
Our way lay along the base of these steeps, during the whole day;
and as we drew nearer to Switzerland, their height became still more
stupendous, and the mountains of Alsace seemed advancing to meet them
in the long perspective; the plains between, through which the Rhine
gleamed in long sweeps, appeared to be entirely covered with corn, and
in the nearer scene joyous groups were loading the waggons with the
harvest. An harvest of another kind was ripening among the lower rocks
of the Bergstrasse, where the light green of the vines enlivened every
cliff, and sometimes overspread the ruinous walls of what had once been
fortresses.
We passed many villages, shaded with noble trees, which had more
appearance of comfort than any we had seen, and which were enviable for
the pleasantness of their situation; their spacious street generally
opening to the grandeur of the mountain vista, that extended to the
south. In these landscapes the peasant girl, in the simple dress of
the country, and balancing on her large straw hat an harvest keg, was a
very picturesque figure.
It was evening when we came within view of Friburg, the last city
of Germany on the borders of Switzerland, and found ourselves among
mountains, which partook of the immensity and sublimity of those of
that enchanting country. But what was our emotion, when, from an
eminence, we discovered the pointed summits of what we believed to be
the Swiss mountains themselves, a multitudinous assemblage rolled in
the far-distant prospect! This glimpse of a country of all others in
Europe the most astonishing and grand, awakened a thousand interesting
recollections and delightful expectations; while we watched with regret
even this partial vision vanishing from our eyes as we descended
towards Friburg. The mountains, that encompass this city, have so much
the character of the great, that we immediately recollect the line
of separation between Germany and Switzerland to be merely artificial,
not marked even by a river. Yet while we yield to the awful pleasure
which this eternal vastness inspires, we feel the insignificance of
our temporary nature, and, seeming more than ever conscious by what
a slender system our existence is upheld, somewhat of dejection and
anxiety mingle with our admiration.