A small town, on the west bank of the Rhine, rebuilt in uniform
streets, like Franckenthal, having been destroyed by the same exertion
of Louis the Fourteenth's cruelty. Here also the modern French had
very lately been, and some of the ruins, left near the road by Louis,
appeared to have served them for kitchens in their excursion.
At the east end of the town, towards the Rhine, stands a chateau
of the Elector, built with modern, but not very admirable taste,
and commanding the distant river in several fine points of view. We
could not be admitted to see the inside, which is said to have been
splendidly decorated; for the French had just dismantled it of the
furniture.
The road from hence to Manheim was bordered for its whole length, of
at least two miles, by rows of poplars, of which some still remain near
Oggersheim; but those within a mile and a half of Manheim have been
felled at one or two feet from the ground. This was done in December
1793, when the French began to advance from Landau, and were expected
to besiege Manheim, their operations against which might have been
covered, in some measure, by this noble alley.
Near the Rhine, the road is now commanded by two forts, of which one
was thrown up during the approach of the French, and completed in the
middle of the summer, with great care. These contribute much to the
present security of the city, which might otherwise be bombarded from
the opposite bank of the river, even by an enemy, who should not be
able and should not propose to attempt the conquest of the place. They
are ditched and pallisadoed, but, being divided from the body of the
city, by the Rhine, are, of course, without the communication, which
renders such works capable of a long defence. Round one of these forts,
the road now winds, entering a part of the works, near the bridge,
where there is a guard-house for the troops of the Elector.