We had a curiosity to see this place, which, under the name of Seltzer,
is so celebrated throughout Europe, for its medicinal water. Though it
is rather in the high road to Franckfort than to Mentz, there seemed
no probability of inconvenience in making this short departure from
our route, when it was to be joined again from a place of such public
access as Selters appeared likely to be found.
About seven miles from Limbourg, a descent commences, at the bottom
of which stands this village. What a reproof to the expectation
of comfort, or convenience in Germany! Selters, a spot, to which a
valetudinarian might be directed, with the prospect of his finding not
only abundant accommodation, but many luxuries, Selters is literally
and positively nothing more than an assemblage of miserable cottages,
with one inn and two houses for officers of the Elector, stuck in a
dirty pass, which more resembles a ditch than a road. The village may
be said to be near half a mile long, because the huts, being mostly
separated from each other, continue as far; and this length would
increase its inconvenience to invalids, if such should ever stay there
longer than to see it, for there is nothing like a swept path-way, and
the road, in which they must walk, is probably always deeply covered
with mud, being so when we were there in the beginning of July. There
was then, however, not one stranger, besides ourselves, in the place,
and we found, that very rarely any aggravate the miseries of sickness
by a stay at Selters.
The only lodgings to be had are at the inn, and fortunately for
travellers this is not such as might be expected from the appearance of
the village. Finding there the novelty of an obliging host and hostess,
we were very well contented to have reached it, at night, though we
were to stay there also the next day, being Sunday. The rooms are as
good as those in the inns of German cities, and three, which are called
Court Chambers, having been used by the Elector and lately by the King
of Prussia, are better. These are as open as the others to strangers.
The spring is at the foot of one of several hills, which immediately
surround the village, and is separated from the road by a small court
yard. An oaken covering, at the height of ten or twelve feet, prevents
rain from falling into the wooden bason, in which the stream rises;
and two or three of the Elector's guards watch over it, that no
considerable quantity may be taken, without payment of the duty, which
forms a large part of his income. Many thousands of stone bottles are
piled round this court, and, for the reputation of the spring, care is
taken to fill them as immediately as possible, before their removal for
exportation.
The policy of keeping this income intire is said to be a motive for
neglecting the condition of the village. A duty could not well be
demanded of those, who should drink at the spring, but is easily
collected before the water is bottled for removal; it is, therefore,
not wished, that there should be many visitors, at Selters. We did
not hear this reason upon the spot, but it is difficult otherwise
to account for a negligence, which prevents the inhabitants of the
neighbouring country from being enriched at the expence of wanderers
from others.
Nor is it only a duty, but the whole profit of the traffick, till the
water leaves the place, which rewards the care of the Elector. His
office for the sale of it is established here, and his agents alone
transmit it into foreign countries. The business is sufficient to
employ several clerks, and the number of bottles annually filled is so
immense, that, having omitted to write it down, we will not venture to
mention it from memory. The water is brought to table constantly and
at an easy price in all the towns near the Rhine. Mixed with Rhenish
wine and sugar it forms a delightful, but not always a safe beverage,
in hot weather. The acid of the wine, expelling the fixed air of other
ingredients, occasions an effervescence, like that of Champagne, but
the liquor has not a fourth part of the obnoxious strength of the
latter. The danger of drinking it is, that the acid may be too powerful
for some constitutions.
After being surprised by the desolateness of the village, we were not
less so to find amongst its few inhabitants one, whose manners and
information, so far from bearing the character of the dreariness around
him, were worthy of the best society in the most intelligent cities.
This was the Commissary and Privy Counsellor of the Elector for the
district, who, having heard, that there were some English visitors at
the well, very frankly introduced himself to us by his civilities, and
favoured us with his company in the afternoon. He had been in England,
with many valuable introductions, and had formed from the talents and
accomplishments of a distinguished Marquis an high opinion of the
national character; a circumstance, which probably united with his
natural disposition, in inducing him to emulate towards us the general
politeness of that truly honourable person.
When we enquired how the journey of the next day was to be performed,
it appeared, that no other carriage could be hired in the place than
a sort of one-horse chair, which would take us to the next post town,
from whence we might proceed with the usual chaises. The driver walked
at the side of this uncouth carriage, which had shafts and wheels
strong enough for a waggon; and, either by the mistake or intention of
his master in directing him, we were led, not to the post town, for a
chaise, if it could be had, but entirely through a forest country to
Mentz, by roads made only for the woodcutters, and, as it afterwards
proved, known to few others, except to our ingenious voiturier. We did
not pass a town, or village, at which it was possible to change the
carriage, and had, therefore, no other alternative, when the mistake
was discovered, than to return to Selters, or to proceed to Mentz, in
this inconvenient and ludicrous vehicle. We chose to proceed, and had
some reward for fatigue, by passing nearly an whole day under the shade
of deep and delightful forests, little tamed by the hand of man, and
appearing to acknowledge only "the season's difference."
Between Selters and these forests, the country is well cultivated, and
frequently laid out in garden-fields, in which there was the first
appearance of cheerful labour we had seen in Germany. After passing a
small town, on the summit of a hill to the left, still surrounded by
its antient fortifications, we entered a large plain, skirted, on one
side, by villages; another town, at the end of which, was almost the
last sign of an inhabited country, that appeared for several hours.
The forest then commenced, and, with the exception of one hamlet,
enveloped near the middle, we saw nothing but lofty oaks, elms and
chesnuts, till we emerged from it in the afternoon, and came to a town
of the Landgrave of Hesse Darmstadt. Roebucks are said to be numerous,
and wild boars not very scarce, in this forest; but we saw none either
here, or in those near Limbourg, which are much inferior to this in
beauty. Upon the whole, it was a scene of perfect novelty; without
which it now seems that we should have wanted many ideas of sylvan life
and much of the delight, excited by Shakespeare's exquisite description
of it.