COBLENTZ.

It is one post from Andernach hither, over a road, as good as any in

England. Beyond the dominions of the Elector of Cologne, the face of

the country, on this side of the Rhine, entirely changes its character.

The rocks cease, at Andernach, and a rich plain commences, along

which the road is led, at a greater distance from the Rhine, through

corn lands and uninclosed orchards. About a mile from Andernach, on

the other side of the river, the white town of Neuwiedt, the capital

of a small Protestant principality, is seen; and the general report,

that it is one of the most commercial places, on the Rhine, appeared

to be true from the cheerful neatness of the principal street, which

faces towards the water. There were also about twenty small vessels,

lying before it, and the quay seemed to be wide enough to serve as a

spacious terrace to the houses. The Prince's palace, an extensive stone

building, with a lofty orangery along the shore, is at the end of this

street, which, as well as the greatest part of the town, was built, or

improved under the auspices of his father; a wise prince, distinguished

by having negotiated, in 1735, a peace between the Empire and France,

when the continuance of the war had seemed to be inevitable. The

same benevolence led him to a voluntary surrender of many oppressive

privileges over his subjects, as well as to the most careful protection

of commerce and manufactures. Accordingly, the town of Neuwiedt has

been continually increasing in prosperity and size, for the last fifty

years, and the inhabitants of the whole principality are said to be as

much more qualified in their characters as they are happier in their

conditions than those of the neighbouring states. But then there is

the _wretchedness_ of a deficiency of game in the country, for the late

Prince was guilty of such an innovation as to mitigate the severity of

the laws respecting it.

The forest hills, that rise behind Neuwiedt and over the rocky margin

of the river, extend themselves towards the more rugged mountains of

Wetteravia, which are seen, a shapeless multitude, in the east.

The river is soon after lost to the view between high, sedgy banks;

but, near Coblentz, the broad bay, which it makes in conjunction

with the Moselle, is seen expanding between the walls of the city

and the huge pyramidal precipice, on which stands the fortress of

Ehrenbreitstein, or rather which is itself formed into that fortress.

The Moselle is here a noble river, by which the streams of a thousand

hills, covered with vines, pour themselves into the Rhine. The antient

stone bridge over it leads to the northern gate of Coblentz, and the

entrance into the city is ornamented by several large chateau-like

mansions, erected to command a view of the two rivers. A narrow street

of high, but antient houses then commences, and runs through the

place. Those, which branch from it, extend, on each side, towards the

walls, immediately within which there are others, that nearly follow

their course and encompass the city. Being built between two rivers,

its form is triangular, and only one side is entirely open to the

land; a situation so convenient both for the purposes of commerce and

war, that it could not be overlooked by the Romans, and was not much

neglected by the moderns, till the industry of maritime countries and

the complicated constitution of the Empire reduced Germany in the scale

of nations. This was accordingly the station of the first legion,

and the union of the two rivers gave it a name; _Confluentia_. At

the commencement of the modern division of nations, the successors

of Charlemagne frequently resided here, for the convenience of an

intercourse between the other parts of the Empire and France; but,

in the eleventh century, the whole territory of Treves regained the

distinction, as a separate country, which the Romans had given it, by

calling the inhabitants _Treveri_.

Coblentz is a city of many spires, and has establishments of chapters

and monasteries, which make the great pride of German capitals, and

are sometimes the chief objects, that could distinguish them from the

neglected villages of other countries. The streets are not all narrow,

but few of them are straight; and the same pavement serves for the

horses of the Elector and the feet of his subjects. The port, or beach,

has the appearance of something more business than that of Andernach,

being the resort of passage-vessels between Mentz and Cologne; but

the broad quay, which has been raised above it, is chiefly useful as

a promenade to the visitors of a close and gloomy town. Beyond the

terrace stands the Elector's palace, an elegant and spacious stone

edifice, built to the height of three stories, and inclosing a court,

which is large enough to be light as well as magnificent. The front

towards the Rhine is simple, yet grand, the few ornaments being so well

proportioned to its size, as neither to debase it by minuteness, nor

encumber it by vastness. An entablature, displaying some allegorical

figures in bas relief, is supported by six Doric columns, which

contribute much to the majestic simplicity of the edifice. The palace

was built, about ten years since, by the reigning Elector, who

mentions, in an inscription, his attention to the architectural art;

and a fountain, between the building and the town, is inscribed with a

few words, which seem to acknowledge his subjects as beings of the

same species with himself; CLEMENS WINCESLAUS VICINIS SUIS.

But the most striking parts of the view from this quay are the rock

and fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, that present themselves immediately

before it, on the other side of the river; notwithstanding the breadth

of which they appear, to rise almost perpendicularly over Coblentz. At

the base of the rock stands a large building, formerly the palace of

the Electors, who chose to reside under the immediate protection of

the fortress, rather than in the midst of their capital. Adjoining it

is the village of Ehrenbreitstein, between which and Coblentz a flying

bridge is continually passing, and, with its train of subordinate

boats, forms a very picturesque object from the quay. The fortress

itself consists of several tier of low walls, built wherever there was

a projection in the rock capable of supporting them, or wherever

the rock could be hewn so as to afford room for cannon and soldiers.

The stone, taken out of the mass, served for the formation of the

walls, which, in some places, can scarcely be distinguished from the

living rock. Above these tier, which are divided into several small

parts, according to the conveniences afforded by the cliff, is built

the castle, or citadel, covering its summit, and surrounded by walls

more regularly continued, as well as higher. Small towers, somewhat in

the antient form, defend the castle, which would be of little value,

except for its height, and for the gradations of batteries between it

and the river. Thus protected, it seems impregnable on that side, and

is said to be not much weaker on the other; so that the garrison, if

they should be willing to fire upon Coblentz, might make it impossible

for an enemy to remain within it, except under the cover of very high

entrenchments. This is the real defence of the city, for its walls

would presently fall before heavy artillery; and this, it is believed,

might be preserved as long as the garrison could be supplied with

stores.

We crossed the river from the quay to the fortress, by means of the

very simple invention, a flying bridge. That, by which part of the

passage of the Waal is made at Nimeguen, has been already mentioned;

this is upon the same principle, but on a much larger scale. After

the barges, upon which the platform is laid, are clear of the bank,

the whole passage is effected with no other labour than that of the

rudder. A strong cable, which is fastened to an anchor at each side

of the river, is supported across it by a series of small boats; the

bridge has two low masts, one on each barge, and these are connected

at the top by a beam, over which the cable is passed, being confined

so as that it cannot slip beyond them. When the bridge is launched,

the rapidity of the current forces it down the Rhine as far as the

cable will permit: having reached that point, the force, received

from the current, gives it the only direction of which it is capable,

that across the river, with the cable which holds it. The steersman

manages two rudders, by which he assists in giving it this direction.

The voyage requires nine or ten minutes, and the bridge is continually

passing. The toll, which, for a foot passenger, is something less than

a penny, is paid, for the benefit of the Elector, at an office, on the

bank, and a sentinel always accompanies the bridge, to support his

government, during the voyage.

The old palace of Ehrenbreitstein, deserted because of its dampness,

and from the fear of its being overwhelmed by the rock, that sometimes

scatters its fragments upon it, is now used as a barrack and hospital

for soldiers. It is a large building, even more pleasantly situated

than the new one, being opposite to the entrance of the Moselle into

the Rhine; and its structure, which has been once magnificent, denotes

scarcely any other decay, than all buildings will shew, after a few

years' neglect. The rock has allowed little room for a garden, but

there are some ridiculous ornaments upon a very narrow strip of ground,

which was probably intended for one.

The only entrance into the fortress, on this side, is by a road,

cut in the solid rock, under four gateways. It is so steep, that we

were compelled to decline the honour of admission, but ascended it

far enough to judge of the view, commanded from the summit, and to

be behind the batteries, of which some were mounted with large brass

cannon. Coblentz lies beneath it, as open to inspection as a model upon

a table. The sweeps of the Rhine and the meanders of the Moselle, the

one binding the plain, the other intersecting it, lead the eye towards

distant hills, that encircle the capacious level. The quay of the city,

with the palace and the moving bridge, form an interesting picture

immediately below, and we were unwilling to leave the rock for the dull

and close streets of Coblentz. On our return, the extreme nakedness of

the new palace, which is not sheltered by trees, on any side, withdrew

our attention from the motley group of passengers, mingled with hay

carts and other carriages, on the flying bridge.

The long residence of the emigrant princes and noblesse of France in

this city is to be accounted for not by its general accommodations, or

gaieties, of which it is nearly as deficient as the others of Germany;

but first by the great hospitality of the Elector towards them, and

then by the convenience of its situation for receiving intelligence

from France, and for communicating with other countries. The Elector

held frequent levies for the French nobility, and continued for them

part of the splendour which they had enjoyed in their own country. The

readiness for lending money upon property, or employments in France,

was also so great, that those, who had not brought cash with them, were

immediately supplied, and those, who had, were encouraged to continue

their usual expences. We know it from some of the best possible

authority, that, at the commencement of the march towards Longwy,

money, at four per cent. was even pressed upon many, and that large

sums were refused.

Here, and in the neighbourhood, between sixty and seventy squadrons

of cavalry, consisting chiefly of those who had formerly enjoyed

military, or other rank, were formed; each person being mounted and

equipped chiefly at his own expence. We heard several anecdotes of

the confidence, entertained in this army, of a speedy arrival in Paris;

but, as the persons, to whom they relate, are now under the pressure of

misfortune, there would be as little pleasure as propriety in repeating

them.

At Coblentz, we quitted, for a time, the left bank of the Rhine, in

order to take the watering place of Selters, in our way to Mentz.

Having crossed the river and ascended a steep road, near the fortress,

we had fine glimpses of its walls, bastions and out-towers, and the

heathy knolls, around them, with catches of distant country. The way

continued to lie through the dominions of the Elector of Treves, which

are here so distinguished for their wretchedness as to be named the

_Siberia of Germany_! It is paved, and called a _chaussée_; but those,

who have not experienced its ruggedness, can have no idea of it,

except by supposing the pavement of a street torn up by a plough, and

then suffered to fix itself, as it had fallen. Always steep, either

in ascent or descent, it is not only the roughness, that prevents

your exceeding the usual post-pace of three English miles an hour.

Sometimes it runs along edges of mountains, that might almost be called

precipices, and commands short views of other mountains and of vallies

entirely covered with thick, but not lofty forests; sometimes it buries

itself in the depths of such forests and glens; sometimes the turrets

of an old chateau peep above these, but rather confirm than contradict

the notion of their desolateness, having been evidently built for the

purposes of the chace; and sometimes a mud village surprises you with a

few inhabitants, emblems of the misery and savageness of the country.

These are the mountains of Wetteravia, the boundaries of many a former

and far-seen prospect, then picturesque, sublime, or graceful, but

now desolate, shaggy, and almost hideous; as in life, that, which

is so grand as to charm at a distance, is often found to be forlorn,

disgustful and comfortless by those, who approach it.