From San Francisco to Honolulu--Storm and Sea-sickness
In early days in California everything was valued at a high price.
There were ten of us, Elders, who wanted to get passage from San
Francisco to Honolulu, the principal town on the Sandwich Islands.
After trying for some days we succeeded in obtaining a passage between
decks on the good ship _Imaum of Muscat_, Captain Ritches, commander.
We had to find our own bedding; but the captain agreed to furnish us
food, which we were told was to be the same as they had in the cabin.
Either this part of the contract was not fulfilled, or they lived
poorly in the cabin; for our fare was not very inviting. But we thought
we were fortunate in not having to pay more than $40 in gold for the
passage and these privileges.
I have seen places that were more comfortable than our quarters between
decks. I have been on the sea many times since, and I believe, if I
had my choice, I would take a trip as a cabin passenger on a Cunard
steamship in preference to a voyage on the _Imaum of Muscat_, with its
cabin fare and the privilege of sleeping in my own blankets.
The _Imaum_ was low between decks, and then it was so dark there, that
for a few minutes after descending, we could see nothing. We had had
some rough experience, however, since leaving our homes, and we were
not disposed to find fault with our ship or her accommodations.
For one week after embarking we lay in the bay of San Francisco, head
winds preventing our sailing. This was tiresome to us, and did not
suit the captain, for he had to feed us, at least a part of the time.
Probably this week's delay helped him to conclude that cabin fare was
too good for us. As soon as the wind became at all favorable, the pilot
thought it best to get ready for sea, and when the tide turned to go
out, about one o'clock in the afternoon, we hoisted sail and started.
My recollections of passing out of the Golden Gate, as the mouth of
San Francisco harbor is called, are not very pleasant. We had to beat
out, that is, tack from side to side, and the swell came in from the
ocean in large, heavy, rolling waves. On each side we could see a long
line of breakers running seaward, the foam looking in the distance like
large banks of snow.
We had not passed through the Gate when we began to be sea-sick. Those
ocean swells will produce sea-sickness very quickly. There was no place
on deck to be sick without being in the way, so we ran below. I vomited
freely and felt relieved, and then went on deck again. The sun was
declining in the west, and the sky was angry-looking and threatening,
giving every indication of a storm. We were outside the heads, and
before us stretched the great Pacific; but there were islands around,
of which the captain knew but little. He did not like the idea of the
pilot leaving him in such a position with darkness approaching and
every prospect of a storm.
If the captain was anxious to have the pilot remain, the latter was
equally desirous of getting away from the ship before nightfall. He
had no wish to remain through the storm and to run the risk of being
carried out to sea; so when a pilot boat hove in sight, he hailed it,
and descended into the little yawl which came from it for him in such
haste that he forgot his water-proof coat.
It was very natural, I suppose, for him after piloting the ship out of
the harbor, to be eager to get back before the storm broke upon us; but
I believe we all should have felt better if he had remained with us.
The captain, especially, felt the responsibility of his position. Here
he was outside of a strange harbor, on a dangerous coast, with a strong
wind blowing directly on shore, and darkness upon him and he ignorant
of his surroundings!
We had no time to indulge in many reflections upon the subject. Our
time was occupied in another direction, for we were all suffering
severely from the effects of sea-sickness; and notwithstanding the
dangers of our situation, the sense of the ridiculous, in my case--only
one bucket among us for every purpose--overcame fear, and I could not
help laughing.
Many of our Elders and foreign settlers have been in a similar
position, and all such can imagine our feelings better than I can
describe them. My levity, however, under circumstances so inconvenient
and perplexing, offended one of the Elders so much that he reprimanded
me for it.
While we were thus engaged, the noise on deck was very great. The
captain had as first mate a half-caste East Indian, and the most of
his hands were Malays. His orders to the mate, and the latter's cries
to the hands, and their chattering to one another, made a clamor that
sounded loud above the noise of the storm.
Right in the midst of our sickness we heard the startling cry from the
mate of "breakers ahead," and that we were close upon them. At any
other time this would have excited us; but we were so sick we did not
mind it.
Shortly after this, we felt the vessel strike something solid, and she
trembled from stem to stem; this was directly followed by a grating
sound and a thumping at the stern. The first thought was that she had
struck a reef; but as we felt her settle in the trough of the sea, we
knew that if she had struck, she had passed over it.
The shock that we felt was caused by a heavy breaker striking us; it
had broken the wheel ropes, and the grating noise that we heard was the
thumping of the helm. Had the breaker gone over us it would have swept
the decks clean, or, had the wheel ropes broken a short time before, it
is probable the vessel would have been lost.
In considering our narrow escape, afterwards, we felt to give the glory
of our deliverance to God. We were His servants, and on His business,
and He had preserved us.
That night was one of great anxiety to the captain, officers and crew.
Notwithstanding our sickness, we also realized that we were in a
critical position, and exerted all the faith we could.
The captain had his wife with him, and so little hope did he have
at one time of saving the vessel, that he told her to prepare for
eternity, for he did not think we would ever see daylight in this world
again.
At last the morning dawned, the storm died away, and we were enabled to
take our course.
Oh, the blessed daylight! How joyfully it was hailed on board that
vessel! It did not relieve us from our sea-sickness, but it did from
our peril.
Several days elapsed before the captain recovered from his fatigue and
hoarseness, caused by shouting his orders that night.
The _Imaum of Muscat_ was bound for the East Indies, but was to touch
at the Sandwich Islands. We were glad that we had to go no farther, so
it was with positive delight that we learned after being nearly four
weeks on board, that we would soon be at the end of our voyage.
The sight of land is most welcome to those who have been weeks at
sea, especially if they have suffered from sea-sickness. To our eyes,
therefore, the rough, mountainous isles of the Hawaiian group were very
beautiful. We longed to tread upon them.
For myself, I was scarcely intended for a sailor. I am very easily made
sick by the motion of a vessel on the water, and no amount of going
to sea prevents this. Some years since, while crossing the Atlantic,
I lay sea-sick in my berth, and to divert my mind, I tried to recall
the number of different times I had been in that condition. I counted
upwards of fifty distinct occasions that I had suffered from this
sensation, and I have been sea-sick a number of times since.
During the night we passed the island of Hawaii, the largest of the
group, and the one on which Captain Cook, the first white man (so far
as known) who discovered these islands, was killed.
The next morning the island of Maui was seen in the distance. Then
Molokai and Lanai; and the morning following, when we arose, we were
sailing alongside of Oahu, the island on which the town of Honolulu,
the capital of the kingdom, is situated.