The scenery is the same that Fernando Cortés looked upon, so

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The Story of the Nations.

MEXICO

* * * * * *

THE STORY OF THE NATIONS.

_Large Crown 8vo, Cloth, Illustrated, 5s._

1. ROME. ARTHUR GILMAN, M.A.

2. THE JEWS. Prof. J. K. HOSMER.

3. GERMANY. Rev. S. BARING-GOULD, M.A.

4. CARTHAGE. Prof. A. J. CHURCH.

5. ALEXANDER'S EMPIRE. Prof J. P. MAHAFFY.

6. THE MOORS IN SPAIN. STANLEY LANE-POOLE.

7. ANCIENT EGYPT. Canon RAWLINSON.

8. HUNGARY. Prof. A. VAMBÉRY.

9. THE SARACENS. A. GILMAN, M.A.

10. IRELAND. Hon. EMILY LAWLESS.

11. CHALDÆA. Z. A. RAGOZIN.

12. THE GOTHS. HENRY BRADLEY.

13. ASSYRIA. Z. A. RAGOZIN.

14. TURKEY. STANLEY LANE-POOLE.

15. HOLLAND. Prof. J. E. THOROLD ROGERS.

16. MEDIÆVAL FRANCE. Prof. GUSTAVE MASSON.

17. PERSIA. S. G. W. BENJAMIN.

18. PHOENICIA. Canon RAWLINSON.

19. MEDIA. Z. A. RAGOZIN.

20. THE HANSA TOWNS. HELEN ZIMMERN.

21. EARLY BRITAIN. Prof. A. J. CHURCH.

22. THE BARBARY CORSAIRS. STANLEY LANE-POOLE.

23. RUSSIA. W. R. MORFILL, M.A.

24. THE JEWS UNDER ROMAN RULE. W. D. MORRISON.

25. SCOTLAND. JOHN MACKINTOSH, LL.D.

26. SWITZERLAND. Mrs. LINA HUG and RICHARD STEAD.

27. MEXICO. SUSAN HALE.

London: T. FISHER UNWIN, Paternoster Square, E.C.

* * * * * *

[Illustration: THE CONVENT OF CAPUCHINAS. (LAST PRISON OF MAXIMILIAN.)]

MEXICO

by

SUSAN HALE

London

T. Fisher Unwin

Paternoster Square

New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons

MDCCCXCI

Entered at Stationers' Hall

By T. Fisher Unwin

Copyright by G. P. Putnam's Sons

(For the United States of America).

CONTENTS.

I.

PAGE

THE SUBJECT 1-11

View from a steamer, 1--Seen by Fernando Cortés, 2; his

ambition, 3--Inhospitable coast, 3--Vera Cruz, 4--Departure,

4--Climate we leave, 5--Climate we are seeking, 5--Three

climates of Mexico, 6--Anahuac, 6; _Tierra templada_,

7--Scenery of the plateau, 7--Its early inhabitants, 8--Destroyed

by Cortés, 8--Traditions of Anahuac, 9--_Teocallis_

changed to cathedrals, 9--The _Conquistadores_, 10--Spanish

rulers, 10--Two emperors, 10--Mexico a republic, 11;

its past and future, 11.

II.

SHADOWY TRIBES 12-23

Meaning of Anahuac, 12--Tula, formerly Tollan, 13--The

Toltecs, 13--Cholula: its legends, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19,

20--Mound builders, 21--Legends of the Nahuas, 21--Huehue-Tlapallan,

22--Atlantis, 22--Noah of the Mexican

tribes, 22--Universal fable of the deluge, 23.

III.

TRADITIONS OF THE TOLTECS 24-37

Their wanderings, 24; ruins of their capital, 26; their resources,

26; language, 27; early faith, 27--Cuernavaca, 28--Toluca,

28--Power of their ruler, 29--Quetzalcoatl,

The Shining Snake, 29; legends of his career, 30;

possible facts, 32; mystery of his departure, 32; image in the

museum, 33; his attributes, 33--Evil days of the Toltecs,

34--The Agave Americana, 34; its properties, 35--Maguey,

35--Xochitl, 36; her beverage, 36--Deterioration of the

Toltecs, 37; dates of their wanderings, 37.

IV.

CHICHIMECS 38-44

A new dynasty, 38--The Chichimecs, 39; occupations and

customs, 39--The mark of a warrior, 39--The Serpent of

the Clouds, 40--The invasion of Xolotl, 40--Fall of Tollan,

41--Territory of Xolotl, 41--New waves of emigration,

42--Wise rulers, 42--Texcuco, 42--The Aztecs, 43--War

with Atzcapotzalco, 44--Kingdom of Texcuco, 44.

V.

NEZAHUALCOYOTL 45-52

The young prince, 45; in captivity, 45; a faithful friend,

46--Tlaxcaza, 46--The plateau to-day, 46--The Malinche,

46--The Land of Bread, 47--A wise tutor, 47--Maxtla,

48--The homage of Nezahualcoyotl, 48--Maxtla's plot, 48--Open

enmity, 49--Nezahualcoyotl's escape, 49; his

hiding, 50--Tyranny of Maxtla, 50--The true prince

triumphant, 51--Maxtla defeated and killed, 51--The

kingdom of Texcuco Acolhuacan, 52.

VI.

TEXCUCO 53-61

The Golden Age, 53--The government, 53--Council of

Music, 53--Texcucan literature, 54--Lost treasures, 54--A

royal poet, 55--The Laughing Hill, 56--Artificial lakes,

56--Ruins of Tezcotzinco, 56--Baths of Montezuma, 57--A

blot on Nezahualcoyotl's fame, 57; a Mexican Haroun

al Raschid, 58; his religion, 59--From anarchy to civilization,

59--Nezahualpilli, 59--Decline of Texcuco, 60--A

Texcucan historian, 60--Legend or fact? 61.

VII.

MICHOACAN 62-69

The Land of Fish, 62--Lonely lakes, 62--Patzcuaro, 63--The

Place of Delights, 64--The first settlers, 64--Iré

Titatacamé, 65--A dusky princess, 65--Tixiacurí, the first

king of Michoacan, 66--The kingdom divided, 66--Tzintzuntzan,

67--The glorious reign of Zovanga, 67--A city of

birds, 67--Fruitless excavations, 68--The Tarascans, 68.

VIII.

MAYAS 70-82

The first wave of migration, 70--Traces of Mayas in

Yucatan, 70--A great empire, 71--Nachan, the town of serpents,

72; its ruins discovered, 72--Palace at Palenque, 72--Lofty

chambers and strange bas-reliefs, 73--The Temple of

the Cross, 74--An emblem of Christian faith, 75--Meaning

of the tablets, 75--Chichen-Itza, 76--A religious centre, 77--Paintings

and bas-reliefs, 78--Chaak Mool, the tiger-chief,

78--The beautiful Kinich, 78--Tomb of Chaak

Mool, 78--Paved roads of Yucatan, 79--Votan and Zamna,

80--Mayan legends, 80--Weapons and armor, 81--War

with the Toltecs, 82.

IX.

AZTECS 83-95

Best known of the Anahuac tribes, 83--Aztlan, 83--The

migration, 84--Six centuries of wanderings, 84--The name

Mexican, 84,--Their adopted home, 84--Chapultepec, 86--Driven

to the islands, 87--A wretched life, 87--Valor of

the slaves, 87--An abiding city, 87--Tenochtitlan, or

Mexico, 88--Advances in civilization, 88--Results of modern

research, 89--A king chosen, 90--Early years of the

kingdom, 91--The Princess of Cloth, 92--_Canoas_, 92--Chimalpopoca,

94--The usurpation, 94--Maxtla, 95.

X.

MEXICANS 96-110

Itzcoatl, 96--Alliance with Texcuco, 96--War with Maxtla,

96--Victory of the allies, 97--Fall of the Tepanec

monarchy, 97--"The Valley Confederates," 98--Reign of

Motecuhzoma, 98--Height of the Mexican power, 98--Conquest

of the Chalcas, 99--Inundation and famine, 99--Raid

upon neighboring provinces, 100--Laws of Motecuhzoma,

100; his successor, 101--Tizoc, 101--The Drinking-cup

of the Eagle, 101--Human sacrifice, 102--Temple

built by Tizoc, 105--Dikes, 105--A despot, 106--Extent of

the kingdom, 106--Religious fanaticism, 108--Doubtful

records, 109.

XI.

AZTEC CHARACTER 111-123

Unreliable testimony, 111--Hieroglyphics, 111--Paintings,

112--"Wanderings of the Aztecs," 112--Religion, 114--A

future life, 114--Funeral customs, 114--Domestic life, 115--Laws,

115--Music, 115--The Aztec calendar, 115--Divisions

of time, 116--Names of days, etc., 117--Opinions of

antiquarians, 117--The cycle, 118--Unlucky days, 118--Agriculture,

119--Irrigation, 119--A gentle race, 120--The

Priestesses, 121--Coatlicue, the goddess of the earth, 122--Source

of Aztec greatness, 122--A fatal policy, 123.

XII.

THE LAST OF THE MONTEZUMAS 124-134

Motecuhzoma Xocoyotzin, 124; his character, 124--A

coronation festival, 125--Royal robes, 125--The life of

an Aztec king, 126; his capital, 126--Diaz's description, 127--A

life of pleasure, 128--State correspondence, 128--Chapultepec,

129--Montezuma's cypress, 129--Clouds on the

horizon, 130--Sinister predictions, 130--The coming of the

white men, 131--An unhappy monarch, 131--Landing of

the strangers, 132--Velasquez de Léon, 132; his expedition

to Yucatan, 133--Grijalva visits Mexico, 133--Montezuma's

embassy, 133.

XIII.

CORTÉS 135-144

Birth, 135; enters the army, 135; visits Cuba, 135--An

attractive portrait, 135--Defects of character, 136--Velasquez

and Grijalva's expedition, 136--A love story, 137--Cortés

receives a commission, 137; his companions, 137--Jealousy

of Velasquez, 137--The squadron, 138--Jérome

d' Aguilar, 138--First conflict with the Aztecs, 139--Palm

Sunday, 139--A happy people, 140--Rumors of danger,

140--Presents to the strangers, 141--Cortés as Quetzalcoatl,

141--Easter, 141--A perplexed council, 142--Mistaken

policy, 142--Vera Cruz, 142--Cortés visits Cempoallan,

143--Tlaxcalla, 143--The ships destroyed, 144.

XIV.

MALINTZI 145-150

Her birthplace, 145--The little duchess is made a slave,

145--Life in Tabasco, 146--Arrival of Cortés, 146--Treaty

of alliance, 146--The heiress-slave becomes a Christian, 146--Marina

or Malinche, 146--A new interpreter, 147--A

beautiful picture, 147--Splendid gifts, 148--Malintzi's

beauty, 149; her devotion to Cortés, 149; its result, 149.

XV.

TLAXCALLA 151-157

An isolated province, 151--Exaggerated reports, 151--Efforts

for the friendship of the Tlaxcallans, 152--A trap

for the Spaniards, 152--A battle, 152--Defeat of the Tlaxcallans,

153--Peace concluded, 153--Christianity introduced,

153--Cholula, 154--Slaughter of the Cholultecas,

154--Alliance with Ixtlilxochitl, 154--Cacamatzin imprisoned,

155--Cortés reaches Mexico, 156--Cortés and Montezuma,

157--A lesson and a vow, 157.

XVI.

LA NOCHE TRISTE 158-165

Overtures of friendship, 158--Bold measures, 159--Montezuma

in the power of the Spaniards, 159--A rival in the

field, 159--Alvarado, 160--The feast of Huitzilopochtli,

160--The Spaniards in danger, 160--Death of Montezuma,

161--Mexican traditions, 162--Cortés abandons the city,

163--A desperate struggle, 163--_La Noche Triste_, 164--The

scene of the battle, 164; the losses, 165.

XVII.

CONQUEST 166-179

An interval of peace, 166--The new emperor, 166--A

legacy of the Spaniards, 167--Cortés _in extremis_, 167--The

Aztec army, 168--Battle at Otumba, 170--The Spaniards

victorious, 170--Preparations for defence, 171--The Spaniards

in Tlaxcalla, 171--Ixtlilxochitl, 171--Cortés at

Texcuco, 172--A new army and a new fleet, 172--The

campaign against Mexico, 173--Suffering in the city, 174--Surrender,

174--The city destroyed, 175--Cortés at

Coyoacán, 175--Search for treasures, 175--The kings

tortured, 175--Military rule, 176--Subjugation of Michoacan,

176--Later conquests, 177--Death of the Aztec kings,

178--Later life of Cortés, 178; return to Spain, 178; death,

178; burial in Mexico, 179.

XVIII.

DOÑA MARINA 180-183

Her position in the camp, 180--After the victory, 180--Life

at Coyoacán, 180--Arrival of Doña Catalina, 181;

her death, 182--Insurrection in Honduras, 182--Marriage

of Marina, 183; her later life and her death, 183--Cortés

visits Spain, 183--A second marriage, 183.

XIX.

INDIANS 184-190

The conquest complete, 184--The name Indian, 184--Origin

of the Nahuatl tribes, 185--Distinguished from the

North American Indian, 186--Military government, 188--The

_Ayuntamiento_, 188--The _Audiencia_, 188--Nuño de

Guzman, 189; his cruelty to the natives, 189--Guadalajara

founded, 189--A second _Audiencia_, 189--A viceroy appointed,

190--Extent of New Spain, 190.

XX.

THE FIRST OF THE VICEROYS 191-202

Antonio de Mendoza, 191; his family and character, 191--Reforms

instituted, 191--Industries encouraged, 192--The

Franciscans, 192--Fray Pedro, 192--Foundation of schools

and colleges, 193--Guadalajara and Valladolid, 193--Michoacan

and its people, 194--The founding of a city,

195--Spanish families in Mexico, 196--Jews and Moors

banished, 196--Vasco de Quiroga, 197; his life in Tarasco,

197; his church at Tzintzuntzan, 198--A wonderful picture,

198--The cathedral at Morelia, 199--Cortés goes to Spain,

200--Popularity of the viceroy, 200--First Mexican book,

202--Departure of Mendoza, 202.

XXI.

FRAY MARTIN DE VALENCIA 203-213

Don Luis de Velasco, second viceroy, 203--New institutions

and industries, 203--Puebla de los Angeles, 204; the

tradition of its founding, 204; the situation, 206--The early

ecclesiastics, 207--The worship of the Virgin, 207--The

"twelve apostles of Mexico," 208--Fray Martin of

Valencia, 208; his life in Amecameca, 209; his death, 210--Relics

of Fray Martin, 211--An object of reverence, 212--Death

of Velasco, 212--A well-regulated government, 213.

XXII.

OTHER VICEROYS 214-223

Events in Spain, 214--Philip II., 214--The character of the

viceroys, 215--The Inquisition, 216--The _Quemadero_, 216--Death

of Philip, 217--Inundations, 217--Martinez and his

canal, 218--Successors of Philip, 219--Wars of succession,

220--Revillagigedo, 220; anecdotes of his administration,

221.

XXIII.

HUMBOLDT 224-232

A distinguished visitor, 224; he arrives in Mexico, 225--Remarks

on the carving, 225--Academy of fine arts, 226; its

later history, 227--The cathedral, 227--Humboldt at

Chapultepec, 228; The market, 228--Teotihuacan, 229--Mexican

mines, 229--Valenciana, 229--At Patzcuaro, 230--The

birth of a volcano, 231.

XXIV.

REVOLUTIONS 233-237

Charles III. of Spain, 233; his successor, 233--Branciforte

and the statue of Charles IV., 234--Napoleon invades

Spain, 235--A change of government, 235--_Juntas_, 235--The

Bourbons restored, 235--Iturrigaray and his administration,

236--Revolt in the air, 237--The policy of Spain,

237--Venegas, 237.

XXV.

HIDALGO 238-249

Birth and education, 238--Colegio de San Nicholas, 238--He

takes orders, 238; life at Dolores, 240; bold schemes,

240--Ignacio Allende, 241; An important step, 241--The

_Grito de Dolores_, 242--A new army, 242--Attack on

Guanajuato, 243--A brave boy, 243--The new viceroy,

243--Hidalgo excommunicated, 244--Valladolid taken,

245--Monte de la Cruces, 245--The insurgents defeated at

Aculco, 246--Hidalgo declared Generalissimo, 246--Battle

of Calderon, 247--Capture and death of the chiefs, 248--End

of the struggle for independence, 248.

XXVI.

MORELOS 250-257

Birth and family, 250--Morelia, 251--Muleteer and student,

251--Morelos joins Hidalgo, 251--Siege of Cuautla, 252--Acapulco,

252--First Mexican Congress, 252--Declaration

of independence, 253--Attack on Valladolid, 253--Mishaps,

254--Morelos a prisoner, 254--Death of Morelos,

255; his character and aims, 255; his object achieved, 256.

XXVII.

YTURBIDE 258-271

The close of Calleja's administration, 258--The insurgents

dispersed, 258--Apodaca and Guerrero, 259--Affairs in

Spain, 259--Agustin de Yturbide, 260; early services,

260; meets Guerrero, 261--"Plan of Iguala," 261--The

"three guaranties," 261--Advance of the insurgents, 262--The

viceroy deposed, 262--A successful campaign, 263--O'Donojú,

263--Treaty of Cordova, 264--Yturbide enters

the capital, 264--The Regency, 264--The Mexican Empire

founded, 265--Work of the new government, 265--Second

Mexican Congress, 265--Yturbide proclaimed Emperor,

266--Signs of dissatisfaction, 267--Santa Anna, 267--The

Casa-Mata, 268--Yturbide banished, 268; his return to

Mexico, 270; his execution, 270; character of Yturbide, 271.

XXVIII.

SANTA ANNA 272-280

A confused story, 272--Santa Anna, 273; his connection

with Yturbide, 273--The Constitution, 273--"Guadalupe"

Victoria, 273--Expulsion of the Spanish, 274--A

presidential election, 274--Mutiny in the capital, 275--Colonization

of Texas, 276--Pedraza, 276--A Spanish invasion,

277--Santa Anna made Commander-in-Chief, 277--Bustamente,

278--Guerrero betrayed and shot, 278--Santa

Anna becomes President, 278--Farías, 279--Insurrection

in Texas, 279.

XXIX.

STILL SANTA ANNA 281-289

Louis Philippe, 281--_Reclamacion de los pasteles_, 281--The

French repelled, 281--Santa Anna's home, 282--Bustamente

recalled, 282--Trouble again, 283--Mejia, 283--A

revolution described, 284--Bustamente resigns, 288--Santa

Anna triumphant, 288.

XXX.

SOCIETY 290-300

Madame Calderon's journal, 290--An ambassador from

Spain, 290--State of society, 291--The Paséo, 291--The

Viga, 292--Women in Mexico, 292--Good-Friday in

Mexico, 294--Robbers, 297--_Guardias Rurales_, 298--A

monarchy proposed, 299.

XXXI.

RUMORS OF WAR 301-310

Results of the Spanish rule, 301--Playing at independence,

301--The appeal to arms, 302--The country exhausted, 302--Misfortunes,

304--The United States, 304--Spread of its

territory, 304--Colonization of Texas, 305--Moses Austin,

304--Revolt against Mexico, 305--Houston and Santa

Anna, 305--Texas independent, 305--Annexed to the

United States, 306--Herrera, Farías, and Paredes, 307--The

Mexican army, 308.

XXXII.

WAR BEGUN 311-322

The beginning of hostilities, 311--Palo Alto and Resaca de

la Palma, 311--The war carried into Mexico, 312--Difficulty

of negotiation, 312--"Indemnity for the past," 313--California,

313--Policy of the United States, 313--Monterey

taken, 314--Fremont enters the capital, 316--Taylor's

campaign, 316--Siege of Monterey, 318--Ampudia's proclamation,

319,--Paredes and his "Plan," 319--Santa Anna

again, 320--Fall of Paredes, 321--Santa Anna at the capital,

321--A new army, 321.

XXXIII.

PUEBLA LOST 323-332

Scott before Vera Cruz, 323--Buena Vista, 323--Raising

money, 323--The religious orders and their influence, 324--Wealth

of the Church, 326--Ecclesiastical property seized,

327--Bombardment of Vera Cruz, 328--The city surrenders,

328--Cerro Gordo, 330--Santa Anna at Puebla, 330--Puebla

occupied by the Americans, 331--Guadalupe and its

surroundings, 331--Santa Anna as Dictator, 332--Patriotism

aroused, 332.

XXXIV.

CHAPULTEPEC TAKEN 333-341

The approach to the capital, 333--Churubusco, 333--Docile

Indians, 333--Another victory for the Americans, 334--Molino

de Rey, 334--Chapultepec taken, 336--Occupation

of the capital, 336--Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, 338--Discovery

of gold, 338--Effects of the war, 339--Attempts

to capture Santa Anna, 340--Santa Anna retires to Jamaica,

341--Grant in the Mexican war, 341.

XXXV.

BENITO JUAREZ 342-347

Peace restored, 342--Herrera and his administration, 342--Santa

Anna again Dictator, 344--An epoch of reform, 344--_Clerigos_

and _liberales_, 344--Benito Juarez, 344; his early

life, 345; governor and exile, 345; restored to office, 346--A

new Constitution, 346--Juarez becomes President, 346--Foreign

intervention, 347.

XXXVI.

FRENCH INTERVENTION 348-356

A foreign squadron, 348--The pretext and the cause, 348--Spain

and England withdraw, 349--The policy of Napoleon

III., 349--A proposed empire, 349--Maximilian, 350;

dreams of "the right divine," 352--The French troops

advance on the capital, 353--Divisions in Mexico 353--The

_Cinco de Mayo_, 354--A bold attack, 355--Defence of

Puebla, 356.

XXXVII.

THE EMPIRE UNDER PROTECTION 357-364

The sovereigns arrive, 357--The imperialist party, 357--Reception

of Maximilian, 358--Relics of royalty, 359--Military

affairs, 360--The new government, 362--Chapultepec

restored, 363--Society at the capital, 363--Apparent

prosperity, 364.

XXXVIII.

THE UNPROTECTED EMPIRE 365-372

Action of the United States, 365--Responsibility for the

intervention, 366--The final word of Napoleon, 367--Carlotta

goes to Europe, 368--Her interview with Napoleon,

369--Maximilian leaves the capital, 370--At Orizaba, 371--Father

Fischer, 371--The Emperor's manifesto, 372.

XXXIX.

MAXIMILIAN 373-382

The French army withdrawn, 373--Advance of Juarez, 374--The

Emperor and his attendants, 374--Investment of

Querétaro, 375--Márquez and Diaz, 375--Personal appearance

of the Emperor, 376--The treachery of Lopez, 377--Maximilian

a prisoner, 378; his death, 380.

XL.

END OF THE EPISODE 383-385

General Vidaurri, 383--The escape of Márquez, 384--General

Diaz, 384--Puebla, 385--Vigor of the liberal government,

385.

XLI.

THE LAST OF SANTA ANNA 386-391

Juarez enters the capital, 386--Peace established, 387--Santa

Anna in retirement, 387; his exile and death, 388--Character

of Juarez, 389--Civil war again, 390--Death of

Juarez, 390--Lerdo becomes President, 391.

XLII.

PORFIRIO DIAZ 392-401

A new "Plan," 392--Birthplace of Diaz, 392--Scenery of

Oaxaca, 393--The Zapotecas, 393--Ruins of Mitla, 394--Early

life of Diaz, 394; his military achievements, 395--An

escape from hostile troops, 396--Triumph of the opposition,

396--Diaz proclaimed President, 397--Presidency

of Gonsalez, 398--Policy of Diaz, 399--Chapultepec at the

present day, 399--Hope for the Indian, 400--Prospects of

development, 401.

XLIII.

PHYSICAL ADVANTAGES 402-411

Climate and vegetation, 402--Mexican flora, 403--The

market-place, 404--A family group, 404--Native pottery,

405--The _cargador_, 405--Wearing apparel, 406--_Serape_

and _rebozo_, 406, 407--The cotton industry, 408--The

source of Mexican wealth, 409.

XLIV.

FUTURE 412-419

Influence of the Catholic Fathers, 412--Extinction of

monasteries, 412--The parish priest, 413--The Mozarabic

liturgy, 413--A missionary field, 414--The policy of the

government, 414--Schools, 415--Literature in modern

Mexico, 416--The Mexican-Spaniard, 417--Railways, 418--Brighter

days to come, 419.

INDEX 421

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

THE CONVENT OF CAPUCHINAS _Frontispiece_.

VALLEY OF TULA 15

COLUMN FROM TULA 24

RUINS FOUND AT TULA 25

QUETZALCOATL 31

PORTICO AT KABOH 43

VASE IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM, WASHINGTON 63

CASA DEL GOBERNADOR, UXMAL 71

STATUE FROM PALENQUE 73

TABLET OF CROSS AT PALENQUE 74

MAYAN BAS-RELIEF 77

STATUE OF CHAAK MOOL 79

ZAMNA 81

ORGAN CACTUS 85

IDOL IN TERRA-COTTA 89

CANAL OUTSIDE THE CITY OF MEXICO 93

STONE OF TIZOC 103

SCULPTURE REPRESENTING HUMAN SACRIFICE 107

COURT OF THE MUSEUM AT MEXICO 113

VASE. MUSEUM AT MEXICO 120

PYRAMID AT TEOTIHUACAN 169

EARLY POTTERY 187

CATHEDRAL AT MORELIA 201

PUEBLA DE LOS ANGELES 205

TEMPLE OF XOCHICALCO 225

CACTUS HEDGE 239

PANORAMA OF PUEBLA 269

INDIAN HUT IN THE TIERRA CALIENTE 283

CATHEDRAL, CITY OF MEXICO 289

THE VIGA 293

VALLEY OF MEXICO 303

MONTEREY, MEXICO 315

GENERAL TAYLOR 317

GENERAL SCOTT 325

SIEGE OF VERA CRUZ 329

BATTLE OF MOLINO DEL REY 335

STORMING OF CHAPULTEPEC 337

BENITO JUAREZ 343

ARCHDUKE MAXIMILIAN[A] 351

SAN LUIS POTOSI 359

CHAPULTEPEC IN THE TIME OF MAXIMILIAN 361

HEAD-QUARTERS OF JUAREZ AT SAN LUIS DE POTOSI 379

THE CONVENT OF CAPUCHINAS 381

ZAPOTEC ORNAMENT 393

IMAGE OF A ZAPOTEC CHIEF 394

PRESIDENT PORFIRIO DIAZ 397

AQUEDUCT IN THE CITY OF MEXICO 410

[Footnote A: From "The Fall of Maximilian's Empire." By permission of

the author, Seaton Schroeder, Lieut. U. S. N.]

For a number of these illustrations the publishers are

indebted to the courtesy of Messrs. Hochette & Co.,

publishers of "Le Voyage au Mexique," by Jules Leclercq.

THE STORY OF MEXICO.

I.

THE SUBJECT.

The steamer stops, and we are lying off Vera Cruz, in the Gulf of

Mexico. Half a mile off, the long, low shore stretches north and south,

with the white town upon it, flat roofs making level lines on the houses

glaring in the morning sunlight, domes and church towers rising above

the rest; glimpses of bright green tree-tops are to be seen, but outside

the city all is barren and waste. The plain behind rolls up, however,

and the background is the peak of snow-capped Orizaba, silent, lofty,

17,356 feet above our level.

This is what we see to-day, leaning over the bulwark of our large

luxurious steamer which has brought us, easily, from Havana in a few

days, over the smooth, green waters of the Gulf. Our only anxiety has

been the possible chance of a "Norther," which may break loose at any

time in that region, sweeping over the waters with fury and driving the

Stoutest vessels away from the coast they would approach. Our only

exertion has been to keep cool upon the pleasant deck, and to take

enough exercise to be able to enjoy the frequent food provided by the

admirable _chef_ of the steamer.

The scenery is the same that Fernando Cortés looked upon, some three

hundred years ago, when he, too, cast anchor about half a mile from the

coast, and scanned the shore with an anxious eye, to find a suitable

landing. Orizaba rose before him, as now we see it, stately, majestic,

cold and forbidding, under its mantle of snow.

We must envy the adventurer, in spite of our advantages in the way of

ease and comfort. He stood upon the cramped deck of his little vessel,

surrounded by a handful of men, with a limited amount of provisions, and

great uncertainty about the next supply. No town stretched out its

sheltering walls before him; there was scarcely harborage for his ships.

Yet he had the advantage of absolute novelty in his undertaking from the

moment he himself, with his little band, led the way up the steep slope

to Anahuac.

Every true traveller has some of the instincts of the explorer in him,

and these instincts must make us envy the prospect which lay before

Cortés as he approached in the Bay of Vera Cruz the real beginning of

his enterprise. There was the shore of the new country, where he might

plant his "rich city of the true cross." There was the cold mountain

which might contain in its depths the treasure he was seeking, and

beyond it was the rumored Empire he longed to conquer. At that moment,

no fear, no discouragement, held back the eager steps with which he

sprang into his boat, and beckoned his companions to follow him.

Cortés fulfilled his ambition, achieved his task, with what

difficulties, through what straits and failures, we shall have later to

see. He scaled the sides of Orizaba, reached the lofty plateau, and

seized the ancient citadel of the Montezumas. Civilization has trodden

smooth the rough path he first opened, and railroads now make it easy to

climb the pass so arduous for him. If our journey lacks the element of

constant discovery which belonged to his, we have gained that of wonder

and amazement at the difficulties he surmounted. Moreover, he came in

ignorance of what he was to find, with a blind desire for conquest,

investing the region he approached with imaginary attractions. We know

beforehand, as we begin to explore the country, that its legends and

romances are as fascinating as its mines are deep; that its story is as

picturesque as the lofty ranges and deep rolling valleys which make the

charm of its scenery.

An inhospitable coast borders the treacherous, though beautiful, Gulf of

Mexico. Its waters look smiling and placid, but at any season the

furious "Norther" may break loose, sweeping with fearful suddenness over

its surface, lashing its lately smiling waves into fury, threatening

every vessel with destruction. Low sand-bars offer little shelter from

the blast. Ships must stand off the coast until the tempest shall be

past.

The country offers nothing better to its landed guests. _Vomito_ lurks

in the streets of Vera Cruz to seize upon strangers and hurry them off

to a wretched grave. All the pests of a tropical region infest the low

lands running back from the sea. Splendid vegetation hides unpleasant

animals, and snakes are lurking among the beautiful blue morning-glories

that festoon the tangled forests. Let us hasten away from these dangers,

and climb the slope that leads to a purer air.

We have escaped the terrors of the custom-house at Vera Cruz, from

which, by the way, Cortés was exempt, and after a doubtful night in the

hotel, serenaded by swarms of Vera Cruz mosquitoes, at early dawn we

creep stealthily from our chambers, not to disturb the few misguided

guests who mean to stay a little longer, and follow the dusky

_cargadores_, bearing our baggage on their backs, down into the silent

street. In Mexico there is no effort on the part of an hotel proprietor

to speed the parting guest. He signs the bill overnight and betakes

himself to repose, undisturbed by the exodus in early morning. The

_cargadores_ who have agreed to attend to the luggage rouse their

sleeping prey and lead them through a wide, straight street to the

railroad station. There is no sign of breakfast at the hotel. Nobody is

stirring but one sleepy innkeeper. Hard by the station, as in every

Mexican town, is a café, where excellent hot coffee is furnished, with

plenty of boiled milk and good bread in many and various forms. Here we

may sit and refresh ourselves with cup after cup, if we like, until the

short, sharp whistle of the steam-engine warns us to take the train.

Heavy baggage was, or should have been, weighed and registered

overnight.

It is but six o'clock as we move out of the station. A big sun is slowly

rising over the dry, hot _chapparral_ outside the city. Although it is

early April, all is parched like midsummer. Soon, however, we begin to

climb, and, as we ascend, pass through forests of wonderful growth.

Sugar-cane and coffee plantations now appear; and the trees are hung

with orchids, tangled with vines bright with blossoms, many of them

fruit-trees now in flower, one mass of white or pink. The road crosses

water-falls, winds round ravines, under mountains, through tunnels,

climbing ever higher and higher, until Córdoba is reached at an

elevation of over 2,000 feet. This town is surrounded and invaded by

coffee plantations and orange groves. At the station baskets of

delicious fruits are offered us--oranges, bananas, grenaditas, mangoes.

Here we bid farewell to the tropics, and forget the snakes and the fear

of _vomito_.

The climate we are seeking is not a tropical one. Whoever associates

Mexico with the characteristics of heat, malaria, venomous reptiles, has

received a wrong impression of it. Such places, with their drawbacks,

exist within the geographical limits of the country, but it is wholly

unnecessary to seek them; for the towns of historical and picturesque

interest are above the reach of tropical dangers, for the most part,

while there are seasons of the year when even the warmer portions can be

visited with safety and delight. At Orizaba the climate is temperate,

fresh, and cool, beginning to have the elements of mountain altitudes.

It is well to stop here for a day or two to become accustomed to the

rarer air. It is a summer place of recreation for the inhabitants of

Vera Cruz, while in winter it is a favorite excursion from the places

higher up on the plateau.

As we are travelling only in imagination, we may safely, without pause,

press upward to the great plateau where most of the scene is laid of our

story. For Mexico, with the exception of the narrow border of sea-coast

we have just crossed, is a lofty table-land between two oceans, a

mountain ridge continued up from the Andes in South America, contracted

at the Isthmus of Panama to a narrow chain of granite, to grow broad in

Mexico as it stretches to the northwest, until it spreads, at an

elevation from 4,000 to 8,000 feet, almost from ocean to gulf. This is

Anahuac, the so-called table-land of Mexico, a broad plateau upon which

the picturesque romantic drama of Mexican history has been played. Upon

this high plateau, which is by no means level, rise the crests of the

great volcanic ridges, of which the highest are Popocatepetl and

Istaccíhuatl. The table-land rolls off northward at first, keeping its

high level, growing narrower, gradually sinking as it approaches the Rio

Grande, until at the boundary line of the United States it has fallen to

3,000 feet.

Thus Mexico possesses three well defined climates, due to variation in

altitude: the _tierra caliente_, or hot lands of the coast; the _tierra

templada_, or temperate region; and the _tierra fria_, the cold regions

of the mountain tops, more than 6,000 feet above the level of the sea.

These climates, moreover, are modified by the latitude, so that between

the cold altitudes of the northern portions, and the warm tropical

levels of the south, there is a vast range of atmospheric change.

Our story has its stage, for the most part in the _tierra templada_,

where the year is divided into two seasons: the dry season, from

November to May; the rainy one, from June to October. The pleasanter one

is the rainy one, in spite of its name. The rains are not continuous,

but fall usually late in the afternoon and during the night, leaving the

morning bright and clear, and the air deliciously fresh and cool. All

the year roses bloom in the city of Mexico, and there are places where

you may eat strawberries every day in the three hundred and sixty five.

Spreading over the greater part of this lofty region, there are broad,

level plains of rich verdure, bright with all imaginable wild-flowers

growing in profusion; large lakes, as picturesque as those of Northern

Italy, surrounded by hills that are mountains, reckoning from the sea

level; lofty mountain peaks, eternally snow-covered, barren and rocky

below their snow-summits, then clothed with pine, and nearer at hand

with fine oaks and other trees of temperate climates. Brawling streams

water the valleys, and at the edge of the plateau make deep barrancas,

whose depths reach to the lower level, their dangerous chasms hidden by

rich growths.

On this elevated plateau, which with all its variety seems a world of

its own, until within the period of modern inventions all but

inaccessible to the lower country and the ocean beyond, we find the

traces of an ancient civilization, reaching backward until it is lost in

legend. Long before the invasion of Anahuac by Cortés, it was inhabited

by intelligent races of men. The mystery which hangs about these people

makes the search for their history full of interest. In the present

native population, we seek to find some clue to the manners and customs

of the first inhabitants, by which to read the meaning of the monuments

they have left. They are gone, their institutions overthrown by a power

stronger than they were, by reason of the resources of advancing

civilization, their idols and temples overturned by the zealots of

another belief.

Outraged by the human sacrifices of the Mexican tribes, Cortés

destroyed, with a reckless hand, all the evidences of what he regarded

heathen worship. In so doing, the records of the race were lost,

together with carved images of gods. It is unfortunate that his zeal was

not tempered with discrimination, for it is now difficult, through the

clouds of exaggeration surrounding the Spanish Conquistadores, to find

out what sort of people they were, who preceded them on Anahuac.

Empires and palaces, luxury and splendor fill the accounts of the

Spaniards, and imagination loves to adorn the halls of the Montezumas

with the glories of an Oriental tale. Later explorers, with the fatal

penetration of our time, destroy the splendid vision, reducing the

emperor to a chieftain, the glittering retinue to a horde of savages,

the magnificent capital of palaces to a pueblo of adobe. The discouraged

enthusiast sees his magnificent civilization devoted to art, literature,

and luxury, reduced to a few handfuls of pitiful Indians, quarrelling

with one another for supremacy, and sighs to think his sympathies may

have been wasted on the sufferings of an Aztec sovereign dethroned by

the invading Spaniard.

Yet perseverence, after brushing away the sparkling cobwebs of

exaggerated report, finds enough fact left to build up a respectable

case for the early races of Mexico. Visible proofs of their importance

exist in the monuments, picture writings, and, above all, their

traditions, which, at all events, remain a pretty story, with a sediment

of facts the student may precipitate for himself. These traditions make

of the early settlers of Anahuac a very interesting study, all the more

from their shadowy nature, leaving still much margin for fancy.

They were overwhelmed by the Spaniards, but not destroyed, for the

descendants of the conquered races still form a large proportion of the

population of Mexico. Their _teocallis_ and hideous carved gods gave way

to Roman Catholic cathedrals and images of the Holy Virgin. Spanish

viceroys, after the first atrocities of military discipline, ruled the

gentle descendants of the Aztecs with a control for the most part mild

and beneficent. The Catholic fathers who crossed the ocean to labor for

the spiritual welfare of the natives, wisely engrafted upon the

mysteries of their own faith the legends and superstitions of the older

belief. Thus we find in many of the religious ceremonies in Mexico, a

wild, picturesque element, which is lacking in the church festivals of

the Old World.

When the Conquistadores took possession of the New Spain in the name of

their royal master, the Emperor Charles V., he was one of the most

powerful of earthly monarchs. His son, Philip II., received the country

as a part of his inheritance, along with realms which made him even

greater than his father. But the successors of Philip II. knew not how

to hold the possessions their fathers had won. Piece by piece their

distant provinces were lost to them. Mexico, after two hundred years of

neglect and mismanagement, shook herself free from Spanish rule; since

the early part of this century she has called herself independent, with

the exception of the two brief periods when the ambition of two men,

differing widely from each other in their antecedents and aims, caused

them to attempt the rôle of "Emperor of Mexico." Iturbide was the former

of these; the latter, the ill-advised Maximilian. For the last twenty

years, since the fall of Maximilian, Mexico has been a republic, with

all the varying fortunes that attend a young institution struggling with

inexperience and difficulty. A native population with an inheritance of

superstition, prejudice, and oppression, mixed with a race whose

traditions are all in favor of arbitrary government, supplemented by

immigrants from every other nation who have come, often with lawless

intent, seldom with disinterested motives, and never inspired by any

feeling that could be called patriotism, must wait long for that

unanimity of public opinion and harmony of interest which ensure good

government.

At times it has seemed that no good could emerge from such opposing

elements; yet nature has furnished to Mexico material for a long siege;

broad territory with a faultless climate, mountains rich in every

mineral resource, valleys well adapted for cultivation and grazing, a

land where every industry may, under a stable government, be pursued

with success. The character of the descendant of the Aztecs is mild and

docile, capable, as many people think, of high development by education;

such bad qualities as Mexicans have developed from Spanish inheritance

are, it is hoped, giving way before the progress of civilization and

education.

The past of the people who live upon Anahuac is wrapped in mystery. So

is their future. Both are interesting problems, to be worked out from

the legends of old time, and the narrative of the present.

II.

SHADOWY TRIBES.

Anahuac means "by the water." It is the ancient name for the great tract

of land surrounding the lakes in the lofty valley of Mexico,--Chalco and

Xochimilco, which are but one lake, properly speaking, the large Lake of

Texcuco, and the smaller ones Zumpango and San Christobal. At first the

name Anahuac was applied only to the neighborhood of the lakes, but

later it came to be applied to the whole plateau.

The Conquistadores, according to their own glowing account, found upon

the shores of these lakes a busy population, with all the evidences of

industry and prosperity. Temples, erected for worship, containing the

images of strange gods, stood in the lofty places. Their monarch lived

in a palace of luxury, surrounded by his guards; he controlled a large

army, which did battle for him against his enemies. His swift-footed

messengers, without steam, without even horses, did his bidding even to

the shores of the distant sea. Without printing, or telegraph, he

received prompt information of distant events by pictures made on the

spot by his special artist. Here was a civilization which had received

nothing from the courts of Europe, whose forms and ceremonies, while as

rigid and as grand, borrowed nothing from the traditions of the royal

house of Spain.

Whence came this proud people which had conquered for itself a place in

that valley of the perfect climate?

About fifty miles from the city of Mexico is a town named Tula, formerly

Tollan, which means perhaps "the place of many people." A road, shaded

by great ash-trees leads across the river Tula, through a narrow pass to

some ruins of an ancient civilization, ruins already when the city of

Montezuma, which Cortés found flourishing, arose. A building of ancient

stone is still there, laid in mud and covered with hard cement of a

ruddy tint, with which the floors are also covered. The largest room in

the building is not more than fifteen feet square. Another building

farther on, larger than the first, is called the _Casa Grande_; it

contains about thirty small rooms, connected by stairways, as their

height above the ground varies. The plaza of the little town Tula

contains the portion of a column and the lower half of a colossal

statue, which belong, as well as the buildings just described, to the

period of the Toltecs, whose capital was the ancient Tollan. Their city

was abandoned a hundred years before the Aztecs entered it, and its

founders scattered. Whence came the shadowy race whose history vaguely

underlies that of later Mexican races?

The great mound which since Humboldt's time has been called the pyramid

of Cholula, of which every child has seen a picture in his geography,

has now all the appearance of a natural hill. It is overgrown with

verdure and trees; torrents of water in the rainy seasons have cut

crevices in its sides, and laid bare wide spaces. A good paved road now

leads to the summit, where a pretty modern church looks down upon the

little town of Cholula huddled round the base of the pyramid. The church

and the road leading to it are the work of the Spaniards, but

examination proves the whole mound to be built by men out of earth,

broken limestone, little pebbles, and small bits of lava. Sun-dried

bricks were employed, of varying sizes and different make, which aids

the idea that the mound was built slowly and by differing methods. On

the platform at the top, which was reached by five successive terraces,

Cortés found a temple, which he caused to be destroyed. The dates fixed

for the erection of this pyramid vary from the seventh to the tenth

century of our era. Conjecture only offers explanation of the purpose

for which it was erected. Legends which the neighboring Indians preserve

say that it was built in preparation for a second deluge. Another

version is that men dazzled by the splendor of the scene sought to erect

a tower which should reach the firmament; the heavenly powers, wroth

with their audacity, destroyed the edifice and dispersed the builders.

Cholula was one of the important cities of the Toltecs, but its

construction is attributed to an earlier people.

[Illustration: VALLEY OF TULA.]

Another monument of the ancient civilization is Xochicalco, seventy-five

miles southwest of the city of Mexico. In the middle of a plain rises a

cone-shaped height from three to four hundred feet high, whose base has

an oval form two miles in circumference. Two tunnels piercing the side

of the mound open towards the north; the first has been explored only

eighty-two feet. The second penetrates the calcareous hill by a large

gallery nine feet and a half high, with several branches in different

directions. The ground is paved. The walls are supported by mason-work

cemented and covered with red ochre. The principal gallery leads to a

hall eighty feet long, whose ceiling is kept in place by the aid of two

pilasters. In one corner of this hall is a little recess, excavated like

the rest out of the solid rock, with an ogival dome of Gothic aspect.

So much for the interior. Outside are five successive terraces of

mason-work sustained by walls surmounted by parapets. At the summit

stand upon a broad platform the ruins of the temple for which the mound

was apparently destined; it is a rectangular building constructed of

blocks of porphyritic granite placed on each other without the aid of

mortar, with such skill that the joinings were scarcely visible. In 1755

the temple still preserved five stories; at the top was a stone, which

might have served as a seat, covered like the rest of the building with

strange ornaments carved in the stone.

Works evidently for defence testify to the constant fighting which must

have been waged over Anahuac. In the province of Vera Cruz, at Huatusco,

there are traces of fortifications stretching towards the north. Ceutla

seems to have been one of the chief points chosen for defence. The plain

is covered with ruins. A forest conceals and at the same time protects

several pyramids of stone bound with mortar. These pyramids are the most

striking feature of this ancient architecture. The teocallis or palaces

at Palenque and Copan, ruins found in Yucatan and Honduras, are erected

on truncated pyramids like those of Anahuac. They are all of one

primitive type, although differing in details of material and form.

These ruins, still left to attest the power of the great vanished

nations who erected them, are rapidly disappearing. The Spanish

conquerors were amazed at their size and importance--so much so that in

their description they often exaggerated their splendor. Some of them

Cortés destroyed; whatever he spared, gradually falls away, through

neglect, theft, or other ravage of time. Forests of tropical growth have

hidden the wonders of Palenque from destruction. Other such places may

yet exist all undiscovered; and it is probable that the researches of

scientific explorers will in time bring to light much information about

the builders of these monuments. Meanwhile we must again turn to

conjecture, and in the absence of facts to keep it within bound, we may

indulge our imagination, and play with legend.

Far away from some distant home, early in the dim traditional annals of

Anahuac, men came to settle upon its plains. They found there a race of

giants--strange, fierce men, of immense strength,--whose ancestors

perhaps had struggled with prehistoric beasts, of which the bones lie

buried deep below the present surface. This race of giants was wild and

rude; they lived by hunting, and devoured raw the flesh of the game they

secured with bows and arrows; they were brave, daring, and agile, but

were given over to the vice of drunkenness.

We cannot stop to be very much interested in this rudimentary people,

called Quinames, who have left us scarcely more than a name, and little

even of legend to charm us. The pyramid of Cholula and that of

Teotihuacan are ascribed to them, rather by way of pushing back these

monuments to an ancient period. Their conception and execution show

ambition, perhaps veneration, as well as determination and perseverance.

Whence they came, therefore, it is vain to speculate: how long they were

there, what manner of men they were. A wave of life more civilized swept

down upon them from the north and exterminated the whole race, so that

we have nothing more to tell about them. The tribes which have the

credit of destroying the giants bear the names of Xicalancas and

Ulmecas. They paused a while upon the plateau, and passed on to people

the coasts of the Gulf of Mexico.

Next came the Mayas, still always from the north. Although they left

some traces upon Anahuac, they too moved farther on, to establish in

Yucatan and the territory between Chiapas and Central America their

greatly advanced civilization. Of this great family the many different

branches speak dialects varying from the mother tongue, but allied to

each other.

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