CHAPTER I.

Transcriber's Note

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Illustrations cannot be reproduced here, but the approximate position

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corrections made.

CATLIN'S NOTES

OF

EIGHT YEARS' TRAVELS AND RESIDENCE

IN EUROPE,

WITH HIS

NORTH AMERICAN INDIAN COLLECTION.

VOLUME I.

[Illustration]

ADVENTURES

OF THE

OJIBBEWAY AND IOWAY INDIANS

IN

ENGLAND, FRANCE, AND BELGIUM;

BEING NOTES OF

EIGHT YEARS' TRAVELS AND RESIDENCE IN EUROPE

WITH HIS

NORTH AMERICAN INDIAN COLLECTION,

BY GEO. CATLIN.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

With numerous Engravings.

_THIRD EDITION._

LONDON:

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR,

AT HIS INDIAN COLLECTION, NO. 6, WATERLOO PLACE.

1852.

PREFACE.

The reader of this book, being supposed to have read my former work,

in two volumes, and to have got some account from them, of the

eight years of my life spent amongst the wild Indians of the "_Far

West_," in the forests of America, knows enough of me by this time

to begin familiarly upon the subject before us, and to accompany me

through a brief summary of the scenes of eight years spent amidst the

civilization and refinements of the "_Far East_." After having made an

exhibition of my Indian Collection for a short time, in the cities of

New York, Boston, and Philadelphia, in the United States, I crossed

the Atlantic with it--not with the fear of losing my scalp, which I

sometimes entertained when entering the Indian wilderness--and entirely

without the expectation of meeting with excitements or novelties enough

to induce me to commit the sin of writing another book; and the thought

of doing it would never have entered my head, had not another of those

untoward accidents, which have directed nearly all the important moves

of my life, placed in my possession the materials for the following

pages, which I have thought too curious to be withheld from the world.

After I had been more than four years in England, making an exhibition

of my collection, and endeavouring, by my lectures in various parts

of the kingdom, to inform the English people of the true character

and condition of the North American Indians, and to awaken a proper

sympathy for them, three different parties of Indians made their

appearance, at different dates, in England, for the purpose of

exhibiting themselves and their native modes to the enlightened world,

their conductors and themselves stimulated by the hope of gain by their

exertions.

These parties successively, on their arrival, (knowing my history

and views, which I had made known to most of the American tribes,)

repaired to my Indian Collection, in which they felt themselves at

home, surrounded as they were by the portraits of their own chiefs and

braves, and those of their enemies, whom they easily recognised upon

the walls. They at once chose the middle of my Exhibition Hall as the

appropriate place for their operations, and myself as the expounder

of their mysteries and amusements; and, the public seeming so well

pleased with the fitness of these mutual illustrations, I undertook

the management of their exhibitions, and conducted the three different

parties through the countries and scenes described in the following

pages.

In justice to _me_, it should here be known to the reader, that I did

not bring either of these parties to Europe; but, meeting them in the

country, where they had come avowedly for the purpose of making money,

(an enterprise as lawful and as unobjectionable, for aught that I

can see, at least, as that of an actor upon the boards of a foreign

stage,) I considered my countenance and aid as calculated to promote

their views; and I therefore justified myself in the undertaking, as

some return to them for the hospitality and kindness I had received

at the hands of the various tribes of Indians I had visited in the

wildernesses of America.

In putting forth these notes, I sincerely hope that I may give no

offence to any one, by endeavouring to afford amusement to the reader,

and to impart useful instruction to those who are curious to learn the

true character of the Indians, from a literal description of their

interviews with the fashionable world, and their views and opinions of

the modes of civilized life.

These scenes have afforded me the most happy opportunity of seeing the

_rest_ of Indian character (after a residence of eight years amongst

them in their native countries), and of enabling me to give to the

world what I was not able to do in my former work, for the want of an

opportunity of witnessing the effects which the exhibition of all the

ingenious works of civilized art, and the free intercourse and exchange

of opinions with the most refined and enlightened society, would have

upon their untutored minds. The reader will therefore see, that I am

offering this as _another Indian book_, and intending it mostly for

those who have read my former work, and who, I believe, will admit,

that in it I have advanced much further towards the completion of a

full delineation of their native character.

I shall doubtless be pardoned for the unavoidable want of system and

arrangement that sometimes appears in minuting down the incidents of

these interviews--for recording many of the most trivial opinions and

criticisms of the Indians upon civilized modes, and also the odd and

amusing (as well as grave) notions of the civilized world, upon Indian

manners and appearance, which have got into my note-book, and which I

consider it would be a pity to withhold.

I have occasionally stepped a little out of the way, also, to advance

my own opinion upon passing scenes and events; drawing occasional

deductions, by contrasting savage with civilized life (the modes of the

"Far West" with those of the "Far East"); and, as what I have written,

I offer as matter of history, without intending to injure any one, I do

not see why I should ask pardon for any possible offence that may be

given to the reader, who can only be offended by imagining what never

was meant.

During the series of lectures which I had been giving in various parts

of England, and in my own country, wherein I had been contending for

the moral and religious elevation of the Indian character, many of my

hearers have believed that I had probably been led to over-estimate

it, from the fact that I had beheld it in the wilderness, where there

was nothing better to contrast it with. But I venture to say, that

hundreds and thousands who read this book, and who became familiar with

these wild people whilst in the enlightened world, and in the centre

of fashion, where white man was shaking the poor Indian by the hand,

and watching for his embarrassment while he was drawing scintillations

from him, as the flint draws fire from the steel, will agree with me

that the North American Indian rises highest in the estimation of his

fellow-men, when he is by the side of those who have the advantage of

him by their education, and nothing else.

Contemplated or seen, roaming in his native wilds, with his rude

weapons, lurking after game or his enemy, he is looked upon by most

of the world as a sort of wild beast; but when, with all his rudeness

and wildness, he stands amongst his fellow-men to be scanned in the

brilliant blaze of the Levée into which he has been suddenly thrown,

the dignified, the undaunted (and even courteous) gentleman, he there

gains his strongest admirers, and the most fastidious are willing to

assign him a high place in the scale of human beings.

Into many such positions were these three parties of the denizens of

the American forest thrown, during their visits to the capitals and

provincial towns of England, Scotland, Ireland, France, and Belgium;

and as I was by their side, their interpreter, at the hospitable

boards, the Soirées and Levées to which they were invited by the

gentry, the nobility, and crowned heads of the three kingdoms, I

consider it due to them, and no injustice to the world, to record the

scenes and anecdotes I have witnessed in those hospitable and friendly

efforts of enlightened and religious people, to elicit the true native

feelings of, and to commune with, their benighted fellow-men.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS OF VOL. 1.

CHAPTER I.

The Author embarks at New York, with his Indian Collection,

and cage with two grizly bears, for England, in the fall

of 1839--Packet-ship Roscius, Captain Collins--Gale

in the middle of the ocean--A ship dismasted and in

distress--The Captain and twenty-eight men taken off and

saved--The shipwrecked Captain and his faithful dog--"My

man Daniel"--Sailor's nose taken off by grizly bear--Dr.

Madden--Terrible gale--Sea-sickness of the grizly

bears--Alarm on deck--"Bears out of their cage"--Passengers

rush below and close the hatches--A _supposed_ bear enters

the cabin!--Great excitement--The explanation--The gale

subsides--Amusing mistake--The Author in the steerage--Two

eccentric characters--Arrival in Liverpool Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Howling of the grizly Bears--Alarm and excitement about

the docks--Scuffle for luggage--Scene at the Grecian

Hotel--Landing the grizly bears--Author's journey to

London--Ibbotson's Hotel--First sally into the streets--First

impressions of London--Adventure in the fog and mud--Amusing

occurrence in the street--Beggars at the crossings of the

streets--Ingenious mode of begging--Rich shops--No pigs

in the streets--Soot and smoke of London--Author returns

to Liverpool--Daniel's trouble with the bears--Passing

the Indian Collection and grizly bears through the

Customs--Arrival in London with Collection and bears--Daniel

in difficulty--Howling of bears passing through the

Tunnel--The "King of New York," and "King Jefferson" 12

CHAPTER III.

Letters of introduction--Driving a friend's horse and

chaise--Amusing accidents--English driving--"Turn to the

_right_, as the law directs"--A turn to the _left_--A fresh

difficulty--Egyptian Hall--Lease for three years--Arrangement

of Collection--Bears sold and removed to Regent's Park

Zoological Gardens--Their fates 28

CHAPTER IV.

Indian Collection arranged for exhibition--Description of

it--The Hon. Charles Augustus Murray--Collection opened to

private view--Kindness of the Hon. Mr. Murray--Distinguished

visitors--Mr. Murray's explanations--Kind reception by the

Public and the Press--Kind friends--Fatigue of explaining

and answering questions--Curious remedy proposed by a

friend--Pleasures and pains of a friendly and fashionable

dinner 34

CHAPTER V.

Author's illness from overtalking in his Collection--Daniel's

illness from the same cause--Character of Daniel--His

labour-saving plan for answering one hundred questions--His

disappointment--Daniel travels to Ireland for his

health--Author prepares to publish his Notes of Travel

amongst the Indians--John Murray (publisher)--His reasons

for not publishing the Author's work--His friendly

advice--Author's book published by himself at the Egyptian

Hall--Illustrious subscribers--Thomas Moore--Critical notices

in London papers 45

CHAPTER VI.

The Author's wife and two children arrive in the

British Queen, from New York--First appreciation of

London--Sight-seeing--Author lectures in the Royal

Institution--Suggests a _Museum of Mankind_--Great

applause--Vote of thanks by members of the Royal

Institution--The "_Museum of History_"--Author lectures

in the other literary and scientific institutions of

London--Author dines with the Royal Geographical Society, and

with the Royal Geological Society--Mrs. Catlin's travels in

the "Far West"--Her welcome, and kind friends in London 60

CHAPTER VII.

The Author dines with the Royal Highland Society--The Duke of

Richmond presides--His Grace's compliment to the Author

and his country--Sir David Wilkie--His compliment to the

Author--Charles Augustus Murray and the Author at the

Caledonian Ball (Almack's) in Indian costumes--Their

rehearsal--Dressing and painting--Entering the ball--Alarm

of ladies--Mr. Murray's infinite amusement (_incognito_)

amongst his friends--War-dance and war-whoops--Great

applause--Bouquets of flowers--Scalp-dance--Brooches

and bracelets presented to the chiefs--Trinkets

returned--Perspiration carries off the paint, and Mr. Murray

recognised--Amusement of his friends--The "Indians" return

to Egyptian Hall at seven in the morning--Their amusing

appearance 66

CHAPTER VIII.

Their Royal Highnesses the Duke of Coburg and Prince Ernest

visit the Collection--His Royal Highness the (little)

Duc de Brabant visits the Collection with the Hon. Mr.

Murray--The Author presents him an Indian pipe and pair of

mocassins--Visit of His Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex to

the Collection--His noble sympathy for the Indians--He smokes

an Indian pipe under the wigwam--The Author takes breakfast

with the Duke of Sussex in Kensington Palace--The Duke's

dress and appearance--John Hunter, the Indian traveller--The

Duke's inquiries about him--Monsieur Duponceau--Visit to

the Bank of England--To Buckingham Palace--To Windsor

Castle--Author visits the Polish Ball with several friends in

Indian costumes 79

CHAPTER IX.

Consequent troubles for Daniel in the exhibition-rooms--Daniel's

difficulty with an artist making copies--Takes his

sketch-book from him--Tableaux vivans commenced--List of the

groups--Hon. Mr. Murray attends, with His Royal Highness the

Due de Brabant--The Author presented to Her Majesty and His

Royal Highness Prince Albert, by the Hon. Mr. Murray--Indian

Collection removed to Liverpool--Biennial exhibition of

Mechanics' Institution--22,000 children admitted free to the

Indian Collection in one week--The Indian tableaux vivans in

the provincial towns for six months--Collection opened in

Sheffield--In Manchester--Nine Ojibbeway Indians arrive, in

charge of Mr. Rankin--His proposal to the Author 90

CHAPTER X.

Difficulty of procuring lodgings for the Indians--The Author

pays them a visit--Is recognised by them--Arrangement

with Mr. Rankin--Crowds around their hotel--First visit

of the Ojibbeways to the Author's Collection--Their

surprise--Council held under the wigwam--Indians agree to

drink no spirituous liquors--The old Chiefs speech to the

Author--Names of the Indians--Their portraits--Description of

each--Cadotte, the interpreter 103

CHAPTER XI.

Ojibbeways visit the Mayor in Town-hall--They refuse

wine--Distress of the kind and accommodating

landlord--Indians' first _drive_ about the town of

Manchester--Their curious remarks--Saw some white people

drunk--Many women holding on to men's arms and apparently

not sick--Saw much smoke--Vast many poor people--Indians

commence dancing in the Author's Collection--Effects of the

war-dance and war-whoop upon the audience--Various amusements

of the evening--A rich present to the old Boy-Chief--And

his speech--Numerous presents made--Immense crowd and

excitement--Indians visit a great woollen-factory--Casts

made from their heads by a phrenologist--Visit to Orrell's

cotton-mill at Stockport--Their opinions of it--The party

kindly entertained by Mr. Hollins and lady 111

CHAPTER XII.

Indians on the housetops--Great alarm--Curious excitement--People

proposing to "take them" with ropes--Railway to London--The

"Iron-horse"--"The Iron-horse (locomotive) stops to

drink"--Arrive in London--Alarm of the landlady--Visit from

the Hon. Mr. Murray--Interview with His Royal Highness the

Duke of Cambridge--Old Chief's speech--War-dance--The Duke

gives them ten sovereigns and ten pounds of tobacco--Indians

ride about the city in an "omnibus and four"--Remarks on what

they saw--The smoke--"Prairies on fire"--Lascars sweeping

the streets--Visit from the Reverend Mr. S.--Impatience to

see the Queen--Great medicine-feast to gain Her Majesty's

consent--Curious ceremony--Hon. Mr. Murray's letter comes

in--The Queen's appointment to see them--Great rejoicing 123

CHAPTER XIII.

Preparations for visiting the Queen--Amusing interview with

Sykes, the porter--Mistaken by the old Chief for Prince

Albert--Meet the Hon. Mr. Murray--The waiting-room--The

Author conducts the party before Her Majesty and the Prince

in the Waterloo Gallery--Their reception--Introductions and

conversations--Indians give the war-dance--A smoke--The

old Chief's speech to the Queen--Pipe-dance--Her

Majesty and the Prince retire--Indians at a feast

in the waiting-room--Drinking the Queen's health in

Champagne--Indians call it "_Chickabobboo_"--Story of

_Chickabobboo_, and great amusement--Indians return

to London--Evening-gossip about the Queen and her

_Chickabobboo_--First evening of the Indians in Egyptian

Hall--Great excitement--Alarm--Tremendous applause--Old

Chiefs speech--Hon. Mr. Murray's letter to the old Chief,

enclosing £20 from the Queen and other presents--Speech of

the War-chief--Pipe-dance--Shaking hands--Curious questions

by the audience--Ale allowed to the Indians at dinner and

after supper--Their rejoicing--They call it _Chickabobboo_ 134

CHAPTER XIV.

Rev. Mr. S---- and friend visit the Indians again--A day

appointed for a _talk_ about religion--Indians go to

the Thames Tunnel--Give the medicine-dance (wabeno)

under it--Kind treatment there, and _Chickabobboo_--The

exhibition--Egyptian Hall--Debate about the propriety of the

Indians dancing to make money--Great crowd--Woman screaming

and lifted on to the platform by Cadotte (afterwards

called the "_jolly fat_ dame")--She gives Cadotte a

beautiful bracelet--Her admiration of Cadotte--Evening

gossip after their exhibition--The amusements of the

evening and sights of the day--A clergyman asks an

interview with the Indians and gets offended--Exhibition

rooms at night--Great crowd--The "jolly fat dame" in full

dress--She talks with Cadotte--Indians meet the Rev. Mr.

S---- and friend by appointment--Old Chief's speech to

them--Gish-ee-gosh-e-ghee's speech--Reverend gentlemen thank

them and take leave 150

CHAPTER XV.

Exhibition rooms--Great crowd--The "jolly fat dame"--Her

interview with Cadotte--She gives presents to all the

Indians--Excitement in the crowd--Women kissing the

Indians--Red paint on their faces and dresses--Old

Chief's dream and feast of thanksgiving--An annual

ceremony--Curious forms observed--Indians invited to

the St. George's archery-ground--They shoot for a gold

medal--They dine with the members of the club--The "jolly

fat dame" and Cadotte--She takes him to his lodgings in her

carriage--Cadotte (or the "Strong-wind") gets sick--Is in

love with another!--Daniel unfolds the secret to her--Her

distress--She goes to the country--The "jolly fat dame"

returns--Cadotte's engagement to marry--Rankin promotes the

marriage--The Author disapproves of it 167

CHAPTER XVI.

Mr. Rankin resolves to take the Indians to the provincial

towns--Exhibition advertised to close--the wedding in

St. Martin's church--Great excitement--Its object--Grand

parade through the streets in omnibuses--Rankin advertises

"the beautiful and interesting bride" to appear on the

platform at the Indians' exhibitions--Public disgust and

indignation--Condemned by the Press--Rankin begins his

exhibition--Denies Cadotte admission to the Indians' rooms,

and dismisses him from his service--Rankin leaves London

with the Indians---Author getting out his large work--The

Indian portfolio--The "jolly fat dame" makes a visit to

Daniel in the exhibition rooms--A long dialogue--Illustrious

subscribers to the Author's large work--Emperor of Russia

and Duke of Wellington review 10,000 troops at Windsor--The

Emperor presents the Author a gold box--Author takes out a

patent for "disengaging and floating quarter-decks, to save

lives on vessels sinking or burning at sea" 185

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX--A.

Opinions of the Press Page 205

APPENDIX--B.

Museum of History 246

A Descriptive Catalogue of Catlin's Indian Collection 248

CATLIN'S NOTES IN EUROPE,

_&c. &c._

CHAPTER I.

The Author embarks at New York, with his Indian Collection,

and cage with two grizly Bears, for England, in the fall

of 1839--Packet-ship Roscius, Captain Collins--Gale

in the middle of the ocean--A ship dismasted and in

distress--The Captain and twenty-eight men taken off and

saved--The shipwrecked Captain and his faithful dog--"My

man Daniel"--Sailor's nose taken off by grizly bear--Dr.

Madden--Terrible gale--Sea-sickness of the grizly

bears--Alarm on deck--"Bears out of their cage"--Passengers

rush below and close the hatches--A _supposed_ Bear enters

the cabin!--Great excitement--The explanation--The gale

subsides--Amusing mistake--The Author in the steerage--Two

eccentric characters--Arrival in Liverpool.

In the fall of the year 1839 I embarked at New York on board of the

packet-ship Roscius, Captain Collins, for Liverpool, with my Indian

collection; having received a very friendly letter of advice from

the Hon. C. A. Murray, master of Her Majesty's household, who had

formerly been a fellow-traveller with me on the Mississippi and other

rivers in America; and who, on his return to London, had kindly made

a conditional arrangement for my collection in the Egyptian Hall, in

Piccadilly.

Mr. George Adlard, an Englishman, residing in the city of New York, had

also exerted a friendly influence for me in procuring an order from

the Lords of Her Majesty's Treasury for passing my collection into the

kingdom free from the customary duties; and under these auspices I was

launched upon the wide ocean, with eight tons freight, consisting of

600 portraits and other paintings which I had made in my sojourn of

eight years in the prairies and Rocky Mountains of America--several

thousands of Indian articles, costumes, weapons, &c., with all of which

I intended to convey to the English people an accurate account of the

appearance and condition of the North American tribes of Indians.[1]

On board also, as a part of my heavy collection, and as a further

illustration of the rude inhabitants of the "_Far West_" I had, in

a huge iron cage, two _grizly bears_, from the Rocky Mountains;

forming not only the heaviest and most awkward part of my freight, but

altogether the most troublesome, as will be seen hereafter.

The wind was kind to us, and soon drove us across the Atlantic, without

more than an incident or two worth recording, which I had minuted

down as follows:--About the middle of the ocean, and in the midst

of a four or five days' heavy gale, we came suddenly upon a ship,

partly dismasted, with signals of distress flying, and water-logged,

rolling about at the mercy of the merciless waves. We rounded-to with

great danger to our own craft, and, during the early part of the

night, succeeded, with much difficulty, in taking off the captain

and crew of twenty-eight men, just before she went down. This was a

common occurrence, however, and needs no further notice, other than

of a feature or two which struck me as new. When the poor, jaded,

and water-soaked fellows were all safely landed on the deck of our

vessel, they laid down upon their faces and devoutly thanked God for

their deliverance; and last of all that was lifted on board from their

jolly-boat was their keg of rum, the only thing which they had brought

with them when they deserted the ship. "This," good Captain Collins

said, "you will not want now, my boys," and he cast it into the sea.

[1] If the reader has forgotten to read the Preface, it will take

him but a moment to run his eye over it, and by turning back to

it he will find it an useful key to what follows.--_Author._

Captain James, a bland and good-natured Scotsman, commander of the

Scotia, the unfortunate vessel, was invited by Captain Collins to the

cabin of the Roscius, and into his state-room, where he was soon put

into a suit of dry and warm clothes, and afterwards seated at the

table; where, suddenly, a sullen resistance to food, and contemplative

tears rolling over his cheeks, showed his rough shell to contain a

heart that was worthy of the fondest affections of a dear wife and

sweet little ones--none of which was he blessed with, if I recollect

aright. But when his grief found utterance, he exclaimed, "My God! I

have left my poor dog tied to the mast of my old craft. There he is,

poor fellow! When we took to the jolly-boat I never thought of my poor

Pompey!"

The briny tears seemed to burn this veteran's hardened features as they

ran over his cheeks; and hunger and fatigue, and all gave way to them

and grief, until sleep had dried them up, and taken the edge from his

anguished mind.

The next morning, his recital of the affectionate deeds of the life of

his faithful dog, "who had made eighteen voyages across the Atlantic

with him, and who would always indicate land a-head by his nose sooner

than the sailors could discern it from the mast-head--whom he had,

in kindness, lashed to the mast for his safety, and in carelessness

abandoned to his unavoidable fate," brought tears of pity in my own

eyes. Poor man! he often wept for his faithful dog--and I as often

wept for him, on our way from the middle of the ocean to Liverpool. We

were, at this time, still in the midst of the terrible gale, which was

increasing in its fury, and had already become quite too much for the

tastes and the stomachs of the _grizlies_--a few words more of whom

must go into this chapter.

These two awkward voyageurs from the base of the Rocky Mountains, which

I had reared from cubs, and fed for more than four years--for whose

roughness in clawing and "chawing" I had paid for half a dozen cages

which they had demolished and escaped from, and the prices of as many

dogs "used up" in retaking them, had now grown to the enormous size

of eight or ten hundred pounds each; requiring a cage of iron so large

that it could not be packed amongst the ship's cargo below, but must

needs occupy a considerable space on the deck, in the form and size

somewhat of a small house.

The front of this cage was formed of huge iron bars, kindly indulging

the bruins to amuse themselves with a peep at what was progressing

on deck, whilst it afforded the sailors and steerage passengers

the amusement of looking and commenting upon the physiognomy and

man[oe]uvres of these rude specimens from the wilderness of America.

This huge cage, with its inmates, had ridden into and partly through

the gale with us, when the bears became subjects of more violent

interest and excitement than we had as yet anticipated or could

have wished. What had taken (and was taking) place amongst the sick

and frightened group of passengers during this roaring, whistling,

thrashing, and dashing gale, was common-place, and has been a thousand

times described; but the sea-sickness, and rage, and fury of these

two grizly denizens of the deep ravines and rocky crags of the Rocky

Mountains, were subjects as fresh as they were frightful and appalling

to the terrified crew and passengers who were about them, and therefore

deserve a passing comment.

The immediate guardian of these animals was a faithful man by the name

of Daniel Kavanagh, who had for several years been in my employment

as curator of my collection, and designed to accompany me in my tour

through England. This man has occupied a conspicuous place in my

affairs in Europe, and much will be said of him in the following pages,

and the familiar and brief cognomen of "Daniel" or "Dan" applied to

him. On embarking with this man and his troublesome pets at New York, I

had fully explained to Captain Collins their ferocious, and deceitful,

and intractable nature, who had consequently issued his orders to all

of his crew and to the steerage passengers not to venture within their

reach, or to trifle with them. Notwithstanding all this precaution,

curiosity, that beautiful trait of human nature, which often becomes

irresistible in long voyages, and able to turn the claws of the Devil

himself into the soft and tapering fingers of a Venus or a Daphne,

got the better of the idle hours of the sailors, who were amusing

themselves and the passengers, in front of the iron bars, by believing

that they were wearing off by a sort of charm the rough asperities of

their grizly and grim passengers by shaking their paws, and squaring

and fending off the awkward sweeps occasionally made at them by the

huge paw of the _she_ bear, which she could effectually make by lying

down and running her right arm quite out between the iron bars. On one

of these (now grown to be amusing) occasions, one of the sailors was

"squared off" before the cage, inviting her grizly majesty to a sort

of set-to, when she (seemingly aware of the nature of the challenge)

gradually extended her arm and her huge paw a little and a little

further out of her cage, with her eyes capriciously closed until it was

out to its fullest extent, when she made a side-lick at his head, and

an exceedingly awkward one for the sailor to parry. It was lucky for

him, poor fellow, that he partly dodged it; though as her paw passed

in front of his face, one of her claws carried away entirely his nose,

leaving it fallen down and hanging over his mouth, suspended merely by

a small piece of skin or gristle, by which alone he could claim it.

Here was a sudden check to the familiarity with the bears; the results

of which were, a renewal of the orders of non-intercourse from Captain

Collins, and a marked coolness between the sailors and steerage

passengers and the grizlies during the remainder of the voyage.

The sailor was committed to the care of Dr. Madden, in the cabin, the

distinguished traveller in Africa and the West Indies, and now one of

our esteemed fellow-passengers, who skilfully replaced and arranged his

nose with stitches and splints, and attended to it during the voyage.

The poor fellow continued to swear vengeance on the bears when they

should reach the land; but I believe that when they were landed in

Liverpool, his nose was not sufficiently secure to favour his design.

This unlucky affair had happened some days previous to the gale which I

have begun to describe; and with the unsociable and cold reserve with

which they were subsequently treated by all on board (visited only at

stated periods by their old, but not yet confiding friend Daniel, who

brought them their daily allowance), they had, as I have mentioned,

become partakers and sufferers with us in the pangs and fears of the

hurricane that was sweeping over the vessel and the sea about us.

The third day of the gale became the most alarming, and the night of

that day closing in upon us, seemed like the gloomy shroud amidst

the hurrying winds and the cracking spars, that was to cover us in

death. Until this day, though swinging (and now and then jumping) from

mountains to mountains of waves, the ship and the elements mingled

our fears with amusement. When, however, this day's light was gone,

curiosity's feast was finished, and fear was no longer chained under

our feet--we had reached the climax of danger, and terror seemed to

have seized and reigned through every part of the ship. The bears, in

contemplative or other vein, had been mute; but at this gloomy hour,

seeming to have lost all patience, added, at first their piteous

howlings, and then their horrid growls, to the whistling of the winds;

and next, the gnashing of their teeth, and their furious lurches, and

bolts, and blows against the sides of their cage, to the cracking of

spars and roaring of the tempest! Curiosity again, in desperate minds,

was resuscitated, and taking in its insatiable draughts even in the

midst of this jarring and discordant medley of darkness--of dashing

foam, of cracking masts, and of howlings and growlings and raging of

grizly bears; for when the lightnings flashed, men (and even women)

were seen crawling and hanging about the deck, as if to see if they

could discover the death that was ready with his weapons drawn to

destroy them.

The captain had twenty times ordered all below, but to no purpose,

until in the indiscriminate confusion of his crew and the passengers,

in the jet blackness of the gale, when his ship was in danger, and our

lives, his trumpet announced that "the bears were on deck!"

"Good God!" was exclaimed and echoed from one end of the ship's deck to

the other; "the grizly bears are out! down with the hatches--down the

hatches!" The scrambling that here took place to reach the cabins below

can only be justly known to each actor who performed his part in his

own way; and of these there were many. Some descended headlong, some

sidewise, and others rolled down; and every one with a ghastly glance

back upon the one behind him, as a grizly bear, of course, that was to

begin his "chawing" the next moment.

When the scrambling was all over, and the hatches all safe, all in the

cabin were obliged to smile for a moment, even in the midst of the

alarm, at the queer position and man[oe]uvres of a plump little Irish

woman who had slipped down the wrong hatchway by accident, and left her

"other half" to spend a night of celibacy, and of awful forebodings,

in the steerage, where she would have gone, but to which her own

discretion as well as the united voices of the cabin passengers decided

her not to attempt to make her way over the deck during the night.

The passengers, both fore and aft, were now all snugly housed for

the rest of the night, and the captain's smothered voice through his

trumpet, to his hands aloft, and the stamping of the men on deck, while

handling the ropes and shifting the sails, were all caught by our open

ears, and at once construed into assaults and dreadful conflicts with

the grizly bears on deck.

In the midst of these conjectures some one of the passengers screamed

and sprang from near the stairway entering the cabin, when it was

discovered, to the thrilling amazement of all, that one of the bears

had pawed open the hatchway, and was descending into the cabin! The

ladies' salon, beyond the cabin, was the refuge to which the instant

rush was making, when the always good and musical sound of the

captain's voice was recognized. "Why! you don't think I'm a grizly

bear, do you?" The good fellow! he didn't intend to frighten anybody.

He had just raised the hatch and came down to get a little breath and

a "drop to drink." He is as unlike to a grizly bear as any one else in

the world, both in looks and in disposition; but he happened to have on

for the occasion a black oil-cloth hood or cap, which was tied under

the chin; and a jacket covered with long fur on the outside, making his

figure (which was of goodly size, and which just filled the gangway),

with a little of the lively imagination belonging to such moments, look

the counterpart of a grizly bear. "Where's Catlin?" said he; "damn the

bears!" "Are they out?" cried the passengers all together. "Out?--yes;

they have eaten one man already, and another was knocked overboard

with a handspike; he was mistaken for one of the bears. We are all in

a mess on deck--it's so dark we can't see each other--the men are all

aloft in the rigging. Steward! give me a glass of brandy-and-water--the

ship must be managed, and I must go on deck. Keep close below here, and

keep the hatches down, for the bruins are sick of the scene, and pawing

about for a burrow in the ground, and will have the hatches up in a

moment if you don't look to them. Where's Catlin?" "We don't know," was

the reply from many mouths; "he is not in the cabin."

"Will, here, Misther Captain, yer honour, I'll till ye," said a poor

fellow, who in the general fright and flight had tumbled himself by

accident into the cabin, and observed sullen silence until the present

moment; "I'll jist till ye--I saw Misther Cathlin (I sippose he's the

jintleman that owns the bastes) and his mon Dan (for I've known Dan for

these many a long year in ould Amiriky, and I now he has chargin o' the

bears on board); I saw the two, God bliss them, when the bastes was

about gettin their hinder parts out of the cage, stannin on the side

jisth before 'em, Misther Cathlin with his double-barrel gun, and his

mon Dan pointin at 'em in the face, with a pistol in each hand; and

this was jist whin I heard they were outh, and I jimped down here jist

in the wrong place, as I am after observin when it is too late, and I

hope there is no offence to your honour."

"Catlin's gone then," said the captain; "he is swallowed!"

The captain was at his post again, the hatches closed, and in the midst

of dozing, and praying, and singing (and occasionally the hideous

howlings of the grizlies whenever a wave made a breach over the deck

of the vessel) was passed away that night of alarm and despair, until

the rays of the morning's sun having chased away the mist and assuaged

the fury of the storm, had brought all hands together on the deck, and

in the midst of them the cheerful face of our good captain; and in

their huge cage, which had been driven from one side of the deck to the

other, but now adjusted, sitting upon their haunches, with the most

jaded and humiliating looks imaginable, as they gazed between their

iron bars, their two grizly majesties, who had hurt nobody during the

night, nor in all probability had meditated anything worse or more

sinful than an escape, if possible, from the imprisonment and danger

they considered themselves unfortunately in.

In the general alarm and scramble on deck in the forepart of the night,

the total darkness having been such that it was impossible to tell

whether the bears were out of their cage or not, and quite impossible

to make one's way to the quarter-deck, unaccustomed to the shapes of

things to be passed over, "Misther Cathlin" had dropped himself into

the steerage as the nearest refuge, just before the hatch was fastened

down for the night. Any place, and anything under deck at that time,

was acceptable; and even at so perilous a moment, and amidst such

alarming apprehensions, I drew a fund of amusement from the scenes

and conversations around me. The circumstance of sixty passengers,

men, women, and children, being stowed into so small a compass, and

to so familiar an acquaintance, would have been alone, and under

different circumstances, a subject of curious interest for a stranger

so suddenly to be introduced to; but to be dropped into the midst of

such a group in the middle of the night, in the thickest of a raging

tempest, and the hour of danger, when some were in bed--some upon their

knees at their prayers--others making the most of the few remaining

drops of brandy they had brought with them, and others were playing at

cards and enjoying their jokes, and all together just rescued from the

jaws and the claws of the bears over their heads, was one of no common

occurrence, and worthy at least of a few passing remarks.

The wailings of the poor fellow whose wife had got into the cabin were

incessant, and not much inferior to the howlings of the grizlies on

deck. She had been put into my berth, and I had had the privilege of

"turning in" with her disconsolate husband, if I had seen fit to have

done so, or if his writhings and contortions had not taken up full

twice the space allotted to him. It was known and told to him by some

of his comrades, that they saw his wife go into the cabin, and that she

was safe. "Yis," said he, "but I'm unasy, I'm not asy about her, d'ye

see; I don't fale asy as she's there, God knows where, along with those

jintlemen."

Amongst the passengers in this part of the vessel I at once found

myself alongside of at least two very eccentric characters. The one, I

afterwards learned, was familiarly called by the passengers "the little

Irishman in black," and the other "the half-Englishman, or broken-down

swell."

The first of these two eccentrics was a squatty little gentleman of

about four feet nine inches elevation, and between two and three feet

breadth of beam, with a wrinkled face and excessively sharp features.

To be all in black he showed no signs of a shirt, though he was

decently clad, but in black from head to foot, being in mourning, as

he said, for "his son who had emigratin to Amiriky fifteen years sin,

and livin there jist long enough to become a _native_, had died and

leaven of a fortin, which he had been over to sittle up and receivin,

with which he was recrossin the ocean to his native country." He

said he wished to be rispectable and dacent, havin received 12,000

dollars; and as he thought the dacent thing was in "payin," now-a-days,

he had paid for a berth in the cabin, but preferred to ride in the

steerage. He made and found much amusement in that part of the vessel

with his congenial spirits, and seemed peculiarly happy in the close

communication with the other oddity of the steerage, whom I have said

the passengers called the half-Englishman, or broken-down swell, who,

I learned from my man Daniel, had laid in three barrels of old English

porter, in bottles, when leaving the city of New York, and the last of

which they were now opening and making the whole company merry with,

as a sort of thanksgiving on their lucky escape from the grizly bears,

who they firmly believed held possession of everything on the vessel

outside of the hatchway.

This eccentric and droll, but good-natured gentleman, with the aid of

porter made much amusement in the steerage, even in the hour of alarm;

and though I did not at that time know his calibre, or exactly what to

make of him, I afterwards learned that he was an English cockney who

had been on a tour through the States, and was now on his way back to

his fatherland. He had many amusing notions and anecdotes to relate of

the Yankees, and in his good-natured mellowness told a very good one of

himself, much to the amusement of the Yankees on board, and the little

Irishman in black, and my man Daniel. He said that "the greatest luxury

he found in New York were the hoisters, and much as he liked them he

had eaten them for two years before he had learned whether they were

spelled with a haitch or a ho." Much valuable time would be lost to the

reader if I were to chain him down to the rest of the incidents that

happened between the middle of the ocean and Liverpool; and I meet him

there at the beginning of my next chapter.

Adventures of the Ojibbeway and Ioway Indians in England, France, and Belgium; Vol. 1 (of 2) being Notes of Eight Years' Travels and Residence in Europe with his North American Indian Collection · 第 1 / 18 章