BOMBAY.--THE TOWERS OF SILENCE.--A PARSEE SCHOOL.--CAVES OF
ELEPHANTA.--SNAKE-CHARMERS.--FAREWELL TO INDIA.
A week passed pleasantly and quickly at Bombay, where there was much to
be seen of a novel character. Bombay is unlike any other city of India,
as will be discovered from the account of Frank and Fred, which we are
permitted to use in our closing chapter:
[Illustration: BOMBAY AND ITS ENVIRONS.]
"The name of this city is supposed to be derived from _Bonne Baie_ (Good
Bay, or Harbor), which it was called by the Portuguese more than 300
years ago. The harbor is the finest in all India, as it is twelve or
fourteen miles long, by five or six in width; the city stands on an
island about the length and shape of the one where New York is built,
and in other respects it reminds you of the commercial metropolis of the
United States. Bombay has its business section at the lower end, and its
residences elsewhere, very much as we find things in New York; it has
its Stock Exchange and other places of speculation, and when we went to
the Apollo Bunder, or general landing-place, we were reminded of
Whitehall and Castle Garden. The creek that separates it from the
main-land, or rather from the larger island of Salsette, has been
bridged over, like the Harlem River, and the railway comes into Bombay,
very much as it does into New York. We could make other comparisons, but
the above are sufficient to show that we feel at home in this great city
of India.
"The lower part of Bombay is called the Fort, and it had a good right to
have that name down to within the past twenty years. Bombay was the
first settlement of the English in India; it was bought by the
Portuguese from the Moslems, who conquered it near the end of the
fourteenth century, and held by them till 1562, when it was given as a
part of the dowry of a Portuguese princess on her marriage with King
Charles II. of England. When the East India Company began operations it
rented the island of Bombay from the king for ten pounds a year, and
continued to pay that rental till 1858, when the Company went out of
existence. A fort was built on the lower end of the island, just as one
was built about the same time at New Amsterdam (afterward New York),
and it stood there till the invention of modern artillery made it
useless as a place of defence. Many fine buildings have been erected on
the site of the fort and on its esplanade, and as you wander about the
streets you are constantly impressed with the business activity that
prevails.
"In the Fort there are many fine public buildings that must have cost a
great deal of money; there are some nice bungalows, or private
residences, at Byculla, which may be called the Fifth Avenue of Bombay,
and also on Malabar Hill, which corresponds to the upper part of
Manhattan Island, in the vicinity of the Boulevard. They tell us that
during the American Civil War there was the wildest kind of speculation
in Bombay, and enormous fortunes were made and lost; when the crash came
everybody suffered; and even to-day the city has not wholly recovered.
The high price of cotton caused everybody to speculate in it, and for a
while Bombay appeared to be the most prosperous city in the world.
"We will try to tell what we have seen since we came here, but there is
so much of it that we shall be sure to forget something.
[Illustration: A PARSEE MERCHANT.]
"To begin at the beginning, the first thing that attracted our attention
was the great number of Parsees; we had seen them before in Calcutta,
Hong-Kong, and other cities, but when we got to Bombay we found the
streets full of them. Doctor Bronson says there are about 700,000
inhabitants in Bombay, and the Parsees are thought to be not far from
70,000; then there are 450,000 Hindoos, 120,000 Moslems, and 25,000
Europeans, while the balance is made up of various Eastern races and
nationalities. So you see the Parsees are a tenth of the population, and
we are told that at least half the wealth of Bombay is in their hands.
Bombay is often called the City of the Parsees, and not by any means
without good reason.
"The Parsees came originally from Persia, where they had been persecuted
for their religious belief; they settled at Surat, and from there a good
many of them came to Bombay and to other places along the coast, and it
is thought that at least half of all the Parsees in India are in this
city. They are sometimes called fire-worshippers, on account of their
reverence for fire, and the worship they give to the sun, as the emblem
of life. They regard fire as sacred, and will do nothing to degrade it;
no good Parsee will venture to smoke, and it is an act of rudeness or
ignorance to offer him a cigar or cigarette, or to light a cigar while
talking with him. The Parsees are the shrewdest merchants of the East,
and a large part of the business of Bombay is in their hands; the
leading Parsee houses have branches in London and other European cities,
as well as in China and the Far East generally. In every way they are
the most influential of all the native inhabitants of Bombay, and are
steadily gaining in intelligence and prominence. When they fled to India
they brought the sacred fire with them, and it has been kept burning in
their temples ever since.
[Illustration: PARSEE SCHOOL CHILDREN.]
"Doctor Bronson found an old friend from New York,[9] who had been for
ten years a resident of Bombay; through his assistance and in his
company we were taken to the cemetery of the Parsees, on Malabar Hill,
where we saw their strange way of disposing of the dead. He also took us
to a Parsee school, where we saw lots of bright-eyed children, and heard
them recite their lessons, which they did very prettily, although the
language was one we did not understand. The little girls and boys 'spoke
their pieces' just as girls and boys do at a school examination in
Massachusetts or New York, and were quite as proud of the medals and
prizes that were given to them. The afternoon we spent in visiting the
Parsee school was one of the most interesting of our stay in Bombay.
[9] Doctor F. W. Doolittle, an American physician, who had gained a high
reputation and had a large practice among Europeans and Parsees. He died
suddenly in April, 1880, from the effects of a severe cold contracted
while attending a patient.
"Very naturally, we were most interested in the girls; they were from
eight to twelve years old, and had keen, intelligent faces. Nearly all
were pretty as pinks--brown-hued pinks, we may say, as the most of the
complexions had a brunette tinge. Each head was covered with a
gold-embroidered cap, and the rest of the costume was quite Oriental, as
it consisted of loose trousers, with a white or embroidered frock. The
recitations and songs were given in a manner highly creditable to the
tiny ladies, and with almost perfect coolness and self-possession. As
each little miss--we don't know the Parsee word for miss--came forward
to receive her prize she bowed gracefully, and marched off to her seat
with all the dignity of a princess. And we call these people ignorant
heathen!
"On leaving the school, we were invited to visit the 'Towers of Silence'
on Malabar Hill, where the Parsees dispose of their dead: it was
arranged that we should be at the gate of the cemetery at seven o'clock
on the following morning, when one of the prominent Parsees to whom we
had been introduced would meet us. We were there at the appointed time,
and so was the gentleman who was to accompany us through the place.
"The Parsees do not bury their dead, but expose the bodies to be eaten
by birds. The gentleman explained why they did this, and we cannot do
better than use his own words, as nearly as we remember them.
"'This mode of sepulture,' said he, 'was adopted because it was thought
the most appropriate and satisfactory. Hindoos burn their dead, but we
consider fire sacred, and would not use it for any ignoble office. The
earth is the mother of mankind, the producer of the fruits and
vegetables on which we live, and the burial of the dead in it is a
defilement and an injury. Cemeteries are acknowledged everywhere to be
unhealthy, and I believe you have much discussion concerning them in
Europe and America. When a body is exposed here it is quickly devoured,
and there are none of the gases that arise from cremation or
decomposition, nor is the earth defiled in any way. So we regard this as
the best way of disposing of our dead.'
"This explanation was made while we were standing in a building near the
entrance of the grounds, where the sacred fire is kept burning on an
altar; a part of the building forms a temple, to which funeral parties
come to say their prayers, and there are several rooms where the priests
and attendants bathe and change their apparel. From the windows there is
a fine view of the bay and the country surrounding the city, and a neat
garden shows that the attendants of the place are not idlers.
[Illustration: A PARSEE TOWER OF SILENCE, NEAR TEHERAN.]
"The other structures in the enclosure are the famous Towers, nine in
number, about twelve feet in height and thirty in diameter. In the side
of each tower is a double door of iron, where the bearers enter with the
bodies of the dead; through these doors no person, not even a Parsee,
with the exception of the attendants, is permitted to look; and if any
one passes within twenty yards of a tower he is required to bathe and
change his clothing before leaving the grounds. This is not a
superstitious notion, but is intended to prevent the spread of
contagious diseases; and so great is the precaution, that the bearers
and priests are required to go through the ceremony of purification
after each funeral.
"On the tops of two or three towers, those most in use, a lot of
vultures were sitting and waiting the arrival of the funeral
processions: they are so eager to perform their work that they sometimes
attack the bearers, and the latter always carry stout sticks for
defending themselves. Our conductor told us that within an hour after
the closing of the doors on a body nothing remains but the bones, and
these are swept into a well in the centre of the tower, where they
gradually decay.
"We took a walk among the towers, being careful not to go inside the
prohibited limit, and then returned to the entrance. Before we left the
grounds our guide showed us a model of one of the towers, and as he did
so he told us that the system was not invented by the Parsees of Bombay,
but was brought from Persia by their ancestors. The towers in Persia are
entered over the top by means of ladders placed against the sides, and
not through doors, as in the present instance. The funerals take place
at sunrise or sunset--never in the night, and rarely in the middle of
the day.
"The subject is not a pleasant one; but so much has been said about the
Parsees and their mode of sepulture, that we feel justified for what we
have written. From all we have been able to observe, the Parsees are not
fanatical on any religious subject, but they carefully preserve their
dress and original customs, and are evidently very earnest in their
respect for themselves and their ancestry. There are no more
intelligent men in Asia than the Parsees. At least, that is what those
who know them best are ready to say.
"From the 'Towers of Silence' we went to see the hospital for animals,
which is a Parsee institution for sheltering all domestic animals that
are in need of help. The theory of the charity is an excellent one, but
the practice did not strike us favorably. There were many animals
closely penned together, and the places where they were kept were not at
all clean. There were dozens and dozens of dogs, the most of them
ill-conditioned curs, in all stages of canine diseases. They receive no
animal food, which would be contrary to Parsee principles, and evidently
they do not relish boiled rice. Sheds and stalls were crowded with
horses, cows, oxen, sheep, and other domestic animals, some of them
suffering from incurable disease or injury. There were twice as many
occupants of the place as could be comfortably accommodated. The
hospital was founded on principles of humanity and kindness, but its
practical working leaves much to be desired.
"Every visitor to Bombay hears of the benevolence of one of its Parsee
merchants, who accumulated an immense fortune in the China trade, and
used a large part of it for the benefit of the public. He built and
endowed two large hospitals; constructed at his own expense the stone
bridge that connects Bombay with the island of Salsette; contributed
very liberally to the fund for the relief of the sick and wounded
soldiers during the Crimean war, and was famous for many other
charities. So great was his liberality and public spirit, that the Queen
recognized his merits by conferring on him the honors of knighthood, and
afterward raising him to the rank of a baronet. His name, Sir Jamsetjee
Jejeebhoy, is rather difficult for American lips to pronounce; but it is
familiar as a household word in the mouth of every old resident of
Bombay. There is a statue to his memory in one of the public places of
Bombay, but his greatest monument is in the hospitals he endowed and the
public works he created.
[Illustration: A BUNDER-BOAT.]
"A study of Bombay would be incomplete without a visit to the famous
Caves of Elephanta. Formerly it was necessary to go to them in a
bunder-boat, as they are situated on an island seven miles from the bund
or landing-place; and as the wind could not be depended on, the
excursion was of uncertain length. At present you can hire a
steam-launch for about seven dollars, and it will easily accommodate
four persons, with their guide, and this is what we did. Steam seems to
be driving sails out of use everywhere, even in unprogressive India, and
the bunder-boat gives way to the launch, just as the clipper-ship does
to the ocean steamer.
[Illustration: THE CAVES OF ELEPHANTA.]
"We had a pleasant run across the harbor, and in due time reached the
end of the stone causeway that leads up to the caves. The island takes
its name from the statue of an elephant that formerly stood nearly
half-way from the landing to the caves; it is about five miles in
circumference, and is occupied by a hundred inhabitants or so, who raise
sheep and poultry to sell in Bombay. The caves are about 250 yards from
the water, and consist of a series of temples hewn from the solid rock,
or rather of one large temple, with smaller ones at each side. From the
entrance to the rear of the cavern it is 123 feet, and the width of the
whole is said to be 130 feet. We do not know by whom they were made, but
the general belief is that they were excavated about a thousand years
ago.
"Stone pillars support the roof, and the interior is so dark that
torches are needed for exploring it. The walls are covered with
sculptures in bold relief, and both sculptures and pillars have been
greatly injured; it is said that the Portuguese placed cannon at the
entrance of the cave, and fired solid shot into the temple for several
hours, in order to destroy the work of the idolaters. At present the
cave is carefully protected, and guards are constantly on the lookout to
prevent injury by visitors.
"The sculptures show that the temple, or at any rate a part of it, was
devoted to the worship of Siva, one of the Hindoo divinities, as his
figure appears in several places, and there are numerous emblems such as
we find in his temples elsewhere. There is a three-headed bust to
represent the Hindoo trinity--Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva--and in one place
there is a figure of Buddha, which is thought to be more modern than the
rest. Some persons think this temple is older than the Caves of Ellora,
while others believe that Ellora is the more ancient. Nobody can tell,
and perhaps it is not of much consequence after all, as either of the
works is venerable enough for modern visitors.
[Illustration: COTTON MARKET AT BOMBAY.]
"The hotel where we stop is the resort of snake-charmers, jugglers, and
others, who hope to pick up a little money by amusing the visitors; of
course they are not allowed to enter the building, but they gather in
front of it, especially after breakfast and during the afternoon, so
that we can have a performance at any time at very little cost. We had
heard a great deal about the wonderful skill of the East Indian
jugglers, and have missed no opportunity of seeing them when there was a
prospect of something marvellous, but, from all we have observed, we
unhesitatingly declare that they do not equal Hermann, Blitz, and other
sleight-of-hand exhibitors in the United States.
"Travellers have written about the basket trick, in which a boy enters a
basket just large enough to hold him; the performer then begins a
conversation with the boy, which becomes more and more violent as it
proceeds, and finally a sword is thrust into the basket and apparently
pierces the occupant. He screams, and calls out that he is killed. The
sword is thrust in again and again; the boy's screams become fainter and
fainter, and finally cease, and it is supposed that he has been killed.
The basket is soon after lifted, and found to be empty, and the boy
appears in the crowd of by-standers. We have seen this trick two or
three times, and in each instance there was plenty of opportunity for
the boy to escape before the conversation began, and, of course, the
screams could be made to come from the basket by means of ventriloquism.
In another basket trick the boy remains in the basket, and the sword is
handled in such a manner as to avoid touching him.
"A trick more difficult to explain is that of making a tree grow in a
short time. The juggler takes a common pot filled with earth, and plants
a mango-seed in the centre; then he squats in front of it, and begins
playing on a musical instrument, or perhaps he sits perfectly still and
looks at the ground. In a minute or so the earth in the centre of the
pot swells, and then bursts, so as to show the plant springing from the
seed; the shoot appears and rises slowly, and it grows and grows, till
at length the leaves come out, the blossoms form, the fruit shapes
itself, ripens, and is plucked off and handed to the spectators. The
whole process of growth, from the planting of the seed to the ripening
and plucking of the fruit, occupies about half an hour, and the
performer does not touch the pot or bring his hand near the tree until
the fruit is to be plucked.
[Illustration: SERPENTS DANCING TO MUSIC.]
"Snake-charmers are numerous, and we have looked at them till we are
tired of their performances. They carry small baskets about the size and
shape of a Cheshire cheese, and with loose covers over the top, as we
have previously described. The basket is placed on the ground and the
cover removed, while the performer squats by its side and begins playing
on a sort of flute. In a few moments the cloths in the basket begin to
move, and the head of a cobra rises slowly from among them; the music
continues, and in a little while the snake has come quite out of the
basket, and is standing as erect as a snake can stand before its master.
He makes a sort of dancing motion, and is evidently fond of the flute,
as he lowers his head and goes back to the basket when the man ceases
playing.
"While the snake is dancing the man suddenly drops the flute, and, at
the same instant, grasps the snake around the neck. The snake becomes
enraged, and at the first opportunity bites its master on the hand; the
latter appears greatly excited, and rubs the wound with a stone, which
is said to be an antidote against snake-bites, and he offers to sell it
to you for a high price. The fact is, the snake is perfectly harmless,
as his fangs have been removed, and he might bite the performer a
hundred times over without the least injury. The snake-charmers wind the
strange pets around their necks and bodies, and play with them in many
ways; and when all their tricks are concluded the serpents are returned
to the baskets, and a collection is taken for the benefit of the
showman.
"These cobras, like their kindred in Ceylon, have a great fondness for
houses, and it makes little difference to them whether the places they
inhabit belong to Europeans or natives. It makes you feel uncomfortable
to think a deadly cobra may be under your feet as you walk on the grass,
or may enter your room while you are sleeping. The other day we were
breakfasting with a gentleman whose bungalow is on Malabar Hill, and
after breakfast the conversation turned on snakes; he told us of the
habit of the cobra, and while we were talking on the subject a
snake-charmer came along and wished to give a performance. The gentleman
told him we had already witnessed the tricks of the business, but if he
could find a snake about his premises he would pay him. We went to the
veranda at the rear of the bungalow, and the charmer squatted on the
ground and began playing on his flute; in a few minutes the head of a
cobra appeared from beneath the bungalow, and as the music went on he
crawled slowly out and stood erect in front of the charmer. Quick as a
flash the man dropped his flute, and grasped the snake firmly by the
neck; it was all the work of an instant, and before we knew what he was
about the snake was his prisoner. Holding him firmly by the neck, he
brought him near us, and forced his mouth open, so as to exhibit the
terrible fangs, with the bags of poison at their base. Our host accepted
this as a proof that the snake was not, as is frequently the case, the
property of the performer, and had been secretly let loose in order that
he might be caught.
"As soon as he had shown us the fangs, the man took a pair of pincers
from the folds of his dress and removed the poisonous teeth; then he
placed the prize in his basket, as our host had no use for it, and with
a couple of rupees as a reward for his services, departed.
"If the snake had succeeded in biting the man his life would have been
in great danger, as the poison is much more violent than that of the
rattlesnake, and is generally fatal. Prompt application of antidotes
will sometimes counteract its effects, but is by no means sure to do so;
the snake-charmers have a few antidotes known only to themselves, while
the English physicians make use of arsenic, in pills of one grain each,
or apply Fowler's solution, and they also give large doses of alcoholic
and other stimulants, in the same way that rattlesnake bites are treated
in America. Our host said that from fifteen to twenty thousand lives are
lost in India every year by the bites of venomous serpents. It is very
rarely the case that Europeans are bitten, for the reason that they walk
about very little, and besides, they are always clothed, and have their
feet covered with shoes, while the natives are barefooted.
"It is getting late, and we must stop writing. We could tell more about
snakes if we had time and space; more about Bombay, and a great deal
more about India. It is a vast country; and though we have seen many
things since we entered it, we feel there is much more that we have not
seen. How could it be otherwise, when the population of India includes
not far from a fifth of the whole human race, and comprises so many
kinds and tribes of men that we are lost in the attempt to enumerate and
describe them? We have told all we could in the short time at our
disposal for observation and writing out the result, and if you want
more knowledge about this wonderful land we must refer you elsewhere.
"To-morrow we leave Bombay by steamer. Doctor Bronson says we go under
'sealed orders,' as ships of war sometimes do when it is desired to
conceal their destination, and our orders will be opened when we are out
of sight of land. We cannot say what are his reasons for thus concealing
our future movements, but we know they are entirely proper, and
therefore we are satisfied. Of course you will hear from us again; you
have indicated your satisfaction at what we have sent home heretofore,
and consequently we shall be encouraged to continue our descriptions of
the countries it may be our fortune to visit.
"And so we say good-bye to India, and good-bye, for the present, to
friends at home."
[Illustration: FAREWELL TO INDIA.]
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