That faculty of taste was what Italy had acquired between the time of

Cimabue and the time of Mantegna--roughly speaking, between the year

1200 and the year 1450--between the first emancipation of art from the

old Byzantine and Romanesque thraldom and the time when the new art had

so overspread the country that engravings of the most famous pictures

began to be sold in the streets in every important city in Italy. Only a

few years after Mantegna's death, Albert Duerer, the great painter

engraver of Nueremberg, appeared before the council of Venice to try and

get a copyright for his engravings, which were being so cleverly forged

by the famous Raimondi that the copies were sold in the Piazza of Saint

Mark as originals. In passing, it is interesting to remember that Duerer,

whose engravings now sell for hundreds of dollars each, sold them

himself at his own house for prices varying between the values of

fifteen and twenty-five cents, according to the size of the plate. The

Council of Venice refused him the copyright he asked, but interdicted

the copyist from using Duerer's initials.

The immense sale of prints popularized art in Italy at the very time

when the first great printing houses, like the Aldine, were popularizing

learning. Culture, in the same sense in which we use the word, became

preeminently the fashion. Everyone wished to be thought clever, and a

generation grew up which not only read Latin authors with pleasure,

wrote Latin correctly, and had some acquaintance with Greek, but which

took a lively interest in artistic matters, and constituted a real

public for artists, a much larger and a much more critical one than

could be found today among an equal population in any so-called

civilized country. The era of collectors began then, and Mantegna's old

master was the first of them. Every man of taste did his best to get

possession of some fragment of antique sculpture, everyone bought

engravings, everyone went to see the pictures of the great

masters--everyone tried to get together a little library of printed

books. It took two hundred and fifty or three hundred years to develop

the Renascence, but what it produced in Italy alone has not been

surpassed, and in many ways has not been equalled, in the four hundred

years that have followed it.

With its culmination, individualities, even the strongest, became less

distinctly defined, and the romantic side of the art legend was ended.

It is so in all things. The romance of the ocean belongs to those who

first steered the perilous course that none had dared before; many have

been in danger by the sea, many have perished in the desperate trial of

the impossible, but none can be Columbus again; many have done brave

deeds in untracked deserts, but none again can be the pioneers who first

won through to our West. The last may be the greatest, but the first

will always have been the first, the daring, the romantic, who did what

no man had done before them.

And so it is also in the peaceful ways of art. Giotto, Beato Angelico,

Lippo Lippi, Botticelli, never attained to the greatness of Lionardo or

Michelangelo or Raphael. Sober criticism can never admit that they did,

whatever soft-hearted enthusiasts may say and write. But those earlier

men had something which the later ones had not, both in merit and in

genius. They fought against greater odds, with poorer weapons, and where

their strength failed them, heart and feeling took the place of

strength; and their truth and their tenderness went straight to the

heart of their young world, as only the highest perfection of illusion

could appeal to the eyes of the critical, half-sceptic generation that

came after them.

And so, although it be true that art is not dependent on genius alone,

but also on mechanical skill, yet there is something in art which is

dependent on genius and on nothing else. It is that something which

touches, that something which creates, that something which itself is

life; that something which belongs, in all ages, to those who grope to

the light through darkness; that something of which we almost lose sight

in the great completeness of the greatest artists, but which hovers like

a halo of glory upon the brows of Italy's earliest, truest and tenderest

painters.

[Illustration]

REGION XIV BORGO

Borgo, the 'Suburb,' is the last of the fourteen Regions, and is one of

the largest and most important of all, for within its limits stand Saint

Peter's, the Vatican, and the Mausoleum of Hadrian--the biggest church,

the biggest palace and the biggest tomb in the whole world.

To those who know something of Rome's great drama, the Castle of Sant'

Angelo is the most impressive of all her monuments. Like the Colosseum,

it stands out in its round strength alone, sun-gilt and shadowy brown

against the profound sky. Like the great Amphitheatre, it has been

buffeted in the storms of ages and is war-worn without, to the highest

reach of a mounted man, and dinted above that by every missile invented

in twelve hundred years, from the slinger's pebble or leaden bullet to

the cannon ball of the French artillery. Like the Colosseum, it is the

crestless trunk of its former self. But it has life in it still, whereas

the Colosseum died to a ruin when Urban the Eighth showed his successor

how to tear down the outer wall and build a vast palace with a hundredth

part of the great theatre.

Sant' Angelo is a living fortress yet, and nearly a thousand years have

passed, to the certain knowledge of history, since it was ever a single

day unguarded by armed men. Thirty generations of men at arms have stood

sentry within its gates since Theodora Senatrix, the strong and sinful,

flashed upon history out of impenetrable darkness, seized the fortress

and made and unmade popes at her will, till, dying, she bequeathed the

domination to her only daughter, and her name to the tale of Roman

tyranny.

The Castle has been too often mentioned in these pages to warrant long

description of it here, even if any man who has not lived for years

among its labyrinthine passages could describe it accurately. The great

descending corridor leads in a wide spiral downwards to the central spot

where Hadrian lay, and in the vast thickness of the surrounding

foundations there is but stone, again stone and more stone. From the

main entrance upwards the fortress is utterly irregular within, full of

gloomy chambers, short, turning staircases, dark prisons, endless

corridors; and above are terraces and rooms where much noble blood has

been shed, and where many limbs have been racked and tortured, and

battlements from which men good and bad, guilty and innocent, have been

dropped a rope's length by the neck to feed the crows.

Here died Stephen Porcari, the brave and spotless; here died Cardinal

Carafa for a thousand crimes; and here Lorenzo Colonna, caught and

crushed in the iron hands of Sixtus the Fourth, laid his bruised head,

still stately, on the block--'a new block,' says Infessura, who loved

him and buried him, and could not forget the little detail. The story is

worth telling, less for its historical value than for the strange

exactness with which it is all set down.

Pope Sixtus, backed by the Orsini, was at war with the Colonna to the

end of his reign; but once, on a day when there was truce, he seems to

have said in anger that he cared not whom the Colonna served nor with

whom they allied themselves. And Lorenzo Colonna, Protonotary Apostolic,

with his brothers, took the Pope at his word, and they joined forces

with the King of Naples, fortifying themselves in their stronghold of

Marino, whence the eldest son of the family still takes his title. The

Pope, seeing them in earnest and fearing King Ferdinand, sent an embassy

of two cardinals to them, entreating them to be reconciled with the

Church. But they answered that they would not, for his Holiness had

given them permission to ally themselves with whom they pleased, and

refused them money for service, and they said that they could not live

without pay--a somewhat ironical statement for such men as the Colonna,

who lived rather by taking than by giving an equivalent for anything

received.

[Illustration: CASTLE OF SANT' ANGELO]

Then the Pope made war upon King Ferdinand, and when there had been much

bloodshed, and plundering and burning on both sides, Prospero Colonna

quarrelled with the Duke of Calabria, who was on Ferdinand's side and

for whom he had been fighting, and came over to the Church, and so the

Colonna were restored to favour, and the Pope made a treaty with the

King against Venice, and so another year passed.

But after that the quarrel was renewed between Pope Sixtus and Lorenzo

Colonna, on pretext that a certain part of the agreement to which they

had come had not been executed by the Protonotary; and while the matter

was under discussion, the Cardinal of Saint George, nephew of the great

Count Jerome Riario, sent word privately to the Protonotary Colonna,

warning him either to escape from Rome or to be on his guard if he

remained, 'because some one was plotting against him, and hated him.'

Wherefore Lorenzo shut himself up in the dwelling of Cardinal Colonna,

between the Colonna palace and Monte Cavallo on the Quirinal hill, and

many young men, attached to the great house, began to watch in arms,

day and night, turn and turn about. And when this became known, the

Orsini also began to arm themselves and keep watch at Monte Giordano.

Scenting a struggle, a Savelli, siding with Colonna, struck the first

blow by seizing forty horses and mules of the Orsini in a farm building

on the Tivoli road; and immediately half a dozen robber Barons joined

Savelli, and they plundered right and left, and one of them wrote a long

and courteous letter of justification to the Pope. But Orsini retorted

swiftly, 'lifting' horses and cattle that belonged to his enemies and

making prisoners of their retainers. Among others he took two men who

belonged to the Protonotary. And the latter, unable to leave Rome in

safety, began to fortify himself in the Cardinal's house with many

fighting men, and with many strange weapons, 'bombardelle, cerobottane,'

and guns and catapults. Whereupon the Pope sent for Orsini, and

commanded him, as the faithful adherent of the Church, to go and take

the Protonotary prisoner to his house. But while Orsini was marshalling

his troops with those of Jerome Riario, at Monte Giordano and in Campo

de' Fiori, the Pope sent for the municipal officers of the city and

explained that he meant to pardon the Protonotary if the latter would

come to the Vatican humbly and of his own free will; and certain of

these officers went to the Protonotary as ambassadors, to explain this.

To them he answered, in the presence of Stephen Infessura, the

chronicler who tells the story, that he had not fortified himself

against the Church, but against private and dangerous enemies, against

whom he had been warned, and that he had actually found that his house

was spied upon by night; but that he was ready to carry out the terms of

the old agreement, and finally, that he was ready to go freely to the

Pope, trusting himself wholly to His Holiness, without any earnest or

pledge for his safety, but that he begged the Pope not to deliver him

into the hands of the Orsini. Yet even before he had spoken, the Orsini

were moving up their men, by way of Saint Augustine's Church, which is

near Piazza Navona. Nevertheless Colonna, the Protonotary, mounted his

horse to ride over to the Vatican.

But John Philip Savelli stood in the way, and demanded of the officers

what surety they would give for Colonna; and they promised him safety

upon their own lives. Then Savelli answered them that they should

remember their bond, for if Colonna did not come back, or if he should

be hurt, he, Savelli, would be avenged upon their bodies. And Colonna

rode out, meaning to go to the Pope, but his retainers mounted their

horses and rode swiftly by another way and met him, and forced him back.

For they told him that if he went, his end would be near, and that they

themselves would be outlawed; and some said that before they would let

him go, they would cut him to pieces themselves rather than let his

enemies do it. And furiously they forced him back, him and his horse,

through the winding streets, and brought him again into the stronghold,

and bade the officers depart in peace.

And the second time two of the officers returned and told the

Protonotary to come, for he should be safe. And again he mounted his

horse, and struck with the flat of his blade a man who hindered him, and

leaped the barrier raised for defence before the palace and rode away.

And again his own men mounted and followed him, and overtook him at the

cross of Trevi, near by. And one, a giant, seized his bridle and forced

him back, saying, 'My Lord, we will not let you go! Rather will we cut

you in quarters ourselves; for you go to ruin yourself and us also.'

But when they had him safe within the walls, he wrung his hands, and

cried out that it was they who, by hindering him, were destroying

themselves and him. But many answered, 'If you had gone, you would never

have come back.' And it was then the twenty-first hour of the day, and

there were left three hours before dark.

But the Pope, seeing that Colonna did not come, commanded the Orsini to

bring him by force, as they might, even by slaying the people, if the

people should defend him; and he ordered them to burn and pillage the

regions of Monti, Trevi and Colonna. And with Orsini there were some of

those fierce Crescenzi, who still lived in Rome. And they all marched

through the city, bearing the standard of the Church, and they passed by

Trevi and surrounded the house on Monte Cavallo, and proclaimed the ban

against all men who should help the Protonotary; wherefore many of the

people departed in fear. Then Orsini first leapt the barrier, and his

horse was killed under him by a bombard that slew two men also; and

immediately all the Colonna's men discharged their firearms and

catapults and killed sixteen of their enemies. But the Orsini advanced

upon the house.

Then, about the twenty-third hour, the Colonna were weary of fighting

against so many, and their powder was not good, so that they fell back

from the main gateway, and the Orsini rushed in and filled the arched

ways around the courtyard, and set fire to the hay and straw in the

stables, and fought their way up the stairs, sacking the house.

They found the Protonotary in his room, wounded in the hand and sitting

on a chest, and Orsini told him that he was a prisoner and must come.

'Slay me, rather,' he answered. But Orsini bade him surrender and have

no fear. And he yielded himself up, and they took him away through the

smoking house, slippery with blood. They found also John Philip

Savelli, and they stripped him of the cuirass he wore, and setting their

swords to him, bade him cry, 'Long live Orsini!' And he answered, 'I

will not say it.' Then they wounded him deep in the forehead and smote

off both his hands, and gave him many wounds in face and body, and left

him dead. And they plundered all the goods of Cardinal Colonna, his

plate, his robes, his tapestries, his chests of linen, and they even

carried off his cardinal's hat.

So the Protonotary, on the faith of Orsini, was led away to the Pope in

his doublet, but some one lent him a black cloak on the way. And as they

went, Jerome Riario rode beside him and jeered at him, crying out, 'Ha,

ha! thou traitor, I shall hang thee by the neck this night!' But Orsini

answered Jerome, and said, 'Sir, you shall hang me first!' for he had

given his word. And more than once on the way, Riario, drunk with blood,

drew his dagger to thrust it into Colonna, but Orsini drove him off, and

brought his prisoner safely to the Pope. And his men sacked the quarter

of the Colonna; and among other houses of the Colonna's retainers which

were rifled they plundered that of Paul Mancino, near by, whose

descendant was to marry the sister of Mazarin; and also, among the

number, the house of Pomponius Letus, the historian, from whom they took

all his books and belongings and clothes, and he went away in his

doublet and buskins, with his stick in his hand, to make complaint

before the municipality.

Then for a whole month all that part of Rome which was dominated by the

Colonna was given over to be pillaged and burned by their enemies, while

in still Sant' Angelo, the tormentors slowly tore Lorenzo Colonna to

pieces, so that the Jewish doctor who was called in to prolong his life

said that nothing could save him, for his limbs were swollen and pierced

through and through, and many of his bones were broken, and he was full

of many deep wounds. Yet in the end, lest he should die a natural death,

they prepared the new block and the axe to cut off his head.

'Moreover,' says Infessura, in his own language, 'on the last day of

June, when the people were celebrating in Rome the festivity of the most

happy decapitation of Saint Paul the Apostle, whose head was cut off by

the most cruel Nero--on that very day, about an hour and a half after

sunrise, the aforesaid Holiness of our Sovereign Lord caused the

Protonotary Colonna to be beheaded in the Castle; and there were present

the Senator and the Judge of the crime. And when the Protonotary was led

out of prison early in the morning to the grating above the Castle, he

turned to the soldiers who were there and told them that he had been

grievously tormented, wherefore he had said certain things not true. And

immediately afterwards, when he was in the closed place below, where he

was beheaded, the Senator and Judge sat down as a Tribunal, and caused

to be read the sentence which they passed against him, although no

manner of criminal procedure had been observed, since all the

confessions were extorted under torture, and he had no opportunity of

defending himself.' Therefore, when this sentence had been read, the

Protonotary addressed those present and said: 'I wish no one to be

inculpated through me. I say this in conscience of my soul, and if I

lie, may the devil take me, now that I am about to go out of this life;

and so thou, Notary who hast read the sentence, art witness of this, and

ye all are witnesses, and I leave the matter to your conscience, that

you should also proclaim it in Rome,--that those things written in this

sentence are not true, and that what I have said I have said under great

torture, as ye may see by my condition.' He would not let them bind his

hands, but knelt down at the block, and forgave the executioner, who

asked his pardon. And then he said in Latin, 'Lord, into thy hands I

commend my spirit,' and called thrice upon Christ the Saviour, and at

the third time, the word and his head were severed together from his

body.

Then they placed the body in a wooden coffin and took it to Santa Maria

Transpontina, the first church on the right, going from the Castle

toward Saint Peter's, and when none came to take it away, they sent word

to his mother. And she, white-haired and tearless, with burning eyes,

came; and she took her son's head from the coffin and held it up to the

people, saying, 'Behold the justice of Sixtus,' and she laid it in its

place tenderly; and with torches, and the Confraternities, and many

priests, the body was taken to the Church of the Holy Apostles, and

buried in the Colonna Chapel near the altar.

But before it was buried it was seen in the coffin, and taken out, and

laid in it again, and all saw the torments which the man had suffered in

his feet, which were swollen and bound up with rags; and also the

fingers of his hands had been twisted, so that the inside was turned

clean outwards, and on the top of his head was a wound, where priests

make the tonsure, as though the scalp had been raised by a knife; and he

was dressed in a cotton doublet, yet his own had been of fine black

silk. Also they had put on him a miserable pair of hose, torn from the

half of the leg downwards; and a red cap with a trencher was upon his

head, and it was rather a long cap, and the narrator believed that the

gaolers had dressed him thus as an insult. 'And I Stephen, the scribe,

saw it with my eyes, and with my hands I buried him, with Prosper of

Cicigliano, who had been his vassal; and no other retainers of the

Colonna would have anything to do with the matter, out of fear, as I

think.'

Five hundred years had passed since Theodora's day, four hundred more

are gone since Lorenzo the Protonotary laid his head upon the block, and

still the tradition of terror and suffering clings to Sant' Angelo, and

furnishes the subject of an all but modern drama. Such endurance in the

character of a building is without parallel in the history of

strongholds, and could be possible only in Rome, where the centuries

pass as decades, and time is reckoned by the thousand years.

[ILLUSTRATION: HOSPITAL OF SANTO SPIRITO

From a print of the last century]

The main and most important memories in the Region of Borgo, apart from

the Castle, and Saint Peter's and the Vatican, are those connected with

the Holy Office, the hospital and insane asylum of Santo Spirito, and

with the Serristori barracks. In Rome, to go to Santo Spirito means to

go mad. It is the Roman Bedlam. But there is another association with

the name, and a still sadder one. There, by the gate of the long, low

hospital, is still to be seen the Rota--the 'wheel'--the revolving

wooden drum, with its small aperture, corresponding to an opening in the

grating, through which many thousand infants have been passed by

starving women to the mystery within, to a nameless death, or to grow up

to a life almost as nameless and obscure. The mother, indeed, received a

ticket as a sort of receipt by which she could recognize her child if

she wished, but the children claimed were very few. Within, they were

received by nursing Sisters, and cared for, not always wisely, but

always kindly, and some of them grew up to happy lives. Modern charity,

in its philistinism and well-regulated activity, condemns such wholesale

readiness to take burdens which might sometimes be borne by those who

lay them down. But modern charity, in such condemnation, does not take

just account of a mother's love, and believes that to receive nameless

children in such a way would 'encourage irresponsibility,' if not vice.

And yet in Rome, where half the population could neither read nor write,

infanticide was unknown, and fewer children were passed in through the

Rota yearly than are murdered in many a modern city. For the last thing

the worst mother will do is to kill her child; last only before that

will she part with it. Which was more moral, the unrestricted charity of

the Rota, or the unrestricted, legal infanticide of the old-fashioned

'baby-farm,' where superfluous children were systematically starved to

death by professional harpies?

Ave Roma Immortalis, Vol. 2 Studies from the Chronicles of Rome · 第 11 / 19 段