THROUGH THE OBER-INNTHAL: ZIRL, ITS CHURCH, LEGENDS, AND
PAINTED HOUSES--THE MARTINSWAND AND
MAXIMILIAN--SCHARNITZ--LANDECK--BLUDENZ--BREGENZ AND ITS
LEGEND OF THE MAID
From Schwaz to Zirl,[26] beyond Innsbruck, is between twenty-nine and
thirty miles, either by train or road. The latter is quite good for
cycling, and those who are not cyclists or pedestrians will find to
make the journey by carriage a delightful way of reaching the
picturesque little village from which the ascent of the Gross Solstein
may be made, and that also of the more romantic and famous
Martinswand.
The village is, unlike many of those lying in the Unter-Innthal, east
of Innsbruck, an agricultural one, with most of the houses built in
straight rows, and having quaint and picturesque, but not very clean
or salubrious, courtyards in the rear. Some of the most charming
groups of peasants, ox-carts, and "farm scenes" are to be found at
Zirl, which is a good deal visited by artists, and invites the
attention of amateur photographers.
In most cases the houses have their dwelling-rooms and sleeping
accommodation on the first floor, which is reached by flights of
steps, and the exteriors of the dwellings are made picturesque and
quaint by the projecting gables of carved wood, and the galleries
which jut out beneath them, where the corn, herbs, and other produce
is either laid out or hung up to dry. As in other villages of the Inn
Thal, one sees the love of colour in the delicate pink, blue (almost a
lavender), and green tints of the stucco-work on the house-fronts and
walls. Zirl is a picture-village, too, and on the houses, as one
drives or walks through the narrow streets, one catches glimpses of
paintings of Virgins, saints engaged in vigorous and deadly combats
with evil-looking monsters of the dragon tribe, and here and there,
set in a niche in the wall, a tiny figure of a Madonna, saint, or
crucifix protected with glass, and often surrounded with a chaplet or
bunches of withered flowers.
One of the Inns, named "the Regenbogen," has a most vivid and even
startling representation of a rainbow (which gives it its name)
painted over the arched doorway.
The church of Zirl is chiefly interesting from the frescoes it
contains, which are the work of Schöpf. The churchyard is a spot in
which to linger. It is instinct with the pathos which comes in a
measure from partial neglect, and picturesqueness of environment.
One of the little town's chief attractions to the antiquarian and the
student of ancient and curious things will undoubtedly be the
Calvarienberg, which lies a little to the north; green and beautiful,
and crowned by a picturesque pilgrimage church. The ascent is
comparatively easy, and well repays one for the climb, not only on
account of the interest of the "Calvary," to form which the natural
rocks have been adapted, but by reason of the delightful views which
are obtainable from the plateau.
The path is dotted here and there by tiny buff-coloured chapels,
painted a sky blue inside, marking the stations of the cross; and from
almost all, as one turns round and faces the way one has come, or
looks out over the valley below, there is some charming view, or tiny
tree-framed vista, to arouse one's interest and delight one's eyes.
The church, were it not so isolated, and set amid greenery, and
surrounded with flower-bedecked grass, would strike one as garish, so
bright in tone are the colours with which it is adorned. But somehow
or other there, amid silence scarcely ever disturbed by the noises of
the village and only occasionally broken by the musical tinkle of cow
bells, and in a sunshine and air which is so bright and breezy and
clear, one's artistic sense seems to rest unshocked by the vividness
of the distemper and paint, and the crudity of the decorations.
[Sidenote: THE MARTINSWAND]
The village is, of course, very closely connected with several
incidents in the defence of Tyrol against the various Bavarian
invasions; and in the immediate neighbourhood is the Martinswand,
which rises sheer from the valley below Zirl, and was the scene,
according to tradition, of a perilous hunting adventure of the Emperor
Maximilian. The story is as follows: It was on Easter Monday, in the
year 1493,[27] when "Kaiser Max," as he was familiarly and
affectionately called by his Tyrolese subjects, was staying at
Weierburg, that he determined to set out on one of his favourite
hunting expeditions on the Zirlergebirge. There are many accounts of
what happened, but one of the most credited says that the chamois
which the Emperor had been stalking suddenly led him down the
precipitous face of the Martinswand.
[Sidenote: MAXIMILIAN'S EXPLOIT]
Intrepid hunter as he was, however, the steepness of the terrible
descent, which suddenly opened up beneath his feet, did not quench his
ardour for the chase nor deter him. But unfortunately, in his haste in
scrambling down the rocks, the iron nails in his hunting boots were
torn out one by one, until when he at last reached a rocky ledge
scarcely a foot in width there was but a single spike left in either
of them. To descend further was impossible, and upon glancing upward
along the path he had come, the Emperor at once saw that retreat by
the same way was equally hazardous. So there he hung literally
between earth and sky, visible as a mere speck from the valley which
yawned beneath him. A less fearless sportsman might well have been
unnerved by the position in which he found himself, or exhausted by
the strain put upon him. But the Emperor was made of tough and
enduring stuff, and his nerves were iron. Not only did he manage to
retain his foothold at that dizzy height, but he succeeded in nerving
himself to look about him, and after doing so for some time discovered
near by a small cleft or cavity in the rock which would afford him at
least a better foothold, if not actual protection.
The members of his hunting party who had followed him to the edge of
the precipitous Martinswand now looked down, but were unable to
determine what had become of Maximilian. And none from below in the
valley could, of course, see him, even if he had not been partly
hidden, first, by the ledge of rock and then by the cave, from the
fact that he was more than a thousand feet above them. At last,
however, when his probable situation became known to his followers and
to the inhabitants of Zirl, prayers for his safety and ultimate escape
were offered up in the church; and the priests also brought the Holy
Sacrament out to the top of the Martinswand, and there again offered
prayers for the Emperor's deliverance.
His retainers, huntsmen, and companions in the chase gazed up or down,
as the case might be, helplessly and hopelessly at him, and to them no
human aid seemed to be possible. Just as every one was about to
abandon hope (one version of the occurrence tells us), a daring
huntsman, named Oswald Zips, appeared, having himself climbed down the
precipice in pursuit of his quarry.
Surprised to find the Emperor, he called out, "Hullo! What brings you
here?"
[Illustration: AUTUMN IN S. TYROL]
And the former, no doubt, relieved in mind and not disposed to stand
upon ceremony or resent so unconventional a greeting, replied, "I am
on the look out."
To which the newcomer replied, "And so am I. Shall we venture down
together?"
And upon the Emperor agreeing to make the attempt--after, according to
various accounts, having spent from twenty-four to seventy-two hours
in his perilous position--they set out to descend the remainder of the
cliff face, and ultimately succeeded in doing so in safety. The daring
hunter (who various accounts say was a brigand, and others an outlaw),
to whom a secret path was known, was naturally well rewarded by the
grateful monarch, and ultimately was ennobled with the title of
Hollaner von Hohenfelsen; the last word, "High Rock," commemorating
the incident. As is perhaps natural, some accounts place a
supernatural aspect upon the Emperor's deliverance, and state that it
was an angel which guided him to safety, sent by Heaven in answer to
the prayers of the priests and people and the Emperor's trust in
Providence.
Amongst the treasures of Schloss Ambras is the monstrance in which the
Host was carried by the priests of Zirl when they celebrated Mass for
the comfort of the Emperor on Martinswand and offered up prayers for
his deliverance.
Maximilian, finding afterwards that many of the people of Zirl and the
district were determined to make the perilous descent to the little
cave which had afforded him shelter and foothold, employed some of the
Schwaz miners to cut a path down to it and to enlarge the cavity,
which became known as the Max-Höhle. In the cave was placed a
crucifix, with figures of the Virgin and St. John on either side, of
sufficiently large size to be visible from the valley below. The
cavern can be reached by this path (or one made since) in about an
hour and a half; but the climb is distinctly one which should be
attempted only by the clear-headed and sure-footed. A very excellent
view of the "hole" used to be obtainable from the ruins of the little
hunting-box and chapel to St. Martin which Maximilian afterwards
erected upon the green knoll opposite to it, known as the
Martins-buhel, but now private property.
Those who stop at Zirl and visit the Martinswand should not fail to
proceed a few miles further northward to the pretty little village of
Seefeld. On the way along the six miles of winding and picturesque
road one passes Fragenstein, once a strong fortress and afterwards
converted by "Kaiser Max" into one of his numerous hunting seats,
which lie scattered about the Inn Thal and the district round about.
There is quite a romantic story of buried treasure in connection with
ruined Fragenstein, in which a huntsman clad in green is mixed up, who
appears periodically and invites the peasants by his gestures to come
and assist him in digging up the treasure. Several attempts have been
made to discover the latter in past times, but all have been
frustrated when success appeared to be certain. On one occasion the
peasants of the valley say those who were digging, and had worked hard
for many days turning up the soil in every direction, actually had the
metal chest, in which the treasure is reputed to lie buried, in sight,
when a terrific storm burst over the valley, and when it had subsided
all traces of their work had been washed away or otherwise
obliterated, and the clue was never again discovered. The road to
Seefeld, though tempting for pedestrians, is steep, especially up to
Leiten and Reit; but those who walk may take some short cuts on the
curves, and will be well repaid by the pretty scenery and fresh,
invigorating air.
Neither at Leiten nor Reit is there much to detain the traveller--a
few picturesque houses; nothing more. And so on to Seefeld. In
connection with the village and its Heilige Blutskapelle there is one
of those many legendary stories, of which there are so great a number
known to Tyrolese Folk-lore.
Many centuries ago there appears to have lived at Seefeld a man named
Oswald Milser, who was rich and powerful and generous both to the
Church and to his poorer neighbours. His one besetting sin, however,
was pride, and so one day when he went to take the Easter Eucharist he
insisted that to distinguish him from the other communicants and mark
his importance the priest should give him one of the larger wafers
reserved for the use of the priests alone. Afraid to offend Milser,
who had been a generous supporter of the Church and a giver of large
alms, the priest complied with his request. No sooner, however, was
the host placed upon his tongue than the weight of it bore Milser to
the earth. And although in his terror and predicament he clung to the
altar, and then to the altar steps as he sunk further, the latter gave
way, and he continued to sink lower and lower, till in his terror he
called upon the priest to take the host back from him. This the priest
did, and when Oswald Milser had recovered from his fright he
recognized that the circumstance was a lesson to his pride, and
ultimately he gave his goods to the poor and the Church, and entered a
monastery to lead a life of penance and contemplation.
[Sidenote: A MIRACULOUS ROSEBUSH]
When his wife was told the miracle, she refused to credit it, saying
that sooner than do so she would believe that a dead rose-tree could
blossom. The story goes on to tell how immediately "a rose-tree which
was near by and had been dead for a long time, put forth the most
beautiful blooms, and so confounded the wicked woman that she went out
of her mind, rushed from her house, and was never more seen in the
flesh." But her spirit was often heard at night, wailing and moaning
on the mountain-side.
It was to contain this miraculous host which had confounded Oswald
Milser's pride that the Archduke Ferdinand, in 1575, built a special
little chapel on the left side of the fine fourteenth-century Gothic
church of Seefeld. This is even nowadays an object of veneration, to
which a considerable number of pilgrims come. The altar-piece is a
fine one, and was well restored about five-and-thirty years ago. The
statues which adorn it are those of the favourite legendary heroes of
Tyrol, St. Oswald and St. Sigismund, whilst the subjects of the
bas-reliefs are the incidents of Biblical history, known as "The
Mysteries of the Rosary." Amongst the "treasures" of the church are a
remarkably fine and interesting crystal reliquary and crown, given by
the Archduchess Eleonora.
From Seefeld there are many interesting excursions to be made into the
picturesque Mittenwald district, which lies to the north, upon the
Bavarian frontier.
Scharnitz lies at the point where the Hinderan and Karwendel valleys
unite. It has memories of many a struggle against the Bavarian
invaders, and more particularly of the defence of the fortress Porta
Claudia, built during the Thirty Years' War by Claudia de Medici, by
an Englishman named Swinburne, an ancestor of the late Algernon
Charles Swinburne the poet. He was an officer in the Austrian service,
and had a force of only 600 against Marshal Ney, with nearly 20,000,
and made so gallant and stubborn a defence that when the garrison at
length surrendered to such vastly superior numbers they made their own
terms and were allowed to march out as prisoners of war whilst
retaining their side-arms. They were sent as prisoners to
Aix-la-Chapelle, but the "colours" were saved by one of the garrison,
a Tyrolese, who made his escape with them wound round his body. He was
sought for amid the mountains for many weeks, but was not recaptured,
and lived to, later on, reach Vienna and hand the precious colours to
his gallant chief, who had so well defended the fortress.
We reached Telfs from Seefeld by road. The village, which boasts a
large cotton factory, is prettily situated and pleasant, but there is
nothing in the place itself to detain the traveller. The same remark
applies to Imst, once given over to the breeding of canaries, which
were so celebrated for their singing qualities that they were exported
to all parts of Europe. The old Inn, however, is worth inspection
should a stop be made at the little town, and there are many
excursions of a charming character to be made in the district round
about.
[Sidenote: LANDECK]
Landeck is a prettily situated and important little town in a wide
bend of the Inn Thal, having a fine prospect of environing mountain
summits occupying both sides of the river and dominated by Castle
Landeck, whose grim, square, and battlemented tower forms a striking
feature of the landscape. Another prominent building, which at once
strikes one on approaching the place either by road or rail, is the
fine fifteenth-century parish church standing on the slope of the
hill, which is crowned by the castle.
The church was founded by two natives of the place, only the Christian
names of whom appear to have survived, who, having lost their two
children in the forest near by, vowed that if the latter were found
they would show their gratitude by erecting a church to the Holy
Virgin. Hardly had the vow been uttered, the legend states, when the
distracted parents saw a bear and a wolf advancing towards them, each
bearing a child unharmed in its mouth!
The spire of the church, which has a curious double bulb surmounting
it, is of considerably later date than the building itself, which,
although thoroughly restored some forty years ago, was done very
carefully and sympathetically, and preserves many of its most
interesting architectural features, including some very early
sculpture. In the churchyard, from which such a delightful prospect of
the valley of the Inn is obtained, there are two monuments, which
should not be missed by any one interested in antiquities and history.
One is to Oswald von Schrofenstein, dating from early in the fifteenth
century; the other takes the form of a little Gothic chapel, dating
from 1870, which was erected to the memory of the Landeckers who fell
whilst assisting to defend the Italian frontier of Tyrol during the
Austro-Italian campaign of 1866.
[Sidenote: A TYROLESE VICTORY]
Landeck bore a brave part in the War of the Spanish Succession in
1703, when Maximilian, Elector of Bavaria, joined forces with the
French and Italians against Austria, and invaded Tyrol. The Tyrolese,
always ready to speedily assemble in defence of their beloved country,
soon made the main road over the Brenner impossible of passage by the
enemy, and Maximilian thought to elude the sharpshooters who swarmed
upon the hillsides commanding that way, by sending his forces round by
the Finstermunz and Ober-Innthal. They reached the neighbourhood of
Landeck without much opposition; but the Tyrolese had gathered to
dispute their further advance on the first favourable opportunity.
The Judge of the district, one Martin Sterzinger, had speedily
summoned all the available Landsturm forces of the neighbourhood, and
worked out a plan of campaign. The latter were to permit the enemy to
advance until they were well into the gorge, and then attack them so
fiercely and from so commanding a position as to have some hope--in
spite of their greater numbers--of severely and finally defeating
them. They were in consequence allowed to advance into the narrow
gorge, the road through which was spanned by the Pontlatzerbrucke. But
before they entered the defile the bridge had been destroyed by the
Tyrolese. The Bavarians, who were compelled to traverse a steep and
narrow mountain path, when they came in sight of the destroyed bridge
at once realized that they were entrapped. The precipitous sides of
the hills above them were practically unscalable, and there was no way
now the bridge was destroyed by which they could cross the roaring,
rushing Inn to safety on the other side. In the panic which ensued
numbers fell or were pushed from the road into the river, to be swept
swiftly away.
[Illustration: LANDECK AND ITS ANCIENT FORTRESS]
Then suddenly the heights above literally swarmed with Tyrolese, who
had remained hidden until the right moment to attack, who poured into
the huddled and panic-stricken mass of the enemy a hail of bullets,
supplemented by stones and pieces of rock hurled down by those who
were not possessed of guns. Only a mere handful of the force was able
to turn back and escape along the path by which they had come, and
these were speedily overtaken by the active mountaineers and made
prisoners. Not one, we are told, made good his escape to bear news of
the disaster to headquarters, and thus the French and Bavarian
commanders were for some considerable time in doubt as to what had
occurred. In the end they learned how their immensely superior force
had been literally cut to pieces and wiped out, and perhaps also to
hold the "rough jackets" of Landeck and the Inn Thal in greater
respect than they had done before. The victory of July 1st, as it is
known amongst the many other successes of the peasants' campaign
against the invaders of their land, is celebrated every year by a
procession and _fête_.
Besides being a most interesting little town, Landeck is yearly
growing more popular with holiday makers and rest seekers as a fine
centre from which to make some of the most delightful excursions and
short tours in the whole of the Inn Thal. The chief of these are
either in the immediate neighbourhood into the Lotzer Thal, and
Medriol Thal, or along and by way of the splendid Finstermunz high
road to Sulden, Trafoi, and other smaller places. There is also, of
course, the famous Stilfserjoch, the highest carriage-road in Europe,
and the pretty villages and valleys of the Kaunser Thal to invite a
long stay amid surroundings which are scarcely excelled in any other
district of North Tyrol.
But not merely days and weeks, but even months could be pleasantly
spent with Landeck as a base from which to explore the numberless
beautiful and almost unknown smaller valleys and gorges which run out
of the Inn Valley north and south, and in the former case lead one to
that wonderland of the Bavarian highlands, with its many ancient and
Royal castles, lovely little lakes, and fertile, flower-decked
pastures.
Soon after leaving Landeck, either by rail or road, one crosses the
boundary which separates the Ober-Innthal from the Vorarlberg. If by
the latter, as one approaches the summit of the Arlberg, which is 5910
feet above sea-level, one catches sight of an immense crucifix
overshadowing the road, near which are the two posts marking the
boundary line. The old road was opened for traffic nearly a century
and a quarter ago, but a considerable portion of that now generally
used, which is more sheltered and protected, was not made until 1825.
By the magnificent Arlberg Pass route one can reach Bregenz, and to
make the journey in this way by carriage or afoot is most delightful,
though the railway, after the long tunnel is passed, is very
interesting and picturesque.
However, comparatively few tourists and travellers nowadays devote the
time necessary to traverse the Arlberg to Bregenz by road, and so
Bludenz must be included in the itinerary we are describing. The
little town, which has a bustling and prosperous air, though it is
decidedly hot in summer, still possesses a considerable number of its
older buildings and houses. The ancient château or castle of
Gayenhofen is now used for Government purposes; it forms a picturesque
landmark in the town.
Bludenz will always have a place in the romantic history of Tyrol from
the fact that it was here that the well-beloved "Frederick with the
Empty Purse" came while an outlaw and in fear for his life. He made
himself known to the innkeeper where he sought refuge, who, though
embarrassed, was delighted to shelter the popular hero. His view was
shared by the rest of the inhabitants of the town, who when summoned
by the Emperor Sigismund to deliver up their prince declined to do so,
saying, "they had sworn fealty to Duke Frederick and the house of
Austria, and they would not betray him."
Frederick, though doubtless touched by the loyalty of the Bludenz
folk, knew that if he remained amongst them the result would probably
be the dispatch of a force by the Emperor to capture him, and the
possible destruction of the town by way of reprisal. So he stole
quietly away, and Bludenz was saved.
The old town is well worth a few hours' stay, and there are many
picturesque "bits" to be discovered for sketch book and camera in the
older houses and side alleys, even if time will not permit of a
sufficiently long sojourn to allow one to visit the pretty Montfacon
Thal, with its legend of a beautiful maiden who lived up in the
mountain guarding a hidden treasure, which she is condemned to watch
over until some one is bold enough to kiss three times a huge toad
which lives hard by, and also guards the wealth that is to reward the
bold rescuer of the maiden.
[Sidenote: FELDKIRCH]
Feldkirch is the last important town on the route to Bregenz.
Pleasantly situated near the grim gorges through which the river Ill
rushes with ever-increasing rapidity and force to join the Rhine,
there is much of interest in the quaint streets, and the arcades which
run in front of many of the houses.
The town itself is shut in by the mountains and dominated by the old
fortress of Shattenburg, now used as a retreat or home for the poor;
and for this reason perhaps is less resorted to than it otherwise
might be. There are, however, a large number of most interesting
excursions to be made in the neighbourhood, and the fifteenth-century
church is a fine one, with a good "Descent from the Cross" by a native
artist, Wolfgang Huber, and a remarkable and handsome pulpit, both
dating from the early years of the sixteenth century. Costume, too, is
occasionally seen in Feldkirch, and on one Sunday, the occasion of a
festival, there were quite a number of women wearing the old-time
steeple-crowned, brimless beaver hats--in shape somewhat like that of
a Russian _Moujick_ or the busby of a Grenadier--wide white collars,
embroidered bodices, and handsome brocaded aprons.
The last place in Tyrol when leaving it by the Arlberg route is the
most delightful and ancient town of Bregenz, standing upon the
north-eastern shore of Lake Constance. It is the capital of the
Vorarlberg, and in this delightful corner of Tyrol there is no town of
greater charm or historic interest. Above it rises the picturesque
Gebhardsberg, from the summit of which there is one of the most
celebrated panoramic views in Tyrol, embracing as it does the
beautiful lake, the Appenzell Mountains, and the rapidly flowing
Rhine.
There are really two towns in Bregenz. The old town, shaped like a
quadrilateral, standing on the hill which ages ago was the site of the
Roman settlement and castle, with two ancient gates, one of which has
been pulled down; and the newer town, with its shady promenades, quay,
modern buildings, and air of bustle during the tourist season.
[Sidenote: A LEGEND OF BREGENZ]
Irrespective of its unusually beautiful situation, one finds in
Bregenz much to interest and detain. It is a truly ancient place, with
much history--some of it of a romantic kind--attached to it. In the
Middle Ages, indeed, the overlords of the town and district were so
powerful that their house supplied the Emperor Charlemagne with a
bride, concerning whom there is a legendary and highly romantic tale.
[Illustration: CHURCH INTERIOR, TYROL]
It would appear from this story that Charlemagne was of a more than
usually suspicious nature, and by no means one of those complaisant
husbands with which the Mediæval tales have familiarized us. An old
lover of Hildegarde, having seen her married to the Emperor with great
distress of mind, in his wrath against her for preferring even an
Emperor to himself, got ear of Charlemagne, and so succeeded in
poisoning the latter's mind against his bride, that he either divorced
or repudiated her, and married a Lombardian princess called
Desiderata.
Accepting her fate resignedly, Hildegarde eventually found her way to
Rome, where she devoted herself to the care of the sick, and
especially of the sick pilgrims who came to the "Eternal City." In
course of time, so the story goes, her revengeful lover, whose name,
Taland, is almost as common a one in Tyrol as Smith in England, having
lost his sight, came on a pilgrimage, and whilst in Rome was cared for
by Hildegarde, "whose tender and saintly hands," we are told, "not
only restored his physical sight, but also his moral perception of
right and wrong."
He was so overcome with remorse when he learned to whom, under
Providence, he owed his restoration to sight, that he confessed his
fault to Hildegarde, and insisted upon accompanying her to
Charlemagne, to whom he also confessed, and proved Hildegarde to have
been blameless. The Emperor at once restored her to favour and honour.
In another story connected with Bregenz, which was made the subject of
a poem by the late Adelaide Ann Proctor, one has preserved an incident
connected with the heroic conduct of a Bregenz woman in saving the
town from surprise and destruction by the Swiss. There are several
versions of the story, which dates from 1408, but probably, as it is
of a legendary character, the one given in the ballad is as correct as
any other.
Unhappily, the Bregenz folk of to-day appear to know little of this
heroine; and on one occasion on which we visited the town, and made a
search for the effigy of the Maid and her steed on the gate of the old
castle, or walls of the upper town, we were unable to find it. No one
seemed to know the story of the "Maid of Bregenz," and an old lady,
who had a temporary stall outside the gate for the sale of cakes and
other refreshments, became quite irascible upon our persisting in the
belief that there must have been a "Maid," and that she (the old lady)
ought to know the legend.
"There is no 'Maid of Bregenz,'" she said angrily at last. Adding,
after a pause, during which she looked us up and down as though to
decide upon our nationality, "But mad English people have asked me
hundreds of times about her. I know nothing. There is no more to be
said."
And with this she returned to her perusal of the paper she had been
reading when we accosted her, and we had to be content.
We made our way down the somewhat rugged and steep road to the lower
town a little crestfallen, although the view of the lake in the late
afternoon sunshine of a July day was exquisite beyond description, the
water deep blue and green in patches, with the incoming and outgoing
boats and steamers leaving frothy-white or rippling wakes behind them
almost as long as they themselves remained in sight. One determination
we came to. It was in future not to inquire too closely into such
pretty and poetical stories as that of the "Maid of Bregenz," and not
to allow our desire for legendary or antiquarian knowledge to permit
us to run the risk of further disillusionment.[28]
We did not find the effigy of "the maid and her milk-white steed," on
which she had ridden over the Swiss frontier and swum across the Rhine
to warn the inhabitants of her old home of a projected attack by the
Swiss amongst whom she had gone to dwell in service. The genial
proprietor of the Oesterreichischer Hof, we found, had heard of "the
Maid." Alas! not from his fellow-townsfolk (who should have cherished
her memory), but, like the old lady in the upper town, from English
tourists, who had, doubtless, climbed the steep ascent on a similar
errand of inquiry and research to our own.
"Maid" or no maid, however, Bregenz is delightful, and well deserves
the title of "pearl of the Vorarlberg" which has been bestowed upon
it. In its quaint old streets, its Capuchin Convent, which is so
prominent a feature, standing as it does upon a wooded knoll of the
Gebhardsberg, and its fine church, to the south on another eminence,
with an ancient and weather-worn tower, there is plenty of interest.
Picturesque the place most certainly is, and the effect is greatly
heightened by the near presence of the lake, which stretches away in
front of the town to fair Constance in the far distance.
[Sidenote: FAREWELL, TYROL]
In leaving Tyrol by way of beautiful Bregenz, washed as it is by the
waters of one of the most delightful of Swiss lakes, one carries with
one a last impression which is fragrant with the memories of a
hospitable race, charming scenery, and innumerable things of historic,
artistic, and antiquarian interest. There is, indeed, no other gate
through which one would rather leave this "Land within the Mountains,"
which, as yet unspoiled by crowds of tourists and general
sophistication and the deterioration which arises therefrom, lures one
to return to it again and again.
FOOTNOTES:
[26] By a strange coincidence, whilst the following description of
this interesting and charming village was actually being written, the
news of its almost total destruction by fire reached the author,
necessitating the omission of some details. Many of the houses,
however, have been rebuilt, in much the same style as formerly.--C. H.
[27] Some authorities give the date as being several years
earlier.--C. H.
[28] It is possible that Miss Proctor's poem ("A Legend of Bregenz")
is founded upon the legendary story of Ehre Guta, who is reputed to
have delivered the country-folk of the Bregenz district from an attack
of the Appenzellers some time during the early part of the fifteenth
century.--C. H.
INDEX
A
Abbey of Wilten, 17
Abel of Cologne, work of, 99
Absam, 139-142
and Jakob Stainer, maker of violins, 139
dragon legend of, 140
painted houses at, 140
story of "Miraculous Window" at, 141
A buried city, 249
Adventures of Oswald von Wolkenstein, 217-220
Aeni, Pons, 7
A fifteenth-century "blue stocking," 194
Aguntum (Innichen) Station, 9
Albianum (Kufstein), 7
"A Legend of Bregenz," 326
Alemanni, the, 11
Alpine flowers at Cortina, 267
Alt, Salome, and Archbishop von Raitenau, 174
Altissimo di Nago, 253
Ambras, Castle, 113
Court at, 121
early history of, 114
the Hoch Schloss, 123
the tourney ground, 125
traditions, 124
treasures at, 123
Ancient palaces of Trent, 243-247
Andechs, family of, 16
Anif, castle of, 179
Anna Katharina Gonzaga of Mantua, 31
Anton Gump, Landhaus of, 84
Aquila Nera Inn, Cortina, 266
Araba, 273
Archduke Ferdinand, 29
Leopold, 31
Arco, 251
church at, 251
Arlberg tunnel, 72
Arms, summons to, 41
Arno, Bishop of Salzburg, 156
Art, collection at Innsbruck, 89
Art, world-famous collection, 30
Arthur, King of England, 93
Arzl, pilgrimage chapel of, 133
Augusta Vindelicorum, 6
Austerlitz, battle of, 38
Austria, emperors of, 32
Austrian, defeat of forces at Wagram, 43
B
Bad Ratzes, 278
Baiovarii, 12
Battle of Austerlitz, 38
Custozza, 50
Giants, 106
Leipsic, 49
Marengo and Hohenlinden, 37
Naïssus, 11
near the Brenner, 4
Sadowa, 50
Spinges, 228, 229
Vercelli, 3
Bavaria, Duke Louis of, 25
Bavarian occupation, 39
troops enter Tyrol, 43
Bavarians, 12
Belluno, cathedral at, 270
Bible incidents, oral versions of, 57
Biener, William, and Rattenberg, 291
story of, 291-293
Bishop of Freisingen, 20
Passau, 15
Bisson, General, surrender of, 41
Black Death, 21
Bludenz, 322
and "Frederick of the Empty Purse," 322, 323
Bohemia, Prince John of, 19
Bozen, 206-210
Calvarienberg, near, 211
description of, 206, 207
fine houses, 208
Franciscan monastery at, 210
history of, 207
Laubengasse at, 209
Parish Church, 209
(Pons Drusi), 8
Sarnthal costumes at, 210
Bozen, statue of von Vogelweide at, 209
Bregenz, 324-327
Capuchin convent, 327
Brenner route, the, 3
road, the, 8
history of, 10
Brixen, 226-228
cathedral of, 227, 228
bishop's palace at, 228
Brixlegg, 293
peasant plays at, 293, 294
Buchenstein, 270
Büchsenhausen, castle of, 97
Burg, the, 80
C
Campo Formio, treaty of, 37
Canazei, 274
Caprile, 271
Castle Ambras, 113
Court at, 121
early history of, 114
the Hoch Schloss, 123
the tourney ground, 125
traditions of, 124
treasures at, 123
Castle Tyrol, 16
siege of, 22
Castle of Büchsenhausen, 97
Frundsberg, 303
Lizzana, 248
Runkelstein, 211
Castle of Runkelstein, frescoes of, 211, 212
Schonna, near Meran, 203
Starkenberg, 68
Tratzberg, 295
Trautson, 231
Trostburg, 216, 217
Cathedral, Belluno, 270
Brixen, 227, 228
Salzburg, 171, 172
Cathedral, Salzburg, burning of, 171
Trent, 241
Catherine of Saxony, 27
Catholic persecutions, 161
Cavalese, 276
bishop's palace at, 276
Cell, Maximilian's, 85
Cenotaph, Maximilian's, description of panels surrounding, 99
description of, 98
Ceremonials, pathetic, 60
Chapel, pilgrimage, of Maria Larch, 145
Silver, Innsbruck, 97
Silver, Innsbruck, statues in, 103
Charlemagne, empire of, 13, 14
reforms by, 15
Chasteler, General, 42
Church of the Servites, Innsbruck, 84
Jesuit, Innsbruck, 85
of Maria Waldrast, near Matrei, 231
Madonna alle Laste, near Trent, 247
Cimbri, the invasion of, 2
Civil war, 21, 25
Conquest of the country, Roman, 6
Constance, Council of, 25
Cortina, 265, 266
church at, 266
famous inn at, 266
festivals at, 265
frescoes at, 266
Costumes of Innsbruck, 75
at Feldkirch, 323
at St. Ulrich, 226
national, of Tyrol, 82
the Sarnthal, 210
Tyrol, 63
Council of Constance, 25
Trent, 236-240
Counts of Tyrol, 16, 17
Court at Castle Ambras, 121
Innsbruck, 80
Customs, curious wedding, 64
quaint Tyrolean, 59
Custozza, battle of, 50
D
Dante and the Castle Lizzana, 248
Trentino, 242
Val Sacra, 243
"Das Land im Gebirge," 13
Death, Black, 21
Defregger, Franz, historical masterpieces of, 90
Dialect, concerning, 225
Diaries of early travel, 14
of the Bishop of Passau, 15
Dolomite district, 255
groups, 261, 262
scenery, 258
Dolomites, 254-280
characteristics of the, 260
formation of, 256, 257
inns and hotels in the, 259
theories concerning, 256
theories of origin of, 257
touring in, 259
Dreiheiligen Kirche (Holy Trinity), 86
Drusi, Pons (Bozen), 8
Drusus, 4, 6
Duke Ernest, 25
Frederick, 24, 25
Louis of Bavaria, 25
Sigismund, 26
E
Eggenthal, famous waterfall in the, 213
Eleanora, daughter of James I. of Scotland, 194
Vincenzo of Mantua, 31
Emperor Theodoric the Goth, 93
Empire, Charlemagne's, 14
"Empty Purse, Frederick of the," 24
Enneberger, 271
Epiphany performances, 60
Eppans, the, 16
Ernest, Duke--reconciliation of Duke Frederick, 25
Etruria, ancient language of, 53
Evangelic Union, 170
F
Falzarego Pass, 270
Fassa Thal, 275, 279
Feldkirch, 323
costumes at, 323
engagement near, 37
Ferdinand, Archduke, 29
Tomb of, 102
Festival of St. Vigilius, 234
Festivals at Cortina, 265
First Counts of Tyrol, 17
Fleimse Thal, 276
Florus, the historian, 5
Franz Defregger, historical masterpieces of, 90
Franzenfeste, 229
Frauenberg, Conrad of, 23
Frederick, Duke, 24
reconciliation of Duke Ernest, 25
of the "Empty Pocket," story of, 73
Freisingen, Bishop of, 20
French, Bavarian and Saxon troops enter Tyrol, 43
French Revolution, 36
Frundsberg, Georg von, 308-310
Fugger, George, story of, 243-246
Fulpmes, 131
G
Gaisberg, 179, 180
view from, 180
Gebhardsberg, 327
General Bisson, 41
Chasteler, 42
Georgenberg, St., 295
ancient shrine at, 296
dishonest abbot of, 300
miracle of, 296
origin of the Church of, 298
Germanization of Tyrol, 53
Ghostly Legend, A, 69
Giants, battle of, 106
Gilg Sesselschreiber, 95
flight to Augsburg, 96
Golden Roof, the, 79
"Goldener Adler," 81
Goths and Huns, 12
Goths, Emperor Theodoric of the, 93
Goths, inroads of the, 11
Grafschaften, 15
"Grape Cure" at Meran, 198, 200
Grape Harvest at Meran, 200
Grasleiten Pass, 277
"Great Week" in Tyrolese history, 45
Grödenerthal, ascents in, 273
H
Habsburgs, schemes of the, 22
Haimon and the Dragon, 107
Hall, 134-138
interesting church of, 137
Münsterturm at, 135
St. Saviour's church, 138
salt mines, 135
Haspinger, the Capuchin Monk, 38
Haydn, Michael, at Salzburg, 185
Heilig Wasser, 128
Hellbrunn, Chateau of, 176-178
gardens and fountains, 177
mechanical theatre at, 178
Monatsschlösschen at, 178
stone theatre at, 178
Henry, youngest son of Meinhard II., 17
Herzog-Friedrich-strasse, arcades of the, 82
Highway, Tyrol, 14
Historian Florus, 5
Historic Events, Innsbruck, 101
Historical masterpieces of Franz Defregger, 90
History of the Statues at Hofkirche, 94
History in Marble, Innsbruck, 99
Hofburg, the, Innsbruck, 91
Hofer Andreas, 37, 46
birth of, 38
commander-in-chief, 40
"battle cry" of, 44
triumph of, 45
Hofer's nickname, 45
Hofer named dictator of Tyrol, 46
capture of, 48
led forth to die, 48
death of, 49
tomb of, 102
in the Meran "Hero Plays," 195, 196
Hofkirche, the, Innsbruck, 92, 104
History of the statues, 94
Hohen-Salzburg, 167-170
description of, 167
sieges of, 169
cable railway, 169
Hohen Tauern, range, 150
Hohenlinden, battle of, 37
Hollaner von Hohenfelsen, 315
Horace, 4
Hostelries, 10
Huns and Goths, 12
I
Igls, 126
Inhabitants, original, 1
Innichen (Aguntum) Station, 9
church and village, 262
Inns and hostelries, 10
ancient, 81, 275
Innsbruck, approach to, 72
art collection, 89
attractions of, 110
capture of, 42
character of, 74
costumes and uniforms at, 75
famous statues, 97
gaieties, 73
gay court at, 80
historical masterpieces of Franz Defregger, 90
Jesuit church at, 85
market types, 83
Marktgraben, 83
Maximilian's Tomb, 93
Maximilian's, description of, Cenotaph, 98, 99
mediæval buildings in, 81
museum treasures, 89
National Museum, 87
plague, 86
rise of, 76
rulers, 77
Silver chapel at, 97
site of, 5
some historic events at, 101
the environs of, 113-132
the Hofburg, 91
the Hofkirche, 92
the newer town, 87
winter sports at, 111
Invaders, Teutonic, 13
J
Jews, the, 21
John, Prince of Bohemia, 19, 21
Julium Carnicum (Zuglio) station, 9
K
Kapuzingerberg, view from, 180
Karrersee, 213, 276
Kastelruth, 278
Kerpen, General, 36
King Arthur of England, 93
Kitzbühel, 287, 288
sports at, 288
Kitzbühlerhorn, ascent of, 287
Klausen, 215
story of a nun, 216
Kufstein, 281-287
castle of, 282-284
siege of, 283, 284
plundering of, 284
Maximilian at, 283, 284
legend of, 285, 286
L
Ladin, the dialect of the Grödenerthal, 225
Lake Missurina, 262
Landeck, 319, 320
church of, 319
Landhaus of Anton Gump, 84
Landtag, first Tyrolean, 26
Language, the Tyrol, 55
Larch, Maria, pilgrimage chapel of, 145
Latemar, curious customs relating to, 276
Laudon, General, 36
Legend of Castle of Tratzberg, 302
a ghostly, 69
Chapel of Madonna alle Laste, 247, 248
Kufstein Castle, 285, 286
St. Leonard auf der Wiese, 289, 290
San Marco, 249
the Sclavini di San Marco, 248-250
Legends of the Rosengarten, 214
Tyrol, 55
Wilten, 109
Leipsic, battle of, 49
Leopold, Archduke, 31
I., Emperor, 34
II., Emperor, 35
Lienz (Lonicum) station, 9
Lizzana, Castle, 248
Löffler, Gregor, and Castle of Büchsenhausen, 97
Lonicum (Lienz) station, 9
Lotzer Thal, 321
Louis, Duke of Bavaria, 25
Lueg Pass, 151
Luneville, treaty of, 37
M
Madonna alle Laste, chapel of, 247
"Maid of Spinges," 229
"Maid of Bregenz," 325, 326
Mantua, Anna Katharina Gonzaga of, 31
Eleanor Vincenzo of, 31
Marco, San, 249
Marengo, battle of, 37
Maria Larch, church of, 145
Maria Theresa, empress, 34
Maria Waldrast, chapel of, 231
Marriage in Tyrol, 61
Martin, St., home of Speckbacher, 144
Martinswand, 313-315
Maximilian's adventure on the, 313-315
Masciacum (Matzen), 7
Massena, general, 37
Matrei, 231
church of Maria Waldrast, 231
Matrejum (Matrei), 8
Matzen, Schloss, 294, 295
Maurice of Saxony, 30
Max-Höhle at Zirl, 315
Maximilian, 28
Maximilian's cell, 85
tomb, Innsbruck, 93
Cenotaph description, 98
Medriol Thal, 321
Meinhard II., youngest son of, 17
untimely end, 23
Meran, 192-201
architecture of, 193
the Burg, 193
the Landesfürstliche Burg, 193, 194
gardens of, 195
"Hero Plays" at, 195, 196
costumes at, 197
"grape cure" at, 198
the "Saltner" at, 199
sports and pastimes at, 201
castles near, 201-203
Merchants, Venetian, 27
Michael, St., 144
Milser, Oswald, 316, 317
Mines, salt, 9
Mirabell, Schloss, garden of, 174, 175
Missurina Lake, 263
Monasteries, suppression of, 35
Mönchsberg, early church in, 153
walk along the, 182, 183
Mozart's birthplace, 184
relics in, 184
Mozart-Häuschen on the Kapuzingerberg, 181
furniture and relics in, 181
Mozart-Häuschen, beautiful garden of, 182
Muhldorf, battle of, 157
Munatius Plancus, 4
Museum, National, at Innsbruck, 87
treasures, 89
Myths of Tyrol, 55
N
Naïssus, battle of, 11
Napoleonic wars and Salzburg, 163
Nave d'Oro, inn, 275
Nonnberg, convent on the, 183
Gothic chapel of the, 183
O
Ober-Innthal, through the, 311-327
Original inhabitants of Tyrol, 1
Ostrogothic leader, Theodoric, 12
Oswald Milser, 316, 317
Ottoburg, the, 81
P
Paneveggio, 279
Paris von Lodron, archbishop, 171
Passau, bishop of, 15
Passeier Valley, 205
Hofer's hiding-place in, 205
Peace of Westphalia, 160
Peasants' revolt at Salzburg, 159
Persecution by Catholics, 161
Petermann, lover of Margaret of Tyrol, 108
Philippine Welser, tomb of, 102
romantic story of, 115-120
character of, 119
death of, 122
Pienzenau, story of Governor, 283, 284
Plague, ravages of the, 86
at Trent, 238
Plancus, Munatius, 4
Plätz-Wiese, 268
Pliny, quotation from, 9
Plutarch's "Marius," 3
"Pocket-Mouthed Meg," 18, 23, 108
Pons Aeni, 7
Pons Drusi (Bozen), 8
Pontlatzerbrucke, 320
Porta Claudia, Scharnitz, 318
Post Road, Brenner, 7
Power of Rome, 11
Pragser Lake or Wildsee, 269
Predazzo, 274, 275
Nave d'Oro inn, 275
Pressburg, treaty of, 38, 40
Prince counts of Tyrol, 17
Prince John of Bohemia, 19
Princess Catherine of Saxony, 27
Protestants, expulsion of, 161
"Pulpit bride," the, 61
R
Rattenberg, 290
castle of, 291
history of, 291
Reforms by Charlemagne, 15
Regent, Archduke Leopold as, 31
Revolution, French, 36
Rhætians, the, 4, 7
their dialect, 53
Rhæto-Roman stations, 8
Riva, 252, 253
parish church of, 252
Roman conquest of the country, 6
occupation of Rhætia, 7
Rhæto-, stations, 8
Rome, power of, 11
Romedius, St., story of, 133, 134
Rosengarten, 213-215
excursions in the, 215
legend of, 214
Route, the Brenner, 3, 7
Roveredo, 250, 251
churches of, 251
Rudolph IV., 24
Rulers, Innsbruck's, 77
Rum, village of, 133
Runkelstein, castle of, 211
frescoes at, 211, 212
Rupert, St., at Salzburg, 155
S
Sadowa, battle of, 50
St. Leonard auf der Wiese, 288, 289
St. Martin, village of, 203
Hofer's inn at, 204
Hofer relics at, 205
St. Peter's church, Salzburg, 185
cemetery, Salzburg, 186
monastery, Salzburg, 186
St. Romedius, story of, 133, 134
St. Ulrich, costume at, 226
quaint guide-book to, 226
toy industry of, 222, 223
village of, 221, 222
St. Vigilius, festival of, 234
Salome Alt and Archbishop von Raitenau, 174
and Schloss Mirabell, 174
Salsbund, the, 161
Salt mines, 9
discovery of, 142, 143
"Saltner," the, at Meran, 199
Salzach Valley, 151
Salzburg, 147-191
beauty of, 147
Salzburg, approach to, 148
province of, 149
in Roman times, 152
building of, 153
history of, 154
rise of, 155
early rulers of, 157
the Reformation and peasant revolt at, 159
province of, during French invasions, 162
luxurious archbishops of, 164
rebuilding of, 165, 166
ancient fortress of, 167
cathedral, burning of, 171
cathedral, 171, 172
Residenz-Platz, 172
St. Peter's church, 185
monastery, 186
cemetery, 186
Carolina-Augusteum museum, 186
special features, 187
peasants' ball at, 188, 189
a curious custom, 190
the market, 191, 192
Sandyland, birth of Andreas Hofer, 38
San Martino, 279
Sarnthal, costumes of the, 210
Saxon troops enter Tyrol, 43
Saxony, Princess Catherine of, 27
Maurice of, 30
Scarbio (Scharnitz), 8
Scenery, Tyrol, 1
Schabs (Sebatum) station, 9
Scharnitz, 318
defence of, by Swinburne, 318
Schlern, the, 277
Schloss Mirabell and Salome Alt, 174
gardens of, 174, 175
Zenoburg, Meran, 201
Rubein, Meran, 201
Tyrol, near Meran, 202
" description of, 202, 203
Matzen, description of, 294, 295
Schluderbach, 264
Schmalkald, war of the, 29
Schonberg, 131
Schonna, castle of, 203
Schwaz, 303-308
silver mines at, 304
curious church at, 307
Sclavini di San Marco, 248-250
Sebatum (Schabs) station, 9
Servites, church of the, 84
Sesselschreiber, Gilg, 95
flight to Augsburg, 95
Sigismund, duke, 26
Silver chapel, Innsbruck, 97
statues, 103
Site of Innsbruck, 5
Spanish Succession, War of the, 33
Speckbacher, birth of, 38
Spinges, Battle of, 228, 229
maid of, 229
engagement of, 36
Sports, Tyrolese, 67
at Kitzbühel, 287, 288
at Meran, 201
winter, at Innsbruck, 111
Starkenberg, Castle of, 68
Stations, Rhæto-Roman, 8
Tricesimum, 9
Julium Carnicum (Zuglio), 9
Aguntum (Innichen), 9
Lonicum (Lienz), 9
Sebatum (Schabs), 9
Statues, famous, at Innsbruck, 97
" " Hofkirche, 94
in Silver Chapel, Innsbruck, 103
Sterzing (Vilpetenum), 8
Sterzing, 229-231
Rathaus at, 230
church at, 230
Stilfes, gorge of, 44
Story of Charlemagne and Hildegarde, 324, 325
a nun, 216
Georg von Frundsberg, 308-310
Governor Pienzenau, 283, 284
Heilig Wasser, 128
Oswald Milser, 316, 317
Oswald von Wolkenstein, 217-220
Pastor Söll, 306
Philippine Welser, 115-120
St. Romedius and the Bear, 133, 134
Teufelspalast, Trent, 244-246
the "Maid of Bregenz," 325, 326
Strange natural phenomena, 131
Stubai Valley, 129
Bahn, 130
Summons to arms, 41
Superstitions of Tyrol, 55
Swinburne and Scharnitz, 318
T
Telfs, 318
Territory, New, 29
Teutonic Invaders, 13
Thaur, 133
village of, 56
Theodoric, Emperor of the Goths, 93
the Ostrogothic leader, 12
Thirty Years' War, 33
Tiberius, 4, 6
Toblach, 263
Tomb of Archduke Ferdinand and Philippine Welser, 102
Tomb of Hofer, 102
Maximilian, 93
"Toy-land," 223, 224
Tratzberg, castle of, 301, 302
Maximilian rooms, 301, 302
story of, 302, 303
Trautson, castle of, 231
Travel, diaries of early, 14
Treaty of Campo Formio, 37
Luneville, 37
Pressburg, 38, 40
Vienna, 47
Tre Croci Pass, 265
Trent (Tridentum), 8
Trent, 233-247
ancient, 235
" palaces of, 243-247
cathedral of, 241
church of Santa Maria Maggiore, 240
Claudia Porticelli, story of, 243
Council of, 236-240
Dante and, 242
decrees of the Council of, 238
end of the Council of, 240
festival of St. Vigilius at, 234
foundation of, 233
museum, 242
opening of the Council of, 236
plague at, 238
story of the organ-builder of, 241
Teufelspalast, 244-246
Tricesimum, Roman station of, 9
Tridentum (Trent), 8
Trostburg, castle, 216, 217
Tunnel, Arlberg, 72
Types, ancient, along the highway, 14
Types, market, Innsbruck, 83
Tyrol scenery, 1
inhabitants, 1
types along the great highway, 14
Counts of, 16, 17
castle of, 16
possession of, 32
population of, 37
French, Bavarian, and Saxon troops enter, 43
Hofer, dictator of, 46
as Bavarian territory, 47
triple division of, 49
description of, 52
Germanization of, 53
the language of, 55
legends, superstitions, and myths of, 55
Wälsch, 57
Tyrol folk-lore, tales of, 57
quaint customs relating to Christmas in, 59
Epiphany performances, 60
pathetic ceremonials in, 60
marriage in, 61
bride's procession, 62
costumes of, 63
curious wedding customs, 64
sports and wrestling in, 67
national costume of, 82
Margaret of, 108
"Toy-land" in, 223
Tyrolean dances, 66
Landtag, first, 26
wedding, 65
Tyrolese character, 56
history, in--as "the Great Week," 45
masters, works of the, 89
sports, 67
U
Ulrich, St., 221, 222
church at, 225
costume at, 226
quaint guide-book to, 226
toy industry of, 222, 223
University, of Innsbruck, 84
Unter-Innthal, vast mineral wealth of, 27
through the, 281-310
V
Val Sacra and Dante, 243
Val Sugana, 280
Veldidena, 5, 8
Vendome, General, 33
Venetian merchants, 27
Vercelli, 3
Via Claudia Augusta, 8
Vienna, treaty of, 47
Vigilius, St., festival of, 234
Vilpetenum (Sterzing), 8
Vindelicorum, Augusta, 6
Vineyards at Meran, 199, 200
Von Keutschach, Bishop Leonhard, 158
Von Lodron, Paris, archbishop, 171
Von Raitenau, Bishop Wolf Dietrich, 160, 170
Von Vogelweide, statue of, 209
Von Wolkenstein, story of, 217-220
Vorarlberg, words and expressions used in, 54
W
Wagram, defeat of Austrian forces at, 43
Waidbruck, 272
War, Civil, 21
of the Schmalkald, 29
of the Spanish Succession, 33
Thirty Years', 33
Wasser, Heilig, story of, 128
Wealth, vast mineral, 27
Wedding, a Tyrolean, 65
customs, 64
Weisslahn-Bad, 278
Welser, Philippine, character of, 119
death of, 122
romantic story of, 115-120
tomb of, 102
Westphalia, Peace of, 160
Wildsee, Pragser, 269
Wilten (Veldidena), 8
abbey of, 17
a legend of, 109
story and description of abbey of, 105
Woodcarvers of St. Ulrich, 222, 223
Wrestling, Tyrolese, 67
Z
Zillerthal maidens, 59
Zirl, 311-316
Calvarienberg of, 312
Maximilian at, 313-315
painted houses of, 312
Zuglio (Julium Carnicum), Roman station of, 9
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