CHAPTER XXXVIII.

WINDOW DECORATION.

NOW, girls, we must have practicable ideas in regard to our

decorations; they should consist of something which we _know_ will be

easy to make and at the same time look well; the materials employed

must be within possible reach of all, and nothing expensive or

difficult to obtain allowed to enter into their manufacture. What

are commonly called Dutch curtains are very popular; they are short

curtains of some thin, transparent fabric, fastened with rings to a

slender rod of bamboo, and when drawn, cover the lower part of the

window without intercepting the light. The curtains are very useful,

but, while they do not obstruct the light, they do obstruct the vision.

We all know that the front window is just the place to sit when sewing

or doing fancy-work, and although few ladies care to be seen by every

passer-by, yet they all like to see what is going on outside, and

while their deft fingers ply the needle their bright eyes take in the

landscape out of doors and derive amusement and entertainment from the

birds and flowers, if it be in the country, or the ever-moving throng,

if in the city.

An ornamental screen, therefore, that will shield one and yet not

interfere with the view is desirable. What might be termed the

=Oriental Window-Shade=

not only comes up to the above requirements, but is inexpensive, and

not difficult to construct.

[Illustration: Fig. 357.—Manner of Making Fringe for Oriental

Window-shade.]

[Illustration: Fig. 358.—Fringe of Macaroni and Beads.]

Make a small lawn-tennis net, long enough to reach across the width of

the window and about eight inches deep; make loops of the rope on the

ends for hanging the screen to knobs or hooks screwed in the framework

of the window; spread the net out and fasten it up on a door, between

two chairs, or any convenient place; then cut a number of pieces of

fine twine, about four feet long, and attach them, a quarter of an inch

apart, along the bottom rope (Fig. 357); A shows a loosened loop and

B the tightened ones. The ends of the twine hang free. On each double

strand string glass beads and slender pieces of bamboo, reeds, painted

clay pipe-stems, or macaroni broken in pieces of equal length and used

in their natural color, or painted with oil-paints to any desired tint.

Have the reeds four inches long, and thread them on alternately with

the beads (Fig. 358); or you can form a design by cutting the reeds

into different lengths; at the end of each strand fasten a large bead

or glass button. A very simple

=Ribbon-Curtain=

is of red, blue, yellow, and black ribbons all cut the same length and

sewed, a quarter of an inch apart, on a narrow strip of black cloth

long enough to reach across the window. The strip may be used as a

band, or attached to a slender pole by means of small brass rings. The

ribbons should be silk, and thin enough to admit of the light shining

through; they hang down fringe-like, with three glass beads fastened on

the end of each ribbon (Fig. 359 or Fig. 360). If you prefer to have

the shade all one color make it yellow, which gives a pleasant, mellow

light. Any pattern you choose can be made by taking short pieces of

ribbon and joining them together with glass beads. In this way bits

of ribbon could be utilized, but those used must be semi-transparent,

showing the color when held up to the light. Even smooth pieces of silk

with their edges neatly hemmed might do service, only be very careful

to join either ribbon or silk with the beads in such a manner as to

prevent its twisting; the beads must be heavy enough to keep the fringe

straight.

[Illustration: Fig. 359.]

[Illustration: Fig. 360.—Beads on the Ends of Ribbons.]

Nearly all homes have their bags of silk and worsted pieces, and from

these can be made a handsome

=Drapery of Very Small Scraps.=

Cut the pieces of silk or worsted into squares about an inch each way,

using any and all colors; then take a piece of twine of the length

you desire your curtain, and with a large needle string the bright

bits on the twine until the whole string is completely and closely

covered; next fasten the twine well to prevent its slipping, and with

a large pair of scissors trim off the rough edges of the silken strand

until the surface is rounded and even; on one end attach a small brass

curtain-ring, and on the other a heavy bead or button; make as many

strands as you will need to hang across the window and fasten them to

a pole in which small hooks have been screwed.

This drapery resembles chenille; it is rich in color, will wear well,

and is best adapted for full-length curtains.

As a substitute for stained glass we give directions for

=Painting Window-Panes.=

These are very pretty and satisfactory. If good designs are chosen the

window will surpass in beauty your expectations.

The materials necessary are: some of Winsor & Newton’s transparent

colors, such as rose-madder, Prussian blue, raw and burnt umber, burnt

sienna, ultramarine, gamboge, ivory-black, viridian green, and orient

yellow. Any transparent color can be used. For purple, mix rose-madder

with Prussian blue.

Prepare the paints to be used by mixing each color separately with a

little oil and siccatif Courtray. Almost any brush will do to paint

with, but one of medium size made for oil-colors is the best, and

another smaller one is necessary for the outlining, which takes the

place of leading in stained glass. The dabber is a ball of raw cotton

tied in a piece of fine cotton-cloth, and the manner of tinting or

grounding is exactly the same as in china-painting; lac-varnish will be

needed as a wash after the painting has dried.

When you have an opportunity, carefully examine real stained-glass

windows, and you will see that each window is one complete design. The

corners and borders are usually in rich, dark colors, while the central

portion is of lighter tints or clear glass.

[Illustration: Fig. 361.—Border Pattern.]

[Illustration: Fig. 362.—Cracked Glass.]

Always make your corners and borders first, and if you desire a

centre-piece, it should be placed in position next, and the space

between it and the border filled in afterward. A Gothic window may be

imitated by painting the corners black, thus making it arched at the

top. Very often good patterns can be found in the many art and fashion

papers. One copy may serve for an entire border, if it be pasted at

the four corners to one pane of glass, and, when that is outlined,

removed and gummed to the next, and so on until the border is finished.

Fig. 361 is intended as a border. Fig. 362 is a very simple pattern

of cracked glass, which you can readily make without any copy. Place

a ruler across the woodwork of the window-pane, first one way, then

another, and with its aid paint your straight lines, being careful not

to have any two run parallel. A conventional design is always to be

preferred. Should any mistakes occur during the progress of the work,

remove the paint with a cloth dampened with turpentine and try again.

The painting is not difficult, and the only delays are in waiting for

the colors to dry.

First decide on your design, then trace it, making the outlines heavy

and black; gum the pattern by the four corners to the outside of

the window-pane, which it is essential to have perfectly clean and

dry; close the window, and with a small brush dipped in black paint

follow the outlines of your copy, keeping the lines of equal thickness

throughout; when this is finished remove the pattern. In the same

manner go over all the outlines you wish to make on the window, then

leave the color to harden and dry, which will probably require hours.

Begin again by laying on flat washes of paint to match the prevailing

colors of the copy, and use the dabber in tinting each color as it is

applied, so the surface may be even and uniform. While the decoration

is drying it is best to protect it from dust by pinning up a newspaper

or a large piece of cloth on the window-frame. When dry, the painting

can be touched up if necessary.

After the last color has entirely dried apply a wash of white

lac-varnish; when this is dry give the window another coat of

lac-varnish and then it will be finished. Should your copies be in

black and white, use your own taste in coloring the glass.

Another method of imitating stained glass is

=Painting on Lawn,=

batiste, or any kind of sheer white muslin. For this you will need the

same paints that are used for painting on glass; these are mixed only

with turpentine and the color put on as a stain.

Cut a piece of new thin white batiste large enough to cover a

window-sash, with a margin left for turning in, and make an outline on

it of the exact size of the sash; then select your pattern and place

the lawn over it, when the outlines should show through; trace these

carefully with gum-arabic dissolved, but made _very_ stiff, and when

the entire design has been traced let the gum dry; then go over it with

ivory-black unmixed; this latter makes the leading; be careful to keep

the lines even and of the same size. When the outlines have dried fill

in the spaces with the stains made of paint and turpentine; the gum

prevents the colors from spreading. When the paint has dried you may

add a few touches where they are needed, and the stained-glass design

will be ready to place on the window. Use stiff mucilage or tiny tacks

to keep it in place, having first turned in the margin left for the

purpose.

An attractive window can be made with the upper sash of imitation

stained glass, while the lower one is screened by a Dutch curtain, as

in the illustration.

For the benefit of those who prefer sewing to painting we now tell how

to

=Imitate Stained Glass=

with a piece of stiff white rice-net, such as is commonly used for

bonnet-frames, and some pieces of thin batiste, or lawns, of the

requisite colors. Cut the rice-net the proper size and lay it over your

design; then carefully trace off the pattern; when all the outlines

are finished cut the different-colored lawns of the shape and size to

correspond to the different portions of the design; baste these on

in the places they must occupy; then sew them on with the Automatic

Sewing-machine, following with coarse black thread the outlines on the

wrong side of the foundation, so that the chain-stitch will appear on

the right side to form the leading; or the stitching may be made by

hand, or a very narrow black braid can be used as leading. When all the

batiste is sewed on, cut out the net back of the design to allow the

light to shine through.

We have seen such an imitation of stained glass, and when placed up

against the window it was very good; but care must be taken to have the

colored lawns thin and of the right shades; if too heavy they obstruct

the light and the colors do not look bright.

For full-length window-drapery of inexpensive material there may be

had at any of the leading dry-goods stores beautiful soft fabrics, in

yellows and different colors, the designs of which equal those of much

higher-priced goods. These draperies hang in graceful folds and come

as low as ten cents a yard; some of them are also well adapted for the

useful Dutch curtains.

[Illustration: Fig. 363.—Imitation of Ground Glass.]

[Illustration: Fig. 364.—Folded Paper with Diamond Pattern for

Imitation of Ground Glass.]

[Illustration: Fig. 365.—Paper Marked with Design for Imitation of

Ground Glass.]

=Windows of Imitation Ground Glass=

can be made of white tissue-paper, cut in simple patterns and fastened

on the inside of the glass with white lac-varnish. The window must be

perfectly clean and dry. If possible have the pieces of tissue-paper

exactly the same size as the window-panes, fold and refold the paper

lengthwise until it is an inch or so in width; then cut from stiff

cardboard your pattern. If it be a diamond, as in Fig. 363, have it

exact, and cut it in halves; use one-half as a pattern, place this on

the edge of the paper, as in Fig. 364, and with a lead pencil draw a

line around it; remove the pattern and place it lower down about a

quarter of an inch from the first tracing, and again mark around the

edge. Continue in the same way until you have the pattern marked on the

entire length of the tissue-paper. Make the same pattern on the other

edge of the paper (Fig 365). Cut out the pattern, then unfold the paper

and smooth it free of wrinkles; give the window-pane a thin coating of

white lac-varnish, and apply the paper, being very careful to have it

_perfectly_ smooth when on the glass. Sometimes it is necessary to join

two or more pieces of paper, but if you are careful to make the edges

come _exactly_ together, the joins will not be noticeable.

Lac-varnish dries very quickly, and it takes only a short time to

decorate a window in this manner.

When all the panes of glass are covered with tissue-paper, finish by

varnishing each one with the white lac-varnish; at a little distance it

is difficult to distinguish a window so covered from one really formed

of ground glass.

For bath-rooms, or where the window is rather out of the way and the

outlook not agreeable, the imitation of ground glass is suitable and

useful.

[Illustration]

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