A HEAP OF RUBBISH, AND WHAT TO DO WITH IT.
IN almost every house there is an attic, and in almost every attic
may be found a room where trunks are stored, where broken toys and
disabled furniture are put out of sight, and where all articles not
worth selling or giving away gradually accumulate until this attic
room contains, literally, a heap of rubbish. Entering one of these
lumber-rooms not long ago, and glancing over the medley which comprised
so much, from a tin can to a piece of broken bric-à-brac, the thought
occurred to me that something might be done with it, some use be made
of at least a few of the articles consigned to the place as utterly
useless.
That was rather a thrifty thought. Do you not think so, girls? Then let
us make the most of it and together venture back into that mysterious
and somewhat dusty chamber, and see if there really is anything there
worth the making over.
In imagination we will stand in our attic lumber-room and begin to look
about us with eyes and mind open to perceive possibilities.
On one side of the room, leaning against the wall, we see what was once
a handsome old-fashioned mirror, quite large and of heavy plate-glass.
It’s poor dusty face, reflecting dimly its barren surroundings, is
shattered in many pieces, and at first sight it seems hopeless to
attempt to restore it to the plane of beauty or usefulness; but do
not let us be hasty; we will examine it more closely. Yes, here is a
piece of glass large enough to frame. Never mind its uneven shape and
rough edges; we will work out that problem later. Now we must put it
carefully aside and continue our investigations.
Here is a large tin can, which can be made into a lantern to hang in
the hall, and this baking-powder can may be of some use, so we will
take it also.
The tops of three cheese-boxes; something should be done with them.
Perhaps they can be used for a table; put them with the other chosen
things.
A croquet-ball! That will make a fine key-rack. This box of silks and
ribbons we may need, and the large pasteboard-box will do for the
foundation of our mirror frame.
We must have this piece of old brass chain, this handful of large
nails, the pasteboard roll which has been used for sending engravings
through the mail, and that old broad-brimmed straw hat; also these
three broomsticks and the piece of nice dark-gray hardware paper.
Now, seated in our own room, let us see what we can do with this rather
unpromising array of objects spread around us. First we will try
=The Mirror,=
and must cast about us for the ways and means of framing it. The large
pasteboard-box we have already decided will make a good foundation.
After tearing off the sides, we will cut an even square from the
bottom, which is smooth and unwarped.
[Illustration: Fig. 323.—Brown Paper Pasted on Mirror and Pasteboard
for Home-made Mirror-frame.]
[Illustration: Fig. 324.—Bevel of Hardware Paper on Frame.]
[Illustration: Fig. 325.—The Outside Covering for Mirror-frame.]
[Illustration: Fig. 326.—Back of Frame with Tape Attached.]
Next laying the piece of mirror on the square of pasteboard we must
cut, out of ordinary brown wrapping-paper, a square two inches larger
all around than the pasteboard, make a hole in the centre as large as
the shape of the mirror will allow, and paste it down on the mirror
and pasteboard (Fig. 323). Then, after clipping out the corners, we
will turn the edges over on to the back of the pasteboard foundation
and paste them down. Cutting four strips of the hardware paper, about
two inches wide, we will fold them through the centre lengthwise and
paste them around the glass, lapping them just a little over the edge
of the other paper, the folded side being next to the glass (Fig. 324).
This will form a bevel for our frame. From the same paper we will now
cut a square, three inches larger on all sides than the foundation;
then, exactly in the centre, mark a square half an inch larger all
around than the square of mirror showing. In the centre of the square
marked out we must insert our scissors, cut it like Fig. 325, and after
clipping off the points, as indicated by the dotted lines L, M, O, N,
turn back the four pieces at the dotted lines, P, Q, R, S, leaving an
open square. Then placing it over the mirror so that the same width of
bevelled edge shows on all sides of the mirror, we must paste it down.
Clipping out the corners, as shown in diagram, we will bring the edges
over and paste them down securely to the back of the frame. A piece of
hardware paper, cut in a square one inch smaller than the frame, we
will paste on the back to finish it off and hide the edges of the paper
where they have been turned over (Fig. 326).
We must fasten on a piece of tape by which to hang the mirror, by
pasting down the ends of the tape on the frame (letter T, Fig. 326),
and pasting over each a strip of the hardware paper (letter U, Fig.
326). When the frame is quite dry we will paint a branch of dog-wood or
some light-colored flower across it, and have as pretty a little mirror
as anyone could wish for.
[Illustration: Home-made Mirror-frame.]
The next thing to commence will be
=The Table,=
which you can make yourselves by following these directions:
The three cheese-box lids will answer nicely as shelves for a work- or
bric-à-brac table, and the broomsticks, which are all the same length,
will do for the legs.
[Illustration: Fig. 327.—Narrow Grooves Cut around Broomstick for
Table-leg.]
[Illustration: Fig. 328.—Holes Bored in a Box-lid Used as a
Table-shelf.]
[Illustration: Fig. 329.—Manner of Fastening a Shelf to Table-leg.]
[Illustration: Fig. 330.—Table-shelf and Leg Fastened securely together
by Wire.]
[Illustration: Bric-à-brac Table.]
Upon each broomstick mark the distances for placing the shelves,
allowing six inches from each end of the stick for the top and bottom,
and the exact centre between these points for the middle shelf. With a
pocket-knife cut narrow grooves around each stick, one-half inch on
either side of the points marked on them (Fig. 327). This will make
six grooves on each stick. Now measure the box-lids to find their
circumferences, and divide them into thirds, marking the distances on
the rim to obtain the true position for the legs. At these points bore
four holes with a gimlet, one inch apart, two above and two below (Fig.
328). Through one of the top holes pass a piece of pliable wire, place
one of the broomsticks against the rim of the lid, pass the wire back
through the other upper hole (Fig. 329), fit it into the upper groove
of the stick, and draw it tight. Twice the wire must be put through the
upper holes and around the stick in the top groove; then, bringing it
down on the inside of the lid, you must put it twice through the lower
holes and around the stick in the lower groove; then twist the ends and
tuck them under the wire on the inside of the lid (Fig. 330). In this
way each leg will have to be fastened to each shelf. When the table
is all put together paint it black, and, as soon as it is dry, tie a
bright ribbon on one of the sticks at the top, and a charming little
bric-à-brac table will be the result of your labor.
You can make a very pretty
=Lantern=
of the old tin can; but first you must have some tools to work with;
not many, only a piece of wood, rounded on one side to fit into the
can, a hatchet or heavy hammer, and a few wrought iron nails. If the
piece of wood is not large enough to fit the can, another stick can
be put in to hold the first one firmly against the can. That being
arranged, you must decide upon some kind of a pattern to be made by the
holes, and indicate it on the can with a small paint-brush and paint or
ink; then, laying the can on its side, the rounded piece of wood being
at the top, with one of the wrought iron nails puncture the holes where
you have indicated the pattern. With the hammer drive the nail through
the tin into the wood; then draw it out, make another hole, and so on
until all the holes you wish are driven through that part of the can
held in place by the rounded piece of wood.
This wood, you see, keeps the can from bending when the nail is being
driven through. In moving the wood as the work progresses, you must
always keep it under that part of the can being punctured. To make the
large hole, you will have to put a number of the small holes close
together, and then drive the nail through the partitions, cutting them
away. The pattern being completed, puncture three holes, close to the
top of the can, at equal distances apart. These are for the chains to
pass through, by which to suspend the lantern. In the cover of the
baking-powder can make three holes at equal distances; then divide the
chain, which is about one yard and a quarter long, into three equal
lengths, separating the pieces by prying open the links. Put an end of
each piece through the holes made for them at the top of the can, and
fasten them by hooking the open links through the links of the chain a
little farther up, and hammering them together again.
Now pass the ends of the chains through the holes made in the lid of
the baking-powder can, and, bringing the ends together, fasten them by
joining the links.
[Illustration: Fig. 331. Fig. 332.—Stand in Lantern, with Nails for
Holding Candle.]
Paint the lantern, chain and all, black, and while it is drying make a
stand for the candle which is to furnish the light. A square piece of
thin board, just large enough to fit into the can without touching the
sides will do for the stand. Drive four small nails in the centre to
hold the candle (Fig. 331).
Make handles for lifting the stand in and out of the lantern, by
bending two pieces of wire like Fig. 331, and fastening them to the
board with staple tacks (Fig. 332).
[Illustration: Lantern.]
When the paint on the lantern is dry, paste red tissue-paper all around
the inside to give a cheerful red glow to the light, which will shine
through it. If you would like it to resemble a jewelled lantern, paste
different colored papers over the large holes and leave the small ones
open. An S hook passed through the loop made by the three chains will
serve to connect them to the chain which should suspend the lantern
from the ceiling.
=A Music-Roll=
can be made of the pasteboard roll.
Cut a round piece of pasteboard just the size to fit into one end of
the roll; then cut out another round piece, this time of paper, one
inch larger than that made of pasteboard. Clip the edges (Fig. 333) and
paste it over the end of the roll which is filled in with the round of
pasteboard (Fig. 334).
[Illustration: Fig. 333.—Paper Covering for End of Music-roll.]
[Illustration: Fig. 334.—Paper Pasted over End of Music-roll.]
Among the scraps of silk and ribbons you will, perhaps, find a
good-sized piece of dark-green or brown silk; use this for the case,
which must cover the roll neatly. To make the case fit the end of the
roll you have just filled up, mark on a piece of the silk a circle the
size of that end of the roll. This can be done by standing the roll
on the silk, and running a pencil around the edge. When cutting out
the silk leave a margin of a quarter of an inch on the outside of the
pencil-mark for the seam. Cut the silk for covering the roll three
inches longer than the roll, and wide enough to allow for a quarter of
an inch seam. Sew up the long seam, and then sew the round of silk into
the end of the case. Hem the other end of the case, and run in a narrow
ribbon about an inch from the edge. This is for a draw-string.
[Illustration: Music-roll.]
When the roll is fitted snugly in its case, tie a ribbon, matching it
in color, around the roll, making a loop to form the handle. Fasten the
ribbon by taking a few stitches under the bows, catching them on to the
silk.
The old straw hat can be transformed into a dainty
=Work-Basket.=
It is stiff and harsh at present, but pour boiling water over it and
the straw will become soft and pliable, and can be bent into any shape
you like. When dry, it will be again stiff, and will retain the form
you have given it. After scalding the hat bend the brim in toward the
centre, in four different places, at equal distances apart. This will
make a fluted basket. You must tie it in shape (Fig. 335) and leave
until perfectly dry; then bronze the basket, line it with silesia,
and sew silk or satin around the top to form a bag. Run a draw-string
of narrow ribbon near the top of the bag, and the pretty little
work-basket is finished.
[Illustration: Fig. 335.—Straw Hat Tied in Shape for a Work-basket.]
[Illustration: Work-basket.]
The croquet ball you can make into a
=Key and Button-Hook Rack.=
First you must gild it, and then around the middle of the ball, at
regular intervals, insert small brass hooks. A yellow ribbon and bow,
tacked on the top with small tacks, will serve to suspend it by, and
completes the rack.
With the gilt left from gilding the ball, and a piece of bright ribbon
you can make a
=Paper-Weight=
of six of the large nails. Gild each nail separately, let them dry, and
then tie them securely together with a piece of ribbon.
[Illustration: Key Rack.]
[Illustration: Paper-weight.]
All the articles brought from the attic have now been turned to some
use, but there are many other things to be found there which we
have not space to mention, and which with little trouble can be so
transformed that no one would ever suppose they were taken originally
from a heap of rubbish.
[Illustration]