BUENOS AIRES
It is not strange that South Americans generally, as well as all
Argentines, are proud of Buenos Aires; indeed, as the second Latin city
of the world with a population of twelve hundred thousand, it arouses
feelings of satisfaction among those who have been watching with anxiety
signs of sterility or poverty in the Latin race elsewhere. The political
history of the city has been dealt with in former chapters. Its
effective foundation dates from the year 1580, and within forty years it
was a prosperous town with three thousand inhabitants, and the lower
Plate settlements were separated from the Paraguayan Governorship,
Buenos Aires, of course, being made the capital of the new Province. Up
to the time of the Revolution it continued to make steady progress. In
about 1762 it was described as follows:[75] "The houses of this city,
which were formerly of mud walls, thatched with straw, and very low, are
now much improved, some being of chalk, and others of brick, having one
story besides the ground-floor, and most of them tiled. The cathedral
is a spacious and elegant structure.... The principal square is very
large, and built near a little river; like most towns situated on
rivers, its breadth is not proportioned to its length. The front
answering to the square is the castle where the Governor constantly
resides, and with the other forts has one thousand regular troops. The
number of the houses are about four thousand.[76] There is a small
church at the farther end of the city for the Indians.... The city is
surrounded by a spacious and pleasant country, free from any obstruction
to the right; and from those delightful plains the inhabitants are
furnished with such plenty of cattle, that there is no place in the
universe where meat is better or cheaper. It is also fertile in all
sorts of grain and fruits, and would be still more so if duly
cultivated; but the people are excessive, indolent, and content
themselves with what nature produces without labour."
Another writer (Campbell)[77] of about the same time or a little
earlier, speaks of the town's great trade in wool from Peru, copper
from Coquimbo, and silver from Potosi. As the trade of Paraguay alone
was valued at a million pieces of eight annually, that of Buenos Aires
must have been very considerable. As the mines of Peru showed signs
of exhaustion, more attention was paid to the trade and industries of
the Plate district, and immigrants, attracted by the flourishing
cattle trade, began to turn thither. In 1776 Buenos Aires was
estimated to have twenty thousand inhabitants, but a quarter of a
century of the new and liberal colonial policy doubled that number,
and when the English attacked it they appear to have been impressed by
its size.
But in the nineteenth century, up to very recent times, it had an evil
reputation for dirt and discomfort. A young English officer, who paid
it a hurried visit shortly after the Revolution, remarks:[78] "The
water is extremely impure, scarce, and consequently expensive. The
town is badly paved and dirty, and the houses are the most comfortless
abodes I ever entered. The walls, from the climate, are damp, mouldy,
and discoloured. The floors are badly paved with bricks, which are
generally cracked, and often in holes. The roofs have no ceiling, and
the families have no idea of warming themselves except by huddling
round a fire of charcoal, which is put outside the door until the
carbonic acid gas has rolled away." He also remarked that provisions
were very dear and that, in spite of high wages, labourers would be
worse off than in England. Beef was sold in such a mangled state that
English immigrants often refused to buy it. The lower classes of
English and Irish at Buenos Aires were, he thought, in a very bad
state and addicted to drink. Altogether the town cannot have been a
pleasant place of residence in those days, and it was long before
there was much improvement.
Darwin, however, who visited Buenos Aires not long after Head and
estimated the population at sixty thousand (Montevideo had then only
fifteen thousand inhabitants), describes the outskirts as pretty and
the plan of the city as "one of the most regular in the world."[79]
Probably the laying out was done during the time of prosperity at the
end of the eighteenth century, but the sanitary condition continued
bad, and an Englishman[80] who visited it in 1852, says: "Buenos
Aires! What a misnomer! The first thing that greeted our eyes on
landing was the skinless carcase of a horse lying on the beach on one
side of the landing-place; the second, another ditto on the other
side; and the 'good air' of the town was the stench thereof....
There is something most delicious about the air of this place,
notwithstanding the horrible stenches from the putrid flesh all about
the town." He pays a tribute to the hospitality of the inhabitants,
but the chief amenity of the modern town was absent, for he remarks:
"Urquiza's residence at Palermo is only one room high, and is
surrounded with a lot of porticoes. It was built by the wretch
Rosas, and lies on a flat close to the river, with a grove of
miserable-looking trees between it and the water."
After the Paraguayan war and the commencement of a happier era,
Buenos Aires began to improve rapidly, and building was carried on
extensively. In 1876 the population was estimated at 220,000. But it
was not till the Presidency of Celman that Buenos Aires took upon
itself the form worthy of a civilised capital. His term of office was
undoubtedly demoralising, and it became necessary to depose him by
force, but advantage was taken of the abundance of money to plan and
to build, and though this entailed much jobbery and corruption, great
substantial good remained behind. Splendid public buildings were
erected, a beginning was made of parks, and many of the worst
rookeries were cleared out and replaced by good streets. Above all,
the Avenida de Mayo was made. These architectural improvements, as is
always the case, were most beneficial to public order and safety, for
narrow streets and decayed houses are nurseries of crime. In certain
places, now safe and pleasant, murders were frequent a generation ago,
and respectable citizens never passed through them after nightfall.
The Madero Port was completed, and gradually the miseries of landing,
upon which matter earlier visitors are right voluble, were removed,
and Buenos Aires began to rank as one of the world's pleasure cities.
Haussmann, like Celman, does not go down to posterity with an
unspotted reputation, but few men in the nineteenth century have had
more influence upon the Latin race, for every builder in South
America, at least, has his head full of the Parisian boulevards, and
every new plan or renovation is on that model.
[Illustration: PLAZA DE MAYO, BUENOS AIRES.]
The city of Buenos Aires is situated on the right bank of the estuary
of La Plata in 34° 39´ S. lat. and 58° 18´ W. long. The river is here
of great width and the opposite bank is never visible, but though La
Plata and the Parana are a magnificent waterway, the harbour has never
been very satisfactory, and it is difficult to find channels for
vessels drawing 25 feet. The vessels of the Royal Mail Steam Packet
used to land their passengers at La Plata, while to this day those of
the Pacific Mail Steam Navigation Company only touch at Montevideo and
send on their passengers to Buenos Aires by a smaller vessel. The
splendid docks and basins, which were completed in 1900, are said to
have accommodation for 20,000,000 tons of shipping. In the year 1908
2,027 ocean-going vessels entered the port with an aggregate tonnage
of 4,760,316 tons. The approach by sea is by no means prepossessing,
for the bank of La Plata is flat and muddy; and indeed the natural
scenery round about, with the exception of the ocean-like river, is of
the tamest possible description, nor does the land rise sufficiently
high from the river to show off the size and splendour of the city to
any advantage. Its greatness and magnificence only appear to the
traveller when he plunges into the network of the streets. As is
generally the case in South America, visitors have little trouble with
the customs, for the officials, on receiving an assurance that
the articles are "personal baggage," are satisfied with a hasty
inspection. But it could be wished that there were better arrangements
for landing luggage. Obliging carriers take it with specious promises.
The traveller drives to the hotel, the day wears on, but no luggage
arrives. Next day he drives to the office, where the carrier very
coolly charges extra for a night's storage, and orders the traveller
to remove the luggage at his own expense. An agent who arranged to
deliver baggage within an hour at a small fixed charge, as is done in
the ports of the backward East, would do an enormous business. All
books discuss hotels and the other items in the travellers' directory
at considerable length. As regards hotels, the usual verdict is
unfavourable. They certainly are not cheap, and the bedrooms are
usually small and ill-furnished, but some hotels have a very fair
cuisine and adequate public rooms. Generally speaking, there is the
prevailing characteristic absence of the small comforts which cost so
little except trouble, and it may be noted that such tolerable hotels
as exist are kept by English, French, Italians, Spaniards, rarely by
the native-born. Compared with the hotels of Brazil or Chile, they are
very good; compared with those of European provincial towns they are
very indifferent. However, in Buenos Aires the visitor can sleep at
night without being kept awake by the pangs of hunger or the attacks
of insects, and this is a happy condition not to be encountered in all
South American hotels.
[Illustration: PALERMO PARK, BUENOS AIRES.]
It is not easy to make the reader realise foreign scenes, even when
small towns or glimpses of natural beauty are attempted, and it is
probably impossible to give any satisfactory description of a vast
city, for the great towns and their crowds have a peculiar spirit and
their own harmony of noises which render photographs or lists of
streets and buildings inadequate and misleading. Probably few cities
are more difficult to describe than Buenos Aires. Its streets are
quite as narrow as those of Italian towns, but every one is full of
noise and bustle. This absence of wide streets, squares, boulevards,
and parks greatly detracts from its magnificence; the wood can
never be seen for the trees. As is the case with practically all
Spanish-American towns, the streets are perfectly straight and
intersect one another at right angles, so that it is very easy to find
one's way about, for if a pedestrian desires a cross street, say to
the north, he has only to march northwards up any given street and he
must eventually reach his designation. The people regret the cramped
proportions of the town, and, in the days of the great boom, they cut
the handsome Avenida de Mayo through the congested streets, and its
fine effect shows what a sumptuous city Buenos Aires would be if the
process were extended. But that any more avenues of this kind will be
made is very unlikely, for the expense would be prohibitive. Not only is
land of immense value, but costly buildings have been erected all along
the narrow streets, and the loss entailed by their demolition would be
immense. It may be added that during a period of inflation the wisest
policy is to spend all available money in bricks and mortar, streets and
squares, for when the bubble bursts the buildings remain. Bombay is
an excellent instance, as also is Buenos Aires.
It is true that Rio de Janeiro has during the last few years cleared out
many acres of narrow streets and rebuilt itself in brave fashion, but
the old edifices demolished were insignificant in value compared with
those of the great Argentine capital. The Avenida de Mayo is inferior to
the Avenida Central of Rio in length and splendour of appearance, as
Buenos Aires must always be inferior to the Brazilian capital in beauty,
but this disadvantage is far more than counterbalanced by the prosperity
and enterprise of the inhabitants who in these respects leave their
neighbours far behind.
Every one admires the buildings of Buenos Aires. The Jockey Club is
probably unsurpassed by any Club building in the world, and the Bolsa,
or Exchange, is extremely stately. Unfortunately the Congress Hall is
built in a poor style and has come in for general condemnation, while
the Cathedral is an unimposing brick-and-plaster structure. It has,
however, a rich portico with twelve Corinthian pillars, and the work
surpasses the material, but South America is not a place for the
lovers of church architecture. The shops are large and full of
valuable goods tastefully arranged, but Buenos Aires cannot be
recommended as a place for making purchases, owing to the abnormal
dearness of all articles. But the streets and shoppers present a fine
spectacle; the architecture of the buildings is sumptuous and the
pavements are full of life; there are long rows of splendid equipages,
and beautiful women, daintily attired and bejewelled, flit from shop
to shop as in all other capitals, and the pride of wealth and luxury
flaunts itself as bravely as in Paris or London. The keen, stimulating
air gives vivacity to the inhabitants, the streets hum with gay
chatter, and the unbroken prosperity of many years helps to maintain
the general good-humour. The only drawback to the pleasure-seeker is
the narrowness of the streets. He is perpetually jostled off the tiny
pavements and has perpetually to spring back to the kerb-stone to save
himself from annihilation by the rapid tramcar. These cars are cheap
and also much faster and better than anything of the kind in London.
It is thus tolerably easy to get about Buenos Aires under ordinary
circumstances, although the suburban railway service is not very good
and the cabs are indifferent. The trams penetrate almost everywhere,
but probably a system of tubes would be convenient. It is true that
cabmen and tram-men have a disconcerting habit of going on strike; nor
does their violence appear to surprise any one, the newspapers
merely remarking that it is fortunate for tram proprietors that the
Argentines are a peaceful and orderly people, unlike the Brazilians
who on such occasions burn the cars.
[Illustration: LA CROZE TRAMWAY, NEAR BUENOS AIRES.]
The town was planned with narrow streets to afford shade and mitigate
the great heat of summer, but now that its size is so great it
may be doubted whether the disadvantages arising from closeness and
congestion are not more serious than any that might be caused by the
rays of the sun. Indeed, Buenos Aires is, perhaps, too completely a
town to charm for long together; it is almost destitute even of
squares, and though towards the outskirts some of the streets are more
spacious, the general impression is that of being cramped. The
Avenida de Mayo runs from north to south, and is met by the best
streets which come from the river and railway line and which, as they
approach the Avenida, become gradually more fashionable. Among the
best are the Calle Maipu, Florida, Cangallo, San Martin, and Bartoleme
Mitre. At Palermo there are attractive gardens and recreation grounds,
and attempts are being made to establish parks, but as yet they
have not borne fruit. Belgrano is an extremely untidy suburb. The
multiplication of the amenities of Buenos Aires can only be effected
by creating pleasant suburbs, and to effect a reasonable plan
for surrounding it with garden-like tracts and giving them good
communications would, however expensive, be the greatest benefit that
could be conferred upon it.
The people, however, appear well contented with Buenos Aires as it is,
and it undoubtedly possesses the usual attractions of great cities.
The opera and theatres are said to be very good, and the Argentines
are keen musical critics. All kinds of variety entertainments are very
popular, but it cannot be said that the ordinary music-halls have much
merit, and some of them, if translated to London, would probably have
trouble with the County Council. Cafés and restaurants are extremely
numerous in Buenos Aires, but, except in the great avenue, the
open-air cafés, in which the Latin race delight, are practically
unknown. This is explained by the obvious impossibility of finding
room for such an establishment in the average street of the capital.
Although the Spaniard is not by any means a gourmand, the restaurants
are tolerable as a result of the cosmopolitan society; and English,
French, Germans, and Italians can get their meals in the styles to
which they are accustomed. Indeed, the traveller can, at a price,
supply himself with almost everything which he could obtain in London,
but he will be wise to bring everything with him. Cigars are not quite
as dear as on the Pacific coast, but they are not cheap; the best
value is a Brazilian weed, called a Santos, which is considered a
marvel of cheapness. It costs about fourpence, which is more than a
cigar of similar quality would command in England. But it is hardly
necessary to go minutely into these questions of buying and selling,
eating and drinking. Any one who has visited any large town in a new
country will have a fairly accurate idea of how Buenos Aires treats
the traveller. Such towns are bright, interesting, sociable, and
expensive; they have many luxuries but few comforts.
The most comfortable thing about Buenos Aires is its hospitality, for
both English and Argentines give a cordial welcome to visitors who
come in increasing numbers, particularly in February and March. Club
life is, as might be supposed, a distinctive feature, and the Jockey
Club (entrance £300) is a triumph of luxury. Most of the members are
native-born. The two Clubs most favoured by our countrymen are
close together in Calle Bartolome Mitre, and are named the Club de
Residentes Estranjeros and the English Club respectively. The English
Club has a very agreeable suite of rooms and welcomes strangers as
temporary members. There is also in the Calle Cangallo a very useful
association called the English Literary Society, where a great variety
of newspapers can be seen, and the library contains over five thousand
books. As there are very many English residents in Buenos Aires,
sport and games are prominent in the social life, and to these the
Argentines have taken kindly, and cricket, football, lawn tennis, and
polo occupy almost as prominent a place as they do in London and its
neighbourhood. This is one great advantage of sport, that it enables
nations of highly varied habits to mix pleasantly and profitably.
These outdoor recreations are valuable on that account, and add
greatly to the attractions of Buenos Aires. Polo is very popular and
Buenos Aires has its own Hurlingham, and good horseflesh can be
obtained more cheaply than at home.
[Illustration:
_Photo_] [_C. Hailey, Newmarket._
IMPORTED STALLION, "CYLLENE," WINNER OF THE ASCOT CUP.]
Perhaps the favourite amusement of the capital is racing, for it
appeals both to the love of horses and the love of gambling, which
are two of the strongest predilections of the Argentines. Some men who
have acquired large fortunes find a difficulty in disposing of them
except by play and betting, thus following the example of the ancient
_conquistadores_ who won gold lightly and diced it away as readily.
There are two race-courses, one at Belgrano and one at Palermo, but
the impression they produce is disappointing, chiefly owing to the
Spanish lack of comfort. The actual racing, though marred by inferior
jockeyship, is extremely good, for the horses are of high quality and
the runners are plentiful. But it would be well if the Jockey Club
deputed a small committee to visit England and France with a view to
improving the accommodation. Everything at Belgrano is of the most
uncomfortable description and the people are cramped in crowded
pens. The Palermo course, when completed, will be a considerable
improvement, and it is on an ambitious scale, but it is so large
that it entails an unnecessary amount of walking about, and the
arrangements for paying in and drawing out money and also for
refreshments are most inconvenient. Again, there is practically no
paddock; the horses are hurried to the post, where they await the time
fixed for the start, and consequently it is very difficult to get a
view of them. As regards speculation, the Indian plan is the best
which allows the bookmakers and the totalisator to work side by side,
for a machine is an inadequate substitute for the human element.
Buenos Aires has followed the example of France, which has discarded
bookmakers, but has not imitated the excellence of her machine
betting, for the totalisators at Palermo are so far from the stands
and are so badly served that one might imagine them to have been
constructed by the Anti-Gambling League. However, the racing is the
thing, and that is, as said before, very good. The rich men of
Argentina take great delight in blood-stock and many of the racers are
by high-class English sires. This pursuit is often a source to them of
pleasure as well as of profit. King Edward's triple crown hero,
Diamond Jubilee, was bought for Argentina at a cost of £30,000 and the
first season's produce of this stallion sold for a somewhat larger
sum. Flotsam and many other well-known animals stood for several years
in Argentina.
[Illustration:
_Photo_] [_C. Hailey, Newmarket._
IMPORTED STALLION, "DIAMOND JUBILEE," LATE PROPERTY OF H.M. KING
EDWARD VII.]
Such a rough sketch of the outward life of Buenos Aires as the above
necessarily gives a very inadequate image of the great and busy city,
for what is received on hearsay impresses the mind more faintly than
what has been seen with the eyes. It is a city of an unusual type, for
it is very Spanish, but it is entirely without Spanish sleepiness;
indeed, bustle and stir are perhaps its chief characteristics. There
is great wealth and the love of display is also great, and doubtless,
like Paris, it exercises a dangerous fascination on the people at
large, who are apt to think that there is no profit or pleasure
anywhere except at Buenos Aires. It occupies in Argentina a more
important position than does Paris in France, and probably the
development of Rosario and Bahia Blanca will have a good effect in
modifying its pretensions. It is a very magnificent city.
FOOTNOTES:
[75] "An Account," &c., pp. 328-9.
[76] De Bougainville, who visited it in 1767, says the town had twenty
thousand inhabitants of all colours. He comments upon the lowness of
the houses and says that the houses usually had spacious gardens--a
great contrast to the modern city. ("Voyage autour du Monde," p. 33.)
[77] "History of Spanish America," p. 274.
[78] Head, "Rough Notes," p. 30.
[79] "The Voyage of the _Beagle_," chap. vi.
[80] Mansfield, "Paraguay, Brazil, and the Plate," pp. 128, 136,
138.