We started the teams from Townsville about the end of July, 1878, and
passed a gang engaged on construction of the railway line to Charters
Towers at Double Barrel Creek, now known as Toonpan, 17 miles from
Townsville.
Our destination was Collingwood, more widely known as the Conn
Waterhole, where the Government Surveyor had laid out a township
situated about 40 miles west of Winton.
Having heard that the business men of Charters Towers were offering a
reward of £50 to any carrier who would open a more direct road to the
western country, and that a road party had left to mark the line, we
decided to try and win it. On our arrival at the Towers, we interviewed
the merchants, who disclaimed any knowledge of a reward having been
offered for opening the road. We decided to follow the road party, who
had marked a line to junction with the old Flinders road. On the journey
I found a tree on which I had cut my initials when travelling to the
Gulf with sheep, some twelve years before. Owing to double banking the
teams through the heavy sand bordering "Billy Webb's Lake," we had to
camp without water that night. There was green picking on the water-less
lake for the bullocks, but they had to be watched. The road party had
left an empty cask where they had camped on the lake, and one of the
bullocks, a poly, smelling water in the bottom of the cask, forced his
head into it. On lifting his head, the cask came with it. The bullock,
being unable to see, made for his mates with their bells on, and then a
general stampede of the bullocks took place in all directions. Finally,
a bell bullock made for the timber, the poly followed him, and running
against a tree, smashed the cask. Thus ended an amusing incident, with
no damage done except to the cask.
The road party left the old road and made a ploughed furrow across the
downs to Rockwood Creek, which we followed, and camped the night there.
Fitzmaurice, whilst riding after the bullocks, met Mr. Bergin, the man
in charge of the party, who told Fitzmaurice that he was instructed to
mark a direct line to Collingwood, on the Western River, and that he
intended going up Thornhill Creek, cross the divide between the
Landsborough and Diamantina Rivers, and then run down Jessamine and
Mill's Creeks to the Western River, and thence to Collingwood.
We took the road up Rockwood Creek to its head, and crossed the same
divide as the road party were going, only farther north, striking the
head of Manuka Creek, which we ran down to its junction with Mill's
Creek. This we followed to the present site of Winton, which we reached
at the end of October. The new road opened by the road party had so many
patches of heavy sand on it, and long stages for water, that it was
never used by carriers, and some years later Ramsay Bros. obtained
permission from the Government to close that portion of it running down
Jessamine Creek, on the Oondooroo run.
A few years later the Government made tanks on the road between
Hughenden and Winton, after which all traffic from Townsville to Winton
and the west generally, came that way.
Mr. Tom Lynett, whom I had previously known on the Palmer, and who was
backed by Burns, Philp and Co. to start a store, had left Townsville for
the same destination as ourselves, if the locality was found to be
suitable.
He did not overtake his teams until they reached the Twelve-mile Hole,
on the Elderslie road, where he stopped them while he rode on to
Collingwood, the newly-surveyed township, to inspect.
He concluded the country was subject to floods, so he turned his teams
back, and decided to build on the spot on which we found him camped when
we arrived with our teams.
We also met a man named Bob Allen, who had been located in the
neighbourhood for two years or more. Allen was an ex-sergeant of police,
who left Aramac about 1875 to start a store and public house on what is
known as the Pelican Hole, one mile west of the site of Winton. Very
heavy rains fell in 1876, and we were told he was compelled by floods to
remain two days on the wall-plate of his building.
When the water allowed him, he shifted what was left of his hotel and
store, and re-erected them on the present site of the Queensland
National Bank, Winton.
Allen, Lynett, Fitzmaurice and I discussed the removal of the building,
and forming the town back on higher ground.
We offered to do the work without cost, but Allen and Lynett decided to
remain where they were. We had to accept the position, and agreed to
build in line with the others.
This formed the base upon which Mr. Surveyor Jopp laid out the township
afterwards.
After putting up a skeleton shed covered by tarpaulins, I obtained from
Ayrshire Downs two loads of wool for our teams, returning to Townsville.
In the meantime, Fitzmaurice had disposed of £600 worth of goods. I was
occupied a whole day pasting the pieces of the torn and damaged cheques.
I then started for the nearest bank, which was at Aramac, 250 miles
away.
A drought being on, I had many difficulties in getting through.
There were only 5,000 sheep on Vindex, and these were camped on a
water-hole which had been filled by a stray thunderstorm. The remainder
of the sheep from the run were travelling for grass and water on the
coast near Townsville. As a compliment, I was allowed to replenish my
water-bag, and to obtain one drink for each of my two horses.
My next camp was off the road on East Darr Station, where a mob of
kanakas were cutting down scrub for fencing.
When I reached Muttaburra, I found the hotel to be a grass hut. It
proved to be a very rowdy place, so I decided to camp on the ridge
outside the town without food, and have my breakfast when passing
through in the morning.
I carried £600 worth of cheques in my trousers pocket. This I thought
was the safest place.
I was very pleased when at last I reached Aramac, after bank hours, and
handed the money to Mr. Fulton, the manager of the Queensland National
Bank, and the next morning found only £30 of them dishonoured.
Immediately on my return to Winton, I started for Townsville to load my
two teams with timber and iron to build an hotel. I travelled with
Fitzmaurice's teams to assist them over a dry stage to Rockwood.
We camped close to Oondooroo Station and when bringing the bullocks in
to be yoked in the morning, one of them jumped and tossed his head in
the air, and I then saw a tiger snake disappear in a hole near by. The
bullocks were yoked up, and after going a short distance the off-side
poler of one of the teams dropped dead. On examination, we found two
small punctures in the nose. It was the bullock I had seen jump and
throw up its head.
When we reached Manuka Station there was only one water-hole near the
road. The owner of the station was preserving this for his stock. The
distance to the next water was 20 miles, so it was absolutely necessary
we should obtain a drink for the bullocks before we tackled the long
stage.
I interviewed Mr. Anderson, the owner, and having explained our
position, asked to be allowed a drink for the bullocks. He flatly
declined to allow this.
After about an hour's pleading, he gave his consent subject to the
proviso that the bullocks should be watered in batches of ten at a time,
and so preserve the hole from being puddled. We watered the stock in the
evening, and by travelling all night, managed to reach Rockwood without
mishap. Here I was told I would get water for myself and horses 25 miles
further on.
The next water after that would be 55 miles to Hughenden, on the
Flinders River.
I left the teams to make a long road round Tower Hill, which was a
good-watered route. When I reached the 25-mile, where I was told I would
get water, I found the ground just glassy, the water having evaporated
in the December sun.
Knowing the distance I would have to go without water, I decided to
hobble the horses out on dry grass, and dodged the sun round a tree
until the afternoon, when I saddled up. In about ten miles I passed
Cameron Downs Station, which was deserted. I reached the water about
eight the following morning, very thankful to have come through the 80
miles safely. It had been a glorious moonlight, by which I could see the
tracks of numerous snakes on the road. I felt that if my horses were
bitten it would mean a perish for me.
I remained at the water until about 5 p.m., when I rode into Hughenden
township, which was formed on the spot where I had camped with the sheep
some twelve years before. I put up at Magnay's hotel, and was glad to
have a square meal for dinner.
In the morning I resumed my journey, and having previously travelled the
track frequently, went miles off it to obtain better feed for the horses
to camp.
I overtook my own teams between Dalrymple and Townsville, and drove one
of them to the camp outside the latter town.
After engaging another driver, the timber, iron, a billiard table and
some stores were duly loaded and despatched. I remained to sign the four
months' promissory notes for these and the goods previously referred to,
and to give the teams time to negotiate the 30 miles to Thornton's Gap,
as the crossing of the coast range was called at this place. At the foot
of the Gap I joined them, and assisted in getting them to the top. I
left the teams here and rode on to Winton.
On my arrival, I found that Fitzmaurice had sold out of most of the
supplies except the grog, which he was keeping for the hotel. He then
started on horseback for Townsville to give delivery of the wool, and
load up his three teams with stores, etc.; also more timber and iron to
build the store. He would also bring his wife and child with him.
At this time Winton was the rendezvous of some of the worst characters
of the west; fights were frequent on the then unformed streets.
The rowdies threatened to take the grog in the store, and as there were
no police nearer than Aramac, I deemed it best to dispose of all the
liquor to Allen, the local publican, who jumped at the chance to obtain
a supply.
A few residents formed themselves into a vigilance committee.
The late Mr. J. A. Macartney passed through to visit his property,
Bladensburg Station, and seeing how things were, wrote to the Home
Secretary asking for police protection.
My teams had now arrived with the building material, and carpenters were
put on to erect the hotel. This was not finished until the end of 1879,
when it was opened under the name of North Gregory Hotel.
Great difficulty was experienced with the floors, there being no timber
for them. We puddled the mud and got the black gins to tramp it down,
adding a picaninny to their backs to increase their weight.
About July of this year, Fitzmaurice returned from Townsville with three
horses and a light dray on which he had brought his wife and little
girl.
Taking a plan of the hotel with me, I started for Aramac to interview
Mr. Sword, the P.M. (afterwards member of the Land Court), to obtain a
provisional license. This he refused to grant until the building was
erected.
When I returned Winton was entirely out of liquor, and Allen did a great
business in selling bottles of painkiller as a substitute. It was
laughable to see men take a bottle out of their pocket, saying, "Have a
nip, mate, it's only five shillings a bottle?"
About March, 1880, the Western River was in high flood, and ran miles
wide.
Sub-Inspector Kaye, of the native police, and Mr. John Haines, the
manager of Elderslie Station, were in town, and wished to get to the
station 40 miles down the river.
We put our carpenter on to make a boat, which carried them and the
troopers safely to their destination.
Shortly afterwards Sub-Inspector Fred Murray came out from Blackall,
bringing with him Sergeant Feltham, who formed the police station in a
small building which I rented to them.
There was only a log to which offenders were chained. One day Feltham
went down to the store, leaving a prisoner chained up. Shortly
afterwards he was surprised when he saw his prisoner (who was a very
powerful man) marching into the public house carrying the log on his
shoulder, and call for drinks. It took three men to get him back to the
lock-up.
Fitzmaurice's teams arriving, we were enabled to complete the store
building, stock it, and the hotel, and resume business, which had been
suspended owing to running out of goods, etc. My teams had gone down
empty, and were now on their way up with more loading.
The original name for the town--now known as Winton--was Pelican
Water-holes. Bob Allen, the first resident, whom I have mentioned, acted
as post-master. The mail service was a fortnightly one, going west to
Wokingham Creek, thence _via_ Sesbania to Hughenden. There was no date
stamp supplied to the office, but by writing "Pelican Water-holes" and
the date across the stamps, the post mark was made, and the stamps
cancelled. This was found to be very slow and unsatisfactory.
Allen was asked to propose a name, and he suggested that the P.O. should
be called "Winton." This is the name of a suburb of Bournemouth,
Hampshire, England, and Allen's native place.
We had kept one of Fitzmaurice's teams to haul in firewood, and posts to
fence a paddock on Vindex run, the lessees, Messrs. Scott and Gordon,
having given us permission to do so.
The manager of Elderslie also gave us permission to fence in a piece of
ground at the Pelican Waterhole for a vegetable garden.
The team obtained employment at Bladensburg, where Mr. Macartney was
building a stockyard. As I felt clerical work to be hard on me, I would
take an occasional trip with the bullocks to relieve the drudgery.
During this year the member for Gregory, Mr. Thomas McWhannell, passed
through Winton, and opportunity was taken to bring under his notice the
necessity for a water supply for the town. The disabilities we suffered
under were pointed out. We had to procure water from a hole in Mistake
Creek, two and a-half miles away, the water of which was frequently
polluted by numbers of dead cattle. By his efforts a sum was passed by
Parliament for water conservation.
[Illustration: WESTERN RIVER IN FLOOD. LOOKING SOUTH FROM RAILWAY
STATION.]
The Oondooroo bullock team had come in for supplies, but the driver
started drinking, and was unable to take the team home.
Not having forgotten my old avocation, I took his place, and thereby
began a close friendship with the Schollick Brothers, who were
completely out of rations when I arrived.
During this year the town and district were invaded by a plague of rats,
travelling from north-east to south-west in hundreds of thousands.
The vermin would eat the buttons off one's coat when camping out. Cats
and dogs were surfeited from killing them. I told the Chinaman cook of
the hotel that I would give him a pound of tobacco if he caught a
hundred rats. That night, as I was sleeping on a stretcher at the back
of the store, I was several times awakened by what seemed to be a
stamping of feet. In the morning I found that the Chinaman had obtained
an ironbark wooden shutter, and rigged up a figure four trap with bait
underneath, and by this means had obtained a wheelbarrow full of dead
rats.
These rats had bushy tails, and apparently lived on the roots of grass.
These devastated the country through which they passed. It was unknown
whence they came from or whither they went.
The rats were followed by a plague of dead cats in the water-holes. The
rats had gone and the cats having had plenty, did not follow, but died
in the water-holes.
Our team driver was James Gordon, one of two brothers who owned the
selection which later became famous as Mount Morgan. We sold this team
to Warenda Station, and James Gordon went with it.
During this year (1879), Vindex Station was purchased from Scott and
Gordon by Chirnside, Riley and Co., of Victoria, who, like other
investors, spent money lavishly to develop the country.
The manager was Mr. J. B. Riley. This gentleman died in 1889, but is
still affectionately remembered throughout the district.
To those who knew him, his death was felt as that of a staunch personal
friend. By none was his death more regretted than by those who worked
for him, either as permanent or casual employees, and by whom a monument
to his memory has been erected on Vindex.
Outside the property he controlled, J. B. had three personal hobbies, a
good horse, the Winton Divisional Board, and the local Hospital. Of
these three hobbies his principal one was the hospital and its sick
occupants. On his death it was felt that the most appropriate monument
to him would be a new ward for eye complaints to be added to the
hospital.
This was generously subscribed to by all classes, and the J. B. Riley
ward of the institution served to remind us of one who, by his charity,
goodness and generosity, was a good man, but whose shyness did not allow
of this being known. His brother, Mr. F. W. Riley, and Mr. R. L.
Chirnside, who were closely associated with him, carried on his good
work, and became as deservedly popular.
Throughout this year (1880) the town and district had made progress, and
new people were coming in.
We were now doing a good business in both store and hotel, consequently
we had to depend on drivers for our teams without supervision.
It was decided that I should follow the teams to Townsville to in some
way dispose of them, and also to bring up a man to assist Fitzmaurice in
the hotel.
When I reached Dalrymple I learnt that one of Fitzmaurice's teams had
been swept over the rocks while crossing the Burdekin River, and that
eight of the bullocks were drowned. It appeared that the river, though
not a-swim, was running strong at the crossing.
The first team crossed safely, but on the other reaching the strong
water, the driver of the team rode around to the off-side to keep the
bullocks up the stream. His efforts were unavailing. With his horse he
was carried into deep water, from which they were rescued in an
exhausted condition. Not so with the team.
The bullocks were all drowned, and the waggon wrecked on the rocks.
Fortunately, being empty, only eight bullocks were yoked to the waggon,
but they were the pick of the team. This accident strengthened our
desire to dispose of the teams.
I sold Fitzmaurice's remaining team at Townsville at a satisfactory
figure, and my own two teams were sold on their arrival to one of the
drivers on terms.
The agreement was that we should provide him with loading from
Townsville to Winton at the rate of £30 per ton, until he had paid the
purchase money of it. This he did in a few trips.
These teams could not carry the whole of the goods I had purchased, so I
left an order with Clifton and Aplin to forward the remainder by
carriers as soon as they could despatch them. I engaged a suitable man
to assist Fitzmaurice, and we left with saddle and pack horses for
Winton, taking the shorter road _via_ Charters Towers.
This we left at Rockwood, to make a still shorter route across the Downs
from Culloden Station, over which the road party had ploughed a furrow
across to cut the head of Jessamine Creek, at the back of Oondooroo
Station.
In crossing the divide between the Landsborough and Diamantina waters,
we rode over virgin country which was infested with bush rats, and
numbers of tiger snakes gorged after eating them.
In one place, which was 25 miles from water, the snakes were so numerous
that we had a difficulty in getting our pack horses safely through them.
Yet it is argued that snakes are never very far from water.
In 1880, Cobb and Co. bought up a number of mail services throughout
Western Queensland, and the general regularity and convenience of their
coaches served to open up the country. Cobb and Co. carried out its
contracts under great difficulty in times of flood, but more frequently
of droughts, and their record is one of which the company and its
servants might well be proud. Their coaches are now practically of the
past, but the time was when Cobb and Co.'s name was a synonym for
efficiency and, when humanly possible, for punctuality. There were many
less enjoyable ways of realising life than by, say, to be leaving
Barcaldine for Aramac in the dark of an early morning on the box seat of
a coach behind a spanking team of greys, driven by a master hand with
the whip and ribbons. And then if one stayed the night at a stage, where
two or more drivers met, and exchanged experiences of the trip, their
horses, but more than all of their passengers, what an interesting time
might be passed.
It was remarkable how observant of passengers the drivers would be,
while the passenger all the time laboured under the impression that the
driver's time was taken up with his horses.
The idiosyncracies of passengers would be discussed by drivers, and it
more than once happened I have heard of the peculiarities of certain
passengers at places hundreds of miles from where they came under
observation.
Nearing Charleville, on a road I had not travelled before, I had a trip
I had made from Normanton towards Croydon related to me by a driver whom
I had never seen until then.
I learnt he was told the story by the driver of the Blackall coach, who
had heard it in Barcaldine from Tommy Thompson, who was told it in
Winton by Tommy Cahill, who received it at Hughenden from Martin
Warneminde.
I was quite satisfied and did not inquire further.
Judging by the way they fulfilled the requests at different mail stages,
these men must have been gifted with wonderful memories. At one stage a
driver might be asked to call at Smith's, the storekeeper, and "tell him
to give you a couple of pounds of tea and some potatoes for me;" at
another to get a pair of boots, size three, for the missus; at Jones',
to get a bottle of eye lotion, and so on. These orders would be
faithfully given on arrival, and the goods obtained before the driver
would attend to his own comfort or pleasure.
From personal knowledge of Cobb and Co.'s men, in fact to western
mailmen generally, one might lift one's hat with respect as a tribute to
honesty and faithfulness for work well done and duty honourably carried
out.