In the evening the boats went to the rock, and brought the joiners and

smiths, and their sickly companions, on board of the tender. These also

brought with them two baskets full of fish, which they had caught at

high-water from the beacon, reporting, at the same time, to their

comrades, that the fish were swimming in such numbers over the rock at

high-water that it was completely hid from their sight, and nothing seen

but the movement of thousands of fish. They were almost exclusively of

the species called the podlie, or young coal-fish. This discovery, made

for the first time to-day by the workmen, was considered fortunate, as

an additional circumstance likely to produce an inclination among the

artificers to take up their residence in the beacon, when it came to be

fitted up as a barrack.

Tuesday, 7th June.

At three o'clock in the morning the ship's bell was rung as the signal

for landing at the rock. When the landing was to be made before

breakfast, it was customary to give each of the artificers and seamen a

dram and a biscuit, and coffee was prepared by the steward for the

cabins. Exactly at four o'clock the whole party landed from three boats,

including one of those belonging to the floating light, with a part of

that ship's crew, which always attended the works in moderate weather.

The landing-master's boat, called the _Seaman_, but more commonly called

the _Lifeboat_, took the lead. The next boat, called the _Mason_, was

generally steered by the writer; while the floating light's boat,

_Pharos_, was under the management of the boatswain of that ship.

Having now so considerable a party of workmen and sailors on the rock,

it may be proper here to notice how their labours were directed.

Preparations having been made last month for the erection of a second

forge upon the beacon, the smiths commenced their operations both upon

the lower and higher platforms. They were employed in sharpening the

picks and irons for the masons, and making bats and other apparatus of

various descriptions connected with the fitting of the railways. The

landing-master's crew were occupied in assisting the millwrights in

laying the railways to hand. Sailors, of all other descriptions of men,

are the most accommodating in the use of their hands. They worked freely

with the boring-irons, and assisted in all the operations of the

railways, acting by turns as boatmen, seamen, and artificers. We had no

such character on the Bell Rock as the common labourer. All the

operations of this department were cheerfully undertaken by the seamen,

who, both on the rock and on shipboard, were the inseparable companions

of every work connected with the erection of the Bell Rock Lighthouse.

It will naturally be supposed that about twenty-five masons, occupied

with their picks in executing and preparing the foundation of the

lighthouse, in the course of a tide of about three hours, would make a

considerable impression upon an area even of forty-two feet in diameter.

But in proportion as the foundation was deepened, the rock was found to

be much more hard and difficult to work, while the baling and pumping of

water became much more troublesome. A joiner was kept almost constantly

employed in fitting the picks to their handles, which, as well as the

points to the irons, were very frequently broken.

The Bell Rock this morning presented by far the most busy and active

appearance it had exhibited since the erection of the principal beams of

the beacon. The surface of the rock was crowded with men, the two forges

flaming, the one above the other, upon the beacon, while the anvils

thundered with the rebounding noise of their wooden supports, and formed

a curious contrast with the occasional clamour of the surges. The wind

was westerly, and the weather being extremely agreeable, so soon after

breakfast as the tide had sufficiently overflowed the rock to float the

boats over it, the smiths, with a number of the artificers, returned to

the beacon, carrying their fishing-tackle along with them. In the course

of the forenoon, the beacon exhibited a still more extraordinary

appearance than the rock had done in the morning. The sea being smooth,

it seemed to be afloat upon the water, with a number of men supporting

themselves in all the variety of attitude and position: while, from the

upper part of this wooden house, the volumes of smoke which ascended

from the forges gave the whole a very curious and fanciful appearance.

In the course of this tide it was observed that a heavy swell was

setting in from the eastward, and the appearance of the sky indicated a

change of weather, while the wind was shifting about. The barometer also

had fallen from 30 in. to 29.6. It was, therefore, judged prudent to

shift the vessel to the S.W. or more distant buoy. Her bowsprit was also

soon afterwards taken in, the topmasts struck, and everything made

_snug_, as seamen term it, for a gale. During the course of the night

the wind increased and shifted to the eastward, when the vessel rolled

very hard, and the sea often broke over her bows with great force.

Wednesday, 8th June.

Although the motion of the tender was much less than that of the

floating light--at least, in regard to the rolling motion--yet she

_sended_, or pitched, much. Being also of a very handsome build, and

what seamen term very _clean aft_, the sea often struck her counter with

such force that the writer, who possessed the aftermost cabin, being

unaccustomed to this new vessel, could not divest himself of uneasiness;

for when her stern fell into the sea, it struck with so much violence as

to be more like the resistance of a rock than the sea. The water, at

the same time, often rushed with great force up the rudder-case, and,

forcing up the valve of the water-closet, the floor of his cabin was at

times laid under water. The gale continued to increase, and the vessel

rolled and pitched in such a manner that the hawser by which the tender

was made fast to the buoy snapped, and she went adrift. In the act of

swinging round to the wind she shipped a very heavy sea, which greatly

alarmed the artificers, who imagined that we had got upon the rock; but

this, from the direction of the wind, was impossible. The writer,

however, sprung upon deck, where he found the sailors busily employed in

rigging out the bowsprit and in setting sail. From the easterly

direction of the wind, it was considered most advisable to steer for the

Firth of Forth, and there wait a change of weather. At two p.m. we

accordingly passed the Isle of May, at six anchored in Leith Roads, and

at eight the writer landed, when he came in upon his friends, who were

not a little surprised at his unexpected appearance, which gave an

instantaneous alarm for the safety of things at the Bell Rock.

Thursday, 9th June.

The wind still continued to blow very hard at E. by N., and the _Sir

Joseph Banks_ rode heavily, and even drifted with both anchors ahead, in

Leith Roads. The artificers did not attempt to leave the ship last

night; but there being upwards of fifty people on board, and the decks

greatly lumbered with the two large boats, they were in a very crowded

and impatient state on board. But to-day they got ashore, and amused

themselves by walking about the streets of Edinburgh, some in very

humble apparel, from having only the worst of their jackets with them,

which, though quite suitable for their work, were hardly fit for public

inspection, being not only tattered, but greatly stained with the red

colour of the rock.

Friday, 10th June.

To-day the wind was at S.E., with light breezes and foggy weather. At

six a.m. the writer again embarked for the Bell Rock, when the vessel

immediately sailed. At eleven p.m., there being no wind, the

kedge-anchor was _let go_ off Anstruther, one of the numerous towns on

the coast of Fife, where we waited the return of the tide.

Saturday, 11th June.

At six a.m. the _Sir Joseph_ got under weigh, and at eleven was again

made fast to the southern buoy at the Bell Rock. Though it was now late

in the tide, the writer, being anxious to ascertain the state of things

after the gale, landed with the artificers to the number of forty-four.

Everything was found in an entire state; but, as the tide was nearly

gone, only half an hour's work had been got when the site of the

building was overflowed. In the evening the boats again landed at nine,

and, after a good tide's work of three hours with torchlight, the work

was left off at midnight. To the distant shipping the appearance of

things under night on the Bell Rock, when the work was going forward,

must have been very remarkable, especially to those who were strangers

to the operations. Mr. John Reid, principal lightkeeper, who also acted

as master of the floating light during the working months at the rock,

described the appearance of the numerous lights situated so low in the

water, when seen at the distance of two or three miles, as putting him

in mind of Milton's description of the fiends in the lower regions,

adding, "for it seems greatly to surpass Will-o'-the-wisp, or any of

those earthly spectres of which we have so often heard."

Monday 13th June.

From the difficulties attending the landing on the rock, owing to the

breach of sea which had for days past been around it, the artificers

showed some backwardness at getting into the boats this morning; but

after a little explanation this was got over. It was always observable

that for some time after anything like danger had occurred at the rock,

the workmen became much more cautious, and on some occasions their

timidity was rather troublesome. It fortunately happened, however, that

along with the writer's assistants and the sailors there were also some

of the artificers themselves who felt no such scruples, and in this way

these difficulties were the more easily surmounted. In matters where

life is in danger it becomes necessary to treat even unfounded

prejudices with tenderness, as an accident, under certain circumstances,

would not only have been particularly painful to those giving

directions, but have proved highly detrimental to the work, especially

in the early stages of its advancement.

At four o'clock fifty-eight persons landed; but the tides being

extremely languid, the water only left the higher parts of the rock, and

no work could be done at the site of the building. A third forge was,

however, put in operation during a short time, for the greater

conveniency of sharpening the picks and irons, and for purposes

connected with the preparations for fixing the railways on the rock. The

weather towards the evening became thick and foggy, and there was hardly

a breath of wind to ruffle the surface of the water. Had it not,

therefore, been for the noise from the anvils of the smiths who had been

left on the beacon throughout the day, which afforded a guide for the

boats, a landing could not have been attempted this evening, especially

with such a company of artificers. This circumstance confirmed the

writer's opinion with regard to the propriety of connecting large bells

to be rung with machinery in the lighthouse, to be tolled day and night

during the continuance of foggy weather.

Thursday, 23rd June.

The boats landed this evening, when the artificers had again two hours'

work. The weather still continuing very thick and foggy, more

difficulty was experienced in getting on board of the vessels to-night

than had occurred on any previous occasion, owing to a light breeze of

wind which carried the sound of the bell, and the other signals made on

board of the vessels, away from the rock. Having fortunately made out

the position of the sloop _Smeaton_ at the N.E. buoy--to which we were

much assisted by the barking of the ship's dog,--we parted with the

_Smeaton's_ boat, when the boats of the tender took a fresh departure

for that vessel, which lay about half a mile to the south-westward. Yet

such is the very deceiving state of the tides, that, although there was

a small binnacle and compass in the landing-master's boat, we had,

nevertheless, passed the _Sir Joseph_ a good way, when, fortunately, one

of the sailors catched the sound of a blowing-horn. The only firearms on

board were a pair of swivels of one-inch calibre; but it is quite

surprising how much the sound is lost in foggy weather, as the report

was heard but at a very short distance. The sound from the explosion of

gunpowder is so instantaneous that the effect of the small guns was not

so good as either the blowing of a horn or the tolling of a bell, which

afforded a more constant and steady direction for the pilot.

Wednesday, 6th July.

Landed on the rock with the three boats belonging to the tender at five

p.m., and began immediately to bale the water out of the foundation-pit

with a number of buckets, while the pumps were also kept in action with

relays of artificers and seamen. The work commenced upon the higher

parts of the foundation as the water left them, but it was now pretty

generally reduced to a level. About twenty men could be conveniently

employed at each pump, and it is quite astonishing in how short a time

so great a body of water could be drawn off. The water in the

foundation-pit at this time measured about two feet in depth, on an area

of forty-two feet in diameter, and yet it was drawn off in the course of

about half an hour. After this the artificers commenced with their picks

and continued at work for two hours and a half, some of the sailors

being at the same time busily employed in clearing the foundation of

chips and in conveying the irons to and from the smiths on the beacon,

where they were sharped. At eight o'clock the sea broke in upon us and

overflowed the foundation-pit, when the boats returned to the tender.

Thursday, 7th July.

The landing-master's bell rung this morning about four o'clock, and at

half-past five, the foundation being cleared, the work commenced on the

site of the building. But from the moment of landing, the squad of

joiners and millwrights was at work upon the higher parts of the rock in

laying the railways, while the anvils of the smith resounded on the

beacon, and such columns of smoke ascended from the forges that they

were often mistaken by strangers at a distance for a ship on fire. After

continuing three hours at work the foundation of the building was again

overflowed, and the boats returned to the ship at half-past eight

o'clock. The masons and pickmen had, at this period, a pretty long day

on board of the tender, but the smiths and joiners were kept constantly

at work upon the beacon, the stability and great conveniency of which

had now been so fully shown that no doubt remained as to the propriety

of fitting it up as a barrack. The workmen were accordingly employed,

during the period of high-water, in making preparations for this

purpose.

The foundation-pit now assumed the appearance of a great platform, and

the late tides had been so favourable that it became apparent that the

first course, consisting of a few irregular and detached stones for

making up certain inequalities in the interior parts of the site of the

building, might be laid in the course of the present spring-tides.

Having been enabled to-day to get the dimensions of the foundation, or

first stone, accurately taken, a mould was made of its figure, when the

writer left the rock, after the tide's work of this morning, in a fast

rowing-boat for Arbroath; and, upon landing, two men were immediately

set to work upon one of the blocks from Mylnefield quarry, which was

prepared in the course of the following day, as the stone-cutters

relieved each other, and worked both night and day, so that it was sent

off in one of the stone-lighters without delay.

Saturday, 9th July.

The site of the foundation-stone was very difficult to work, from its

depth in the rock; but being now nearly prepared, it formed a very

agreeable kind of pastime at high-water for all hands to land the stone

itself upon the rock. The landing-master's crew and artificers

accordingly entered with great spirit into this operation. The stone was

placed upon the deck of the _Hedderwick_ praam-boat, which had just been

brought from Leith, and was decorated with colours for the occasion.

Flags were also displayed from the shipping in the offing, and upon the

beacon. Here the writer took his station with the greater part of the

artificers, who supported themselves in every possible position while

the boats towed the praam from her moorings and brought her immediately

over the site of the building, where her grappling anchors were let go.

The stone was then lifted off the deck by a tackle hooked into a Lewis

bat inserted into it, when it was gently lowered into the water and

grounded on the site of the building, amidst the cheering acclamations

of about sixty persons.

Sunday, 10th July.

At eleven o'clock the foundation-stone was laid to hand. It was of a

square form, containing about twenty cubic feet, and had the figures,

or date, of 1808 simply cut upon it with a chisel. A derrick, or spar of

timber, having been erected at the edge of the hole and guyed with

ropes, the stone was then hooked to the tackle and lowered into its

place, when the writer, attended by his assistants--Mr. Peter Logan, Mr.

Francis Watt, and Mr. James Wilson,--applied the square, the level, and

the mallet, and pronounced the following benediction: "May the Great

Architect of the Universe complete and bless this building," on which

three hearty cheers were given, and success to the future operations was

drunk with the greatest enthusiasm.

Tuesday, 26th July.

The wind being at S.E. this evening, we had a pretty heavy swell of sea

upon the rock, and some difficulty attended our getting off in safety,

as the boats got aground in the creek and were in danger of being upset.

Upon extinguishing the torch-lights, about twelve in number, the

darkness of the night seemed quite horrible; the water being also much

charged with the phosphorescent appearance which is familiar to every

one on shipboard, the waves, as they dashed upon the rock, were in some

degree like so much liquid flame. The scene, upon the whole, was truly

awful!

Wednesday, 27th July.

In leaving the rock this evening everything, after the torches were

extinguished, had the same dismal appearance as last night, but so

perfectly acquainted were the landing-master and his crew with the

position of things at the rock, that comparatively little inconveniency

was experienced on these occasions when the weather was moderate; such

is the effect of habit, even in the most unpleasant situations. If, for

example, it had been proposed to a person accustomed to a city life, at

once to take up his quarters off a sunken reef and land upon it in boats

at all hours of the night, the proposition must have appeared quite

impracticable and extravagant; but this practice coming progressively

upon the artificers, it was ultimately undertaken with the greatest

alacrity. Notwithstanding this, however, it must be acknowledged that it

was not till after much labour and peril, and many an anxious hour, that

the writer is enabled to state that the site of the Bell Rock Lighthouse

is fully prepared for the first entire course of the building.

Friday, 12th Aug.

The artificers landed this morning at half-past ten, and after an hour

and a half's work eight stones were laid, which completed the first

entire course of the building, consisting of 123 blocks, the last of

which was laid with three hearty cheers.

Saturday, 10th Sept.

Landed at nine a.m., and by a quarter-past twelve noon twenty-three

stones had been laid. The works being now somewhat elevated by the lower

courses, we got quit of the very serious inconvenience of pumping water

to clear the foundation-pit. This gave much facility to the operations,

and was noticed with expressions of as much happiness by the artificers

as the seamen had shown when relieved of the continual trouble of

carrying the smith's bellows off the rock prior to the erection of the

beacon.

Wednesday, 21st Sept.

Mr. Thomas Macurich, mate of the _Smeaton_, and James Scott, one of the

crew, a young man about eighteen years of age, immediately went into

their boat to make fast a hawser to the ring in the top of the floating

buoy of the moorings, and were forthwith to proceed to land their cargo,

so much wanted, at the rock. The tides at this period were very strong,

and the mooring-chain, when sweeping the ground, had caught hold of a

rock or piece of wreck by which the chain was so shortened that when the

tide flowed the buoy got almost under water, and little more than the

ring appeared at the surface. When Macurich and Scott were in the act of

making the hawser fast to the ring, the chain got suddenly disentangled

at the bottom, and this large buoy, measuring about seven feet in height

and three feet in diameter at the middle, tapering to both ends, being

what seamen term a _Nun-buoy_, vaulted or sprung up with such force that

it upset the boat, which instantly filled with water. Mr. Macurich, with

much exertion, succeeded in getting hold of the boat's gunwale, still

above the surface of the water, and by this means was saved; but the

young man Scott was unfortunately drowned. He had in all probability

been struck about the head by the ring of the buoy, for although

surrounded with the oars and the thwarts of the boat which floated near

him, yet he seemed entirely to want the power of availing himself of

such assistance, and appeared to be quite insensible, while Pool, the

master of the _Smeaton_. called loudly to him; and before assistance

could be got from the tender, he was carried away by the strength of the

current and disappeared.

The young man Scott was a great favourite in the service, having had

something uncommonly mild and complaisant in his manner; and his loss

was therefore universally regretted. The circumstances of his case were

also peculiarly distressing to his mother, as her husband, who was a

seaman, had for three years past been confined to a French prison, and

the deceased was the chief support of the family. In order in some

measure to make up the loss to the poor woman for the monthly aliment

regularly allowed her by her late son, it was suggested that a younger

boy, a brother of the deceased, might be taken into the service. This

appeared to be rather a delicate proposition, but it was left to the

landing-master to arrange according to circumstances; such was the

resignation, and at the same time the spirit, of the poor woman, that

she readily accepted the proposal, and in a few days the younger Scott

was actually afloat in the place of his brother. On representing this

distressing case to the Board, the Commissioners were pleased to grant

an annuity of L5 to Scott's mother.

The _Smeaton_, not having been made fast to the buoy, had, with the

ebb-tide, drifted to leeward a considerable way eastward of the rock,

and could not, till the return of the flood-tide, be worked up to her

moorings, so that the present tide was lost, notwithstanding all

exertions which had been made both ashore and afloat with this cargo.

The artificers landed at six a.m.; but, as no materials could be got

upon the rock this morning, they were employed in boring trenail holes

and in various other operations, and after four hours' work they

returned on board the tender. When the _Smeaton_ got up to her moorings,

the landing-master's crew immediately began to unload her. There being

too much wind for towing the praams in the usual way, they were warped

to the rock in the most laborious manner by their windlasses, with

successive grapplings and hawsers laid out for this purpose. At six p.m.

the artificers landed, and continued at work till half-past ten, when

the remaining seventeen stones were laid which completed the third

entire course, or fourth of the lighthouse, with which the building

operations were closed for the season.

III

OPERATIONS OF 1809

Wednesday, 24th May.

The last night was the first that the writer had passed in his old

quarters on board of the floating light for about twelve months, when

the weather was so fine and the sea so smooth that even here he felt but

little or no motion, excepting at the turn of the tide, when the vessel

gets into what the seamen term the _trough of the sea_. At six a.m. Mr.

Watt, who conducted the operations of the railways and beacon-house, had

landed with nine artificers. At half-past one p.m. Mr. Peter Logan had

also landed with fifteen masons, and immediately proceeded to set up the

crane. The sheer-crane or apparatus for lifting the stones out of the

praam-boats at the eastern creek had been already erected, and the

railways now formed about two-thirds of an entire circle round the

building: some progress had likewise been made with the reach towards

the western landing-place. The floors being laid, the beacon now assumed

the appearance of a habitation. The _Smeaton_ was at her moorings, with

the _Fernie_ praam-boat astern, for which she was laying down moorings,

and the tender being also at her station, the Bell Rock had again put

on its former busy aspect.

Wednesday, 31st May.

The landing-master's bell, often no very favourite sound, rung at six

this morning; but on this occasion, it is believed, it was gladly

received by all on board, as the welcome signal of the return of better

weather. The masons laid thirteen stones to-day, which the seamen had

landed, together with other building materials. During these twenty-four

hours the wind was from the south, blowing fresh breezes, accompanied

with showers of snow. In the morning the snow showers were so thick that

it was with difficulty the landing-master, who always steered the

leading boat, could make his way to the rock through the drift. But at

the Bell Rock neither snow nor rain, nor fog nor wind, retarded the

progress of the work, if unaccompanied by a heavy swell or breach of the

sea.

The weather during the months of April and May had been uncommonly

boisterous, and so cold that the thermometer seldom exceeded 40 deg., while

the barometer was generally about 29.50. We had not only hail and sleet,

but the snow on the last day of May lay on the decks and rigging of the

ship to the depth of about three inches; and, although now entering upon

the month of June, the length of the day was the chief indication of

summer. Yet such is the effect of habit, and such was the expertness of

the landing-master's crew, that, even in this description of weather,

seldom a tide's work was lost. Such was the ardour and zeal of the heads

of the several departments at the rock, including Mr. Peter Logan,

foreman builder, Mr. Francis Watt, foreman millwright, and Captain

Wilson, landing-master, that it was on no occasion necessary to address

them, excepting in the way of precaution or restraint. Under these

circumstances, however, the writer not unfrequently felt considerable

anxiety, of which this day's experience will afford an example.

Thursday, 1st June.

This morning, at a quarter-past eight, the artificers were landed as

usual, and, after three hours and three-quarters' work, five stones were

laid, the greater part of this tide having been taken up in completing

the boring and trenailing of the stones formerly laid. At noon the

writer, with the seamen and artificers, proceeded to the tender, leaving

on the beacon the joiners, and several of those who were troubled with

sea-sickness--among whom was Mr. Logan, who remained with Mr.

Watt--counting altogether eleven persons. During the first and middle

parts of these twenty-four hours the wind was from the east, blowing

what the seamen term "fresh breezes"; but in the afternoon it shifted to

E.N.E., accompanied with so heavy a swell of sea that the _Smeaton_ and

tender struck their topmasts, launched in their bolt-sprits, and "made

all snug" for a gale. At four p.m. the _Smeaton_ was obliged to slip

her moorings, and passed the tender, drifting before the wind, with only

the foresail set. In passing, Mr. Pool hailed that he must run for the

Firth of Forth to prevent the vessel from "riding under."

On board of the tender the writer's chief concern was about the eleven

men left upon the beacon. Directions were accordingly given that

everything about the vessel should be put in the best possible state, to

present as little resistance to the wind as possible, that she might

have the better chance of riding out the gale. Among these preparations

the best bower cable was bent, so as to have a second anchor in

readiness in case the mooring-hawser should give way, that every means

might be used for keeping the vessel within sight of the prisoners on

the beacon, and thereby keep them in as good spirits as possible. From

the same motive the boats were kept afloat that they might be less in

fear of the vessel leaving her station. The landing-master had, however,

repeatedly expressed his anxiety for the safety of the boats, and wished

much to have them hoisted on board. At seven p.m. one of the boats, as

he feared, was unluckily filled with sea from a wave breaking into her,

and it was with great difficulty that she could be baled out and got on

board, with the loss of her oars, rudder, and loose thwarts. Such was

the motion of the ship that in taking this boat on board her gunwale was

stove in, and she otherwise received considerable damage. Night

approached, but it was still found quite impossible to go near the rock.

Consulting, therefore, the safety of the second boat, she also was

hoisted on board of the tender.

At this time the cabins of the beacon were only partially covered, and

had neither been provided with bedding nor a proper fireplace, while the

stock of provisions was but slender. In these uncomfortable

circumstances the people on the beacon were left for the night, nor was

the situation of those on board of the tender much better. The rolling

and pitching motion of the ship was excessive; and, excepting to those

who had been accustomed to a residence in the floating light, it seemed

quite intolerable. Nothing was heard but the hissing of the winds and

the creaking of the bulkheads or partitions of the ship; the night was,

therefore, spent in the most unpleasant reflections upon the condition

of the people on the beacon, especially in the prospect of the tender

being driven from her moorings. But, even in such a case, it afforded

some consolation that the stability of the fabric was never doubted, and

that the boats of the floating light were at no great distance, and

ready to render the people on the rock the earliest assistance which the

weather would permit. The writer's cabin being in the sternmost part of

the ship, which had what sailors term a good entry, or was sharp built,

the sea, as before noticed, struck her counter with so much violence

that the water, with a rushing noise, continually forced its way up the

rudder-case, lifted the valve of the water-closet, and overran the cabin

floor. In these circumstances daylight was eagerly looked for, and

hailed with delight, as well by those afloat as by the artificers upon

the rock.

Friday, 2nd June.

In the course of the night the writer held repeated conversations with

the officer on watch, who reported that the weather continued much in

the same state, and that the barometer still indicated 29.20 inches. At

six a.m. the landing-master considered the weather to have somewhat

moderated; and, from certain appearances of the sky, he was of opinion

that a change for the better would soon take place. He accordingly

proposed to attempt a landing at low-water, and either get the people

off the rock, or at least ascertain what state they were in. At nine

a.m. he left the vessel with a boat well manned, carrying with him a

supply of cooked provisions and a tea-kettle full of mulled port wine

for the people on the beacon, who had not had any regular diet for about

thirty hours, while they were exposed during that period, in a great

measure, both to the winds and the sprays of the sea. The boat having

succeeded in landing, she returned at eleven a.m. with the artificers,

who had got off with considerable difficulty, and who were heartily

welcomed by all on board.

Upon inquiry it appeared that three of the stones last laid upon the

building had been partially lifted from their beds by the force of the

sea, and were now held only by the trenails, and that the cast-iron

sheer-crane had again been thrown down and completely broken. With

regard to the beacon, the sea at high-water had lifted part of the

mortar gallery or lowest floor, and washed away all the lime-casks and

other movable articles from it; but the principal parts of this fabric

had sustained no damage. On pressing Messrs. Logan and Watt on the

situation of things in the course of the night, Mr. Logan emphatically

said; "That the beacon had an _ill-faured[15] twist_ when the sea broke

upon it at high-water, but that they were not very apprehensive of

danger." On inquiring as to how they spent the night, it appeared that

they had made shift to keep a small fire burning, and by means of some

old sails defended themselves pretty well from the sea sprays.

It was particularly mentioned that by the exertions of James Glen, one

of the joiners, a number of articles were saved from being washed off

the mortar gallery. Glen was also very useful in keeping up the spirits

of the forlorn party. In the early part of life he had undergone many

curious adventures at sea, which he now recounted somewhat after the

manner of the tales of the "Arabian Nights." When one observed that the

beacon was a most comfortless lodging, Glen would presently introduce

some of his exploits and hardships, in comparison with which the state

of things at the beacon bore an aspect of comfort and happiness. Looking

to their slender stock of provisions, and their perilous and uncertain

chance of speedy relief, he would launch out into an account of one of

his expeditions in the North Sea, when the vessel, being much disabled

in a storm, was driven before the wind with the loss of almost all their

provisions; and the ship being much infested with rats, the crew hunted

these vermin with great eagerness to help their scanty allowance. By

such means Glen had the address to make his companions, in some measure,

satisfied, or at least passive, with regard to their miserable prospects

upon this half-tide rock in the middle of the ocean. This incident is

noticed, more particularly, to show the effects of such a happy turn of

mind, even under the most distressing and ill-fated circumstances.

Saturday, 17th June.

At eight a.m. the artificers and sailors, forty-five in number, landed

on the rock, and after four hours' work seven stones were laid. The

remainder of this tide, from the threatening appearance of the weather,

was occupied in trenailing and making all things as secure as possible.

At twelve noon the rock and building were again overflowed, when the

masons and seamen went on board of the tender, but Mr. Watt, with his

squad of ten men, remained on the beacon throughout the day. As it blew

fresh from the N.W. in the evening, it was found impracticable either to

land the building artificers or to take the artificers off the beacon,

and they were accordingly left there all night, but in circumstances

very different from those of the 1st of this month. The house, being now

in a more complete state, was provided with bedding, and they spent the

night pretty well, though they complained of having been much disturbed

at the time of high-water by the shaking and tremulous motion of their

house and by the plashing noise of the sea upon the mortar gallery. Here

James Glen's versatile powers were again at work in cheering up those

who seemed to be alarmed, and in securing everything as far as possible.

On this occasion he had only to recall to the recollections of some of

them the former night which they had spent on the beacon, the wind and

sea being then much higher, and their habitation in a far less

comfortable state.

The wind still continuing to blow fresh from the N.W., at five p.m. the

writer caused a signal to be made from the tender for the _Smeaton_ and

_Patriot_ to slip their moorings, when they ran for Lunan Bay, an

anchorage on the east side of the Redhead. Those on board of the tender

spent but a very rough night, and perhaps slept less soundly than their

companions on the beacon, especially as the wind was at N.W., which

caused the vessel to ride with her stern towards the Bell Rock; so that,

in the event of anything giving way, she could hardly have escaped being

stranded upon it.

Sunday, 18th June.

The weather having moderated to-day, the wind shifted to the westward.

At a quarter-past nine a.m. the artificers landed from the tender and

had the pleasure to find their friends who had been left on the rock

quite hearty, alleging that the beacon was the preferable quarters of

the two.

Saturday, 24th June.

Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and his squad, twenty-one in

number, landed this morning at three o'clock, and continued at work four

hours and a quarter, and after laying seventeen stones returned to the

tender. At six a.m. Mr. Francis Watt and his squad of twelve men landed,

and proceeded with their respective operations at the beacon and

railways, and were left on the rock during the whole day without the

necessity of having any communication with the tender, the kitchen of

the beacon-house being now fitted up. It was to-day, also, that Peter

Fortune--a most obliging and well-known character in the Lighthouse

service--was removed from the tender to the beacon as cook and steward,

with a stock of provisions as ample as his limited storeroom would

admit.

When as many stones were built as comprised this day's work, the demand

for mortar was proportionally increased, and the task of the

mortar-makers on these occasions was both laborious and severe. This

operation was chiefly performed by John Watt--a strong, active quarrier

by profession,--who was a perfect character in his way, and extremely

zealous in his department. While the operations of the mortar-makers

continued, the forge upon their gallery was not generally in use; but,

as the working hours of the builders extended with the height of the

building, the forge could not be so long wanted, and then a sad

confusion often ensued upon the circumscribed floor of the mortar

gallery, as the operations of Watt and his assistants trenched greatly

upon those of the smiths. Under these circumstances the boundary of the

smiths was much circumscribed, and they were personally annoyed,

especially in blowy weather, with the dust of the lime in its powdered

state. The mortar-makers, on the other hand, were often not a little

distressed with the heat of the fire and the sparks elicited on the

anvil, and not unaptly complained that they were placed between "the

devil and the deep sea."

Sunday, 25th June.

The work being now about ten feet in height, admitted of a rope-ladder

being distended[16] between the beacon and the building. By this

"Jacob's Ladder," as the seamen termed it, a communication was kept up

with the beacon while the rock was considerably under water. One end of

it being furnished with tackle-blocks, was fixed to the beams of the

beacon, at the level of the mortar gallery, while the further end was

connected with the upper course of the building by means of two Lewis

bats which were lifted from course to course as the work advanced. In

the same manner a rope furnished with a travelling pulley was distended

for the purpose of transporting the mortar-buckets, and other light

articles between the beacon and the building, which also proved a great

conveniency to the work. At this period the rope-ladder and tackle for

the mortar had a descent from the beacon to the building; by and by they

were on a level, and towards the end of the season, when the solid part

had attained its full height, the ascent was from the mortar gallery to

the building.

Friday, 30th June.

The artificers landed on the rock this morning at a quarter-past six,

and remained at work five hours. The cooking apparatus being now in full

operation, all hands had breakfast on the beacon at the usual hour, and

remained there throughout the day. The crane upon the building had to be

raised to-day from the eighth to the ninth course, an operation which

now required all the strength that could be mustered for working the

guy-tackles; for as the top of the crane was at this time about

thirty-five feet above the rock, it became much more unmanageable. While

the beam was in the act of swinging round from one guy to another, a

great strain was suddenly brought upon the opposite tackle, with the end

of which the artificers had very improperly neglected to take a turn

round some stationary object, which would have given them the complete

command of the tackle. Owing to this simple omission, the crane got a

preponderancy to one side, and fell upon the building with a terrible

crash. The surrounding artificers immediately flew in every direction to

get out of its way; but Michael Wishart, the principal builder, having

unluckily stumbled upon one of the uncut trenails, fell upon his back.

His body fortunately got between the movable beam and the upright shaft

of the crane, and was thus saved; but his feet got entangled with the

wheels of the crane and were severely injured. Wishart, being a robust

young man, endured his misfortune with wonderful firmness; he was laid

upon one of the narrow framed beds of the beacon and despatched in a

boat to the tender, where the writer was when this accident happened,

not a little alarmed on missing the crane from the top of the building,

and at the same time seeing a boat rowing towards the vessel with great

speed. When the boat came alongside with poor Wishart, stretched upon a

bed covered with blankets, a moment of great anxiety followed, which

was, however, much relieved when, on stepping into the boat, he was

accosted by Wishart, though in a feeble voice, and with an aspect pale

as death from excessive bleeding. Directions having been immediately

given to the coxswain to apply to Mr. Kennedy at the workyard to procure

the best surgical aid, the boat was sent off without delay to Arbroath.

The writer then landed at the rock, when the crane was in a very short

time got into its place and again put in a working state.

Monday, 3rd July.

The writer having come to Arbroath with the yacht, had an opportunity of

visiting Michael Wishart, the artificer who had met with so severe an

accident at the rock on the 30th ult., and had the pleasure to find him

in a state of recovery. From Dr. Stevenson's account, under whose charge

he had been placed, hopes were entertained that amputation would not be

necessary, as his patient still kept free of fever or any appearance of

mortification; and Wishart expressed a hope that he might, at least, be

ultimately capable of keeping the light at the Bell Rock, as it was not

now likely that he would assist further in building the house.

Saturday, 8th July.

It was remarked to-day, with no small demonstration of joy, that the

tide, being neap, did not, for the first time, overflow the building at

high-water. Flags were accordingly hoisted on the beacon-house and crane

on the top of the building, which were repeated from the floating light,

Lighthouse yacht, tender, _Smeaton, Patriot_, and the two praams. A

salute of three guns was also fired from the yacht at high-water, when,

all the artificers being collected on the top of the building, three

cheers were given in testimony of this important circumstance. A glass

of rum was then served out to all hands on the rock and on board of the

respective ships.

Sunday, 16th July.

Besides laying, boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting thirty-two

stones, several other operations were proceeded with on the rock at

low-water, when some of the artificers were employed at the railways and

at high-water at the beacon-house. The seamen having prepared a quantity

of tarpaulin or cloth laid over with successive coats of hot tar, the

joiners had just completed the covering of the roof with it. This sort

of covering was lighter and more easily managed than sheet-lead in such

a situation. As a further defence against the weather the whole exterior

of this temporary residence was painted with three coats of white-lead

paint. Between the timber framing of the habitable part of the beacon

the interstices were to be stuffed with moss as a light substance that

would resist dampness and check sifting winds; the whole interior was

then to be lined with green baize cloth, so that both without and within

the cabins were to have a very comfortable appearance.

Although the building artificers generally remained on the rock

throughout the day, and the millwrights, joiners, and smiths, while

their number was considerable, remained also during the night, yet the

tender had hitherto been considered as their night quarters. But the

wind having in the course of the day shifted to the N.W., and as the

passage to the tender, in the boats, was likely to be attended with

difficulty, the whole of the artificers, with Mr. Logan, the foreman,

preferred remaining all night on the beacon, which had of late become

the solitary abode of George Forsyth, a jobbing upholsterer, who had

been employed in lining the beacon-house with cloth and in fitting up

the bedding. Forsyth was a tall, thin, and rather loose-made man, who

had an utter aversion at climbing upon the trap-ladders of the beacon,

but especially at the process of boating, and the motion of the ship,

which he said "was death itself." He therefore pertinaciously insisted

with the landing-master in being left upon the beacon, with a small

black dog as his only companion. The writer, however, felt some delicacy

in leaving a single individual upon the rock, who must have been so very

helpless in case of accident. This fabric had, from the beginning, been

rather intended by the writer to guard against accident from the loss or

damage of a boat, and as a place for making mortar, a smith's shop, and

a store for tools during the working months, than as permanent quarters;

nor was it at all meant to be possessed until the joiner-work was

completely finished, and his own cabin, and that for the foreman, in

readiness, when it was still to be left to the choice of the artificers

to occupy the tender or the beacon. He, however, considered Forsyth's

partiality and confidence in the latter as rather a fortunate

occurrence.

Wednesday, 19th July.

The whole of the artificers, twenty-three in number, now removed of

their own accord from the tender, to lodge in the beacon, together with

Peter Fortune, a person singularly adapted for a residence of this kind,

both from the urbanity of his manners and the versatility of his

talents. Fortune, in his person, was of small stature, and rather

corpulent. Besides being a good Scots cook, he had acted both as groom

and house-servant; he had been a soldier, a sutler, a writer's clerk,

and an apothecary, from which he possessed the art of writing and

suggesting recipes, and had hence, also, perhaps, acquired a turn for

making collections in natural history. But in his practice in surgery on

the Bell Rock, for which he received an annual fee of three guineas, he

is supposed to have been rather partial to the use of the lancet. In

short, Peter was the _factotum_ of the beacon-house, where he ostensibly

acted in the several capacities of cook, steward, surgeon, and barber,

and kept a statement of the rations or expenditure of the provisions

with the strictest integrity.

In the present important state of the building, when it had just

attained the height of sixteen feet, and the upper courses, and

especially the imperfect one, were in the wash of the heaviest seas, an

express boat arrived at the rock with a letter from Mr. Kennedy, of the

workyard, stating that in consequence of the intended expedition to

Walcheren, an embargo had been laid on shipping at all the ports of

Great Britain: that both the _Smeaton_ and _Patriot_ were detained at

Arbroath, and that but for the proper view which Mr. Ramsey, the port

officer, had taken of his orders, neither the express boat nor one which

had been sent with provisions and necessaries for the floating light

would have been permitted to leave the harbour. The writer set off

without delay for Arbroath, and on landing used every possible means

with the official people, but their orders were deemed so peremptory

that even boats were not permitted to sail from any port upon the coast.

In the meantime, the collector of the Customs at Montrose applied to the

Board at Edinburgh, but could, of himself, grant no relief to the Bell

Rock shipping.

At this critical period Mr. Adam Duff, then Sheriff of Forfarshire, now

of the county of Edinburgh, and _ex officio_ one of the Commissioners of

the Northern Lighthouses, happened to be at Arbroath. Mr. Duff took an

immediate interest in representing the circumstances of the case to the

Board of Customs at Edinburgh. But such were the doubts entertained on

the subject that, on having previously received the appeal from the

collector at Montrose, the case had been submitted to the consideration

of the Lords of the Treasury, whose decision was now waited for.

In this state of things the writer felt particularly desirous to get the

thirteenth course finished, that the building might be in a more secure

state in the event of bad weather. An opportunity was therefore embraced

on the 25th, in sailing with provisions for the floating light, to carry

the necessary stones to the rock for this purpose, which were landed and

built on the 26th and 27th. But so closely was the watch kept up that a

Custom-house officer was always placed on board of the _Smeaton_ and

_Patriot_ while they were afloat, till the embargo was especially

removed from the lighthouse vessels. The artificers at the Bell Rock had

been reduced to fifteen, who were regularly supplied with provisions,

along with the crew of the floating light, mainly through the port

officer's liberal interpretation of his orders.

Tuesday, 1st Aug.

There being a considerable swell and breach of sea upon the rock

yesterday, the stones could not be got landed till the day following,

when the wind shifted to the southward and the weather improved. But

to-day no less than seventy-eight blocks of stone were landed, of which

forty were built, which completed the fourteenth and part of the

fifteenth courses. The number of workmen now resident in the

beacon-house were augmented to twenty-four, including the

landing-master's crew from the tender and the boat's crew from the

floating light, who assisted at landing the stones. Those daily at work

upon the rock at this period amounted to forty-six. A cabin had been

laid out for the writer on the beacon, but his apartment had been the

last which was finished, and he had not yet taken possession of it; for

though he generally spent the greater part of the day, at this time,

upon the rock, yet he always slept on board of the tender.

Friday, 11th Aug.

The wind was at S.E. on the 11th, and there was so very heavy a swell of

sea upon the rock that no boat could approach it.

Saturday, 12th Aug.

The gale still continuing from the S.E., the sea broke with great

violence both upon the building and the beacon. The former being

twenty-three feet in height, the upper part of the crane erected on it

having been lifted from course to course as the building advanced, was

now about thirty-six feet above the rock. From observations made on the

rise of the sea by this crane, the artificers were enabled to estimate

its height to be about fifty feet above the rock, while the sprays fell

with a most alarming noise upon their cabins. At low-water, in the

evening, a signal was made from the beacon, at the earnest desire of

some of the artificers, for the boats to come to the rock; and although

this could not be effected without considerable hazard, it was, however,

accomplished, when twelve of their number, being much afraid, applied to

the foreman to be relieved, and went on board of the tender. But the

remaining fourteen continued on the rock, with Mr. Peter Logan, the

foreman builder. Although this rule of allowing an option to every man

either to remain on the rock or return to the tender was strictly

adhered to, yet, as it would have been extremely inconvenient to have

had the men parcelled out in this manner, it became necessary to embrace

the first opportunity of sending those who had left the beacon to the

workyard, with as little appearance of intention as possible, lest it

should hurt their feelings, or prevent others from acting according to

their wishes, either in landing on the rock or remaining on the beacon.

Tuesday, 15th Aug.

The wind had fortunately shifted to the S.W. this morning, and though a

considerable breach was still upon the rock, yet the landing-master's

crew were enabled to get one praam-boat, lightly loaded with five

stones, brought in safety to the western creek; these stones were

immediately laid by the artificers, who gladly embraced the return of

good weather to proceed with their operations. The writer had this day

taken possession of his cabin in the beacon-house. It was small, but

commodious, and was found particularly convenient in coarse and blowing

weather, instead of being obliged to make a passage to the tender in an

open boat at all times, both during the day and the night, which was

often attended with much difficulty and danger.

Saturday, 19th Aug.

For some days past the weather had been occasionally so thick and foggy

that no small difficulty was experienced in going even between the rock

and the tender, though quite at hand. But the floating light's boat lost

her way so far in returning on board that the first land she made, after

rowing all night, was Fifeness, a distance of about fourteen miles. The

weather having cleared in the morning, the crew stood off again for the

floating light, and got on board in a half-famished and much exhausted

state, having been constantly rowing for about sixteen hours.

Sunday, 20th Aug.

The weather being very favourable to-day, fifty-three stones were

landed, and the builders were not a little gratified in having built the

twenty-second course, consisting of fifty-one stones, being the first

course which had been completed in one day. This, as a matter of course,

produced three hearty cheers. At twelve noon prayers were read for the

first time on the Bell Rock; those present, counting thirty, were

crowded into the upper apartment of the beacon, where the writer took a

central position, while two of the artificers, joining hands, supported

the Bible.

Friday, 25th Aug.

To-day the artificers laid forty-five stones, which completed the

twenty-fourth course, reckoning above the first entire one, and the

twenty-sixth above the rock. This finished the solid part of the

building, and terminated the height of the outward casing of granite,

which is thirty-one feet six inches above the rock or site of the

foundation-stone, and about seventeen feet above high water of

spring-tides. Being a particular crisis in the progress of the

lighthouse, the landing and laying of the last stone for the season was

observed with the usual ceremonies.

From observations often made by the writer, in so far as such can be

ascertained, it appears that no wave in the open seas, in an unbroken

state, rises more than from seven to nine feet above the general surface

of the ocean. The Bell Rock Lighthouse may therefore now be considered

at from eight to ten feet above the height of the waves; and, although

the sprays and heavy seas have often been observed, in the present

state of the building, to rise to the height of fifty feet, and fall

with a tremendous noise on the beacon-house, yet such seas were not

likely to make any impression on a mass of solid masonry, containing

about 1400 tons.

Wednesday, 30th Aug.

The whole of the artificers left the rock at mid-day, when the tender

made sail for Arbroath, which she reached about six p.m. The vessel

being decorated with colours, and having fired a salute of three guns on

approaching the harbour, the workyard artificers, with a multitude of

people, assembled at the harbour, when mutual cheering and

congratulations took place between those afloat and those on the quays.

The tender had now, with little exception, been six months on the

station at the Bell Rock, and during the last four months few of the

squad of builders had been ashore. In particular, Mr. Peter Logan, the

foreman, and Mr. Robert Selkirk, principal builder, had never once left

the rock. The artificers, having made good wages during their stay, like

seamen upon a return voyage, were extremely happy, and spent the evening

with much innocent mirth and jollity.

In reflecting upon the state of the matters at the Bell Rock during the

working months, when the writer was much with the artificers, nothing

can equal the happy manner in which these excellent workmen spent their

time. They always went from Arbroath to their arduous task cheering, and

they generally returned in the same hearty state. While at the rock,

between the tides, they amused themselves in reading, fishing, music,

playing cards, draughts, etc., or in sporting with one another. In the

workyard at Arbroath the young men were almost, without exception,

employed in the evening at school, in writing and arithmetic, and not a

few were learning architectural drawing, for which they had every

convenience and facility, and were, in a very obliging manner, assisted

in their studies by Mr. David Logan, clerk of the works. It therefore

affords the most pleasing reflections to look back upon the pursuits of

about sixty individuals who for years conducted themselves, on all

occasions, in a sober and rational manner.

IV

OPERATIONS OF 1810

Thursday, 10th May.

The wind had shifted to-day to W.N.W., when the writer, with

considerable difficulty, was enabled to land upon the rock for the first

time this season, at ten a.m. Upon examining the state of the building,

and apparatus in general, he had the satisfaction to find everything in

good order. The mortar in all the joints was perfectly entire. The

building, now thirty feet in height, was thickly coated with _fuci_ to

the height of about fifteen feet, calculating from the rock; on the

eastern side, indeed, the growth of seaweed was observable to the full

height of thirty feet, and even on the top or upper bed of the last-laid

course, especially towards the eastern side, it had germinated, so as to

render walking upon it somewhat difficult.

The beacon-house was in a perfectly sound state, and apparently just as

it had been left in the month of November. But the tides being neap, the

lower parts, particularly where the beams rested on the rock, could not

now be seen. The floor of the mortar gallery having been already laid

down by Mr. Watt and his men on a former visit, was merely soaked with

the sprays; but the joisting-beams which supported it had, in the course

of the winter, been covered with a fine downy conferva produced by the

range of the sea. They were also a good deal whitened with the mute of

the cormorant and other sea-fowls, which had roosted upon the beacon in

winter. Upon ascending to the apartments, it was found that the motion

of the sea had thrown open the door of the cook-house: this was only

shut with a single latch, that in case of shipwreck at the Bell Rock the

mariner might find ready access to the shelter of this forlorn

habitation, where a supply of provisions was kept; and being within two

miles and a half of the floating light, a signal could readily be

observed, when a boat might be sent to his relief as soon as the weather

permitted. An arrangement for this purpose formed one of the

instructions on board of the floating light, but happily no instance

occurred for putting it in practice. The hearth or fireplace of the

cook-house was built of brick in as secure a manner as possible to

prevent accident from fire; but some of the plaster-work had shaken

loose, from its damp state and the tremulous motion of the beacon in

stormy weather. The writer next ascended to the floor which was occupied

by the cabins of himself and his assistants, which were in tolerably

good order, having only a damp and musty smell. The barrack for the

artificers, over all, was next visited; it had now a very dreary and

deserted appearance when its former thronged state was recollected. In

some parts the water had come through the boarding, and had discoloured

the lining of green cloth, but it was, nevertheless, in a good habitable

condition. While the seamen were employed in landing a stock of

provisions, a few of the artificers set to work with great eagerness to

sweep and clean the several apartments. The exterior of the beacon was,

in the meantime, examined, and found in perfect order. The painting,

though it had a somewhat blanched appearance, adhered firmly both on the

sides and roof, and only two or three panes of glass were broken in the

cupola, which had either been blown out by the force of the wind or

perhaps broken by sea-fowl.

Having on this occasion continued upon the building and beacon a

considerable time after the tide had begun to flow, the artificers were

occupied in removing the forge from the top of the building, to which

the gangway or wooden bridge gave great facility; and, although it

stretched or had a span of forty-two feet, its construction was

extremely simple, while the roadway was perfectly firm and steady. In

returning from this visit to the rock every one was pretty well soused

in spray before reaching the tender at two o'clock p.m., where things

awaited the landing party in as comfortable a way as such a situation

would admit.

Friday, 11th May.

The wind was still easterly, accompanied with rather a heavy swell of

sea for the operations in hand. A landing was, however, made this

morning, when the artificers were immediately employed in scraping the

seaweed off the upper course of the building, in order to apply the

moulds of the first course of the staircase, that the joggle-holes might

be marked off in the upper course of the solid. This was also necessary

previously to the writer's fixing the position of the entrance door,

which was regulated chiefly by the appearance of the growth of the

seaweed on the building, indicating the direction of the heaviest seas,

on the opposite side of which the door was placed. The landing-master's

crew succeeded in towing into the creek on the western side of the rock

the praam-boat with the balance-crane, which had now been on board of

the praam for five days. The several pieces of this machine, having been

conveyed along the railways upon the waggons to a position immediately

under the bridge, were elevated to its level, or thirty feet above the

rock, in the following manner. A chain-tackle was suspended over a

pulley from the cross-beam connecting the tops of the kingposts of the

bridge, which was worked by a winch-machine with wheel, pinion, and

barrel, round which last the chain was wound. This apparatus was placed

on the beacon side of the bridge, at the distance of about twelve feet

from the cross-beam and pulley in the middle of the bridge. Immediately

under the cross-beam a hatch was formed in the roadway of the bridge,

measuring seven feet in length and five feet in breadth, made to shut

with folding boards like a double door, through which stones and other

articles were raised; the folding doors were then let down, and the

stone or load was gently lowered upon a waggon which was wheeled on

railway trucks towards the lighthouse. In this manner the several

castings of the balance-crane were got up to the top of the solid of the

building.

The several apartments of the beacon-house having been cleaned out and

supplied with bedding, a sufficient stock of provisions was put into the

store, when Peter Fortune, formerly noticed, lighted his fire in the

beacon for the first time this season. Sixteen artificers at the same

time mounted to their barrack-room, and all the foremen of the works

also took possession of their cabin, all heartily rejoiced at getting

rid of the trouble of boating and the sickly motion of the tender.

Saturday, 12th May.

The wind was at E.N.E., blowing so fresh, and accompanied with so much

sea, that no stones could be landed to-day. The people on the rock,

however, were busily employed in screwing together the balance-crane,

cutting out the joggle-holes in the upper course, and preparing all

things for commencing the building operations.

Sunday, 13th May.

The weather still continues boisterous, although the barometer has all

the while stood at about 30 inches. Towards evening the wind blew so

fresh at E. by S. that the boats both of the _Smeaton_ and tender were

obliged to be hoisted in, and it was feared that the _Smeaton_ would

have to slip her moorings. The people on the rock were seen busily

employed, and had the balance-crane apparently ready for use, but no

communication could be had with them to-day.

Monday, 14th May.

The wind continued to blow so fresh, and the _Smeaton_ rode so heavily

with her cargo, that at noon a signal was made for her getting under

weigh, when she stood towards Arbroath; and on board of the tender we

are still without any communication with the people on the rock, where

the sea was seen breaking over the top of the building in great sprays,

and raging with much agitation among the beams of the beacon.

Thursday, 17th May.

The wind, in the course of the day, had shifted from north to west; the

sea being also considerably less, a boat landed on the rock at six p.m.,

for the first time since the 11th, with the provisions and water brought

off by the _Patriot_. The inhabitants of the beacon were all well, but

tired above measure for want of employment, as the balance-crane and

apparatus was all in readiness. Under these circumstances they felt no

less desirous of the return of good weather than those afloat, who were

continually tossed with the agitation of the sea. The writer, in

particular, felt himself almost as much fatigued and worn-out as he had

been at any period since the commencement of the work. The very backward

state of the weather at so advanced a period of the season unavoidably

created some alarm, lest he should be overtaken with bad weather at a

late period of the season, with the building operations in an unfinished

state. These apprehensions were, no doubt, rather increased by the

inconveniences of his situation afloat, as the tender rolled and pitched

excessively at times. This being also his first off-set for the season,

every bone of his body felt sore with preserving a sitting posture while

he endeavoured to pass away the time in reading; as for writing, it was

wholly impracticable. He had several times entertained thoughts of

leaving the station for a few days and going into Arbroath with the

tender till the weather should improve; but as the artificers had been

landed on the rock he was averse to this at the commencement of the

season, knowing also that he would be equally uneasy in every situation

till the first cargo was landed: and he therefore resolved to continue

at his post until this should be effected.

Friday, 18th May.

The wind being now N.W., the sea was considerably run down, and this

morning at five o'clock the landing-master's crew, thirteen in number,

left the tender; and having now no detention with the landing of

artificers, they proceeded to unmoor the _Hedderwick_ praam-boat, and

towed her alongside of the _Smeaton_: and in the course of the day

twenty-three blocks of stone, three casks of pozzolano, three of sand,

three of lime, and one of Roman cement, together with three bundles of

trenails and three of wedges, were all landed on the rock and raised to

the top of the building by means of the tackle suspended from the

cross-beam on the middle of the bridge. The stones were then moved along

the bridge on the waggon to the building within reach of the

balance-crane, with which they were laid in their respective places on

the building. The masons immediately thereafter proceeded to bore the

trenail-holes into the course below, and otherwise to complete the one

in hand. When the first stone was to be suspended by the balance-crane,

the bell on the beacon was rung, and all the artificers and seamen were

collected on the building. Three hearty cheers were given while it was

lowered into its place, and the steward served round a glass of rum,

when success was drunk to the further progress of the building.

Sunday, 20th May.

The wind was southerly to-day, but there was much less sea than

yesterday, and the landing-master's crew were enabled to discharge and

land twenty-three pieces of stone and other articles for the work. The

artificers had completed the laying of the twenty-seventh or first

course of the staircase this morning, and in the evening they finished

the boring, trenailing, wedging, and grouting it with mortar. At twelve

o'clock noon the beacon-house bell was rung, and all hands were

collected on the top of the building, where prayers were read for the

first time on the lighthouse, which forcibly struck every one, and had,

upon the whole, a very impressive effect.

From the hazardous situation of the beacon-house with regard to fire,

being composed wholly of timber, there was no small risk from accident:

and on this account one of the most steady of the artificers was

appointed to see that the fire of the cooking-house, and the lights in

general, were carefully extinguished at stated hours.

Monday, 4th June.

This being the birthday of our much-revered Sovereign King George III,

now in the fiftieth year of his reign, the shipping of the Lighthouse

service were this morning decorated with colours according to the taste

of their respective captains. Flags were also hoisted upon the

beacon-house and balance-crane on the top of the building. At twelve

noon a salute was fired from the tender, when the King's health was

drunk, with all the honours, both on the rock and on board of the

shipping.

Tuesday, 5th June.

As the lighthouse advanced in height, the cubical contents of the stones

were less, but they had to be raised to a greater height; and the walls,

being thinner, were less commodious for the necessary machinery and the

artificers employed, which considerably retarded the work. Inconvenience

was also occasionally experienced from the men dropping their coats,

hats, mallets, and other tools, at high-water, which were carried away

by the tide; and the danger to the people themselves was now greatly

increased. Had any of them fallen from the beacon or building at

high-water, while the landing-master's crew were generally engaged with

the craft at a distance, it must have rendered the accident doubly

painful to those on the rock, who at this time had no boat, and

consequently no means of rendering immediate and prompt assistance. In

such cases it would have been too late to have got a boat by signal from

the tender. A small boat, which could be lowered at pleasure, was

therefore suspended by a pair of davits projected from the cook-house,

the keel being about thirty feet from the rock. This boat, with its

tackle, was put under the charge of James Glen, of whose exertions on

the beacon mention has already been made, and who, having in early life

been a seaman, was also very expert in the management of a boat. A

life-buoy was likewise suspended from the bridge, to which a coil of

line two hundred fathoms in length was attached, which could be let out

to a person falling into the water, or to the people in the boat, should

they not be able to work her with the oars.

Thursday, 7th June.

To-day twelve stones were landed on the rock, being the remainder of the

_Patriot's_ cargo; and the artificers built the thirty-ninth course,

consisting of fourteen stones. The Bell Rock works had now a very busy

appearance, as the lighthouse was daily getting more into form. Besides

the artificers and their cook, the writer and his servant were also

lodged on the beacon, counting in all twenty-nine; and at low-water the

landing-master's crew, consisting of from twelve to fifteen seamen,

were employed in transporting the building materials, working the

landing apparatus on the rock, and dragging the stone waggons along the

railways.

Friday, 8th June.

In the course of this day the weather varied much. In the morning it was

calm, in the middle part of the day there were light airs of wind from

the south, and in the evening fresh breezes from the east. The barometer

in the writer's cabin in the beacon-house oscillated from 30 inches to

30.42, and the weather was extremely pleasant. This, in any situation,

forms one of the chief comforts of life; but, as may easily be

conceived, it was doubly so to people stuck, as it were, upon a pinnacle

in the middle of the ocean.

Sunday, 10th June.

One of the praam-boats had been brought to the rock with eleven stones,

notwithstanding the perplexity which attended the getting of those

formerly landed taken up to the building. Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman

builder, interposed and prevented this cargo from being delivered; but

the landing-master's crew were exceedingly averse to this arrangement,

from an idea that "ill luck" would in future attend the praam, her

cargo, and those who navigated her, from thus reversing her voyage. It

may be noticed that this was the first instance of a praam-boat having

been sent from the Bell Rock with any part of her cargo on board, and

was considered so uncommon an occurrence that it became a topic of

conversation among the seamen and artificers.

Tuesday, 12th June.

To-day the stones formerly sent from the rock were safely landed,

notwithstanding the augury of the seamen in consequence of their being

sent away two days before.

Thursday, 14th June.

To-day twenty-seven stones and eleven joggle-pieces were landed, part of

which consisted of the forty-seventh course, forming the storeroom

floor. The builders were at work this morning by four o'clock, in the

hopes of being able to accomplish the laying of the eighteen stones of

this course. But at eight o'clock in the evening they had still two to

lay, and as the stones of this course were very unwieldy, being six feet

in length, they required much precaution and care both in lifting and

laying them. It was only on the writer's suggestion to Mr. Logan that

the artificers were induced to leave off, as they had intended to

complete this floor before going to bed. The two remaining stones were,

however, laid in their places without mortar when the bell on the beacon

was rung, and, all hands being collected on the top of the building,

three hearty cheers were given on covering the first apartment. The

steward then served out a dram to each, when the whole retired to their

barrack much fatigued, but with the anticipation of the most perfect

repose even in the "hurricane-house," amidst the dashing seas on the

Bell Rock.

While the workmen were at breakfast and dinner it was the writer's usual

practice to spend his time on the walls of the building, which,

notwithstanding the narrowness of the track, nevertheless formed his

principal walk when the rock was under water. But this afternoon he had

his writing-desk set upon the storeroom floor, when he wrote to Mrs.

Stevenson--certainly the first letter dated from the Bell Rock

_Lighthouse_--giving a detail of the fortunate progress of the work,

with an assurance that the lighthouse would soon be completed at the

rate at which it now proceeded; and, the _Patriot_ having sailed for

Arbroath in the evening, he felt no small degree of pleasure in

despatching this communication to his family.

The weather still continuing favourable for the operations at the rock,

the work proceeded with much energy, through the exertions both of the

seamen and artificers. For the more speedy and effectual working of the

several tackles in raising the materials as the building advanced in

height, and there being a great extent of railway to attend to, which

required constant repairs, two additional millwrights were added to the

complement on the rock, which, including the writer, now counted

thirty-one in all. So crowded was the men's barrack that the beds were

ranged five tier in height, allowing only about one foot eight inches

for each bed. The artificers commenced this morning at five o'clock,

and, in the course of the day, they laid the forty-eighth and

forty-ninth courses, consisting each of sixteen blocks. From the

favourable state of the weather, and the regular manner in which the

work now proceeded, the artificers had generally from four to seven

extra hours' work, which, including their stated wages of 3s. 4d.,

yielded them from 5s. 4d. to about 6s. 10d. per day besides their board;

even the postage of their letters was paid while they were at the Bell

Rock. In these advantages the foremen also shared, having about double

the pay and amount of premiums of the artificers. The seamen being less

out of their element in the Bell Rock operations than the landsmen,

their premiums consisted in a slump sum payable at the end of the

season, which extended from three to ten guineas.

As the laying of the floors was somewhat tedious, the landing-master and

his crew had got considerably beforehand with the building artificers in

bringing materials faster to the rock than they could be built. The

seamen having, therefore, some spare time, were occasionally employed

during fine weather in dredging or grappling for the several mushroom

anchors and mooring-chains which had been lost in the vicinity of the

Bell Rock during the progress of the work by the breaking loose and

drifting of the floating buoys. To encourage their exertions in this

search, five guineas were offered as a premium for each set they should

find; and, after much patient application, they succeeded to-day in

hooking one of these lost anchors with its chain.

It was a general remark at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, that fish

were never plenty in its neighbourhood excepting in good weather.

Indeed, the seamen used to speculate about the state of the weather from

their success in fishing. When the fish disappeared at the rock, it was

considered a sure indication that a gale was not far off, as the fish

seemed to seek shelter in deeper water from the roughness of the sea

during these changes in the weather. At this time the rock, at

high-water, was completely covered with podlies, or the fry of the

coal-fish, about six or eight inches in length. The artificers sometimes

occupied half an hour after breakfast and dinner in catching these

little fishes, but were more frequently supplied from the boats of the

tender.

Saturday, 16th June.

The landing-master having this day discharged the _Smeaton_ and loaded

the _Hedderwick_ and _Dickie_ praam-boats with nineteen stones, they

were towed to their respective moorings, when Captain Wilson, in

consequence of the heavy swell of sea, came in his boat to the

beacon-house to consult with the writer as to the propriety of venturing

the loaded praam-boats with their cargoes to the rock while so much sea

was running. After some dubiety expressed on the subject, in which the

ardent mind of the landing-master suggested many arguments in favour of

his being able to convey the praams in perfect safety, it was acceded

to. In bad weather, and especially on occasions of difficulty like the

present, Mr. Wilson, who was an extremely active seaman, measuring about

five feet three inches in height, of a robust habit, generally dressed

himself in what he called a _monkey jacket_, made of thick duffle cloth,

with a pair of Dutchman's petticoat trousers, reaching only to his

knees, where they were met with a pair of long water-tight boots; with

this dress, his glazed hat, and his small brass speaking-trumpet in his

hand, he bade defiance to the weather. When he made his appearance in

this most suitable attire for the service, his crew seemed to possess

additional life, never failing to use their utmost exertions when the

captain put on his _storm rigging._ They had this morning commenced

loading the praam-boats at four o'clock, and proceeded to tow them into

the eastern landing-place, which was accomplished with much dexterity,

though not without the risk of being thrown, by the force of the sea, on

certain projecting ledges of the rock. In such a case the loss even of a

single stone would have greatly retarded the work. For the greater

safety in entering the creek it was necessary to put out several warps

and guy-ropes to guide the boats into its narrow and intricate entrance;

and it frequently happened that the sea made a clean breach over the

praams, which not only washed their decks, but completely drenched the

crew in water.

Sunday, 17th June.

It was fortunate, in the present state of the weather, that the fiftieth

course was in a sheltered spot, within the reach of the tackle of the

winch-machine upon the bridge; a few stones were stowed upon the bridge

itself, and the remainder upon the building, which kept the artificers

at work. The stowing of the materials upon the rock was the department

of Alexander Brebner, mason, who spared no pains in attending to the

safety of the stones, and who, in the present state of the work, when

the stones were landed faster than could be built, generally worked till

the water rose to his middle. At one o'clock to-day the bell rung for

prayers, and all hands were collected into the upper barrack-room of the

beacon-house, when the usual service was performed.

The wind blew very hard in the course of last night from N.E., and

to-day the sea ran so high that no boat could approach the rock. During

the dinner-hour, when the writer was going to the top of the building as

usual, but just as he had entered the door and was about to ascend the

ladder, a great noise was heard overhead, and in an instant he was

soused in water from a sea which had most unexpectedly come over the

walls, though now about fifty-eight feet in height. On making his

retreat he found himself completely whitened by the lime, which had

mixed with the water while dashing down through the different floors;

and, as nearly as he could guess, a quantity equal to about a hogshead

had come over the walls, and now streamed out at the door. After having

shifted himself, he again sat down in his cabin, the sea continuing to

run so high that the builders did not resume their operations on the

walls this afternoon. The incident just noticed did not create more

surprise in the mind of the writer than the sublime appearance of the

waves as they rolled majestically over the rock. This scene he greatly

enjoyed while sitting at his cabin window; each wave approached the

beacon like a vast scroll unfolding; and in passing discharged a

quantity of air, which he not only distinctly felt, but was even

sufficient to lift the leaves of a book which lay before him. These

waves might be ten or twelve feet in height, and about 250 feet in

length, their smaller end being towards the north, where the water was

deep, and they were opened or cut through by the interposition of the

building and beacon. The gradual manner in which the sea, upon these

occasions, is observed to become calm or to subside, is a very

remarkable feature of this phenomenon. For example, when a gale is

succeeded by a calm, every third or fourth wave forms one of these great

seas, which occur in spaces of from three to five minutes, as noted by

the writer's watch; but in the course of the next tide they become less

frequent, and take off so as to occur only in ten or fifteen minutes;

and, singular enough, at the third tide after such gales, the writer has

remarked that only one or two of these great waves appear in the course

of the whole tide.

Tuesday, 19th June.

The 19th was a very unpleasant and disagreeable day, both for the seamen

and artificers, as it rained throughout with little intermission from

four a.m. till eleven p.m., accompanied with thunder and lightning,

during which period the work nevertheless continued unremittingly and

the builders laid the fifty-first and fifty-second courses. This state

of weather was no less severe upon the mortar-makers, who required to

temper or prepare the mortar of a thicker or thinner consistency, in

some measure, according to the state of the weather. From the elevated

position of the building, the mortar gallery on the beacon was now much

lower, and the lime-buckets were made to traverse upon a rope distended

between it and the building. On occasions like the present, however,

there was often a difference of opinion between the builders and the

mortar-makers. John Watt, who had the principal charge of the mortar,

was a most active worker, but, being somewhat of an irascible temper,

the builders occasionally amused themselves at his expense: for while he

was eagerly at work with his large iron-shod pestle in the mortar-tub,

they often sent down contradictory orders, some crying, "Make it a

little stiffer, or thicker, John," while others called out to make it

"thinner," to which he generally returned very speedy and sharp replies,

so that these conversations at times were rather amusing.

During wet weather the situation of the artificers on the top of the

building was extremely disagreeable; for although their work did not

require great exertion, yet, as each man had his particular part to

perform, either in working the crane or in laying the stones, it

required the closest application and attention, not only on the part of

Mr. Peter Logan, the foreman, who was constantly on the walls, but also

of the chief workmen. Robert Selkirk, the principal builder, for

example, had every stone to lay in its place. David Cumming, a mason,

had the charge of working the tackle of the balance-weight, and James

Scott, also a mason, took charge of the purchase with which the stones

were laid; while the pointing the joints of the walls with cement was

intrusted to William Reid and William Kennedy, who stood upon a scaffold

suspended over the walls in rather a frightful manner. The least act of

carelessness or inattention on the part of any of these men might have

been fatal, not only to themselves, but also to the surrounding workmen,

especially if any accident had happened to the crane itself, while the

material damage or loss of a single stone would have put an entire stop

to the operations until another could have been brought from Arbroath.

The artificers, having wrought seven and a half hours of extra time

to-day, had 3s. 9d. of extra pay, while the foremen had 7s. 6d. over and

above their stated pay and board. Although, therefore, the work was both

hazardous and fatiguing, yet, the encouragement being considerable, they

were always very cheerful, and perfectly reconciled to the confinement

and other disadvantages of the place.

During fine weather, and while the nights were short, the duty on board

of the floating light was literally nothing but a waiting on, and

therefore one of her boats, with a crew of five men, daily attended the

rock, but always returned to the vessel at night. The carpenter,

however, was one of those who was left on board of the ship, as he also

acted in the capacity of assistant lightkeeper, being, besides, a person

who was apt to feel discontent and to be averse to changing his

quarters, especially to work with the millwrights and joiners at the

rock, who often, for hours together, wrought knee-deep, and not

unfrequently up to the middle, in water. Mr. Watt having about this time

made a requisition for another hand, the carpenter was ordered to attend

the rock in the floating light's boat. This he did with great

reluctance, and found so much fault that he soon got into discredit with

his messmates. On this occasion he left the Lighthouse service, and went

as a sailor in a vessel bound for America--a step which, it is believed,

he soon regretted, as, in the course of things, he would, in all

probability, have accompanied Mr John Reid, the principal lightkeeper of

the floating light, to the Bell Rock Lighthouse as his principal

assistant. The writer had a wish to be of service to this man, as he was

one of those who came off to the floating light in the month of

September 1807, while she was riding at single anchor after the severe

gale of the 7th, at a time when it was hardly possible to make up this

vessel's crew; but the crossness of his manner prevented his reaping the

benefit of such intentions.

Friday, 22nd June.

The building operations had for some time proceeded more slowly, from

the higher parts of the lighthouse requiring much longer time than an

equal tonnage of the lower courses. The duty of the landing-master's

crew had, upon the whole, been easy of late; for though the work was

occasionally irregular, yet the stones being lighter, they were more

speedily lifted from the hold of the stone vessel to the deck of the

praam-boat, and again to the waggons on the railway, after which they

came properly under the charge of the foreman builder. It is, however, a

strange, though not an uncommon, feature in the human character, that,

when people have least to complain of they are most apt to become

dissatisfied, as was now the case with the seamen employed in the Bell

Rock service about their rations of beer. Indeed, ever since the

carpenter of the floating light, formerly noticed, had been brought to

the rock, expressions of discontent had been manifested upon various

occasions. This being represented to the writer, he sent for Captain

Wilson, the landing-master, and Mr. Taylor, commander of the tender,

with whom he talked over the subject. They stated that they considered

the daily allowance of the seamen in every respect ample, and that, the

work being now much lighter than formerly, they had no just ground for

complaint; Mr. Taylor adding that, if those who now complained "were

even to be fed upon soft bread and turkeys, they would not think

themselves right." At twelve noon the work of the landing-master's crew

was completed for the day; but at four o'clock, while the rock was under

water, those on the beacon were surprised by the arrival of a boat from

the tender without any signal having been made from the beacon. It

brought the following note to the writer from the landing-master's

crew:--

_Sir Joseph Banks Tender_

"SIR,--We are informed by our masters that our allowance is to be as

before, and it is not sufficient to serve us, for we have been at

work since four o'clock this morning, and we have come on board to

dinner, and there is no beer for us before to-morrow morning, to

which a sufficient answer is required before we go from the beacon;

and we are, Sir, your most obedient servants."

On reading this, the writer returned a verbal message, intimating

that an answer would be sent on board of the tender, at the same time

ordering the boat instantly to quit the beacon. He then addressed the

following note to the landing-master:--

"_Beacon-house, 22nd June 1810, Five o'clock p.m._

"SIR,--I have just now received a letter purporting to be from the

landing-master's crew and seamen on board of the _Sir Joseph Banks_,

though without either date or signature; in answer to which I enclose

a statement of the daily allowance of provisions for the seamen in

this service, which you will post up in the ship's galley, and at

seven o'clock this evening I will come on board to inquire into this

unexpected and most unnecessary demand for an additional allowance

of beer. In the enclosed you will not find any alteration from the

original statement, fixed in the galley at the beginning of the

season. I have, however, judged this mode of giving your people an

answer preferable to that of conversing with them on the beacon.--I

am, Sir, your most obedient servant,

"ROBERT STEVENSON.

"To CAPTAIN WILSON."

"_Beacon House_, 22_nd June_ 1810.--Schedule of the daily allowance

of provisions to be served out on board of the _Sir Joseph Banks_

tender: '1-1/2 lb. beef; 1 lb. bread; 8 oz. oatmeal; 2 oz. barley; 2

oz. butter; 3 quarts beer; vegetables and salt no stated allowance.

When the seamen are employed in unloading the _Smeaton_ and

_Patriot_, a draught of beer is, as formerly, to be allowed from the

stock of these vessels. Further, in wet and stormy weather, or when

the work commences very early in the morning, or continues till a

late hour at night, a glass of spirits will also be served out to the

crew as heretofore, on the requisition of the landing-master.'

"ROBERT STEVENSON."

On writing this letter and schedule, a signal was made on the beacon for

the landing-master's boat, which immediately came to the rock, and the

schedule was afterwards stuck up in the tender's galley. When sufficient

time had been allowed to the crew to consider of their conduct, a second

signal was made for a boat, and at seven o'clock the writer left the

Bell Rock, after a residence of four successive weeks in the

beacon-house. The first thing which occupied his attention on board of

the tender was to look round upon the lighthouse, which he saw, with

some degree of emotion and surprise, now vying in height with the

beacon-house; for although he had often viewed it from the extremity of

the western railway on the rock, yet the scene, upon the whole, seemed

far more interesting from the tender's moorings at the distance of about

half a mile.

The _Smeaton_ having just arrived at her moorings with a cargo, a signal

was made for Captain Pool to come on board of the tender, that he might

be at hand to remove from the service any of those who might persist in

their discontented conduct. One of the two principal leaders in this

affair, the master of one of the praam-boats, who had also steered the

boat which brought the letter to the beacon, was first called upon deck,

and asked if he had read the statement fixed up in the galley this

afternoon, and whether he was satisfied with it. He replied that he had

read the paper, but was not satisfied, as it held out no alteration on

the allowance, on which he was immediately ordered into the _Smeaton's_

boat. The next man called had but lately entered the service, and, being

also interrogated as to his resolution, he declared himself to be of the

same mind with the praam-master, and was also forthwith ordered into the

boat. The writer, without calling any more of the seamen, went forward

to the gangway, where they were collected and listening to what was

passing upon deck. He addressed them at the hatchway, and stated that

two of their companions had just been dismissed the service and sent on

board of the _Smeaton_ to be conveyed to Arbroath. He therefore wished

each man to consider for himself how far it would be proper, by any

unreasonableness of conduct, to place themselves in a similar situation,

especially as they were aware that it was optional in him either to

dismiss them or send them on board a man-of-war. It might appear that

much inconveniency would be felt at the rock by a change of hands at

this critical period, by checking for a time the progress of a building

so intimately connected with the best interests of navigation; yet this

would be but of a temporary nature, while the injury to themselves might

be irreparable. It was now, therefore, required of any man who, in this

disgraceful manner, chose to leave the service, that he should instantly

make his appearance on deck while the _Smeaton's_ boat was alongside.

But those below having expressed themselves satisfied with their

situation--viz., William Brown, George Gibb, Alexander Scott, John Dick,

Robert Couper, Alexander Shephard, James Grieve, David Carey, William

Pearson, Stuart Eaton, Alexander Lawrence, and John Spink--were

accordingly considered as having returned to their duty. This

disposition to mutiny, which had so strongly manifested itself, being

now happily suppressed, Captain Pool got orders to proceed for Arbroath

Bay, and land the two men he had on board, and to deliver the following

letter at the office of the workyard:--

"_On board of the Tender off the Bell Rock_,

22_nd June_ 1810, _eight o'clock p.m._

"DEAR SIR,--A discontented and mutinous spirit having manifested

itself of late among the landing-master's crew, they struck work

to-day and demanded an additional allowance of beer, and I have found

it necessary to dismiss D----d and M----e, who are now sent on shore

with the _Smeaton_. You will therefore be so good as to pay them

their wages, including this day only. Nothing can be more

unreasonable than the conduct of the seamen on this occasion, as the

landing-master's crew not only had their allowance on board of the

tender, but, in the course of this day, they had drawn no fewer than

twenty-four quart pots of beer from the stock of the _Patriot_ while

unloading her.--I remain, yours truly,

"ROBERT STEVENSON.

"To Mr. LACHLAN KENNEDY,

Bell Rock Office, Arbroath."

On despatching this letter to Mr. Kennedy, the writer returned to the

beacon about nine o'clock, where this afternoon's business had produced

many conjectures, especially when the _Smeaton_ got under weigh, instead

of proceeding to land her cargo. The bell on the beacon being rung, the

artificers were assembled on the bridge, when the affair was explained

to them. He, at the same time, congratulated them upon the first

appearance of mutiny being happily set at rest by the dismissal of its

two principal abettors.

Sunday, 24th June.

At the rock, the landing of the materials and the building operations of

the light-room store went on successfully, and in a way similar to those

of the provision store. To-day it blew fresh breezes; but the seamen

nevertheless landed twenty-eight stones, and the artificers built the

fifty-eighth and fifty-ninth courses. The works were visited by Mr.

Murdoch, junior, from Messrs. Boulton and Watt's works of Soho. He

landed just as the bell rung for prayers, after which the writer enjoyed

much pleasure from his very intelligent conversation; and, having been

almost the only stranger he had seen for some weeks, he parted with him,

after a short interview, with much regret.

Thursday, 28th June.

Last night the wind had shifted to north-east, and, blowing fresh, was

accompanied with a heavy surf upon the rock. Towards high-water it had a

very grand and wonderful appearance. Waves of considerable magnitude

rose as high as the solid or level of the entrance-door, which, being

open to the south-west, was fortunately to the leeward; but on the

windward side the sprays flew like lightning up the sloping sides of the

building; and although the walls were now elevated sixty-four feet above

the rock, and about fifty-two feet from high-water mark, yet the

artificers were nevertheless wetted, and occasionally interrupted, in

their operations on the top of the walls. These appearances were, in a

great measure, new at the Bell Rock, there having till of late been no

building to conduct the seas, or object to compare with them. Although,

from the description of the Eddystone Lighthouse, the mind was prepared

for such effects, yet they were not expected to the present extent in

the summer season; the sea being most awful to-day, whether observed

from the beacon or the building. To windward, the sprays fell from the

height above noticed in the most wonderful cascades, and streamed down

the walls of the building in froth as white as snow. To leeward of the

lighthouse the collision or meeting of the waves produced a pure white

kind of _drift_: it rose about thirty feet in height, like a fine downy

mist, which, in its fall, fell upon the face and hands more like a dry

powder than a liquid substance. The effect of these seas, as they raged

among the beams and dashed upon the higher parts of the beacon, produced

a temporary tremulous motion throughout the whole fabric, which to a

stranger must have been frightful.

Sunday, 1st July.

The writer had now been at the Bell Rock since the latter end of May, or

about six weeks, during four of which he had been a constant inhabitant

of the beacon without having been once off the rock. After witnessing

the laying of the sixty-seventh or second course of the bedroom

apartment, he left the rock with the tender and went ashore, as some

arrangements were to be made for the future conduct of the works at

Arbroath, which were soon to be brought to a close; the landing-master's

crew having, in the meantime, shifted on board of the _Patriot_. In

leaving the rock, the writer kept his eyes fixed upon the lighthouse,

which had recently got into the form of a house, having several tiers or

stories of windows. Nor was he unmindful of his habitation in the

beacon--now far overtopped by the masonry,--where he had spent several

weeks in a kind of active retirement, making practical experiment of the

fewness of the positive wants of man. His cabin measured not more than

four feet three inches in breadth on the floor; and though, from the

oblique direction of the beams of the beacon, it widened towards the

top, yet it did not admit of the full extension of his arms when he

stood on the floor; while its length was little more than sufficient for

suspending a cot-bed during the night, calculated for being triced up to

the roof through the day, which left free room for the admission of

occasional visitants. His folding table was attached with hinges,

immediately under the small window of the apartment, and his books,

barometer, thermometer, portmanteau, and two or three camp-stools,

formed the bulk of his movables. His diet being plain, the paraphernalia

of the table were proportionally simple; though everything had the

appearance of comfort, and even of neatness, the walls being covered

with green cloth formed into panels with red tape, and his bed festooned

with curtains of yellow cotton-stuff. If, in speculating upon the

abstract wants of man in such a state of exclusion, one were reduced to

a single book, the Sacred Volume--whether considered for the striking

diversity of its story, the morality of its doctrine, or the important

truths of its gospel--would have proved by far the greatest treasure.

Monday, 2nd July.