CHAPTER II

THE SERVICE OF THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

I

It were hard to imagine a contrast more sharply defined than that

between the lives of the men and women of this family: the one so

chambered, so centred in the affections and the sensibilities; the other

so active, healthy, and expeditious. From May to November, Thomas Smith

and Robert Stevenson were on the mail, in the saddle, or at sea; and my

grandfather, in particular, seems to have been possessed with a demon of

activity in travel. In 1802, by direction of the Northern Lighthouse

Board, he had visited the coast of England from St. Bees, in Cumberland,

and round by the Scilly Islands to some place undecipherable by me; in

all a distance of 2500 miles. In 1806 I find him starting "on a tour

round the south coast of England, from the Humber to the Severn." Peace

was not long declared ere he found means to visit Holland, where he was

in time to see, in the navy-yard at Helvoetsluys, "about twenty of

Bonaparte's _English flotilla_ lying in a state of decay, the object of

curiosity to Englishmen." By 1834 he seems to have been acquainted with

the coast of France from Dieppe to Bordeaux; and a main part of his duty

as Engineer to the Board of Northern Lights was one round of dangerous

and laborious travel.

In 1786, when Thomas Smith first received the appointment, the extended

and formidable coast of Scotland was lighted at a single point--the Isle

of May, in the jaws of the Firth of Forth, where, on a tower already a

hundred and fifty years old, an open coal-fire blazed in an iron

chauffer. The whole archipelago, thus nightly plunged in darkness, was

shunned by sea-going vessels, and the favourite courses were north about

Shetland and west about St. Kilda. When the Board met, four new lights

formed the extent of their intentions--Kinnaird Head, in Aberdeenshire,

at the eastern elbow of the coast; North Ronaldsay, in Orkney, to keep

the north and guide ships passing to the south'ard of Shetland; Island

Glass, on Harris, to mark the inner shore of the Hebrides and illuminate

the navigation of the Minch; and the Mull of Kintyre. These works were

to be attempted against obstacles, material and financial, that might

have staggered the most bold. Smith had no ship at his command till

1791; the roads in those outlandish quarters where his business lay were

scarce passable when they existed, and the tower on the Mull of Kintyre

stood eleven months unlighted while the apparatus toiled and foundered

by the way among rocks and mosses. Not only had towers to be built and

apparatus transplanted, the supply of oil must be maintained, and the

men fed, in the same inaccessible and distant scenes; a whole service,

with its routine and hierarchy, had to be called out of nothing; and a

new trade (that of lightkeeper) to be taught, recruited, and organised.

The funds of the Board were at the first laughably inadequate. They

embarked on their career on a loan of twelve hundred pounds, and their

income in 1789, after relief by a fresh Act of Parliament, amounted to

less than three hundred. It must be supposed that the thoughts of Thomas

Smith, in these early years, were sometimes coloured with despair; and

since he built and lighted one tower after another, and created and

bequeathed to his successors the elements of an excellent

administration, it may be conceded that he was not after all an

unfortunate choice for a first engineer.

War added fresh complications. In 1794 Smith came "very near to be

taken" by a French squadron. In 1813 Robert Stevenson was cruising about

the neighbourhood of Cape Wrath in the immediate fear of Commodore

Rogers. The men, and especially the sailors, of the lighthouse service

must be protected by a medal and ticket from the brutal activity of the

press-gang. And the zeal of volunteer patriots was at times

embarrassing.

"I set off on foot," writes my grandfather, "for Marazion, a town at

the head of Mount's Bay, where I was in hopes of getting a boat to

freight. I had just got that length, and was making the necessary

inquiry, when a young man, accompanied by several idle-looking

fellows, came up to me, and in a hasty tone said, 'Sir, in the king's

name I seize your person and papers.' To which I replied that I

should be glad to see his authority, and know the reason of an

address so abrupt. He told me the want of time prevented his taking

regular steps, but that it would be necessary for me to return to

Penzance, as I was suspected of being a French spy. I proposed to

submit my papers to the nearest Justice of Peace, who was immediately

applied to, and came to the inn where I was. He seemed to be greatly

agitated, and quite at a loss how to proceed. The complaint preferred

against me was 'that I had examined the Longships Lighthouse with the

most minute attention, and was no less particular in my inquiries at

the keepers of the lighthouse regarding the sunk rocks lying off the

Land's End, with the sets of the currents and tides along the coast:

that I seemed particularly to regret the situation of the rocks

called the Seven Stones, and the loss of a beacon which the Trinity

Board had caused to be fixed on the Wolf Rock; that I had taken notes

of the bearings of several sunk rocks, and a drawing of the

lighthouse, and of Cape Cornwall. Further, that I had refused the

honour of Lord Edgecombe's invitation to dinner, offering as an

apology that I had some particular business on hand.'"

My grandfather produced in answer his credentials and letter of credit;

but the justice, after perusing them, "very gravely observed that they

were 'musty bits of paper,'" and proposed to maintain the arrest. Some

more enlightened magistrates at Penzance relieved him of suspicion and

left him at liberty to pursue his journey,--"which I did with so much

eagerness," he adds, "that I gave the two coal lights on the Lizard only

a very transient look."

Lighthouse operations in Scotland differed essentially in character from

those in England. The English coast is in comparison a habitable, homely

place, well supplied with towns; the Scottish presents hundreds of

miles of savage islands and desolate moors. The Parliamentary committee

of 1834, profoundly ignorant of this distinction, insisted with my

grandfather that the work at the various stations should be let out on

contract "in the neighbourhood," where sheep and deer, and gulls and

cormorants, and a few ragged gillies, perhaps crouching in a bee-hive

house, made up the only neighbours. In such situations repairs and

improvements could only be overtaken by collecting (as my grandfather

expressed it) a few "lads," placing them under charge of a foreman, and

despatching them about the coast as occasion served. The particular

danger of these seas increased the difficulty. The course of the

lighthouse tender lies amid iron-bound coasts, among tide-races, the

whirlpools of the Pentland Firth, flocks of islands, flocks of reefs,

many of them uncharted. The aid of steam was not yet. At first in random

coasting sloop, and afterwards in the cutter belonging to the service,

the engineer must ply and run amongst these multiplied dangers, and

sometimes late into the stormy autumn. For pages together my

grandfather's diary preserves a record of these rude experiences; of

hard winds and rough seas; and of "the try-sail and storm-jib, those old

friends which I never like to see." They do not tempt to quotation, but

it was the man's element, in which he lived, and delighted to live, and

some specimen must be presented. On Friday, September 10th, 1830, the

_Regent_ lying in Lerwick Bay, we have this entry: "The gale increases,

with continued rain." On the morrow, Saturday, 11th, the weather

appeared to moderate, and they put to sea, only to be driven by evening

into Levenswick. There they lay, "rolling much," with both anchors ahead

and the square yard on deck, till the morning of Saturday, 18th.

Saturday and Sunday they were plying to the southward with a "strong

breeze and a heavy sea," and on Sunday evening anchored in Otterswick.

"Monday, 20th, it blows so fresh that we have no communication with the

shore. We see Mr. Rome on the beach, but we cannot communicate with

him. It blows 'mere fire,' as the sailors express it." And for three

days more the diary goes on with tales of davits unshipped, high seas,

strong gales from the southward, and the ship driven to refuge in

Kirkwall or Deer Sound. I have many a passage before me to transcribe,

in which my grandfather draws himself as a man of minute and anxious

exactitude about details. It must not be forgotten that these voyages in

the tender were the particular pleasure and reward of his existence;

that he had in him a reserve of romance which carried him delightedly

over these hardships and perils; that to him it was "great gain" to be

eight nights and seven days in the savage bay of Levenswick--to read a

book in the much agitated cabin--to go on deck and hear the gale scream

in his ears, and see the landscape dark with rain, and the ship plunge

at her two anchors--and to turn in at night and wake again at morning,

in his narrow berth, to the clamorous and continued voices of the gale.

His perils and escapes were beyond counting. I shall only refer to two:

the first, because of the impression made upon himself; the second, from

the incidental picture it presents of the north islanders. On the 9th

October 1794 he took passage from Orkney in the sloop _Elizabeth_ of

Stromness. She made a fair passage till within view of Kinnaird Head,

where, as she was becalmed some three miles in the offing, and wind

seemed to threaten from the south-east, the captain landed him, to

continue his journey more expeditiously ashore. A gale immediately

followed, and the _Elizabeth_ was driven back to Orkney and lost with

all hands. The second escape I have been in the habit of hearing related

by an eye-witness, my own father, from the earliest days of childhood.

On a September night, the _Regent_ lay in the Pentland Firth in a fog

and a violent and windless swell. It was still dark, when they were

alarmed by the sound of breakers, and an anchor was immediately let go.

The peep of dawn discovered them swinging in desperate proximity to the

Isle of Swona[10] and the surf bursting close under their stern. There

was in this place a hamlet of the inhabitants, fisher-folk and wreckers;

their huts stood close about the head of the beach. All slept; the doors

were closed, and there was no smoke, and the anxious watchers on board

ship seemed to contemplate a village of the dead. It was thought

possible to launch a boat and tow the _Regent_ from her place of danger;

and with this view a signal of distress was made and a gun fired with a

red-hot poker from the galley. Its detonation awoke the sleepers. Door

after door was opened, and in the grey light of the morning fisher after

fisher was seen to come forth, yawning and stretching himself, nightcap

on head. Fisher after fisher, I wrote, and my pen tripped; for it should

rather stand wrecker after wrecker. There was no emotion, no animation,

it scarce seemed any interest; not a hand was raised; but all callously

awaited the harvest of the sea, and their children stood by their side

and waited also. To the end of his life, my father remembered that

amphitheatre of placid spectators on the beach, and with a special and

natural animosity, the boys of his own age. But presently a light air

sprang up, and filled the sails, and fainted, and filled them again; and

little by little the _Regent_ fetched way against the swell, and clawed

off shore into the turbulent firth.

The purpose of these voyages was to effect a landing on open beaches or

among shelving rocks, not for persons only, but for coals and food, and

the fragile furniture of light-rooms. It was often impossible. In 1831 I

find my grandfather "hovering for a week" about the Pentland Skerries

for a chance to land; and it was almost always difficult. Much knack and

enterprise were early developed among the seamen of the service; their

management of boats is to this day a matter of admiration; and I find my

grandfather in his diary depicting the nature of their excellence in

one happily descriptive phrase, when he remarks that Captain Soutar had

landed "the small stores and nine casks of oil _with all the activity of

a smuggler_." And it was one thing to land, another to get on board

again. I have here a passage from the diary, where it seems to have been

touch-and-go. "I landed at Tarbetness, on the eastern side of the point,

in _a mere gale or blast of wind_ from west-south-west, at 2 p.m. It

blew so fresh that the captain, in a kind of despair, went off to the

ship, leaving myself and the steward ashore. While I was in the

lightroom, I felt it shaking and waving, not with the tremor of the Bell

Rock, but with the _waving of a tree_! This the lightkeepers seemed to

be quite familiar to, the principal keeper remarking that 'it was very

pleasant,' perhaps meaning interesting or curious. The captain worked

the vessel into smooth water with admirable dexterity, and I got on

board again about 6 p.m. from the other side of the point." But not even

the dexterity of Soutar could prevail always; and my grandfather must at

times have been left in strange berths and with but rude provision. I

may instance the case of my father, who was storm-bound three days upon

an islet, sleeping in the uncemented and unchimneyed houses of the

islanders, and subsisting on a diet of nettlesoup and lobsters.

The name of Soutar has twice escaped my pen, and I feel I owe him a

vignette. Soutar first attracted notice as mate of a praam at the Bell

Rock, and rose gradually to be captain of the _Regent_. He was active,

admirably skilled in his trade, and a man incapable of fear. Once, in

London, he fell among a gang of confidence-men, naturally deceived by

his rusticity and his prodigious accent. They plied him with drink--a

hopeless enterprise, for Soutar could not be made drunk; they proposed

cards, and Soutar would not play. At last, one of them, regarding him

with a formidable countenance, inquired if he were not frightened? "I'm

no' very easy fleyed," replied the captain. And the rooks withdrew

after some easier pigeon. So many perils shared, and the partial

familiarity of so many voyages, had given this man a stronghold in my

grandfather's estimation; and there is no doubt but he had the art to

court and please him with much hypocritical skill. He usually dined on

Sundays in the cabin. He used to come down daily after dinner for a

glass of port or whisky, often in his full rig of sou'-wester, oilskins,

and long boots; and I have often heard it described how insinuatingly he

carried himself on these appearances, artfully combining the extreme of

deference with a blunt and seamanlike demeanour. My father and uncles,

with the devilish penetration of the boy, were far from being deceived;

and my father, indeed, was favoured with an object-lesson not to be

mistaken. He had crept one rainy night into an apple-barrel on deck, and

from this place of ambush overheard Soutar and a comrade conversing in

their oilskins. The smooth sycophant of the cabin had wholly

disappeared, and the boy listened with wonder to a vulgar and truculent

ruffian. Of Soutar, I may say _tantum vidi_, having met him in the Leith

docks now more than thirty years ago, when he abounded in the praises of

my grandfather, encouraged me (in the most admirable manner) to pursue

his footprints, and left impressed for ever on my memory the image of

his own Bardolphian nose. He died not long after.

The engineer was not only exposed to the hazards of the sea; he must

often ford his way by land to remote and scarce accessible places,

beyond reach of the mail or the post-chaise, beyond even the tracery of

the bridle-path, and guided by natives across bog and heather. Up to

1807 my grandfather seems to have travelled much on horseback; but he

then gave up the idea--"such," he writes with characteristic emphasis

and capital letters, "is the Plague of Baiting." He was a good

pedestrian; at the age of fifty-eight I find him covering seventeen

miles over the moors of the Mackay country in less than seven hours, and

that is not bad travelling for a scramble. The piece of country

traversed was already a familiar track, being that between Loch Eriboll

and Cape Wrath; and I think I can scarce do better than reproduce from

the diary some traits of his first visit. The tender lay in Loch

Eriboll; by five in the morning they sat down to breakfast on board; by

six they were ashore--my grandfather, Mr. Slight an assistant, and

Soutar of the jolly nose, and had been taken in charge by two young

gentlemen of the neighbourhood and a pair of gillies. About noon they

reached the Kyle of Durness and passed the ferry. By half-past three

they were at Cape Wrath--not yet known by the emphatic abbreviation of

"The Cape"--and beheld upon all sides of them unfrequented shores, an

expanse of desert moor, and the high-piled Western Ocean. The site of

the tower was chosen. Perhaps it is by inheritance of blood, but I know

few things more inspiriting than this location of a lighthouse in a

designated space of heather and air, through which the sea-birds are

still flying. By 9 p.m. the return journey had brought them again to the

shores of the Kyle. The night was dirty, and as the sea was high and the

ferry-boat small, Soutar and Mr. Stevenson were left on the far side,

while the rest of the party embarked and were received into the

darkness. They made, in fact, a safe though an alarming passage; but the

ferryman refused to repeat the adventure; and my grandfather and the

captain long paced the beach, impatient for their turn to pass, and

tormented with rising anxiety as to the fate of their companions. At

length they sought the shelter of a shepherd's house. "We had miserable

up-putting," the diary continues, "and on both sides of the ferry much

anxiety of mind. Our beds were clean straw, and but for the circumstance

of the boat, I should have slept as soundly as ever I did after a walk

through moss and mire of sixteen hours."

To go round the lights, even to-day, is to visit past centuries. The

tide of tourists that flows yearly in Scotland, vulgarising all where it

approaches, is still defined by certain barriers. It will be long ere

there is a hotel at Sumburgh or a hydropathic at Cape Wrath; it will be

long ere any _char-a-banc_, laden with tourists, shall drive up to Barra

Head or Monach, the Island of the Monks. They are farther from London

than St. Petersburg, and except for the towers, sounding and shining all

night with fog-bells and the radiance of the light-room, glittering by

day with the trivial brightness of white paint, these island and

moorland stations seem inaccessible to the civilisation of to-day, and

even to the end of my grandfather's career the isolation was far

greater. There ran no post at all in the Long Island; from the

lighthouse on Barra Head a boat must be sent for letters as far as

Tobermory, between sixty and seventy miles of open sea; and the posts of

Shetland, which had surprised Sir Walter Scott in 1814, were still

unimproved in 1833, when my grandfather reported on the subject. The

group contained at the time a population of 30,000 souls, and enjoyed a

trade which had increased in twenty years sevenfold, to between three

and four thousand tons. Yet the mails were despatched and received by

chance coasting vessels at the rate of a penny a letter; six and eight

weeks often elapsed between opportunities, and when a mail was to be

made up, sometimes at a moment's notice, the bellman was sent hastily

through the streets of Lerwick. Between Shetland and Orkney, only

seventy miles apart, there was "no trade communication whatever."

Such was the state of affairs, only sixty years ago, with the three

largest clusters of the Scottish Archipelago; and forty-seven years

earlier, when Thomas Smith began his rounds, or forty-two, when Robert

Stevenson became conjoined with him in these excursions, the barbarism

was deep, the people sunk in superstition, the circumstances of their

life perhaps unique in history. Lerwick and Kirkwall, like Guam or the

Bay of Islands, were but barbarous ports where whalers called to take up

and to return experienced seamen. On the outlying islands the clergy

lived isolated, thinking other thoughts, dwelling in a different

country from their parishioners, like missionaries in the South Seas.

My grandfather's unrivalled treasury of anecdote was never written down;

it embellished his talk while he yet was, and died with him when he

died; and such as have been preserved relate principally to the islands

of Ronaldsay and Sanday, two of the Orkney group. These bordered on one

of the water-highways of civilisation; a great fleet passed annually in

their view, and of the shipwrecks of the world they were the scene and

cause of a proportion wholly incommensurable to their size. In one year,

1798, my grandfather found the remains of no fewer than five vessels on

the isle of Sanday, which is scarcely twelve miles long.

"Hardly a year passed," he writes, "without instances of this kind;

for, owing to the projecting points of this strangely formed island,

the lowness and whiteness of its eastern shores, and the wonderful

manner in which the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes

and pools of water, it becomes, even in daylight, a deception, and

has often been fatally mistaken for an open sea. It had even become

proverbial with some of the inhabitants to observe that 'if wrecks

were to happen, they might as well be sent to the poor isle of Sanday

as anywhere else.' On this and the neighbouring islands the

inhabitants had certainly had their share of wrecked goods, for the

eye is presented with these melancholy remains in almost every form.

For example, although quarries are to be met with generally in these

islands, and the stones are very suitable for building dykes

(_Anglice_, walls), yet instances occur of the land being enclosed,

even to a considerable extent, with ship-timbers. The author has

actually seen a park (_Anglice_, meadow) paled round chiefly with

cedar-wood and mahogany from the wreck of a Honduras-built ship; and

in one island, after the wreck of a ship laden with wine, the

inhabitants have been known to take claret to their barley-meal

porridge. On complaining to one of the pilots of the badness of his

boat's sails, he replied to the author with some degree of

pleasantry, 'Had it been His will that you camena' here wi' your

lights, we might a' had better sails to our boats, and more o' other

things.' It may further be mentioned that when some of Lord Dundas's

farms are to be let in these islands a competition takes place for

the lease, and it is _bona fide_ understood that a much higher rent

is paid than the lands would otherwise give were it not for the

chance of making considerably by the agency and advantages attending

shipwrecks on the shores of the respective farms."

The people of North Ronaldsay still spoke Norse, or, rather, mixed it

with their English. The walls of their huts were built to a great

thickness of rounded stones from the sea-beach; the roof flagged, loaded

with earth, and perforated by a single hole for the escape of smoke. The

grass grew beautifully green on the flat house-top, where the family

would assemble with their dogs and cats, as on a pastoral lawn; there

were no windows, and in my grandfather's expression, "there was really

no demonstration of a house unless it were the diminutive door." He once

landed on Ronaldsay with two friends. "The inhabitants crowded and

pressed so much upon the strangers that the bailiff, or resident factor

of the island, blew with his ox-horn, calling out to the natives to

stand off and let the gentlemen come forward to the laird; upon which

one of the islanders, as spokesman, called out, 'God ha'e us, man! thou

needsna mak' sic a noise. It's no' every day we ha'e _three hatted men_

on our isle.'" When the Surveyor of Taxes came (for the first time,

perhaps) to Sanday, and began in the King's name to complain of the

unconscionable swarms of dogs, and to menace the inhabitants with

taxation, it chanced that my grandfather and his friend, Dr. Patrick

Neill, were received by an old lady in a Ronaldsay hut. Her hut, which

was similar to the model described, stood on a Ness, or point of land

jutting into the sea. They were made welcome in the firelit cellar,

placed "in _casey_ or straw-worked chairs, after the Norwegian fashion,

with arms, and a canopy overhead," and given milk in a wooden dish.

These hospitalities attended to, the old lady turned at once to Dr.

Neill, whom she took for the Surveyor of Taxes. "Sir," said she, "gin

ye'll tell the King that I canna keep the Ness free o' the Bangers

(sheep) without twa hun's, and twa guid hun's too, he'll pass me threa

the tax on dugs."

This familiar confidence, these traits of engaging simplicity, are

characters of a secluded people. Mankind--and, above all,

islanders--come very swiftly to a bearing, and find very readily, upon

one convention or another, a tolerable corporate life. The danger is to

those from without, who have not grown up from childhood in the

islands, but appear suddenly in that narrow horizon, life-sized

apparitions. For these no bond of humanity exists, no feeling of kinship

is awakened by their peril; they will assist at a shipwreck, like the

fisher-folk of Lunga, as spectators, and when the fatal scene is over,

and the beach strewn with dead bodies, they will fence their fields with

mahogany, and, after a decent grace, sup claret to their porridge. It is

not wickedness: it is scarce evil; it is only, in its highest power, the

sense of isolation and the wise disinterestedness of feeble and poor

races. Think how many viking ships had sailed by these islands in the

past, how many vikings had landed, and raised turmoil, and broken up the

barrows of the dead, and carried off the wines of the living; and blame

them, if you are able, for that belief (which may be called one of the

parables of the devil's gospel) that a man rescued from the sea will

prove the bane of his deliverer. It might be thought that my

grandfather, coming there unknown, and upon an employment so hateful to

the inhabitants, must have run the hazard of his life. But this were to

misunderstand. He came franked by the laird and the clergyman; he was

the King's officer; the work was "opened with prayer by the Rev. Walter

Trail, minister of the parish"; God and the King had decided it, and the

people of these pious islands bowed their heads. There landed, indeed,

in North Ronaldsay, during the last decade of the eighteenth century, a

traveller whose life seems really to have been imperilled. A very little

man of a swarthy complexion, he came ashore, exhausted and unshaved,

from a long boat passage, and lay down to sleep in the home of the

parish schoolmaster. But he had been seen landing. The inhabitants had

identified him for a Pict, as, by some singular confusion of name, they

called the dark and dwarfish aboriginal people of the land. Immediately

the obscure ferment of a race-hatred, grown into a superstition, began

to work in their bosoms, and they crowded about the house and the

room-door with fearful whisperings. For some time the schoolmaster held

them at bay, and at last despatched a messenger to call my grandfather.

He came: he found the islanders beside themselves at this unwelcome

resurrection of the dead and the detested; he was shown, as adminicular

of testimony, the traveller's uncouth and thick-soled boots; he argued,

and finding argument unavailing, consented to enter the room and examine

with his own eyes the sleeping Pict. One glance was sufficient: the man

was now a missionary, but he had been before that an Edinburgh

shopkeeper with whom my grandfather had dealt. He came forth again with

this report, and the folk of the island, wholly relieved, dispersed to

their own houses. They were timid as sheep and ignorant as limpets; that

was all. But the Lord deliver us from the tender mercies of a frightened

flock!

I will give two more instances of their superstition. When Sir Walter

Scott visited the Stones of Stennis, my grandfather put in his pocket a

hundred-foot line, which he unfortunately lost.

"Some years afterwards," he writes, "one of my assistants on a visit

to the Stones of Stennis took shelter from a storm in a cottage close

by the lake; and seeing a box-measuring-line in the bole or sole of

the cottage window, he asked the woman where she got this well-known

professional appendage. She said: 'O sir, ane of the bairns fand it

lang syne at the Stanes; and when drawing it out we took fright, and

thinking it had belanged to the fairies, we threw it into the bole,

and it has layen there ever since.'"

This is for the one; the last shall be a sketch by the master hand of

Scott himself:--

"At the village of Stromness, on the Orkney main island, called

Pomona, lived, in 1814, an aged dame called Bessie Millie, who helped

out her subsistence by selling favourable winds to mariners. He was a

venturous master of a vessel who left the roadstead of Stromness

without paying his offering to propitiate Bessie Millie! Her fee was

extremely moderate, being exactly sixpence, for which she boiled her

kettle and gave the bark the advantage of her prayers, for she

disclaimed all unlawful acts. The wind thus petitioned for was sure,

she said, to arrive, though occasionally the mariners had to wait

some time for it. The woman's dwelling and appearance were not

unbecoming her pretensions. Her house, which was on the brow of the

steep hill on which Stromness is founded, was only accessible by a

series of dirty and precipitous lanes, and for exposure might have

been the abode of Eolus himself, in whose commodities the inhabitant

dealt. She herself was, as she told us, nearly one hundred years old,

withered and dried up like a mummy. A clay-coloured kerchief, folded

round her neck, corresponded in colour to her corpse-like complexion.

Two light blue eyes that gleamed with a lustre like that of insanity,

an utterance of astonishing rapidity, a nose and chin that almost met

together, and a ghastly expression of cunning, gave her the effect of

Hecate. Such was Bessie Millie, to whom the mariners paid a sort of

tribute with a feeling between jest and earnest."

II

From about the beginning of the century up to 1807 Robert Stevenson was

in partnership with Thomas Smith. In the last-named year the partnership

was dissolved; Thomas Smith returning to his business, and my

grandfather becoming sole engineer to the Board of Northern Lights.

I must try, by excerpts from his diary and correspondence, to convey to

the reader some idea of the ardency and thoroughness with which he threw

himself into the largest and least of his multifarious engagements in

this service. But first I must say a word or two upon the life of

lightkeepers, and the temptations to which they are more particularly

exposed. The lightkeeper occupies a position apart among men. In

sea-towers the complement has always been three since the deplorable

business in the Eddystone, when one keeper died, and the survivor,

signalling in vain for relief, was compelled to live for days with the

dead body. These usually pass their time by the pleasant human expedient

of quarrelling; and sometimes, I am assured, not one of the three is on

speaking terms with any other. On shore stations, which on the Scottish

coast are sometimes hardly less isolated, the usual number is two, a

principal and an assistant. The principal is dissatisfied with the

assistant, or perhaps the assistant keeps pigeons, and the principal

wants the water from the roof. Their wives and families are with them,

living cheek by jowl. The children quarrel; Jockie hits Jimsie in the

eye, and the mothers make haste to mingle in the dissension. Perhaps

there is trouble about a broken dish; perhaps Mrs. Assistant is more

highly born than Mrs. Principal and gives herself airs; and the men are

drawn in and the servants presently follow. "Church privileges have been

denied the keeper's and the assistant's servants," I read in one case,

and the eminently Scots periphrasis means neither more nor less than

excommunication, "on account of the discordant and quarrelsome state of

the families. The cause, when inquired into, proves to be

_tittle-tattle_ on both sides." The tender comes round; the foremen and

artificers go from station to station; the gossip flies through the

whole system of the service, and the stories, disfigured and

exaggerated, return to their own birthplace with the returning tender.

The English Board was apparently shocked by the picture of these

dissensions. "When the Trinity House can," I find my grandfather writing

at Beachy Head, in 1834, "they do not appoint two keepers, they disagree

so ill. A man who has a family is assisted by his family; and in this

way, to my experience and present observation, the business is very much

neglected. One keeper is, in my view, a bad system. This day's visit to

an English lighthouse convinces me of this, as the lightkeeper was

walking on a staff with the gout, and the business performed by one of

his daughters, a girl of thirteen or fourteen years of age." This man

received a hundred a year! It shows a different reading of human nature,

perhaps typical of Scotland and England, that I find in my grandfather's

diary the following pregnant entry: _"The lightkeepers, agreeing ill,

keep one another to their duty."_ But the Scottish system was not alone

founded on this cynical opinion. The dignity and the comfort of the

northern lightkeeper were both attended to. He had a uniform to "raise

him in his own estimation, and in that of his neighbour, which is of

consequence to a person of trust. The keepers," my grandfather goes on,

in another place, "are attended to in all the detail of accommodation in

the best style as shipmasters; and this is believed to have a sensible

effect upon their conduct, and to regulate their general habits as

members of society." He notes, with the same dip of ink, that "the

brasses were not clean, and the persons of the keepers not _trig_"; and

thus we find him writing to a culprit: "I have to complain that you are

not cleanly in your person, and that your manner of speech is ungentle,

and rather inclines to rudeness. You must therefore take a different

view of your duties as a lightkeeper." A high ideal for the service

appears in these expressions, and will be more amply illustrated further

on. But even the Scottish lightkeeper was frail. During the unbroken

solitude of the winter months, when inspection is scarce possible, it

must seem a vain toil to polish the brass hand-rail of the stair, or to

keep an unrewarded vigil in the lightroom; and the keepers are

habitually tempted to the beginnings of sloth, and must unremittingly

resist. He who temporises with his conscience is already lost. I must

tell here an anecdote that illustrates the difficulties of inspection.

In the days of my uncle David and my father there was a station which

they regarded with jealousy. The two engineers compared notes and were

agreed. The tower was always clean, but seemed always to bear traces of

a hasty cleansing, as though the keepers had been suddenly forewarned.

On inquiry, it proved that such was the case, and that a wandering

fiddler was the unfailing harbinger of the engineer. At last my father

was storm-stayed one Sunday in a port at the other side of the island.

The visit was quite overdue, and as he walked across upon the Monday

morning he promised himself that he should at last take the keepers

unprepared. They were both waiting for him in uniform at the gate; the

fiddler had been there on Saturday!

My grandfather, as will appear from the following extracts, was much a

martinet, and had a habit of expressing himself on paper with an almost

startling emphasis. Personally, with his powerful voice, sanguine

countenance, and eccentric and original locutions, he was well qualified

to inspire a salutary terror in the service.

"I find that the keepers have, by some means or another, got into the

way of cleaning too much with rotten-stone and oil. I take the

principal keeper to _task_ on this subject, and make him bring a

clean towel and clean one of the brazen frames, which leaves the

towel in an odious state. This towel I put up in a sheet of paper,

seal, and take with me to confront Mr. Murdoch, who has just left the

station." "This letter"--a stern enumeration of complaints--"to lie a

week on the lightroom book-place, and to be put in the Inspector's

hands when he comes round." "It is the most painful thing that can

occur for me to have a correspondence of this kind with any of the

keepers; and when I come to the Lighthouse, instead of having the

satisfaction to meet them with approbation, it is distressing when

one is obliged to put on a most angry countenance and demeanour; but

from such culpable negligence as you have shown there is no avoiding

it. I hold it as a fixed maxim that, when a man or a family put on a

slovenly appearance in their houses, stairs, and lanterns, I always

find their reflectors, burners, windows, and light in general, ill

attended to; and, therefore, I must insist on cleanliness

throughout." "I find you very deficient in the duty of the high

tower. You thus place your appointment as Principal Keeper in

jeopardy; and I think it necessary, as an old servant of the Board,

to put you upon your guard once for all at this time. I call upon you

to recollect what was formerly and is now said to you. The state of

the backs of the reflectors at the high tower was disgraceful, as I

pointed out to you on the spot. They were as if spitten upon, and

greasy finger-marks upon the back straps. I demand an explanation of

this state of things." "The cause of the Commissioners dismissing you

is expressed in the minute; and it must be a matter of regret to you

that you have been so much engaged in smuggling, and also that the

Reports relative to the cleanliness of the Lighthouse, upon being

referred to, rather added to their unfavourable opinion." "I do not

go into the dwelling-house, but severely chide the lightkeepers for

the disagreement that seems to subsist among them." "The families of

the two lightkeepers here agree very ill. I have effected a

reconciliation for the present." "Things are in a very _humdrum_

state here. There is no painting, and in and out of doors no taste or

tidiness displayed. Robert's wife _greets_ and M'Gregor's scolds; and

Robert is so down-hearted that he says he is unfit for duty. I told

him that if he was to mind wives' quarrels, and to take them up, the

only way was for him and M'Gregor to go down to the point like Sir G.

Grant and Lord Somerset." "I cannot say that I have experienced a

more unpleasant meeting than that of the lighthouse folks this

morning, or ever saw a stronger example of unfeeling barbarity than

the conduct which the ----s exhibited. These two cold-hearted

persons, not contented with having driven the daughter of the poor

nervous woman from her father's house, _both_ kept _pouncing_ at her,

lest she should forget her great misfortune. Write me of their

conduct. Do not make any communication of the state of these families

at Kinnaird Head, as this would be like _Tale-bearing_."

There is the great word out. Tales and Tale-bearing, always with the

emphatic capitals, run continually in his correspondence. I will give

but two instances:--

"Write to David [one of the lightkeepers] and caution him to be more

prudent how he expresses himself. Let him attend his duty to the

Lighthouse and his family concerns, and give less heed to

Tale-bearers." "I have not your last letter at hand to quote its

date; but, if I recollect, it contains some kind of tales, which

nonsense I wish you would lay aside, and notice only the concerns of

your family and the important charge committed to you."

Apparently, however, my grandfather was not himself inaccessible to the

Tale-bearer, as the following indicates:--

"In-walking along with Mr. ----, I explain to him that I should be

under the necessity of looking more closely into the business here

from his conduct at Buddonness, which had given an instance of

weakness in the Moral principle which had staggered my opinion of

him. His answer was, 'That will be with regard to the lass?' I told

him I was to enter no farther with him upon the subject." "Mr. Miller

appears to be master and man. I am sorry about this foolish fellow.

Had I known his train, I should not, as I did, have rather forced him

into the service. Upon finding the windows in the state they were, I

turned upon Mr. Watt, and especially upon Mr. Stewart. The latter did

not appear for a length of time to have visited the lightroom. On

asking the cause--did Mr. Watt and him (_sic_) disagree; he said no;

but he had got very bad usage from the assistant, 'who was a very

obstreperous man.' I could not bring Mr. Watt to put in language his

objections to Miller; all I could get was that, he being your friend,

and saying he was unwell, he did not like to complain or to push the

man; that the man seemed to have no liking to anything like work;

that he was unruly; that, being an educated man, he despised them. I

was, however, determined to have out of these _unwilling_ witnesses

the language alluded to. I fixed upon Mr. Stewart as chief; he

hedged. My curiosity increased, and I urged. Then he said, 'What

would I think, just exactly, of Mr. Watt being called an Old B----?'

You may judge of my surprise. There was not another word uttered.

This was quite enough, as coming from a person I should have

calculated upon quite different behaviour from. It spoke a volume of

the man's mind and want of principle." "Object to the keeper keeping

a Bull-Terrier dog of ferocious appearance. It is dangerous, as we

land at all times of the night." "Have only to complain of the

storehouse floor being spotted with oil. Give orders for this being

instantly rectified, so that on my return to-morrow I may see things

in good order." "The furniture of both houses wants much rubbing.

Mrs. ----'s carpets are absurd beyond anything I have seen. I want

her to turn the fenders up with the bottom to the fireplace: the

carpets, when not likely to be in use, folded up and laid as a

hearthrug partly under the fender."

My grandfather was king in the service to his fingertips. All should go

in his way, from the principal lightkeeper's coat to the assistant's

fender, from the gravel in the garden-walks to the bad smell in the

kitchen, or the oil-spots on the store-room floor. It might be thought

there was nothing more calculated to awake men's resentment, and yet his

rule was not more thorough than it was beneficent. His thought for the

keepers was continual, and it did not end with their lives. He tried to

manage their successions; he thought no pains too great to arrange

between a widow and a son who had succeeded his father; he was often

harassed and perplexed by tales of hardship; and I find him writing,

almost in despair, of their improvident habits and the destitution that

awaited their families upon a death. "The house being completely

furnished, they come into possession without necessaries, and they go

out NAKED. The insurance seems to have failed, and what next is to be

tried?" While they lived he wrote behind their backs to arrange for the

education of their children, or to get them other situations if they

seemed unsuitable for the Northern Lights. When he was at a lighthouse

on a Sunday he held prayers and heard the children read. When a keeper

was sick, he lent him his horse and sent him mutton and brandy from the

ship. "The assistant's wife having been this morning confined, there was

sent ashore a bottle of sherry and a few rusks--a practice which I have

always observed in this service," he writes. They dwelt, many of them,

in uninhabited isles or desert forelands, totally cut off from shops.

Many of them were, besides, fallen into a rustic dishabitude of life,

so that even when they visited a city they could scarce be trusted with

their own affairs, as (for example) he who carried home to his children,

thinking they were oranges, a bag of lemons. And my grandfather seems to

have acted, at least in his early years, as a kind of gratuitous agent

for the service. Thus I find him writing to a keeper in 1806, when his

mind was already pre-occupied with arrangements for the Bell Rock: "I am

much afraid I stand very unfavourably with you as a man of promise, as I

was to send several things of which I believe I have more than once got

the memorandum. All I can say is that in this respect you are not

singular. This makes me no better; but really I have been driven about

beyond all example in my past experience, and have been essentially

obliged to neglect my own urgent affairs." No servant of the Northern

Lights came to Edinburgh but he was entertained at Baxter's Place to

breakfast. There, at his own table, my grandfather sat down delightedly

with his broad-spoken, homespun officers. His whole relation to the

service was, in fact, patriarchal; and I believe I may say that

throughout its ranks he was adored. I have spoken with many who knew

him; I was his grandson, and their words may have very well been words

of flattery; but there was one thing that could not be affected, and

that was the look and light that came into their faces at the name of

Robert Stevenson.

In the early part of the century the foreman builder was a young man of

the name of George Peebles, a native of Anstruther. My grandfather had

placed in him a very high degree of confidence, and he was already

designated to be foreman at the Bell Rock, when, on Christmas-day 1806,

on his way home from Orkney, he was lost in the schooner _Traveller_.

The tale of the loss of the _Traveller_ is almost a replica of that of

the _Elizabeth_ of Stromness; like the _Elizabeth_ she came as far as

Kinnaird Head, was then surprised by a storm, driven back to Orkney, and

bilged and sank on the island of Flotta. It seems it was about the dusk

of the day when the ship struck, and many of the crew and passengers

were drowned. About the same hour, my grandfather was in his office at

the writing-table; and the room beginning to darken, he laid down his

pen and fell asleep. In a dream he saw the door open and George Peebles

come in, "reeling to and fro, and staggering like a drunken man," with

water streaming from his head and body to the floor. There it gathered

into a wave which, sweeping forward, submerged my grandfather. Well, no

matter how deep; versions vary; and at last he awoke, and behold it was

a dream! But it may be conceived how profoundly the impression was

written even on the mind of a man averse from such ideas, when the news

came of the wreck on Flotta and the death of George.

George's vouchers and accounts had perished with himself; and it

appeared he was in debt to the Commissioners. But my grandfather wrote

to Orkney twice, collected evidence of his disbursements, and proved him

to be seventy pounds ahead. With this sum, he applied to George's

brothers, and had it apportioned between their mother and themselves. He

approached the Board and got an annuity of L5 bestowed on the widow

Peebles; and we find him writing her a long letter of explanation and

advice, and pressing on her the duty of making a will. That he should

thus act executor was no singular instance. But besides this we are able

to assist at some of the stages of a rather touching experiment: no less

than an attempt to secure Charles Peebles heir to George's favour. He is

despatched, under the character of "a fine young man"; recommended to

gentlemen for "advice, as he's a stranger in your place, and indeed to

this kind of charge, this being his first outset as Foreman"; and for a

long while after, the letter-book, in the midst of that thrilling first

year of the Bell Rock, is encumbered with pages of instruction and

encouragement. The nature of a bill, and the precautions that are to be

observed about discounting it, are expounded at length and with

clearness. "You are not, I hope, neglecting, Charles, to work the

harbour at spring-tides; and see that you pay the greatest attention to

get the well so as to supply the keeper with water, for he is a very

helpless fellow, and so unfond of hard work that I fear he could do ill

to keep himself in water by going to the other side for it."--"With

regard to spirits, Charles, I see very little occasion for it." These

abrupt apostrophes sound to me like the voice of an awakened conscience;

but they would seem to have reverberated in vain in the ears of Charles.

There was trouble in Pladda, his scene of operations; his men ran away

from him, there was at least a talk of calling in the Sheriff. "I fear,"

writes my grandfather, "you have been too indulgent, and I am sorry to

add that men do not answer to be too well treated, a circumstance which

I have experienced, and which you will learn as you go on in business."

I wonder, was not Charles Peebles himself a case in point? Either death,

at least, or disappointment and discharge, must have ended his service

in the Northern Lights; and in later correspondence I look in vain for

any mention of his name--Charles, I mean, not Peebles: for as late as

1839 my grandfather is patiently writing to another of the family: "I am

sorry you took the trouble of applying to me about your son, as it lies

quite out of my way to forward his views in the line of his profession

as a Draper."

III

A professional life of Robert Stevenson has been already given to the

world by his son David, and to that I would refer those interested in

such matters. But my own design, which is to represent the man, would be

very ill carried out if I suffered myself or my reader to forget that he

was, first of all and last of all, an engineer. His chief claim to the

style of a mechanical inventor is on account of the Jib or Balance Crane

of the Bell Rock, which are beautiful contrivances. But the great merit

of this engineer was not in the field of engines. He was above all

things a projector of works in the face of nature, and a modifier of

nature itself. A road to be made, a tower to be built, a harbour to be

constructed, a river to be trained and guided in its channel--these were

the problems with which his mind was continually occupied; and for these

and similar ends he travelled the world for more than half a century,

like an artist, note-book in hand.

He once stood and looked on at the emptying of a certain oil-tube; he

did so watch in hand, and accurately timed the operation; and in so

doing offered the perfect type of his profession. The fact acquired

might never be of use: it was acquired: another link in the world's huge

chain of processes was brought down to figures and placed at the service

of the engineer. "The very term mensuration sounds _engineer-like_," I

find him writing; and in truth what the engineer most properly deals

with is that which can be measured, weighed, and numbered. The time of

any operation in hours and minutes, its cost in pounds, shillings, and

pence, the strain upon a given point in foot-pounds--these are his

conquests, with which he must continually furnish his mind, and which,

after he has acquired them, he must continually apply and exercise. They

must be not only entries in note-books, to be hurriedly consulted; in

the actor's phrase, he must be _stale_ in them; in a word of my

grandfather's, they must be "fixed in the mind like the ten fingers and

ten toes."

These are the certainties of the engineer; so far he finds a solid

footing and clear views. But the province of formulas and constants is

restricted. Even the mechanical engineer comes at last to an end of his

figures, and must stand up, a practical man, face to face with the

discrepancies of nature and the hiatuses of theory. After the machine is

finished, and the steam turned on, the next is to drive it; and

experience and an exquisite sympathy must teach him where a weight

should be applied or a nut loosened. With the civil engineer, more

properly so called (if anything can be proper with this awkward

coinage), the obligation starts with the beginning. He is always the

practical man. The rains, the winds and the waves, the complexity and

the fitfulness of nature, are always before him. He has to deal with the

unpredictable, with those forces (in Smeaton's phrase) that "are subject

to no calculation"; and still he must predict, still calculate them, at

his peril. His work is not yet in being, and he must foresee its

influence: how it shall deflect the tide, exaggerate the waves, dam back

the rain-water, or attract the thunderbolt. He visits a piece of

sea-board: and from the inclination and soil of the beach, from the

weeds and shell-fish, from the configuration of the coast and the depth

of soundings outside, he must deduce what magnitude of waves is to be

looked for. He visits a river, its summer water babbling on shallows;

and he must not only read, in a thousand indications, the measure of

winter freshets, but be able to predict the violence of occasional great

floods. Nay, and more: he must not only consider that which is, but that

which may be. Thus I find my grandfather writing, in a report on the

North Esk Bridge: "A less waterway might have sufficed, but _the valleys

may come to be meliorated by drainage_." One field drained after another

through all that confluence of vales, and we come to a time when they

shall precipitate, by so much a more copious and transient flood, as the

gush of the flowing drain-pipe is superior to the leakage of a peat.

It is plain there is here but a restricted use for formulas. In this

sort of practice, the engineer has need of some transcendental sense.

Smeaton, the pioneer, bade him obey his "feelings"; my father, that

"power of estimating obscure forces which supplies a coefficient of its

own to every rule." The rules must be everywhere indeed; but they must

everywhere be modified by this transcendental coefficient, everywhere

bent to the impression of the trained eye and the _feelings_ of the

engineer. A sentiment of physical laws and of the scale of nature,

which shall have been strong in the beginning and progressively

fortified by observation, must be his guide in the last recourse. I had

the most opportunity to observe my father. He would pass hours on the

beach, brooding over the waves, counting them, noting their least

deflection, noting when they broke. On Tweedside, or by Lyne or Manor,

we have spent together whole afternoons; to me, at the time, extremely

wearisome; to him, as I am now sorry to think, bitterly mortifying. The

river was to me a pretty and various spectacle; I could not see--I could

not be made to see--it otherwise. To my father it was a chequer-board of

lively forces, which he traced from pool to shallow with minute

appreciation and enduring interest. "That bank was being undercut," he

might say; "why? Suppose you were to put a groin out here, would not the

_filum fluminis_ be cast abruptly off across the channel? and where

would it impinge upon the other shore? and what would be the result? Or

suppose you were to blast that boulder, what would happen? Follow

it--use the eyes God has given you--can you not see that a great deal of

land would be reclaimed upon this side?" It was to me like school in

holidays; but to him, until I had worn him out with my invincible

triviality, a delight. Thus he pored over the engineer's voluminous

handy-book of nature; thus must, too, have pored my grandfather and

uncles.

But it is of the essence of this knowledge, or this knack of mind, to be

largely incommunicable. "It cannot be imparted to another," says my

father. The verbal casting-net is thrown in vain over these evanescent,

inferential relations. Hence the insignificance of much engineering

literature. So far as the science can be reduced to formulas or

diagrams, the book is to the point; so far as the art depends on

intimate study of the ways of nature, the author's words will too often

be found vapid. This fact--engineering looks one way, and literature

another--was what my grandfather overlooked. All his life long, his pen

was in his hand, piling up a treasury of knowledge, preparing himself

against all possible contingencies. Scarce anything fell under his

notice but he perceived in it some relation to his work, and chronicled

it in the pages of his journal in his always lucid, but sometimes

inexact and wordy, style. The Travelling Diary (so he called it) was

kept in fascicles of ruled paper, which were at last bound up, rudely

indexed, and put by for future reference. Such volumes as have reached

me contain a surprising medley: the whole details of his employment in

the Northern Lights and his general practice; the whole biography of an

enthusiastic engineer. Much of it is useful and curious; much merely

otiose; and much can only be described as an attempt to impart that

which cannot be imparted in words. Of such are his repeated and heroic

descriptions of reefs; monuments of misdirected literary energy, which

leave upon the mind of the reader no effect but that of a multiplicity

of words and the suggested vignette of a lusty old gentleman scrambling

among tangle. It is to be remembered that he came to engineering while

yet it was in the egg and without a library, and that he saw the bounds

of that profession widen daily. He saw iron ships, steamers, and the

locomotive engine, introduced. He lived to travel from Glasgow to

Edinburgh in the inside of a forenoon, and to remember that he himself

had "often been twelve hours upon the journey, and his grandfather

(Lillie) two days"! The profession was still but in its second

generation, and had already broken down the barriers of time and space.

Who should set a limit to its future encroachments? And hence, with a

kind of sanguine pedantry, he pursued his design of "keeping up with the

day" and posting himself and his family on every mortal subject. Of this

unpractical idealism we shall meet with many instances; there was not a

trade, and scarce an accomplishment, but he thought it should form part

of the outfit of an engineer; and not content with keeping an

encyclopaedic diary himself, he would fain have set all his sons to work

continuing and extending it. They were more happily inspired. My

father's engineering pocket-book was not a bulky volume; with its store

of pregnant notes and vital formulas, it served him through life, and

was not yet filled when he came to die. As for Robert Stevenson and the

Travelling Diary, I should be ungrateful to complain, for it has

supplied me with many lively traits for this and subsequent chapters;

but I must still remember much of the period of my study there as a

sojourn in the Valley of the Shadow.

The duty of the engineer is twofold--to design the work, and to see the

work done. We have seen already something of the vociferous thoroughness

of the man, upon the cleaning of lamps and the polishing of reflectors.

In building, in road-making, in the construction of bridges, in every

detail and byway of his employments, he pursued the same ideal.

Perfection (with a capital P and violently underscored) was his design.

A crack for a penknife, the waste of "six-and-thirty shillings," "the

loss of a day or a tide," in each of these he saw and was revolted by

the finger of the sloven; and to spirits intense as his, and immersed in

vital undertakings, the slovenly is the dishonest, and wasted time is

instantly translated into lives endangered. On this consistent idealism

there is but one thing that now and then trenches with a touch of

incongruity, and that is his love of the picturesque. As when he laid

out a road on Hogarth's line of beauty; bade a foreman be careful, in

quarrying, not "to disfigure the island"; or regretted in a report that

"the great stone, called the _Devil in the Hole_, was blasted or broken

down to make road-metal, and for other purposes of the work."

FOOTNOTE:

[10] This is only a probable hypothesis; I have tried to identify my

father's anecdote in my grandfather's diary, and may very well have

been deceived.--R. L. S.

The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 16 · 第 2 / 10 章