19.—“AMERICAN FALLS.”

Railroad bridge of the “Oregon Short Line.”

]

But the picture in its grandeur, its wonderful mingling of colors and

distinctness of detail, is forgotten in contemplation of the singular

people who give it life and animation. No other race of men with the

means at their command would undertake so great a journey, none save

these could successfully perform it, with no previous preparation,

relying only on the fertility of their own invention to devise the means

to overcome each danger and difficulty as it arose. They have undertaken

to perform with slow-moving oxen a journey of two thousand miles. The

way lies over trackless wastes, wide and deep rivers, ragged and lofty

mountains, and is beset with hostile savages. Yet, whether it were a

deep river with no tree upon its banks, a rugged defile where even a

loose horse could not pass, a hill too steep for him to climb, or a

threatened attack of an enemy, they are always found ready and equal to

the occasion, and always conquerors. May we not call them men of

destiny? They are people changed in no essential particulars from their

ancestors, who have followed closely on the footsteps of the receding

savage, from the Atlantic seaboard to the great Valley of the

Mississippi.

But while we have been gazing at the picture in the valley, the hunters

have been examining the high plain in the other direction. Some dark

moving objects have been discovered in the distance, and all are closely

watching them to discover what they are, for in the atmosphere of the

plains a flock of crows marching miles away, or a band of buffaloes or

Indians at ten times the distance look alike, and many ludicrous

mistakes occur. But these are buffaloes, for two have struck their heads

together and are, alternately, pushing each other back. The hunters

mount and away in pursuit, and I, a poor cow-driver, must hurry back to

my daily toil, and take a scolding from my fellow herders for so long

playing truant.

The pilot, by measuring the ground and timing the speed of the wagons

and the walk of his horses, has determined the rate of each, so as to

enable him to select the nooning place, as nearly as the requisite grass

and water can be had at the end of five hours’ travel of the wagons.

Today, the ground being favorable, little time has been lost in

preparing the road, so that he and his pioneers are at the nooning place

an hour in advance of the wagons, which time is spent in preparing

convenient watering places for the animals, and digging little wells

near the bank of the Platte, as the teams are not unyoked, but simply

turned loose from the wagons, a corral is not formed at noon, but the

wagons are drawn up in columns, four abreast, the leading wagon of each

platoon on the left, the platoons being formed with that in view. This

brings friends together at noon as well as at night.

[Illustration:

20.—Near summit of Blue Mountains—Meacham Station of O. R. & N. R. R.

on the Trail, and site of “Lee Encampment.”

]

Today an extra session of the council is being held, to settle a dispute

that does not admit of delay, between a proprietor and a young man who

has undertaken to do a man’s service on the journey for bed and board.

Many such engagements exist, and much interest is taken in the manner in

which this high court, from which there is no appeal, will define the

rights of each party in such engagements. The council was a high court

in the most exalted sense. It was a senate composed of the ablest and

most respected fathers of the emigration. It exercised both legislative

and judicial powers, and its laws and decisions proved it equal and

worthy of the high trust reposed in it. Its sessions were usually held

on days when the caravan was not moving. It first took the state of the

little commonwealth into consideration; revised or repealed rules

defective or obsolete, and enacted such others as the exigencies seemed

to require. The common weal being cared for, it next resolved itself

into a court to hear and settle private disputes and grievances. The

offender and the aggrieved appeared before it; witnesses were examined,

and the parties were heard by themselves and sometimes by counsel. The

judges being thus made fully acquainted with the case, and being in no

way influenced or cramped by technicalities, decided all cases according

to their merits. There was but little use for lawyers before this court,

for no plea was entertained which was calculated to hinder or defeat the

ends of justice. Many of these judges have since won honors in higher

spheres. They have aided to establish on the broad basis of right and

universal liberty two pillars of our great Republic in the Occident.

Some of the young men who appeared before them as advocates have

themselves sat upon the highest judicial tribunals, commanded armies,

been governors of states and taken high position in the senate of the

nation.

It is now one o’clock; the bugle has sounded and the caravan has resumed

its westward journey. It is in the same order, but the evening is far

less animated than the morning march; a drowsiness has fallen apparently

on man and beast; teamsters drop asleep on their perches and even when

walking by their teams, and the words of command are now addressed to

the slowly creeping oxen in the soft tenor of women or the piping treble

of children, while the snores of the teamsters make a droning

accompaniment. But a little incident breaks the monotony of the march.

An emigrant’s wife, whose state of health has caused Doctor Whitman to

travel near the wagon for the day, is now taken with violent illness.

The Doctor has had the wagon driven out of the line, a tent pitched and

a fire kindled. Many conjectures are hazarded in regard to this

mysterious proceeding, and as to why this lone wagon is to be left

behind. And we too must leave it, hasten to the front and note the

proceedings, for the sun is now getting low in the west and at length

the painstaking pilot is standing ready to conduct the train in the

circle which he has previously measured and marked out, which is to form

the invariable fortification for the night. The leading wagons follow

him so nearly around the circle that but a wagon length separates them.

Each wagon follows in its track, the rear closing on the front, until

its tongue and ox chains will perfectly reach from one to the other, and

so accurate the measure and perfect the practice, that the hindmost

wagon of the train always precisely closes the gateway, as each wagon is

brought into position. It is dropped from its team (the teams being

inside the circle), the team unyoked and the yokes and chains are used

to connect the wagon strongly with that in its front. Within ten minutes

from the time the leading wagon halted, the barricade is formed, the

teams unyoked and driven out to pasture. Every one is busy preparing

fires of buffalo chips to cook the evening meal, pitching tents and

otherwise preparing for the night. There are anxious watchers for the

absent wagon, for there are many matrons who may be afflicted like its

inmate before the journey is over; and they fear the strange and

startling practice of this Oregon doctor will be dangerous. But as the

sun goes down the absent wagon rolls into camp, the bright, speaking

face and cheery look of the doctor, who rides in advance, declare

without words that all is well, and both mother and child are

comfortable. I would fain now and here pay a passing tribute to that

noble and devoted man, Doctor Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon

the reader, nor would I his were he of our party or even living, but his

stay with us was transient, though the good he did was permanent, and he

has long since died at his post.

[Illustration:

21.—Falls of the Willamette—the objective point of the pioneers.

]

From the time he joined us on the Platte until he left us at Fort Hall,

his great experience and indomitable energy were of priceless value to

the migrating column. His constant advice, which we knew was based upon

a knowledge of the road before us, was, “Travel, _travel_, TRAVEL;

nothing else will take you to the end of your journey; nothing is wise

that does not help you along; nothing is good for you that causes a

moment’s delay.” His great authority as a physician and complete success

in the case above referred to, saved us many prolonged and perhaps

ruinous delays from similar causes, and it is no disparagement to others

to say that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so much

indebted for the successful conclusion of their journey as to Dr. Marcus

Whitman.

All able to bear arms in the party have been formed into three

companies, and each of these into four watches; every third night it is

the duty of one of these companies to keep watch and ward over the camp,

and it is so arranged that each watch takes its turn of guard duty

through the different watches of the night. Those forming the first

watch tonight will be second on duty, then third and fourth, which

brings them through all the watches of the night. They begin at 8

o’clock P. M., and end at 4 o’clock A. M.

It is not yet 8 o’clock when the first watch is to be set; the evening

meal is just over, and the corral now free from the intrusion of cattle

or horses, groups of children are scattered over it. The larger are

taking a game of romps; “the wee toddling things” are being taught that

great achievement that distinguishes man from the lower animals. Before

a tent near the river a violin makes lively music, and some youths and

maidens have improvised a dance upon the green; in another quarter a

flute gives its mellow and melancholy notes to the still night air,

which, as they float away over the quiet river, seem a lament for the

past rather than a hope for the future. It has been a prosperous day;

more than twenty miles have been accomplished of the great journey. The

encampment is a good one; one of the causes that threatened much future

delay has just been removed by the skill and energy of that “good angel”

of the emigrants, Doctor Whitman, and it has lifted a load from the

hearts of the elders. Many of these are assembled around the good doctor

at the tent of the pilot (which is his home for the time being), and are

giving grave attention to his wise and energetic counsel. The care-worn

pilot sits aloof, quietly smoking his pipe, for he knows the brave

doctor is “strengthening his hands.”

[Illustration:

22.—The Union Pacific Building, Omaha,—site of one of the “jumping

off” points for Oregon.

]

But time passes; the watch is set for the night; the council of old men

has been broken up, and each has returned to his own quarter; the flute

has whispered its last lament to the deepening night; the violin is

silent, and the dancers have dispersed; enamored youth have whispered a

tender “good night” in the ear of blushing maidens, or stolen a kiss

from the lips of some future bride—for Cupid here, as elsewhere, has

been busy bringing together congenial hearts, and among these simple

people he alone is consulted in forming the marriage tie. Even the

doctor and the pilot have finished their confidential interview and have

separated for the night. All is hushed and repose from the fatigues of

the day, save the vigilant guard and the wakeful leader, who still has

cares upon his mind that forbid sleep. He hears the 10 o’clock relief

taking post and the “all well” report of the returned guard; the night

deepens, yet he seeks not the needed repose. At length a sentinel

hurries to him with the welcome report that a party is approaching—as

yet too far away for its character to be determined, and he instantly

hurries out in the direction in which it was seen. This he does both

from inclination and duty, for in times past the camp had been

unnecessarily alarmed by timid or inexperienced sentinels, causing much

confusion and fright amongst women and children, and it had been a rule

that all extraordinary incidents of the night should be reported

directly to the pilot, who alone had the authority to call out the

military strength of the column, or of so much of it as was in his

judgment necessary to prevent a stampede or repel an enemy. Tonight he

is at no loss to determine that the approaching party are our missing

hunters, and that they have met with success, and he only waits until by

some further signal he can know that no ill has happened to them. This

is not long wanting. He does not even await their arrival, but the last

care of the day being removed, and the last duty performed, he too seeks

the rest that will enable him to go through the same routine tomorrow.

But here I leave him, for my task is also done, and unlike his, it is to

be repeated no more.

NOTE—A CORRECTION—Col. George B. Currey was the author of “The Tribute

to the Ox Whip,” not Col. George L. Curry, as printed in this number.

The quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society, Vol. 1, No. 4, December, 1900 · 第 16 / 33 题